1                                           — — =.=^ — ll 

1     UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA     j 
AT    LOS  ANGELES              j 

ittlittim  Wmm 


1  ^ 


1  1 


EDMUND  SYLVESTER 
The  Founder  of  Olj'mpia 


EARLY  HISTORY 


OF 


Thurston  County,  Washington 

TOGETHER  WITH 

BIOGRAPHIES  AND  REMINISCENCES 

OF  THOSE  IDENTIFIED  WITH 

PIONEER  DAYS 


COMPILED  AND  EDITED 

BY 

MRS.  GEORGE  E.  BLANKENSHIP 


OLYMPIA,  WASHINGTON 
1914 


...Qavnxtavh 


"1  

Upon   presenting   this   modest    volume   to   the    public    the 
>^-      author  desires  to  present  a  few  facts  regarding  the  aims  and 
^      purposes  of  its  publication, 
j^  As  I  am  not  myself  a  pioneer  or,  in  the  proper  conception 

of  the  term,  an  early  settler,  it  may  be  necessary  to  explain 
why  I  should  intrude  in  a  field  more  properly  the  work  of 
others.     As  one  who  crossed  the  plains  three  times  in  an  ox 
wagon,   and  whose  parents  were  inured  to  the  hardships  of 
frontier  life,  I  myself  took  a  deep  interest  in  this  subject.    Upon 
jjo     coming  to   Puget   Sound  I  found  the  ranks  of  the   pioneers 
S     decreasing  rapidly.     With  the  modesty  characteristic  of  this 
„     race  of  hardy  empire  builders,  they  had  not  appreciated  the 
1^      value  of  their  work  and  its  import  to  their  posterity.    They  did 
on      not  appreciate  the  fact  that  those  who  were  to  reap  where 
—'      they  had  sown  would  be   eager  to  learn  of  the  vicissitudes 
1^      and  hardships  endured  bv  their  antecedents  in  this  new  em- 
c=>      pire  for  which  they  had  laid  the  foundation — so  vast  that  Atlas 
must  needs'  square  his  shoulders  to  bear  the  burdens  of  an- 
other  world — and   without   leaving   proper   records    of    their 
heroie    and  self-denying    lives,    they   have    one    by    one    gone 
to  a  well-deserved  rest,  leaving  but  few  today  to  detail  the  re- 
miniscences here  related.     The  compiler,  then,  encouraged  in 
the  work,  by  many  who  desire  to  see  a  task  accomplished,  which 
they  themselves  had  no  inclination  to  undertake,   offers  this 
volume,  with  a  sincere  hope  that  it  may  to  some  extent  endure 
as  a  record  of  the  lives  of  many  who  made  history  in  Thurston 
County  in  the  early  days. 

This  publication  makes  no  claim  to  literary  merit,  ])ut 
aims  to  relate  the  simple  annals  of  the  pioneers'  lives  and 
vicissitudes  in  the  language  of  the  actors  of  that  time. 

Tlie  work  has  been  at  once  interesting  and  edncating. 
Thrown   in  coiitact  with  th(ise  survivors  of  the  late    '40's  and 


O 


601/10 


early   '50 's  one  is  astonished  at  the  physical  vigor  and  men- 
tal brilliancy  encountered. 

In  one  instance,  in  quest  of  facts  regarding  the  early  ex- 
periences of  one  old  family,  I  was  compelled  to  interview  the 
maternal  ancester,  who  complied  cheerfully  but  said  that  in- 
asmuch as  it  was  early  Spring  and  she  had  her  gardening  to  do 
she  must  ask  her  interviewer  to  call  later  in  the  evening  when 
the  day's  tasks  were  done. 

Another  old  lady,  who  furnished  a  fund  of  information, 
was  found  vigorously  sewing  upon  her  own  dresses  and  much 
interested  in  her  wardrobe,  which,  however,  contained  no  nar- 
row and  slit  skirts. 

These  instances  are  presented  not  as  exceptional  in  char- 
acter, but  as  typical  of  the  people  who  left  homes  in  the  East 
to  endure  a  perilous  six  months'  trip  over  the  trackless  plains 
for  a  destination  of  which  they  knew  nothing  except  that  it 
promised  a  hard  and  perilous  existence,  with  problematical 
results.  They  came,  leaving  their  trail  marked  with  mute  evi- 
dences of  severed  family  ties ;  they  saw,  and  before  their  vision 
unrolled  a  panorama  of  vast  possibilities ;  they  conquered,  first 
the  savage  Indian  and  then  the  none  less  wild  forests  and 
laid  wide  and  deep  the  foundation  for  a  State  that  must  in 
time  take  rank  with  the  first  in  this  great  Union. 

Then  it  was,  that  the  wild  nature  of  the  country  having 
been  subdued,  transcontinental  railroads  built  and  the  country 
became  a  fit  habitation  for  man,  the  work  of  these  hard}- 
pioneers  was  done,  their  proud,  erect  forms  were  bent  with 
age  and  hardship  endured.  The  flashing  eyes  were  dimmed 
the  heads  ripened  for  the  grave,  and  they  must  reap  slight  re- 
ward for  their  self-denial  and  hardships.  Even  the  United 
States  Government  was  tardy  in  acknowledging  their  worth 
and  bestowing  a  well-deserved  pension  upon  these  empire 
builders  to  aid  them  in  their  declining  years.  Indeed,  the 
great  majority  had  sought  their  reward  in  another  world,  when 
the  Federal  Government  passed  a  law  granting  Indian  war 
veterans  pensions.  Few  there  were  then  to  receive  it  and  they 
not  long  to  be  beneficiaries. 

Let  posterity,  then,  do  its  duty  in  granting  th^  early  settle^ 
his  just  due  in  respect  and  homage. 


WAIL  OF  AN  OLD  SETTLER. 


Some  say  this  country's  improving 
And  boast  of  its  commerce  and  trade, 
But  measured  by  social  enjoyment, 
I  find  it  has  really  decayed. 

In  the  pioneer  days  on  the  Sound 
When  the  people  had  little  to  wear. 
And   subsisted   on   clams  the   year    'round, 
We'd  hearty  good  fellowship  here. 

The  thoughtful,  industrious  old  settler 
Was  so  fond  of  obliging  a  friend. 
That  if  anyone  wanted  his  tools 
He'd  always  quit  working  to  lend. 

At  our  gatherings  for  pastoral  pleasure — ■ 
Dance,  picnic  or  social  knockdown. 
One  man  was  as  good  as  another, 
No  kind  of  distinction  was  shown. 

And  even  the  climate  is  changing. 
For  only  some  ten  years  ago. 
Strawberries  got  ripe  in  December 
Whilst  now  it  brings  four  feet  of  snow. 

— Francis  Henry. 


Qtstortral  @k0trl| 


It  is  not  necessary  to  the  purposes  of  this  brief  historica: 
sketch  to  detail  the  events  connected  with  the  early  voyages 
of  discovery  to  the  Northwest,  although  they  constituted  the 
basis  upon  which  Spain,  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States 
asserted  claims  to  the  Northwest  Coast. 

Russia  claimed  north  of  the  51st  degree,  with  all  adjacent 
islands ;  Spain  claimed  to  the  55th  degree  by  right  of  discovery ; 
Great  Britain  asserted  no  exclusive  right  to  particular  portions 
of  the  coast,  but  maintained  that  the  voyages  of  Drake,  Cook. 
Meares  and  Vancouver  to  the  coast ;  the  overland  voyages  of 
^Mackenzie  and  Thomson,  followed  by  the  formation  of  estab- 
lishments within  the  territory  "conferred  a  right  of  joint  oc- 
cupancy with  other  states,  leaving  the  right  of  exclusive  do 
minion  in  abeyance." 

At  the  outset  of  the  controversy  the  United  States'  claim 
was  two-fold :  First,  in  its  own  right,  based  upon  the  dis- 
covery of  the  Columbia  river  by  Captain  Gray;  the  explora- 
tion of  that  river  by  Lewis  and  Clark,  followed  by  settlements 
by  its  citizens  upon  its  banks.  Upon  the  principal  that  the 
discovery  of  a  river  followed  by  acts  of  occupancy,  secured  a 
right  to  the  territory  such  river  drained,  the  United  States 
asserted  claim  to  the  territory  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains 
lying  between  42  and  51  degrees  north,  subject,  however,  to 
the  rights  of  Spain  of  prior  discoveries  of  islands  and  lands 
I'pon  the  coast.     Second,  as  successor  to  France. 

By  the  Louisiana  purchase  of  1803,  the  United  States  ac- 
quired the  right  of  continuity  of  the  territory  west  of  the 
jMississippi  river  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  of  the  breadth  of  that 
province,  its  north  line  being  the  boundary  between  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  territory  and  the  French  provinces  in  Canada.  Ne- 
gotiations between  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain  were 
commenced  early  in  the  century;  the  war  of  1812  intervened; 


THURSTON    COUNTY  7 

Astoria,  captured  during  that  war,  had  been  restored.  In  1818. 
the  condition  was  slightly  changed  by  the  convention  which 
permitted  a  joint  occupancy  of  the  territory  by  citizens  and 
subjects  of  both  nations,  really  a  non-occupancy  by  the  nations 
ttiemselves,  for  they  but  agreed  that  they  would  not  exclude 
the  citizens  of  the  other,  nor  gain  any  right  or  claim  by  virtue 
of  the  occupancy  by  their  own  citizens.  On  the  22nd  of  Feb- 
ruary, 1819,  the  United  States,  by  the  Florida  treaty,  acquired 
from  Spain  all  that  nation's  rights  to  land  upon  the  Pacific 
Coast  north  of  42nd  degree  north  latitude.  In  1824  and  1825 
the  United  States  and  Great  Britain  haa  respectively  con- 
cluded treaties  with  Russia  by  which  54  degrees  40  minutes 
north  latitude  was  established  as  the  south  boundary  of  Rus- 
sian possessions  on  the  Northwest  Coast. 

In  1827  the  joint  occupancy  treaty  was  renewed,  with 
the  modification  that  either  nation  could  abrogate  it  by  giving 
twelve  months'  notice.  The  Oregon  question  continued  to  be 
agitated  until  June  15.  1846,  the  United  States  Senate  advised 
President  Polk  to  accept  the  treaty  of  limits  then  offered.  By 
that  treaty  49  degrees  north  was  fixed  as  the  northern  bound- 
ary. But  the  treaty  of  1846  proved  but  a  temporization.  not  m 
settlement.  It  yielded  to  Great  Britain  all  of  Vancouver  Island, 
but  was  vague  as  to  water  boundaries.  The  indistinct  recog- 
nition of  the  possessory  rights  of  the  Hudson  Bay  and  Puget 
Sound  Agricultural  Companies,  almost  wholly  in  Washington, 
left  much  for  controversy.  In  1859,  war  was  imminent,  grow- 
ing out  of  dispte  as  to  sovereignty  as  to  San  Juan  Island. 
This  difficulty  was  temporized  by  a  military  joint  occupancy 
A  special  treaty  enabled  the  United  States  to  secure  by  pur- 
chase the  extinguishment  of  the  possessory  rights  of  the  Hud- 
son Bay  Company  and  Puget  Sound  Agricidtural  Compan.w 
Not  until  1872,  by  the  award  of  the  German  Emperor,  was  the 
Avater  boundary  adjusted  and  the  Oregon  controversy  finall\' 
settled. 

What  was  known  as  the  provisional  government  of  Oregon 
was  organized  in  July,  1845,  and  all  that  country  north  of 
the  Columbia  River  formed  a  single  County  known  as  Van- 
couver District.  Sir  James  Douglas,  M.  T.  Simmons  and  John 
Forrest  were  the  first  County  Commissioners.  Douglas  was 
connected  witli  tlie  Hudson  Bay  Company  <tnd'  Simmons  came 


8  HISTORICAL   SKETCH 

into  the  country  in  the  year  1844,  with  a  company  from 
Missouri. 

Lewis  County  was  organized  in  1846,  and  embraced  all 
the  territory  lying  north  of  the  Columbia  river  and  west  of 
the  Cowlitz  River.  Dr.  W.  T.  Tolmie,  of  Xisqually,  wan  elected 
the  first  representative. 

In  April,  1845,  at  Washougal,  i\Irs.  ^l.  T.  Simmons  gave 
Inrth  to  the  first  white  child  born  north  and  west  of  the  Co- 
lumbia River.  In  March,  1846,  ]\Irs.  James  McAllister  gave 
birth  to  a  son,  the  first  born  in  the  Puget  Sound  region.  In 
the  Summer  of  1846,  Mrs.  Sidney  S.  Ford  gave  birth  to  a 
daughter,  the  first  American  girl  born  north  and  west  of  the 
Columbia  River.     The  child  after  became  Mrs.  John  Shelton 

The  first  marriage  recorded  in  the  Colony  was  at  ''New 
Market.  Puget  Sound,  at  the  house  of  ^Ir.  Davis,  on  the  6th 
day  of  July,  by  Judge  Simmons.  Mr.  Daniel  F.  Kinsey  to  ^liss 
Ruth  Brock  of  the  former  place." 

In  August  of  1847,  Jesse  Ferguson,  Col.  Simmons,  Frank 
Shaw,  E.  Sylvester,  A.  B.  Rabbeson,  Gabriel  Jones.  A.  D.  Carne- 
fix  and  John  Kindred  formed  a  company  for  the  purpose  of 
building  a  sawmill  at  New  Market,  named  the  Puget  Sound 
Milling  Company.  The  site  was  the  northwest  part  of  the 
Lower  Falls.  The  mill  was  completed  during  the  winter  of 
that  year. 

On  August  24,  1847,  a  trail  was  made  between  Smithfield 
(Olympia)  and  New  Market  (Tumwater). 

In  the  Fall  of  1847,  there  arrived  in  this  section  Thomas 
]\I.  Chambers  and  his  sons.  David,  Andrew,  Thomas  J.  and 
McLain,  also  a  Mr.  Brail   and  Geo.  Shaser. 

The  last  election  held  in  Lewis  County  under  the  Pro- 
visional Government  w^as  in  1848,  when  Levi  Lathrop  Smith 
was  elected  Repreesntative  to  the  Oregon  Provisional  Legisla- 
ture and  A.  B.  Rabbeson  was  elected  Sheriff.  Mr.  Smith  did 
not  live  to  enter  upon  the  duties  of  his  office.  While  in  a 
canoe  on  his  way  to  New  Market  in  August  he  was  seized 
with  an  epileptic  fit  and  dro-wned.  This  was  the  first  recorded 
death  of  an  American  in  this  section. 

Mr.  Smith  was  a  partner  of  Edmund  Sylvester  in  joint 
claims  owned  by  them.  Under  the  partnership  clause  of  the 
land  laws  of  Oregon's  Provisional  Government  the  occupancy 


THURSTON    COUNTY  9 

of  claims  by  each  party  for  the  benefit  of  the  firm  was  per- 
missa])le.  Smith  resided  on  the  Smithfield  claim  and  Sylvester 
occupied  a  prairie  farm  near  the  Sound.  Thus,  upon  the  death 
of  Smith,  Sylvester,  as  the  survivor  of  the  firm,  became  owner 
of  the  present  site  of  the  City  of  Olympia.  He  moved  thereon 
and  built  the  first  hotel.  It  was  16x2 J:,  built  of  logs  and  con- 
tained two  rooms. 

Rev.  Pascal  Rieard  and  a  small  party  of  Oblat  mission- 
aries in  June,  1848,  established  the  St.  Joseph  ^lission.  on 
the  site  of  the  present  city  park,  on  the  east  of  Budd's  Inlet. 
The  Mission  continued  for  several  years.  Hence  the  name  by 
which  the  point  has  since  been  known,  and  which  name  is 
now  g-iven  to  Olympia 's  splendid  playground — Priest  Point 
Park.  Another  settlement  was  made  about  this  time  almost 
directly  across  the  inlet  from  Priest  Point  by  Samuel  Han- 
cock. This  claim  later  became  the  property  of  Conrad 
Schneider. 

The  Territorial  Government  of  Oregon  was  established  on 
August  14,  1848,  and  included  all  the  Pacific  possessions  of  the 
United  States  north  to  the  32nd  parallel,  this  line  being  fixed 
by  treaty  between  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain. 

The  development  of  this  section  of  the  Oregon  territory 
was  greatly  retarded  soon  after  its  organization  by  the  gold 
discoveries  made  in  California,  which  caused  a  stampede  from 
the  Northwest,  and  considerably  reduced  the  male  popula- 
tion, who  preferred  to  try  their  fortunes  in  the  gold  fields 
rather  than  continue  the  pursuit  of  fortune  along  slower  bu!, 
more  certain  lines.  Farms  were  abandoned ;  in  many  eases 
crops  were  not  planted,  or,  if  planted,  were  left  neglected  and 
unharvested. 

After  the  arrival  of  Governor  Lane  to  assume  the  duties 
of  his  office  as  first  Governor  of  Oregon  Territory,  Judicial 
districts  were  proclaimed  and  Judges  assigned  in  two,  luit 
the  third  Judicial  district  which  constituted  Lewis  Countx', 
was  left  without  an  official  clothed  with  authority  to  afford 
protection  in  all  the  territory  north  of  the  Columbia  River. 

The  first  American  vessel  owned  by  Wasliington  Tei'i-i- 
tory  residents  hailed  from  Olympia,  on  Puget  Sound,  and  was 
called  the  Orbit.     She  arrived  at  Olympia  on  New  Years  day. 


10  HISTORICAL   SKETCH 

ISoO,  and  loaded  with  piles  for  San  Francisco.  Her  owners 
were  ]\Iessrs.  Sylvester,  Jackson,  Moore,  Shaw  and  Ebey. 

The  first  Legislature  under  Oregon  Territorial  Government 
convened  at  Oregon  City,  July,  1849.  Lewis  County  was  then 
included  in  a  Representative  and  Council  district  with  Clat- 
sop County  (now  Oregon),  and  was  represented  by  Samuel 
T.  McKean,  of  Clatsop,  as  Councilman,  and  M.  T.  Simmons, 
as  Representative.     The  session  continued  one  hundred  days. 

Thomas  W.  Glascow  settled  on  a  claim  at  what  is  known 
as  Ebey's  Landing,  Whidby  Lsland,  in  1848,  and  after  some 
l)reliminary  work  returned  to  New  Market  (Tumwater)  and 
induced  A.  D.  Carnefix  and  A.  B.  Rabbeson  to  return  to  his 
liew  home  with  him.  At  the  head  of  Hood's  Canal,  which  thev 
desired  to  explore,  while  on  their  way,  they  found  Indians, 
many  of  whom  had  never  beheld  a  white  man.  Though  Carne- 
fix returned  home  at  the  head  of  the  Sound,  Rabbeson  and 
Glascow  continued  their  voyage  and  in  July  reached  the  new 
liome  of  the  latter. 

About  this  time  there  was  held  in  this  vicinity  a  council 
of  Puget  Sound  Indians,  called  together  by  the  Chief  of  the 
Snoqualmies.  Patkanim.  The  object  of  this  meeting  was  to 
induce  all  the  Sound  Indians  to  combine  and  annihilate  the 
white  settlers.  Patkanim  was  the  leader  in  the  effort  to 
bring  about  hostilities.  He  urged  that  it  was  only  a  matter 
of  a  short  time  when  the  whites  would  outnumber  the  In- 
dians, and  the  latter  would  then  be  transported  to  a  land 
where  the  sun  never  shone,  and  would  there  be  left  to  die. 
One  of  the  great  arguments  used  by  this  crafty  statesman 
and  warrior,  however,  was  that  by  conquering  the  whites  the 
Indians  would  acquire  a  large  amount  of  property. 

This  war-like  spirit  was  strongly  opposed  by  the  Indians 
from  the  Upper  Sound,  who  felt  quite  friendly  to  the  whites. 
This  pacific  attitude  of  the  Indians  about  the  head  of  the 
Sound  was  due  to  the  fact  that  the  stronger  tribes  on  the 
lower  Sound  had  made  war  on  the  weaker  ones  and  made 
slaves  of  those  of  the  Indians  that  they  took  captives.  The 
presence  of  the  white  in  and  about  Smithfield  and  New  Market 
had  proved  a  protection  to  their  Indian  neighbors.  More 
than  this  the  whites  had  thus  far  proven  themselves  scrupu- 
lously honest  in  their  dealings  with  the  Indians  and  thus  had 


THURSTON  COUNTY  11 

the  "King  George"  or  "Boston  ]\Ien"  won  their  confidence. 

This  opposition  to  hostilities  came  near  causing  a  fight 
on  the  council  grounds.  Rabbeson  and  Glascow,  seeing  that 
it  would  be  unsafe  to  remain  in  the  neighborhood  left,  the 
latter  abandoning  his  claim. 

In  the  Spring  of  1849,  a  party  of  Snoqualmie  Indians 
made  an  attack  on  the  Hudson  Bay  Company's  fort  at  Xis- 
qually,  in  which  Leander  C.  Wallace  was  killed  and  two  men, 
Lewis  and  Walker,  were  w^ounded. 

From  accounts  derived  from  various  sources  the  following 
appear  to  be  the  facts :  A  force  of  Snoqualmies  visited  the 
fort,  ostensibly  to  settle  a  dispute  with  the  Xisqually  tribe. 
There  appears  to  have  been  a  force  varying  according  to  sev- 
eral accounts,  from  100  to  150.  Patkanim  was  within  the  fort 
conferring  with  Dr.  Tolmie,  the  Agent,  while  the  gates  were 
closed  against  the  other  Indians.  Wallace,  Lewis  and  Walker, 
visitors  at  the  fort,  together  with  one,  Chas.  Wren,  outside 
the  fort,  noticed  hostile  demonstrations  on  the  part  of  th.' 
Indians,  and  apprehending  danger,  retreated  towards  the 
gates.  Wren  reached  it  and  tried  to  enter,  but  was  pre- 
vented from  within.  The  discharge  of  a  gun  at  this  timi^ 
precipitated  an  attack.  It  was  fired  into  the  air  by  a  guard 
on  the  inside,  preparatory  to  reloading,  and  was  used  as  a 
pretext  for  the  attack.  A  volley  was  then  fired  from  the  fort 
and  the  Indians  retreated. 

Wallace  was  the  first  white  man  killed  by  Indians  on 
Puget  Sound.  The  Indians  were  induced  for  a  consideration 
of  eighty  blankets,  to  deliver  up  the  murderers  for  trial.  This 
method  of  dealing  was  strongly  resented  by  Governor  Lane, 
as  it  could  be  construed  as  putting  a  premium  rather  than 
a  punishment  on  such  outrages. 

However,  before  he  could  prevent  it  the  deal,  which  had 
])een  authorized  by  an  Indian  Agent  for  this  district,  had  been 
consummated  and  six  Snoqualmie  Indians  given  up  by  the 
crafty  Patkanim. 

At  a  special  term  of  court  held  in  Ft.  Steilacoom  the  six 
prisoners  were  indicted,  tried,  and  two  convicted,  who  were 
leaders  in  the  attack.  The  remaining  four  were  acquitted. 
A  vast  conclave  of  Indians  were  present  at  the  execution, 
which  occurred  the  day  following  conviction. 


12  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

This  was  the  first  United  States  court  held  North  of  the 
Columbia  River.  It  was  convened  on  the  1st  day  of  October. 
the  trial  continued  through  the  second  day  and  upon  the  third 
day  the  two  Indians  were  suspended,  as  mute  object  lessons 
to  the  Indians  that  the  law  must  be  respected.  Some  of  the 
jurors  who  participated  in  this  trial  traveled  two  hundred 
miles  from  their  homes  to  reach  the  court.  The  summary 
justice  then  dealt  out  could  be  well  used  as  object  lessons 
for  more  modern  courts. 

Chief  Justice  Bryant  presided  at  this  trial.  The  prosecu- 
tion was  conducted  by  Judge  Alonzo  A.  Skinner  and  the  Court 
assigned  David  Stone,  then  Prosecuting  Attorney  for  the 
Third  Judicial  District  to  defend  the  Indians. 

Edmund  Sylvester,  who  by  the  death  of  his  partner,  had 
become  sole  owner  of  the  claim  they  had  located  at  the  head 
of  Budd's  Inlet,  in  1850,  laid  off  the  claim  as  a  town  site  and 
named  it  Olympia.  The  name  suggests  the  idea  that  even  in 
this  remote  region  with  rude  environments,  there  were  those 
conversant  with  the  classics.  The  name  was  bestowed  by 
Charles  H.  Smith,  who  together  with  IMr.  Simmons,  had  that 
year  established  a  store  in  the  new  settlement,  at  the  corner 
of  Main  and  Second  Streets.  The  name  was  doubtless  sug- 
gested by  the  beautiful  views  spread  out  before  them  at  the 
head  of  the  Sound,  where  to  the  North  the  Olympic  Range  was 
visible  and  to  the  East  old  Rainier  reared  his  majestic  head. 

At  this  period,  of  course,  the  methods  of  living  by  th-'- 
inhabitants  were  most  primitive.  Little  in  the  way  of  house- 
hold necessities  had  reached  the  new  settlement  and  luxurier> 
were  not  missed  by  these  hardy  pioneers. 

Only  the  necessaries  of  life  and  those  fancy  articles  which 
appealed  to  the  Indians  were  dealt  in  at  the  time.  However, 
in  1852,  George  A.  Barnes  opened  a  general  merchandise  stor:^ 
at  the  West  end  of  First  Street,  from  which  time  business  as- 
sumed more  pretentious  proportions.  Later  business  houses 
were  opened  by  A.  J.  ]\Ioses,  J.  G.  Parker,  Sam  Coulter,  L. 
■  Bettman,  Goldman  &  Rosenblatt,  and  Louisson  &  Company. 
As  Olympia  was  the  only  town  on  the  Sound  a  customs  house 
was  established  here  in  1851. 

Upon  the  reciept  of  news  of  the  discovery  of  gold  on 
Queen  Charlotte's  Island,  this  year,  a  schooner  was  chartered 


THURSTON   COUNTY'  13 

by  Samuel  Williams,  J.  Colvig,  "William  Billings,  S.  D.  Howe. 
Charles  Weed,  S.  8.  Ford  and  three  Sargent  Brothers  to  go 
to  the  new  fields.  The  schooner  was  wrecked  on  the  East 
side  of  the  island,  i)lundered  by  the  Indians  and  the  gold- 
seekers  taken  prisoners.  They  were  rescued  by  a  revenue 
cutter  and  troops  frojn  Steilacoom  and  returned  home  after 
two  months'  absence. 

The  year  1852  found  the  settlers  in  fair  condition  with 
brighter  prospects,  for  coal  had  been  discovered  and  saw- 
mills had  been  established  on  the  Sound,  and  these  indu.stries 
had  caused  a  few  shipments  to  be  made  to  San  Francisco,  the 
l^eginning  of  a  trade  that  was  destined  at  a  later  date  to  grow 
to  such  dimensions. 

The  Soinid  country,  which  then  constituted  the  Northern 
part  of  the  Territory  of  Oregon,  w^as  isolated.  I\Iany  of  the 
towns  and  settlements  were  five  hundred  miles  from  the 
seat  of  government,  and  under  such  conditions  the  settlers 
here  received  little  attention  or  consideration  from  the  Ter- 
ritorial Legislature,  though  at  this  period  it  was  considered 
that  Lewis  County,  that  section  north  of  Cowlitz  County,  con- 
tained a  little  over  three  hundred  inhabitants,  of  which  180 
were  citizens. 

Pacific  County  was  created  in  1851  and  in  1852  a  imw 
County  was  created  to  include  the  territory  west  of  the  Cas- 
cade ^Mountains  and  north  of  the  Cowlitz  divide.  The  new 
County  was  named  Thurston,  after  Samuel  R.  Thurston,  a 
highly  cultured  gentleman  who  liad  b(nMi  elected  to  Congress 
by  the  factions  opposed  to  the  Hudson  Bay  Company.  Thurs 
Ion  died  at  sea  April  I),  1851,  while  returning  from  the  Na- 
tional Capitol  His  remains  were  buried  at  Acapulco,  tliough 
1hey  were  afterward  brought  to  Salem,  Oregon,  and  buried, 
nuirked  with  a  stone  l)earing  this  inscription:  "Here  rests 
Oregon's  delegate,  a  man  of  genius  and  learning,  a  lawyer  and 
statesman,  his  Christian  virtues  equalled  by  his  wide  philaii- 
throphy.     His  public  acts  are  his  best  euloguim." 

In  accordance  with  the  act  creating  the  new  County  of 
Thurston  an  election  was  held  in  June,  1852,  at  which  the  fol- 
lowing officers  were  elected:  A.  J.  Simmons,  Sheriff;  A.  'SI. 
Foe,  County  Clerk;   D.   R.   15igclow,   Treasurer;    H.   S.    {'.alley, 


U  HrSTORICAL   SKETCH 

Assessor;  Eilnmiul  Sylvester,  Coroner,-  A.  A.  Denny,  S.  S.  Ford 
jiiul   David  Shelton,  Counter  Commissioners. 

The  records  of  the  first  session  of  the  Connty  Coraimis- 
sioners,  shows  the  following-  business  transacted: 

The  tax  levy  was  fixed  at  4  mills  for  County  purposes, 
1Y2  mills  for  schools,  IV2  mills  Territorial,  and  sf'l  poll  tax. 

T.  F.  IMcElroy  and  Geo.  Barnes  were  appointed  Justices: 
of  the  Peace. 

Eoad  districts  were  established  and  Wm.  Packwood  was: 
authorized  to  establish  a  ferry  on  the  Xisqually  River. 

Precincts  were  established  as  follows:  Skagit  precinct, 
Whidby  Island  and  all  islands  north.  Port  Townsend  pre- 
cinct, territory  north  of  Hood's  Canal  on  the  west  side  of 
the  Sound.  Duwamish  precinct,  east  side  of  Sound  north  of 
Puyallup  River  and  all  south  of  Hood's  Canal  to  the  parallel 
of  the  north  parallel  of  the  Puyallup  river  on  west  side  of 
Sound.  Steilacoom  precinct,  territory  north  of  Nisqually 
River  to  the  Puyallup  on  the  east  side  of  the  Sound  and  thence 
due  west  to  mouth  of  Xiscpially  River  to  the  parallel  of  the 
mouth  of  the  Puyallup.  Olympia  precinct,  territory  south  of 
Steilacoom  precinct. 

For  school   purposes:     Olympia   precinct   contained    dis 
tricts  1  and  2 ;  Duwamish  was  designed  as  one  district,  Skagit 
precinct,  one  district;  Port  Townsend  precinct  as  one  district. 

The  first  term  of  the  district  Court  was  convened  at  Olym- 
pia this  year  and  Elwood  Evans.  D.  R.  Bigelow.  Quincy  A. 
Brooks  and  S.  H.  ]\Ioses  were  admitted  to  practice. 

Thornton  P.  McElroy  and  J.  W.  Wiley  printed  the  first 
newspaper  published  in  Thurston  County.  It  was  called  the 
Columbian  and  the  first  issue  appeared  on  September  11,  1852. 

The  regular  district  school  opened  this  year  and  was 
taught  by  David  L.  Phillips. 

The  pioneer  settlers  now  began  to  feel  the  absolute  ne- 
cessity for  a  division  of  the  territory  and  desired  to  be  set  aside 
from  Oregon.  Agitation  along  these  lines  resulted  in  a  call 
for  a  convention  to  meet  at  Montieello  November  25,  1852. 
Monticello  was  then  a  considerable  settlement  on  the  Cow- 
litz River. 

Thurston  Countv  sent  as  delegates  to  this  convention  M. 


THURSTON   COUNTY  15 

T.  Simmons,  S.  D.   Ruddle,  S.  P.  Moses,   Adam  Wylie.  Q.   A. 
Jrooks  aiid  C,  H.  Hale. 

The  result  of  this  convention  was  that  Congress  was  mem- 
orialized  to  create  the  Territory  of  Columbia  out  of  that  jior- 
tion  of  Oregon  lying  north  and  west  of  the  Columbia  River. 
There  was  no  opposition  on  the  part  of  the  people  of  Oregon 
to  this  separation,  and  the  result  was  that  the  new^  territory 
Avas  created  by  an  Act  signed  by  the  President  on  March  3. 
1853.  Congress,  however,  oTerruled  the  people  in  the  mattei 
i<f  a  name  for  the  new  territory,  and  inasmuch  as  there  was 
iilready  a  District  of  Columbia,  it  was  decided  to  honor  the 
Father  of  His  Country — hence  the  Territory  of  Washington. 

A  school  house  was  erected  in  the  Fall  of  1852  on  the  now 
northwest  corner  of  Sixth  and  Franklin  Streets,  Olympia.  The 
f<tructure  was  a  frail  one  and  succumbed  under  a  heavy  fal; 
of  snow  during  the  winter.     It  was  rebuilt  later. 

The  tide  of  immigration  now  set  in  quite  strong,  and  de 
mand  for  lumber  increasing,  a  mill  was  built  at  Xew  ^Market 
by  Ira  Ward,  N.  Barnes  and  S.  Hays,  wnth  a  daily  output  of 
3,000  feet  per  day. 

In  January,  1853,  before  the  new  Territorial  Governmenl 
became  effective,  the  Oregon  Territorial  Legislature  created 
the  Counties  of  Pierce,  King,  Island  and  Jefferson,  all  out  of 
Thurston  County,  leaving  the  latter  to  include  only  the  pres- 
ent Counties  of  Thurston,  Chehalis  and  ^lason. 

President  Pierce,  soon  after  his  inauguration,  appointed 
Isaac  I.  Stevens  as  Governor  of  the  new  Territory;  Chas.  H. 
]\Iason,  Secretary ;  J.  S.  Clendennin,  Attorney ;  J.  Patton  An- 
derson, Marshal;  Edward  Lander,  Chief  Justice;  Victor  ]Mon- 
roe  and  0.  B.  McFadden,  Associate  Justices. 

Marshal  Anderson's  first  official  act  was  to  cause  a  cen 
hus  to  be  taken,  and  a  population  of  3,965  was  reported,  of 
which  1682  were  voters. 

Transportation  and  mail  facilities  in  1853  were  very  un- 
satisfactory for  the  residents  of  the  Sound  region.  At  this 
time  connection  was  made  with  Portland  by  means  of  a  stage 
which  left  Olympia  every  Tuesday,  connecting  with  boats  on 
the  Columbia.  Later,  how(;ver,  B.  F.  Yantis  and  A.  15.  Ralv 
beson    formed    a    partnership    for    the    purpose    of    running   a 


16  HISTORICAL   SKETCH 

.stage  line,  and  advertised  to  put  their  passengers  through  in 
twelve  hours. 

In  1853  the  resources  of  the  County  began  to  be  devel- 
(pped.  A  little  coal  was  mined,  a  bed  of  natural  oysters  was 
discovered  on  Budd's  Inlet,  and  hewed  timber  was  quoted  at 
16  to  18  cents  per  cubic  foot,  shingles  $4.50  to  $5.00  per  thous- 
and and  cordwood  $4.00  per  cord. 

The  necessity  for  an  emigrant  route  over  the  Cascades 
led  to  a  public  meeting  being  held  in  Thurston  County  and 
a  committee  appointed  to  view  out  a  route,  and  a  road  through 
the  Natchez  pass  was  the  result,  which  was  a  means  of  greatly 
stimulating  emigration. 

In  the  Summer  of  1853,  a  census  taken  for  Thurston 
County  showed  a  population  of  996.  The  first  grand  and 
petit  jurors  were  drawn  at  this  time. 

Governor  Stevens  reached  Olympia  on  November  25, 
1853,  five  months  and  nineteen  days  from  St.  Paul.  Secretary 
Charles  H.  Mason  had  already  arrived. 

Among  those  ready  to  welcome  the  new  Governor  to  th? 
Sound  were  Colonel  William  Cock,  Shirley  Ensign,  D.  R.  Bige- 
low,  Geo.  A.  Barnes,  H.  A.  Goldsborough,  Jno.  M.  Swan,  C. 
H.  Hale,  Judge  B.  P.  Yantis,  Judge  Gilmore  Hays,  Jno.  G. 
Parker,  Quincy  A.  Brooks,  Dr.  G.  K.  Willard,  Col.  M.  T.  Sim- 
mons, Capt.  Clanrick  Crosby,  Ira  Ward,  James  Biles,  Joseph 
Cushman,  S.  W.  Percival,  Edwin  Marsh,  R.  M.  Walker,  Levi 
and  James  Offut,  J.  C.  Head,  W.  Dobbins,  Isaac  Hawk,  Rev. 
Geo.  F.  Whitworth,  Jared  S.  Hurd,  H.  R.  Woodward.  B.  F. 
Brown,  and  M.  Hurd. 

The  arrival  of  the  new  Governor  was  the  most  momentous 
event  that  had  occurred  in  the  history  of  Olympia,  and  on  his 
appearance  in  the  garb  of  a  hardy  frontiersman  he  was  given 
a  hearty  welcome  and  reception  at  the  Washington  Hotel 
(now  standing)  at  the  corner  of  JMain  and  Second  Streets, 
and  when,  a  little  later  Governor  Stevens  delivered  a  lecture, 
giving  the  results  of  his  explorations  for  a  Northern  trans- 
continental route,  the  enthusiasm  of  the  pioneers  was 
boundles.'?. 

Immediately  upon  arrival  of  the  Governor,  he  issued  ;; 
proclamation  establishing  election  districts,  and  appointing 
January  30,  1854,  as  the  time  for  holding  an  election  for  dele- 


THURSTON   COUNTY  17 

gate  to  Congress,  and  members  of  the  Legislature,  -which  was 
to  meet  in  Olympia  Febrrary  28th. 

The  Governor  appointed  M.  T.  Simmons  Indian  Agent  for 
the  Puget  Sound  Indians  and  sent  him  to  visit  the  various 
tribes,  and  bear  a  message  of  friendship  fr;)m  tlie  White 
Father. 

Tlie  first  political  e;)mpaign  in  Thurston  County  was  an 
exciting  one,  in  which  three  parties  participated,  the  Demo- 
cratic, AVhig  and  Union.  The  Legislative  nominees  on  the  re- 
spective tickets  were  as  follow\s : 

Democratic — For  Councilman,  D.  R.  Bigelow  and  S.  D. 
Kuddell ;  for  Representatives.  L.  D.  Durgin,  George  Gallaher, 
David  Shelton  and  A.  J.  Chambers. 

Union — For  Councilman,  D.  R.  BigeloAv  and  B.  F.  Yan- 
tis;  for  Representatives,  A.  W.  Moore,  F.  W.  Glaseow,  S.  S. 
Ford,  and  James  H.  Roundtree. 

Whig — For  Councilman,  B.  F.  Yantis  and  E.  J.  Allen; 
for  Representatives,  Ira  Ward,  C.  H.  Hale,  J.  L.  Brown.  Galla- 
tin Hartsock. 

After  a  short  but  hard-fought  campaign  the  following 
were  elected:  Councilmen,  B.  F.  Yantis  and  D.  R.  Bigelow; 
Representatives,  L.  D.  Durgin,  David  Shelton,  Ira  Ward,  and 
C.  H.  Hale. 

Judge  Columbus  Lancaster  was  elected  first  Delegate  to 
Congress. 

TTpon  convening  of  the  Legislature  in  a  small  two-story 
building  on  Main  Street,  between  Second  and  Third,  the  Gov- 
ernor delivered  an  able  message,  in  which  he  predicted  a  Ijril- 
liant  future  for  the  new  territory,  much  of  which  has  already 
been  realized ;  urged  County  and  school  organization  and  the 
organization  of  a  militia.  He  dwelt  on  the  importance  of 
extinguishing  the  Indian  titles  and  the  claims  of  the  Hudson 
Bay  and  Puget  Sound  Agricultural  Companies  and  settling 
the  boundary  line  of  the  British  side,  and  advised  the  Leg- 
islature to  memorialize  Congress  for  the  appointment  of  a 
Surveyor-General  to  facilitate  the  survey  (vf  the  lands,  and 
advocated  many  other  salutary  measures  which  were  promptly 
adopted  by  the  Legislature  except  the  recommendation  re- 
garding a   militia.     This   proved   a   bad  oversight   as  later  de- 


18  HISTORICAL   SKETCH 

velopments  showed,  when  two  years  later  the  Indians  became 
hostile. 

Governor  Stevens  purchased  Block  8-i,  Olynipia,  for  his  fu- 
ture home,  and  a  tract  of  ten  acres  in  what  is  now  known 
as  Maple  Park.  He  also  contracted  for  the  purchase  of  the 
north  half  of  the  Walker  donation  claim,  between  Olympia 
and  Tumwater. 

Governor  Stevens,  amid  his  other  duties,  worked  with 
zeal  on  the  reports  of  his  exploration  for  the  Northern  trans- 
continental route  and  was  assisted  by  Capt.  IMcClellan  (after- 
wards Gen.  Geo.  B.  McClellan)  and  others.  Governor  Stevens' 
offices  were  in  two  one-story  building's  on  the  West  side  of 
Main  Street,  between  Second  and  Third  Streets. 

The  Governor  reported  to  Secretary  of  War  Jefferson 
C.  Davis  on  his  exploration  and  later  received  peremptory 
orders  to  bring  his  operations  along-  these  lines  to  a  close, 
which  he  did,  but  not  without  urging  their  continuance  at  a 
later  day.  The  opposition  with  which  Governor  Stevens  met 
in  this  regard  was  doubtless  due  to  the  eag'erness  of  the  future 
President  of  the  Southern  Confederacy  for  a  Southern  trans- 
continental route. 

The  acts  of  the  first  Legislature  affecting  Thurston  County 
was  that  of  creating  Chehalis  County  out  of  the  southwest 
part  of  the  former  and  Sawamish  out  of  the  northwest  sec- 
tion, thus  materially  reducing  the  area  of  Thurston.  The 
name  of  the  latter  County  was  afterward  changed  to  Mason, 
after  the  first  Secretary  of  the  Territory. 

Also  a  road  was  ordered  located  between  Olympia  and 
Shoalwater  Bay;  from  Cathlamet  to  S.  S.  Ford's  in  Thurston 
County;  Olympia  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River,  and 
Olympia  to  Monticello. 

The  Legislature  also  appointed  County  officers  for  the 
various  Counties,  and  the  following  were  assigned  for  Thurs- 
ton County:  County  Commissioners,  S.  S.  Ford,  David  J. 
Chambers  and  James  McAllister ;  Auditor,  U.  E.  Hicks ;  Sher- 
iff, Frank  Kennedy ;  Assessor,  Whitfield  Kertley ;  Probate 
Judge,  Stephen  D.  Ruddle;  County  Treasurer,  D.  R.  Bigelow; 
School  Superintendent,  Elwood  Evans ;  William  Plumb,  Nathan 
Eaton  and  Joseph  Broshears,  Justices  of  the  Peace. 


THURSTON   COUNTY  19 

Stephen  Ruddle  deelining  the  Probate  Judgeship,  Joseph 
Cushmau  was  appointed  in  his  place. 

The  County  Commissioners  adopted  measures  protecting 
the  school  interests  in  the  matter  of  public  lauds;  fixed  the 
license  fee  for  retailing  liquor  at  $100  for  six  months,  and 
bowling  alleys  at  $25  per  annum,  and  accepted  a  report  from 
Thos.  J.  Chambers,  who  had  been  appointed  to  mark  out  a 
quarter  section  of  land  for  the  benefit  of  a  County  seat  to  be 
the  most  valuable  unclaimed  laud  within  the  limits  of  the 
County.  Mr.  Chambers  reported  in  favor  of  section  19,  town- 
ship 18,  range  1  West. 

The  tax  rolls  for  185-1  showed  a  valuation  of  $418,140 
and  the  rate  of  taxation  was  fixed  at  3  mills. 

The  Commissioners  this  year  authorized  the  construction 
of  a  bridge  across  the  Bay  on  the  Eastside  at  a  cost  of  $500, 
and  (me  across  the  Skookumchuck,  for  which  they  appropriated 
.$1,000.  The  former  bridge  was  built  at  a  cost  of  $1,500,  $1,000 
being  subscribed  for  that  purpose. 

Up  to  this  time  no  proper  provision  had  been  made  for 
County  offices  and  records  were  kept  in  a  very  temporary 
manner.  The  Commissioners  now  authorized  a  contract  for 
a  Court  House  to  cost  not  to  exceed  $1,200  and  ordered  the 
Auditor  to  procure  suitable  books  for  the  records. 

At  the  election  in  1854  three  tickets  were  in  the  field, 
Free  Soil,  Democratic  and  Whig. 

There  were  no  local  issues  involved  and  the  battle  was 
fought  along  the  lines  agitated  in  the  East.  The  straight 
Democratic  County  ticket  was  elected,  as  follows  : 

Representatives,  Wm.  Cock,  B.  L.  Henness,  Stephen  Guth- 
rie, Wm.  P.  Wells;  Count}^  Commissioners,  Levi  Shelton,  S.  S. 
Ford,  John  Low ;  Probate  Judge,  Joseph  Cushmau ;  School 
Superintendent,  D.  R.  Bigelow;  Auditor,  U.  E.  Ilicks;  Treas- 
urer, Wm.  Rutledge;  Sheriff,  A.  B.  Rabbeson ;  Assessor.  Wm. 
Packwood ;  Coroner,  A.  J.  Baldwin.  J.  Patton  Anderson,  who 
had  come  to  tlie  Territory  as  United  States  Marshal,  was 
elected  as  Delegate  to  Congress. 

During  this  period  Governor  Stevens  retununl  East,  spend- 
ing much  of  his  time  at  the  National  Capitol,  in  the  interests 
of.  his  Territory.  IMuch  of  the  legislation  secured  for  Wash- 
ington was  due  to  his  efforts,  which  included  needed  amend- 


20  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

liients  to  the  land  laws  and  the  creation  of  the  ofiPee  of  Sur- 
veyor General,  and  making-  appropriations  for  surveys  and 
mail  service. 

Governor  Stevens  and  his  family  left  New  York  City  for 
the  Territory  September  20,  1354,  and  arrived  at  their  new 
home  in  December.  A  pen  picture  of  the  impression  gained 
by  the  familj',  upon  their  arrival,  as  described  by  General 
Stevens,  showed  conditions  as  they  then  prevailed : 

"It  was  a  dreary  dark  December  day.  It  had  rained 
considerably.  The  road  from  Tumwater  to  Olympia  was  ankle 
deep  in  mud  and  thrided  a  dense  forest  with  a  narrow  track. 
With  expectations  raised  at  the  idea  of  seeing  the  Capital  and 
chief  town  of  the  Territory,  the  weary  travelers  toiled  up  a 
small  hill  in  the  edge  of  the  timber,  reached  the  summit  and 
eagerly  looked  to  see  the  new  metropolis.  Their  hearts  sank 
with  bitter  disappointment  as  they  surveyed  the  dismal  and 
forlorn  scene  before  them.  A  low,  flat  neck  of  land,  running 
into  the  bay,  down  it  stretched  the  narrow,  muddy  track, 
winding  among  the  stumps,  which  stood  thickly  on  either  side 
twenty  small  wooden  houses  bordered  the  road,  while  back  of 
them  on  the  left  and  next  the  shore  were  a  number  of  Indian 
lodges,  with  canoes  drawn  up  on  the  beach,  and  Indians  and 
dogs  lounging  about."  The  little  hill  mentioned  is  where  the 
Masonic  Temple  novv^  stands,  opposite  the  new  Federal  building. 
The  site  of  the  Indian  camp  is  now  Columbia  Street,  between 
Third  and  Fourth.  There  were  only  one  or  two  buildings 
above,  or  south  of  Sixth  Street.  The  public  square  was  a 
tangle  of  fallen  timber.  Main  street  terminated  in  Giddings' 
wharf,  which  was  left  high  and  dry  at  low  tides." 

It  is  not  a  matter  of  surprise  that  the  Governor's  family 
were  appalled  at  the  appearance  of  their  future  home,  accen- 
tuated as  it  was  by  the  hardships  of  the  trip  from  the  East, 
the  latter  part  of  which  is  thus  described: 

"*  *  *  The  party  took  canoes  (at  a  point  named  Rainier), 
manned  by  Indians,  crossed  the  Columbia  and  paddled  a  few 
miles  up  the  Cowlitz  to  Monticello,  where  they  spent  the  night. 
At  daylight  the  next  morning  the  Governor  and  family  em- 
barked in  one  canoe,  while  the  trunks  and  baggage  followed 
in  another,  and  pushed  up  stream  against  a  swift  current. 
There  were  in  the  canoe  the  Governor,    his    wife    and    four 


THURSTON    COUNTY  21 

children,  the  nurse  and  a  erew  of  four  Indians,  two  on  each 
end.  It  was  a  dark,  drizzling'  day.  with  frequent  showers. 
The  passengers  sat  upon  the  bottom  of  the  canoe  upon  plenty 
of  Indian  mats  and  well  wrapped  in  blankets,  and,  except  for 
the  strained  and  irksome  position  were  fairly  comfortable. 
The  Indians,  urged  by  promises  of  extra  pay,  paddled  vigor- 
ously. At  the  rapids  (and  it  seemed  that  nearly  all  the  stream 
was  in  rapids)  they  laid  aside  their  paddles,  and,  standing 
up,  forced  the  canoe  ahead  with  poles,  Mdiich  they  Avielded  with 
great  skill  and  vigor.  *  *  *  It  was  dark  Avhen  they  reached 
Cowlitz  Landing,  thirty  miles  from  ]Montieello.^' 

]\Irs.  Stevens  continues  the  narrative,  here  quoted,  as  a 
vivid  description  of  the  methods  of  travel  in  this  section  at 
that   time : 

"*  *  *  We  walked  ankle  deep  in  mud  to  a  small  log 
house,  where  we  had  a  good  meal.  Here  we  found  a  number 
of  rough,  dirty-looking  men,  with  pantaloons  tucked  inside 
their  boots,  and  so  much  hair  upon  their  heads  and  faces  that 
they  all  looked  alike.  After  tea  we  were  show-n  a  room  to 
sleep  in,  full  of  beds,  which  were  for  the  women.  I  was  so 
Avorn  out  with  the  novel  way  of  traveling,  that  I  laid  down 
on  a  narrow  strip  of  bed,  not  undressed,  all  my  family  along- 
side on  the  same  bed.  The  Governor  sat  on  a  stool  near  by, 
and.  strange  to  say,  slept  sound  through  the  long,  dismal  night 
He  had  been  shown  his  bed  up  through  a  hole  on  top  of  the 
shanty.  He  said  one  look  was  sufficient.  IMen  Avere  strewn 
as  thick  as  possible  on  the  floor  in  their  blankets.  The  steam 
generated  from  their  wet  clothes,  boots  and  blankets  was 
stifling.  One  small  hole  cut  through  the  roof  Avas  the  only 
ventilation.  As  soon  as  breakfast  was  over  the  next  morn- 
ing, we  mounted  a  wagon  without  springs  and  proceeded  on 
our  journey.  There  surely  were  no  worse  roads  in  the  world 
than  this.  The  horses  went  down  deep  into  the  mud  every 
step ;  the  wheels  sank  to  the  hub,  and  often  had  to  be  pried 
out.  We  forded  rivers,  the  w^ater  coming  above  our  ankles  in 
the  wagon.  jMany  big,  deep  holes  th(\v  would  .iump  over, 
making  the  horses  run  quick,  when  the  wagon  woiihl  .jump 
across,  shaking  us  up  fearfully.  In  one  of  these  holes  the 
horses  fell  down,  and  we  stuck  fast  in  the  nuid.  We  wcvo 
taken  from  the  Avagon  by  men  of  our  party,  plunging  up  to 


22  HISTORICAL   SKETCH 

their  kneos  in  iiiud,  jijkI  carrying  lis  out  by  sheer  force  of 
their  strength.  After  seating  us  upon  a  fallen  h)g,  the  horses 
were,  with  difficulty,  extricated  from  the  mud.  After  an- 
other long  day's  tiresome  travel  we  stopped  at  a  log'  house 
for  the  night." 

The  Governor's  party  proceeded  the  following  day  through 
a  drizzling  rain,  with  the  roads  all  but  impassible.  At  Saun- 
ders Bottom,  wdiere  the  Town  of  Chehalis  now  stands,  the  mud 
was  knee  deep  for  two  miles.  This  day  the  party  made  25 
miles.  The  travelers  reached  Olympia  the  next  day,  after 
80  miles'  travel,  upon  a  somewhat  better  road.  Such  were 
the  hardships  endured  by  those  looking  for  new  homes  in  the 
far  Northwest,  but  harder  yet  were  the  experiences  of  those 
reaching  here  by  way  of  the  Natchez  Pass,  as  many  were  com- 
ing that  way. 

An  idea  of  the  cost  of  living  during  this  period,  ma.y  be 
gleaned  from  the  following  market  report,  published  in  the 
only  paper  printed  in  the  Territory  at  that  time : 

Potatoes,  per  bushel,  $3 ;  flour,  $10  per  100  pounds ;  pork, 
20  cents ;  butter,  $1  per  pound ;  onions,  $4  ber  bushel ;  eggs, 
$1  a  dozen ;  beets,  $3.50  per  bushel ;  sugar,  12^,4  cents ;  coffee, 
18  cents;  tea,  $1;  molasses,  75  cents;  salmon,  10  cents.  Sawed 
lumber  for  $20  per  thousand;  cedar,  $30;  shingles,  $-1.50;  piles, 
per  foot,  5  to  8  cents ;  square  timber,  per  foot,  12  to  15  cents. 

In  December,  1854,  W.  B.  Goodell  established  a  stage  line 
between  Olympia  and  Cowlitz  via  Grand  ]Mound,  leaving 
Olympia  on  Tuesdays  and  Fridays  of  each  week.  At  Cowlitz, 
near  the  present  site  of  Toledo,  it  made  connections  with 
boats  for  Monticello  and  Portland.  Olympia  to  Grand  IMound, 
.$3.50;  to  Cowlitz.  $10.00. 

W.  W.  Miller  built  a  saw  mill  the  latter  part  of  1854  on 
the  East  side  of  Budd's  Inlet,  a  short  distance  below  the 
town,  and  the  old  Masonic  hall  was  built  on  the  site  of  the 
more  pretentious  Temple  of  today.  In  this  old  building  the 
Legislative  session  of  1855  was  held.  Edward  Giddings  built 
a  wharf,  300  feet  long,  at  the  foot  of  Main  Street,  which  was 
used  for  many  years.  Later  it  was  extended  to  deep  water 
and  was  used  until  the  Government  deepened  the  channel  for 
a  nearer  approach  to  the  town. 

In    1855,    Samuel    Coulter,    who    had    been    appointed    As- 


THURSTON   COUNTY  23 

sessor,  reported  the  valuation  of  taxable  property  at  $396,825, 
and  a  levy  of  4  mills  was  made.  The  County  debt,  at  the  same 
time  amounted  to  $4,888.29. 

Among  other  duties  devolving  upon  the  Legislature  of 
1855  was  that  of  permanently  locating  the  seat  of  Govern- 
ment. Hon.  Arthur  A.  Denny  was  a  member  of  the  House 
from  King  County,  and  spoke  as  follows  upon  the  subject: 

"Mr.  Speaker: — I  propose  to  do  now  what  I  have  not 
done  before :  I  propose  to  say  now  what  I  have  not  heretofore 
said  to  anyone  (if  my  memory  serves  me)  relative  to  my 
views  upon  this  location  question.  I  now  for  the  first  time 
announce  my  purpose  to  vote  for  the  location  of  the  territorial 
capital  at  or  near  Olympia ;  and  for  my  vote  upon  this  ques- 
tion I  shall  briefly  assign  a  few  reasons. 

"Justice  to  all  sections  of  the  territory  require  at  our 
hands  patient  and  careful  investigation  as  to  the  proper  place 
at  which  to  locate  the  Territorial  capital.  Its  location  should 
be  central  both  as  to  its  geographical  position,  as  well  as  to 
its  center  compared  with  our  population.  In  my  investigation 
of  this  question,  I  have  arrived  at  the  conclusion  that  Olympia 
is  nearer  the  geographical  center  than  any  other  point  I 
have  heard  mentioned  during  the  discussion  on  this  subject — 
and  that  it  is  also  nearer  the  center  of  our  present  popula- 
tion. If,  Mr.  Speaker,  you  take  Thurston  County,  with  its 
population  and  add  it  to  the  Counties  north,  there  will  be 
found  a  clear  and  decided  majority  of  the  population  of  our 
Territory  in  those  Counties.  If  you  will  take  Thurston  from 
the  northern  Counties  and  unite  her  with  the  Counties  south. 
then  it  will  show  a  still  more  decided  majority  south.  Thus  it 
is  clearly  demonstrated  that  Olympia  is  about  the  center  of 
population  in  this  Territory.  It  is  as  easily  accessible  from 
all  parts  of  the  Territory  as  any  place  which  has  been  named 
during  the  pendency  of  this  question,  or  that  could  have  been 
named.  It  is  at  the  head  of  navigation  at  a  point  the  farthest 
inland,  accessible  from  all  Counties  north  by  all  manner  of 
watercraft  from  steanu'r  down  to  the  Indian  canoe.  It  is  in 
a  direct  line  from  the  Counties  south  to  the  Counties  north, 
of  the  Territory.  If  you  travel  from  the  northern  to  the 
southern  Counties,  you  must  go  through  Thurston  or  travel 
out  of  your  course.     If  you  travel   from  the  southern  to   the 


24  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

northern  Counties  you  have  to  pass  through  Thurston.  Then 
as  to  the  particular  hieati'ai — the  site  is  ehjarly  eligible,  the 
land  selected  is  elevated  and  overlooks  the  placid  waters  of 
l^uget  Sound  for  many  miles  to  the  northward.  The  scenery 
is  grand  and  imposing — to  the  north  the  Coast  Range  is  seen 
looming  up  in  the  distance,  Mount  Olympus  standing  out  in 
bold  relief  amidst  the  hundreds  of  less  elevated  peaks  iu  the 
vicinity. 

"Indeed,  Mr.  Speaker,  I  know  of  no  other  place  combin- 
ing anything  like  the  claims,  all  things  considered,  to  the  Ter- 
litorial  capital  as  does  this  immediate  vicinity;  hence  I  shall 
most  willingly  give  my  support  to  the  bill  under  consideration. 
In  doing  so,  I  am  influenced  by  no  motives  of  a  pecuniary 
character — I  own  no  town  lots  or  landed  estate  in  Thurston 
County  and  such  is  the  poor  estimate  of  my  vote  or  influ- 
ence that  I  have  not  had  even  the  offer  of  an  oyster  supper 
from  tiie  good  citizens  of  Olympia  as  an  inducement  for 
either." 

Even  as  early  as  1855  the  question  of  prohibition  was,  to 
some  extent,  agitated.  This  year  the  Legislature  submitted 
the  question  of  the  maruifacture  and  sale  of  ardent  spirits  to  a 
vote  of  the  people  of  the  Territory  at  the  next  election  in 
July.  Quite  a  vigorous  campaign  was  had,  Elwood  Evans 
being  appointed  Chairman  of  the  Executive  Committee,  who 
issued  a  call  upon  temperance  people  to  form  societies. 

A  Democratic  County  Convention  was  called  for  April  of 
this  year.  The  Whig  convention  was  held  ]\Iay  5,  and  the 
Free  Soil  convention  May  26.  At  the  election  Thurston  County 
gave  J.  Patton  Anderson,  Democratic  candidate  for  Delegate 
to  Congress  nine  majority.  Wm.  Cock  was  elected  Council- 
man ;  R.  M.  Walker,  C.  B.  Baker,  D.  J.  Chambers,  Repre- 
sentatives; T.  F.  Berry,  Surveyor;  Assessor,  W.  B.  D.  New- 
man; Commissioner,  J.  S.  Broshears;  Fence  Viewer,  R.  ]\[. 
Walker;  Lieutenant  Colonel,  Joseph  Miles;  ^Major,  J.  K.  Ilurd. 

The  vote  of  Thurston  by  precincts  will  give  the  reader  a 
practical  idea  of  how  the  population  was  scattered  through- 
out the  County :  Three  hundred  and  seventy-three  votes  were 
cast  as  follows:  Olympia  precinct,  260;  South  Bay,  18;  Black 
Lake,     15;    Yelm   Prairie,     18;    Grand     ]Mound,     39;     Miami, 


THURSTON    COUNTY  25 

9 ;  Coal  Bank,  18.  Prohibition  received  a  majority  of  14  votes 
lu  this  County,  but  failed  to  earrj^  in  the  Territory. 

In  August,  1855,  a  two  story  school  building  was  erected 
to  replace  the  one  that  had  been  crushed  by  snoAv  a  few  years 
previously.  This  building  has  served  various  purposes.  Erected 
as  a  school  house  originally,  it  was  so  used  for  years ;  from  1871 
to  1892  it  was  the  Court  house,  and  latter  became  a  newspaper 
office.  It  has  since  been  moved  off  the  property  at  Sixth  and 
Franklin  and  is  now  occupied  as  a  lodging  house. 

A  history  of  the  year  1856  is  almost  exclusively  a  story 
of  Indian  troubles.  All  the  serious  difficulties  that  Thurs- 
ton County  experienced  in  this  regard,  or  during  which  much 
apprehension  was  felt,  was  during  this  year.  Reports  were 
coming  to  Olympia  of  troubles  in  the  White  River  valley,  which 
aroused  considerable  apprehension.  The  Yakima  tribes  were 
the  troublesome  element,  and  it  was  presumed  then,  and  has 
since  been  accepted  as  reasonably  certain,  that  they  were  en- 
couraged in  their  depredations  by  the  Hudson  Bay  Company, 
which,   in  this  way,  hoped  to   discourage  immigTation. 

The  first  overt  act  to  occur  in  Thurston  County,  -and 
from  which  trouble  may  be  said  to  date,  was  early  in  1854, 
when  a  Kake  (a  Northern  tribe)  Indian  was  killed  by  a  man 
named  Burke,  both  of  whom  worked  for  H.  L.  Butler,  at  But- 
ler's Cove.  Subsequently  the  Northern  Indians  frequently 
visited  the  head  of  the  Sound  and  committed  depredations. 
The  acts  at  least  became  so  flagrant  that  Commander  Swart- 
out,  then  in  command  of  what  United  States  navy  there  was 
in  these  waters,  was  notified.  On  November  20th,  he  made 
an  attack  upon  their  camp  at  Port  Gamble.  About  thirty 
were  killed  and  twenty  wounded,  their  camp  and  canoes 
destroyed.  The  remainder  were  taken  to  Victoria.  This  act 
l)ut  served  to  whet  the  appetite  of  the  Indians  for  revenge. 

The  Indians  on  the  Sound,  including  those  on  the  Straits, 
numbered  about  8,000,  divided  into  many  tribes  and  bands. 

Governor  Stevens,  early  in  his  administration,  outlined 
a  very  wise  and  pacific  policy  toward  the  Indians,  and  one 
which  he  devoted  himself  to  actively  and  sincerely,  the  fea- 
tures of  which  were : 

1.     To  concentrate  the  Indians  upon  a  few  reservations 


26  HISTORICAL   SKETCH 

and  encourage  them  to  cultivate  the  soil  and  adopt  civilized 
habits. 

2.  To  pay  for  their  lands  in  annuities  of  l)Iankets,  cloth- 
ing, and  stable  articles  during  a  long  term  of  years,  rather 
than  in  money. 

3.  To  furnish  them  with  schools,  teachers,  farmers  and 
farming  implements,  blacksmiths  and  carpenters,  with  shops 
of  their  trade. 

4.  To  discourage  wars  and  disputes  among  them. 

5.  To  abolish  slavery. 

6.  To  stop,  as  far  as  possible,  the  use  of  liquor. 

7.  They  were  to  retain  rights  of  hunting  and  fishing  on 
vacant  lands. 

8.  That  at  some  future  date,  when  they  were  deemed 
fitted  for  it,  the  reservations  were  to  be  allotted  to  them  in 
severalty. 

The  first  Council  in  Thurston  County  was  held  on  ^IcAl- 
lister  Creek,  a  mile  above  its  mouth,  on  the  right  bank. 

The  Indians,  to  the  number  of  650,  assembled,  and  Gov- 
ernor Stevens  made  an  address,  at  once  pacific  and  appealing, 
in  which  he  made  plain  to  the  Indians  his  policy  as  outlined 
above,  and  invited  their  co-operation. 

The  treaty  was  then  read,  section  by  section,  and  the 
Indians  given  every  opportunity  to  discuss  it.  After  which, 
there  being  no  objections,  the  treaty  was  signed  b.y  Governor 
I.  I.  Stevens  and  the  Chiefs,  Delegates  and  Headmen  on  the 
part  of  the  Indians.  Provisions  and  presents  were  then  de- 
livered to  the  Chiefs,  who  divided  them  among  the  Indians. 

Following  is  a  synopsis  of  the  treaty: 

1.  The  Indians  to  cede  their  lands  in  Thurston,  Pierce 
and    parts    of    Mason    and   King    to   the    United    States. 

2.  Set  off  as  reservations :  Squaxon  Island,  containing 
about  1280  acres ;  a  square  tract  of  two  sections  near  and 
south  of  the  mouth  of  McAllister  Creek  and  another  equal 
tract  on  the  south  side  of  Commencement  Bay,  Avith  accessible 
roads  to  and  through  them. 

3.  Conceded  right  of  fishing  and  hunting  on  other  than 
claimed  lands. 

4.  Twenty-two  thousand  five  hundred  dollars  to  be 
paid  in  annuities  in  staple  and  useful  articles. 


THURSTON    COUNTY  27 

5.  Thirty  thousand  two  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  to 
be  expended  in  placing  the  Indians  on  their  reservations. 

6.  Empowered  the  President  to  remove  the  Indians  when 
the  interests  of  the  Territory  demanded,  by  reimbursing  the 
Indians  for  improvements. 

7.  Prohibited  use  of  annuities  to  pay  personal  debts. 

8.  Prohibited  wars,  and  provided  for  arbitration  of  dif- 
ferences by  the  Government. 

9.  Excluded  licjuor  from  reservations  on  penalty  of  for- 
feiture of  annuity. 

10.  Provided  for  a  General  Agency  and  instruction  in 
useful  trades  for  twenty  years. 

11.  Abolished  slavery. 

12.  Prohibited  trade  by  the  Indians  outside  of  the  UniteJ 
States,  and  forbade  foreign  Indians  residing  on  the  reserva- 
tions except  by  consent  of  the  Agent. 

Sixty-tv/o  Indians  signed.  Leschi,  an  intelligent  and  de- 
signing Indian,  who  has  since  been  immortalized  by  having 
a  Seattle  park  named  for  him,  being  the  third.  The  first  signer 
was  Qui-ee-muth,  Leschi 's  brother.  Both  these  Indians  met 
death  as  a  reward  for  their  treachery. 

On  October  14,  1855,  Acting  Governor  Mason  issued  a 
proclamation,  stating  conditions  and  called  for  the  enrollment 
of  two  Companies,  and  Vancouver  and  Olympia  were  named 
as  places  of  enrollment. 

The  Company  enrolled  at  Olympia  was  called  the  Puget 
Sound  IMounted  Volunteers,  which  elected  officers  as  follows ; 
Captain,  Gilmore  Hays;  First  Lieutenant,  Jared  S.  Hurd ;  Sec- 
ond Lieutenant,  Wm.  Martin;  First  Sergeant,  Joseph  Gibson; 
Second  Sergeant,  H.  D.  Cock;  Third  Sergeant,  Thomas 
Prather ;  Fourth  Sergeant,  Joseph  White ;  First  Corporal,  Jo- 
seph S.  Taylor;  Second  Corporal,  Whitfield  Kirtley;  Third 
Corporal,  D.  T.  Wheelock;  Fourth  Corporal,  John  Scott. 

The  people  were  disappointed  in  receiving  arms  that  were 
expected  at  that  time,  which  necessitated  a  visit  b.y  Surveyor 
General  Tilton  to  Seattle  with  a  view  to  securing  arms  from 
the  Decatur,  a  sloop  of  war,  and  the  revenue  cutter  Jefferson 
Davis,  both  then  in  the  harbor.  He  was  successful  to  the  ex  • 
tent  of  securing  30  muskets,  40  carbines,  50  holster  pistols,  50 
sabers  and  belts  and  3500  ball  cartridges. 


28  HISTORICAL   SKETCH 

Nathan  Eaton,  a  settler  in  Thurston,  was  authorized  bv 
Acting  Governor  IMason,  to  organize  a  Company  of  Rangers, 
which  was  officered  as  follows:  First  Lieutenant,  James  Mc- 
Allister; Second  Lieutenant,  James  Tullis;  Third  Lieutenant. 
A.  ]\L  Poe ;  First  Sergeant.  John  Harold ;  Second  Sergeant, 
Chas.  E.  Weed;  Third  Sergeant,  W.  W.  Miller;  Fourth  Ser- 
geant, S.  Phillips ;  First  Corporal,  S.  D.  Reinhart ;  Second 
Corporal,  Thos.  Bracken ;  Third  Corporal,  S.  Hodgdon ;  Fourth 
Corporal,  James  Hughes. 

Both  Companies  proceeded  to  White  River  valley  on  Oc- 
tober 20.  1855. 

A  Company  was  organized  on  IMound  Prairie  and  the 
citizens  then  built  a  blockhouse  for  protection.  A  Company 
was  also  formed  on  Chambers  Prairie. 

As  a  precautionary  measure  it  was  deemed  wise  to  hold 
a  reserve  force  and  four  more  Companies  were  called  for.  By 
the  terms  of  this  call.  Lewis,  Thurston,  Pierce  and  Samamish 
were  to  furnish  one  Company  to  enroll  at  Olympia.  This 
Company  enrolled  110  men  and  elected  the  following  officers: 
Captain,  Geo.  B.  Goudy;  First  Lieutenant,  W.  B.  Affleck;  Sec- 
ond Lieutenant,  J.  K.  Hurd ;  First  Sergeant,  Francis  Lindler ; 
Second  Sergeant,  A.  J.  Baldwin;  Third  Sergeant,  F.  W.  Sealy; 
Fourth  Sergeant,  James  Roberts.  Jos.  Walraven,  E.  W.  Austin, 
Hiel  Barnes  and  Joseph  Dean,   Corporals. 

Stockades  for  the  protection  of  families  were  built  in 
this  County,  one  on  Chambers  Prairie  and  one  on  Mound 
Prairie.  Business  was  practically  suspended  in  town  and 
claims  Vv^ere  abandoned  in  the  country.  IMen  were  either  pre- 
paring to  leave  for  the  scene  of  the  trouble  or  were  engaged 
in  the  erection  of  forts  and  stockades  for  protection. 

The  Rangers  left  home  on  October  24th,  to  seek  the  wilv 
Chief  of  the  Nesquallys,  Leschi,  who  was  the  instigator  of 
much  of  the  trouble  and  hostile  attitude  of  many  of  the  na- 
tives, but  they  found  he  had  gone  to  the  White  River  Valley. 
and  the  troops  immediately  started  in  pursuit.  At  Puyallup 
Crossing,  Captain  Eaton,  Lieutenant  McAllister  and  Connell, 
together  with  a  friendly  Lidian,  went  ahead  of  their  Com- 
pany to  have  a  conference  with  the  Indians.  The  Indians, 
with  characteristic  treachery,  professed  friendship.  Upon  re- 
turning to  camp,  i\IcAllister  and  Connell  were  fired  upon  and 


THURSTON    COUNTY  29 

killed.  An  Indian  rode  to  the  IMeAllister  claim  and  told  the 
family  of  IMeAllister's  death  and  helped  them  to  the  fort  on 
Chambers'  Pi-airie.  A  few  days  later  Cols.  A.  B.  Closes  and 
Joseph  ]\Iiles  were  killed.  It  was  for  the  mnrder  of  these 
men  that  Lesehi  was  afterward  executed. 

Emissaries  from  the  hostiles  on  the  East  side  of  the  moun- 
tains visited  the  Sound  Indians,  and  by  ingenious  argument  in- 
cited the  natives  on  this  side  to  hostility.  Straggling  bands 
Avere  perpetrating  outrages  here  and  there,  and  thus  were 
families  intimidated  and  forced  to  take  refuge  in  Olympia 
A  town  meeting  was  held,  at  which  Wm.  Cock  was  chosen 
chairman  and  Elwood  Evans,  secretary.  After  discussing 
the  situation  it  was  resolved  to  build  a  stockade.  Rev.  J.  F 
Devore,  R.  M.  Walker  and  Wm.  Cock  were  constituted  a  com- 
mittee to  proceed  at  once  on  works  for  defense,  and.  if  neces- 
sary, to  detain  the  brig  Tarquina,  then  in  the  harl~»or,  as  a 
means  of  refuge. 

W^hile  this  condition  existed  and  a  sable  cloud  lay  Ioav 
over  the  little  town,  the  bodies  of  ^McAllister,  Closes  and 
]\Iiles  were  brought  in,  and  during  a  dismal  fall  of  rain,  the 
little  community  bared  their  heads  in  grief  over  the  mortal 
remains  of  their  first  martyrs.  The  three  young  men  were 
buried  on  Chambers'  Prairie. 

A  stockade  was  erected  along  Fourth  Street,  from  bay 
to  bay,  with  a  block  house  at  the  corner  of  Main,  on  which 
was  placed  a  cannon. 

These  Avere  merely  precautionary  measures.  Actual  fight- 
ing occurred  only  in  the  White  and  Puyallup  Valleys,  and  iri 
December,  the  ^lilitia  Companies  Avere  disbanded. 

An  attack  on  Seattle  occurred  January  26,  1856,  an  1 
CoA'ernor  Stevens  then  issued  a  proclamation  calling  for  six 
Companies,  tAvo  of  which  Avere  to  enroll  at  Olympia. 

The  entire  Avhite  population  of  the  Sound  at  this  tim: 
Avas  barely  4,000  souls  and  all  the  male  population  fit  to  bear 
arms  had  been  and  Avere  noAv  devoting  their  time  and  energies 
1o  defense,  rather  than  in  the  pursuit  of  their  occupations; 
they  were  destitute  and  discouraged,  and  Avere  receiving  little 
or  no  help  from  the  Government. 

The  first  Company  here  to  respond  Avas  officered  as  fol- 
loAvs:     Captain,  Gilmore  Hays;  First  Lieutenant,  A.  B.  Rabbe- 


30  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

son ;  Second  Lieutenant,  AVni.  ]\Iartin ;  Orderly  Sergeant,  Frank 
Ruth;  Sergeants,  A.  J.  ]Moses,  D.  ^lartin,  M.  Goddell;  Cor- 
porals, N.  B.  Cotfey,  J.  L.  ^Myers,  F.  Hughes,  H.  Horton. 

A  Company  of  Mounted  Rangers  elected  officers  as  follows : 
Captain,  B.  L.  Henness;  First  Lieutenant,  Geo.  C.  Blanken- 
ship;  Second  Lieutenant,  F.  A.  Godwin;  Sergeants,  Jos.  Cush- 
man,  W.  J.  Yeager,  Henry  Laws,  Jas.  Phillips ;  Corporals,  Wm. 
F.  Kady,  Thos.  Hicks,  S.  A.  Phillips,  H.  A.  Johnson. 

On  February  8  there  was  organized  a  company  of  minei*s 
and  sappers  under  Captain  Jas.  A.  White;  U.  E.  Hicks,  First 
Lieutenant ;  McLain  Chambers,  Second  Lieutenant ;  D.  J.  Hub- 
bard, C.  White,  ]\Iarcus  Mc^Millan,  H.  G.  Parsons,  Sergeants, 
Corporals,  Isaac  Lemon,  Wm.  Ruddell.  Wm.  Mengle.  This 
Company  was  organized  to  cut  roads,  build  fortifications,  guard 
stock,  etc. 

Adjutant  General  Tilton,  on  March  1,  issued  a  call  for 
100  more  men  for  service  under  jMajor  Hays,  with  headquarters 
at  Olympia,  and  in  April  a  block  house  was  built,  sufficient  to 
accommodate  the  whole  population,  on  a  site  now  known  as 
Capital  Park.  The  spot  is  indicated  by  a  stone,  erected  by  the 
Daughters  of  the  American  Revolution,  to  mark  the  end  of 
the  Oregon  trail. 

The  Indians  now  seemed  tiring  of  the  unavailing  struggle, 
although  a  Peace  Commission  composed  of  M.  T.  Simmons  and 
Ed.  C.  Fitzhugh.  appointed  by  the  Governor  to  treat  with  the 
Indians,  was  unable  to  bring  about  satisfactory  results.  But 
the  Indians  were  disbanding  and  the  soldiers  returned  home, 
subject  to  call  and  were  finally  mustered  out  in  August.  The 
horses,  stores,  etc.,  were  sold  at  public  auction.  An  incident 
which  shows  the  characteristic  integrity  and  regard  for  honor 
prevalent  among  the  pioneers  is  here  given.  An  officer  of 
one  of  the  volunteer  Companies  had  captured  a  mule  in  Grand  j 
Ronde  Valley.  While  in  the  service,  he  rode  it  home  to 
Olympia,  and  turned  it  in.  He  desired  to  bid  it  in  and  own 
if,  but  the  highest  bid  was  $475  and  the  faithful  volunteer, 
impoverished  by  ten  luonths'  military'  service,  was  unable  to 
meet  the  raise. 

During  the  struggle  stockades  and  block  houses  had  been 
built  in  Thurston  County  by  settlers  as  follows:  Stockade 
at  Cochran's,  Skookumehuck;  stockade,  Fort  Henness,  Grand 


THURSTON   COUNTY  31 

]\r()und  Prairie;  stockade  at  Goodell's,  Grand  ^lound  Prairie; 
block  house.  Tenalqiiot  Prairie;  block  house,  Nathan  Eaton's. 
Chambers  Prairie;  two  block  houses,  Chambers  Prairie;  block 
house  at  Ruddell's,  Chambers  Prairie;  stockade  at  Bush's. 
Bush  Prairie;  block  house  at  Eutledge's,  Bush  Prairie;  two 
block  houses  in  Tumwater;  block  house  at  Doffelmeyer's  Point. 

Forts  and  block  houses  built  in  Thurston  County  by  the 
Volunteers  were:  Block  house  at  Skookumchuck,  Fort  ■Miller. 
Tenalquot  Plains;  Fort  Stevens,  Yelm  Prairie;  block  house  at 
liowe's.  Chambers  Prairie;  block  house  and  stockade  at 
Oh'mpia. 

No  stockades  were  built  by  the  Federal  troops  in  Thurs- 
ton County. 

The  Volunteers  had  acquitted  themselves  credita])ly. 
Though  a  sturdy  type  of  the  Western  pioneer,  they  had  sulv 
jected  themselves  to  strict  discipline.  All  captured  property 
was  turned  over  or  accounted  for.  No  case  of  wanton  kill- 
ing of  Indians  had  been  reported. 

At  the  close  of  hostility  the  settlers  justly  felt  that  the 
murderers  among  the  Indians  should  be  tried  and  subjected 
to  punishment.  In  this  they  were  firmly  supported  by  Gov- 
ernor Stevens.  In  a  letter  to  Col.  Casey,  the  Governor  asked 
his  assistance  to  this  end : 

''I  have,  therefore,  to  request  your  aid  in  apprehending 
Leschi,  Qui-ee-muth,  Kitsap,  Slahi  and  Nelson,  and  other  mur- 
derers, and  to  keep  them  in  custody  awaiting  a  warrant  from 
the  nearest  magistrate     *     *     *. 

"In  conclusion  I  have  to  state  that  I  do  not  believe  that 
eny  country  or  any  age  has  afforded  an  example  of  the  kind- 
ness and  justice  which  has  been  shown  towards  the  Indians 
by  the  suffering  inhabitants  of  the  Sound  during  the  recent 
troubles.  They  have,  in  spite  of  the  few  cases  of  murder  which 
have  occurred,  shown  themselves  eminently  law-abiding,  a  just 
and  forbearing  people.  They  desire  the  murderers  of  the  In- 
dians to  be  punished,  but  they  complain,  and  they  have  a 
right  to  complain,  if  the  Indians,  whose  hands  are  steeped 
in  the  blood  of  the  innocent,  go  unwhipped  of  justice." 

There  had  arisen  a  question  between  the  Governor  and 
llie  military  as  to  wether  any  promise  of  protection  had  beer, 
nuide   to   the   Indians   when   they   delivered   themselves   up   to 


32  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

Colonel  Wright  in  Yakima,  Col.  Casey  claiming  that  to  attempt 
to  hold  any  on  a  charge  of  murder  would  be  a  violation  of 
good  faith.  The  Governor  positively  controverted  the  assump- 
tion of  protection  to  the  Indians,  as  he  had  received  positive 
assurance  from  Col.  Wright  that  he  had  made  no  terras  with 
them  and  promised  them  no  immnnity.  The  Governor,  rely- 
ing upon  this  statement  made  to  him  by  Col.  Wright,  in  the 
presence  of  creditable  witnesses,  refused  to  receive  and  take 
charge  of  a  party  of  about  100  Sound  Indians  until  the  mur- 
derers were  arrested,  claiming  that  Leschi  and  the  others  had 
committed  murders  in  time  of  peace,  in  a  barbarous  Avay. 
when  their  victims  were  unaware  of  danger. 

However,  the  accused  murderers  were  arrested  and  in- 
dicted and  received  by  Col.  Casey  for  custody  at  Fort  Steila- 
coom.  whereupon  the  Governor  took  charge  of  the  other  In- 
dians and  returned  them  to  their  reservations.  At  the  first 
trial  of  Leschi  the  jurj^  disagreed,  but  at  a  subsequent  trial  he 
Vv^as  convicted.  The  case  was  appealed  to  the  Supreme 
Court,  where  the  judgment  of  the  lower  court  was  affirmed, 
and  the  murderer  was  sentenced  to  be  hanged  on  January 
22,  1858,  at  Fort  Steilacoom.  Petitions  were  circulated  for 
jjardon  and  numerous  remonstrances  were  filed  with  the  Gov- 
ernor, but  the  Governor  declined  to  interfere.  Time  for  th<^ 
execution  passed  and  Leschi  still  lived.  A  committee,  ap- 
jiointed  by  indignant  citizens,  inquired  into  the  cause  for  de- 
lay. The  report  of  this  committee  disclosed  interference  by 
the  military  authorities  at  Fort  Steilacoom,  and  severely  cen- 
sured the  Sheriff  of  Pierce  County.  At  a  session  of  the  Su- 
preme Court  February  12,  1858,  Leschi  was  re-sentenced  to 
hang  February  19.  Sheriff  Hays  was  ordered  to  carry  out 
the  order  of  the  court.  In  the  absence  of  the  Sheriff,  Deputy 
^Mitchell  went,  with  a  posse  of  twelve  men,  to  Steilacoom.  where 
the  sentence  was  carried  out  and  Leschi  was  made  to  pay  tli":- 
penalty  of  his  crimes. 

Yelm  Jim.  who  had  been  charged  with  the  murder  of 
Wm.  White  in  March,  1856,  came  to  trial  April,  1859.  He 
was  found  guilt}^  and  was  sentenced  to  be  hanged.  Before 
the  time  set  for  the  execution  arrived,  however,  two  Indians 
came  to  Olympia  and  confessed  to  the  crime.  Yelm  Jim  was 
pardoned. 


THURSTON    COUNTY  33 

Qui-ee-muth,  Lesehi's  brother,  was  captured  near  Yelm 
and  broug:ht  to  the  Governor's  oflfice  in  01ymi)ia  late  at  night. 
The  Governor  stationed  a  guard  over  the  Indian,  with  strid; 
orders  for  protection  until  morning,  when  the  prisoner  would 
be  removed  to  Steilacoom.  About  daylight,  while  the  guard 
slept,  a  man  burst  into  the  room,  shooting  the  Indian  in  the 
arm  and  then  stabbing  him.  The  deed  was  done  and  the 
assassin  gone  before  the  guard  was  thoroughly  aroused.  Tin- 
man  making  the  attack  was  not  identified,  and  no  testimony 
could  be  found  against  anyone.  The  impression  gained  cred- 
ence, however,  that  Joseph  Bunting,  son-in-law  of  McAllister, 
committed  the  deed,  thus  revenging  the  death  of  McAllister. 

As  has  been  before  stated,  the  Indians,  in  their  hostilities 
toward  the  settlers,  were  much  encouraged  by  the  Hudson 
Bay  Company.  During  the  war  there  lived  in  the  country 
back  of  Steilacoom,  a  number  of  ex-employees  of  the  Com- 
pany, who  had  Indian  wives  and  half  breed  children.  It  was 
reported  to  the  Governor  that  these  men  were  giving  aid  and 
comfort  to  the  Indians.  The  Indians  who  killed  White  and 
Northcraft  in  Thurston  County,  were  tracked  straight  to  the 
houses  of  these  men,  who,  when  asked  concerning  it,  admitted 
the  fact,  but  denied  any  knowledge  of  their  acts. 

As  a  precautionary  measure,  the  Governor  ordered  these 
men  to  remove  either  to  Steilacoom,  Nisqually  or  Olympia. 
until  the  end  of  hostilities,  where  they  would  be  harmless  to 
the  interests  of  the  settlers.  Accordingly  twelve  of  them 
moved  in.  They  had  taken  out  their  first  papers  and  had 
located  donation  claims.  A  few  lawyers  who  had  not  dis- 
tinguished themselves  by  assisting,  or  even  been  identified 
with,  the  worthy  settler  in  resisting  the  Indians,  here  saw  -i 
chance  for  serving  their  own  purposes,  and  incited  these  men 
to  resist  the  Governor's  order  in  the  courts,  and  in  the  mean- 
time return  to  their  claims,  which  five  of  them  did.  On 
learning  this,  the  Governor  ordered  them  arrested  and  turned 
over  to  Col.  Casey  at  Fort  Steilacoom. 

Then  the  designing  lawyers  sued  out  a  writ  of  habeas 
corpus.  To  forestall  an  effort  on  the  part  of  the  conspirators 
to  seriously  impair  the  plans  of  his  administration,  the  Gov- 
ernor declared  martial  law  on  April  3.  The  prisoners  were 
brought  to  Olympia  and  incarcerated  in  the  old  block  house 


34  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

en  the  public  square.  Judge  Chenoweth,  whose  place  it  was 
to  hear  the  proceedings,  plead  illness,  and  asked  Judge  Lander, 
whose  district  included  Thurston  County,  to  hear  the  habeas 
corpus  cases.  Lander  hastened  to  Steilacoom  and  opened  court 
May  7.  The  Governor  had  urged  the  Judge  to  adjourn  court 
until  Indian  troubles  were  over,  which  must  necessarily  be 
soon,  and  all  trouble  thus  averted.  But  Lander  proceeded 
to  open  court,  whereupon  Col.  Shaw  walked  into  court  and 
arrested  the  Judge  and  the  officers  of  his  court  and  brought 
them  to  Olympia,  where  they  were  released. 

Lander,  being  then  at  home,  and  the  time  for  holding 
court  in  his  own  district  having  arrived,  he  opened  court  on 
the  14th,  and  summoned  the  Governor  to  answer  contempt 
proceedings.  The  Governor  ignored  the  order  and  accordingly 
United  States  Marshal  Geo.  W.  Corliss  proceeded  to  the  Gov- 
ernor's office  to  arrest  him.  The  ]Marshal  and  his  party,  how- 
ever, after  failing  to  execute  their  errand,  were  ejected  from 
the  office  by  a  party  composed  of  Major  Tilton,  Capt.  Cain, 
Jas.  Doty,  Q.  A.  Brooks,  R.  M.  Walker,  A.  J.  Baldwin,  Lewis 
Ensign,  Chas.  E.  Weed  and  J.  L.  Mitchell. 

Mounted  volunteers  entered  the  Town  and  Judge  Lander 
hearing  of  their  approach,  adjourned  court,  and,  in  company 
with  Elwood  Evans,  went  to  the  office  of  the  latter  and  locked 
themselves  in.  Captain  IMiller,  with  his  men,  approached,  and 
finding  himself  barred,  remarked:  "I  will  here  add  a  new 
letter  to  the  alphabet,  let  'er  rip,"  and  kicked  in  the  door 
and  arrested  the  occupants  of  the  room.  Evans  was  re- 
leased at  once.  Lander  was  held  in  honorable  custody  until 
the  war  was  over. 

Much  was  made  of  this  act  by  the  enemies  of  Governor 
Stevens  to  injure  him  and  his  administration.  A  mass  meet- 
ing was  held  in  Olympia  on  the  public  square  (now  Capital 
Park),  which  was  presided  over  by  Judge  B.  F.  Yantis,  J.  W. 
Goodell,  Secretary,  which  heartily  endorsed  the  course  of  th^ 
Governor  in  declaring  martial  law. 

The  proclamation  revoking  martial  law  was  promulgated 
May  24  and  Lander  held  court  in  July  following.  The  Gov- 
ernor appeared  in  court  by  counsel  disclaiming  any  disrespect 
to  the  Court,  was  fined  $50,  which  he  paid,  and  the  incident 
was  closed. 


THURSTON  COUNTY  35 

At  the  election  which  occurred  in  July,  Thurston  County 
elected  the  entire  Democratic  ticket,  except  Sheriff,  which 
was  as  follows :     Councilman.  J.  W.  Wiley ;  Representatives, 

B.  L.  Henness,  C.  B.  Baker,  J.  A.  Longmire,  Daniel  Kiper,  G. 

C.  Blankenship.  Wm.  Rutledge ;  Auditor.  Wm.  Wright ;  As- 
sessor, T.  W.  Glascow;  Treasurer,  G.  K.  AVillard;  Coroner,  H. 

D.  Morgan.  Isaac  Hays,  on  the  Whig  ticket,  defeated  Samuel 
Coulter.  The  Democratic  ticket  was  opposed  by  the  Whigs 
and  Free  Soilers. 

The  Puget  Sound  Institute,  a  private  school,  was  organ- 
ized this  year  by  Rev.  J.  F.  Dillon,  a  IMethodist  minister,  as- 
sisted bj'  his  wife. 

The  end  of  the  year  1856  found  confidence  restored 
among  the  settlers,  who  had  returned  to  the  pursuit  of  their 
avocations.  Settlers  had  returned  to  their  claims  without 
fear.  The  first  threshing  machine  was  brought  into  the  County 
and  a  cabinet  and  chair  factory  was  opened  in  toAvn. 

J.  M.  Swan  platted  his  donation  claim  adjoining  the 
Sylvester  tract,  on  the  East  side  of  the  baj',  which  was 
known  for  many  years  as  Swantown. 

The  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Company  was  incorporated 
by  the  Legislature  of  1857.  Under  the  terms  of  the  charter 
the  road  was  to  commence  at  one  of  the  passes  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains  between  the  Territories  of  Washington  and  Ne- 
braska and  connecting  with  such  road  passing  through  Min- 
nesota and  Nebraska  as  the  Company  might  select,  thence  to 
the  Sound.  The  following  residents  of  the  Territorj^  were 
incorporators :  I.  I.  Stevens,  C.  H.  Mason,  E.  Lander,  Geo. 
Gibbs,  B.  F.  Kendall,  Wm.  Cock,  R.  M.  Walker,  W.  W.  ]\Iiller. 
W.  H.  Wallace,  Lafayette  Balch,  M.  T.  Simmons,  Elwoud 
Evans,  A.  A.  Denny,  David  Phillips,  Alex  Abernethy,  J.  P. 
Keller,  Jas.  Tilton,  E.  H.  Fowler,  S.  D.  Howe,  E.  C.  Fitz- 
hugh,  Walter  Crockett,  L.  H.  Davis,  C.  C.  Pagett,  Jno.  R. 
Jackson,  Seth  Catlin,  Wm.  Strong,  Wm.  Dillon,  Sumner 
Barker,  Wm.  Kelly.  Ira  Patterson,  H.  D.  Huntington,  N.  Os- 
trander  and  B.  B.  Bishop. 

The  Legislature  also  authorized  the  appointing  of  a  Board 
of  Commissioners  with  authority  to  build  a  bridge  across  the 
Western  arm  of  Budd's  Inlet.  Wm.  Cock,  Edwin  IMarsh.  W. 
W.   Miller,   Wm.  McLean,   J.   K.  Kurd,    Jos.  Cnshnian,  S.  W. 


36  HISTORICAL,    SKETCH 

Percival  and  Elwood  Evans  composed  the  Commission.  The 
report  favored  a  bridg-e  1803  feet  long,  with  a  draw,  at  an 
estimated  cost  of  $3000. 

At  the  March  term  of  the  Conntj'  Commissioners  the 
election  precincts  of  Coal  Bank.  Rabbeson's  Prairie,  Xisqually 
Prairie  and  Miami  were  abandoned  and  the  territory  attached 
to  adjoining  precincts.  This  was  due,  in  a  great  extent,  to 
the  depopulating  of  the  country  by  the  Indian  War. 

Notwithstanding  the  fact  that  the  country  showed  a  falling 
off  in  population,  Olympia  continued  to  improve  and  a  number 
uf  small  industries  were  started  in  1857. 

The  rate  of  taxation  was  3  mills  for  County  purposes. 
1  for  court,  1  for  territorial,  and  2  mills  for  school  purposes. 

On  July  13  the  annual  election  occurred.  The  opposition 
to  the  Democrats  of  the  year  before  had  united  under  the 
name  of  Republican.  The  Democrats  carried  the  election, 
losing  only  the  School  Superintendent  and  Prosecuting  At- 
torney. The  following  officers  were  elected :  Representatives 
W.  W.  Miller,  Stephen  Guthrie,  B.  F.  Shaw,  C.  B.  Baker.  T.  W 
Glascow ;  Joint  Representative,  W.  M.  Morrow ;  Probate  Judge. 
G.  K.  Willard ;  Assessor,  J.  R.  Smith ;  Countj^  Commissioner, 
James  Biles ;  School  Superintendent,  G.  F.  Whitworth ;  Prose 
cuting  Attorney,  C.  C.  Hewitt;  Coroner,  C.  H.  Hale. 

Governor  Stevens  was  elected  delegate  to  Congress  thi*; 
year,  and  Fayette  McMullan  was  appointed  to  fill  his  plact 
as  Governor.  McMullan  arrived  in  September  and  was  en- 
thusiastically received. 

A  contract  was  awarded  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Com- 
pany to  carry  the  mail  from  San  Francisco  to  Olympia. 

The  steamer  Fairy,  owned  and  operated  on  Puget  Sound 
by  A.  B.  Rabbeson,  plying  between  Olympia  and  Steilacoom 
blew  up  when  leaving  the  wharf  at  the  latter  place,  October  15. 

The  year  1858  was  distinguished  by  the  Frazier  River  ex- 
citement. Settlers  in  Washington  and  Oregon  again  abandoned 
their  claims  in  quest  of  riches,  as  ten  years  before  California 
had  attracted  them. 

Olympia.  being  at  the  head  of  tidewater  and  the  only 
town  north  of  the  Columbia,  Avas  an  outfitting  point  for  the 
miners. 


THURSTON    COUNTY  37 

Wells  Fargo  &  Co.  established  an  office  in  Olynipia  this 
year,  with  T.  M.  Reed  as  agent. 

The  election  of  1858  resnlted  in  the  choice  of  the  entire 
Democratic  ticket  as  follows:  Councilman,  W.  W.  ]\Iiller; 
Representatives,  E.  Sylvester,  B.  L.  Henness,  Wm.  Rntledge 
J.  M.  Hawk,  Jas.  Longmire,  Oliver  Shead;  Prosecuting  At- 
torney, B.  P.  Anderson ;  County  Commissioner,  Jas.  Cornell ; 
Treasurer,  G.  K.  Willard ;  Auditor,  Richard  Lane ;  Sheriff. 
G.  C.  Blankenship ;  Assessor,  Wm.  ]\Iartin ;  Coroner,  A.  J. 
Baldwin. 

As  early  as  1858  the  matter  of  a  transcontinental  railroad 
began  to  be  actively  agitated.  A  meeting  was  held  in  Masonic 
Hall,  September  29th,  and  Congress  urged  to  make  a  land 
grant  to  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad.  At  this  meeting 
Elwood  Evans  presided. 

Fruit  growing  as  an  industry  began  to  attract  attention 
and  two  nurseries  were  established  in  the  County. 

A  postal  agent  visited  01.ympia  in  the  fall  of  this  year  and 
arranged  for  the  mail  steamer  Constitution  leaving  on  Monday 
instead  of  Friday.  Connections  were  made  at  San  Francisco 
by  which  overland  mail  reached  Olympia  from  St.  Louis  in 
24  days. 

In  May  of  1859  the  Commissioners  called  a  special  election 
to  vote  a  4-mill  tax  to  build  a  new  Courthouse.  It  was  ho])ed 
to  derive  a  revenue  of  $5,000,  $2,500  to  be  applied  to  existing 
indebtedness.     The  proposition  was  decidedly  defeated. 

At  the  election  in  July  the  Democrats  and  Republicans 
had  tickets  in  the  field,  the  former  being  successful.  For 
Councilman,  Jas.  Biles ;  Representatives,  B.  L.  Henness,  G.  K 
Willard,  Oliver  Shead,  A.  S.  Yantis,  Chas.  E.  Weed,  Levi 
Shelton ;  County  Commissioner,  A.  J.  Chambers ;  Assessor. 
Jno.  Chambers. 

Secretary  C.  H.  IMason  died  in  July  of  this  year,  at  tlif 
age  of  29.    He  was  universally  loved  and  respected. 

Immigration  into  Thurston  County  received  a  decided 
impetus  at  this  time  and  resulted  in  much  encouraging  tlic 
earlier  settlers. 

In  October  General  Winfield  Scott  visited  Olympia.  iu' 
having  come  to  the  Northwest  in  connection  with  the  inter- 
national boundary  question. 


260140 


38  HISTORICAL    SKETCH 

At  the  session  of  the  legislature  this  year  a  bill  was  intro- 
dneed  removing  the  Capitol  from  Olympia  to  Vancouver,  which 
passed  the  house  by  a  vote  of  19  to  9,  but  met  defeat  in  the 
Council  by  one  vote. 

In  the  winter  of  this  3'ear,  as  a  result  of  frequent  fires, 
the  first  steps  toward  protection  were  taken  by  the  organiza- 
tion of  the  Alert  Hook  and  Ladder  Company — Foreman,  C.  E. 
Williams ;  1st  Assistant,  J.  L.  Head ;  2d  Assistant,  H.  D.  Mor- 
gan ;  President,  T.  M.  Reed ;  Secretary,  A.  J.  ]\Ioses ;  Treasurer. 
W.  G.  Dunlap. 

The  Puget  Sound  University  was  chartered  this  year,  with 
the  following  officers :  D.  R.  Bigelow,  Chancellor ;  Gr.  A.  Barnes 
Vice  President;  Rev.  B.  C.  Lippincott,  President  and  General 
Agent. 

The  town  of  Olympia  was  incorporated  January  29,  1859. 
the  election  to  be  held  in  April  following.  The  Act  designated 
G.  A.  Barnes,  T.  F.  McElroy,  Jas.  Tilton,  Jos.  Cushman  and 
Elwood  Evans  as  Trustees.  Jos.  Cushman  was  elected  Presi- 
dent of  the  Board. 

At  the  April  election  U.  G.  Warbass,  Geo.  A.  Barnes 
Edwin  Marsh,  W.  D.  Dunlap  and  Isaac  Lightner  were  elected 
Trustees.  Geo.  A.  Barnes  was  elected  President  and  Richard 
Lane  Clerk  of  the  Board.  Dr.  Warbass  declined  to  serve  and 
Elwood  Evans  was  appointed. 

Contracts  w^ere  let  for  cisterns  at  the  intersections  of 
Second,  Third  and  Fourth  Streets  with  Main  Street.  The  old 
blockhouse  on  the  square  was  fitted  up  for  a  jail. 

A  reaction  from  the  good  times  of  the  previous  years  was 
experienced  in  1860.  The  war  cloud  was  looming  large  in 
the  East,  and  helped  to  a  degree  the  depression.  The  Capitol  re- 
moval w^as  again  agitated  in  every  County,  which,  together 
with  a  heavy  assessment,  on  the  previous  year's  boom  valua- 
tions, did  not  help  to  relieve  the  feeling  of  discouragement. 

William  Wright  resigning  as  County  Treasurer,  T.  F. 
3IcElroy  was  appointed  to  fill  the  vacancy. 

At  this  time  Olympia  w^as  served  by  four  religious  de- 
nominations :  Methodist,  Presbyterian,  Catholic  and  Epis- 
copalian. 

At  the  election  this  year  the  realignment  in  political  parties 
began,  as  a  result  of    the  war    issues,   though    the  Democrats 


THURSTON   COUNTY  39 

elected  most  of  their  ticket.  The  following  County  officers 
were  elected  for  the  ensuing  year:  Representatives,  D.  L. 
Phillips,  B.  F.  Ruth,  B.  L.  Henness,  U.  G.  Warbass,  Gilmorc 
Hays  and  C.  H.  Hale;  Sheriff,  AVm.  Billings;  School  Superiti- 
tendent,  R.  i\I.  Walker ;  Auditor,  Richard  Lane ;  Treasurer. 
Wm.  Wright;  Commissioner,  S.  S.  Ford;  Probate  Judge,  R.  ^I. 
Walker;  Assessor,  A.  W.  Sargent. 

At  the  legislative  session  this  year  steps  were  taken 
toward  the  erection  of  a  capitol  building.  A  Commissioner 
was  appointed  and  bids  called  for.  The  matter  went  by  de- 
fault, however,  as  no  satisfactory  bids  were  received. 

The  Federal  census  of  this  year  showed  a  population  of 
1489  for  Thurston  County — 967  males,  522  females.  Real  prop- 
erty valuation  was  $942,990;  personal,  $586,710. 

Henry  Winsor  was  awarded  a  daily  mail  contract  between 
Olympia  and  Montieello. 

The  Washington  Standard  was  this  year  started  by  John 
Miller  Murphy  as  a  Republican  paper  and  the  Pioneer  and 
Democrat  was  sold  by  Wiiey  &  Furste  to  James  Lodge. 

Swantown  was  connected  with  the  main  town  by  a  foot- 
bridge early  this  year. 

The  following  Town  Board  Avas  elected  in  1860:  G.  A. 
Barnes.  Elwood  Evans,  W.  G.  Dunlap,  Isaac  Lightner,  Edwin 
Marsh.  Wm.  Billings  was  elected  Marshal  and  D.  R.  Bigelow, 
Police  Judge. 

When  the  legislature  of  1860-61  convened  it  was  quite 
apparent  that  Portland,  Oregon,  w^as  taking  part  in  Washing- 
ton Territory's  Capital  fight,  in  her  own  interests.  Under  the 
great  influence  brought  to  bear  the  bill  for  removal  to  Van- 
couver passed  both  houses  and  was  approved.  However,  it 
Avas  discovered,  after  adjournment  of  the  legislature,  that  the 
bill  had  no  enacting  clause,  and,  as  enrolled,  bore  no  date. 
At  a  session  of  the  Supreme  Court  at  Olympia,  a  plea  as  to  the 
jurisdietion  of  the  Court,  in  one  case,  w^as  entered.  This 
brought  the  question  squarely  before  the  Court.  The  plea  was 
(■verruled,  and  Olympia  has  since  remained  the  Capital. 

The  legislature  attached  the  south  part  of  Thurston  County 
to  Lewis  County. 

In  July  the  question  of  Capital  location  was  submitted 
to  the  people  with  the  following  result :     Whole  number  of 


40  HISTORICAL    SKETCH 

votes  cast  2315,  of  which  Olympia  received  1239,  Vancouver 
639,  Steilacoom  253.  Scattering  votes  went  to  Port  Townsend, 
Walla  Walla  and  Seattle. 

In  1861  the  people  of  Tnmwater  offered,  as  a  bonus  for 
the  location  of  the  County  seat  at  Tumwater,  a  considerable 
amount  in  lumber,  shingles,  labor  and  land.  C.  Crosby  and 
wife  filed  with  the  Commissioners  a  bond  in  the  sum  of  $-4000. 
conditioned  on  the  delivery  of  a  deed  for  four  blocks  of  land. 
At  the  same  session  Olympia  offered  to  donate  the  public 
square  to  the  County  on  condition  that  the  County  seat  remain 
undisturbed. 

The  matter  being  submitted  to  the  people  at  the  annual 
election  following,  Olympia  received  344,  Tumwater  104,  West 
Olympia  4.  Upon  a  delivery  of  a  conveyance  of  the  public 
square  to  the  County  a  call  was  made  for  bids  for  200,000 
bricks,  wnth  which  to  build  a  jail. 

By  the  attaching  of  a  portion  of  Thurston  County  to 
Lewds,  Commissioner  Biles  was  disqualified  from  acting,  though 
by  failure  of  his  successor  to  qualify^  Mr.  Biles  presided  at  the 
next  meeting  of  the  Board,  fixing  a  rate  of  7  mills  for  school, 
court  and  Territorial  purpose.s. 

The  legislature  of  1861  had  extended  the  terms  of  County 
officers  to  two  years,  hence  only  Representatives  to  the  legis- 
lature and  County  Commissioners  were  elected  this  year. 

B.  F.  Ruth.  A.  S.  Yantis,  Wm.  Cock  and  Wm.  ]\IcLain 
were  elected  Representatives.  G.  W.  ^Miller  and  G.  W.  French 
were  elected  Commissioners. 

In  the  Summer  of  1861  A.  M.  Poe  established  the  Overland 
Press  in  Olympia. 

Rev.  B.  C.  Lippincott  this  year  assumed  charge  of  the 
public  school  in  Olympia. 

At  the  Spring  election  Elwood  Evans,  T.  M.  Reed,  B. 
Harned,  A.  Frankee  and  S.  W.  Percival  were  elected  Trustees 
R.  Lane  was  chosen  Clerk.  Wm.  Billings,  Marshal,  and  W.  G. 
Dunlap,   Magistrate. 

Upon  the  abandonment  of  the  military  post  at  Steilacoom. 
Avhich  occurred  this  year,  some  uneasiness  was  felt  due  to  the 
prevalent  idea  that  the  absence  of  troops  might  encourage 
the   Indians  ^o  resume  hostilities.     But   the   vear  closed  with 


THOMAS  OTCHIN 


THURSTON    COUNTY  41 

bright   prospects   for   the   Count}'.     Of   53   postoffiees   in  the 
'J'erritory,  Thurston  County  had  nine. 

Early  in  1862  the  erection  of  a  Courthouse  was  agitated. 
During  the  discussion  of  the  matter  it  was  discovered  that 
the  County  had  no  title  to  the  public  square,  which  it  had 
been  reserving  for  County  purposes.  It  will  be  recalled  that 
a  few  years  previously,  after  Tumwater  had  offered  a  bonus 
for  the  location  of  the  County  seat  there,  that  Olympia  made 
a  deed  to  the  County  for  the  public  square  (bounded  by  Sixth. 
Seventh,  Main  and  Washington  Streets).  Later  it  was  found 
that  Edmund  Sylvester  had  donated  this  to  the  city  for  park 
purposes  exclusively,  hence  the  conveyance  by  the  city  to  the 
County  was  invalid. 

At  the  May  term  of  the  Commissioners  this  year  they 
purchased  property  on  the  northeast  corner  of  Union  and 
Washington  streets,  which  had  formerly  been  used  for  school 
purposes,  and  awarded  a  contract  to  B.  Harned  to  fit  up  the 
building  for  courthouse  purposes. 

F.  M.  Sargent  resigned  as  County  Treasurer  and  S.  W. 
Percival  was  appointed  to  fill  the  vacancy. 

The  election  this  year  resulted  in  the  choice  of  the  follow- 
ing :  Joint  Councilman,  0.  B.  IMcFadden ;  Representatives, 
Wm.  McLain,  T.  Hunt,  II.  Kandle,  Jas.  Longmire ;  Sheriff. 
R.  W.  Moxlie ;  Auditor,  A.  W.  Moore ;  Treasurer,  S.  W.  Perci- 
val ;  Surveyor,  Edwin  Marsh ;  Attorney,  B.  F.  Dennison ;  Com- 
missioner, S.  D.  Ruddell. 

News  of  the  death  of  Isaac  I.  Stevens,  who  was  shot  in 
the  battle  of  Chantilly  on  September  1,  was  received  in  Olympia 
October  18.    Proper  memorial  services  were  held  here. 

Up  to  October  of  this  year  $2,210.08  had  been  raised  in 
Thurston  County  to  aid  the  F'ederal  cause. 

In  1862  B.  F.  Kendall,  a  man  of  marked  ability,  though 
combative  and  vindictive,  had  become  publisher  of  the  Over- 
lend  Press.  In  a  December  issue  he  charged  a  man  named 
Horace  Howe  with  burning  the  buildings  of  the  Puget  Sound 
Agricultural  Company,  in  Lewis  County.  Later  Howe  met 
Kendall  at  the  corner  of  Main  and  Third  Streets,  Olympia,  and 
during  a  controversy  struck  Kendall  with  a  switch  he  wai; 
holding.  Kendall  ran,  Howe  following,  for  a  short  distance, 
then  turned  and  fired  four  shots  at  his  pursuer,  one  entering 


42  HISTORICAL    SKETCH 

the  left  side  of  Howe,  which  proved  a  serious  but  not  fatal 
wound.  Kendall's  version,  as  published  in  his  own  paper,  gave 
offense  to  Howe's  friends,  and  on  January  8,  1863,  Howe's  son 
entered  Kendall's  office  and  asked  to  see  him  privately.  The 
two  retired  to  an  adjoining  room,  when  a  pistol  shot  was  heard 
and  Howe  came  from  the  room  saying.  "I  shot  him  in  self 
defense."  The  young  man  was  put  under  bail  for  his  appear- 
ance for  trial,  but  he  later  disappeared.  The  case  was  dis- 
missed, when  some  time  afterward  the  news  of  Howie's  death 
reached  Olympia.  The  pistol  used  by  the  assassin  was  one  be- 
longing to  a  prominent  Territorial  official,  which  gave  some 
color  to  the  belief  at  the  time  that  Kendall  was  the  victim  of 
&  plot  among  political  enemies. 

Town  Council  elected  this  year:  G.  A.  Barnes,  Jos.  Cush- 
man.  Jas.  Tilton,  C.  E.  Williams,  W.  G.  Dunlap.  R.  Lane, 
Clerk;  H.  M.  McGee,  Magistrate;  W.  B.  Gosnell,  Marshal. 
Dunlap  died  soon  after  election  and  David  Phillips  succeeded 
him. 

Logging  had  begun  to  be  engaged  in  cjuite  extensively  in 
and  about  Olympia,  the  output  finding  ready  market  at  good 
prices. 

In  1863,  being  an  off  year,  only  a  Legislative  ticket,   a 
Commissioner  and  Probate  Judge  were  elected.    The  Unionists 
defeated  the   Democrats,   with  the  following  result :     Repre 
sentatives,  C.  Crosby,  H.  D.  i\IcGee,  Wm.  McLain ;  Commission- 
er, Joseph  Gibson ;  Probate  Judge,  F.  M.  Sargent. 

At  the  Town  election  Jos.  Cushman,  C.  E.  Williams,  B. 
Harned,  S.  Holmes  and  Wm.  I\Iitchell  were  elected  Trustees; 
R.  Lane,  Clerk ;  F.  M.  Sargent,  IMagistrate,  and  John  Sealy. 
Marshal.     W.  J.  Yeager  succeeded  the  latter  later. 

The  Fall  of  1863  John  Paul  Judson  was  elected  teacher  of 
the  public  school  and  was  authorized  to  collect  from  the 
scholars,  or  parents,  a  sum  sufficient  to  make  his  salary  $80 
per  month  and  for  an  assistant  at  $120  per  cpiarter,  in  addition 
to  the  $50  allowed  by  law.  The  only  examination  to  which 
teachers  were  submitted  at  this  time  was  that  made  by  a  com- 
mittee of  the  Town  Board. 

The  year  186-1  was  one  of  unusual  ([uiet,  little  transpiring 
of  sufficient  importance  to  chronicle 


THURSTON    COUNTY  43 

A  tri-weekly  mail  contract  direct  to  Portland  was  awarded 
Henry  Winsor. 

At  the  election  Republicans  and  Democrats  placed  tickets 
in  the  field.  The  result  was  a  victory  for  the  Republicans, 
losing  only  their  candidate  for  Auditor.  Representatives,  C. 
Crosby,  S.  D.  Ruddle,  F.  M.  Rhodes;  Sheriff,  J.  H.  Kellett; 
Commissioner,  J.  Dunlaj);  Auditor,  R.  Lane;  Treasurer,  S.  \V. 
Percival. 

The  Fourth  of  July  was  enthusiastically  celebrated  this 
year,  at  the  close  of  which  a  Lincoln  and  Johnson  Club  was 
organized,  and  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  the  people  had  no 
vote  for  choice  of  President,  the  political  interest  was  intense. 

A  slight  flurry  was  occasioned  the  latter  part  of  1864  by 
the  report  that  gold  had  been  discovered  in  the  Nachez  Pass, 
about  70  miles  from  Olympia.  This  little  community  furnished 
its  quota  of  gold-seekers,  who  soon  returned  to  their  homes 
disappointed. 

Town  officers  elected :  Trustees.  L.  D.  Durgin,  Jesse  Chap- 
man, H.  M.  McGill,  A.  J.  Brown,  Edward  Giddings ;  Clerk,  R. 
Lane ;  Treasurer,  Jesse  Chapman ;  ^larshal,  J.  L.  Head ;  I\Iagis- 
trate,  F.  M.  Sargent. 

The  first  Sunday  closing  ordinance  was  passed  by  this 
Board. 

The  Committee  on  Streets  was  instructed  to  build  a  reser- 
voir about  a  spring  on  the  northeast  corner  of  Main  and  Fourth 
streets  and  establish  a  pump  for  the  convenience  of  the  general 
public.  This  spring,  which  furnished  pure  and  cold  water  had 
long  been  a  village  institution,  and  this  corner  a  gathering 
place  in  the  evening  when  alike  politics  and  village  gossip 
were  discussed. 

On  Sunday  evening,  September  4,  1864,  the  telegraph  was 
completed  to  Olympia.  The  following  congratulatory  dispatch 
was  sent  by  the  Territorial  executive  to  President  Lincoln.  It 
and  its  reply  were  the  first  messages  sent  between  this  Terri- 
tory and  the  National  Capital : 

AVashington  Territory,  Executive  Office, 
Olympia,  Sept.  5,  1854. 
To  His  Excellency  Abraham  Lincoln,  President  of  the  LTnited 

States : 

Washington  Territory  this  day  sends  her  first  telegraphic 


44  HISTORICAL   SKETCIJ 

dispatch  greeting  yourself,  Washington  City  and  the  whole 
United  States,  with  our  sincere  prayers  to  Almighty  God  that 
his  richest  blessings,  both  spiritual  and  temporal,  may  rest 
upon  and  perpetuate  the  Union  of  our  beloved  country,  that 
His  own  omnipotent  power  may  bless,  protect  and  defend  the 
President  of  the  United  States,  our  brave  army  and  gallant 
navy,  our  Congress,  and  every  department  of  the  National 
government. 

For  and  on  behalf  of  Washington  Territory. 

WILLIAM    PICKERING, 

Governor. 

(Reply) 

Washington,  D.  C,  Sept.  6,  1864. 
Gov.  Pickering,  Olympia,  W.  T. : 

Your  patriotic  dispatch  of  yesterday  received  and  will  be 
published.  *  '  A.  LINCOLN. 

For  the  first  term  of  school  contract  was  made  this  year 
with  J.  P.  Judson ;  for  the  two  succeeding  terms  with  D.  J. 
Hubbard  as  principal. 

Olympia  celebrated  with  great  patriotic  fervor  the  news 
which  reached  the  West  of  the  success  of  the  Union  armies. 
The  news  of  Lincoln's  assassination  was  received  here,  as  else- 
where throughout  the  United  States,  with  sincere  grief. 

In  the  Summer  of  1865  the  wagon  road  across  the  Cascade 
IMountains  was  completed.  This  had  long  been  a  dream  of  the 
jjioneers  on  both  sides  of  the  mountains.  Thurston  County  had 
contributed  $800  toward  the  project  and  every  means  was 
resorted  to  to  help  the  project.  Even  the  ladies  of  Olympia  had 
put  their  hands  to  the  wheel,  and  on  July  4  gave  a  Calico  Ball, 
turning  the  proceeds,  $120,  over  to  the  road  project. 

At  the  election  this  year  Thurston  County  polled  362  votes, 
Denny  (Republican)  for  delegate  to  Congress,  receiving  220 
votes,  and  Tilton  (Democrat)  142. 

The  entire  Republican  County  ticket  was  elected  as  follows: 
Councilman,  S.  S.  Ford ;  Representatives,  Wm.  McLain,  G.  W. 
Miller,  S.  D.  Ruddell ;  Commissioners,  A.  Tilley,  W.  S.  Parsons ; 
School  Superintendent,  D.  R.  Bigelow ;  Coroner,  Robert  Frost. 

Schuyler  Colfax,  Speaker  of  the  National  House  of  Repre- 
sentatives, visited  the  Sound  in  July  of  this  year  and  addressed 
the  people  of  Olympia. 


THURSTON    COUNTY  45 

The  close  of  the  war  found  the  business  affairs  of  the 
Sound  region  in  good  condition.  Demand  for  lumber  was  actiw 
iit  good  prices. 

Up  to  this  time  the  male  population  had  far  exceeded 
the  female  in  number.  In  view  of  this  fact  A.  S.  INIercer  con- 
ceived the  idea  of  chartering  a  vessel  and  bringing  to  the  Sound 
a  large  number  of  women.  On  receiving  notice  from  ]\Iercer 
that  the  ship  Continental  was  soon  to  leave  Boston,  with  a  large 
passenger  list,  Olympia  appointed  a  committee,  consisting  of 
Elwood  Evans  and  wife,  D.  R.  Bigelow  and  wife,  T.  F.  ^IcElroy 
and  wife,  T.  ]\I.  Reed  and  wife,  Francis  Henry  and  wife,  George 
Barnes  and  wife,  James  Biles  and  wife,  Henry  Winsor  and  wife, 
to  receive  and  provide  for  the  newcomers.  Homes  in  the 
County  were  found  for  80,  of  the  300  that  arrived. 

Panic  struck  the  lumber  industry,  owing  to  a  decision  of 
a  California  Court  that  the  export  of  lumber  and  spars  cut 
from  U.  S.  lands  must  be  taxed  $2.50  per  M. 

Tax  levy  this  year:    Four  mills  for  County,  2  for  School  and 
2y2  mills  for  road  purposes. 

Owing  to  a  lack  of  funds  no  public  schools  opened  this 
year.  For  the  purpose  of  running  a  private  school,  IMisses 
Giddings  and  Slocum  leased  the  school  house. 

Town  Trustees  elected  this  year:  Chas.  Weed,  U.  E.  Hicks, 
J.  R.  Wood,  B.  F.  Yantis,  Robt.  Frost.  U.  E.  Hicks  was  elected 
Treasurer;  R.  Lane,  Clerk;  W.  J.  Yeager,  ]\Iarshal. 

This  Board  levied  a  tax  for  school  purposes  of  IV)  mills 
and  purchased  a  hand  fire  engine. 

Three  tickets  were  put  in  the  field  at  the  election  in  1866. 
The  split  in  the  Republican  party  was  due  to  the  disaffection 
between  President  Johnson   and  Congress. 

Change  in  the  Republican  party  resulted  in  the  election 
of  the  Democratic  ticket  with  the  exception  of  Henness  for 
Sheriff.  The  following  County  officers  were  elected:  Repre- 
sentatives, Jas.  Longmire,  B.  F.  Ruth,  F.  Henry;  Sheriff,  J.  H. 
Kellett;  Auditor,  P.  F.  Turpin  ;  Probate  Judge,  C.  P.  Judson ; 
Treasurer,  I.  Lightner;  Commissioner,  R.  Waddell. 

The  faithful  old  town  pump  gave  away  to  a  water  system 
that  was  installed  this  year. 

The  County  Commissioners  appropriated  $800  toward  the 
Swantown   bridge,   and   provided   bounties   for   the   following 


46  HISTORICAL    SKETCH 

animals:  AVildcat  $1,  Coyote  $2.50,  Wolf  $4,  Cougar  $5,  grown 
Bear  $2,  Cub  $1. 

S.  S.  Ford,  Sr.,  who  was  a  joint  Councilman  with  Lewis 
County,  died  this  year.  In  the  election  to  fill  the  vacancy  Wm. 
H.  Mitchell  defeated  Geo.  A.  Barnes  by  23  votes. 

On  December  20,  1866,  the  stores  at  the  lower  end  of  Main 
Street,  were  flooded  by  the  highest  tide  that  had  been  known 
up  to  that  time. 

Columbia  Fire  Engine  Company  was  organized  this  year 
and  formally  took  possession  of  the  new  hand  engine.  A.  J. 
Baldwin  was  foreman. 

Town  Trustees  elected  this  year:  Geo.  A.  Barnes,  T.  M. 
Reed,  Isaac  Lightner,  B.  Harned,  A.  J.  Baldwin.  T.  M.  Reed 
was  elected  Treasurer  and  Richard  Lane,  Clerk. 

L.  P.  Venen  was  this  year  elected  principal  of  the  district 
school. 

An  exciting  County  election  occurred  in  1861  and  resulted 
in  the  selection  of  the  following  officers :  Wm.  McLane, 
Councilman ;  F.  Henry,  Ira  Ward  and  J.  E.  Baker,  Representa- 
tives ;  J.  H.  Kellett,  Sheriff ;  A.  W.  Cairnes,  J.  M.  Shotwell  and 
Jas.  Dunlap,  Commissioners;  P.  Turpin,  Auditor;  I.  Lightner^ 
Treasurer;  D.  R.  Bigelow,  Probate  Judge  and  School  Superin- 
tendent. 

Jas.  Longmire  contested  the  election  of  McLane  for  the 
Council,  which  was  again  referred  to  the  people,  and  Islr.  Long- 
mire lost. 

In  November  of  this  year  E.  T.  Gunn  and  J.  N.  Gale,  com- 
menced the  publication  of  the  Olympia  Transcript,  as  a  Re- 
publican paper,  the  Washington  Standard  having  been  drawn 
into  the  Democratic  field  during  the  political  evolutions  now 
taking  place.  The  Pacific  Tribune  was  also  established  by 
Chas.  Prosch  &  Sons. 

The  Town  Trustees  serving  this  year  were :  F.  Henrj', 
G.  A.  Barnes,  Albert  Robb,  J.  G.  Parker,  J.  M.  Hawk. 

On  November  15  occurred  the  death  of  M.  T.  Simmons, 
who  lived  in  Lewis  County.  His  death  was  mourned  as  a  great 
loss.  He  had  been  identified  with  the  history  of  the  Sound 
country  from  the  first,  and  was  highly  regarded  as  an  upright 
citizen. 


THURSTON   COUNTY  47 

A  contract  was  awarded  to  E.  L.  Finch  to  build  a  new 
Swantown  bridge. 

Coal  Bank  precinct  was  re-created  this  year,  the  population 
of  the  southeast  corner  of  the  County  having  increased  to 
justify  it. 

The  session  of  the  Legislature  of  1868  was  a  most  acri- 
monious one.  Personal  altercations  within  and  without  the 
legislative  halls  made  a  very  lively  town  out  of  the  Capital. 
then  a  village  of  500.  So  bitter  was  the  feeling  that  personal 
encounters  were  frequent  in  the  saloons  and  about  the  town 
of  Olympia. 

The  Marshville  bridge  to  the  Westside  was  completed 
this  year. 

L.  P.  Venen  was  elected  principal  of  the  district  school, 
assisted  by  I\Iisses  Slocum  and  ]\Iary  O'Neal  as  assistants. 

Town  Trustees  were  elected  to  serve  for  the  year  as  fol- 
lows: G.  K.  Barnes,  Wm.  Mitchell,  C.  E.  Williams,  Benj. 
Hamed,  C.  H.  Hale.  Richard  Lane  was  elected  Clerk  and  Mr. 
Williams,  Treasurer. 

The  County  Commissioners  this  year  discovered  that  they 
were  being  systematically  robbed  by  the  wily  Indians,  who 
were  taking  animal  scalps  wherever  they  might  be  found  and 
cashing  in  over  Thurston  County's  counter.  The  practice  was 
stopped  by  rigid  regulations. 

At  the  August  term  the  County  Commissioners  ordered  the 
Auditor  to  advertise  for  bids  for  a  two-story  jail. 

The  historical  old  blockhouse  on  the  corner  of  the  public 
square  was  razed  this  year  and  the  lumber  in  it  put  upon  the 
streets. 

At  the  organization  of  the  Territory  there  was  established 
at  Olympia  as  the  Capital  a  Territorial  library,  for  which  Con- 
gress had  made  an  appropriation.  But  the  first  town  library 
was  established  in  1869.  On  January  1,  1869,  D.  B.  Finch,  a 
wealthy  steamboat  man,  commanding  the  old  Eliza  Anderson, 
running  between  Olympia  and  Victoria,  donated  to  the  Lodge 
of  Good  Templars  of  this  city  what  was  then  known  as  the 
Olympic  building  on  the  site  now  occupied  by  the  K.  of  P.  hall, 
on  condition  that  the  Lodge  w^ould  maintain  a  library  and  free 
reading  room.  The  conditions  were  complied  with  and  the  first 
town   library   opened   July   19th.     The   first  librarian   to   take 


48  HISTORICAL    SKETCH 

charge  was  John  B.  Allen,  a  young  attorney  just  from 
]\Iinnesota,  who  was  one  of  the  first  U.  S.  Senators  from  the 
State  of  "Washington.  IMr.  Allen,  telling  his  early  experiences, 
related  that  the  Lodge,  having  defaulted  in  part  of  his  salary, 
he  was  given  an  old  silver  watch,  in  lieu  thereof.  In  a  trip 
down  the  hay  later  Mr.  Allen  met  with  an  accident  and  the  old 
watch  went  to  the  bottom  of  Budd's  Inlet.  Thus,  the  librarian 
was  illy  recompensed  for  his  labors. 

As  an  indication  of  real  estate  values  it  might  be  stated 
that  in  February.  1869,  C.  J.  Allen  sold  five  acres  of  land  adjoin- 
ing the  Capital  grounds  for  .^5000.  This  is  now  known  as  the 
^Tottman  addition. 

Early  this  year  Wm.  Billings  took  the  contract  to  build  a 
timV)er  jail  16x20.  two  cells,  on  the  County  property.  Union 
(Mid  Washington.  Streets. 

In  iVugust  1869  Rabbeson  &  Clark  were  awarded  a  contract 
to  build  a  Town  Hall  on  Fourth  Street,  between  Washington 
and  Franklin.  The  building  was  completed  November  26,  and 
dedicated  by  ball  and  supper.  The  ground  floor  rooms  were 
occupied  for  municipal  purposes,  while  a  hall,  with  ante  room 
above,  was  utilized  for  many  years  as  ball  room,  theater,  etc. 
With  other  relics  of  the  past  the  Town  Hall,  so  familiar  to  the 
"old  timer,"  is  no  more,  as  such,  but  has  passed  into  private 
hands,  and  was  recently  torn  down. 

In  the  Spring  of  1869  the  Columbia  River  and  Puget  Sound 
Railroad  Company  desired  a  terminus  on  Puget  Sound.  A  com- 
mittee, composed  of  0.  B.  McFadden,  C.  H.  Hale,  Joseph  Cush- 
man,  S.  D.  Howe,  James  Biles,  G.  AV.  French,  H.  Hartley, 
Clanrick  Crosby,  A.  J.  Chambers,  W.  H.  Mitchell,  C.  C.  Hewitt, 
P.  D.  Moore  and  J.  H.  Cleale  w^ere  appointed  to  solicit  for 
donations  of  land  to  induce  the  company  to  locate  its  terminus 
on  Budd's  Inlet. 

Society  at  the  Capital  city  was  revolutionized  after  the 
inauguration  of  President  Grant.  As  many  of  the  inhabitants 
of  the  small  community  were  Federal  employes,  the  new  ap- 
pointments made  many  changes. 

At  the  County  election  in  1869  the  full  Republican  ticket 
was  elected,  as  follows :  Councilman,  J.  Scammons ;  Representa- 
tives, L.  A.  Treen,  W.  Packwood;  Commissioners,  G.  A.  Barnes, 
C.  Crosby,  S.  Hodgdon;  Sheriff,  Wm.  Billings;  Treasurer,  B. 


THURSTON    COUNTY  49 

Bettman;  Auditor,  A.  A.  Philips;  Probate  Judge,  D.  R.  Bigelow  ; 
School  Superintendent,  D.  R.  Bigelow;  Surveyor,  F.  W.  Brown; 
Coroner,  C.  Wood. 

Thurston  County  had  increased  her  assessed  valuati3n  in 
the  last  year  by  $123,267  and  was  $911,129. 

The  Commissioners  appropriated  $1000  for  a  bridge  across 
the  inlet  to  Tumwater.  This  amaunt  was  increased  by  private 
subscription  to  $326G. 

The  grovv'th  of  the  town  now  made  an  imperative  demand 
for  a  definite  location  of  streets  and  the  Council  so  ordered. 
Cattle  were  restrained  from  running  at  large  and  a  tax  of  $2.50 
was  put  upon  each  dog. 

There  was  considerable  building  activity  this  year  and  saw 
mills  were  kept  busy  meeting  the  demand. 

The  first  bank  building  to  be  erected  in  the  Territory  of 
Washington  was  commenced  this  year  by  G.  A.  Barnes,  who 
for  several  years  conducted  a  banking  business  here. 

The  Town  Trustees  this  year  were  G.  A.  Barnes,  F.  Henry, 
S.  W.  Percival,  H.  Frost,  J.  M.  Murphy ;  S.  W.  Percival  Treas- 
urer; R.  Lane,  Clerk. 

Jacob  Hoover  was  principal  of  the  public  school  this  year, 
assisted  by  Jlary  O'Neil.  ^Ir.  Hoover  later  practiced  law,  an  1 
became  a  wealthy  capitalist  of  Spokane. 

The  Federal  census  of  1870  showed  a  populati  -n  of  1203 
for  Olympia  and  2246  in  the  County.  Tumwater  contained  206. 
By  way  of  comparison  it  may  here  be  stated  that  at  this  time 
Seattle  contained  1142,  with  2164  inhabitants  in  King  County. 
Olympia  had  a  public  school  of  75  pupils,  taught  by  two 
teachers;  fully  75  more  pupils  were  taug'it  in  private  schools. 

March  1,  1870,  the  town  paid  the  County  $1333  for  the 
public  square,  which  the  town  had  deeded  to  the  County  in  the 
early  days,  when  the  County  seat  question  was  agitated.  Al- 
though the  deed  then  given  was  invalid  this  settlement  was 
reached,  and  the  amount  paid  to  assist  the  County  in  building 
a  Courthouse  at  the  corner  of  Washington  and  Sixth  Streets. 

At  the  Town  election  in  April  the  following  Trustees  were 
elected:  F.  Henry,  A.  A.  Phillips,  B.  Bettman,  C.  C.  Hewitt, 
Levi  Shelton. 

At  the  County  election  the  following  were  chosen :  Council- 
man,   L.    P.    Smith ;    Representatives,    D.    R.    Bigelow,     B.     L. 


50  HISTORICAL    SKETCH 

Brewer,  ^Campbell ;  Sheriff,  \Ym.  Billings  ;  Auditor,  A.  A.  Phil- 
lips; Commissioners,  Wm.  McLane,  Ira  Ward,  Wm.  James; 
Treasurer,  L.  G.  Abbott;  Assessor,  W.  M.  "White;  Probate 
Judge,  A.  R.  Elder;  School  Superintendent,  D.  R.  Bigelow. 

C.  Etheridge  this  year  commenced  operating  a  sash  and 
door  factory  between  Second  and  Third  streets,  near  the 
West  end  of  Swantown  bridge. 

The  prospects  of  the  location  of  the  Northern  Pacific 
Railroad  terminus  at  Olympia  was  the  cause  of  considerable 
real  estate  activity  in  1870.  In  April  T.  I.  McKenny  and  Geo. 
Barnes  platted  the  town  site  of  Puget  City,  this  County. 
Later  the  plat  was  vacated. 

C.  B.  Mann  was  chosen  principal  of  the  district  school 
this  year. 

A  franchise  was  granted  to  the  Washington  Water  Pipe 
Manufacturing  Company  to  lay  pipe  and  supply  the  inhabi- 
tants with  water. 

Wm.  H.  Cushman  was  elected  Town  Clerk  to  fill  a  vacancy. 

The  Barnes  Hook  &  Ladder  Company  w^as  organized  to 
supplement  the  Fire  Company. 

In  September  of  this  year,  Olympia  and  vicinity  was 
visited  by  the  most  violent  earthquake  ever  experienced  here 
before  or  since.  The  fact  that  the  prevailing  style  of  archi- 
tecture was  one  and  two-story  frame  buildings  saved  immense 
damage. 

This  year  the  citizens  of  Olympia  experienced  their  first 
disappointment  relative  to  the  location  of  the  Northern  Pa- 
cific terminus,  which  it  was  now  reported  would  be  located 
on  the  Columbia  River.  A  committee,  headed  by  E.  P.  Ferry, 
was  appointed  to  confer  with  the  railroad  officials  as  to  the 
best  terms  on  which  railroad  connection  could  be  had  at 
Olympia.     Little  wa,s  gained  by  the  conference. 

In  December,  1870,  Marshall  Blinn,  C.  H.  Hale,  A.  J. 
Miller,  James  Pattison,  E.  Marsh,  G.  A.  Barnes,  W.  H.  Mitchell, 
C.  Crosby,  J.  M.  Murphy  and  E.  P.  Ferry  organized  a  Com- 
pany with  a  capital  of  $400,000  capital  to  construct  a  branch 
of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad.  It  petitioned  for  1337  acres 
of  the  mud  flats  conditioned  that  the  Des  Chutes  channel 
should  be  opened.  It  was  the  intention  to  obtain  possession 
of  these  and  offer  them  to  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Com- 


Thurston  county  51 

pany  ou  condition  that  their  terminus  be  located  on  Budd's 
Inlet,  but  the  petition  did  not  receive  favorable  action  by 
Congress. 

In  1871  the  location  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  ter- 
minus was  the  paramount  question. 

The  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Company  had  been  ap- 
prised of  the  effort  to  secure  the  tide  lands  and  present  them 
to  the  Railroad  Company.  General  Sprague  of  the  Company 
replied  by  sending  blanks  necessary  for  making  the  donation 

The  Branch  Railroad  Company  recommended  that  the  citi- 
zen property  owners  on  Budd's  Inlet  donate  one-half  their 
holdings  to  the  Northern  Pacific  on  condition  that  it  would 
build  and  operate  a  railroad  into  Olympia  before  January  1, 
1875,  and  locate  the  road  before  May  1,  1872.  This  most  re- 
markable proposition  did  not  meet  with  great  favor  with  all 
classes,  many  feeling  that  if  the  Company  desired  to  come 
here  they  would  come  anyway;  if  not.  no  reasonable  bonus- 
would  be  an  inducement. 

Railroad  contractors  were  working  during  the  Summer 
in  the  Cowlitz  Valley,  and  expected  to  have  25  miles  built 
from  Kalama  by  October  2,  and  connection  made  with  the 
Sound  by  1872. 

By  November,  1871,  the  road  was  within  15  miles  of 
Olympia,  and  still  the  matter  of  terminus  was  an  uncertainty. 
On  Christmas  day  Olympia  citizens  experienced  great  relief 
when  a  communication  was  received  over  the  signatures  of 
Goodwin  and  Sprague  by  Marshal  Blinn  accepting  the  propo- 
sition of  the  Branch  Railroad  Company,  stating  that  the 
Northern  Pacific  Company  would  comply  with  the  first  con- 
dition by  causing  a  railroad  to  be  located  before  May  1  next, 
connecting  the  Columbia  river  with  a  point  on  the  navigable 
waters  of  Budd's  Inlet.  They  also  asked  a  right  of  way  from 
Bush  Prairie.  This  seemed  to  the  expectant  citizens  of  Olym- 
pia that  Budd's  Inlet  was  to  be  the  Western  terminus  of  the 
Northern  Pacific  Railroad.  To  many  then  living  this  seemed 
a  realization  of  their  fondest  hopes  which  they  had  enter- 
tained since  they  emigrated  here  in  the  early  '50 's.  Their 
real  estate  holdings  were  to  assume  a  value  that  meant  to 
them  a  competence.  And,  indeed,  on  this  vague  promise  real 
estate  did  go  to  fabulous  values,  but  little  changed  hands. 


52  HISTORICAL    SKETCH 

Building  in  and  about  Olympia  was  reasonably  active, 
and  consideraUle  progress  was  made  along  the  line  of  general 
improvement.  At  Tumwater  D.  Barnhart  had  installed  a 
lurnitiire  factory,  and  Leonard  &  Cooper  were  also  operating 
a  sash  and  door  factory  at  the  same  place.  To  add  to  the 
general  tension  of  expectancy,  the  usual  report  of  discovery 
of  gold  in  the  Black  Hills  became  current. 

In  December,  Geo.  A.  Barnes,  Ben  Harned  and  A.  H, 
Stelle  were  elected  School  Directors.    N.  Crosby   Clerk. 

A  farmers'  organization  was  effected  this  year  for  the 
purpose  of  the  advancement  of  agricultural  interests,  though 
it  was  short  lived. 

On  the  death  of  Wm.  James,  County  Commissioner,  G. 
W.  French  was  chosen  to  fill  the  vacancy. 

In  this  year  Mrs.  Case  and  Miss  Churchill,  two  Eastern 
ladies,  leased  the  old  Court  House  on  Union  and  Washington 
Streets  and  started  a  Young  Ladies'  Seminary. 

During  the  Summer  of  1871,  a  newspaper  plant  was 
brought  from  Port  Townsend  and  the  Puget  Sound  Courier 
was  started.     This  was  the  organ  of  the  Federal  officeholders. 

Town  Trustees  this  year:  F.  Henry,  S.  W.  Percival,  John 
M.  Murphy,  A.  H.  Steele. 

Mr.  Boynton,  assisted  by  Miss  Mary  O'Xeil  and  Mary 
Post  taught  the  public  school. 

Owing  to  the  still  prevailing  hope  that  Olympia  would  be 
a  railroad  terminus,  the  year  1872  opened  up  with  much  ac- 
tivity. Streets  and  bridges  were  improved,  a  fire  alarm  sys- 
tem installed ;  while  building  was  active  rents  were  very  high. 

The  fact  that  a  man  named  Ira  Bradley  Thomas  was  in 
Olympia  buying  up  land  seemed  significant.  In  fact,  he  had 
secured  title  to  several  thousand  acres  on  the  East  side  of  the 
inlet.     While  still  in  pursuit  of  his  business  he  died  suddenly 

In  this  year  occurred  the  revolt  against  the  so-calletl 
Federal  ring.  Selucius  Garfield,  a  man  of  splendid  ability  and 
a  magnificent  orator,  on  the  Republican  ticket,  was  defeated 
for  Delegate  to  Congress  by  0.  B.  McFadden,  on  the  Peoples' 
ticket. 

The  full  People's  Party  County  ticket  was  elected  as  fol- 
lows: Councilman,  Wm.  McLain ;  Representatives,  B.  F.  Yan- 
tis,  Ira  Ward,  Frank  Henry;  Auditor,  A.  A.  Phillips;  Sheriff, 


THURSTON    COUNTY  53 

Wm.  Billings;  Treasurer,  W.  J.  Grainger;  Surveyor,  D.  S. 
B.  Kenry;  School  Superintendent,  C.  A.  Huntington;  Pro- 
bate Judge,  J.  M.  Lowe;  Coroner,  I.  V.  Mossman. 

A  vote  on  the  question  for  a  State  Constitution  was  de- 
feated. 54  to  141. 

The  Burmeister  building,  on  Third  and  Main,  was  built 
this  year. 

At  the  municipal  election  the  following  officers  were 
elected:  Mayor,  W.  W.  Miller;  Councilmen — First  Ward,  A. 
J.  Burr,  B.  Bettman ;  Second  Ward,  M.  Blinn,  T.  F.  McElroy , 
Third  Ward,  J.  S.  Dobbins,  D.  S.  B.  Henry;  A.  A.  Phillips, 
Clerk ;  E.  W.  Eyerson,  Treasurer ;  A.  E.  Elder,  Magistrate ; 
J.  J.  Westbrook,  Marshal. 

On  December  14th,  of  this  year,  Olympia  and  vicinity  v/as 
visited  bj'  a  severe  earthquake,  resulting  in  little  actual 
damage. 

As  the  year  1872  drew  to  a  close  it  became  evident,  even 
to  the  most  sanguine,  that  the  Northern  Pacific  Eailroad  Com- 
pany was  not  going  to  keep  faith  with  Olympia,  but  proposed 
to  locate  the  terminus  of  its  road  at  a  point  lower  down  on 
the  Sound.  As  the  time  had  arrived  for  some  evidence  of  good 
faith.  Marshal  Blinn  wrote  to  ]\Iessrs.  Goodwin  and  Sprague, 
asking  when  the  line  would  be  located.  They  replied:  "The 
line  of  railroad  runs  to  the  East  side  of  Budd's  Inlet  to  the 
Billings  or  Wylie  donation  claim,  sections  25,  26,  35,  36,  town- 
ship 19,  range  2  West,  and  a  point  will  be  selected  on  one  of 
these  claims  for  a  freight  and  passenger  depot,  where  said 
line  will  terminate." 

This  restored  confidence  for  a  time  until  it  was  evident 
the  road  was  being  continued  through  Yelm  toward  Tacoma 

The  following  statement  may  serve  to  throw  some  light 
on  the  inside  history  of  the  location  of  the  terminus  of  the 
first  transcontinental  line  to  reach  the  Northwest. 

Included  in  the  directorate  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Eail- 
road Company  were  men  who  composed  the  Lake  Superior 
and  Puget  Sound  Land  Company.  They  were  suff'iciently 
strong  in  the  railroad  company  to  dictate  its  policy.  The 
railroad  company  was  not  interested  in  town  sites ;  the  land 
company  was — ^so  they  had  sent  a  man  West  to  secure  title 
to   lands   at   the   prospective   terminus.     That   man    was    Ira 


54  HISTORICAL    SKETCH 

Bradley  Thomas,  before  ineuti;.ned.  After  havinj?  secured 
title  to  large  tracts  on  Budd's  Inlet  he  died.  Thus,  consid- 
ering the  time  that  would  be  consumed  in  probating  the 
estate  of  i\Ir.  Thomas,  with  the  law's  delays,  this  land  was 
withdrawn  from  the  market  indefinitely.  Time  was  all  in  all. 
The  result  was  that  in  order  to  realize  their  financial  expecta- 
tions the  Lake  Superior  &  Puget  Sound  Land  Company  se- 
cured lands  a  few  miles  from  Old  Tacoma,  and  went  into  the 
Northern  Pacific  directorate!  and  located  the  terminus  of  the 
Northern  Pacific  Railroad. 

On  what  seeming  insignificant  circumstances  do  great 
things  depend.  Had  Ira  Bradley  Thomas  lived  but  even  a 
short  time  longer,  in  all  probability  Olympia  would  have  been 
the  terminus  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad,  and  the  site 
of  the  present  City  of  Tacoma  still  a  wilderness. 

******* 

Thus,  briefly  sketched,  is  the  history  of  Thurston  County. 
First,  as  a  part  of  the  Territory  of  Oregon,  and  later  an 
integral  part  of  the  fast-growing  Territory  of  Washington. 
It  was  the  intention  of  the  compiler  of  this  volume  to  trace 
merely  the  pioneer  history  of  the  County.  The  line  of  demark- 
ation  between  early  history  and  the  later  was  arbitrarily  fixed 
by  the  Society  of  Thurston  Countj^  Pioneers,  which  made  eligi- 
ble those  who  had  taken  up  residence  in  the  County  before 
1872.  Though  the  people  who  came  to  Washington  Territory 
in  the  early  70 's  seem  as  "Che  Chacos"  to  the  pioneers  of 
'49  or  '50,  yet  the  line  as  fixed  by  the  Society  seems  a  con- 
servative placing  of  time  to  mark  the  difference  between  old 
and  new.  The  laying  of  the  foundation,  by  a  few  sturdy 
pioneers,  of  a  great  commonw^ealth  to  be,  who,  after  a  life  full 
of  privation  and  hardship,  were  laid  to  rest  in  the  soil  of  the 
new  country,  giving  way  to  a  young  and  sturdy  race  of  new 
comers,  no  longer  "pioneers"  but  "early  settlers,"  until  the 
year  1872  arrived,  which  closed  the  door,  and  all  later  ar- 
rivals must  fall  under  the  head  of  "Che  Chacos." 

From  1873  to  1889,  that  period  during  w^hich  Washington 
remained  a  Territory,  Olympia  and  Thurston  County  made  slow 
progress.  The  location  of  a  railroad  terminus  at  Tacoma  de- 
tracted greatly  from  the  head  of  the  Sound.     Seattle  made  a 


THURSTON  COUNTY  55 

start  and  has  experienced  a  phenomenal  growth,  which  in  a 
way,  too,  affected  Olympia. 

However,  since  admission  of  the  Territory  as  a  State  in 
1889,  Olympia  and  Thurston  County  has  experienced  a  steady 
improvement.  The  ability  to  command  some  attention  in  Con- 
gress, has  resulted  in  appropriations  for  the  improvement  of 
the  harbor,  which  has  alwaj's  been  a  deterring  influence. 
Notwithstanding  frequent  attempts  to  move  the  Capitol,  it 
seems  at  last  a  fixture,  the  State's  investments  here  preclud- 
ing the  possibility  of  a  change.  But  what  is  of  greater  im- 
portance, the  difficulties  of  transportation  in  and  out  of 
Olympia  have  to  a  great  extent  been,  or  are  being,  overcome. 
The  Northern  Pacific,  after  years  of  neglect,  saw  a  territory 
in  the  Southwest  that  could  no  longer  be  ignored  and  the 
Tacoma  and  Grays  Harbor  branch  of  that  road  resulted.  At 
this  writing  the  Oregon  &  AYashington  Railway  is  making 
preparations  to  connect  the  Capital  City  with  their  line,  with 
further  possibilities  of  transcontinental  connection  in  the  near 
future. 

Substantial  fireproof  buildings  are  taking  the  place  of 
the  old  frames,  paved  streets  are  being  actively  extended  and 
a  spirit  of  enterprise  has  been  the  result  of  the  advent  of  the 
new  blood  that  is  to  take  up  the  fight  where  the  pioneer,  after 
a  hard  fought  battle,  for  which  his  successors  delight  to  honor 
his  memorv,  laid  down  his  burden  and  entered  into  his  rest. 


56  THURSTON  COUNTY 


Qtmmannns 


ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 


Isaac  I.  Stevens,  the  first  Governor,  as  well  as  the  m:)s: 
prominent  man  identified  w^ith  the  early  history  of  Washing- 
ton, was  born  in  a  farm  house  belonging  to  his  father,  Isaac 
Stevens,  at  ^Marble  Ridge,  Massachusetts.  He  first  saw  the 
light  of  day  March  25,  1818,  and  sprang  from  an  honorable 
line  of  ancestry,  one  of  whom,  John  Stevens,  was  among  the 
original  founders  of  Andover,   Essex   County,   jMassachusetts. 

Even  from  tender  infancy  the  little  Isaac  gave  promise  of 
more  than  ordinary  mentality.  Before  his  fifth  year  t'le  lad 
was  sent  to  school  and  soon  astonished  his  teacher  with  his 
remarkable  power  of  memory  and  his  application  and  devotion 
to  study.  After  his  tenth  year  he  attended  Franklin  Academy' 
in  North  Andover,  where  he  studied  t'.ie  usual  English  branches. 
But  about  this  time  Isaac  decided  to  leave  school  for  a  time  to 
enter  the  woolen  mills  owned  by  his  uncle  near  Andover.  At 
the  end  of  a  year  spent  in  the  weaving  room  he  became  so 
proficient  in  his  work  that  he  was  able  to  manage  four  looms 
at  a  time,  thus  excelling  the  most  experienced  workmen  in  that 
department  of  the  factory. 

Having  reached  the  age  of  fifteen  years  the  young  Stevens 
entered  Phillips  Academy  in  Andover.  Here,  while  leading 
his  classes  in  his  studies,  he  paid  for  his  board  and  lodging 
by  making  the  garden  and  doing  the  chores  about  the  place 
of  a  citizen  of  that  town. 

One  of  his  school  mates  in  describing  Stevens'  first  ap- 
pearance at  the  academy  said:  "The  door  opened  and  there 
({uietly  entered  an  insignificant  appearing  boy  carrying  in  his 
arms  a  load  of  books  nearly  as  large  as  himself.  But  the  im- 
pression of  insigiiificance  vanished  as  soon  as  one  regarded  his 


o 
o 
< 

w 


03 

> 

D 

m 
w 
w 
"^ 

H 

W 

o 

a 

1-^ 


PIONEER   REMINISCENCES  57 

large   head,    earnest    face    and    firm    and    fearless    dark    h;)zel 
eyes. ' ' 

After  a  little  over  a  year  at  this  academy,  through  his 
excellent  record  for  ability  and  scholarship,  as  well  as  the 
recommendations  and  efforts  of  his  uncle,  William  Stevens, 
Isaac  was  appointed  a  cadet  at  West  Point. 

Here  he  distinguished  himself  by  rising  to  the  head  of  his 
class  in  mathematics  and  during  the  entire  four  years'  course 
so  well  did  the  young  man  bear  himself  that  when  the  academic 
board  came  to  review  the  standings  of  the  memDers  of  the 
class  to  award  to  each  his  proper  grade  it  was  found  that 
Cadet  Stevens  stood  at  the  head  in  every  one  of  his  studies. 
Upon  graduation  Stevens  was  promoted  to  be  Second 
Lieutenant  of  Engineers  and  was  ordered  to  proceed  to 
Newport,  R.  I.,  to  take  part  in  the  building  of  Fort 
Adams.  At  Newport  the  social  life  was  much  enjoyed  by  the 
young  man,  and  it  was  while  at  a  social  gathering  at  this 
town  that  Lieutenant  Stevens  met  the  young  lady  who  was 
afterwards  to  become  his  wife,  Margaret  Lyman  Hazard.  On 
July  1,  1840,  Stevens  received  promotion  to  be  First  Lieutenant 
of  the  corps  of  engineers.  His  marriage  to  Miss  Hazard  occurred 
in  September  of  the  year  following.  Soon  after  his  marriage 
Lieutenant  Stevens  was  sent  to  Bedford  to  take  charge  of  the 
repairs  to  the  old  fort  there.  And  on  June  9.  1842,  a  son 
was  born  to  the  young  couple.  This  child  was  named  Hazard, 
after  the  maternal  grandfather. 

For  the  ensuing  few  years  Lieutenant  Stevens  was  in 
charge  of  engineering  works  at  Portsmouth  and  later  at  Bucks- 
port,  Maine,  and  it  was  while  engaged  in  this  work  that  he 
received  his  orders  for  service  in  the  Mexican  war.  Stevens' 
first  work  upon  arriving  at  the  seat  of  war  was  to  seek  out 
covered  ways  to  allow  the  troops  to  pass  to  and  from  the  bat- 
teries at  Vera  Cruz  without  loss  from  the  enemies'  fire. 

After  taking  this  city  by  the  IT.  S.  soldiers,  Stevens  ac- 
companied the  troops  into  the  interior  of  ]\Ie.xico  and  was  made 
Adjutant  of  the  Corps  of  Engineers.  At  the  battle  of  Chapul- 
tepec  a  severe  gunshot  wound  in  the  foot  required  his  retiring 
from  active  service  for  the  rest  of  the  campaign.  He  was 
finally  relieved  and  returned  to  the  States. 

Again  was  he  put  in  charge  of  military  works  at  various 


58  THURSTON  COUNTY 

places  in  ]\Iaine  and  New  Hampshire,  continuing  here  for  the 
next  five  years. 

When  the  brevets  were  announced  from  the  war  depart- 
ment Lieutenant  Stevens  was  brevetted  Captain,  August  2. 
1847,  for  gallant  and  meritorious  conduct  in  the  battles  of 
Contreras  and  Churubusco  and  Major  for  gallant  and  meritor- 
ious conduct  in  the  battle  of  Chapultepec. 

]\Iajor  Stevens  from  now  on  for  the  following  few  years 
was  engaged  as  assistant  to  Professor  A.  D.  Boche,  chief  of 
the  United  States  Coast  survey.  But  in  the  Spring  of  1853, 
President  Franklin  Pierce  appointed  Major  Stevens  Governor 
of  the  newly  organized   Territory  of  Washington. 

Save  for  a  handful  of  settlers  on  the  lower  Columbia  and 
on  the  shores  of  Puget  Sound,  and  a  few  mining  and  trading 
posts  in  the  interior,  the  whole  vast  region  of  Stevens'  place 
of  administration  Avas  unsettled  and  for  the  most  part  unex- 
plored by  civilized  man.  It  contained  man}'  thousand  Indians 
who  regarded  the  settlement  of  the  territory  by  the  white  man 
with  jealous  eyes;  the  Indian  title  to  the  lands  had  not  been 
extinguished  and  there  were  many  troublous  questions  to  be 
settled  with  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  which  still  held  its  posts 
in  the  territory  and  claimed  extensive  rights  as  guaranteed 
by  treaty. 

To  govern  a  territory  under  these  conditions  would  have 
appalled  most  men,  but  Major  Stevens  not  only  applied  for  the 
appointment  as  Governor,  but  also  asked  that  he  be  placed  in 
charge  of  the  exploration  of  the  most  feasible  route  for  the 
railroad  from  the  JMississippi  River  to  the  Pacific  Coast.  Con- 
gress had  recently  appropriated  $150,000  for  the  explorative 
survey  of  the  proposed  railroad. 

AVhen  the  appointment  as  Governor  to  Washington  Terri- 
tory was  confirmed,  IMajor  Stevens  was  36  years  of  age  and  in 
the  full  prime  and  vigor  of  his  manhood.  Besides  the  stupen- 
dous task  involved  in  the  administration  as  chief  executive  in 
a  new  and  unknown  territory,  with  surroundings  and  experi- 
ences totally  different  from  any  he  had  met  in  previous  ex- 
periences, Governor  Stevens  was  also,  by  virtue  of  his  appoint- 
ment, made  Superintendent  of  Indian  affairs  in  the  West. 
Surely  the  reader  must  be  impressed  with  the  courage  and 
mental  strength  exhibited  by  Isaac  I.  Stevens  in  undertaking 
these  duties  and  responsibilities,  in  addition  to  the  formidible 


PIONEER    REMINISCENCES  59 

undertaking  of  exploring  a  railroad  route  to  the  Pacific  Coast, 
through  a  totally  unknown  wilderness.  How  ably  he  re- 
sponded to  the  demands  laid  upon  him  is  a  matter  of  history. 

Assembling  an  outfit  at  St.  Paul,  Minnesota,  in  which  task 
Governor  Stevens  was  called  upon  to  overcome  what  to  many 
would  have  been  unsurmountable  difficulties,  the  exploring 
party  started  for  the  far  off  Pacific  Coast.  A  history  of  this 
famous  exploring  trip,  compiled  by  the  Governor's  son.  Hazard 
Stevens,  from  the  diary  kept  by  his  illustrious  father,  reads 
like  a  romance  of  adventure,  so  many  exciting  experiences 
were  encountered  and  so  many  hardships  and  dangers  suc- 
cessfully overcome. 

Arriving  at  the  Columbia  River,  Governor  Stevens  fol- 
lowed the  only  route  at  that  time  to  reach  Olympia,  the  capital 
of  the  new  Territory.  Up  the  Cowlitz  river  by  canoe,  where 
the  Indian  crew  had  to  progress  foot  by  foot  against  the  cur- 
rent of  the  flooded  river,  sometimes  pulling  the  frail  craft  along 
by  the  overhanging  bushes,  then  over  a  muddy  trail  by  horse 
back,  Stevens  reached  Olympia  November  25,  1853,  just  five 
months  and  nineteen  days  since  starting  from  St.  Paul. 

He  found  waiting  for  him  his  new  Territorial  Secretary, 
Charles  Mason ;  EdM'ard  Lander,  Chief  Justice ;  J.  V.  Clen- 
dennin,  District  Attorney;  J.  Patton  Anderson,  Marshal,  and 
Simpson  P.  Moses,  Collector  of  Customs. 

These  officials  had  reached  Olympia,  coming  via  the  Isth- 
mus to  San  Francisco,  then  by  boat  to  Portland,  and  then  up 
the  Cowlitz  River  and  over  the  trail. 

To  quote  from  Hazard  Stevens'  "Life  of  Isaac  I.  Stevens": 

"It  was  indeed  a  wild  country,  untouched  by  civilization. 
A  scanty  white  population  numbering  3,965,  were  widely  scat- 
tered over  Western  Washington  and  the  Strait  of  Fuca.  Among 
the  settlers  were  Columbus  Lancaster,  on  Lewis  River;  Seth 
Catlin,  Dr.  Nathanial  Ostrander  and  the  Huntingtons,  on  the 
Cowlitz;  Alexander  S.  Abernethy,  at  Oak  Point,  and  Judge 
William  Strong  at  Cathalamet." 

The  Governor's  first  act  was  to  issue  his  proclamation 
for  the  election  of  a  delegate  to  Congress  and  members  of  the 
first  Territorial  Legislature  and  summoning  that  body  to  meet 
in  Olympia  on  the  28th  of  February,  1854. 

His  next  official  act  was  to  visit  the  Indian  tribes  around 
the  Sound  and  to  generally  explore  the  waters  of  Puget  Sound, 


60  THURSTON  COUNTY 

Elliott  Bay  and  the  Straits,  to  learn  of  tlie  general  character 
of  the  harbors,  etc.  As  this  cruise  was  taken  in  an  open 
sailboat,  it  could  hardly  be  regarded  as  a  holiday  excursion 
in  that  stormy  season,  and  among  the  swift  tides  and  fierce 
gales  of  the  lower  Sound. 

One  of  the  objects  accomplished  on  this  cruise  was  the 
decision  that  the  little  settlement  of  Seattle  was  the  logical 
terminus  for  the  proposed  transcontinental  railroad. 

At  the  assembling  of  the  Legislature,  when  Governor 
Stevens  delivered  his  first  message,  after  reviewing  the  natural 
resources  of  this  territory,  he  recommended  the  adoption  of  a 
code  of  laws,  the  organization  of  the  country  east  of  the  Cas- 
cades into  counties,  a  school  system  with  military  training  in 
the  higher  schools  and  the  organization  of  the  militia. 

The  Legislature  adopted  all  these  resolutions  with  the 
exception  of  the  one  regarding  the  militia,  which  omission 
proved  to  be  unfortunate,  as  it  left  the  people  defenseless  when 
the  Indian  war  broke  out  less  than  two  years  later.  After  the 
close  of  the  Legislature  Governor  Stevens  returned  to  Wash- 
ington, D.  C.  to  make  his  report  to  the  Department  of  the  ex- 
ploring and  engineering  expedition,  and  also  to  urge  upon 
Congress  the  claims  of  the  new  territory. 

Completing  his  Avork  in  the  National  Capitol.  Governor 
and  Mrs.  Stevens,  with  their  four  children,  the  two  youngest 
being  only  two  and  four  years  old,  respectively,  sailed  from 
New  York,  September  20.  1854,  en  route  for  their  far  western 
homo. 

The  rough  experiences  of  this  refined  and  cultured  family 
in  coming  up  the  Cowlitz  and  over  the  trail  and  their  bitter 
disappointment  when  beholding  the  capital  city  is  graphically 
described  in  a  letter  written  by  I\Irs.  Stevens  and  reproduced 
in  the  historical  sketch  of  Thurston  County  in  the  opening 
chapters  of  this  volume. 

The  Governor's  family  were  installed  in  quarters  consist- 
ing of  tAvo  long,  one-story  buildings,  one  room  wide,  unplas- 
tered,  but  lined  inside  with  cotton  cloth.  In  the  rear  was  a 
large  yard  extending  to  the  beach.  An  Indian  camp  began  at 
the  corner  of  the  j^ard. 

In  the  midst  of  these  novel  scenes  and  experiences  the 
family  soon  began  to  feel  at  home  and  enjoy  the  western  life. 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  61 

The  Governor"'s  days  were  now  filled  with  strenuous  labor, 
making  treaties  with  the  Indians,  holding  council  with  the 
Chiefs  and  endeavoring  to  cultivate  their  good  will. 

A  history  of  the  various  treaties  entered  into  between  Gov- 
ernor Stevens  and  the  Indian  tribes,  the  councils  held  and  the 
long,  dangerous  and  fatiguing  expeditions  taken  by  the  Gov- 
ernor, would  more  than  fill  the  pages  of  this  volume,  conse- 
quently only  a  brief  mention  is  all  that  space  will  allow,  and 
that  of  the  most  important  ones. 

Governor  Stevens  was  in  the  Blackfoot  coiuitry  holding 
t'ouneil  with  the  assembled  bands  and  had  just  taken  up  his 
homeward  march  Avhen  a  messenger,  dispatched  by  Acting 
Governor  ]\Iason,  reached  him  with  the  startling  intelligence 
that  all  the  great  tribes  of  the  upper  Columbia  country,  includ- 
ing the  Cayuses,  Walla  Wallas,  Yakimas,  Palouses,  Umatillas. 
and  all  the  Oregon  Indian  bands  down  to  Tlie  Dalles,  had 
broken  out  in  open  warfare. 

Stevens  at  once,  and  with  incredible  difficulty,  hastened 
back  to  Washington,  and  after  doing  what  he  could  to  establish 
peace  with  the  warring  savages,  undertook  to  reach  Puget 
Sound  by  forced  marches.  This  trip  was.  taken  in  the  dead 
of  vrinter  over  and  through  deep  snows  in  the  mountains, 
fording  icy  rivers  and  with  scant  provision  and  no  comforts. 

When  Olympia  was  finally  reached  he  found  the  entire 
country  was  overwhelmed.  The  settlers  had  fled  for  refuge 
to  the  small  villages,  with  no  resources  of  food  or  money. 
Starvation  stared  the  pioneers  in  the  face  if  prevented  from 
planting  and  raising  crops.  There  was  also  a  deficiency  of 
arms  and  ammunition.  It  was  small  wonder  that  the  settlers 
were  discouraged,  and  nothing  kept  many  of  them  from  leav- 
ing the  country  but  their  inability  to  get  away. 

The  Governor,  by  proclamation,  raised  1,000  volunteers, 
called  upon  the  people  to  build  block  houses  and  proceed  with 
tilling  the  soil.  He  reijuired  all  Indians  on  the  eastern  side 
of  the  Sound  to  move  into  reservations,  sent  agents  to  Port- 
land, San  Francisco  and  Victoria  with  urgent  appeals  for 
arms,  ammunition  and  supplies.  He  issued  territorial  certifi- 
cates of  indebtedness  to  pay  the  volunteers,  he  freely  resorted 
to  impressment  of  teams,  supplies,  etc.,  wherever  necessary,  and 
vviiile  he  appealed  to  the  patriotism  and  good  feeling  of  tho 


62  THURSTON   COUNTY 

voluuteers  he  enforced  strk-t  discipline  jmd  punished  miscon- 
duct. Tlie  people  responded  to  the  Governor's  appeal  with  truer 
American  spirit  and  patriotism. 

The  Governor's  policy  during  the  war  which  followed  was 
an  aggressive  one.  His  volunteers  pursued  the  bands  of  In- 
dians, routing  them  and  keeping  them  from  uniting  with  other 
bands. 

The  history  of  the  Indian  war  of  1855-56  is  not  within 
the  scope  of  this  work,  but  vivid  pen  pictures  of  individual  ex- 
periences are  given  from  time  to  time  in  the  reminiscences  of 
the  pioneers  interviewed  by  the  compiler.  At  the  close  of  the 
war  Governor  Stevens  disbanded  the  volunteers  and  disposed 
of  the  animals,  equipment  and  supplies  on  hand  at  public  auc- 
tion. Owing  to  the  large  number  captured  there  were  more 
animals  sold  at  the  several  auctions  than  the  entire  number 
purchased  for  the  volunteer  service.  The  sales  of  property 
netted  more  than  $150,000.  As  the  expenses  of  the  volunteers 
had  been  paid  in  scrip  the  sales  were  made  for  scrip  and  many 
of  the  settler  volunteers  were  glad  to  purchase  stock,  wagons 
and  supplies  in  that  way,  although  scrip  money  depreciated 
but  little  below^  par  value. 

Owing  to  the  discouraging  condition  of  the  territory  after 
the  Indian  war  and  owing  to  the  stand  taken  by  the  agents 
of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  Governor  Stevens  w^as  compelled 
at  this  time  to  issue  a  proclamation  of  martial  law.  This  called 
for  considerable  censure  from  the  enemies  of  the  young  Gov- 
ernor, but  at  a  mass  meeting  held  at  the  block  house  in  the 
capital  city,  the  course  of  the  executive  w^as  fully  endorsed  with 
but  12  dissenting  votes.  Judge  B.  F.  Yantis  presided  at  this 
mass  meeting  and  J.  W.  Goodell  acted  as  secretary. 

During  the  time  of  the  Indian  trouble  the  Stevens  family 
remained  in  Olympia,  the  children  attending  the  public  school, 
presided  over  by  Rev.  George  F.  Whitworth  and  his  wife. 

Upon  the  return  of  peace  the  Governor  began  the  con- 
struction of  a  home  on  the  block  of  land  he  had  purchased 
soon  after  his  arrival  in  Olympia,  which  building  is  standing 
to  this  day.  still  in  the  possession  of  the  son.  Hazard  Stevens. 

Upon  completion  of  the  house.  Governor  and  j\Irs.  Stevens 
gave  a  house  warming,  to  which  were  invited  the  members  of 
the  Legislature,  and  all  the  townspeople.  A  description  of  this 
first  Governor's  reception  to  be  held  in  Washington,  is  given 


PIONEER  KEMINISCENCES  l!5 

in  the  reminiscences  contributed  by  ]\Irs.  J.  G.  Parker.  The 
Governor,  soon  after  his  arrival  in  the  West,  adopted  the  garb 
of  the  country,  slouch  hat,  woolen  shirt  and  heavy  ridint* 
boots — a  garb  suital)le  for  one  constantly  undertaking  long  and 
arduous  journeys  horseback  and  by  canoe. 

Li  1857  Stevens  was  elected  Delegate  to  Congress,  and  in 
the  Fall  of  that  year  resigned  as  Governor  of  Washington,  re- 
1  inning  with  his  family  to  the  X;itional  Ca])ital  hy  way  of 
I'anama. 

Congress  adjourning,  the  Stevens  family  again  returned 
to  their  Olympia  home,  where  they  lived  in  peace  and  happi- 
ness until  Stevens  was  again  elected  for  a  second  term  as 
Congressman. 

.At  this  second  term  the  Governor  devoted  his  best  ener- 
gies to  securing  payment  of  the  Indian  war  debt.  He  was  suc- 
cessful in  securing  good  appropriations  for  military  roads  be- 
tween Fort  Benton  and  Walla  Walla  and  between  Steilacoom 
and  Vancouver,  secured  $4500  for  a  boundary  survey  between 
Oregon  and  Washington,  $95,000  for  the  Indian  service,  and 
also  secured  a  new  land  office  and  district  for  the  southern 
part  of  the  territory. 

The  war  shadow  was  now  hovering  over  the  land  and 
Stevens,  upon  his  return  to  Washington,  was  instrumental  in 
raising  a  company  in  Olympia.  known  as  the  Puget  Sound 
Rifles,  of  which  company  he  was  elected  Captain. 

Stevens  now  engaged  in  waging  the  third  campaign  for 
election  as  Delegate  to  Congress,  in  which  he  was  opposed 
l)y  Selucius  Garfielde.  but  before  the  election  was  held,  news 
of  the  attack  on  Fort  Sumter  reached  the  Pacific  Coast. 

Governor  Stevens  at  once  withdrew  his  name  as  candidate 
for  re-election  to  tender  his  service  to  his  country. 

Here  properly  ends  the  life  story  of  Isaac  Ingalls  Stevens 
as  connected  with  the  early  history  of  Washington.  A  record 
of  his  military  careei"  and  the  soldier's  death  at  the  l)attlc 
of  Chantilly  belong  by  rights  to  the  historian  of  the  Civil  War. 

General  Stevens  fell  in  battle  at  the  moment  of  victory, 
lie  had  grasped  the  colors  from  a  dying  standard  bearer,  and 
was  charging  to  the  front,  cheering  to  encourage  his  men, 
when  the  fatal  shot  found  its  mark.  As  he  lay  in  death  his 
hand  gras])ed  the  flag  staff,  with  the  colors,  for  which  the  nobh^ 
life  had  been  freely  given,  resting  upon  his  head  and  shoulders. 


64 


THURSTON  COUNTV 


A  brief  resume  of  the  results  aeliieved  by  Governor 
Stevens'  seven  years  management  of  the  affairs  of  the  new 
territory  show  that  he  had  made  exploration  of  the  northern 
route  for  a  transcontinental  railroad,  had  made  treaties  with 
30,000  Indians,  had  extinguished  Indian  titles  to  many  thous- 
ands of  acres  of  Washington  land,  established  peace  among 
hereditary  enemies  over  a  larger  area  than  New  England  and 
the  Middle  States,  and  by  waging  an  aggressive  warfare  against 
the  savage  foe  had  saved  the  settlements  from  extinction.  In 
Mddition  to  this  Stevens  took  such  a  firm  stand  against  British 
aggression  at  the  time  the  controversy  over  possession  of  the 
San  Juan  Islands  arose  that  this  valuable  group  was  saved 
to  the  United  States.  At  the  end  of  the  war  he  disbanded  the 
volunteers  and  adjusted  financial  claims  to  the  satisfaction  of 
the  majority.  Over  three  quarters  of  a  million  dollars  were 
disbursed  for  the  government,  all  accounts  for  which  were 
found  to  be  correct. 

In  his  career  in  Congress  he  secured  the  ratification  of  his 
Indian  treaties,  payment  of  the  Indian  war  debt,  the  opening 
of  the  interior  to  settlement  and  the  punlshmexit  of  Indian 
murderers:. 


Ei,ISHA  P.  FERRY 


SElvUCIUS  GARFIEIvDE 


EI.WOOD  EVANS  JAMES  BII,ES 

FOUR  MASONIC  PAST  GRAND  MASTERS 


PIONEER   REMINISCENCES  65 


ELISHA  P.  FERRY 


Elisha  P.  Ferry,  the  first  Governor  of  the  State  of  Wash- 
ington, and  Territorial  Governor  for  two  consecutive  terms 
l)eginning  witli  April,  1872,  is  remembered  among  the  pioneers 
as  the  greatest  of  all  Governors,  I.  I.  Stevens  alone  excepted. 
During  his  many  years'  residence  in  Olympia  Governor  Ferry 
was  acknowledged  to  have  been  a  man  of  good  business  ability, 
prudent,  tactful,  painstaking,  in  thinking  as  well  as  in  action, 
possessed  of  rare  good  judgment  and  great  firmness  of  char- 
acter, as  well  as  a  good  lawyer.  He  possessed  all  the  acquire- 
ments as  well  as  the  natural  qualities  that  go  toward  making 
a  good  executive. 

A  native  of  IMichigan.  E.  P.  Ferry  studied  law  there  and 
later  in  Fort  Wayne,  Indiana,  being  admitted  to  the  bar  in 
1845  at  the  age  of  20.  His  first  start  in  life  after  his  gradua- 
tion was  made  in  Waukegan,  Illinois,  where  he  practised  law 
until  1869.  He  was  first  Mayor  of  this  town,  twice  Presidential 
Elector,  a  member  of  the  Constitutional  Convention  of  1861 
and  afterwards  a  Bank  Commissioner. 

When  the  Civil  war  began.  Ferry  served  for  a  time  as  As- 
sistant Adjutant  General  and  helped  materially  in  organizing 
and  equipping  many  of  the  early  Illinois  regiments  and  getting 
them  ready  for  the  field.  While  engaged  in  this  service  he  be- 
came acquainted  with  U.  S.  Grant,  which  acquaintance  soon 
ripened  into  friendship,  and  after  Grant  became  President  he 
appointed  Ferry  Surveyor  General  of  the  rapidly  developing 
Territory  of  Washington.  This  appointment  was  made  in 
1869,  and  Ferry  brought  his  family  to  Olympia,  which  city 
they  regarded  as  their  home  until  the  removal  of  Governor 
Ferry  to  Seattle  a  few  years  before  his  death. 

In  1872  President  Grant  appointed  ]Mr.  Ferry  Territorial 
Governor,  and  at  the  expiration  of  that  four-year  term  re- 
appointed him  to  the  same  position.  At  the  expiration  of 
eight  years  as  territorial  executive  Governor  Ferry  began  the 


66 


THURSTON    COUNTY 


practise  of  law  in  Seattle,  continuing'  until  the  admission  of 
Washington  into  statehood,  when  he  was  elected  Governor  by 
an  overwhelming  vote  of  the  people. 

Governor  Ferry  returned  to  Seattle,  but  was  claimed  by 
death  within  a  few  years  after  the  end  of  his  term. 

His  widow  made  her  home  with  their  daughter,  i\Irs.  John 
Leary,  until  the  past  few  years,  when  she,  too,  passed  away. 

Besides  Mrs.  Leary,  there  are  remaining  of  the  Ferry 
family,  Pierre  and  James  Ferry. 


PIONEER    REMINISCENCES 


SAMUEL  L.  CRAWFORD 


My  father,  Ronald  C.  Crawford,  and  my  mother,  Elizabeth 
Jane  ]Moore.  came  to  Oregon  in  1847,  my  father  from  New 
York,  and  my  mother  from  Illinois.  Father's  elder  brother. 
Medorum,  was  of  the  immigration  of  1842,  and  my  maternal 
grandfather,  Robert  ]\Ioore,  was  of  the  Peoria  expedition  of 
1840,  and  both  were  members  of  the  Champogue  meeting, 
wiiere  the  provisional  government  of  Oregon  was  formed, 
my  grandfather  being  Chairman  of  the  Committee  on  Reso- 
lutions, and  drafted  the  organic  law  which,  when  adopted  by 
the  convention,  became  the  law  of  the  provisional  government 
of  the  territory  of  Oregon,  or  more  particularly  what  was 
called  the  Or-egon  country. 

Mother  w^as  a  little  girl  of  10  years  of  age  when  she 
reached  her  home  in  the  West  and  the  lad  who  afterwards 
became  my  father,  ten  years  older.  In  the  course  of  time  the 
young  couple  became  acquainted  and  were  married,  seven 
children  having  been  born  to  them.  Only  five  of  these  children 
are  still  living.  I.  Samuel  L.,  being  the  second  child. 

My  early  youth  was  spent  in  Walla  Walla,  Oregon  City 
and  Salem,  in  all  of  which  towns  I  attended  school.  When 
while  quite  a  young  lad,  and  still  living  with  my  parents, 
I  attended  school  in  Olympia.  My  teacher  here  was  the  late 
Professor  L.  P.  Venen,  w4io,  at  that  time,  was  conducting  a 
private  school  in  Olympia.  Then  I  went  to  the  public  schools 
of  the  town,  and  enjoyed  the  companionship  of  lads  and 
lassies  who,  many  of  them,  have  become  among  the  prominent 
men  and  women  of  the  now  prosperous  State  of  Washington. 
Among  those  whom  I  am  able  to  recall  at  this  writing  are: 
Levi  Shelton,  noAV  a  prominent  citizen  of  Tacoma;  Cynthia 
Shelton,  who  afterAvards  became  the  wife  of  P.  B.  Van  Trump, 
who  with  Hazard  Stevens,  made  the  first  complete  ascent  of 
Mt.  Rainier  in  1870;  Clarence  AV.  Coulter,  now  prominently 
connected  with  Seattle  business  affairs;  Bradford  W.  Davis, 


68  THURSTON  COUNTY 

now  with  the  railroad  mail  service;  Anna  Pullen.  afterwards 
]\lrs.  Matthew  A.  Kelly.  Mr.  Kelly  was  formerly  a  prominent 
druggist  of  Seattle.  George  E.  Blankenship,  who  took  up  the 
printing  business,  and  has  stayed  on  the  old  stamping  ground ; 
Fannie  Yantis,  who  afterwards  married  Capt.  J.  J.  Gilbert, 
prominent  in  the  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey :  Anna  Stevens, 
who  afterwards  became  the  wife  of  the  Hon.  John  F.  Gowey, 
who  was  connected  with  the  United  States  land  office  in 
Olympia  and  later  was  made  minister  to  China,  where  he 
was  residing  at  the  time  of  his  death,  in  the  early  part  of  the 
present  century;  S.  C.  Woodruff,  Superintendent  of  the  Hos- 
pital for  Defective  Youth  at  Medical  Lake;  Georgia  Pereival. 
now  the  widow  of  the  late  T.  X.  Ford,  at  one  time  Treasurer 
of  the  Territory  of  Washington ;  her  brother,  Samuel  ]\I.  Per- 
eival, being  until  recently  connected  with  the  state  road  bu- 
reau and  whose  wife,  Druzie  Pereival.  is  well  known  in  all  the 
Sound  cities  as  a  musical  composer  of  more  than  ordinary 
talent ;  Francis  A.  Treen,  who  afterwards  developed  a  beau- 
tiful tenor  voice,  wnth  which  he  gave  much  pleasure  to  his 
friends  and  acquaintances  for  many  years ;  Emma  Clark,  who 
afterwards  married  her  teacher,  the  late  L.  P.  Venen;  Josie 
Clark,  afterwards  Mrs.  Dellie  Woodard ;  Nellie  Parker,  now 
Mrs.  Herbert  McMicken,  and  many  others  whose  names  are 
now  but  a  dim  and  cherished  memory. 

After  graduating  from  marbles  in  the  field  of  amusements, 
at  which  game  I  was  proficient  and  kept  my  pockets  well  filled 
with  the  winnings  from  the  other  boys  when  we  played  "for 
keeps,"  base  ball  demanded  my  attention  for  several  j'ears. 
In  our  team  were  Clarence  Bagley,  L.  A.  Treen,  Cal.  Jim  and 
Frank  McFadden  and  many  other  Olympians. 

In  September,  1871,  I  entered  the  office  of  the  Washington 
Standard,  published  by  John  Miller  Murphy,  as  "devil,"  to 
learn  the  printer's  trade.  There  I  worked  until  1875.  when  I 
left  the  office  to  accept  the  position  of  assistant  Clerk  in  the 
Lower  House  of  the  Legislative  Assembly,  of  which  my  father 
was  a  member  from  Lewis  County. 

At  the  expiration  of  the  term  of  the  Legislature  I  worked 
for  Clarence  Bagley.  who  was  at  that  time  public  printer.  Wheri 
the  public  work  was  finished  I  went  to  work  for  Francis  Cook, 
at    that   time    publisher   of   the   Morning   Echo.      Cook   had    i 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  69 

chicken  ranch  on  a  place  called  Hardscrabble,  in  IMason  County. 
The  skunks  were  numerous  and  detracted  from  the  financial 
returns  of  tlie  chicken  ranch,  and  as  he  found  it  difficult  to 
be  at  both  places  at  once  he  arranged  with  me  to  run  the 
paper  so  he  could  devote  his  energies  to  the  chickens.  The 
paper  could  only  afford  one  salary  and  that,  of  course,  to  go 
to  me,  and  I  was  left  to  rustle  my  own  assistance  as  best  I 
could. 

Now,  I  developed  a  regular  Tom  Sawyer  genius  for  work- 
ing my  boon  companions,  and  with  such  jolly  spirits  as  Harry 
K.  Struve,  Ren  Patterson,  Yakima  Jimmie  and  Peter  Stanup, 
T  managed  to  get  along  very  well.  The  work  was  rather 
strenuous,  as  I  commenced  rustling  news  early  in  the  morning, 
wrote  up  the  paper  in  the  late  forenoons  and  early  afternoons. 
then  helped  the  boys  set  the  type,  and  in  the  evening  worked 
off  the  forms,  and  finally  distributed  the  paper  throughout 
the  city  myself,  getting  to  my  bed  (which  was  located  in  the 
banking  house  of  George  Barnes  &  Co.)  about  two  o'clock  in 
the  morning,  after  eating  up  everything  in  the  way  of  fruit 
and  cake  that  Mr.  Barnes  had  remaining  from  his  lunch  at 
noonday. 

During  the  summer  of  this  year  I  arrived  at  my  majority. 
Mr.  Cook,  who  had  visited  the  paper  from  his  chicken  ranch. 
had  inserted  an  item  to  the  effect  that  on  June  22  the  Echo 
man  would  be  21.  Imagine  my  surprise  on  reaching  the  office 
that  morning  to  find  a  table  loaded  down  with  all  sorts  of 
presents.  My  old  friend  and  Sunday  school  teacher,  the  Rev. 
John  R.  Thompson,  had  sent  me  a  handsome  copy  of  Bunyan'^ 
Pilgrim's  Progress,  George  A.  Barnes  a  copy  of  Hill's  Business 
Forms,  and  a  number  of  other  books  from  Francis  H.  Cook 
and  other  friends.  Mr.  and  ^Irs.  L.  A.  Treen,  then  living  in 
Olympia,  sent  me  a  can  of  milk,  ]\Irs.  T.  M.  Reed,  wife  of  the 
lamented  Hon.  Thomas  Reed,  the  well  remembered  and  loved 
pioneer,  sent  me  a  large  fruit  cake,  all  decorated  with  frosted 
flowers,  together  with  this  little  note: 

"To  the  Echo  man  of  twenty-one 
This  little  token's  offered. 
May  the  joys  of  life,  like  Summer  sun, 
E'er  shine  on  Sammy  Crawford." 
I  still   cherish  this  kindlv  token  from  Mrs.  Reed,  and   I   am 


70  THURSTON   COUNTY 

sorry  that  both  she  and  her  husband  have  passed  to  the  Great 
Ijeyond. 

While  these  joyous  days,  fraught  with  hard  work  but 
plenty  of  fun,  were  passing  in  Olympia,  things  were  also  do- 
ing in  Seattle.  While  a  Clerk  in  the  1875  Legislature  the  whole 
assembly  of  Legislators  made  a  trip  to  Steilacoom  and  to 
Seattle,  the  latter  place  to  investigate  the  needs  of  the  TJni- 
versity.  The  "fast  and  commodious"  steamer,  the  Zephyr,  had 
been  chartered  for  that  junket,  and  was  to  leave  Olympia 
at  7 :30  in  the  morning,  stopping  first  at  Steilacoom.  When 
I  got  up  that  morning  I  found  the  steamer  had  left — so  was 
L  While  wondering  what  I  was  to.  do,  I  met  Bob  Abrams 
and  several  other  members  of  the  Legislature,  who  were  in 
my  predicament  also.  We  rushed  to  interview  Ed.  Harmon,  a 
well  remembered  Jehu  of  Olympia,  and  after  telling  him  of 
our  troubles,  arranged  Avith  him  to  beat  the  steamer  to  Steila- 
coom, He  agreed  to  forfeit  a  considerable  consideration  if  he 
failed.  But  he  didn't  fail.  We  came  on  from  Steilacoom  to 
Seattle  with  the  rest  of  the  bunch — my  first  visit  to  the  Queen 
City. 

The  citizens  gave  a  dance  that  evening  in  honor  of  the 
visiting  Legislature  in  Yesler's  Hall.  Bailey  Gatzert  was 
mayor.  All  the  old  settlers,  including  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Yesler, 
turned  out.  Seattle  then  had  a  population  of  L500,  but  they 
vrere  all  alive  and  kicking.  There  was  not  hotel  accommoda- 
tions enough  to  care  for  the  visitors,  and  the  members  and  their 
vx'ives  were  entertained  at  the  homes  of  the  private  citizens. 
Father  and  mother  were  entertained  by  Mr.  and  ]Mrs.  L.  N. 
Robbins,  whose  beautiful  home  then  stood  on  the  block  directly 
south  of  the  late  old  Hotel  Rainier. 

I  had  been  invited  to  spend  the  night  with  my  boyhood 
friend,  George  E.  Blankenship,  then  employed  on  The  Dis- 
patch, by  Brown  &  Bell,  who  roomed  at  the  house  of  M.  A. 
Kelly  on  Third  and  Seneca  Streets.  On  reaching  his  room  some 
time  after  midnight,  we  found  the  bed  occupied  by  Ed.  Pullen, 
a  brother  of  JMrs.  Kelly,  who  had  "dropped  in  unexpectedly." 
We  returned  down  town  and  after  visiting  the  various  hotels 
and  not  finding  acconnnodations,  decided  to  spend  the  re- 
mainder of  the  night  on  the  hay  stored  in  the  open  warehouse 
at  the  end  of  Yesler's  wharf.     We  found  this  hay  literally 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  71 

covered  with  sleeping  men,  and  after  amusing  ourselves  .'i 
Avhile  tying  some  of  them  hand  and  foot  with  heaving  lines, 
we  again  started  up  town.  George  to  seek  his  rest  on  a  pile 
of  paper  in  the  office  and  I  to  fare  much  better.  During  the 
day  my  friend,  the  late  Howard  W.  Lewis,  had  told  me  his 
room  was  the  third  door  on  the  left  hand  side  from  the  head 
of  the  stairs  in  the  Wyckoff  House,  and  I  could  sleep  with  him. 
About  two  o'clock  in  the  morning  those  kind  words  recurred 
to  me  very  prominently  and  going  to  the  Wyekoff  House,  which 
stood  on  the  present  site  of  the  Alaska  building,  1  climbed 
the  stairs,  opened  the  third  door  on  the  left,  and  found 
my  friend  sleeping  in  a  spacious  bed,  and  there  ended  my 
first  night  in  Seattle. 

During  this  brief  visit  I  was  so  impressed  Math  the  business 
enterprise  of  Seattle,  although  it  was  then  a  smaller  town 
than  Olympia.  that  I  told  my  mother  I  would  venture  my 
fortunes  here  at  the  first  opportunity.  This  chance  came  the 
following  year.  The  Daily  Intelligencer  was  launched  on  the 
first  daj'  of  June,  1876,  by  the  late  David  Higgins.  I  had 
gained  some  reputation  as  a  pressman  in  Olympia,  and  as 
Mr.  Higgins  had  introduced  a  power  press  in  his  establish- 
ment, he  wrote  and  offered  me  charge  of  his  press  room,  to- 
gether with  what  composition  I  could  do  when  not  occupied 
about  the  press.  As  the  salary  offered  was  satisfactory,  I  ac- 
cepted the  offer,  and  on  the  24th  of  June  I  left  Olympia  and 
took  up  my  work  on  the  Intelligencer  the  following  morning. 
After  I  had  boarded  the  steamer  Alida  at  Olympia,  Mr.  Cook 
sent  two  of  the  ]\Iilroy  boys  to  the  wharf  to  induce  me  to  de- 
fer my  trip.  I  hid  away  to  avoid  temptation  till  after  the 
steamer  had  left  the  wharf,  and  there  was  never  thereafter 
an  issue  of  the  ]\Iorning  Echo  ])u1)lished.  Mr.  Cook  moved  his 
plant  to  New  Tacoma  and  pul)Iisiied  the  Tacoma  Herald  for 
some  time,  after  which  he  again  moved  his  plant  to  Spokane 
Falls,  where  he  founded  the  Spokane  Chronicle. 

The  oft'ice  of  the  Intelligencer  at  this  time  was  in  a  two 
story  and  basement  wooden  building  belonging  to  II.  L.  Yesler. 
on  First  Avenue,  at  the  foot  of  Cherry  street.  The  First  Pres- 
byterian church,  corner  of  Third  and  Madison  Streets,  had 
recently  been  completed  and  was  staggering  under  a  load  of 
debt  and  was  heavily  mortgaged.     My  old  friend,  Rev.  John 


72  THURSTON  COUNTY 

R.  Thompson,  of  Olyinpia.  out  of  the  bigness  of  his  heart  and 
his  love  for  the  Christian  organization  with  which  he  was 
allied,  had  taken  it  vipon  himself  to  relieve  the  church  of  this 
burden,  and  he  travelled  from  Portland  to  Seattle,  soliciting- 
funds  from  his  personal  friends,  whom  he  numbered  by  the 
liundreds.  Arriving  at  Seattle  he  told  me  of  his  mission,  and 
asked  me  what  I  was  willing  to  do.  I  told  him  I  had  just 
finished  my  tirst  week's  work  in  this  town  and  when  I  got 
my  pay  I  would  settle  my  board  bill  and  give  what  was  left 
to  help  him  in  his  cause. 

Rev.  Thompson,  years  afterwards,  accompanied  the  First 
Washington  Volunteers  to  the  Philippines  as  Chaplain  of  the 
regiment.  He  was  dearly  beloved  by  all  the  brave  soldier  boys, 
but  was  stricken  with  the  fever  prevalent  in  that  country,  and 
did  not  live  to  return  to  his  adopted  State  of  Washington, 
which  he  so  dearly  loved. 

When  I  came  to  Seattle  I  brought  a  baseball  and  bat  with 
me  and  at  odd  times  would  go  out  on  what  was  then  known 
as  Occidental  Square  and  pass  the  ball  around.  I  soon  found 
a  number  of  congenial  spirits,  but  no  organization  of  a  nine 
was  effected  for  several  weeks.  One  day  a  challenge  appeared 
in  a  paper  from  an  organization  in  Newcastle,  offering  to  play 
any  nine  in  King  County,  Seattle  preferred,  on  any  day  in  the 
future,  on  any  grounds  selected  by  the  challenged  team.  I 
tailed  this  to  the  attention  of  my  friends  of  Occidental  Square, 
who  arranged  for  some  practice  games  on  the  old  University 
grounds,  and  we  found  we  could  play  some  ball.  They  au- 
thorized me  to  accept  the  challenge,  on  behalf  of  the  Alki  Base 
Ball  Club  of  Seattle.  The  game  was  played  two  weeks  from 
the  following  Saturday.  I  do  not  remember  the  score,  but  I 
do  remember  that  no  one  of  the  challenging  team  ever  got  be- 
yond second  base.  The  Alkis  at  once  sprung  into  prominence, 
and  for  years  met  all  comers  from  Olympia  to  Victoria.  In 
those  days  amateur  ball  was  played  exclusively,  and  each 
community  had  its  team  made  up  of  its  young  citizenship,  and 
took  great  pride  in  their  performances  and  success.  It  was 
through  baseball  that  I  went  from  the  mechanical  to  the  news 
department  of  the  Intelligencer.  The  Alkis  had  been  to  Vic- 
toria on  the  Queen's  birthday  of,  I  think,  1878,  and  won  a  great 
victory  over  the  fanu^us  Amity  team  of  that  Citj'.     On  our  re- 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  73 

turn  I  asked  the  managing  editor  if  tliey  had  arranged  for  a 
report  of  the  game.  He  said,  in  apparent  great  distress,  that 
the  matter  had  been  overlooked  and  asked  me  who  he  could 
get  to  write  the  story.  I  told  him  I  didn't  know.  "Can  you 
do  it?"  he  asked.  ''I  can  try,"  I  answered.  So  well  pleased, 
apparently,  was  he  with  my  brief  account  of  the  game,  that 
he  sent  for  me  the  next  morning  and  requested  me  to  take 
charge  of  the  local  page  of  the  paper.  I  remained  in  that  de- 
partment during  the  remainder  of  my  career  "on  the  paper, 
and  its  successor,  the  Post-Intelligencer,  extending  over  a 
period  of  about  13  years. 

A  couple  of  years  after  my  connection  with  the  Intelli- 
gencer Thaddeus  Hanford,  a  j^oung  college  man,  and  brother 
of  Judge  C.  H.  Hanford,  bought  a  half  interest  in  the  paper 
and  assumed  its  editorial  control,  and  later  acquired  the  Hig- 
gins  interest.  Soon  afterwards  I  induced  Mr.  Thomas  W. 
Prosch,  an  experienced  newspaper  man  of  Olympia,  Tacoma 
and  Seattle,  to  buy  a  half  interest  in  the  paper.  He  and  Han- 
ford were  so  unlike  in  their  tastes  and  ideas  and  manner  of 
operating  a  daily  publication,  that  they  decided  to  agree  to 
disagree  almost  immediately  and  Hanford  agreed  to  sell  his 
interest  in  the  paper  for  $5000.  Prosch  came  to  me  to  buy  it. 
"But,"  said  I,  "I  have  only  $960;  where  am  I  to  get  the 
balance  of  the  purchase  price?"  He  answered,  "I  think  if 
you  rustle  around  a  little,  you  can  borrow  it.  I  will  let  you 
have,  on  your  note,  $540,  to  be  paid  out  of  the  earnings  of  the 
paper.  This  leaves  you  only  $3500  to  borrow."  I  went  to 
Judge  Orange  Jacobs,  who  had  just  returned  from  a  term  as 
Delegate  to  Congress,  and  told  him  of  my  wants,  and  to  my 
joyous  surprise,  he  lent  me  the  money,  taking  as  security  my 
stock  in  the  paper  secured  by  an  insurance  policy  on  the 
plant.  I  paid  him  the  then  going  rate  of  interest,  IVo  per 
cent,  a  month,  and  paid  10  per  cent  premium  on  the  fire  in- 
surance policy  to  secure  him.  By  hard  work  and  careful  man- 
i'gement  I  succeeded  in  discharging  all  my  debts,  principal 
«nd  interest,  besides  a  lot  of  indebtedness  against  the  paper, 
some  $3000,  for  white  paper  and  telegraphic  services,  of  which 
neither  Mr.  Prosch  nor  I  knew  anything  at  the  time  of  our 
purchase,  within  two  years. 

In  1882  the  Intelligencer  was  consolidated  with  the  Post, 


74  THURSTON  COUNTY 

a  daily,  owned  by  John  Leary  and  George  AV.  Harris,  but 
which  was  proving  a  losing  venture.  This  was  the  beginning 
of  the  long  and  glorious  career  in  the  newspaper  field  of  the 
Post-Intelligencer.  About  this  time  trouble  arose  with  the 
Printers'  Union,  and  I  Avas  unwilling  to  accede  to  terms  de- 
manded by  this  body  of  workmen,  so  sold  my  interest  in  the 
P.-I.  to  Mr.  Prosch  and  became  an  employe  on  the  paper. 

On  the  30th  day  of  October,  1888,  I  finally  severed  my 
connection  with  the  Post-Intelligencer,  to  enter  the  real  estate 
business  in  partnership  with  Mr.  Charles  F.  Conover,  who  had 
been  associated  with  me  on  the  paper  for  a  couple  of  years 
previously.  Owing  to  our  wide  acquaintance,  growing  out  of 
our  long  connection  with  the  paper,  our  new  venture  prospered 
almost  from  the  start.  We  opened  an  office  in  the  ncAv  Yesler 
block,  on  Yesler  Avenue.  That  evening  we  gave  a  banquet 
to  our  late  associates  on  the  paper,  the  members  of  the  edi- 
torial, neAvs  and  business  staff,  and  it  Avas  some  banquet,  too. 
It  Avas  given  at  the  Occidental,  Avhich  Avas  on  the  site  of  the 
present  Hotel  Seattle. 

We  busied  ourselves  during  the  next  25  days  in  listing 
properties  and  publishing  advertisements  and  announcements. 
By  that  time  our  capital  was  pretty  Avell  exhausted,  and  we 
had  not  taken  in  a  cent.  On  the  27th  a  stranger  came  to  the 
office  to  have  some  notary  work  done,  and  Ave  charged  him  a 
dollar.  AVe  put  that  dollar  in  an  envelope,  marked  it  our 
first  dollar,  locked  it  in  the  safe  and  have  the  identical  coin  to 
this  day.  The  next  day  Ave  sold  11  lots  and  eight  houses  to 
the  late  Ursula  Wyckoff  for  $20,000.  Her  son,  J.  V.  AVyckoff. 
still  OAvns  four  of  the  lots,  valued  at  over  $120,000.  From 
that  time  on  business  Avas  quite  active  and  at  the  expiration 
of  our  first  year  our  commissions  amounted  to  upAvards  of 
$50,000.  In  the  summer  of  1889,  we  placed  the  Renton  addi- 
tion on  the  market  for  Capt.  AV.  H.  Renton,  of  Port  Blakely, 
and  sold  fifteen  lots  the  first  day  at  prices  ranging  from  $700 
to  $1,000  each. 

The  next  day  the  great  Seattle  fire  took  place,  and  burned 
our  office,  together  Avith  the  greater  part  of  the  business  por- 
tion of  Seattle.  I  Avas  in  Port  Blakely  Avhen  I  Avas  told  that 
Seattle  Avas  burning,  and  induced  the  captain  of  the  steamer 
Success  to  leaA^e  a  half  hour  earlier  than  schedule  time  for 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  75 

home.  Fr^-e's  Opera  House  was  l)urning  when  I  got  Seattle 
en  the  wire  at  Blakely.  When  I  reached  our  office  I  was  mad 
to  find  all  of  our  furniture  piled  out  on  the  sidewalk  in  front 
of  the  Yesler  building.  I  demanded  to  know  why  it  was  not 
hauled  to  safety,  and  was  told  of  the  impossibility  of  getting 
teams.  I  rushed  across  the  street  where  was  the  owner  of 
teams  and  who  had  for  years  expressed  the  warmest  friend- 
ship for  me.  But  he  said  he  could  do  nothing  for  us.  I  was 
\ery  angry  and  went  on  down  to  Yesler 's  wharf,  where  I  found 
a  man  unloading  brick.  I  hired  him  for  $5  to  go  with  me 
to  move  my  furniture.  While  standing  in  the  wagon  with 
him,  directing  where  to  drive,  and  when  we  left  the  wharf 
excited  men  began  rushing  up  to  my  driver  and  began  shout- 
ing, "$50  a  load,  $75  a  load,  $100  a  load,"  etc.  The  man 
asked  me  what  they  meant  and  I  told  him  to  drive  on,  they 
were  all  crazy.  We  rushed  the  furniture  onto  the  wagon  and 
J  directed  the  man  where  to  drive.  Then  I  rushed  to  the  Post- 
Intelligencer  office,  where  I  met  the  business  manager  and 
asked  him  if  the  bound  files  of  the  paper  had  been  saved.  He 
said  they  had  not  and  would  not  be,  as  no  effort  would  be 
made  to  save  them.  I  notified  him  that  I  would  undertake  the 
task  and  would  brook  no  interference.  The  fire  was  then 
burning  the  building  between  Cherry  Street  and  Yesler  Avenue. 
Unaided,  I  carried  those  files,  four  volumes  at  a  time,  up  to 
Third  and  James  and  placed  them  in  the  custody  of  Mrs. 
Bailey  Gatzert.  The  next  day  I  met  Mr.  Hunt  and  asked  him 
if  he  had  saved  his  files.  He  replied  that  they  had  been  burned 
with  the  office,  and  that  no  money  could  reimburse  him  for 
their  loss.  I  then  told  him  I  had  saved  them  for  him  and  gave 
him  an  order  on  Mrs.  Gatzert  for  their  return.  I  judge  the 
files  which  I  saved  of  daily,  weekly  and  tri-weekly  from  the 
beginning  of  the  paper  up  to  that  time  weighed  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  a  ton  and  a  half  and  they  were  almost  worth  their 
weight  in  gold.  The  paper  afterwards  published  the  fact 
that  the  files  had  been  saved  and  gave  me  due  credit  for  their 
preservation.  The  next  morning  the  paper  was  published  in  a 
much  condensed  form  and  contained  but  two  advertisements — 
one  announcing  the  change  of  location  of  the  Puget  Sound 
National  Bank  and  the  other  notifying  the  public  that  Craw- 
ford &  Conover  had  temporarily  moved  their  real  estate  of- 


76  THURSTON  COUNTY 

fice  to  615  Union  Street.  A  couple  of  days  later  my  mother 
sent  me  word  that  if  were  going  to  continue  to  advertise  our 
office  at  her  home  she  wanted  me  to  send  some  one  there  to 
show  property,  as  customers  were  constantly  calling  and  she 
knew  nothing  about  the  real  estate  business. 

The  firm  of  Crawford  &  Conover  recently  celebrated  their 
25th  anniversary  in  business  by  moving  into  spacious  quar- 
ters in  our  own  building  near  the  corner  of  Third  and  Pine. 
In  a  book  descriptive  of  the  thriving  City  of  Seattle  and  the 
rapidlj^  developing  State  of  Washington,  which  we  published 
for  public  distribution  at  an  expense  of  $15,000,  entitled, 
"Washington,  the  Evergreen  State,  and  Seattle,  Its  Metrop- 
olis," we  gave  this  commonwealth  the  soubriquet  of  "Ever- 
green State,"  which  has  since  been  adopted  as  Washington's 
universal  and  most  appropiate  name." 

Mr.  Crawford  has  always  been  a  public  spirited  man  and 
has  performed  many  acts  of  kindness  and  benevolence,  which 
fias  made  his  name  entitled  to  honorable  mention  among  the 
list  of  philanthropists  of  the  State  of  Washington.  His  enter- 
prise of  collecting  funds  for  the  erection  of  the  monument  over 
the  last  resting  place  of  the  late  Princess  Angeline  was  a 
praiseworthy  undertaking  and  one  which  gave  Mr.  Crawford 
much  satisfaction.  Angeline  and  Crawford  had  for  years  been 
close  tillicums,  the  white  man  frequently  calling  on  the  prin- 
cess to  be  sure  she  was  not  suffering  for  the  necessities  of  life. 
During  her  latter  years,  after  she  was  unable  to  help  herself, 
many  a  timely  gift  of  money  or  provisions  were  sent  by  the 
kindly  man.  When  the  weight  of  years  was  heavy  upon 
Angeline  and  it  was  evident  she  would  soon  join  her  father, 
Chief  Seattle,  in  the  Happy  Hunting  Ground,  Mr.  Crawford 
asked  her  where  she  wished  to  take  her  long  sleep,  in  the  w^hite 
man's  graveyard  or  beside  her  father's  remains.  "Oh,  let 
me  be  buried  with  my  white  tillicums,  who  have  been  so  good 
to  me!"  and  her  wish  was  respected. 

Mr.  Crawford  started  a  movement  among  the  children  of 
Seattle  to  raise  a  fund  for  the  erection  of  a  monument  by 
10  cent  contributions.  The  children  responded  gladly,  al- 
though the  promoter  of  the  scheme  had  to  supply  part  of  the 
expense  from  his  own  pocket.  Granite  from  the  mountain 
of  that  name  in  the  Cascades,  was  employed  in  the  handsome 


PIONEER  KEMINISCENCES  77 

itnd  appropriate  monument  which  marks  the  resting  place  oi" 
the  Princess  Angeline,  and  J\Ir.  Crawford  tells  that  even  to  this 
day  her  grave  is  covered  with  bouquets  of  daisies  and  other 
common  flowers,  sometimes  tied  with  white  twine  string, 
placed  there  by  childish  hands  whose  owners  feel  a  personal 
interest  in  the  spot  because  they  had  helped  to  build  the 
monument. 

For  several  years  after  Mr.  Crawford  had  retired  from 
active  newspaper  work  the  itch  remained  with  him  and  a 
column  of  '"Reminiscences"  contributed  to  the  Sunday  edi- 
tion of  the  Post-Intelligencer,  was  one  of  the  features  of  that 
l)aper.  When  Mr.  Crawford  had  been  writing  these  reminis- 
cences for  several  years.  Mrs.  Crawfod  collected  all  her  hus- 
band's writings  in  a  large  scrapbook  and  presented  it  to  him 
as  a  valentine  present.  The  columns  of  this  scrapbook  are 
replete  with  interesting  and  amusing  incidents  of  pioneer  his- 
tory, not  only  of  Seattle,  where  Mr.  Craw^ford  has  spent  the 
greater  number  of  years  of  his  majority,  but  also  of  Olympia. 
The  compiler  of  this  book  spent  a  most  delightful  evening 
skimming  over  Mr.  Crawford's  scrap  book  and  listening  to  the 
author  of  the  sketches  elaborate  on  the  printed  stories  and 
relate  the  circumstances  w^hieh  gave  rise  to  a  particular  event. 
Such  a  bewildering  richness  of  material  was  offered  the  com- 
piler that  it  was  difficult  to  select  a  limited  number  of  the  most 
typical  sketches.  But  among  those  which  interested  the  writer 
most  were  the  following: 

During  the  Republican  campaign  of  1869  Selucius  Gar- 
fielde  was  a  candidate  for  Representative  to  Congress.  In 
order  to  secure  his  election  Mr.  Garfielde,  as  is  the  custom  to 
this  day,  made  many  pre-election  promises.  Candidates  for 
office  seem  to  have  been  as  plentiful  in  those  good  old  days  as 
they  are  at  this  later  day.  Came  the  election  and  the  men  who 
had  been  promised  a  friendly  word  in  high  places  worked 
tooth  and  nail  for  ]\Ir.  Garfielde 's  election,  with  the  result  that 
he  was  winner  by  a  good  majority.  Rejoicing,  the  candidates 
who  had  pinned  their  faith  to  the  Congressional  Delegate,  hur- 
ried to  bring  him  enough  endorsements  and  testimonials  of 
their  peculiar  fitness  for  political  jobs  to  which  they  aspired, 
to  stuff  a  good-sized  trunk  to  bursting.  Garfielde  suavely 
accepted  all  the  papers  and  Avith  smiles  and  promises  to  see 


Ig  THURSTON  COUNTY 

the  powers  on  behalf  of  his  Washington  Territory  friends  as 
soon  as  he  arrived  in  the  National  eapitol.  It  took  a  long  time 
in  those  days  to  make  the  trip  to  Washington,  D.  C,  bnt  the 
Olympia  politicians  awaited  word  from  their  political  sponsor 
with  what  patience  they  might.  Days  rolled  into  weeks  and 
then  months  rolled  over  the  men  who  were  impatient  to  be- 
gin on  their  official  duties — also  their  official  salaries.  Letters 
were  sent  Congressman  Garfielde,  but  no  answer  was  received. 
Finally,  quite  desperate,  a  telegram  was  sent  Garfielde  de- 
niaiidiiig  to  know  why  the  appointments  were  not  forthcominaf 
"Trunk  and  all  endorsements  lost!"  was  the  ans^ver  wired 
back.  Mr.  Garfielde  had  found,  as  do  Western  Congressmen 
ever,  that  when  they  arrive  in  Washington,  D.  C,  keeping  pre- 
election promises  are  not  always  possible.  The  town  wit,  but 
whether  that  was  Francis  Henry  or  Fred  Eltze  is  a  disputed 
question,  drew  a  caricature  of  a  mammoth  trunk  flying  through 
the  air  and  in  this  trunk,  with  grotesque  expressions  on  their 
faces,  which,  although  caricatured  most  fantistically,  were  yet 
plainly  recognizable,  w^ere  pictured  the  disappointed  politi- 
cians. Although  that  caricature  was  made  almost  45  years 
ago  many  of  the  old  timers,  on  being  shown  the  j^hotograph 
which  John  Yantis  made  of  the  drawing,  recognize  their 
friends  and  smile  over  the  remembrance  of  Mr.  Garfielde 's 
lost  trunk.  There  were  L.  P.  Beach,  Randall  Hewitt,  Cherokee 
Smith,  Judge  Dennison,  Rev.  Whitworth,  Judge  Struve,  of 
Vancouver;  Elwood  Evans,  W.  W.  Miller,  A.  R,  Elder  and 
Hon.  P.  D.  Moore — the  latter  perfectly  recognizable  to  the 
friends  of  the  present  day.  Struve 's  feet  were  sticking  out 
the  side  of  the  trunk,  a  reference  to  his  large  extremities.  In 
fact,  the  most  characteristic  feature  of  each  of  the  men  pictured 
in  the  trunk  was  prominently  brought  out  and  enlarged  on. 

During  a  later  and  still  more  famous  campaign  between 
Selueius  Garfielde  and  Hon.  Obadiah  B.  McFadden  for  election 
as  Delegate  to  Congress  in  the  year  of  1872,  Mr.  Francis  Henry 
contributed  several  columns  of  his  brilliant  writings  each  week 
to  the  Washington  Standard,  under  the  head  of  "Chronicles." 
In  these  contributions  the  most  prominent  men  were  dubbed 
titles  which,  owing  either  to  their  fitness,  or  the  pleasing  allit- 
eration of  the  words,  clung  to  their  recipients,  in  many  in- 
stances, to  the  day  of  their  death.     As  for  example:    Judge 


PIONEER  BEMINISCENCES  *? 

McFadden,  "Obadiah,  The  Faithful";  Garfielde,  ''Sehieiiis  thi- 
Babbler";  B.  F.  Dennison.  " Benjamin  the  Stiff''  ;  T.  M.  Reed. 
'' Thomas  the  Good":  E.  P.  Ferry,  "Elisha  the  Prophet";  S. 
Coulter.  "Samuel  the  Smiler";  C,  B.  Bagiey,  "Clarence  the 
Amorous";  Rev.  John  R.  Thompson.  "John  the  Joeky''';  ^Mar- 
shal  Blinn,  "Marshal  the  Headstrong." 

When  Mr.  Crawford  was  still  serving  his  apprenticeship 
of  printer  on  the  Washington  Standard,  the  proprietor.  Mr. 
John  i\Iiller  ]Murphy.  was  a  candidate  for  the  office  of  Terri-^ 
torial  Auditor.  Mr.  Miller  was  opposed  by  the  Hon.  Jos.  Kuhn 
of  Port  To\\aisend,  The  latter  man  being  a  member  of  the 
Legislature  of  1873,  there  was  occasion  to  put  his  name  in  type 
many  times  in  each  issue  of  the  Standard  during  the  time 
the  Legislature  was  in  session.  Murphy,  holding  his  grudge 
against  his  opponent,  told  young  Crawford  never  to  allow 
Kuhn's  name  to  appear  in  the  paper  correctly  spelled.  The 
ingenuity  with  which  the  printer  carried  out  the  commands 
of  his  superior  are  worthy  of  preservation:  "Cun, '*  "Coon," 
"Cune,"  "Kun,"  "Knne,"  "Koon,"  "Kunne,"  "Keun," 
"Khunne,"  and  "Keunn"  were  among  the  variations  Craw- 
ford managed  to  ring  on  the  name  "Kuhn." 

While  working  on  the  daily  Echo  in  Olympia  I  had  as  an 
apprentice  an  Indian  boy  named  Peter  C.  Stanup,  son  of  Jonas 
Stanup  sub-chief  of  the  Piiyallup  Indians. 

Unusually  bright  and  well  educated,  young  Stanup  had 
been  converted  to  the  Christian  faith  and  had  studied  theology 
and  preached  to  the  Indians  for  six  or  seven  years.  After 
graduating  from  the  newspaper  business  Stanup  studied  law 
and  became  very  able  in  that  profession.  About  this  time  the 
Government  granted  the  Puyallup  Indians  their  land  in  several- 
ty and  Peter's  holdings  were  estimated  to  be  worth  from 
$50,000  to  $60,000. 

Peter,  while  working  for  the  development  of  the  reserva- 
tion, against  the  wishes  of  the  more  ignorant  Indians  of  his 
tribe,  was  thrown  off  a  foot  log  into  the  Puyallup  river  ami 
droAvned. 

During  the  time  the  late  lamented  John  H.  McGraw  w;i>< 
M  candidate  on  the  Republican  ticket  for  Governor  of  the  State 
he  was  bitterly  opposed  by  the  Tacoma  papers  and  it  looked 
as  if  he  would  not  l)e  able  to  Crirry  a  single  precinct  in  Pierce 


80 


THURSTON  COUNTTY 


Cunnty.  In  talking  over  the  matter,  lie  asked  me  if  I  thought 
there  was  any  chance  for  him  to  carry  even  one  precinct  in  that 
County.  I  told  McGraw  and  Mr.  L.  S,  Hunt  that  if  we  could 
enlist  Stanup  's  services  we  might  earrj  the  reservation  precinct, 

Stanup  was  sent  for  but  when  he  arrived  he  told  us  that 
a  strong  feeling  had  been  worked  up  against  McGraw  in  all  of 
Pierce  County  owing  to  a  plank  in  the  Republican  platforn* 
favoring"  construction  of  the  Lake  Washington  canal.  How- 
ever, if  I  was  willing  to  give  the  Indians  a  feast  the  night  be- 
fore election  and  a  talk  after  the  feast  and  have  U.  S.  officers' 
at  the  polling  booths  so  that  the  boys  would  not  be  interfered', 
with  by  thugs  from  the  town  we  might  carry  the  precinct  for 
McGraw.  We  promised  Stanup  all  this  and  fulfilled  our 
promises.  When  the  votes  were  counted  after  the  election 
Peter  wired,  "We  carried  the  precinel.  for  McGraw  by  a  major- 
ity of  one.'''' 

Peter  was  invited  to  Seattle  and  was  an  honored  gruest  at 
Mr.  Hunt''s  office  while  the  State  returns  were  being"  received- 
These  returns  showed  McGraw  had  won  by  ahandsome  m'a:,farity 
all  over  the  State, 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  81 


D.  C.  BEATTY 


David  Crane  Beatty  and  his  wife,  Mai\y  Thompson  Beatty, 
have  made  Olympia  their  home  for  almost  65  years.  Some- 
times venturing  their  fortunes  in  other  places,  sometimes  farm- 
ing in  the  County  near,  once  leaving  Washington  entirely,  but 
always  coming  back  to  the  scene  of  their  youthful  prime  and 
vigor,  and  now  as  the  shadows  gather  and  the  sun  of  their  lives 
sinks  low  in  the  West,  their  only  hope  or  thought  is  to  take 
their  final  rest  near  the  place  that  has  spelled  home  to  this 
devoted  couple  for  well  over  the  half  century  mark. 

Mr.  Beatty  first  saw  the  light  of  day  in  Champaign  County, 
Ohio,  the  year  of  his  birth  being  1828.  When  nine  years  of 
age  his  parents  took  their  eleven  children  and  went  to  Illinois. 
where  they  settled  for  a  good  many  years.  Here  the  young 
David  grew  to  manhood  and  learned  the  trade  of  cabinet 
making.  He  was  of  rather  delicate  health,  however,  and 
realized  that  a  complete  change  of  climate  was  advisable,  so 
decided  to  take  the  famous  advise  and  "Go  West."  The  start 
was  made  from  New  York  on  December  16,  1852. 

The  young  man  took  passage  on  the  old  steamer  Brother 
Jonathan  to  Paiuima.  One  of  the  excitments  of  the  trip  was 
the  almost  daily  occurrence  of  fire  on  the  ])oat.  Only  the 
oldest  and  most  unseaworthy  of  water  craft  was  then  used  to 
bring  those  foolhardy  enough  to  seek  what  Avas  considered 
an  imaginary  fortune  in  the  almost  unknown  West. 

From  San  Francisco  Mr.  Beatty  came  on  to  Portland. 
Oregon,  his  steamer  this  time  being  the  Fremont,  well  re- 
membered by  pioneer  emigrants.  Portland  was  then  a  village, 
in  the  woods  on  the  Willamette  River,  of  probably  two  business 
blocks  and  a  few  scattered  houses.  The  Winter  months  were 
spent  there,  but  when  Spring  came  and  tales  began  to  reach 
the  Oregon  town  of  opportunities  for  business  openings  in  the 
Sound  country,  which  was  just  beginning  to  attract  the 
emigrants'  atte)ition,  Beatty,  whose  healtli  was  still  poor,  de- 


82  THURSTON  COUNTY 

eided  to  join  a  i)arty  of  young  men  and  take  the  ventnre. 

Sixteen  stalwart  young  men  were  in  the  party  with  which 
the  young  man  cast  his  fortune.  All  that  Mr.  Beatty  can 
remember  the  names  of  at  this  late  day  are  Tom  Prather,  four 
Hays  brothers  and  Edmund  Carr. 

The  trip  was  made  up  the  Cowlitz  River  in  Indian  canoes 
to  the  lower  landing.  Here  the  boys  took  the  Indian  trail  up 
the  river  through  brush  so  dense  that  many  times  the  only 
possible  way  to  get  along  was  by  crawling  on  their  knees. 
When  Jackson's  place  was  reached  the  men  were  served  a, 
breakfast  that,  even  after  the  lapse  of  these  many  years,  re- 
mains fresh  in  ]\Ir.  Beatty 's  memory. 

About  noon  the  party  came  out  on  Scatter  Creek.  They 
were  almost  famished  by  this  time,  and  were  delighted  to  find 
a  shack  standing  there  in  the  wilderness.  The  owner  was  not 
around,  but  the  door  was  unlocked,  so  they  went  in  and 
searched  for  something  to  satisfy  their  hunger.  Edmund  Carr 
was  the  first  to  reach  the  rude  cupboard  and  opened  the 
door.  Mother  Hubbard's  cupboard  must  have  been  a  clos3 
connection  to  this  one.  for  the  only  eatable  the  hungry  young 
men  could  find  was  one  cold  potato  on  a  tin  plate.  As  this 
potato  was  only  about  the  size  of  a  walnut  Carr  appropriated 
it  for  himself.  There  was  nothing  else  in  all  the  cabin  to 
eat,  so  the  men  had  to  push  on  to  the  next  stopping  place. 
Carr  then  called  his  friend  Beatty  aside  and,  dividing  the 
diminutive  potato  exactly  in  half,  gave  one  portion  to  him, 
eating  the  other  himself.  This  was  among  the  many  acts  of 
generosity  and  brotherly  love  that  were  related  to  the  com- 
piler of  these  reminiscences  that  made  the  work  one  of  the 
most  delightful  and  inspiring  experiences  of  her  life. 

As  evening  approached,  the  party  of  adventurers  reached 
Bush's,  where  a  good  supper  was  served  them  and  permission 
given  the  boys  to  roll  up  in  their  blankets  on  the  floor  of  the 
shack,  which  permission  was  gladly  accepted.  In  the  morning 
the  march  was  completed  by  the  arrival  at  Tumwater.  There 
was  only  the  stringers  of  a  bridge  then  across  the  Des  Chutes 
River  at  this  place,  the  crossing  having  been  made  heretofore 
by  Indian  canoes.  Horses  and  cattle  were  generally  taken  to 
Tenalquot  Prairie,  where  there  was  a  safe  ford.  This  bridge, 
under  construction,  was  being  built  by  Ira  Ward,  the  pioneer 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  83 

iiiillman  of  Puget  Sound.  The  young  men,  single  file,  walked 
the  s(iuare  timbers  across  the  river,  so  reaching  Tumwater. 
^Ir.  Beatty's  eyes  grew  dim  as  he  mused.  "I  can  see  them 
yet,  sixteen  as  fine  young  men  as  were  ever  to  be  seen,  filing 
across  that  river  which  flowed  swiftly  beneath  the  single  stick 
of  timber.  Of  that  goodly  party  only  Tom  Prather  and  myself 
are  left.  All  the  rest  are  long  since  gone."  The  experience  of 
crossing  the  river  was  a  new  one  to  the  prairie  raised  lad. 

From  Tumwater  the  trail  to  Olympia  was  taken  and  this 
place  reached  about  noon.  The  very  afternoon  the  boj's  reached 
here  news  was  brought  to  the  settlement  that  Washington  had, 
by  Act  of  Congress,  been  set  aside  from  Oregon.  Everyone 
was  glad  and  believed  that  a  great  era  of  prosperity  was  about 
to  set  in  for  the  new  territory. 

"When  I  reached  Olympia  there  were  no  buildings  south 
of  Fourth  Street,  everywhere  else  stood  the  tall  timber  coming 
right  down  to  the  beach,  the  only  exception  being  Isaac 
Wood's  residence,  a  shack  constructed  of  clapboards  down  on 
the  beach  at  where  the  end  of  Fifth  Street  now  is.  Mrs.  Simp- 
son Moses  and  Mrs.  George  Barnes  are  the  names  of  the  only 
white  women  I  can  remember,  although  there  were  two  others 
when  we  got  here. 

"Edmund  Sylvester  and  his  brother  had  a  Hall  for 
Travelers,  as  they  called  their  place,  on  the  corner  w^here 
the  Old  New  England  hotel  now  stands.  Their  'Hall'  was 
of  split  and  hewn  lumber,  lined  with  cloth,  and  while  very 
comfortable  for  those  days  hardly  came  up  to  its  pretentious 
name. 

"My  first  job  was  taken  to  split  rails  for  IMr.  Ruddle,  out 
on  Chambers  Prairie.  My  friend  Carr  went  with  me  and  we 
found  we  had  to  first  cut  down  the  cedar  trees,  saw  them  into 
lengths,  and  then  split  the  logs  into  rails.  Well,  I  was  not 
strong  yet  and  too  much  of  a  tenderfoot  to  last  long  at  this 
kind  of  work,  so  when  noon  came  we  quit  and  came  back  to 
Olympia. 

"Our  next  venture  was  to  go  to  Alki  Point,  as  it  is  now 
known,  but  which  was  then  held  as  a  townsite  by  Charles 
Terry  and  called  New  York.  W.  W.  ]\Iiller  was  at  that  time 
internal  revenue  officer  for  the  government  and  offered  Carr 
and  myself  passage  to  New  York  for  rowing  the  boat  to  tliat 


g4  THURSTON   COUNTY 

place.  I  was  fresh  from  the  prairie  country,  the  water  was 
new  to  me  and  I  had  never  rowed  a  boat  in  mj^  life,  but  we 
accepted  the  offer  and  made  out  tolerably  well. 

"When  Ave  reached  New  York  we  found  that  Charlie 
Terry,  of  the  firm  of  Lowe  &  Terry,  loggers,  was  an  old  friend 
of  my  family,  having  come  from  the  same  place  in  Illinois. 
There  were  only  three  or  four  cabins  there,  but  Terry  had 
great  faith  in  the  prospect  of  a  great  city  growing  up  there 
some  day,  so  had  platted  the  town  site  and  laid  off  city  lots. 

"I  was  given  work  driving  an  ox  team — familiar  work  it 
was,  too — on  Bainbridge  Island.  Carr  w^as  set  to  felling  trees. 
At  this  time  our  only  food  for  over  six  weeks  was  salmon  and 
potatoes,  but  I  never  thrived  better,  and  gained  a  pound  a  day, 
till  I  was  quite  a  comfortable  weight  and  ray  bad  health 
greatly  improved.  For  this  six  weeks  we  were  out  of  flour 
and  it  was  not  till  the  next  sailing  vessel  came  into  port 
that  we  were  enabled  to  have  a  variation  from  our  diet  of 
salmon  and  potatoes. 

"When  Lowe  sold  out  I  returned  to  Olympia  with  him, 
and  about  the  first  thing  I  did  upon  my  return  was  to  build 
a  little  house  for  John  Swan,  on  the  corner  where  the  Knox 
hotel  now  stands.  Upon  completion  of  this  building  I  rented 
it  of  Swan,  procured  a  foot  lathe,  cut  alder  trees  from  the 
swamp  and  began  making  furniture.  In  the  early  days  car- 
penters or  cabinet  makers  were  of  necessity  mechanics  in  the 
true  meaning  of  the  word — not  wood  butchers.  Though  the 
trade  was  not  governed  by  unions,  the  very  condition  compelled 
a  man  to  be  proficient.  It  was  not  possible  then  to  go  to  the 
mill  and  get  his  doors  and  windows,  his  matched  lumber  and 
shingles  or  mouldings — all  these  were  the  work  of  the  car- 
penter, whose  kit  of  tools  must  include  moulding  planes  and 
ether  accessories  now  made  unnecessary  by  modern  improve- 
ments. 

"Later  I  bought  the  corner  where  for  so  many  years  John 
Miller  Murphy  has  had  his  printing  office,  and  which  I  sold 
to  him  in  after  years.  Here  I  built  for  myself  a  shop,  and 
continued  making  furniture.  I  was  getting  a  fine  start,  and 
all  my  prospects  were  of  the  brightest  when  the  Indian  war 
broke  out.  This  put  a  stop  to  business  of  all  kinds.  Emigra- 
tion slacked,  and  the  countrv  was  set  back  ten  years.     Closing 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  85 

my  shop  I  enlisted  with  the  first  volunteer  company  organized 
to  fight  the  Indians. 

"Well,  my  experiences  during  this  war  would  fill  a  small 
v^olume  by  themselves.  ]Many  exciting  and  dangerous  times 
were  before  me  then.  I  was  among  the  soldiers  engaged  in 
the  Indian  fight  in  the  Puyallup  Valley.  Once  I  was  with  a 
party  of  volunteers  who  rescued  an  English  family  of  settlers 
from  massacre  in  this  valley.  Their  house  was  surrounded, 
and  although  the  inmates  had  made  a  gallant  defense,  the 
Indians  were  just  breaking  down  the  door  when  our  men 
came  galloping  up,  scattering  the  enemy  and  saving  the  lives 
of  the  white  people. 

"After  the  White  River  battle  and  the  subsequent  sub- 
duing of  the  Indians  on  this  side  of  the  mountains,  our  com- 
pany was  ordered  East  of  the  mountains,  where  the  Indians 
cf  the  Cayuse,  Walla  Walla  and  Umatilla  tribes  were  on  the 
warpath.  We  crossed  the  mountains  through  the  Natchez 
Pass,  which  was  wild  and  rough,  and  proved  a  trying  ex- 
perience. 

"Our  camp  was  made  for  several  weeks  on  I\Iill  Creek, 
near  Walla  Walla,  at  the  place  where  the  Whitman  massacre 
occurred.  We  had  to  wait  here  till  our  government  supplies 
arrived  from  Portland. 

"Here  occurred  an  incident  the  reasons  of  which  kepi 
my  comrades  guessing  for  the  remainder  of  the  campaign. 
Among  the  supplies  sent  the  volunteers  was  a  barrel  of 
whisky.  This  was  divided  among  the  several  companies, 
my  company's  share  being  a  three  gallon  camp  kettle  full. 
The  kettle,  with  its  precious  contents,  was  set  in  the  com- 
manding officer's  tent  to  wait  till  the  boys  got  in  from  a 
scouting  expedition,  before  dividing  the  whisky.  As  it  was 
difficult  to  get  the  men  together  that  night  our  captain  de- 
cided that  a  morning  drink  would  best  be  appreciated  by  the 
boys.  Now,  it  was  my  duty  to  care  for  this  captain's  tent,  as 
I  was  2nd  sergeant  of  our  company,  and  was  generally  the 
first  one  up  in  the  morning,  to  make  the  fire  and  bring  fresh 
water  for  making  the  coffee  for  our  mess.  I  grabbed  this 
kettle,  threw  the  contents  on  the  ground  and  filled  the  utensil 
with  water.  Later,  when  the  boys  were  lined  up  with  their 
tin   cups  in  tlieir  hands  and  glad  anticipation   in  their  minds, 


86  THURSTON   COUNTY 

llic  captain  went  into  the  tent  to  bi'ing  out  the  kettle.  Where 
was  it?  Why,  there  on  the  fire  filled  with  boiling  coffee.  I 
was  (inestioned  and  acknowledged  that  it  was  through  my  act 
that  the  whisky  Avas  scattered  on  the  ground.  How  was  I  to 
know  that  the  kettle  held  anything  but  dirty  water?  The 
captain  could  say  but  little,  for  he  had  not  told  me  to  be 
careful  of  the  contents  of  the  kettle,  and  it  was  ray  custom 
to  take  that  kettle  every  morning  to  the  creek  for.  fresh 
Avater.  My  comrades  growled  a  good  bit,  but  they  never 
could  tell  for  certain  whether  I  really  diil  know  what  was  in 
that  kettle  or  not.  After  these  years  I  can  say  that  the  very 
liame  of  whisky  has  always  been  distasteful  to  me.  We  were 
on  the  eve  of  an  attack  from  the  Indians,  we  supposed,  and 
T  was  determined  that  there  would  be  at  least  one  sober  com- 
pany in  the  engagement.  The  boys  didn't  dare  to  manhandle 
nic.  but  I  know  they  would  have  liked  to  do  so, 

"Word  was  received  that  the  Indian  tribes  were  collect- 
ing in  the  Grande  Rouude  Valley  to  gather  camas  for  the 
Winter,  and  we  were  sent  in  to  rout  them.  We  were  100 
fighting  men  with  a  guard  of  75  men  with  the  pack  animals. 
It  was  night  when  we  reached  the  upper  end  of  the  valley 
and  we  weiit  into  camp  there.  A^'ery  foolishly  we  built  camp 
fires,  so  letting  the  Indians  know  where  we  were.  We  expected 
to  find  the  Indians  at  the  lower  passage  on  the  Grande  Rounde 
River,  and  in  the  morning  formed  in  line  and  started  for 
there.  Before  the  passage  was  reached  there  came  riding  one 
of  the  willow  trees  that  fringed  the  river  banks  an  Indian 
brave  in  war  paint.  In  his  hand  was  a  long  pole  on  which 
was  a  white  man's  scalp.  Riding  wnldly  around  in  front  of 
the  volunteers,  but  always  out  of  rifle  range,  the  Indian  gave 
his  war  whoop  and  waved  the  ghastly  trophy  as  a  tantalizing 
menace  before  our  boys.  jMy  comrade  all  through  the  war 
was  G.  C.  Blankenship,  and  a  finer  man  I  never  met.  This 
.sight  was  too  much  for  his  temper,  so  he  dashed  up  to  our 
comriianding  officer  and  plead:  'Col.  let  me  get  that  fellow'?' 
'Go  then,'  said  the  colonel,  'Get  him  if  you  can  while  he  is  in 
the  open,  but  do  not  follow  him  into  the  brush.'  Blankenship 
rode  out  after  the  Indian,  but  when  the  rascal  saw  he  was 
pursued  he  took  refuge  in  the  bushes  and  the  man  had  to 
return  to  his  company. 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  87 

"Dust  arising  from  tlie  plain  near  the  upper  crossing  of 
the  Grande  Rounde  was  seen,  and  Col.  Shaw  called  a  halt 
and  said:  'Boys,  thei'e  is  where  we  want  to  charge,  for  there 
is  where  the  Indian  train,  with  their  supplies,  are  trying  to  get 
out  of  the  valley.'  We  dashed  up  and  Col.  Shaw  dismounted 
fmd  went  into  the  bushes  where  he  could  see  up  and  down 
the  river.  A  man  named  Buchanan,  and  myself,  also  dis- 
mounted and  went  up  to  the  river,  leading  our  horses.  I  saw 
blood  on  Buchanan's  horse's  flank  and  said,  'We'd  better 
get  back  a  little.  Buck,'  which  we  did.  When  Col.  Shaw 
.ioined  us,  one  of  the  boys  said,  'What's  that  on  your  coat 
collar,  Colonel?'  He  looked,  and  there  -was  a  bullet  hole  clear 
through  the  cloth  and  another  one  through  the  skirt  of  h^'s 
r-oat.  The  Indians  were  poor  shooters  and  couldn't  hit  any- 
thing a  few  yards  away. 

"We  crossed  the  river  and  the  Indians  fired  on  us  as  we 
were  fording,  but  no  one  was  killed,  although  we  got  three 
or  four  of  their  men.  As  expected,  we  found  the  pack  train 
with  the  women  and  papooses.  The  ponies  were  loaded  with 
camas  and  the  next  day  we  had  a  burning  and  destroyed  at 
least  200  bushels  of  roots. 

"This  was  the  Indians'  last  struggle  against  the  whites. 
By  destroying  their  winter's  supplies  they  were  rendered  help- 
less. They  couldn't  fight  on  empty  stomachs  and  so  we  con- 
<juered  them. 

"That  the  Indian  war  was  hastened  and  fostered  by  the 
Hudson  Bay  people  there  is  little  doubt.  At  that  time  Eng- 
land claimed  all  this  country  from  the  Canadian  possessions  to 
ihe  Columbia  river,  and  the  ever  increasing  number  of  Ameri- 
cans coming  to  settle  the  Northwest  threatened  to  ])ut  under 
the  plow  land  that  the  Hudson  Bay  sheep  men  were  accustomed 
to  look  upon  as  their  legitimate  pasturage,  so  they  aided  the 
Indians  with  arms  and  sn])plies  in  a  struggle  to  maintain  con- 
trol of  the  country. 

"Governor  Stevens  sent  his  clerk  out  once  to  visit  the  In- 
dian camps  to  see  if  he  could  find  evidence  of  aid  to  the  Indians 
from  this  source.  I  was  sent  along,  with  others,  as  a  guai-d. 
We  found  empty  sacks  and  cans  with  the  Hudson  Bay  let- 
tering on  them,  jn'oving  conclusively  where  mncli  of  the  su])- 
I'ort  the  Indiaiis  received  came  from. 


8g  THURSTON  COUNTY 

"I  must  tell  one  other  incident  of  the  war.  While  we  were 
camped  on  Tenalqiiot  prairie,  at  the  fort  there,  and  the  volun- 
teer troops  were  assembling-,  myself  and  seven  other  men  were 
sent  to  Olympia  for  supplies.  We  were  on  horseback  and  had 
just  come  out  on  Long  prairie  when  we  spied  a  party  of  75 
Indians  coming-  towards  us.  That  they  were  armed,  we  could 
see,  for  the  sun  glittered  on  their  guns.  We  held  a  hurried 
lonsuitation  and  decided  that  as  we  were  mounted  and  the 
Indians  were  on  foot  Ave  would  go  a  bit  closer  to  see  what  was 
doing,  although  we  intended  keeping  well  out  of  rifle  shot. 
It  i)roved  to  be  the  Squaxon  Indian  tribe,  under  leadership 
of  Indian  Agent  Gosnald,  coming  to  join  forces  with  the 
volunteers  to  fight  the  hostiles.  When  they  saw  us  eight 
men  ride  up  single  file  to  meet  their  army  of  75,  they  broke 
into  a  perfect  bedlam,  they  were  so  excited.  'Wliat's  the  usC; 
Indian  fight  white  man,'  their  chief  said,  'one  white  man  not 
afraid  ten  Indians.'  And  that  was  always  the  way  it  was. 
We  never  thought  it  was  possible  that  the  Indians  could  lick 
us.  When  Ave  went  doAA-n  into  the  Grande  Rounde  after  thera 
Ave  Avere  only  TOO  fighting  men,  not  counting  the  75  men  in 
charg-e  of  the  pack  train,  and  there  Avere  l.OOG  Indian  Avarriors 
against  us.    But  AA-e  Avere  ncA^er  afraid,  and  so  aa'ou  the  struggle. 

"When  Ave  Avere  on  the  campaign  one  of  the  pleasant  recol- 
lections of  this  grim  time  Avas  the  cooking  my  comrade, 
G.  C.  Blankenship.  did  for  the  mess.  The  men  Avere  supposed 
to  take  turns  in  this  task  but  after  they  had  all  been  tried 
out,  Mr.  Blankenship  proved  so  superior  in  the  culinary  art 
that  he  was  made  chief  cook  for  the  rest  of  the  campaign. 
He  would  bpen  a  sack  of  flour,  mix  up  a  batch  of  bread  Avith 
his  sour  doug-h  'starting'  and  AA'hen  that  bread  was  baked  in 
the  camp  oven  Avith  plenty  of  bacon  grease  it  Avas  a  delight 
to  the  hungry  men.  One  day,  to  vary  the  menu  our  cook  rolled 
some  sugar  in  the  dough,  cut  it  into  little  pieces  and  fried 
these  in  bacon  grease.  The  result  Avas  the  best  doughnuts  man 
ever  tasted — or  so  Ave  thought  at  the  time.  When  I  got  home 
T  tried  them  to  show  my  Avomen  folks  hoAv,  but  they  didn't 
taste  so  good.  With  this  bread,  doughnuts  and  bacon,  beans 
and  cotfee,  Ave  fared  Avell  on  the  trip. 

"After  the  Avar  Avas  over  I  Avas  appointed  Indian  Agent 
under  General  R.  H.  Milroy,  and  became  Avell  acquainted  Avith 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  89 

the  Lidians,  I  could  speak  their  language  and  had  many 
friends  among  them.  I  have  worked  as  cabinet  maker  and 
carpenter  for  years  in  Olympia,  and  once  went  to  Salem,  Ore- 
gon, where  1  was  engaged  in  a  sash  and  door  factory  for  three 
years,  but  always  came  back  to  this  town." 

Here  Mr.  Beatty  ceased  his  talk  and  asked  to  be  excused 
while  his  wife  proceeded  with  the  narrative. 

"With  my  uncle,  Rev.  Geo.  F.  Whitworth,  and  my  aunt, 
Eliza  Whitworth,  and  her  mother,  Mrs.  Sarah  Thompson,  my 
sister  Sarah  and  the  four  young  Whitworth  ehiktren,  I  crossed 
the  plains  from  Connelton,  Indiana.  Grandmother  was  78 
years  old,  and  I  was  a  young  girl  of  sixteen. 

"The  way  I  happened  to  make  this  trip  was,  when  the 
Presbyterian  Board  of  Missionaries  sent  Uncle  Whitworth  out 
to  preach  the  Gospel  in  the  wilderness,  he  begged  father  to  let 
my  sister  Sarah  and  myself  come  along  as  company  for  Aunt 
Eliza  and  to  help  take  care  of  our  grandmother.  Of  course,  I 
was  to  go  back  in  a  year  or  tAvo,  but  it  has  been  over  sixty 
years  since  I  made  that  journey  and  1  have  never  been  back 
yet. 

"We  had  no  special  hardships  on  the  trip,  other  than 
was  to  be  expected  from  camping  out  for  so  long  a  time  and 
the  fatigue  of  constant  but  slow  travelling,  for  we  had  ox 
teams.  There  were  40  wagons  in  our  train,  and  so,  owing  to 
our  considerable  numbers,  we  were  not  molested  by  the  lu- 
ll ians,  although  once  we  Avere  followed  150  miles  by  a  band 
of  warriors,  who  told  us  they  intended  killing  every  one  of 
our  party  in  revenge  for  the  death  of  one  of  their  number, 
which  had  occurred  shortly  before.  An  emigrant  in  a  train 
fihead  of  ours  had  shot  and  killed  the  Indian,  The  brave  who 
came  into  our  camp  to  tell  us  of  their  intentions  amused  him- 
self by  marking  off  with  stakes  in  the  ground  the  length  of 
the  graves  he  informed  us  we  would  soon  occupy  when  they 
had  finished  us.  But  they  never  seemed  to  find  the  weak  spot 
in  our  defense  and  finally  gave  over  following  us.  When  we 
reached  the  Snake  river  we  waited  for  other  teams  along  the 
road  to  join  us  for  further  protection.  Two  wagons  came 
along  the  trail  with  their  beds  completely  riddled  from  the 
Indians'  bullets.     They  had  been  attacked  by  a  roving  band, 


90  THURSTON  COUNTY 

one  of  the  children  killed  and  an  attempt  made  to  stampede 
their  stock.     Tliey  were  a  sorry-looking  outfit. 

"Uncle  Whitworth  would  have  no  Sunday  traveling,  and 
the  train  was  always  halted  on  this  day,  and  we  laid  by  for 
rest,  and  generally  held  some  kind  of  worship.  But  w^hen  we 
reached  the  Blue  oMountains  the  supplies  were  running  so  low 
that  the  other  people  in  the  train  determined  to  travel  all 
day  Sunday.  We  started  up  the  Blue  JMountains  on  this  par- 
ticular Sabbath  day,  which  was  the  first  we  had  failed  to 
properly  observe.  When  we  were  rounding  a  canyon  I  was 
driving  the  oxen  on  one  side  anci  my  sister  on  the  other  to 
keep  them  in  the  narrow  road.  The  front  yoke  deliberately 
walked  off  over  the  edge  of  the  precipice.  The  rigging  gave 
way  and  left  a  single  yoke  of  young  oxen  to  hold  the  wagon 
from  slipping  back  down  the  hillside.  These  animals  strained 
till  their  horns  w^ere  buried  in  the  dust  of  the  road,  and  they 
were  brought  to  their  knees  before  the  wagon  could  be 
stopped.  That  was  our  first  Sunday  trial.  As  evening  came 
en  Uncle  Whitworth  had  to  take  our  big  wagon  and  strike 
out  to  the  river,  twelve  miles  away,  leaving  Aunt  Eliza,  one  of 
the  children  and  me  to  guard  the  other  wagon.  We  were 
frightened,  for  the  coyotes  were  howling  round  and  it  was  a 
fearsome  spot.  William  Mitchell,  who  was  wnth  our  train, 
heard  of  our  being  left  behind  alone  and  rode  back  to  stay 
with  us  till  Uncle  Whitworth  could  return.  We  were  so  glad 
to  see  him  and  appreciated  his  thoughtfulness. 

"When  we  reach  Portland,  Uncle  Whitworth  came  on  up 
to  Fort  Steilacoom  to  take  up  his  missionary  labors.  He  found 
an  Episcopal  minister  already  stationed  at  the  fort,  and  doing 
such  a  noble  work  that  there  seemed  to  be  no  field  of  labor 
there  for  any  other  minister.  But  in  Olympia  there  was  a 
good  opening,  and  it  seemed  to  him  that  he  could  do  a  great 
deal  of  good  in  this  new  place,  so  decided  to  locate  here.  There 
was  scarcely  anybody  living  here  then,  the  settlement  being 
mostly  at  Tumwater,  but  at  what  is  now  known  as  Priest's 
Point  some  Catholic  fathers  had  established  a  mission. 

"Uncle  took  up  a  donation  claim  on  land  adjoining  the 
mission  property,  Iniilt  a  temporary  home  for  his  family  and 
])egan  his  missionary  labors.  He  organized  the  First  Presby- 
terian church  in  Olympia,   also  at  Chehalis,   and  the  one  on 


PIONEER   REMINISCENCES  91 

Chambers  prairie.  Riding  for  miles  to  carry  the  gospel  wher- 
ever a  few  were  congregated,  sometimes  being  obliged  to  teach 
school  to  support  his  family,  so  meager  was  the  pittance  al- 
lowed him  by  the  Presbytery,  and  so  poor  were  his  congrega- 
tions. He  was  a  good  man  and  has  gone  to  a  well  earned 
reward. 

"Aunt  Eliza,  with  the  rest  of  the  family,  had  staj^ed  in 
Portland  the  first  winter  in  the  West,  while  Uncle  Whitworth 
was  locating  on  the  Sound.  Aunt  and  my  sister,  Sarah,  taught 
school  that  winter  to  pay  our  expenses. 

"In  Ma}'  of  the  following  summer  Uncle  came  to  bring  us 
to  our  new  home.  The  trip  in  the  Indian  canoes  up  the  Cow- 
litz river  was  one  of  the  most  thrilling  experiences  of  my  life. 
J  was  totally  unused  to  water,  and  although  the  canoes  were 
large,  they  looked  dangerous  to  me.  Indeed,  one  of  the  canoes 
was  upset  and  we  lost  all  our  bread  and  dishes,  although  the 
latter  were  recovered  after  several  weeks  and  sent  on  to  us. 
We  found  refuge  the  night  we  reached  the  landing  in  the 
home  of  ^Ir.  Lemon,  whose  son  is  now  ]Millard  Lemon,  the 
Olympia  capitalist. 

"We  were  met  at  the  landing  by  Judge  B.  F.  Yantis  with 
an  ox  team  to  bring  us  to  our  new  home.  As  we  had  to  camp 
out  along  the  way  from  the  Cowlitz  to  Olympia,  the  loss  of 
our  dishes  was  very  inconvenient.  Judge  Yantis  searched 
among  the  ranch  houses  to  find  cups  for  us  to  drink  out  of, 
but  all  the  dishes  he  could  procure  were  three  small  sugar 
bowls  of  thick  earthenware.  These  the  elders  used  for  drink- 
ing cups,  but  we  younger  ones  had  to  use  egg  shells  from 
which  to  drink  our  coffee.  But  we  enjoyed  the  experience  and 
thought  coffee  never  tasted  so  good. 

"We  had  one  scare  as  a  Avelcome  to  the  new  country.  At 
the  Cowlitz  landing  were  a  number  of  Indian  tents  and  in  them 
were  some  very  sick  squaws  and  pappooses.  Harry  Whit- 
Avorth,  then  about  nine  years  old,  went  in  among  them,  carry- 
ing them  water  and  tending  them  until  way  in  the  night.  Later 
it  developed  that  the  disease  with  which  the  Indians  were  ill 
was  smallpox,  and  that  in  the  most  virulent  form.  So  severe 
did  the  disease  rage  that  that  particular  band  of  Indians  was 
slmost  lost.    We  watched  Harry  with  great  uneasiness  till  the 


92  THURSTON    COUNTY 

clanger  period  was  safely  over.  I  suppose  the  fresh  air  and 
pur  perfect  health  prevented  our  taking  the  disease. 

"When  we  reached  Tuinwater  Judge  Yantis,  who  was  al- 
wavs  full  of  his  fun  and  iokes,  took  Sarah  and  me  to  visit  an 
Indian  camp,  to  see  what  he  told  us  would  be  our  eatables 
from  now  on.  They  had  just  finished  drying  and  hanging  up 
a  string  of  geoducks.  The  long  necks  and  scaly  looking  bodies 
of  this,  tp  us.  new  species  of  salt  water  products,  did  not  look 
very  inviting. 

"From  Tumwater  we  took  canoes  for  Priests  Point,  where 
I^ncle's  claim  was.  If  I  was  frightened  before,  imagine  my 
sensations  when  I  was  placed  in  a  tiny  craft  that,  when  T 
was  in  with  my  Indian  paddler,  was  only  about  one  inch 
above  the  water  of  Puget  Sound.  When  we  reached  the  point 
belovv'  the  mission  all  our  household  goods  we  had  with  us 
had  to  be  carried  by  hand  up  the  hill  to  our  home.  Grand- 
mother, who  had  shared  in  all  our  adventures,  could  not  climb 
up  there,  however,  so  sister  Sarah  and  myself  put  her  in  the 
little  old  rocking  chair  we  had  brought  clear  from  our  old 
home  in  Indiana  for  her  to  sit  in  and  carried  her  up  the  hill 
and  the  ciuarter  of  a  mile  to  where  our  house  stood.  This 
house  was  but  a  shack  16x16  built  of  poles  and  covered,  sides 
and  all.  with  cedar  bark.  There  was  a  fireplace  in  one  end 
three  or  four  feet  across  and  one  of  the  most  joyous  objects 
we  had  beheld  for  a  long  time. 

"The  good  fathers  at  the  mission  were  our  only  neigh- 
bors, and  the  wopds  came  close  to  our  shack.  In  our  imme- 
diate neighborhood  was  an  Indian  burial  place,  the  bodies 
lianging  in  the  branches  of  the  tall  trees,  laid  in  canoes.  It 
was  to  us  a  fearsome  sight,  but  Ave  became  accustomed  to  it, 
and  did  not  mind  it  after  a  while.  Indeed,  we  much  preferred 
these  dead  Indians  to  some  of  those  still  alive,  for  it  was 
at  this  time  that  the  Indian  trouble  was  on. 

"That  summer  Uncle  raised  quite  an  amount  of  potatoes 
and,  as  we  had  no  cellar,  was  at  loss  where  tp  stpre  them,  until 
&pmeone  pointed  out  that  in  the  field  where  he  was  clearing 
there  were  a  number  of  big  trees,  the  roots  of  which  had  been 
burned  into,  leaving  hollows  and  thus  forming  excellent  places 
for  storing  the  potatoes. 

"As  a  variation  of  our  diet  we  used  to  put  up  the  wild 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  93 

berries  we  found  growing  here  in  profusion.  As  sugar  was 
scarce  and  very  expensive  we  used  wild  honey  as  the  preserva- 
tive. Honey  bee  trees  were  frequently  located,  and  it  was 
one  of  the  sports  of  the  time  to  cut  one  down  and  secure  the 
sweets  stored  in  the  hollow  trunk.  We  had  rough  and  tumble 
times,  but  good  times  withal.  Life  was  full  of  snap  and  en- 
joyment in  simple  pleasures.  We  had  our  mail  about  every 
six  weeks,  and  for  the  first  few  years  all  our  supplies  came 
from  the  Sandwich  Islands.  It  was  a  great  day  when  we 
began  to  get  things  in  from  San  Francisco ;  we  began  to  feel 
quite  civilized.  I  remember  the  first  apples  ever  grown  in 
Thurston  County.  They  were  grown  on  a  tree  planted  by  ]\Ir. 
Axtel,  on  Grand  Mound  prairie.  Mrs.  Axtel  told  the  boys 
that  if  they  did  not  touch  the  fruit  when  it  was  ripe  she  would 
make  them  a  pie.  They  obeyed  and  when  that  pie  was  made, 
so  precious  were  the  apples  they  went  in,  peel  and  all. 
No  wasting  good  fruit  by  taking  off  even  the  thinnest  peeling. 

"We  lived  in  the  shack  Uncle'  Whitworth  had  provided 
for  us  for  quite  a  while,  but  finally  we  were  ready  for  a  new 
house,  so  comes  from  Olympia  David  Beatty  and  A.  J.  Lin- 
ville,  carpenters,  to  build  our  new  house.  And  that  is  the 
time  and  the  place  I  met  ^Ir.  Beatty.  These  men  cut  down 
trees  from  the  land  around  the  site  of  the  new  house,  split 
them  into  boards  and  planed  out  the  weather  boarding,  all 
by  hand.  They  made  a  very  creditable  and  comfortable  resi- 
dence, which  we  appreciated  after  our  crowded  quarters.  We 
sent  for  our  household  furnishings,  books,  etc.,  which  came 
around  the  Horn,  and  from  San  Francisco  were  sent  on  l)y 
sailing  vessels  to  this  port. 

"As  the  Indians  were  getting  ti"ou])lesome  Uncle  Whit- 
Avorth  asked  the  mission  fathers  if  they  considered  our  situa- 
tion dangerous.  They  replied,  'Not  yet,  we  will  give  you 
warning,  if  it  becomes  so,  in  time  for  you  to  go  to  the  stock- 
ade in  Olympia.'  In  about  two  weeks  this  warning  was  given 
and  we  fled  to  town.  Again  we  carried  grandmother  in  her 
little  chair  to  the  water  and  set  her  into  a  canoe.  We  found 
j-cfuge  in  two  rooms  over  ]\Ir.  Beatty 's  shop.  These  rooms 
had  been  fitted  up  as  a  photograph  gallery  by  Samuel  Holmes 
father  of  Fred   Holmes  and   ]\Irs.  Robert   Frost,   and   was  the 


94 


THURSTON  COUNTV 


first  art  gallery  in  the  X'orthwest.  I  slept  right  under  the 
big  skylight  in  the  roof. 

"Mr.  Beatty  and  I  were  married  in  185G  after  the  Indian 
war  was  over.  We  at  one  time  took  up  a  homestead  of  160 
acres  on  Ayers'  Hill,  Joining  Swan's  donation  claim.  ^Ir, 
Beatty  built  a  cabin  on  one  side  of  a  stream  that  flowed  there 
then,  and  his  partner,  Mr.  Linville,  lived  on  the  other  side  of 
the  stream,  but  it  was  so  lonesome  and  the  trees  were  so  for- 
midable that  the  places  were  abandoned.  The  timber  alone, 
in  after  j'ears  on  those  claims,  would  have  been  worth  a 
fortune. 

"Uncle  Whitworth,  Aunt  Eliza,  the  grandmother,  Sister 
Sarah,  all  are  gone.  I  can  think  of  no  one  of  my  associates  of 
those  early  days  who  is  still  living.  Our  daughter  Adelaide. 
i>:  the  only  child  we  have  ever  had." 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  95 


MRS,  JOHN  G.  PARKER 


Have  yon  ever  opened  a  long-forgotten  desk  and  taken  out 
n  packet  of  letters  tied  with  faded  blue  ribbon,  and  caught 
the  sweet,  evanescent  perfume  of  rose  leaves  and  violets  which 
have  been  put  away  ])y  hands  which  have  long  since  finished 
their  earthly  tasks?  Such  were  the  sensations  of  the  compiler 
of  these  reminiscences  when  journeying  back  to  the  days  of  long 
tgo  with  ]Mrs.  John  G.  Parker.  Sweet  and  full  of  girlish  ro- 
mance were  the  memories  evoked  of  conquests,  triumphs  and 
innocent  coquetry  of  this  belle  of  Olympia  of  the  early  '50 's, 
although  the  dear  old  lady  could  also  tell  of  hardships  and 
privations  that  would  undoubtedly  crush  a  girl  of  modern 
days. 

In  Mrs.  Parker's  words  will  her  story  be  told,  for  they 
were  more  eloquent  and  expressive  than  any  at  my  command, 
but  the  reader  will  miss  the  inspiration  of  watching  the  deli- 
cate color  come  and  go  in  the  faded  but  still  lovely  face,  of 
listening  to  the  gentle  voice  thrill  and  tremble  over  the  ex- 
citing or  sorrowful  portions  of  the  narrative,  of  being  taken 
back  to  the  actual  scenes  and  experiences  of  those  days  that 
are  no  more. 

"When  I  was  a  young  girl  of  a  little  less  than  sixteen 
years  of  age,  living  in  Saline  County,  Missouri,  my  father, 
Gilmore  Hays,  decided  to  leave  the  old  homestead  and  take 
his  family  out  to  Oregon,  as  all  this  section  of  the  country 
was  then  called.  Father  had  been  out  West  before  and  knew 
that  the  land  was  full  oi  richness  and  opportunities  for  amass- 
ing wealth  such  as  would  never  be  found  in  the  more  settled 
country.  There  were  six  boys  in  our  family  and  father 
1  bought  they  would  stand  a  better  chance  to  get  on  in  the 
world  when  the  time  came  for  them  to  branch  out  for  them- 
selves in  the  new  country.  Father's  enthusiasm  spread  to  a 
lot  of  our  kinsfolks  and  tlun'  decided  to  join  our  train  and 
cross  the  plains  with  us. 


<J6  THURSTON   COUNTY 

"I  can't  tell  now  just  how  many  -wagons  there  wei-e  in 
line  when  we  pulled  out  for  our  start  for  the  long  journey 
over  the  Oregon  Trail.  But  the  ones  whom  I  am  able  to  re- 
call were  the  family  of  Dr.  N.  Ostrander,  Uncle  Frank  Yantis 
with  his  family,  George  Scott  and  wife,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hillory 
Butler,  my  father's  brother  Isaac  Hays,  Rev.  Lapsley  Yantis 
and  many  others. 

'"The  tirst  stages  of  the  trip  were  full  of  pleasure  and  de- 
light, especially  to  us  younger  members  of  the  train.  Although 
the  greater  part  of  the  w^agons  were  drawn  by  yokes  of  oxen 
and  perforce  the  travel  w^as  slow,  ^ve  younger  ones  had  each 
»'Ur  oAvn  pony  and  would  ride  far  in  advance  of  the  train,  pick 
cut  a  good  camping  place  where  there  was  wood,  water  and 
grass  for  the  animals.  Here  we  would  dismount  and  the  young 
men  proceed  to  collect  piles  of  wood  for  the  camp  fires  in  the 
evening  while  we  girls  would  skylark  around,  pick  flowers 
and  rest  beneath  the  trees  by  the  side  of  the  beautiful  streams 
which  we  frecj[uently  were  fortunate  enough  to  find  for  our 
tamping  place.  When  the  wagons  would  pull  in  tow^ards 
evening  it  was  a  hurry-up  to  get  supper,  turn  out  the  stock 
and  then  all  hands  gather  around  the  enormous  eampfires 
where  merry  jest,  songs  and  cheerful  companionship  banished 
every  thought  of  homesickness  or  foreboding.  We  had  several 
violins,  a  banjo  and  many  fine  voices  in  the  party,  so  music 
was  enjoyed  almost  every  evening. 

"I  must  fell  you  about  my  pony.  She  was  the  fastest  ani- 
mal in  the  train,  a  perfect  beauty  and  a  great  pet,  and  an 
animal  of  more  than  ordinary  intelligence.  So  speedy  wa*? 
she  that  the  hunters  always  borrowed  her  w^hen  they  wanted 
to  run  down  a  buffalo  to  replenish  our  supply  of  fresh  meat. 
One  day  I  was  in  a  pet  towards  the  other  girls  in  the  train, 
Sarah  Yantis  and  her  sister.  Mrs.  PuIIen,  (these  girls  were 
afterwards  ^Irs.  G.  C.  Blankenship  and  Mrs.  Dick  Wood), 
So  I  told  them  to  ride  on  and  I  would  waif  for  the  wagons,  let- 
ting my  pony  eat  by  the  road  side.  As  soon  as  they  had  dis- 
appeared along  the  trail  I  dismounted  and  sat  down  in  the 
grass.  That  pony  would  scarcely  eat  a  mouthful  so  intently 
rid  she  watch,  looking  all  around  for  possible  danger.  When 
the  wagons  came  on  up  and  father  saw  me  there  alone  he 
scolded  me  good  and  hard  and  said  the  horse  show^ed  a  good 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  97 

deal  more  sense  than  I  did.  But  some  way  I  Avas  never  in  the 
least  afraid  of  the  Indians  and  thought  the  tales  I  heard  of 
their  cruelty  and  treachery  were  mostly  imaginary.  I  was 
to  learn  better  a  few  years  afterwards  during  the  Indian  war 
in  Washington. 

"Well,  all  went  merry  as  a  marriage  bell  until  we  reached 
Fort  Laramie.  Here  was  the  parting  of  the  ways.  Uncle 
Lapsley  Yantis  was  a  Presbyterian  minister  and  as  good  a 
man  as  ever  trod  the  earth,  and  he  was  strong  for  whatever 
he  considered  to  be  the  right,  and  to  travel  on  the  Sabbath 
day  was  not  right  according  to  his  views.  Father  was  also 
a  good  man  but  he  was  more  practical  and  had  different  ideas 
from  Uncle  Lapsley.  He  reasoned  that  even  if  the  train  did 
lay  over  and  not  travel  on  Sundays  that  the  emigrants  would 
probably  not  observe  the  day  any  better  than  those  who  pushed 
on  toward  their  journey's  end.  The  women  w^ould  bake,  wash, 
etc.,  and  the  young  folks  get  into  various  kinds  of  mischief, 
but  m.ost  weighty  argument  of  all,  the  cattle  would  become 
so  scattered  in  a  whole  day's  and  two  nights'  layoff  that,  in 
his  judgment,  it  was  better  to  keep  going.  The  leaders  couldn't 
agree,  so  the  train  was  divided,  some  going  on  with  father  and 
the  remainder  staying  Avith  the  Sabbath  keepers.  Was  it  a 
judgment  from  God  that  as  soon  as  the  decision  was  made 
and  we  began  to  fail  in  Sabbath  observance  dire  calamity  be- 
fell us?  It  certainly  looked  so.  Soon  after  the  separation  we 
overtook  an  emigrant  wagon  in  which  was  a  sick  boy.  Mother 
offered  her  services  to  the  parents  of  the  lad  and  did  what  she 
<:ould  do  for  them  in  the  way  of  nursing  and  simple  remedies 
to  relieve  the  lad's  fever.  Little  did  she  suspect  the  nature 
of  the  disease  she  came  in  contact  with.  About  ten 
days  after  encountering  the  sick  boy  she  was  taken  down  with 
a  raging  fever  which  soon  developed  into  a  severe  case  of  black 
measles.  Soon  nearly  all  the  young  people  of  the  train  w^ere 
inflicted  with  the  dread  disease.  Of  my  six  brothers  one  after 
another  died  till  three  graves  were  made  along  the  roadside. 
But  before  Brother  Henry  died  mother,  too,  was  taken.  Henry 
seemed  to  be  getting  over  the  measles  and  we  hoped  for  a 
time  he  might  be  spared  us.  One  night,  after  convalescence 
had  set  in,  we  were  sitting  around  the  campfire,  no  longer  glee- 
ful   and   singing,   but   oppressed   with    our    dreadful     sorrow. 


98  THURSTON  COUNTY 

Henry  was  well  enough  then  to  eat  some  ham  which  I  had 
cooked  for  supper.  After  eating  he  complained  of  a  terrible 
thirst  and  kept  drinking  water.  Soon  cramps  set  in  and  he 
was  dead  before  morning.  I  thought  father  would  go  crazy 
at  this  terrible  last  blow. 

"We  reached  Salmon  Falls  in  Idaho  before  mother  died, 
and  although  I  did  not  know  of  it  till  a  year  afterwards  when 
I  again  met  my  cousin,  Sarah  Yantis.  in  Olympia,  I  must  tell 
of  her  resting  place.  We  had  to  roll  the  body  in  a  blanket — 
there  was,  of  course,  no  way  to  make  even  the  rudest  coifin, 
and  after  the  mortal  remains  of  our  dear  mother  had  been 
covered  the  best  we  could,  father  took  off  a  piece  of  the  end 
board  of  the  wagon  and  wrote  her  name,  Naomi  Hayes,  on  it. 
Then  we  had  to  go  on  and  leave  her  there. 

"Well,  when  Uncle  Lapsley's  train  came  along  several 
days  after  we  were  on  our  way,  they  espied  a  newly  made 
grave  beside  the  road  and  on  going  to  it  read  mother's  name. 
Mrs.  Yantis,  who  was  very  delicate  and  suffering  from  the 
hardships  of  the  trip,  had  become  very  ill  on  the  way.  When 
she  knew  that  her  old  friend  was  buried  there  she  lost  all 
hope,  and  although  the  train  made  a  couple  of  stages  further 
on  their  way,  the  poor  lady  was  unable  to  stand  the  shock  and 
sank  to  rest.  Her  last  words  were  'Take  me  back  to  sleep 
beside  Naomi.'  Her  broken  hearted  husband  and  children 
respected  these  last  words  and  retracing  their  way  to  where 
mother  was  laid,  buried  her  there  and  beneath  mother's  name 
wrote  'Ann  Yantis.'  And  there  they  sleep  side  by  side.  Ah, 
it  was  a  hard  and  bitter  time. 

"After  the  death  of  my  third  brother  father  decided  that 
the  time  had  come  to  do  something,  so  he  had  one  of  the  lighter 
wagons  emptied  of  all  but  our  actual  necessities  for  light 
camping  and  hitching  the  freshest  of  the  mules  to  the  wagon, 
started  my  brothers,  myself  and  some  other, women  and  children 
of  the  train  on  as  fast  as  the  animals  could  travel.  He  hoped 
we  could  reach  The  Dalles  and  so  on  to  Portland  before  winter 
set  in. 

"AVhen  we  reached  The  Dalles  we  women  and  children 
were  put  on  flat  boats  and  floated  down  to  the  Cascades.  Here 
we  were  obliged  to  walk  across  the  portage  to  the  landing 
and  then  take  a  little  steamboat  on  down  to  Portland. 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  99 

"At  this  place  I  was  met  by  an  uncle,  Andrew  Cowan, 
who  took  me  home  with  him  and  I  spent  the  winter  very  com- 
fortably with  my  uncle  and  aunt. 

"Portland  was  then  a  mere  village  with  a  two  plank 
sidewalk  extending  along  the  few  blocks  which  were  built  up, 
and  mud,  mud  everywhere.  It  was  certainly  the  muddiest, 
dirtiest  place  I  had  ever  seen  at  that  time. 

"When  father  finally  reach  The  Dalles  with  the  ox  teams 
he  bought  a  good  many  of  the  emigrants'  cattle  and  turned 
them  out  on  the  ranges  in  the  vicinity.  But. the  hard  luck 
Avith  which  he  had  been  followed  throughout  the  latter  part  of 
the  journey  still  pursued  the  poor  man. 

"One  of  the  coldest  winters  on  record  for  that  region 
set  in  and  the  cattle  were  caught  by  the  heavy  snows.  The 
beasts  were  weakened  anyway  with  their  thousands  of  miles 
travel  and  in  no  condition  to  withstand  the  rigors  of  the  cli- 
mate. There  was  no  hay  or  feed  to  be  bought  for  any  price 
so  almost  the  entire  drove  perished.  This  almost  bankrupted 
father  and  was  a  severe  blow  to  the  high  hopes  of  wealth  and 
prosperity  he  had  entertained  Avhen  he  started  from  Missouri. 
Four  of  his  family  left  back  on  the  plains,  his  money  spent 
for  the  cattle  and  four  helpless  children  on  his  hands.  For 
T  was  little  more  than  a  child  in  years  and  having  always 
lived  on  a  plantation  with  servants  to  do  everything  about 
the  house  and  mother  to  depend  on,  you  may  be  sure  I  was 
very  incapable  and  inexperienced. 

"Came  the  Spring  of  1852  and  father  was  restless  and 
wanting  to  go  on  to  the  promised  land — Puget  Sound — so 
chartering  a  flat  boat  to  take  us  up  the  Cowlitz  river  after 
we  left  the  steamboat  at  ]\Ionticello  landing,  we  were  again  on 
our  way. 

"The  memory  of  that  trip  will  be  with  me  as  long  as 
memory  lasts.  The  flat  boat,  loaded  with  our  very  few  house- 
hold effects,  was  poled  up  the  Cowlitz,  but  there  was  no  room 
on  the  boat  for  us  women  and  the  children,  so  there  was  noth- 
ing to  do  but  walk  along  the  trail.  This  trail  was  through, 
in  many  places,  brush  so  dense,  that  we  crawled  on  our  hands 
and  knees  to  get  along  at  all.  In  other  places  we  were  in 
mud  well  up  to  our  knees. 

"In   addition   to   this  I  had  to   carry   my  little  brother, 


100  THURSTON    COUNTY 

Eobert.  The  poor  little  fellow  was  only  three  years  old  and 
had  never  become  very  strong  from  his  attack  of  the  measles 
the  snmmer  before.  I,  too,  was  weak  and  sick  and  in  my 
mind  thought  I  was  not  long  for  this  world,  and  I  must  say, 
I  didn't  care  much,  life  seemed  so  full  of  trouble  and  hard- 
ship. When  we  reached  the  Cowlitz  landing  w^e  were  met  by 
mule  teams  which  had  been  sent  down  from  Olympia  to  haul 
our  freight.  The  wagons  were  so  filled  and  the  roads  in  such 
a  condition  that  I  still  had  to  walk  across  the  country  past 
Avhere  Chehalis  now  is  and  on  to  Mound  prairie.  My  com- 
panion on  this  dreary  jaunt  was  JMrs.  Hillory  Butler,  who  with 
her  husband  w^as  also  coming  to  the  Sound  with  us.  She  was 
very  kind  and  good  to  the  motherless  girl  and  helped  me  earrj^ 
my  little  brother.  Turn  and  turn  about  we  plodded  all  those 
weary  miles  through  knee-deep  mud,  hot,  tired  and  discouraged. 

"Coming  out  on  Mound  prairie  we  spied  a  cabin  in  a 
clearing.  The  eternal  feminine  asserted  itself  even  under  those 
distressing  conditions,  so  before  going  to  the  house  Mrs.  Butler 
and  myself  stopped  beside  a  stream  of  water  flowing  by  and 
wading  up  to  our  knees,  washed  the  bottoms  of  our  skirts  off 
the  best  we  could,  they  being  literally  caked  with  mud,  straight- 
ened our  hair  and  then  proceeded  to  the  house  where  we  pro- 
posed to  ask  shelter  for  the  night. 

"In  the  door  of  the  cabin  stood  the  fairest  sight  I  have 
ever  seen.  It  was  my  own  dear  cousin  and  chum,  Sarah  Yan- 
tis.  Imagine  the  greetings  received.  Although  over  fifty 
years  have  passed  over  my  head  since  then  and  I  have  changed 
from  a  pretty,  young  girl  to  a  great-grandmother,  I  still  re- 
call the  thrill  of  rapture  with  which  I  rushed  into  Sarah's 
arms  and  listened  to  her  dear  voice  once  again.  When  the 
train  w^as  divided  Uncle  Frank  Yantis  with  family  had  re- 
mained behind  and  on  reaching  Portland  had  proceeded 
straight  on  to  this  section  of  the  country.  He  had  taken  up 
a  donation  claim  out  on  the  prairie  and  was  comfortably 
settled. 

"We  rested  there  visiting  with  Uncle  Frank's  family  for 
a  while  and  then  came  on  to  Olympia. 

"Our  first  place  of  refuge  on  reaching  this  place  was  with 
a  bachelor  who  had  a  comfortable  log  cabin  a  couple  of  miles 
from  Newmarket — now  Tumwater.    This  man's  name  was  Ben- 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  101 

jamin  Gordon,  or  Old  Ben,  as  he  was  commonly  called,  and 
he  was  very  good  to  ns  all.  Aunt  and  Uncle  Andrew  Cowan 
had  come  to  this  section  of  the  country  with  us  and  for  quite 
a  while  we  all  lived  in  ^Ir.  Gordon's  cabin — the  Cowans,  all 
the  Hays  children  and  father,  when  he  was  at  home.  There 
was  a  garden  around  the  place  and  we  had  ail  the  milk  and 
butter  we  wanted  from  Mr.  Gordon's  cows. 

"I  began  to  grow  strong  and  well  again  and  life  opened 
up  many  fair  promises.  The  young  men  from  around  the 
country  began  to  find  their  way  to  the  cabin  and  I  had  a 
great  deal  of  attention  and  admiration.  There  were  only  four 
young  ladies  within  a  radius  of  many  miles,  Sarah  Yantis, 
Charlotte  and  Lucy  Barnes  and  myself.  The  young  men  used 
to  come  out  to  the  cabin  Sunday  afternoons  in  considerable 
numbers.  Those  who  had  riding  horses  would  ride  and  those 
who  had  not  would  walk  and  seem  to  think  nothing  of  the 
miles  traveled  over  the  trail  to  spend  a  few  hours  in  my  com- 
pany. There  was  generally  a  generous  supply  of  buttermilk 
on  hand  and  the  boys  made  the  excuse  that  it  was  for  this 
cooling  drink  they  had  come.  They  were  a  brave  lot  of  lads, 
gallant  and  stalwart.  I  felt  an  interest  and  friendship  for 
everyone  of  them.  Ah,  me.  where  are  they  now?  All,  all 
gone. 

"The  young  man  who  used  to  come  most  frequently  to  see 
me  was  young  Benton  Moses,  who  afterwards  married  my  dear 
friend,  Sarah  Yantis.  One  Sunday  when  Mr.  Moses  arrived  on 
his  usual  afternoon  visit  he  was  accompanied  by  another  young 
man  whom  he  introduced  as  John  Parker.  I  will  never  forget 
the  appearance  of  this  youth  that  day.  He  had  a  beautiful 
riding  horse,  which  he  managed  with  splendid  skill,  but  it  was 
his  getup  which  made  the  lasting  impression  on  me.  ]\Ir. 
Parker  had  a  trading  store  in  Olympia  and  carried  principally 
articles  for  barter  with  the  Indians.  From  this  stock  he  had 
selected  a  pair  of  riding  leggings  which  came  to  the  knees, 
on  his  feet  were  beaded  moccasins  and  on  his  head  was  a 
queer  looking  Scotch  cap.  He  made  a  great  impression  on 
my  young  fancy  even  at  this  first  visit.  Afterwards,  when 
he  became  a  regular  visitant  at  father's  house,  IMr.  Moses 
used  to  tell  with  much  glee  how  he  inveigled  Parker  to  th" 
cabin  with  tales  of  the  nice  fresh  buttermilk  to  be  had,  but 


102  THURSTON  COUNTY 

said  never  a  word  about  the  young  lady  who  would  pour  the 
buttermilk  for  him.  Mr.  Parker  at  that  time  was  extremely 
bashful  and  had  never  called  on  a  young  lady  before. 

"By  this  time  father  had  taken  up  his  donation  claim, 
which  is,  as  near  as  I  can  tell  now,  was  situated  where  the 
road  makes  its  first  turn  in  goiug  towards  the  Hays  school 
house  after  passing  the  Masonic  cemetery.  I  kept  house  for 
him  and  the  children  the  best  I  could.  Tom  Prather,  who 
was  a  distant  relative,  lived  with  us  part  of  the  time,  and  it 
was  he  who  taught  me  about  all  I  knew  about  cooking  and 
j^'-eneral  housework.  He  was  always  good  and  kind  to  all  of 
us  and  his  unfailing  friendship  has  been  one  of  the  brightest 
remembrances  of  my  life. 

"Olympia  then  was  merely  a  collection  of  shacks,  with 
only  two  or  three  places  of  business  of  any  kind.  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  George  Barnes  were  about  the  only  married  couple  here 
when  I  first  arrived,  although  others  soon  came.  Mr.  Parker's 
store  was  opposite  the  Pacific  House,  which  place  was  after- 
wards kept  by  Col.  Cock,  whose  .young  wife  became  one  of 
the  warmest  of  friends  to  both  myself  and  Sarah  Yantis.  We 
girls  used  to  go  in  to  stay  all  night  at  their  hotel  and  ^Irs. 
Cock  was  so  good  to  vis,  throwing  many  a  pleasant  time  our 
way. 

"About  the  only  amusement  we  young  folks  had  in  those 
dajs  was  hoi^seback  riding.  There  were  no  roads  and,  of 
course,  no  buggies  or  other  means  of  conveyance.  The  J^oung 
men  used  to  come  out  to  our  house  riding  one  horse  and  lead- 
ing another  for  me.  Later  I  learned  that  they  generally  bor- 
rowed Mr.  Parker's  horse  for  me  to  ride  on.  But  that  was 
before  we  had  met,  after  that  event  it  w^as  always  John  who 
would  come.  He  had  sent  to  San  Francisco  for  a  side  saddle 
for  me,  probably  the  first  article  of  that  description  in  the 
Northw'est.  One  of  those  three-horned  affairs  such  as  girls 
used  to  ride.  Sarah  could  ride  a  man's  saddle  with  perfect 
ease,  sitting  straight  as  an  arrow  and  graceful  as  a  reed,  but 
I  wanted  a  side  saddle.  I  never  saw  a  woman  ride  astride  in 
those  days  and  we  would  have  thought  it  a  very  immodest 
thing  to  do.  Times  have  changed  in  many  ways  since  I  was 
s.  girl. 

"But  I  must  tell  about  my  wedding.     I  had  lived  on  the 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  103 

homestead  about  two  years,  keeping  house  for  father  and  do- 
ing the  best  I  could  with  what  I  had  to  do  with.  Mr.  Parker 
had  kept  coming  to  see  me.  and  although  we  were  not  really 
engaged,  I  thought  we  would  be  married  some  time.  But 
there  Avas  nothing  definite.  Father  began  to  grow  restless 
?gain  and  wanted  to  go  back  east  once  more.  But  what  to 
do  with  me  and  the  boys?  He  talked  of  it  for  several  weeks, 
and  I  could  see  he  was  moody  and  uneasy.  ]\Iy  cousin,  Sarah, 
had  come  from  her  father's  home,  still  on  Mound  Prairie,  to 
>})end  a  few  days  with  me  and  we  were  planning  to  take  a 
horseback  ride  one  day  in  company  with  ]\Ir.  Parker  and  Mr. 
Closes,  who  were  coming  out  from  town  a  little  later.  Father 
had  gone  on  out  to  do  some  burning  on  the  land  he  was  clear- 
ing up  in  the  far  let.  so  I  was  surprised  when  he  came  back 
to  the  house  and  said  'Rushe,  get  me  some  hot  water  for  shav- 
ing and  put  me  out  a  clean  shirt.'  'Why,  father.'  I  said,  'are 
you  going  to  town?'  'No.'  he  replied,  'I  am  going  to  attend 
your  wedding.'  ']\Iy  wedding?'  I  gasped.  'Yes,  your  wed- 
ding. You  might  as  well  be  married  one  time  as  another, 
Parker  wants  you  and  I  want  to  go  east.'  I  was  almost  dumb 
with  astonishment  and  chagrin.  I  asked  Sarah  what  I  had 
better  do  and  she  very  strongly  counseled  me  not  to  listen  to 
such  a  proposition.  I  was  almost  distracted.  I  didn't  know 
what  to  do.  I  knew  I  loved  John  and  knew  that  he  loved 
me,  but  I  had  no  Avardrobe  and  was  not  ready  to  be  married. 
I  sat  down  by  the  fireplace  brooding  and  thinking,  when  ^Ir. 
Parker  arrived.  He  saw  at  once  something  was  the  matter 
and  asked  me  if  I  was  sick.  I  told  him  I  was  not  and  he 
would  have  to  ask  father  about  what  was  the  trouble.  He  went 
out  in  the  yard  and  hail  a  long  talk  with  father  and  then 
came  in  and  asked  me  to  sit  on  the  steps  of  the  doorway  with 
him  to  talk  matters  over.  He  said  he  Avanted  to  marry  me 
more  than  he  ever  had  wanted  anything  on  earth,  but  he  had 
hoped  to  get  in  a  little  better  financial  shape  before  asking  me 
to  cast  my  lot  with  his.  He  told  me  he  was  a  poor  man  and 
in  debt — a  former  partner  in  an  express  venture  had  ab- 
sconded with  $5,000,  for  which  loss  Mr.  Parker  became  per- 
sonally responsible.  'But,  Rushe.'  he  said,  'if  you  are  will- 
ing to  undertake  the  life  I  can  oft'cr  you  now  1  will  love  and 


104  THURSTON  COUNTY 

cherish  you  forever.'  And  so  I  agreed.  ]\Ir.  Parker  then  rode 
back  to  town  and  returned  with  Judge  Landers. 

"I  got  ready  the  best  I  could  and  Sarah  helped  me.  i\Iy 
best  dress  was  a  black  silk  which  I  had  made  with  a  low  cut 
neck  and  short  sleeves.  I  thought  I  looked  quite  nice  in  that 
dress  and  so  did  John.  Tom  Prather  cooked  our  wedding 
dinner  and,  besides  Sarah  as  attendant  at  the  wedding,  was 
Uncle  Frank  Yantis.  We  stayed  at  father's  house  the  first 
night  and  the  next  day  took  our  deferred  horseback  ride  to 
Mound  Prairie  and  that  was  our  wedding  trip. 

"Afterwards  w^e  went  to  housekeeping  in  a  little  cottage 
and  there  in  the  course  of  time  our  first  child  was  born,  our 
daughter  Helen,  now  Mrs.  Herbert  IMc^Micken. 

"Father  then  went  back  east,  but  returned  by  the  time 
of  the  Indian  war  in  1855.  He  organized  the  first  volunteer 
troops  in  the  Northwest  for  the  defense  of  the  settlers,  and 
was  honored  by  being  made  commander  of  the  united  volun- 
teer troops  before  the  w^ar  was  over. 

"My  cousin  Sarah  by  this  time  was  married  to  young  A. 
Benton  Moses  and  was  living  in  Olympia  also.  When  the  In- 
dian war  broke  out  ^Ir.  ]Moses  was  one  of  the  first  white  men 
to  lose  his  life  by  the  Indians.  He  was  killed  out  on  Connell 
Prairie  while  in  company  with  a  small  body  of  men  who  were 
going  to  join  the  volunteers.  The  others  were  obliged  to  flee 
for  their  own  lives  and  leave  the  poor  lad  there  on  the  prairie. 
He  was  wounded  but  not  killed  outright.  When  he  fell  from 
his  horse  he  begged  his  companions  to  save  themselves  and 
sent  a  loving  message  to  his  young  girl  bride.  A  few  days 
later  Tom  Prather  and  a  small  company  of  men  went  out 
and  brought  the  body  back  to  Olympia. 

"Never  will  I  forget  the  tragedy  of  that  funeral.  Besides 
Mr.  Moses  there  were  the  bodies  of  Lieutenant  McAllister  and 
Col.  Miles,  who  were  also  killed  at  the  same  time.  These 
bodies,  placed  in  rude  coffins,  were  placed  in  one  of  the  two 
wagons  in  the  settlement.  In  the  other  wagon  rode  Sarah, 
Mrs.  Cock  and  myself,  the  men  walking  in  a  procession  be- 
hind the  wagons.  Our  wagon  was  without  springs  of  any 
kind  and  such  as  are  used  to  haul  dirt  in.  There  were  no 
seats  and  only  some  boards  laid  across  the  bed.  Several  times 
these  boards  slipped  off  and  let  the  mourners  down  in  thi^ 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  105 

bottom  of  the  wagon  bed  The  day  was  dark  and  dreary  and 
the  road  but  little  more  than  a  rough  trail.  It  was  a  terribh.' 
experience.  To  do  honor  to  the  brave  boys  who  had  lost  their 
lives  in  the  attempt  to  protect  others,  the  citizens  decided  that 
a  military  funeral  was  proper,  so  music  must  be  included. 
This  consisted  of  a  drum  and  fife.  As  we  wended  our  way 
out  to  the  graveyard  over  and  over  again  did  this  drum  and 
fife  sound  out  the  strains  of  'The  Girl  I  Left  Behind  Me.' 
That  was  the  only  tune  they  could  play  and  they  did  the 
best  they  could,  but  I  thought  Sarah's  heart  would  surely 
break.  The  graveyard  was  the  one  out  on  the  road  leading 
to  what  is  now  Little  Rock,  near  Belmore.  Here  the  three 
graves  were  made  close  to  the  road,  side  by  side.  And  here 
soon  after  was  laid  the  remains  of  Chas.  H.  Mason,  the  first 
Secretary  of  the  Territory,  a  gallant  young  man  of  goou 
i'amily,  who  died  of  fever  when  only  29  years  of  age.  I  think  the 
Thurston  County  Historical  Society  could  do  no  better  work 
than  mark  the  last  resting  place  of  these  heroes  of  the  Indian 
war. 

"But  enough  of  these  sad  reminiscences.  I  will  now  tell 
about  when  the  first  State  ball  was  held  in  Washington.  It 
was  in  the  nature  of  a  housewarming.  when  Governor  and  ]\Irs. 
Stevens  moved  into  the  Governor's  mansion,  which  the  Ex- 
ecutive officer  had  built  soon  after  the  arrival  of  his  family 
from  the  East.  This  very  same  house  is  still  standing  on  the 
l)lock  now  owned  by  Mr.  Hazard  Stevens,  on  Eleventh  street, 
lietween  ]\Iain  and  Columbia.  It  was  considered  quite  a  pala- 
tial residence  when  it  was  completed,  and  the  invitations 
to  attend  the  housewarming  were  eagerly  accepted  by  Oiympia 
society.  Almost  every  one  was  present.  Sarah  and  I  with 
our  beaux  attended.  The  night  was  dark  and  the  trail  rough, 
so  lanterns  were  hung  every  few  feet  in  the  branches  of 
the  trees  to  guide  us  to  tlie  mansion.  There  was  a  dance  fol- 
lowing the  reception  and  then  a  big  supper.  The  dance  was 
held  in  the  parlor  of  the  house  and  if  room  was  scarce  the 
jollity  and  good  fellowship  made  up  for  all  shortcomings.  I 
think  I  can  say  that  in  the  long  and  brilliant  line  of  legisla- 
tive balls  and  receptions  that  has  followed  this  initial  one. 
there  has  never  been  more  genuine  happiness  and  enjoyment 


106 


THURSTON  COUNTY 


than  was  the  share  of  Governor  and  ]Mrs.  Stevens'  guests  that 
night. 

"My  husband  at  that  time  kept  the  Gold  Bar  store  and 
when  the  question  of  finding  some  place  where  the  first  meet- 
ing of  the  Territorial  Legislature  could  be  held,  my  father 
suggested  using  the  room  above  his  store.  This  suggestion  was 
adopted  and  the  place  made  in  readiness  for  that  historical 
event. 

After  a  few  years  j\Ir.  Parker  went  to  steamboating. 
building  and  operating,  I  think,  the  first  steamboat  on  Puget 
Sound,  The  Traveller,  on  the  run  between  Olympia  and  Vic- 
toria. Later  he  was  owner  and  captain  of  the  Messenger,  go- 
ing to  Seattle  from  this  place.  It  took  two  whole  days  to 
make  the  trip  down  to  Seattle  and  return,  providing  the  tides 
were  right  and  they  had  no  breakdowns.  Then  for  several 
years  he  was  on  the  Alida,  between  the  same  ports.  We  went 
to  San  Francisco  and  staid  there  for  ten  years,  but  finally  re- 
turned to  the  Sound. 

"My  dear  husband  died  in  Olympia  on  October  2.  1908. 
and  is  buried  out  in  the  Masonic  cemetery. 

"Besides  Mrs.  IMcMicken  our  children  are:  Gilmore 
Hays,  Maude,  now  Mrs.  Anderson  of  Tacoma,  Herbert  and 
John  G.,  Jr.,  both  of  Seattle.  Gilmore  Hays  died  cpite 
recently." 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  107 


JOHN  MILLER  MURPHY 


Mr.  John  ^lillor  ]\Iiirphy  has  been  more  prominently 
identified  with  the  growth  and  deveh)pment  of  Olympia  and 
Thurston  County,  and  for  a  longer  continuous  time,  than  any 
of  the  men  who  braved  the  hardships  and  dangers  of  the 
wilderness.  For  fifty  years  Mr.  ]\Iurphy,  through  the  columns 
of  the  Washington  Standard,  worked  for  the  advancement  and 
prosperity  of  the  community.  For  over  two  thousand  six 
hundred  weeks  the  Standard  was  a  welcome  visitor  in  the 
majority  of  the  homes  of  Olympia  and  Thurston  County.  The 
editorials  in  these  many  issues  Mr.  Murphy  penned  with  his 
own  hand. 

IVIr.  Murphy  has  recorded  the  appointments,  through  the 
columns  of  the  Standard,  of  eleven  Territorial  Governors,  com- 
mencing with  Governor  Wm.  H.  Wallace,  and  including  Gov- 
ernors Pickering,  Cole,  Moore,  Flanders,  Salomon,  Newell, 
Squire,  Ferry,  Miles  C.  Moore,  and  the  elections  of  Washing- 
ton State  Governors  Ferry,  JMcGraw,  Rogers,  McBride,  I\Iead, 
Cosgrove  and  Hay.  When  the  Standard  was  born  James  Bu- 
chanan was  President  of  the  United  States.  A  search  through 
the  back  files  of  this  paper  show  the  announcements  of  the 
inaugurations  of  Presidents  Lincoln,  Johnson,  Grant,  Hayes, 
Garfield,  Arthur,  Cleveland  (twice),  Harrison,  JMcKinley, 
Roosevelt  and  Taft.  Among  the  most  interesting  of  Mr. 
Murphy's  reminiscences,  as  recorded  in  The  Standard,  tells 
about  the  young  editor  being  in  Portland,  Oregon,  for  the 
purpose  of  attending  his  own  wedding.  Just  as  the  young 
couple  were  about  to  take  the  stage  for  their  home  on  I'uget 
Sound,  a  San  P^rancisco  steamer  arrived  in  port  with  the  late 
newspapers  on  board,  bearing  black  letter  headlines,  "Fort 
Sumpter  Fired   On." 

Mr.  Murphy  called  the  boy  selling  the  papers  and  bought 
the  entire  supply,  saying  nothing  of  the  great  news  to  the  rest 
of  the  passengers  until  reaching  Olympia. 


108  THURSTON   COUNTY 

Arriving  here  he  hurriedly  turned  his  bride  over  to  the 
care  of  the  hotel  people  and  rushed  for  the  Standard  office. 
All  the  printers  in  town  were  set  to  work  at  the  cases  aftd 
within  a  few  hours  an  extra  was  cried  upon  the  streets  of 
Olympia  with  huge  headlines  announcing  the  beginning  of  the 
v/ar.  "And,"  added  JMr.  Murphy,  "as  I  told  the  story  of  the 
firing  on  Fort  Sumpter  all  in  the  headlines,  the  people  saw  at 
a  glance  the  reason  for  the  extra's  appearance  and  not  one 
cent  did  I  realized  from  the  issue.  Besides,  I  paid  the  boys 
$1  for  selling  the  papers  on  the  streets.  Since  that  time  I  have 
kept  part  of  my  story  for  the  columns  of  the  paper  instead  of 
spreading  it  all  out  in  the  headlines." 

The  description  of  the  way  the  news  of  Lee's  surrender 
was  received  in  the  Capital  City  was  very  amusing.  There 
was  no  better  way  to  celebrate  important  events  in  those  days 
than  in  patronizing  the  saloons,  and  as  the  news  spread  along 
the  streets  a  rush  was  made,  first  for  the  Standard  oft'ice,  then, 
all  together,  to  where  the  men  could  properly  air  their  en- 
thusiasm as  well  as  quench  their  thirst.  There  were  very 
few  men  in  Olympia  in  early  days  who  never  visited  saloons, 
but  on  this  glad  time  no  one  was  exempt,  and  if  a  man  refused 
to  do  his  share  of  the  drinking  it  was  up  with  him  to  the  bar. 
spread  him  flat  on  his  back  and  pour  brandy  down  his  throat 
until  the  crowd  felt  that  a  sufficient  amount  of  patriotism 
had  been  imbibed. 

To  this  day  the  veteran  editor's  voice  falters  when  he  re- 
calls the  reception  in  Olympia  of  the  news  of  the  assassination 
of  President  Lincoln  and  the  impression  made  upon  the  citizens. 

"We  had  planned  a  big  celebration  of  some  local  event," 
said  Mr.  Murphy,  "and  had  brought  the  Fourth  Infantry  band 
from  Vancouver  at  an  expense  of  more  than  $200  to  play  for 
the  celebration  and  ball  in  the  evening.  At  that  time  the 
first  telegraph  office  in  the  Northwest  was  just  across  from 
the  old  New  England  hotel.  The  band  was  on  the  balcony  of 
the  hotel  playing  lively  airs  to  the  delight  of  the  entire  popu- 
lation of  the  town.  The  telegraph  operator  came  to  the  door 
of  the  office  with  a  face  as  white  as  a  sheet.  Without  speak- 
ing a  word  to  anyone  the  operator  stepped  to  the  band  leader 
and  handed  him  a  slip  of  yellow  paper.  The  leader  glanced  at 
the  slip  and  gave  a  hurried  order  to  his  musicians.     Without 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  109 

prelimmary  warning  they  played  the  strains  of  one  of  the 
saddest  dirges  I  have  ever  heard. 

"The  crowd  was  appalled  and  when  the  last  strains  died 
away  a  man  stepped  to  the  front  of  the  balcony  and  an- 
nounced:  'President  Lincoln  has  been  assassinated.'  There 
was  not  a  dry  eye  in  the  assemblage  when  the  people  realized 
the  meaning  of  the  message." 

When  the  Standard  was  started  Olympia  was  a  village 
of  about  1,000  population.  Seattle  consisted  of  two  or  three 
houses  with  a  store  and  saloon  to  represent  its  business,  and 
Tacoma  was  unknown.  There  was  a  five  column  weekly  pub- 
lished in  Seattle — The  Seattle  Gazette — but  the  proprietor  was 
unable  to  handle  any  job  work  at  all,  the  consequence  being 
that  for  several  years  every  line  of  job  work  for  Seattle  and 
all  of  the  territory  this  side  of  Portland  was  sent  to  Olympia 
and  turned  out  in  the  Standard  office. 

Among  ^Ir.  ^Murphy's  proud  boasts  is  that  he  was  the  first 
new^spaper  carrier  ever  employed  on  the  Oregonian,  of  Port- 
land; and  that  he  was  an  attendant  at  the  first  school  ever 
organized  in  that  city.  It  was  in  that  city,  also,  that  he 
learned  the  printer's  trade,  setting  his  first  type  on  the  Ore- 
gon Weekly  Times,  within  two  years  rising  from  office  "devil" 
to  foreman.  The  Standard  has  fought  the  Democratic  fight 
for  the  past  half  century  with  the  exception  of  the  civil  war 
period,  when  Mr.  Murphy  upheld  the  Lincoln  administration. 

John  Miller  Murphy  was  born  in  Indiana  and  left  an  or- 
l)han  at  an  early  age,  living  with  his  elder  sister,  INIrs.  George 
Barnes.  When  nine  years  of  age  the  lad,  in  company  with 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Barnes,  crossed  the  plains  Avith  the  regulation 
\oke  of  oxen  and  underwent  all  the  hardships  attendant  upon 
the  trip  across  the  continent  with  that  means  of  conveyance. 
This  trip  was  made  in  the  year  of  1850,  and  Mr.  Barnes  de- 
cided to  settle  in  Portland,  where  he  started  a  store,  selling 
general  merchandise.  .John  was  put  to  work  as  a  clerk  in  this 
store,  although  little  mor(^  than  a  l)al)y.  Among  the  pleas- 
antest  of  the  recollections  of  these  early  days  are  memories 
of  the  good  times  the  lad  enjoyed  as  a  singer  in  the  famous 
church  choir  with  Dr.  Griffin,  of  the  M.  K.  church,  leader. 
Mr.  ^Murphy,  as  boy  and  man.  loved  music  and  toolc  keen  de- 
light in  musical  associations. 


110  THURSTON  COUNTY 

In  1851  ]Mr.  Barnes  decided  to  remove  his  store  to  Puget 
Sound  and  selected  Olympia  as  the  best  known  settlement 
in  the  new  country.  The  contents  of  the  store,  together  with 
the  household  goods,  were  shipped  on  the  sailing  vessel  JMary 
Taylor,  around  from  Portland,  but  j\Ir.  and  Mrs.  Barnes  and 
Johnnie  rode  horseback  across  country.  The  boy  rode  the 
same  horse  as  his  sister,  sitting  astride,  holding  on  to  the 
woman  to  keep  from  slipping  off.  When  Olympia  was  reached 
the  family  had  to  wait  three  weeks  for  the  arrival  of  the  ^lary 
Taylor  with  their  goods. 

The  store  was  the  first  in  Olympia.  M.  D.  Simmons,  of 
Tumwater,  had  a  trading  post  for  Indian  supplies,  but  the 
stock  Mr.  Barnes  brought  was  the  first  general  merchandise 
store  on  the  Sound.  The  lad,  by  this  time  ten  years  of  age, 
took  his  place  behind  the  counter  and  was  as  efficient  a  clerk 
as  any  man  would  have  been. 

The  experiences  the  lad  had  with  the  Indian  customers 
were  quite  amusing.  He  declares  these  people  are  the  worst 
thieves  in  the  world,  or  were  in  those  days.  When  he  would 
be  measuring  calico,  of  which  the  aborigines  bought  great 
quantities,  a  squaw  would  give  the  cloth  a  quick  jerk  to  pull 
the  length  a  few  inches  longer  than  the  regulation  yard, 
much  to  the  disgust  of  the  young  clerk,  who  spent  a  good 
part  of  his  time  watching  them  to  prevent  them  stealing  from 
the  store. 

The  currency  of  ^Ir.  ^lurphy's  early  recollection  in  this 
section  of  the  world  consisted  of  Spanish  dollars,  American 
halves  and  quarters,  Spanish  doubloons,  worth  $16,  and  slugs, 
which  were  eight  sided  bars  of  solid  gold,  and  worth  $50.  For 
convenience  in  making  change  the  ]Moffatt  Company  of  San 
Francisco  coined  five,  ten  and  twenty  dollar  pieces.  While 
these  were  of  no  value  as  legal  tender,  everyone  was  anxious 
to  secure  the  pieces  as  they  weighed  exactly  the  denomination 
represented  and  were  of  pure  gold  without  alloy.  There  Avere 
very  few  dimes  in  circulation,  no  nickles,  and  to  have  tendered 
a  penny  piece  to  any  one  in  those  days  would  have  been 
equivalent  to  an  insult. 

The  Indians  preferred  silver.  They  didn't  seem  to  under- 
stand gold  money,  and  greenbacks  were  so  uncommon  that 
they  had  no  knowledge  of  them  as  currency.     If  an  Indian 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  111 

had  a  sum  due  him  to  the  amount  of*  $5,  that  sum  nuist  be 
paid  him  in  five  one  dollar  pieces.  Should  a  $5  gold  piece 
be  tendered  the  brave  he  would  shake  his  head  and  say:  "Tenas 
chickamun.  wake  ticky" — -"little  money,  don't  want  it."  ^Ir. 
Barnes  kept  a  candle  box  under  the  counter  filled  with  silver 
dollars  to  pay  out  to  the  Indians.  However,  the  Indians  had 
no  appreciation  of  the  value  of  money.  If  they  could  be  in- 
duced to  work  at  ail  they  would  work  all  day  for  the  same 
amount  they  would  charge  for  bringing  a  single  bucket  of 
water  from  the  spring. 

The  early  settlers  all  procured  their  water  from  the  com- 
mon spring  which  flowed  clear,  cold  and  delicious  on  the 
present  location  of  the  Chambers  Block  on  the  corner 
of  IMain  and  Fourth  streets.  The  housewives  wouhl 
hire  the  Indians  to  carry  the  water  for  them  to  supply  their 
daily  needs. 

The  young  Murphy,  still  of  tender  years,  was  set  to  work 
clearing  off  the  block  of  land  which  was  the  Barnes  home. 
With  one  half  breed  Indian  as  an  assistant,  the  lad  toiled 
all  one  winter  cutting  down  the  huge  cedar  trees,  sawing 
them  into  lengths,  rolling  them  together  and  finally  burning 
the  piles  of  wood.  The  work  of  digging  out  the  stumps  left 
by  these  big  trees  taxed  the  lad's  strength  and  endurance  al- 
most to  the  breaking  point,  but  finally  the  task  was  accom- 
plished and  the  land  was  afterwards  built  upon  by  ]\Ir.  Barnes 
and  became  one  of  the  beauty  spots  of  the  city. 

There  were  no  bridges  across  the  two  arms  of  the  bay  for 
many  years  after  the  town  had  become  to  be  finite  a  place,  and 
from  where  Fifth  Street  now  extends  to  Capitol  Point  was  an 
unbroken  line  of  Indian  tepees  and  shacks.  The  entire  por- 
tion of  the  town  was  comprised  by  the  blocks  between  what  is 
i;ow  the  corner  of  Fourth  and  ^lain  Streets  down  to  the  water- 
front, and  before  the  filling  was  done  the  tide  came  up  to 
Second  Street. 

When  the  Indian  war  broke  out.  and  reports  of  the  White 
River  massacre  was  received  here,  the  Indians  were  told  thev 
must  go.  They  remonstrated  at  leaving  land  which  they  had 
always  looked  upon  as  their  own  and  did  not  fancy  the  idea 
cf  pulling  up  stakes  and  moving  away,  but  the  settlers  were 
firm.    As  the  alarm  grew  the  citizens  began  to  build  the  stock- 


112  THURSTON  COUNTY 

vde  which  was  one  of  the  most  uiiicjiie  structures  in  the  his- 
tory of  the  Northwest.  This  stockade  extended  clear  across 
from  bay  to  bay  the  length  of  Fourth  Street. 

The  stockade  was  20  feet  high,  built  of  four  inch  plank. 
Crosby's  mill  at  Tumwater  was  kept  running  night  and  day, 
and  night  and  daj-  did  the  citizens  work  at  the  defense.  ]\Ien, 
women  and  boys  all  helped  in  the  building.  When  the  stock- 
i'de  was  finished  all  moved  inside,  those  few  families  who  had 
their  homes  outside  the  enclosure  locking  up  their  houses  the 
best  they  could  and  seeking  safety  with  the  others.  This  con- 
dition of  affairs  lasted  several  months  and  until  an  armerl 
cruiser,  the  Joe  Lane,  came  up  the  harbor.  This  cruiser  car- 
lied  a  lot  of  arms  and  every  woman  and  boy  Avas  furnished 
with  one  of  those  long  barrelled  muskets,  whose  "kick"  was 
more  deadly  than  the  bullet.  To  add  to  the  defense  the  citizens 
l)ossessed  an  old  cannon,  which  ancient  piece  of  artillery  would 
certainly  have  meant  sure  death  to  the  gunner  if  it  had  been 
fired  off  with  any  considerable  load,  was  mounted  in  position 
to  sweep  an  approaching  enemy,  and  M'as  the  pride  of  the 
jjeople.  When  all  was  completed,  the  Indian  chiefs  and  head 
men  were  invited  to  inspect  the  defenses  and  were  shown 
that  the  whites  were  in  readinesss  and  able  to  protect  them- 
selves, but  still  they  lingered  until  the  Joe  Lane  put  in  an 
appearance.  AVhen  they  saw  the  white  man's  "big  canoe" 
and  heard  the  guns  thunder  forth  a  volley  of  salutation  as  the 
cruiser  came  into  port,  they  decided  that  quitting  time  had 
come,  so  "folded  their  tents  like  the  Arab,  and  silently  stole 
aw^ay, "  never  to  return  to  settle  in  any  considerable  number  in 
the  immediate  neighborhood  of  the  town. 

"When  I  first  came  here,  among  the  ladies  I  can  recollect 
were  ]Mrs.  Alexander,  !Mrs.  Rider,  ]\Irs.  Forey,  ]\Iary  and  Barney 
Wood.  There  were  ahvays  enough  ladies  to  fill  out  at  least 
two  sets  of  a  quadrille  at  the  dances  which  were  then  the 
popular  amusement.  And  such  dances — sometimes  lasting  not 
only  all  night  but  two  and  three  nights.  Five  dollars  a  ticket 
was  the  usual  price,  with  an  elegant  .supper  at  the  hotel.  No 
punch  and  wafer  affairs  in  those  good  old  days.  The  Connell 
Brothers  and  their  fiddles  w^ere  called  into  requisition,  but 
Oliver  Shed  was  really  the  star  musician  at  the  dances  for  ha 


PIONEER    REMINISCENCES  113 

(.•ould  not  only  play  the  fiddle  but  call  the  figures  as  well.  There 
were  no  wall  flowers.    Everybody  had  a  good  time. 

"Among  the  business  men  I  can  recall  during  my  first 
years  in  Olympia  were  Lightner,  Parker  &  Coulter  Co.,  mer- 
chants, the  second  firm  to  open  a  general  merchandise  store 
after  Mr.  Barnes;  Chas.  A.  Weed,  baker;  I.  C.  Patten,  black- 
smith; Mr.  Thornton  F.  McElroy,  who  started  The  Columbian 
c'bout  this  time,  and  two  saloons,  but  as  I  never  frequented 
them  I  cannot  remember  the  proprietors'  names. 

"In  connection  with  my  recollections  of  the  Indians  I 
lecall  one  incident  which  has  filled  me  with  disgust  for  the 
breed  ever  since.  What  was  called  a  sulphur-bottom  whale, 
probably  90  feet  in  length,  floundered  up  the  bay,  one  morn- 
ing in  the  early  '50s,  and  on  reaching  the  shallow  water  was 
unable  to  swim  out  to  sea  again  and  was  stranded  as  the  tide 
went  out.  This  was  a  rich  find  for  the  Indians.  They  cut  off 
great  chunks  of  the  meat  from  the  sides  of  the  whale,  and 
when  this  part  was  cut  into  portions  the  Indians  climbed  right 
into  the  location  made  famous  by  Jonah,  the  insides  of  the 
immense  fish  being  considered  a  special  delicacy  by  the  filthy 
things. 

"Well,  I  became  tired  of  working  for  relations  and  wanted 
to  go  back  to  Portland,  so  I  bid  the  Barnes"  good-bye  and 
started  out  to  seek  my  fortune  on  my  own  account.  When 
I  reached  there  I  apprenticed  myself  out  to  learn  the  printing 
trade  on  the  Oregon  Weekly,  with  John  0.  Waterman,  editor, 
and  owned  by  Carter  &  Austin.  Later  I  went  to  Oregon  City 
and  worked  on  a  paper  belonging  to  D.  W.  Craig.  After  a 
year  I  located  in  Vancouver,  Washington,  where  I  started  the 
Chronicle.  At  the  end  of  three  months  I  sold  out  and  returned 
to  Olympia. 

"This  was  in  1860,  and  soon  after  my  arrival  here  I  started 
the  Washington  Standard,  which  I  personally  conducted  and 
edited  until  about  a  year  ago. 

"When  I  returned  to  Olympia  I  was  still  uinnarried,  but 
had  my  courting  done.  I  was  engaged  to  be  married  to  ]\Iiss 
^laguire,  a  daughter  of  the  family  of  Oregon  printers.  As 
soon  as  I  had  established  my  business  and  saw  reasonable 
prosperity  ahead  of  me,  I  went  to  I^ortland  for  my  bride. 

"We  came  from  ]\Ionticello  landing  by  stage,  making  the 


114  THURSTON  COUNTY 

trip  in  one  day.  This  trip  had  formerly  taken  three  hard 
days'  travelling.  But  the  roads  had  been  so  much  improved 
and  a  generally  better  service  provided  that  the  trip  had 
lost  much  of  its  tediousness. 

"For  five  years  The  Standard  was  published  in  a  little 
building  on  the  corner  of  First  and  jMain  Streets.  In  1885 
I  purchased  the  land  where  my  office  and  home  stand  to 
this  day. 

"When  I  was  ready  to  move  my  office  I  procured  a  scow 
and  floated  it  right  up  to  the  door  of  the  First  street  office, 
loaded  my  cases  and  press  and  other  printing  material  on  it 
and  poled  the  scow  over  to  the  new  office,  unloading  and 
getting  the  scow  out  of  the  way  on  high  tide.  That  is  the  time 
I  cheated  the  express  man. 

"I  well  remember  when  the  first  pony  express  was  started 
between  Monticello  and  Olympia.  The  riders  made  the  trip 
in  half  a  day,  changing  their  riding  ponies  every  few  miles. 
Twenty-five  cents  was  charged  for  carrying  a  letter  and  a 
proportionate  charge  for  small  parcels. 

"Music,  sweet  music,  was  ever  my  heart's  delight.  I 
have  always  taken  the  greatest  pleasure  in  music  and  although 
I  make  no  claims  to  ability  in  that  line  I  certainly  enjoyed 
plink  plunking  my  guitar.  Many  a  pleasant  night,  in  company 
with  Jim  Hays,  Dave  Drewry  and  Henry  Willard,  have  I 
gone  from  house  to  house  serenading  the  pretty  girls.  The 
other  boys  all  performed  on  violins  and  Avith  my  guitar  we 
made  some  very  creditable  music.  At  least,  we  thought  we 
did,  judging  from  the  pleasant  receptions  we  received  from 
our  charmers.  We  would  assemble  beneath  some  fair  one's 
window  and  pour  forth  dulcet  strains  until  we  would  see  a 
light  appear  in  the  window,  a  signal  that  we  were  heard  and 
appreciated.  Sometimes  the  girls  would  invite  us  in  and 
give  us  refreshments  along  with  their  thanks. 

"Well,  the  years  have  gone  by.  I  have  retired  from  the 
publishing  field,  but  the  lure  of  printers'  ink  calls  me  even 
yet,  and  one  of  my  pleasures  is  in  writing  some  of  the  pioneer 
reminiscences  as  they  occur  to  me. 

"I  served  as  Territorial  Auditor  for  three  terms,  and  was 
a  City  Councilman  in  the  early  '90s. 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES 


115 


"Early  in  life  I  adopted  the  slogan,  'Be  not  fearful  to 
speak  out,  but  be  sure  to  speak  right.'  I  can  think  of  nothing 
more  to  add.  I  am  down  to  cases.  William  ]\Iitchell  and  my- 
self are  the  only  ones  still  living  of  the  men  and  women  I  found 
in  Olympia  at  the  time  of  my  first  arrival." 


116  THURSTON   COUNTY 


THE  B.  L.  BROWN  FAMILY 


That  this  compilation  of  reminiscences  should  have  been 
started  25  years  ago  was  never  more  forcibly  impressed  than 
when  the  compiler  undertook  to  gather  the  chief  and  most 
thrilling  experiences  of  those  delate  pioneers,  Benjamin  F. 
Brown  and  his  wife,  ]\Iary  Olney  Brown.  Of  the  eleven 
children  born  to  this  couple,  only  the  second  to  the  last  child, 
Oscar  Brown,  could  be  located.  Oscar  has  been  away  from 
Olympia  so  much  of  his  eventful  life,  that,  perforce,  his  recol- 
lections of  the  early  Olympia  days  are  overshadowed  by  more 
exciting  events  in  his  life.  Twice  around  the  world,  mining 
in  Alaska,  hunting  and  trapping  along  the  Natches  Pass  and 
still  wilder  spots,  taking  adventurous  cruises  all  alone  in  his 
trusty  sail  boat,  ranger  and  guide  in  the  Olympic  reserve, 
Oscar's  life  history  alone  would  fill  a  good-sized  volume. 

But  had  the  writer  only  been  inspired  to  start  this  worlc 
during  the  life  of  that  noblest  Roman  of  them  all,  Theodore 
L.  Brown,  what  a  rich  field  of  tale  and  anecdote  could  have 
been  opened  up.  He  was  full  to  the  brim  of  stories  of  his  early 
experiences,  and  as  he  was  older  than  the  remaining  son,  could 
remember  farther  back  along  in  the  days  when  his  family 
lived  on  the  old  donation  claim,  a  couple  of  miles  down  on  the 
west  side  of  the  bay. 

Benjamin  F.  Brown  was  born  in  South  Orange,  New  Jersey, 
but  removed  to  Iowa  while  still  a  young  man.  Here  he  met 
and  married  Miss  Mary  Olney  and  after  a  few  years  of  married 
life,  the  young  couple  decided  to  try  their  fortunes  in  the 
Golden  West  that  was  then  beginning  to  attract  the  adven- 
turous with  its  fair  promises  and  glittering  prospects. 

The  long  trip  was  filled  with  more  than  the  usual  hard- 
ships and  sorrow,  for  cholera  and  scurvy  broke  out  in  their 
train  and  many  deaths  among  the  emigrants  were  caused  by 
these  dread  diseases.  The  Browns  laid  two  of  their  little 
children  away  in  lonely  graves  beside  the  muddy  Platte  River 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  117 

The  grass  on  the  plains  was  so  dried  up  and  the  travelling  so 
hard  that  all  the  horses  that  the  couple  started  out  Avith  died 
along  the  way,  the  oxen  began  to  give  out,  everyone  who  pos- 
sibly could  had  to  walk  to  save  the  animals'  strength  and 
finally  the  cows,  which  were  being  driven  along  to  supply  milk 
to  the  emigrants  and  for  a  start  of  stock  in  the  new  country, 
were  yoked  up  with  the  oxen.  Mrs.  Brown  told  her  children 
many  a  time,  in  happier  times,  about  their  finding  a  lone  woman 
crying  beside  the  road  one  hot,  dreary  day.  Her  family,  horsee 
all  had  died,  leaving  her  there  on  the  plains  absolutely  alone 
The  Browns  picked  her  up  and  brought  her  along  to  Oregon 
with  them,  sharing  with  the  unfortunate  woman  theii  s^'an+i 
store.  Another  of  the  many  incidents  of  true  nobleness  aL.^ 
generosity  that  stand  out  a  white  mile  stone  along  th^  dari 
path  of  these  early  pioneers. 

This  trip  was  made  in  1846,  and  the  first  stop  for  anv 
length  of  time  was  made  at  Portland.  A  few  years  were  spent 
at  this  place,  and  in  the  Spring  of  1852  Mr.  Brown,  Washington 
i'rench  and  John  French  came  on  up  to  Puget  Sound.  The 
country  was  then  quite  well  known  and  attracting  considerable 
attention.  ]\Ir.  Brown's  family  was  left  in  Portland,  while 
he  located  on  a  donation  claim  that  was  for  many  years  to 
be  the  homestead.  The  Frenchs  also  took  up  donation  claims 
and  became  among  the  best  known  and  respected  of  the  early 
settlers.     Washington  French  married  a  sister  of  Mrs.  Brown. 

When  Brown  returned  for  his  family,  he  found  that  all 
his  cattle,  which  he  had  left  on  the  ranges  near  The  Dalles, 
had  perished  the  previous  winter.  All  the  live  stock  he  had 
remaining  was  one  poor,  lone  black  cow.  At  this  time  an 
uncle  of  Mrs.  Brown's,  Cyrus  Olney,  had  started  a  fruit  nur- 
sery near  Portland,  the  first  one  this  side  the  Rockies.  He 
raised  his  trees  from  apple  seeds  brought  over  the  old  Oregon 
Trail  in  ox  wagons,  and  as  the  trees  grcAV  rapidly  and  thrived 
exceedingly  Avell  in  the  rich  soil,  there  was  enough  stock  on 
hand  to  furnish  Mr.  Brown  with  a  supply  to  bring  to  Puget 
Sound  and  sell  among  the  settlers.  These  young  trees  were 
peddled  clear  to  Steilacoom,  over  what  is  now  Chehalis  and 
Thurston  and  Lewis  Counties.  One  dollar  a  graft  was  readily 
Maid  by  the  settlers.     This  was  the  first  start  towards  the  fine 


118  THURSTON  COUNTY 

orchards  which  have  since  made  Thurston  County  known  for 
excellent  fruit. 

Mr.  Brown's  next  business  venture  was  to  build  the  his- 
toric wharf  on  the  Westside  in  partnership  with  John  French. 
At  this  wharf  were  unloaded  all  the  freight  that  came  to 
Olympia  from  San  Francisco  for  years,  until  Capt.  Percival 
built  the  dock  which  is  in  use  at  the  present  time.  Here 
steamers  loaded  wood,  which  J\Ir.  Brown  had  cut  and  hauled 
by  the  hundreds  of  cords  from  the  timber  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  wharf.  Later  Brown  sold  the  timber  on  his 
donation  claim  to  the  veteran  logger,  I.  C.  Ellis,  for  50  cents 
per   thousand. 

Oscar  Brown  is  still  able  to  recall  tales  his  mother  used  to 
tell  her  children  about  the  exchange  of  courtesies  between  her- 
self and  the  officers  of  the  naval  ships  which  would  come  into 
the  harbor.  Among  the  army  officers  she  knew  was  U.  S. 
Grant,  then  a  stripling  of  a  lieutenant,  stationed  at  Fort  Van- 
couver. The  story  runs  that  Grant  was  then  as  wild  and  dare- 
devil as  any. 

The  mother's  stories  of  their  escapes  from  the  Indians 
and  the  siege  of  terror  in  which  the  family  lived  for  weeks, 
expecting  an  attack  any  night  from  the  savages,  are  among  the 
children's  most  vivid  recollections.  For  several  nights  the 
whole  Brown  family  slept  out  behind  a  big  log,  not  daring  to 
stay  in  their  house  for  fear  of  a  night  raid.  Finally  the  danger 
menaced  so  strongly  that  the  family  came  to  town  and  took  up 
their  quarters  in  the  block  house.  During  this  time  their  son 
Theodore  was  born. 

In  the  year  of  1866  the  Browns  took  up  a  homestead  on 
White  River  and  loading  all  their  effects  on  a  three-ton  sail- 
boat, made  Johnson's  Point  the  first  night,  and  then  by  easy 
stages  the  rest  of  their  water  trip.  An  Indian  trail  was  fol- 
lowed when  the  boat  was  abandoned,  and  so  on  to  the  new 
home. 

Later,  Mrs.  Brown  took  the  children  to  Seattle  and  put 
them  in  school,  the  Territorial  University  being  the  place 
where  the  younger  of  the  children  received  the  greater  part 
of  their  education.  Theodore  and  his  sister  Harriet,  who  after- 
wards became  Mrs.  Murphy,  developed  very  pleasing  voices 
and  whenever  an  entertainment  of  home  talent  was  put  on 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  119 

in  the  historic  Yesler  Hall  they  shone  as  bright  partieular  stars. 

Mrs.  Brown  was  a  woman  of  remarkable  energy  and  pos- 
sessed of  considerable  literary  talent.  Her  poems  and  writings 
for  the  local  papers  were  much  admired  by  her  friends.  ]Mrs. 
"Coldwater"  Brown  the  lady  was  called  in  later  years  when 
the  familj'  returned  to  Olympia  to  live.  She  earned  this  title 
from  the  many  cures  she  effected  among  children  ill  with  fevers 
and  other  ailments.  Her  cures  with  applications  of  first  hot. 
then  cold  water,  were  said  to  have  been  quite  remarkable. 
Far  and  wide,  in  the  country  as  well  as  in  town,  Mrs.  Brown 
was  sent  for,  night  or  day.  She  always  responded  to  an  appeal 
for  help  with  unfailing  zeal  and  kind  heartedness.  Her  memory 
is  still  cherished  by  the  descendants  of  the  pioneers. 

In  searching  over  an  old  scrap  book  compiled  by  her  son 
Theodore,  was  found  the  poem  written  by  his  mother,  which 
is  appended.  It  possesses  true  literary  merit  and  is  a  fitting 
testimonial  to  the  lady's  ability  in  this  line. 

Mrs.  Brown  died  in  Olympia  in  1884  and  was  survived  by 
her  husband  by  about  ten  years. 

In  1891  the  youngest  son  of  iNIr.  and  JMrs.  Brown  carried 
the  first  flag  to  the  top  of  ]\Iount  Rainier  that  was  left  there. 
Some  years  previously  one  of  the  Longmires  had  carried  a 
United  States  flag  to  the  top,  but  had  brought  it  away  with  him. 
Brown  and  party  carried  a  flag  staff  with  them  and  with  great 
difficulty  reached  the  summit.  The  staff  was  securely  kept  in 
an  upright  position  with  a  pile  of  large  rocks  heaped  around 
its  base.  The  colors  were  hoisted  and  w^aved  out  in  the  fierce 
wind  which  was  blowing.  Scarcely  had  the  flag  straightened 
out  than  the  wind  snapped  the  staff  off  clean  and  blew  staff, 
flag  and  all  beyond  their  reach  down  the  mountain  side.  Two 
years  later  the  flag  was  recovered  and  pieces  of  the  banner 
sold  on  the  street  of  Seattle  as  souvenirs,  a  piece  a  few  inclies 
across  selling  for  one  dollar. 

A  sister,  Mrs.  Seth  Murphy,  died  a  luimber  of  years  ago 
in  Olympia.  Theodore  Lee  Brown  had  always  had  a  Idvc  for 
the  old  homestead,  which  had  long  since  passed  into  strangers" 
hands.  So  in  the  later  years  of  his  life  and  after  many  adven- 
tures and  wanderings,  he  purchased  part  of  the  land  and  began 
to  build  up  a  home.  "The  Firs,"  one  of  the  best  known  of 
summer  cottages  on  the  Olympia  water  front,  was  built  by  him. 


12d  THURSTON   COUNTY 

much  of  the  work  around  the  x)Iaee  in  the  shape  of  rustic  seats, 
the  artistic  name  over  the  door  and  other  more  practical  things 
being  the  work  of  his  own  hands.  And  here  it  came  to  pass 
his  life  ended  where  his  life  had  practically  begun  after  a 
pleasant  and  useful  life  of  56  years.  In  1886  Theodore  married 
iMiss  Martha  Strange,  of  ^lenasha,  Wisconsin,  and  his  widow 
makes  her  home  during  all  the  summer  months  at  the  place  he 
held  so  dear — The  Firs, 


MOUNT  RAINIER. 

(Poem  written  by  Mary  Olney  Brown,  a  pioneer  woman). 
Beautiful  mountain,  grand  and  sublime, 
Thou  standest  alone  in  thy  pride ; 
Thy  base  firmly  fixed  on  the  adamant  rock, 
Thy  head  in  the  clouds  thou  dost  hide. 

Say,  tell  me,  how  long  since  thou  first  was  upheaved, 
From  the  bosom  of  earth  thou  didst  rise ; 
Since  the  white  snows  have  crested  thy  breast 
And  thy  head  thou  hast  hid  in  the  skies? 

"Was  it  when  the  earth  in  its  primeveal  state 

First  came  from  the  hand  of  its  God? 

Ere  the  trees  of  the  forest  had  spread  forth  their  leaves. 

And  the  grass  and  the  flowers  decked  the  sod? 

How  oft  have  I  gazed  on  thy  snow  covered  peak, 
With  rapture  no  language  can  tell; 
And  thought  couldst  thou  once  be  permitted  to  speak, 
Of  strange  things  thou  surely  would  tell. 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  121 

Thou  couldst  tell  of  the  time  when  old  ocean's  tide 
First  rolled  its  bright  waves  to  the  shore ; 
When  beasts  of  the  forest  roamed  over  the  earth 
And  the  birds  in  the  air  first  did  soar. 

Thou  couldst  tell  of  the  nations  that  in  ages  gone  by 
First  dw^elt  on  these  valleys  and  plains — 

But  have  passed  from  the  earth  like  the  flowers  of  the  field. 
And  naught  of  their  grandeur  remains 


Save  a  few  hoary  ruins  and  burial  grounds, 
By  trees  of  the  forest  o  'er  grown ; 
That  tell  us  that  since  those  nations  have  lived, 
Long  ages,  indeed,  must  have  flown. 

But  silent  thou  standest,  in  grandeur  sublime 
And  enraptured  I  gaze  on  thee  still ; 
"With  feelings  no  language  of  mine  can  express- 
^Ty  heart  strings  convulsively  thrill. 


122  •  THURSTON    COUNTY 


MRS.  JANE  W.  PATTISON 


The  place  Mrs.  Jane  Willey  Pattison  holds  among  the  ranks 
of  Thurston  County  pioneers  is  almost  unique,  for  while  every 
woman  who  came  to  this  country  over  the  Old  Oregon  Trail 
endured  hardships  and  privations,  dangers  and  sufferings, 
Mrs.  Pattison 's  experiences,  as  related  by  herself,  were  so  wild 
and  thrilling  that  the  pen  of  the  compiler  hesitates  in  seeking 
words  strong  enough  and  description  sufficiently  vivid  to  show 
the  bravery  and  genuine  pluck  of  this  little  woman. 

Born  in  Ayreshire,  Scotland,  not  far  from  Glasgow, 
daughter  of  well-to-do  parents,  the  little  Jane  was  brought  to 
New  York  City  when  but  three  years  old.  Her  life  in  that 
city  is  among  Mrs.  Pattison 's  earliest  recollections,  and  she 
can  remember  it  when  it  was  but  a  scattering  hamlet  with  but 
a  few  thousand  inhabitants. 

When  Jane  was  seven  years  of  age  the  Willeys  moved  into 
what  was  then  the  wilds  of  Illinois,  taking  up  the  occupation 
of  farming.  Here  Jane  grew  to  young  womanhood,  received 
her  education  and,  in  1847,  became  the  wife  of  James  Patti- 
son, one  of  several  brothers  of  a  neighboring  family. 

"You  know  college-raised  people  generally  are  not  much 
account,  but  my  people  were  A  No.  1,"  the  little  woman  as- 
serted, with  a  pardonable  pride,  "and  they  had  me  taught  how 
to  do  a  great  many  useful  things,  and  a  number  of  accom- 
plishments besides.  But  Father-in-Law  Pattison  was  a  man 
terribly  set  in  his  way  and  when  he  said,  '  We  '11  go  out  West, ' 
none  of  his  sons  dared  to  object.  We — my  husband  and  my- 
self— wanted  to  go,  too,  in  a  way,  but  I  didn't  like  being  dic- 
tated to  by  the  old  man.  but  we  finally  decided  to  come  along, 
though  father-in-law  was  always  boss  of  the  train,  and  when 
he  said  stop  we'd  stop  and  when  he  said  go  on  Ave'd  travel, 
and  it  was  that  way  the  whole  time  of  the  long  trip  from 
Illinois.  Mr.  Pattison  called  for  so  many  vexatious  delays  and 
was  such  a  poor  manager  that  we  got  caught  out  by  the  winter 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  123 

when  we  reached  the  Cascade  Falls  above  Fort  Vancouver. 
When  we  left  Sparta,  Illinois,  there  were  the  seven  Pattison 
brothers,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Pattison,  senior,  myself,  with  a  three 
month's  old  baby  in  my  arms,  and  another  family  named 
Willey,  distant  kin  folks.  This  family,  however,  became  dis- 
satisfied with  father-in-laAv's  management  and  left  our  com- 
pany before  we  were  caught  b}'  the  snow  and  cold. 

''When  we  reached  where  The  Dalles,  Oregon,  is  (but 
which  was  then  a  perfect  wilderness),  the  men  cut  logs  and 
made  a  raft  for  us  to  go  on  down  the  Columbia  River.  Our 
baggage  was  piled  on  this  rude  craft  and  we  humans  huddled 
on  as  best  we  could.  We  were  twelve  days  travelling  nine 
miles.  The  winds  were  so  strong  that  we  were  always  being 
blown  back  the  way  we  had  come.  The  icy  water  was  often 
dashed  all  over  us  and  we  were  pretty  thoroughly  discouraged. 
When  we  reached  the  Cascades  the  snow  was  deep  and  the 
weather  bitter  cold.  One  of  the  Pattison  brothers  drove  our 
oxen  along  the  trail  beside  the  river  to  where  they  could  get 
some  grass  to  eat.  The  brother  then  returned  to  help  make 
the  raft  and  when  they  went  to  look  for  the  cattle  they  had 
strayed  away  and  we  never  did  find  them.  We  were  first  snow- 
bound in  the  latter  part  of  November,  and  on  Christmas  day 
we  reached  Portland. 

"When  at  the  place  where  we  Avere  held  up  to  make  the 
raft  our  provisions  were  exhausted  and  we  had  absolutely 
nothing  to  eat.  Had  it  not  been  for  the  kindness  of  an  Indian 
family  who  were  camped  not  far  from  where  we  were  we 
would  have  starved  to  death.  This  famil,y  had  a  considerable 
stock  of  salmon,  dried  and  pounded,  which  I  always  thought 
looked  like  the  stuff  they  stop  up  cracks  in  boats  with  (oakum). 
This  family  was  mighty  good  to  us  and  let  us  have  enough  of 
the  salmon  to  keep  alive  on  for  four  or  five  weeks.  In  payment 
Mr.  Pattison  told  them  to  pick  out  whatever  we  had  that  they 
wanted,  and,  if  they  didn't  choose  my  clothes.  So  one  by  one 
I  had  to  see  the  articles  of  my  wardrobe  disappear — now  a 
dress,  then  a  skirt  or  jacket,  and  so  on  till  my  clothes  were 
all  eaten  up  and  I  had  a  good  many,  too,  for  I  hadn't  been 
married  a  great  while  and  my  parents  had  given  me  a  good 
setting  out.  Well,  by  the  time  mj'  clothes  were  all  gone,  down 
to  one  ragged  skirt  and  jacket,  the  raft  was  done  and  we  man- 


124  THURSTON  COUNTY 

aged  to  get  on  down  the  river  to  where  Portland  now  is,  but 
there  Avere  only  a  few  log  cabins  there  then.  A  man  loaned 
us  a  boat  and  we  went  on  up  the  river  to  Oregon  City,  which 
was  a  settlement  of  several  houses.  Our  men  folks  got  work 
on  the  road  which  was  being  built  from  this  place  to  Portland, 
and  we  were  fortunate  enough  to  find  an  empty  log  house  into 
which  we  could  move.  I  didn't  go  outside  the  house;  I  was 
that  ragged  and  poorly  dressed  I  was  ashamed,  besides  I  had 
all  those  men  to  cook  for,  the  baby  to  take  care  of  and  mighty 
few  utensils  to  manage  with.  I  didn't  even  have  a  washboard 
and  it  was  no  light  task  washing  the  heavy  shirts  for  those 
men,  besides  Willie's — the  baby's  clothes.  Well,  one  day  a 
neighbor  woman,  Mrs.  Moore,  called  to  me  across  the  back 
j^ard  and  asked  me  if  I  wouldn't  like  to  do  some  sewing  for 
her.  I  eagerly  accepted  the  offer  and  she  told  me  she  would 
give  me  calico  for  a  dress  for  myself  if  I  would  make  her  one. 
I  was  just  plum  tickled  and  when  her  dress  was  done  it  looked 
so  nice  and  neat  that  the  other  women  in  Oregon  City  asked 
me  to  sew  for  them,  too,  so  I  began  to  earn  enough  to  get  my- 
self some  decent  clothes  again.  I  was  always  up  at  daybreak 
in  the  morning  and  would  sew  every  minute  I  could  spare  from 
my  cooking  and  other  work,  and  w^hen  night  came  I  would 
make  up  a  big  fire  in  the  old  fireplace  and  sew  by  the  light  of 
the  flames.     I  had  no  other  light  of  any  kind. 

"After  about  a  year  of  this  life  Father-in-Law  Pattison 
decided  we  would  come  up  into  the  Cowlitz  country.  I  hated 
to  leave  Oregon  City,  for  the  men  could  get  work  there  and 
I  was  beginning  to  get  a  little  used  to  the  place,  but  we  had 
to  come.  Our  means  of  travel  this  time  was  down  the  Columbia 
River  in  Indian  canoes  manned  by  Indian  braves.  When  we 
reached  the  mouth  of  the  Cowlitz  River  we  found  one  family 
already  settled  there — the  Catlins.  They  were  very  kind  to 
us  and  showed  us  man}''  favors.  Father-in-law  liked  the  looks 
of  the  country  and  decided  to  stop  there.  A  little  shack  was 
built  'way  out  in  the  brush  and  we  soon  moved  in.  One  day  a 
white  man,  heading  a  train  of  about  one  hundred  Indians,  came 
riding  up  to  the  shack.  The  Indians  had  their  ponies  packed 
with  bundles  of  dried  furs  which  they  were  taking  to  the 
Hudson  Bay  trading  post,  which  Avasn't  very  far  away,  on  th'? 
Columbia  River. 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  J25 

"  'Hello,'  called  the  man,  'my  .name  is  Roberts  and  I  am 
manager  of  the  Hudson  Bay  post;  can  I  stay  here  all  night/' 
"  'Why,'  I  said,  'you  see,  we  haven't  much  room,'  but  he  said 
the  Indians  could  camp  on  the  ground  outside  the  house  and 
if  only  he  could  sleep  in  the  house  he  would  be  satisfied.  AYe 
let  him  do  that  and  a  very  pleasant  and  talkative  man  he  was, 
too,  and  very  interesting.  During  the  evening  he  told  about 
having  a  ranch  or  clearing  further  on  up  the  Cowlitz  River 
and  said  he  didn't  see  how  he  was  going  to  get  it  worked,  for 
it  took  all  his  time  to  manage  the  Hudson  Bay  property.  ]Mr. 
Pattison  didn't  say  anything,  but  I  just  wanted  to  break  away 
from  the  old  folks  and  take  up  Mr.  Roberts'  offer  more  than 
I  ever  wanted  anything  in  my  life.  In  the  morning  Roberts 
went  on  his  way,  telling  us  that  he  would  be  back  within  a 
few  days.  The  old  man  must  have  guessed  what  was  in  my 
mind,  for  he  gave  me  hardly  any  chance  to  talk  to  my  hus- 
band alone,  but  when  Mr.  Roberts  came  back  again  and  we 
were  all  sitting  around  the  fireplace  in  the  evening  I  managed 
to  get  my  seat  right  in  front  of  my  father-in-law's  where  he 
couldn't  see  my  face  and  when  ]\Ir.  Roberts  began  talking 
again  about  his  clearing.  I  said,  ']\Iy  husband  and  I  have  de- 
cided to  accept  your  offer  and  go  and  work  your  ranch  if  you 
want  us  to.'  Husband  didn't  say  anything,  but  father-in-law  was 
terribly  mad,  but  couldn't  object  right  there.  So  then  and 
there  the  bargain  was  struck.  'When  can  you  be  ready?' 
asked  Mr.  Roberts.  'We  haven't  anything  to  get  ready.'  I 
told  him,  'so  we  can  go  any  time.'  In  the  morning  Mr.  Roberts 
sent  some  Indians  with  us  in  a  canoe,  together  with  what  few 
possessions  we  could  call  our  very  own.  We  travelled  all  day 
up  the  Cowlitz,  and  when  we  finally  reached  the  landing  were 
met  by  a  Hudson  Bay  man,  a  friend  of  Roberts',  a  ]\Ir.  Goliar. 
A  brother  of  my  husband  had  taken  the  trail  along  the  river's 
banks  with  the  span  pf  mules  with  which  we  proposed  to  plow 
the  land.  At  the  landing  we  were  met  by  a  brother  of  ]Mr. 
Roberts  with  a  yoke  of  Spanish  oxen  and  only  the  running  gear 
of  a  wagon.  I  just  couldn't  stick  on  that  wagon  gear,  so  our 
things  were  tied  on  as  best  we  could  and  Willie  and  I  were 
put  on  one  of  the  mules.  I  had  a  man's  saddle  and  had  to  hold 
the  baby,  so  couldn't  manage  the  beast  very  well,  and  when 
we  were  about  four  miles  from  the  end  of  our  destination  mv 


126  THURSTON  COUNTY 

mule  bucked  me,  Willie  and  the  saddle  off.  I  struck  my  head 
against  the  root  of  a  tree  and  that  is  where  I  g"ot  this  scar." 
(Mrs.  Pattison  pushed  back  her  silver  hair  and  showed  a  very 
perceptible  scar  above  the  temple).  "Husband  came  back  to 
see  what  was  the  matter,  and  as  we  still  had  four  miles  to  go 
and  as  it  was  getting  on  towards  night  I  just  had  to  climb  up 
on  that  mule  again  and  ride  him  on  to  the  clearing.  Well, 
when  we  finally  got  there  we  found  that  the  house  we  had 
been  promised  was  a  good  half  mile  away  and  not  finished  at 
that  and  it  was  raining  hard.  What  to  do  then?  There  we 
were  miles  and  miles  from  anywhere  with  no  roof  to  cover  us 
for  the  night.  While  the  men  were  bemoaning  the  hard  plight 
I  looked  around  and  spied  a  sheep  shed  that  had  been  aban- 
doned the  year  before  by  the  Hudson  Bay  people,  as  it  was 
their  custom,  when  one  pasturage  was  eaten  off,  to  drive  the 
flock  on  to  some  new  place.  I  went  over  and  looked  in  and 
decided  that  here,  at  least,  was  shelter,  for  there  was  a  fairly 
good  roof  and  the  dirt  floor  was  dry,  although  lumpy  and 
rough  from  the  sheeps'  feet.  I  called  the  men  and  started  to 
fix  a  pole  across  one  side  of  the  pen  to  hold  our  bedding  in 
position  during  the  night.  I  then  had  our  bedclothes  unloaded 
from  the  wagon  and  made  the  bed  so  the  baby  could  go  to 
sleep.  There  was  a  big  log  right  in  front  of  the  opening  or 
door  of  the  sheep  shed,  so  the  men  made  a  big  fire  there  and  I 
got  supper.  As  the  season  was  getting  late,  the  men  had  to 
go  right  to  plowing,  so  they  left  Willie  and  me  there  to  get 
settled  as  best  I  could.  The  first  thing  was  to  clean  house,  so 
I  hacked  a  good  stout  branch  off  a  tree  and  with  long  tough 
grasses  I  managed  to  tie  cedar  branches  to  this  stick  for  a 
broom.  I  then  swept  the  roof  and  w^alls  of  the  shed,  smoothed 
down  the  dirt  floor  the  best  I  could  and  began  to  make  my 
furniture.  Not  far  from  the  sheep  shed  there  had  been  a  barn 
made  of  boards  hewn  out  by  hand  and  put  together  without 
nails,  the  joists  tied  together  with  rawhide  thongs.  During 
the  previous  winter  this  barn  had  blown  over  sideways,  loos- 
ening a  number  of  the  boards  so  I  could  pull  them  away.  The 
only  tools  I  had  to  work  with  were  a  hammer,  ax  and  augur — 
no  saw,  and  I  would  have  given  an  eye  tooth  for  a  saw. 

"My  first  work  was  to  put  a  floor  in  the  shed,  so  I  dragged 
these  wide  boards  from  the  barn  and  as  they  were  much  too 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  127 

long,  I  slipped  them  along  the  dirt  floor,  letting  one  end  push 
out  under  the  logs,  which  didn't  come  quite  to  the  ground. 
Many  and  many  a  trip  I  had  to  make  betvveen  the  barn  and  the 
shed  before  I  had  finished,  Willie  trailing  along  after  me  every 
trip,  never  whining  and  complaining  as  most  babies  would  do 
these  days — just  trailing  along.  When  the  floor  was  done  1 
hacked  with  an  ax  enough  boards  to  go  inside,  and  with  these 
made  a  sort  of  a  platform  on  one  side  of  the  shed.  On  this 
I  spread  a  lot  of  hay  that  had  been  left  in  the  barn  and  there 
was  our  bed.  When  the  barn  was  blown  over  it  left  exposed 
some  of  the  round  stumps  Avhich  had  been  used  for  corner 
foundations.  I  rolled  two  of  these  to  the  shed — our  seats. 
After  a  long  time  and  with  lots  of  work.  Mr.  Pattison  and  I 
bored  auger  holes  in  the  boards  of  the  floor  in  which  we  fixed 
two  upright  sticks  cut  from  the  woods ;  on  these  I  put  some 
boards,  letting  one  end  extend  out  through  a  crack  between 
the  logs,  and  so  we  had  a  table — all  the  furniture  we  wanted 
or  could  use.  I  did  my  cooking  and  Ave  kept  warm  by  the 
open  fire  in  front  of  the  shed.  We  lived  there  all  that  summer 
and  until  the  crops  were  harvested.  Later  in  the  fall  we  moved 
into  Mr.  Roberts'  house,  a  half  mile  away  from  the  field,  which 
the  men  finished  in  a  rough  way  for  occupancy.  While  in 
this  house  a  band  of  Indians  came  by  one  morning.  They 
came  close  to  the  door  to  look  in,  as  we  w'ere  a  sort  of  curiosity' 
to  them.  Willie  stood  in  the  open  door  watching  them,  and 
so  came  in  contact  with  them.  Their  papooses  had  a  contagious 
disease,  but  I  didn't  know  it  then.  The  baby  caught  this 
disease  and  died  within  a  few  days.  I  thought  I  never  could 
get  over  that  blow.  When  the  crops  were  gathered  we  took 
the  wheat  to  the  barn  of  Mr.  Gobar,  our  nearest  neighbor. 
and  flailed  the  wheat  out  on  his  floor.  He  gave  us  the  use 
of  his  fanning  mill  and  we  had  a  considerable  lot  of  wheat 
and  potatoes  to  pay  us  for  our  summer's  work. 

"One  day  while  I  was  sitting  at  the  door  of  the  sheep 
shed  with  Willie  playing  at  my  feet,  who  should  come  riding 
down  the  trail  but  a  white  woman  with  a  little  boy  astride  on 
the  horse  behind  her.  It  proved  to  be  Mrs.  George  Barnes, 
who  Avas  just  married  and  coming  to  Olympia  from  Portland 
AA'ith  her  young  husband.  The  boy  Avas  her  little  brother,  John 
Miller  Murphy.     Hoav  glad  I  was  to  see  one  of  my  sex  I  can 


128  THURSTON   COUNTY 

never  tell  yon,  and  years  afterwards  when  we  finally  settled 
in  Olympia,  ^Mrs.  Barnes  renewed  the  acquaintance  began  in 
front  of  the  sheep  shed  and  we  became  fast  friends.  oMany  a 
night  ^Irs.  Barnes  would  take  her  lantern  and  come  along  the 
trail  to  my  house  to  visit  me  during  the  evening  while  my 
children  were  sleeping.  She  was  a  good  woman  and  I  will 
never  forget  her. 

"About  this  time  we  decided  to  take  advantage  of  the 
Government's  liberal  offer  in  regard  to  donation  claims.  In 
those  days  to  every  man  was  given  the  chance  to  take  up  640 
acres  of  land  and,  as  an  encouragement  to  the  women  who  had 
to  endure  the  trials  and  privations  of  the  wilderness,  for  a 
very  few  years  the  Government  made  the  offer  to  her  of  an 
equal  amount  of  land  as  that  her  husband  was  given,  as  a  sort 
of  a  recompense  for  her  hardships.  Uncle  Sam  gave  us  women 
this  land  just  as  he  would  a  new  dress  or  something  else  we 
wanted  real  badly,  for  it  was  a  recognized  fact  the  women 
were  worth  as  much  as  the  men  in  settling  up  and  developing 
the  new  country.  Well,  with  an  ox  team  we  came  to  Tum- 
water,  or  Newmarket,  as  it  was  called  then.  Crosby's  mill  and 
store  was  about  all  that  there  was  there.  We  swam  the  oxen 
across  the  Des  Chutes  River  and  went  out  on  what  was  even 
then  called  Chambers  Prairie,  travelling  through  big  woods  all 
the  way.  David  Chambers  was  living  on  the  Chambers  home- 
stead and  we  took  up  our  donation  claims  next  to  his.  Pat- 
tison  Lake  was  on  our  place  and  was  named  from  my  hus- 
band. Here  we  built  what  was  to  be  our  home  for  many  long, 
hard  years — a  log  cabin,  added  to  from  time  to  time  as  the 
babies  began  to  come.  Three  of  my  children  were  born  there. 
It  was  a  hard,  lonesome  life  I  led  there.  It  seemed  that  if  ever 
there  was  a  hard,  unpleasant  thing  to  be  done  I  was  the  one 
to  be  called  on.  For  a  few  years  I  had  no  babies  to  keep  me 
tied  down,  so  whenever  the  neighboring  women  for  ten  miles 
around  were  sick,  or  there  was  a  new  baby  came,  or  a  death — 
any  trouble —  I  was  always  the  first  one  sent  for,  and  I  was 
nothing  but  a  kid  in  years  myself." 

Here  Mrs.  Pattison  ceased  talking  for  a  moments  and  be- 
gan silently  musing  into  the  past.  Her  eyes  grew  dreamy  and 
it  was  plain  that  once  again  the  heroic  woman  was  ministering 
the  wants  of  the  friends  who  long  since  have  finished  their 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  129 

work.    xV  query  about  the  Indian  war  brought  her  wide  awake 
again  and  started  her  flow  of  reminiscences. 

*'Yes,  indeed,  I  was  in  the  Indian  war,  and  knew  the  in- 
stant ISlr.  William  White  was  killed,  for  I  heard  the  shot  and 
saw  part  of  the  struggle.  Mr.  White,  with  his  wife  and  her 
sister,  i\Irs.  Stewart,  had  been  to  church  that  day,  the  two 
women,  each  with  a  little  child  in  her  arms,  were  riding  in  a 
cart,  with  Mr.  White  walking  behind  with  the  lines  in  his  hands 
driving  the  horse,  when  the  Indians  emerged  on  foot  from  a 
little  point  of  timber  a  little  ahead  of  them.  They  began  to 
struggle  with  JMr.  White  and  the  horse  became  frightened  and 
ran  away  with  the  women.  This  brought  them  away  safe,  and 
the  last  Mrs.  White  saw  of  her  husband  in  life  he  was  grap- 
pling with  a  big  Indian  buck.  We  knew  very  well  that  Mr. 
White  was  killed,  but  none  dared  to  go  after  his  body  that 
evening,  so  all  night  we  waited  in  fear  and  trembling,  not 
knowing  what  moment  the  Indians  would  attack  our  cabin, 
but  we  were  not  molested,  and  in  the  morning  my  men  folks 
started  after  Mr.  White.  I  told  them  to  take  one  of  my  sheets 
along,  which  they  did.  They  found  the  body  where  they 
thought  they  would.  There  had  evidently  been  a  great  strug- 
gle before  Sir.  White  gave  up  his  life,  for  the  ground  was  all 
torn  up  and  trampled.  Mr.  White's  dog  had  stayed  by  his 
master  all  night.  The  Indians  had  stripped  the  body  of  every 
stitch  of  clothing  except  the  boots.  Our  men  placed  the  body 
on  a  board  they  had  taken  for  that  purpose,  spread  the  sheet 
over  him  and  brought  the  remains  to  the  spring  in  front  of  our 
house.  They  called  me  and  I  bound  up  the  dead  man's  head 
the  best  way  I  could  to  hide  the  cruel  wounds  and  bruises  the 
Indians  had  made.  One  arm  was  broken  and  he  was  shot 
through  a  vital  part.  Then  I  spread  another  clean  sheet  over 
the  form  and  the  men  carried  him  on  the  board  to  a  vacant 
house  belonging  to  Mr.  Chambers.  I  followed  on  foot  and 
that  wasn't  an  easy  thing  to  do.  When  we  got  to  the  house 
we  were  joined  by  Mrs.  White  and  the  neighbors.  Among  the 
most  pathetic  events  of  this  awful  day  was  the  arrival  of  IMrs. 
Bigelow,  Mr.  White's  daughter.  Mrs.  Bigelow  had  only  been 
married  a  little  over  a  year  and  was  quite  a  young  girl.  She 
came  galloping  up  with  her  four-months '-old  ])al)y  in  her 
arms,  the  rain  simply  pouring  down  on  the  mother  and  child. 


130  THURSTON  COUNTY 

My  husband  took  the  baby  and  helped  the  distracted  girl  from 
her  horse.  She  ran  into  where  her  father's  body  was  laid  and 
I  tell  yon  that  M'as  hard.  too.  I  warmed  the  baby  and  tended 
it  all  day.     That  baby  is  now  Mrs.  Tirzah  Koyal. 

"We  buried  Mr.  White  out  in  the  little  cemetery  on  Cham- 
bers Prairie  and  then  had  to  return  to  our  homes.  When  I 
started  back,  one  after  another  of  the  neighboring  women 
begged  to  go  with  me  and  stay  at  our  house  till  the  scare  quieted 
down.  So  in  all  we  were  fourteen  who  were  sheltered  by  our 
two-room  cabin.  Here  we  stayed  for  three  weeks  while  the  men 
were  building  the  block  house.  This  block  house  on  Chambers 
Prairie  was  standing  until  a  few  years  ago.  As  I  had  a  big 
Dutch  oven  I  baked  all  the  bread  that  was  consumed  by  these 
fourteen  people,  and  I  can  tell  you  I  baked  every,  and  all 
day,  too. 

"When  the  block  house  was  finished  we  all  moved  in. 
The  families  who  were  there  at  that  time  and  who  had  rooms  in 
the  block  house  were  Thomas  Chambers,  the  McMillans,  Mrs. 
White  "with  her  children,  the  O'Neals,  the  Parsons  and  Mrs. 
Stewart.  Mrs.  Stewart  gave  birth  to  a  baby  the  day  after  we 
moved  in.  Almost  all  our  men  had  joined  the  volunteers  to 
fight  the  Indians  and  we  women,  with  the  children,  had  to 
stay  there  all  the  time  with  one  or  two  men  left  to  guard  us. 
We  brought  our  water  from  the  creek,  the  banks  of  which 
had  been  cleared  of  brush  so  the  Indians  couldn't  ambush 
there.  It  was  very  unhandy  to  do  our  work,  for  each  family 
had  only  one  room  in  the  block  house  to  live  in,  and  every- 
thing— cooking,  washing,  sleeping — had  to  be  done  in  this  one 
room.  I  got  so  tired  of  that  way  of  living  that  we  were  the 
first  familj^  to  return  to  our  home,  but  we  were  not  molested 
and  soon  took  up  our  regular  way  of  living. 

"Well,  the  years  passed  and  we  had  three  children  who 
were  ready  to  be  sent  to  school,  so  we  sold  my  part  of  the 
donation  claim  to  David  Chambers  and  moved  into  town,  where 
the  children  could  have  advantages  and  see  something.  We 
came  to  Olympia  the  week  Lincoln  was  assassinated.  I  was 
glad  to  come,  for  we  were  all  good  and  tired  of  living  away  out 
there.  We  bought  a  place  of  John  Swan,  on  the  Eastside. 
which  has  been  the  Pattison  home  ever  since,  although  the 
orchard  that  my  husband  planted  has  long  ago  been  divided 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES 


131 


up  into  city  lots  and  is  almost  all  built  over  now.  When  we 
moved  to  our  new  home,  Mrs.  Bigelow,  Mrs.  Horton  and  a  little 
later,  Dr.  Lansdale,  were  my  only  neighbors.  We  have  had 
seven  children,  only  two,  my  son  James  Renwick  and  Mrs. 
Brad  Davis,  are  still  living.  My  husband,  father-in-law,  all 
the  Pattison  brothers,  my  babies,  all  are  gone,  but  I  am  still 
here." 


132  THURSTON   COUNTY 


LOUIS  BETTMAN 


Louis  Bettman  came  to  Olvmpia  in  1853  from  the  land  of 
his  nativity,  the  province  of  Bavaria,  Germany,  while  a  mere 
lad  of  20  years  of  age.  In  company  with  his  brothers,  Mose 
and  Sig  Bettman,  he  opened  a  general  merchandise  store  in 
the  newly  settled  hamlet  of  Olympia.  The  location  of  this 
pioneer  store  was  on  the  corner  of  Main  and  Second  Streets. 
Indeed,  all  the  business  conducted  in  the  hamlet  was  centered 
within  a  radius  of  a  very  few  blocks  in  that  neighborhood. 
Contemporaneous  merchants  were  George  Barnes,  Gus.  Rosen- 
thal and  Thomas  Macleay  and  Samuel  Percival. 

There  was  very  little  money  in  circulation  among  the 
pioneer  settlers,  consequently  much  of  the  trade  consisted  in 
bartering  groceries,  shoes  and  dry  goods  for  butter,  wool,  hides 
and  some  grain.  As  the  price  allowed  for  these  commodities 
was  very  low  and  the  demand  from  San  Francisco  brisk  for 
every  kind  of  produce,  the  profits  accruing  to  the  merchants 
by  the  exchange  was  considerable. 

In  1860  Mr.  Bettman  took  a  pleasure  trip  to  San  Francisco 
and  while  there  met  and  fell  in  love  with  ]\Iiss  Amelia  Coblentz, 
who  was  visiting  in  that  city  from  her  home  in  Los  Angeles. 
After  a  very  few  weeks'  courtship  Mr.  Bettman  persuaded 
Miss  Coblentz  to  accompany  him  on  his  return  to  Olympia. 
The  young  couple  started  for  Puget  Sound  immediately  after 
their  wedding.  A  journey  of  four  days  on  a  sailing  vessel 
before  Olympia  was  reached. 

In  Mrs.  Bettman 's  own  words:  "We  landed  at  Brown's 
wharf,  down  on  the  west  side,  which  was  the  only  landing 
place  for  large  vessels  then.  My  first  breakfast  in  the  town 
was  taken  at  the  Pacific  House,  on  the  corner  of  Fourth  and 
INIain  Streets,  with  'Aunt  Becky'  Howard  as  landlady-. 

"We  soon  went  to  housekeeping  in  a  tiny  house  owned 
by  Judge  Landers,  which  stood  for  many  years  on  the  site 
now  occupied  by  the  Mitchell  Hotel.     The  place  was  then  well 


IvOUIS  BETTMAN  AND  WIFE 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  133 

back  in  the  woods  and  surrounded  by  tall,  ugly  stumps.  I 
sometimes  thought  I'd  just  die  of  homesickness  when  I  first 
came  here,  everything  was  so  new  and  strange  and  rough.  I 
thought  I  never  could  endure  to  spend  my  young  life  amid 
such  scenes.  But  when  the  children  began  coming  and  my 
household  cares  kept  increasing  this  feeling  gradually  wore 
awa}'  and  before  I  realized  it  I  had  gained  quite  a  circle 
of  pleasant  acquaintances  and  began  to  feel  at  home  and 
satisfied. 

"The  people  in  the  town  then  were  like  one  big  family. 
Every  once  in  a  while  we  would  get  together  for  an  all-night 
dance.  Everybody  danced  with  everybody  else.  There  were 
no  cliques — nobody  ijut  on  stjde,  and  everything  was  free 
and  easy.  My  intimate  friends  among  the  pioneer  women 
were  Mrs.  George  Blankenship,  Mrs.  Rosenthal,  Mrs.  Chas. 
Burmister,  Mrs.  George  Barnes  and  ]\Irs.  Captain  Doane." 

Mrs.  Bettman  was  reticent  in  talking  about  herself  and 
husband,  but  it  needs  no  historian  to  recall  to  the  memory  of 
the  old  timers  that  Mr.  Bettman  was  always  prominently  identi- 
fied with  the  prosperity  of  the  growing  city  and  at  the  time 
of  his  death  in  1904  had  accumulated  a  considerable  property 
and  left  a  reputation  for  business  integrity  and  personal  honor 
which  entitles  his  memory  to  a  niche  in  the  hall  of  fame  of 
Olympia  pioneers. 

Three  children  were  born  to  ]\Ir.  and  Mrs.  Bettman :  Belle. 
Mrs.  Oppenheimer ;  Josephine,  who  died  several  years  before 
her  father,  and  W.  W.  Bettman,  the  latter  still  conducting  the 
store  founded  by  his  father  over  60  years  ago.  Mrs.  Bettm.an 
is  best  known  locally  through  her  untiring  labors  in  the  Ladies' 
Relief  Society.  For  many  years  she  has  been  chairman  of  the 
relief  committee  of  this  society  and  wherever  and  whenever 
she  hears  the  call  of  want  or  distress  Mrs.  Bettman  responds 
with  ready  sympathy,  judicious  expenditure  of  the  society's 
funds  and  unfailing  judgment. 


134  '  THURSTON   COUNTS 


THOMAS  PRATHER 


A  dark,  rainy  afternoon  was  devoted  to  g-atliering  such 
fragments  of  the  reminiscences  of  that  Nestor  of  Pioneers, 
Thomas  Prather,  as  stood  out  most  prominently  in  his  recol- 
lection. 

Had  the  compiler  of  this  sketch  kept  to  original  inten- 
tions and  recorded  word  for  word  the  story  of  Mr.  Prather 's 
experiences  as  told  by  himself,  the  reader,  as  was  the  writer, 
would  be  led  a  merry  chase  from  Boone  County,  Missouri,  to 
California,  back  to  the  boyhood  home  again,  then  to  Oregon, 
down  to  Panama,  out  to  sea,  struggling  with  sea  sickness, 
to  the  Colville  gold  fields,  fighting  Indians,  making  love  to 
the  Pioneer  maidens,  canoeing,  surveying,  logging,  always  in 
the  front  ranks  of  action,  and  ever  and  always  every  whit 
a  man,  and  now,  in  his  declining  years  drifting  into  a  quiet 
eddy,  spending  his  days  at  peace  with  his  God  and  his  fellow 
man. 

As  the  tale  progressed  and  Mr.  Prather 's  memory  travelled 
back  to  the  scenes  and  incidents  of  those  stirring  times  a 
reminiscent  glow  came  into  his  eyes,  his  form  straightened 
and  many  times  he  would  stride  around  the  room  in  the  ex- 
citement of  calling  once  again  from  the  shades  of  the  past 
those  friends  who,  shoulder  to  shoulder  with  him,  laid  the 
foundation  of  our  city  and  made  possible  the  prosperity  and 
advantages  the  descendants  of  these  men  and  women  enjoy 
today. 

Although  Mr.  Prather 's  reminiscences  were  often  rambling 
and  embroidered  with  many  irrevelant  particulars,  his  memory 
was  surprisingly  good  and  his  unswerving  loyalty  to  his  old 
time  friends  and  associates  was  a  beautiful  tribute  to  the 
warm  feelings  these  Pioneers  entertained  for  each  other.  The 
essential  incidents  of  Mr.  Prather 's  life  as  told  by  himself 
are  as  follows : 

"I  was  born  in  Boone  County,  Missouri,  in  1832,  which 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  135 

makes  me  in  the  neighborhood  of  82  years  of  age.  I  was 
the  fifth  son  of  my  parents,  and  a  hard  struggle  we  had  for 
existence  on  my  father's  plantation  in  the  then  territory  of  I\Iis- 
souri.  My  father  died  when  I  was  only  eight  years  old,  and  I 
can  remember  spending  many  a  day  in  the  hot  sun  dropping 
corn  for  25  cents  for  the  ten  hours'  work. 

"In  18-19,  came  the  story  of  the  gold  strike  in  California, 
and  my  brother  James  took  the  gold  fever  and  left  for  the 
West.  The  following  Spring  of  1850,  I  said:  'Now,  Tom,  no 
more  working  for  25  cents  a  day,  when  you  might  as  well  be 
getting  from  $6  to  $8  a  day  in  the  gold  fields.'  So  in  spite 
of  mother's  remonstrances,  I  left  the  school  room,  joined 
an  ox  train,  and  came  to  California,  spending  seven  and  a 
half  months  on  the  journey. 

"AVhen  I  got  there,  sure  enough,  I  went  to  work  at  once 
for  $6  a  day,  and  soon  had  saved  up  $250,  which  was  more 
money  than  I'd  ever  had  at  one  time  before  in  my  life.  I 
was  sick,  however,  and  thought  I  had  better  pull  out  of  there 
and  go  home.  I  went  by  water  this  time,  by  the  way  of 
Psnama. 

"I  had  no  sooner  got  back  to  Missouri  than  the  lure  of 
the  "West  called  me  again,  so  in  the  Spring  of  1852,  when  Judge 
Gilmore  Hays  and  Andrew  Cowen,  as  partners,  organized  a 
wagon  expedition  to  come  to  the  almost  unknown  country 
called  Oregon,  I  tendered  my  services,  which  were  accepted. 

"This  train  consisted  of  fourteen  wagons,  with  a  total 
of  99  human  beings,  men,  women  and  children.  Among  the 
emigrants  were  the  four  Hays  brothers,  all  of  whom  remained 
in  the  West  and  became  identified  with  Thurston  county's 
early  history,  four  Yantis  brothers.  Dr.  N.  Ostrander  and 
twenty-five  young  men,  the  latter  paying  the  partners,  Hays 
and  Cowen,  $125  each  for  grub  and  for  having  their  blankets 
hauled  across  the  continent.  They  all  rode  their  horses,  as 
did  I,  myself.  Most  important  of  all  the  train's  people  to 
Tom  were  five  (in  my  eyes),  beautiful  young  ladies,  who  rode 
with  us  every  day  on  their  own  horses.  As  I  was  generally 
a  handy  man  about  the  train,  I  said  to  myself,  'Well,  Tom. 
here's  where  you  have  a  picnic,'  so  I  made  the  charge  of  these 
girls  my  special  duty,  helping  them  mount  their  horses  in  the 
morning  and  to  dismount  when  camp  was  reached.  These 
girls  were  Kate  Yantis,  her  cousin.  Sarah  Yantis,  afterwards 


136  THURSTON  COUNTY 

Mrs.  G.  C.  Blankenship,  two  Ostrander  girls,  and  Jerusha  Jane 
Logan  Hays,  the  beautiful  daughter  of  the  captain  of  the 
train. 

''One  other  special  duty  was  assigned  me  by  Captain 
Hays  and  it  was  to  see  that,  every  morning  as  camp  was  broken, 
that  a  pair  of  saddle  bags  were  securely  strapped  onto  a 
stripped  mule,  which  was  always  ridden  by  the  oldest  Hays 
boy,  and  well  I  should  be  careful  of  these  saddle  bags  for  in 
them  were  $12,000  in  $20  gold  pieces,  which  Captain  Hays 
was  bringing  with  him  to  buy  cattle  and  stock  the  homestead 
which  he  proposed  preempting  when  the  Golden  West  was 
reached. 

"Well,  before  the  train  reached  The  Dalles,  which  was 
our  destination,  I  became  infatuated  with  the  appearance  of 
the  Grande  Rounde  valley  and  persuaded  the  captain  to  sell 
me  a  wagon-load  of  flour,  bacon,  sugar  and  coffee.  I  set  a 
small  'A'  tent  up  beside  the  road  and  soon  disposed  of  the  en- 
tire stock  at  ciuite  advanced  prices  to  the  emigrants  who  came 
along  the  train  and  were  running  short  of  provisions. 

"I  again  joined  Captain  Hays  at  The  Dalles  and  helped 
him  drive  a  drove  of  cattle,  v.-hich  he  had  purchased  down 
ttc  Columbia  river,  to  the  site  of  the  City  of  Portland,  although 
tiien  but  a  settlement  of  a  few  log  houses. 

"In  the  Spring  of  1853,  I  came  to  Olympia,  which  was 
only  a  few  years  old.  Did  I  come  in  a  steam  car?  Did  I 
come  in  an  automobile,  or  even  did  I  come  in  a  dead  ex  wagon? 
No,  sir,  Tom  walked  every  step  of  the  way  from  the  Cowlitz 
landing,  carried  his  blankets  and  worldly  possessions  and 
thought  it  but  a  pleasure  jaunt. 

"When  I  got  here  there  was  just  one  white  woman  in 
Olympia."  (Mr.  Prather's  memory  probably  failed  him  here 
for  there  were  several  women  living  here  at  that  time,  ]\Irs. 
George  Barnes,  Mrs.  Alexander,  INIrs.  Rider,  Lucy  and  Char- 
lotte Barnes,  Mary  Wood,  Mrs.  Pullen,  afterward  Mrs.  R.  H. 
Wood  and  several  others  who  contemporaneous  pioneers  were 
enabled  to  remember). 

"There  were  about  forty-five  white  men,  and  three  chil- 
dren. I  am  sorry,  but  I  have  forgotten  the  woman's  name. 
There  was  a  big  band  of  Indians  camped  on  the  west  side, 
coming  to  this  side  in  canoes  for  the  purpose  of  bartering 
fish,  oysters  and  berries  for  sugar,  flour,  bacon  and  calico. 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  137 

"I  especially  remember  J(ihn  ]Miller  Sliirphy  among  the 
white  people  I  found  npon  my  arrival  in  Olympia.  He  was 
then  a  fat,  red-cheeked  lad  of  probably  ten  years  of  age,  liv- 
ing with  his  sister,  Mrs.  Barnes,  and  a  favorite  with  everybody. 

"The  donation  claims  of  Edmnnd  Sylvester,  Edwin  Marsh 
and  James  Swan  covered  all  that  portion  of  the  territory  which 
is  now  known  as  Olympia,  East  Bay  avenue  and  the  East  side. 
Old  timers  still  refer  to  Swantown  and  IMarshville  in  speaking 
of  these  sections. 

"Charles  Weed  was  the  baker  for  the  settlement  and  the 
bread  he  turned  out  of  shorts  was  considered  a  great  luxury 
by  me.  Of  course,  when  a  sailing  vessel  would  come  in  from 
San  Francisco  there  would  be  some  white  flour,  which  was 
eagerly  bought  up  by  the  storekeeper,  George  Barnes  and 
Weed,  but  there  was  never  enough  to  last  till  the  next  ship 
arrived.  However,  the  store  of  clams  was  inexhaustible  and 
the  settlers  were  beginning  to  raise  potatoes  and  garden  truck, 
and  once  in  a  while  a  steer  was  killed,  so  we  had  fresh  beef 
occasionally,  and  there  was  plenty  of  the  best  fish  in  the  world, 
but  clams  and  hard  tack  were  the  staples  of  life. 

"In  those  days  the  newspapers  came  from  San  Francisco 
about  every  six  months,  so  we  were  always  a  half  year  be- 
hind the  happenings  of  the  outside  world.  It  was  considered 
quite  an  event  when  finally  a  mail  route  was  established  and 
v\^e  got  our  papers  onl^^  three  months  behind  date  of  publica- 
tion. My  first  work  upon  arrival  in  Olympia  was  logging 
for  Captain  Percival,  up  the  creek,  which  even  then,  and  still, 
bears  the  name  of  this  noted  pioneer  sea  captain.  After  spend- 
ing a  few  weeks  at  this  work  winter  set  in  and  the  camp  closed 
down.  George  Barnes  then  offered  me  $100  for  clearing  the 
block  of  land  he  had  recently  acquired,  bounded  by  Fourth, 
Fifth,  Adams  and  Jefferson  Streets,  which  Avas  for  so 
many  years  the  Barnes  home,  and  which  is  now,  so  it  is  said, 
to  be  the  site  of  the  new  railroad  depot.  As  this  piece  of 
ground  was  then  covered  with  high  cedar  trees  and  part  of 
it  submerged  by  the  high  tides,  I  refused  the  offer  and  spent 
the  winter  with  a  small  crew  of  men  slashing  thirty-five  acres 
of  forest  land  for  Nathan  Eaton,  nine  miles  from  town,  out  on 
Chambers'  Prairie. 

"As  soon  as  Spring  arrived  I  took  a  job  as  axman  and 


138  THURSTON  COUNTY 

helped  make  the  first  survey  of  an  airline  from  Portland  to 
Paget  Sonnd.  I  stayed  with  this  surveying  party  two  years, 
when  the  Indian  war  broke  out — in  1855.  Then  I  quit  sur- 
veying to  volunteer  under  Judge  Gilmore  Hays,  who  was 
raising  the  first  volunteer  company  in  the  territory. 

"The  call  for  volunteers  was  made  b}''  Acting  Governor 
Charles  H.  Mason,  as  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  was  at  that  time 
in  the  Blackfoot  country,  trying  to  make  treaties  with  the 
Indians  there. 

"This  was  in  1855,  and  our  company  comprised  80  volun- 
teers. We  were  mustered  in  at  Fort  Steilacoom,  Judge  Hays 
being  commissioned  captain.  Our  company  was  then  sent 
east  of  the  mountains,  as  it  was  there  that  all  the  trouble 
with  the  Indians  was  reported,  the  Puget  Sound,  or  "Fish" 
Indians,  as  they  were  called,  being  apparently  friendly  to  the 
whitest. 

"But  we  had  no  more  than  crossed  the  mountains  than 
along  comes  Bill  Tidd,  the  pony  express  rider,  with  a  message 
from  Acting  Governor  Mason  to  the  effect  that  Col.  Steptoe. 
in  command  of  the  United  States  troops,  was  surrounded  at 
Walla  Walla  by  1,000  Indians  and  that  the  Puget  Sound  In- 
dians were  also  on  the  warpath.  We  were  to  hasten  back  to 
protect  the  settlers  in  the  White  River  country.  Returning  to 
this  side  of  the  mountains,  through  the  Natchez  Pass,  we 
camped  for  the  night  at  Connell's  Prairie,  just  about  where 
the  interurban  line  traverses  the  White  River  valley.  In  the 
morning  Captain  Hays  detailed  me  and  four  other  men  to 
guard  the  supplies  and  with  the  rest  of  the  company,  which 
had  now  been  increased  in  numbers  by  the  addition  of  Lieu- 
tenant Slaughter  and  twenty  soldiers  from  the  United  States 
troops,  started  to  ford  the  White  River  to  battle  with  the  In- 
dians. As  the  men  plunged  into  the  river,  the  Indians,  con- 
cealed along  the  banks  on  the  far  side,  opened  fire  and  about 
a  dozen  of  our  men  were  killed,  after  which  the  Indians  re- 
treated through  the  jungle.  As  they  carried  their  dead  and 
wounded  with  them,  we  had  no  means  of  knowing  how  many 
of  the  enemy  our  men  picked  off,  but  from  blood  prints  along 
the  train  they  certainly  met  with  a  considerable  loss. 

"Captain  Hays  and  his  men  came  back  to  the  camp  for 
the  night,  and  in  the  morning,  each  man  taking  one  day's 
rations  with  him,  w^e  started  after  the  Indians  along  a  trail 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  139 

SO  wild  and  narrow  that  we  had  to  go  sing-le  file  most  all  the 
way.  We  could  hear  the  Indians  not  far  ahead  of  us — their 
ponies  crashing  through  the  brnsh  and  dogs  yelping.  In  this 
way  we  came  to  a  branch  of  Stuck  river,  I  think  it  must  have 
been.  The  Indians  were  not  in  sight,  but  it  was  expected  they 
v\"er3  ambushed  on  the  other  side  of  the  river.  Captain  Hays 
called  for  volunteers  to  wade  across  the  river  and  draw  the 
Indians'  fire,  if  indeed  they  were  hiding  in  the  brush.  After  a 
moment's  hard  thinking  I  said:  'Yes,  Captain  Hays,  I'll  go.' 
Then  Lieutenant  Slaughter,  "William  Billings,  Joe  Gibson  and 
Joe  Brannon  joined  me. 

"When  I  stepped  into  the  water  I  went  in  over  my  waist 
mto  a  chuck  hole  made  by  the  Indian  horses.  IMy  blunderbuss 
got  wet,  but  I  held  it  over  my  head  the  rest  of  the  way  across 
the  river.  Every  step  I  expected  the  next  instant  would  be  my 
last,  but  v/e  reached  the  far  shore  in  safety  and  vvxre  joined 
by  the  rest  of  the  company.  The  boys  began  firing  wildly  into 
the  brush,  but  as  I  didn't  see  anything  to  shoot  at.  I  saved  my 
bullets  and  waited  before  firing.  So  it  came  abor^t  that  I  was 
never  really  in  an  Indian  fight,  for  after  crossing  the  river  the 
trail  grew  so  bad  that  Captain  Hays  decided  we  had  better 
return  to  Montgomery's,  a  Hudson  Bay  man's  place,  and  v/ait 
further  orders.  Soon  after  this  the  entire  company  was  or- 
dered to  Mound  Prairie,  near  Tilley's  ranch,  for  winter 
([uarters. 

"At  this  time  Captain  Hays  was  made  Major  General  of 
the  united  companies  of  the  volunteers  of  the  territory,  but  as 
the  time  for  which  I  had  enlisted  had  expired  and  the  war  was 
practically  in  the  hands  of  the  regular  troops,  I  was  honorably 
discharged  and  did  not  re-enlist. 

"My  next  venture  upon  returning  to  Olympia  after  my 
discharge  was  to  join  Captain  J.  G.  Parker  for  a  trip  to  Vic- 
toria, B.  C.  Captain  Parker  had  sent  to  San  Francisco  for  a 
tiny  steamboat,  which  was  loaded  on  a  sailing  vessel  and  landed 
at  tlie  Etheridge  &  Miller  sawmill,  a  mile  below  Priest's 
l^)int,  and  there  fitted  up  for  the  sea.  This  small  craft  was  the 
very  first  steamboat  on  Puget  Sound.  Captain  Parker  named 
her  'The  Traveler,'  and  as  soon  as  she  was  fitted  up  put  her 
luider  charter  of  the  United  States  government  to  bring  mili- 
tary supj)lies  from  Victoria,  for  which  the  government  was  to 
pay  $50  a  day. 


140  THURSTON  COUNTY 

"I  was  made  mate  of  the  erew,  and,  of  course,  Parker  was 
captain.  Soon  after  leaving  Port  Townsend,  which  then  the 
only  port  of  entry,  the  engine  gave  a  fearful  screech  and  went 
dead.  There  we  were,  out  of  sight  of  land,  no  canoe  or  other 
means  of  leaving  the  boat,  the  waves  of  the  Straits  of  Juan  de 
Fuca  all  but  rolling  over  us,  helpless,  and  at  the  mercy  of  wind 
and  tide.  Then  and  there  I  made  a  vow  that  if  ever  I  reached 
land  again  no  more  sea  life  for  Tom.  But  in  the  morning 
we  were  sighted  by  a  sailing  vessel,  the  Potter,  and  towed  into 
Victoria  harbor.  There  we  found  that  the  boiler  had  split 
in  two  places  wiiich  had  allowed  all  the  steam  to  escape. 

"We  got  the  boiler  repaired,  loaded  and  was  about  to 
start  on  our  return  trip  when  there  passed  by  our  boat  an 
Indian  brave  with  a  big  canoe  in  which  were  his  squaw  and 
pappooses.  I  hailed  the  buck  and  in  Chinook  asked  him, 
'Where  go?'  'Townsend,'  he  replied.  So  I  told  him  I  would 
tow  his  canoe  and  give  him  and  his  family  passage  on  our  big 
canoe  to  Port  Townsend.  He  was  tickled  at  the  chance  and 
I  was  tickled,  too.  I  didn't  want  to  go  drifting  around  those 
waters  again  without  some  kind  of  a  boat  on  board. 

"This  ended  my  steamboating,  although  Captain  Parker 
made  several  other  trips  on  the  Traveler,  which  finally  sank 
near  Port  Townsend,  where  for  years  the  top  of  her  smoke- 
stack could  be  seen  at  low  tide,  although  she  finally  slipped 
off  into  deeper  waters  and  the  exact  spot  of  her  grave  is  not 
known  at  this  day. 

"I  then  went  back  to  surveying,  and  in  1858,  helped  lo- 
cate the  military  road  from  Fort  Steilacoom  to  Fort  Belling- 
ham.  I  am  the  man  who  drove  the  first  stake  in  a  preliminary 
survey  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad,  under  supervision  of 
Jared  S.  Hurd.  This  was  near  Snoqualmie  Falls,  in  King 
County.  About  this  time  I  acquired  the  lot  of  land  on  Wash- 
ington Street,  which  for  so  many  years  was  known  as  the 
Prather  home. 

"For  twelve  years  I  was  county  commissioner,  which  is 
the  only  public  office  I  have  ever  held.  I  think  I  may  state, 
without  undue  boasting,  that  it  was  largely  through  my  ef- 
forts that  Thurston  County  received  the  $150,000  from  the 
sale  of  public  lands  to  build  the  county  court  house,  the  same 
building  which  is  now  the  state  capitol  building,  having  been 
purchased  by  the  state  about  fifteen  years  ago. 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES 


141 


"In  the  early  seventies  I  became  a  guard  at  the  asylum 
for  insane  at  Steilacoom  and  took  my  third  trip  East  in  1876, 
to  attend  the  Philadelphia  exposition.  Soon  after  my  return 
to  Washington  I  was  married  at  Steilacoom  to  Miss  Agnes 
Winsor,  who  was  also  an  attendant  at  the  asylum,  although 
for  the  twelve  previous  years  had  been  teaching  school.  To 
us  were  born  three  children,  Edith  and  her  twin  brother,  who 
died  in  infancy,  and  my  son  Samuel.  Edith  is  now  Mrs.  Wal- 
ter C.  Thompson,  and  lives  in  the  Puj^allup  valley,  and  my 
son  is  in  Alaska." 


142  THURSTON  COUNTY 


WM.  H.  MITCHELL 


The  following  biographical  sketch  of  Mr.  Wm.  H.  JMitchell, 
one  of  onr  most  respected  citizens,  was  typewritten  by  his 
son,  A.  B.  Mitchell,  who  is  wholly  blind,  and  is  so  crippled 
from  rheumatism  that  he  cannot  walk  or  care  for  himself. 
This  is  a  remarkable  verification  of  the  fact  often  noted  that 
the  loss  of  any  one  of  the  five  senses  renders  more  acute  the 
others.  In  this,  the  sense  of  touch  or  feeling  has  produced  a 
manuscript  that  is  the  equal  of  most  experts  on  the  machine. 
It  is,  therefore,  published  verbatim: 

"I  was  born  in  Chicago,  111.,  NovemDer  13,  1834,  and  a 
few  years  later  moved  with  my  parents  to  w^hat  was  then 
South  Port,  Wisconsin.  The  name  has,  however,  since  been 
changed  to  Kenosha.  When  I  had  reached  the  age  of  18,  I 
had  contracted  a  severe  case  of  Oregon  fever  and  had  made 
up  my  mind  to  take  the  long  trip  across  the  plains,  my  ob- 
jective point  being  Olympia.  My  parents  objected  at  first  to 
my  going,  but  later  acquiesced  and  assisted  me  in  preparing 
for  the  trip.  Accordingly,  arrangements  were  made  wdth 
Samuel  Holmes  for  me  to  travel  with  his  family  as  they  were 
leaving  that  Spring  for  the  same  part  of  the  country  to  which 
I  wished  to  go.  A  horse  was  also  provided  for  me  to  ride  and 
on  the  9th  of  April,  1853,  we  left  South  Port  and  traveled 
about  nine  miles  that  day,  and  on  the  next  day,  Sunday,  my 
father  and  mother,  with  my  sister  Eliza,  drove  out  with  a 
horse  and  buggy  and  overtook  our  slower  moving  ox  team. 
They  took  dinner  with  us  there  at  the  beginning  of  our  long 
journey.  They  then  returned  home  while  we  once  more  turned 
our  faces  to  the  setting  sun. 

"The  trail  across  Iowa  was  a  slow  and  tiresome  one  on 
account  of  the  soft  condition  of  the  roads,  the  wagons  often 
going  down  to  the  hubs  in  the  mud.  There  were  plenty  of 
others,  however,  like  ourselves,  making  for  Council  Bluffs,  and 
there  would  often  be  quite  a  train  of  us.     We  were  generally 


WM.  H.  MITCHELL 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  143 

delayed  in  the  mornings.  I  remember  JMrs.  Holmes,  who 
would  still  insist  on  bathing  her  children  every  morning.  She 
found  this  to  be  impossible  later  on,  however.  Council  Bluffs 
was  at  that  time  a  central  pjint,  where  the  emigrants  got  to- 
gether and  formed  their  wagons  into  trains  for  the  trip  across 
the  plains,  and  here  could  be  found  all  types  of  the  frontier 
life  mingled  together.  It  was  here  that  a  three-card  monte 
man  relieved  me  of  nearly  all  the  money  that  1  had.  This  was 
a  seiious  loss  to  me,  but  I  think  I  profited  by  the  experience. 

"We  crossed  the  Missouri  River,  June  the  third.  Our 
train,  consisting  of  about  twenty  wagons,  was  well  organized, 
having  a  captain  and  train  master.  Our  course  now  led  up  the 
north  bank  of  the  Platte  River  and  there  was  no  sign  of  hu- 
man habitation  to  be  seen  anywhere.  We  met  a  trader  occa- 
sionally, sometimes  on  horseback  and  sometimes  they  would 
1  ave  a  tent  stretched  beside  the  road  vs^ith  their  goods  dis- 
played in  front,  but  as  they  charged  so  much  for  everything 
they  had  to  sell  no  one  purchased  of  them  until  compelled  to 
do  so  by  sheer  necessity.  There  were  also  bridges  built  over 
some  of  the  rivers  and  at  such  places  there  would  be  one  of 
these  men  to  collect  a  toll  before  allowing  you  to  pass  over 
the  bridge.  There  were  a  few  Indians  also,  but  they  were 
not  hostile  at  that  time  and  never  attacked  us.  We  also  saw 
quite  a  few  buffalo  and  at  one  time  it  was  necessary  for  us  to 
open  up  our  train  that  a  herd  of  them  might  go  through,  oth- 
erwise they  would  have  run  right  over  us.  I  presume  there 
must  have  been  a  thousand  buffalo  in  that  herd.  It  was  in 
this  section  of  the  country  that  we  encountered  a  severe  thun- 
der storm  in  which  the  tent  where  i\Ir.  and  IMrs.  Holmes  vv'ere 
sleeping  was  blown  down  and  they  were  forced  to  come  into 
the  wagon  where  I  was,  to  get  away  from  the  rain.  We  ar- 
rived at  Fort  Kearney  on  July  4th,  having  traveled  a  little 
over  a  thousand  miles  since  crossing  the  Missouri  River. 

"We  now  began  to  see  more  signs  of  the  hardships  to 
which  those  that  had  preceded  us  had  been  subjected,  as  the 
trail  was  strewn  with  deserted  wagons  and  stoves,  in  fact, 
with  everything  that  could  be  spared  to  make  the  load  lighter 
and  everywhere  was  to  be  seen  the  bleached  bones  of  cattle 
that  had  either  died  or  had  been  killed  for  food.  The  Indians 
were  also  more  watchful.  On  one  occasion  two  young  men  of 
our  train,  thinking  thov  could  get  along  faster  on  foot,  started 


144  THURSTON   COUNTY 

on  ahead  one  morning  and  that  afternoon  Ave  came  upon  them. 
The  Indians  had  killed  one  and  the  other  was  so  badly  wounded 
that  he  died  soon  after.  We  buried  him  in  his  blankets  beside 
the  trail  on  the  bank  of  the  Snake  Kiver  and  the  next  day  w^e 
were  overtaken  by  another  train  and  they  told  us  that  the 
Indians  had  dug  him  up  and  taken  his  blankets  and  left  his 
body  on  top  of  the  ground.  I  have  often  wondered  since, 
though  I  thought  nothing  of  it  at  the  time,  why  they  never 
picked  me  off,  as  I  was  in  the  habit  of  riding  ahead  of  the  train 
and  after  fastening  my  horse  to  my  wrist,  I  would  lie  down  and 
wait  for  the  train  to  come  up.  The  only  time  that  I  was  shot, 
however,  w^as  accidental.  I  was  stooping  down  to  get  a  drink 
from  a  river  when  my  revolver  slipped  from  its  holster  and 
was  discharged,  the  ball  lodging  in  my  right  forearm.  It  was 
removed  by  one  of  the  men  with  his  pocket  knife,  this  being 
the  best  medical  instrument  to  be  had.  The  Indians  were 
around  us  and  we  would  often  see  their  camp  fires  at  night 
in  the  foothills  surrounding  our  camp. 

"We  crossed  the  Snake  River  by  caulking  our  wagon 
boxes  with  rags  and  using  them  to  ferry  the  women  and  chil- 
dren across  while  the  cattle  were  made  to  swim.  Our  stock  of 
provisions  becoming  depleted,  Mr.  Holmes  was  compelled  to 
buy  from  a  trader  at  La  Grande,  Oregon.  It  was  at  this  place 
that  one  of  the  men  of  our  train  had  his  wife  stolen  by  the 
trader.  I  remember  hearing  him  calling  through  the  camp 
for  her,  but  she  had  gone  and  taken  the  youngest  child  with 
her  and  he  did  not  tind  her. 

"At  Fort  Walla  Walla  our  train  divided,  part  going  down 
the  Columbia  River  while  the  rest  of  us  went  on  north  and 
through  the  Natchez  pass  in  the  Cascade  mountains.  When 
we  arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains  we  sent  two  men  for- 
ward to  see  if  we  could  get  over  and  they  returned,  reporting 
too  much  snow  for  the  wagons,  so  it  was  decided  to  leave  our 
outfits  at  a  Catholic  mission  that  was  there  and  proceed  on 
foot,  letting  the  women  ride  whatever  there  was  to  ride. 

"Mr.  Wooden  and  myself  were  the  first  to  start  over  the 
pass  and  we  found  the  way  not  nearly  as  bad  as  had  been 
represented  and  by  taking  advantage  of  cut-of¥s,  we  made 
very  good  progress  and  without  misadventure  until  the  last 
night  in  the  mountains  we  became  separated.  Mr.  Wooden 
took  what  he  thought  to  be  a  cut-off  while  I  stayed  on  the 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  145 

trail,  and,  at  night,  as  he  did  not  rejoin  nie,  I  called  him  but 
received  no  answer.  So  I  went  to  sleep  at  the  foot  of  a  tree 
and  the  next  morning  when  I  awoke  I  found  that  I  had  rolled 
several  feet  down  the  mountain  from  where  I  went  to  sleep  and 
it  was  raining  hard,  so  after  stretching  a  piece  of  canvas  over 
some  brush  to  keep  the  rain  off,  I  built  a  fire  and  was  cooking 
the  last  of  my  store  of  rice  when  ]\Ir.  Wooden  came  into  my 
camp.  We  ate  the  rice  that  I  had  prepared  and  started  on  our 
way  again,  and  that  afternoon  met  a  Mr.  Connel,  who  gave  us 
a  little  flour  which  Ave  cooked  on  the  end  of  sticks  and  ate. 
Mr.  Connel  was  a  very  good  friend  to  the  emigrants  and  often 
helped  them  with  provisions,  as  he  had  a  cabin  on  the  west 
side  of  the  mountains,  on  what  is  now  Connel 's  prairie.  He 
was  killed  by  the  Indians  in  the  uprising  of  1855-6.  M^e  took 
supper  at  his  house  and  then,  after  hiring  horses  from  some 
friendly  Indians,  pushed  on  to  Fort  Steilacoom.  I  reroained 
there  but  a  short  time,  however,  but  went  in  a  canoe  with  a 
Mr.  Skidmore  to  Mud  Bay,  where  I  expected  to  go  to  work 
in  his  logging  camp,  but  this  I  did  not  do,  but  went  with  him 
the  next  day  in  a  canoe  to  Olympia,  arriving  there  on  the  6th 
of  October. 

"j\Iy  first  job,  after  arriving  in  Olympia,  was  to  split  and 
carry  in  a  load  of  wood  for  J.  J.  Westbrook,  who  ran  a  saloon 
on  the  east  side  of  Main  street  between  Second  and  Third. 
After  that  I  worked  at  whatever  I  could  get  to  do.  I  joined 
the  volunteers  to  fight  the  Indians  in  the  uprising  of  1855-6. 
serving  but  twenty-one  days,  when  we  mustered  out.  After 
this  I  was  deputy  sheriff  under  Isaac  Hays. 

"In  1856  I  went  into  business  with  John  Stewart.  I  was 
tending  bar  at  the  time  for  Mr.  Westbrook  and  Stewart  asked 
me  if  I  wanted  to  go  into  business,  to  which  I  replied  that  I 
(lid.  but  that  I  had  very  little  money.  John,  however,  said  he 
would  speak  to  Mr.  Hurd,  who  wanted  to  sell  his  baker  shop, 
and  Mr.  Hurd  agreed  to  give  us  time  to  pay  for  the  business, 
so  we  bought  him  out  and  John,  l)eing  a  baker,  took  charge  of 
that  part  of  the  business,  while  I  did  the  best  I  could  by  tend- 
ing the  butcher  shop,  which  we  had  also.  The  first  year  we 
cleared  enough  to  pay  what  we  owed  and  also  to  buy  the  two- 
story  building  which  is  still  standing  on  the  southwest  corner 
of  Third  and  ]\Iain  streets. 

"Perhaps  it  would  be  well  for  me  to  say  a  word  about  the 


146 


THURSTON  COUNTY 


rest  of  those  who  were  in  our  train  when  we  crossed  the  Cas- 
cade mountains.  Mr.  Holmes  and  his  family  settled  near 
Olj'mpia.  Bird  Wright  and  his  two  brothers,  with  their  fam- 
ilies, located  in  the  Puyallup  valley,  as  did  a  Mr.  JMorrison, 
who  was  a  minister.  Mr.  Wooden  went  first  to  the  Nisqually, 
but  later  moved  to  Seattle,  where  he  started  the  first  tannery. 
His  son-in-law,  a  Mr.  Schock,  also  settled  a  few  miles  out  from 
Seattle.  Mr.  B.  L.  Johns,  with  his  eight  children,  one  of  whom 
afterward  became  my  Avife,  located  a  claim  on  White  River, 
near  Seattle.  Mr.  Livingston  settled  in  Seattle,  while  his  two 
daughters,  one  of  whom  married  Will  H.  Brannon,  located  near 
White  River.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Brannon,  with  their  children,  were 
killed  by  the  Indians,  and  Joe  Brannon,  Will's  brother,  after 
the  war,  came  to  Olympia. 

*'0n  the  13th  of  April,  1859,  I  was  married  to  Martha  T. 
Johns,  in  Olympia.  To  this  union,  five  children  were  born, 
William  Walter  was  born  Feb.  29,  1860,  and  died  about  eight 
months  later.  Frank  Wellington  was  born  July  4,  1862,  Henry 
William,  July  30,  1865,  Cora  Edith  born  July  7,  1867.  and 
Albert  Bennett,  born  Aug.  7,  1870.  There  are  also  living  nine 
grandchildren. 

"My  son,  Frank  W.,  died  on  March  19,  1914,  in  Portland. 
Oregon.  My  daughter,  Cora  Edith,  is  now  Mrs.  A.  L.  Young 
of  San  Francisco,  California." 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  '  147 


ANDREW  CHAMBERS 


Had  the  pioneers  who  built  up  this  country,  and  through 
whose  labor  and  enterprise  Washington  has  grown  from  a 
beautiful  wilderness  into  a  land  of  homes  and  cultural  ad- 
vantages, only  taken  the  time  and  trouble  to  write  down  the 
history  of  their  early  trials,  adventures  and  hardships,  and — 
in  many  instances — final  success,  as  did  Andrew  Chambers 
and  his  wife,  ]\Iargaret  White  Chambers,  the  work  of  com- 
piling these  reminiscences  would  have  been  reduced  to  the 
mere  collection  of  the  sketches  and  presenting  them  in  book 
form.  But  too  often,  although  these  men  and  women  realized 
their  experiences  were  unique  in  the  history  of  the  world, 
and  the  days  they  might  tell  of  were  a  closed  chapter  in 
history  which  could  never  be  repeated,  owing  to  the  march 
of  civilization,  the  task  of  actually  writing  down  any  record 
of  events  seemed  too  formidable  or  were  put  off  to  a  later 
time — which  time  never  came. 

But  the  children  of  the  honored  couple  whose  stories  are 
given  in  connection  with  this  article,  were  insistent  with  their 
parents,  and  aided  them  in  every  way  possible  to  put  their 
reminiscences  in  lasting  form.  Well  they  did  so,  too,  for  now 
both  Mr.  and  ]\Irs.  Chambers  are  gone  to  their  last  rest,  leav- 
ing only  cherished  memories. 

The  histories  give  a  completer  and  more  vivid  descrip- 
tion of  the  life  of  those  days  than  would  be  possible  to  ob- 
tain in  any  other  way.  Of  a  high  order  of  intelligence  and 
with  a  natural  eloquence,  the  writers  of  the  sketches  were  en- 
abled to  {  -'esent  the  pictures  of  those  wild  days  with  a  charm 
and  clearness  that  no  words  of  the  writer  could  add  to,  so 
the  reminiscences  of  Mr.  and  INIrs.  Chambers  are  given  word 
for  word  as  they  have  written  them. 

Mrs.  Chambers  dictated  her  sketch  to  her  youngest 
daughter,  Nora,  and  the  other  daughters  were  so  pleased  with 
their  mother's  story  that  they  had  it  preserved  in  the  form 
of  a  booklet. 


148  THURSTON   COUNTY 

The  ten  daughters  of  whom  the  mother  speaks  of  so  lov- 
ingly, were :  Elizabeth,  now  Mrs.  J.  H.  Hnnsaker,  of  Everett ; 
Eliza,  now  Mrs.  R.  T.  Grainger,  of  Puyalkip;  Addie  J.,  now 
Mrs.  G.  N.  Taleott  of  Olympia ;  Ella,  who  was  Mrs.  II.  Ray- 
mond, but  who  has  been  dead  for  many  years;  Rheta,  now 
Mrs.  C.  L.  Denny  of  Seattle ;  Selma,  who  died  about  ten  years 
ago ;  Margaret,  now  Mrs.  Wm.  Calhoun,  of  Seattle ;  Estelle 
and  Edith,  both  of  whom  died  in  infancy,  and  Nora,  now  ]Mrs. 
W.  T.  Hoskins,  living  at  present  in  Sacramento. 

Mr.  Chambers  realized  the  wishes  of  his  wife  as  expressed 
by  herself,  and  ended  a  long  and  honorable  career  by  passing 
away  peacefully  in  the  old  home  on  Chambers'  Prairie.  He 
died  in  April,  1908.  Margaret  White  Chambers  survived  her 
beloved  husband  a  few  years  longer,  but  sank  to  rest  in  De- 
cember, 1912.  Husband  and  wife  sleep  side  by  side  near  the 
scenes  of  their  many  trials,  joys  and  sorrows,  in  the  family 
plot  in  ]\Iasonic  cemetery,  near  Olympia. 


Andrew  Chambers'  Story 

My  father's  reading  Lewis  and  Clark's  Journal  was  the 
means  of  our  crossing  the  plains.  We  started  the  first  of 
April,  1845.  Our  company  consisted  of  my  father,  Thomas  IM. 
Chambers,  mother,  Letitia  Chambers,  five  brothers,  James  W., 
David  J.,  Thomas  J.,  Andrew  J.  (myself),  John  and  IMcLain. 
and  two  sisters,  Mary  Jane  and  Letitia.  My  brothers,  James 
and  David,  were  married,  and  their  wives,  Mary  and  Eliza- 
beth, accompanied  them.  We  started  from  Morgan  County, 
Missouri,  and  crossed  the  IMissouri  River  on  a  ferry  at  St. 
Joe.  This  place  marked  the  last  of  the  settlements.  From 
this  point  we  travelled  the  old  emigrant  road  up  the  Platte 
River.  Our  journey  led  us  through  what  are  now  the  states 
of  Missouri,  Kansas,  Nebraska,  Wyoming,  Idaho,  Oregon  and 
Washington.  Then  this  was  a  wilderness  with  only  the  old 
tracks  of  emigrants  that  had  passed  that  way  in  1834-5.  We 
crossed  the  Kaw  River  about  forty  miles  from  St.  Joe  on  a 
ferry;  after  that  we  forded  all  the  streams  to  which  we  came. 
The  first  day  that  w^e  saw  buffalo  was  on  the  South  Platte 
River  and  it  was  buffalo  as  far  as  the  eve  could  reach.     We 


^^^^^^Hiii^ 

HI 

#^ 

wigi  #T 

"«i    ^« 

flH^ll^^             ^< 

ANDREW  CHAMBERS  AND  WIFE 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  149 

camped  and  killed  fifteen  that  evening.  It  took  two  days  to 
jerk  all  the  meat  we  wanted. 

Buffalo  and  antelope  were  plentiful  for  twelve  or  fifteen 
hundred  miles.  Hunters  sometimes  put  a  handkerchief  up  on 
a  stick  and  the  antelope  came  around  to  see  what  it  was,  and 
often  we  killed  them  by  shooting  from  the  wagons.  We  had 
to  go  out  to  the  edge  of  the  hills  to  hunt  buffalo,  except  the 
first  day  we  saw  them,  of  wdiich  I  have  spoken. 

Opposite  Ash  Hollow  we  crossed  the  Platte  River,  which, 
though  wide  and  shallow,  was  difficult  to  ford. on  account  of 
the  quicksands.  We  passed  near  to  Chimney  Rock,  which  rose 
like  a  great  chimney  from  the  level  country.  We  could  see  this 
land  mark  for  a  number  of  days  and  passed  it  within  five  or 
six  miles. 

At  Fort  Laramie,  on  the  North  Platte  River,  measles  brok'^ 
out  in  our  family  and  we  had  to  lay  by  fifteen  days.  We  had 
overtaken  other  west-bound  wagons  on  our  journey  and  our 
party  now  comprised  thirty  wagons.  While  being  detained 
here  about  one  thousand  wagons  passed  us  and  most  of  our 
company  joined  a  party  and  left  us  at  Laramie. 

From  Fort  Laramie  we  traveled  to  Fort  Hall,  in  Idaho. 
We  had  tried  travelling  with  large  and  w4th  small  companies 
and  found  that  we  got  on  much  faster  with  small  companies, 
but  it  was  very  hard  to  stand  guard  with  only  a  few  in  the 
party.  We  fell  in  with  a  company  of  fifty  wagons.  Their 
teams  had  been  scared  by  the  Indians  and  had  got  in  the  habit 
of  stampeding.  They  stampeded  one  day  while  we  were  with 
them.  It  was  a  terrible  sight  to  see  fifty  teams  running,  each 
team  of  three  or  four  yoke  of  oxen — about  three  yoke  of  cattle 
was  an  average  team.  There  was  no  way  of  holding  them  ex- 
cept to  hang  on  to  the  yokes  and  call  to  the  cattle.  It  was  an 
anxious  time  for  the  women  and  children  in  the  wagons.  One 
ox  fell  and  broke  his  neck.  This  was  the  last  day  we  travelled 
with  them.  After  leaving  Fort  Laramie  Ave  had  fallen  in  witli 
the  wagons  of  what  remained  of  our  old  eompan\'.  This  was 
all  that  saved  us  from  the  stampede  on  that  day. 

This  event  recalls  the  first  Indians  we  saw.  Father  was 
captain  of  the  company.  He  ordered  the  wagons  into  two 
lines,  the  women  and  children  to  stay  in  the  wagons,  except 
those  able  to  carry  guns.  I  can  recollect  seeing  mother  march- 
ing along  carrying  a  rifle.     All  the  horses  and   cnttle   were 


150  THURSTON  COUNTY 

driven  into  the  enclosure  made  by  the  wagons  to  protect  them 
from  stampeding.  We  never  stopped,  but  marched  along-  in 
two  lines,  with  the  wagons  and  the  horses  and  cattle  between 
them.  Father  stepped  out  to  meet  the  chief,  who  was  com- 
ing towards  us.  The  Indians  seemed  friendly,  but  wanted  to- 
bacco. As  soon  as  father  gave  one  tobacco  another  would  step 
up  and  say  "Me  big  Chief,  too."  Father  gave  them  all  that 
he  had  in  his  pouch.  There  was  a  large  camp  of  the  Indians 
and  it  appeared  that  this  was  a  war  party  and  that  they  had 
been  out  to  fight  other  Indians.  They  were  now  on  their  way 
home. 

On  much  of  our  way,  wood  Avas  very  scarce.  We  always 
sent  a  party  ahead  of  us  to  find  wood,  grass  and  water.  We 
found  buffalo  chips  plentiful  for  at  least  a  thousand  miles  and 
often  we  had  to  use  them  altogether  for  fuel.  On  the  Sweet- 
water, in  Wyoming,  we  caught  a  great  many  nice  fish. 

From  Fort  Hall,  we  travelled  to  Fort  Bridgers,  which 
was  about  200  miles  north  of  Salt  Lake.  A  man  by  the  name 
of  Bridgers  was  located  here  and  carried  on  trade  with  the 
emigrants  and  with  the  Indians.  From  here  we  went  to  Sal- 
mon Falls  on  the  Snake  River,  and  here  we  met  a  few  Indians, 
but  they  were  friendly.  Until  we  crossed  the  Rockies  through 
the  Devil's  Gate,  we  travelled  up  hill  and  up  stream,  but  after 
w^e  crossed  the  Snake  River,  the  waters  flowed  westward,  and 
we  could  almost  see  where  the  divide  came. 

From  Salmon  Falls  we  travelled  two  or  three  days  down 
the  river  before  we  crossed.  We  found  a  place  where  there  was 
an  island  in  the  river.  We  crossed  to  the  island  first  and  then 
went  diagonally  across  the  rest  of  the  river,  which  was  about 
three-fourths  of  a  mile  wide.  We  always  took  horses  and  rode 
across  the  rivers  we  had  to  ford  and  found  out  exactly  where 
the  wagons  ought  to  go.  The  fords  were  always  thoroughly 
prospected  before  the  teams  were  driven  into  the  water.  We 
found  at  this  crossing  the  deepest  part  was  eight  or  ten  feet 
wide,  and  deep  enough  to  swim  the  cattle,  the  rest  of  it  aver- 
aged about  two  feet  deep.  We  blocked  up  the  wagon  beds  as 
high  as  the  stanctards  would  allow  to  keep  our  goods  dry  and 
hitched  on  ten  or  twelve  yoke  of  cattle  to  the  first  wagon.  The 
other  wagons  were  fastened  together,  one  behind  the  other. 
There  w^as  a  chain  attached  to  the  tongue  of  the  wagon  follow- 
ing and  that  in  turn  to  the  hind  axle  tree  of    the    forward 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  151 

wagon.  The  drivers  went  to  the  lower  side  of  their  teams  to 
keep  the  cattle  braced  up  against  the  current  and  to  keep 
the  direction  slantingly  up  stream.  They  had  to  hold  on  to 
the  bows  of  the  yokes  to  keep  themselves  braced  up,  too.  By 
the  time  all  the  teams  were  in  the  water,  the  lead  teams  were 
in  shallow  water  and  we  were  finally  safely  over,  without  wet- 
ting any  of  our  goods. 

Shortly  after  this  our  oxen  began  to  give  out.  We  be- 
came uneasy  for  fear  we  could  not  travel  across  the  mountains, 
which  were  before  us,  on  account  of  snow.  To  be  caught  on 
the  east  side  of  the  mountains  meant  almost  certain  death.  AA^e 
began  to  break  in  the  cows.  AVe  started  across  the  plainiv 
with  about  twenty  milk  cows.  B.y  the  time  we  reached  Th« 
Dalles,  in  Oregon,  we  had  about  all  the  cows  broken  in.  They 
were  lighter  on  their  feet  and  travelled  much  better  than  the 
oxen.  AVe  didn't  know  at  that  time  that  we  could  have  saved 
our  catties'  feet  by  providing  ourselves  with  shoes  and  nails 
before  leaving  the  States. 

Three  or  four  days  before  we  came  to  Fort  Boise,  we  were 
camped  on  a  creek  and  when  supper  was  ready  and  each  one 
had  set  down  to  his  place  on  the  ground,  an  Indian,  standing 
there,  knelt  down  at  the  place  intended  for  a  man  named 
Smith.  As  soon  as  Smith  finished  washing  himself,  he  knocked 
the  man  over  with  a  stick  and  took  the  place  himself.  Sticks 
which  the  Indians  had  used  for  digging  roots  or  for  some  other 
purpose,  were  lying  around  plentifully.  The  Indians  looked 
very  sullen  after  this,  and  next  morning  one  of  our  horses  was 
gone — stolen.  AVe  travelled  on  as  though  nothing  had  hap- 
pended  for  two  days  and  came  to  a  place  where  we  thought 
it  advisable  to  rest  the  cattle  for  a  day,  there  being  good  grass 
and  water  there.  James  Chambers,  Smith  and  myself  con- 
cluded to  ride  back  that  evening  to  the  place  where  we  had 
lost  the  horse,  and  it  might  be  we  would  find  an  Indian  camp 
and  do  something  terrible.  Smith  wanted  to  kill  an  Indian. 
AVe  rode  all  night  and  when  we  reached  the  place  another 
party  of  emigrants  were  camping  there  and  we  found  an  In- 
dian there,  riding  on  the  horse  which  was  stolen.  Smith  felt 
all  the  time  that  his  act  had  been  the  cause  of  our  losing  the 
animal  and  he  was  very  anxious  to  straighten  things  out  by 
killing  an  Indian.  Brother  James  went  around  the  camp  one 
way  and  I,  another.    I  came  upon  the  Indian  on  the  horse  and 


152  THURSTON  COUNTY 

I  caught  the  horse.  Immediately  Smith  insisted  on  shooting 
the  Indian,  but  some  of  the  campers  interfered.  They  con- 
tended that  we  were  out  of  the  way  and  that  if  we  killed  the 
Indian  his  friends  would  come  and  take  revenge  on  them.  They 
also  argued  that  this,  maybe,  was  not  the  Indian  that  stole 
the  horse  and  they  urged  us  to  make  the  women  in  camp  feel 
easy  by  releasing  the  Indian.  After  considering  for  some  time 
we  decided  to  let  the  Indian  go  and  give  him  something  to  re- 
compense him  for  being  nearly  scared  to  death.  He  was  so 
badly  frightened  that  great  drops  of  sweat  came  out  on  his 
face.  The  next  thing  to  consider  was  what  to  give  the  Indian. 
As  it  was  coming  on  to  the  fall  of  the  year,  mother  had  sup- 
plied us  well  with  shii'ts.  I  had  enough  to  last  me  two  years 
and  I  had  on  two  at  this  time.  They  agreed  that  I  must  pull 
off  one  of  my  shirts  and  give  it  to  the  Indian.  So  I  did,  and 
all  parties  concerned,  except  myself,  were  well  pleased,  the  In- 
dian most  of  all. 

From  Boise  w^e  travelled  to  Grande  Rounde  and  after  we 
passed  the  valley  and  came  down  off  the  Blue  mountains  into 
the  Umatilla  valley  we  saw  lots  of  Indians.  Mary  Jane,  my 
sister,  was  then  a  comely  girl,  about  sixteen  years  of  age.  In- 
dian chiefs  offered  my  father  fifty  horses  and  a  hundred  blan- 
kets for  her.  They  didn't  care  whether  the  girl  was  willing 
or  not.  They  wanted  a  white  "klootchman."  This  was  their 
custom,  to  pay  for  their  ''klootchman."  ]\Iary  Jane  was 
frightened  and  she  never  showed  herself  when  the  Indians 
were  around. 

"When  we  were  wnthin  a  few  days'  journey  of  The  Dalles, 
and  after  we  had  crossed  the  Des  Chutes  River,  two  horses 
were  stolen  from  us.  "We  went  back  from  Fifteen  IMile  Creek 
to  a  village  near  by  and  called  on  the  Chief.  He  said  he  would 
have  the  Indians  bring  in  the  horses.  We  waited  about  his  tent, 
keeping  guard,  until  an  Indian  came  in  with  the  horses.  They 
claimed  that  the  horses  had  been  stolen  by  some  bad  Indians 
and  that  a  good  Indian  brought  them  back  and  that  he  ought 
to  have  pay  for  it.  We  had  become  accustomed  to  paying,  so 
we  were  prepared  to  give  a  shirt.     This  satisfied  them. 

Our  trip  had  not  been  a  pleasure  trip,  for  from  the  time 
we  left  St.  Joe  each  one  of  us  had  to  stand  guard  about  once 
a  week  and  from  the  time  we  left  Fort  Boise  each  one  had  to 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  153. 

stand  guard  half  the  night  every  other  night  and  after  hav- 
ing- had  measles,  this  was  no  fun. 

On  October  15  we  arrived  at  The  Dalles.  On  account  of 
the  lateness  of  the  season,  we  selected  a  place  for  winter  quar- 
ters. This  was  on  a  creek  about  two  miles  from  the  Methodist 
Jlission. 

Here  in  November,  we  built  huts  for  the  family  and  large 
corrals  of  logs  in  which  to  keep  the  horses  for  their  safety  at 
night.  We  watched  them  during  the  day.  Our  cattle  were  at 
large.  We  looked  after  them  to  prevent  their  straying  too  far. 
We  drove  them  together  several  times  each  day.  Several  par- 
ties left  their  stock  in  our  care  during  the  winter. 

As  soon  as  the  family  was  in  its  winter  quarters,  father 
and  I  w^ent  doAvn  the  Columbia  River  and  up  the  Willamette 
River  for  a  winter's  supply  of  flour.  This  was  about  the  20th 
of  November.  At  Oregon  City  we  bought  a  skiff  and  about 
1.000  pounds  of  flour.  A  young  man  by  the  name  of  Scrog- 
gins  and  myself,  started  out  to  take  the  flour  to  the  family. 

Father  stayed  down  the  Willamette  in  Tulatin  plains  ail 
winter,  looking  for  a  place  in  which  to  locate.  When  we 
reached  The  DaUes,  James  and  his  wife  left  their  stock  with 
us.  their  oxen  had  given  out,  and  went  on  and  father  remained 
with  James  and  his  wife  until  Spring. 

Scroggins  and  I  started  with  plenty  of  provisions  for  our 
trip,  which  we  calculated  would  be  about  seven  days.  On  ac- 
count of  stormy  weather,  we  were  seventeen  days.  Below  Cape 
Horn  on  the  Columbia  River,  we  had  to  lay  by  in  one  place 
for  two  days.  Cape  Horn  is  a  rocky  spur  of  the  Cascade  range, 
two  or  three  hundred  feet  high  and  almost  perpendicular. 

This  was  the  hardest  seventeen  days'  work  I  ever  did.  It 
stormed  almost  all  the  time.  We  had  the  flour  in  sacks  of  100 
pounds  each  and  we  loaded  and  unloaded  these  sacks  some- 
times as  high  as  eight  or  ten  times  a  day.  The  w'ind  would  stop 
blowing  for  a  time  and  by  the  time  we  got  loaded  and  ready  to 
start  it  would  begin  again  and  we  would  be  obliged  to  unload, 
the  river  was  so  rough  we  did  not  dare  to  risk  becoming 
swamped  with  our  heavy  load.  The  wind  blew  either  up  stream 
or  down  stream.  The  family  needed  the  flour  badly,  and  we 
were  anxious  to  get  to  them  with  it.  Some  days  we  would  not 
go  over  a  mile  after  working  hard  all  day  and  then  the  wind 
would  apparently  abate,  when  we  could  not  avail  ourselves  of 


154  THURSTON   COUNTY 

the  calm.  Our  supply  of  provisions  were  soon  about  all  used 
up  except  the  flour.  Flour  and  water,  without  even  salt,  was 
not  very  good  to  keep  up  our  spirits,  as  well  as  strength.  We 
mixed  the  flour  and  water  together  in  the  top  of  a  sack  and 
made  the  dough  into  long  strings,  which  we  wrapped  about  a 
stick.  We  set  the  stick  by  the  fire  and  baked  the  dough,  which 
tasted  pretty  good  after  a  hard  day's  work.  We  varied  this 
with  noodle  soup  made  of  water  and  flour.  We  were  three  days 
making  the  five  miles  of  rapids  and  seven  miles  of  portage.  The 
last  day  on  the  rapids  our  boat  took  a  sheer  and  the  one  on 
shore  had  to  pull  so  hard  against  the  current  that  the  boat  filled 
with  water.  In  the  face  of  this  calamity  I  thought  the  family 
would  starve.  I  was  twenty  years  of  age  but  in  my  anxiety, 
I  cried.  This  was  the  first,  last  and  only  time  I  cried  while 
crossing  the  plains. 

We  finally  got  the  boat  to  a  safe  place  and  baled  it  out. 
We  Avere  sure  the  flour  was  ruined.  We  took  the  sacks  out 
and  let  the  water  drain  off,  reloaded  and  proceeded  on  our 
journey. 

That  night  we  built  a  fire  and  dried  the  sacks  and  found 
that  the  flour  was  not  much  hurt.  We  were  lucky  to  find  two 
M^hite  men  and  three  Indians  to  help  us  carry  our  boat  over 
the  portage.  Four  days  of  travel  up  the  river  brought  us  to 
our  winter  home.  We  found  all  well  and  anxious  for  our 
return. 

As  I  have  said,  father  remained  down  the  Willamette  the 
winter  of  1845,  with  Brother  James  and  wife,  looking  for  a 
place,  and  the  middle  of  January,  1846,  he  and  James  came 
back  to  The  Dalles  to  help  build  a  boat  to  move  us.  There 
were  plenty  of  boats  then  on  the  Willamette  for  emigrants 
who  wanted  to  pass  on  down  to  the  valley,  but  a  very  short 
time  after  we  arrived  at  The  Dalles  they  had  all  been  taken 
off  for  the  winter. 

James  was  a  boat  builder.  We  selected  a  place  close  to 
the  river  to  build  our  boat,  where  there  was  good  timber.  We 
chose  two  large  trees  for  the  purpose  of  making  gunwales,  the 
trees  beilig  about  three  feet  in  diameter.  Then  we  picked  out 
smaller  trees  for  making  the  plank.  We  hewed  out  the  timber 
the  proper  length  and  squared  it.  This  we  lined  on  both  sides 
the  thickness  we  wanted  to  make  our  planks.     We  chose  a 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  155 

place  on  a  side  hill  to  make  a  saw  pit.  It  was  so  arranged 
that  one  man  could  stand  underneath  the  log  and  one  man  on 
top  of  it.  Then  the  squared  logs  were  put  in  place  and  we 
ripped  out  enough  plank  for  a  bottom  and  a  false  bottom  and 
for  the  sides  of  the  boat.  We  used  the  old  whip  saw  which  is 
now  on  exhibition  in  the  Oregon  Historical  rooms  at  Portland. 

This  old  whip  saw  told  its  own  story,  when  in  1894,  a  gen- 
tleman asked  it  to  tell  of  its  adventures : 

''I  started  for  Puget  Sound  from  Missouri  in  1845  and. 
after  passing  through  the  trials  and  incidents  of  an  overland 
journey  of  six  months,  reached  The  Dalles  Oregon,  where, 
with  the  assistance  of  four  men,  I  sawed  timber  enough  to  con- 
struct a  boat  16  feet  long  and  fifty  feet  wide.  On  February 
1,  1846,  the  boat  was  loaded  with  myself  among  the  passengers 
and  we  moved  down  the  Columbia  to  the  Cascades.  At  the 
Cascades  I  took  passage  in  a  wagon  around  a  five  mile  port- 
aQre.  Our  boat  was  the  first  boat  ever  sent  over  the  Cascade 
Falls.  The  craft  was  secured  and  proceeded  to  the  mouth  of 
Sandy  River.  From  that  point  my  travels  varied,  sometimes 
by  land  and  sometimes  by  water,  up  one  stream  and  down 
another.  Finally,  in  the  Spring  of  1848,  I  reached  Puget 
Sound,  after  a  tedious  journey  behind  an  ox  team.  In  the 
three  years  of  my  travels  my  master  always  found  me  of  ser- 
vice. But  during  forty-seven  years,  after  1  reached  what  was 
to  be  my  home,  I  remained  undisturbed  and  unthought  of  in 
my  master's  tool  house  on  Chambers  Prairie.  On  April  26, 
1894,  the  flames  destroyed  my  home  and  I  was  ruined  and  de- 
faced almost  beyond  recognition." 

We  had  no  nails  and  the  boat  was  put  together  entirely 
with  wooden  pins.  It  resembled  a  scow  of  today.  Its  capacity 
was  large  enough  to  carry  fifteen  head  of  cattle  at  a  time  in 
crossing  a  river  and  to  store  all  of  our  wagons  when  they  were 
taken  apart,  and  all  of  our  plunder  that  we  had  brought  with 
us  across  the  plains,  as  well  as  those  members  of  the  family 
who  were  not  on  shore  driving  the  cattle. 

When  we  got  the  boat  ready  and  launched  we  loaded 
our  effects,  wagons  and  plunder  and  all  the  ox  yokes  and 
proceeded  on  down  the  Columbia  River.  When  we  collected 
the  stock  to  make  the  start  our  cattle  were  in  good  condition. 
The  snow  rarely  stayed  on  the  ground  on  the  southern  slopes 
of  the  hills  and  the  cattle  had  opportunity  to  do  well.     But 


156  THURSTON   COUNTY 

not  so  with  the  horses.  The  Indians  had  managed  to  steal 
most  of  them  during  foggy  weather  when  it  was  pretty  hard 
work  to  guide  them.  We  did  not  have  more  than  three  out 
of  a  lot  of  horses  whose  manes  and  tails  had  not  been  cut 
off.  The  mutilated  animals  looked  horrible  to  us.  There 
was  always  some  "good  Indian"  to  help  me  hunt  the  stolen 
horses.  It  appeared  the  Indians  did  not  want  the  horses  except 
to  have  a  big  ride  on  them  and  get  their  manes  and  tails. 
They  made  ropes  out  of  the  hair. 

Our  boat  had  long  oars  and  when  we  started  two  mer 
attended  to  these.  Brother  James  usually  steered  the  boat 
and  Father  and  David  were  ashore  most  of  the  time.  We  let 
the  boat  run  with  the  current  as  great  a  distance  each  day 
as  we  could  drive  the  cattle.  Then  we  tied  up  and  resumed 
our  course  next  morning.  We  travelled  on  the  north  side 
down  the  river  bottom  until  we  came  to  Shell  Rock,  a  place 
where  the  hills  came  right  up  to  the  river's  edge.  We  could 
not  drive  over  this  rock,  neither  could  we  swim  our  cattle 
around  it.  Consequently  we  were  obliged  to  ferry  all  our 
effects,  and  the  cattle,  to  the  north  side,  and  travelled  down 
that  side  until  we  came  to  the  Cascade  Falls.  At  this  point 
we  unloaded  our  wagons,  put  them  together  and  loaded  our 
plunder  into  them,  hitched  on  the  teams  and  started  out  to 
make  our  way  to  the  lower  end  of  the  Falls. 

Everything  had  been  removed  from  the  boat  and  the  sides 
boarded  up.  Brother  James  and  two  men  who  were  willing 
to  take  the  risk,  went  aboard.  James  acted  as  captain  and 
the  other  men  stood  at  the  oars.  We  had  several  small  boats 
so  we  took  her  out  in  the  river  and  gave  her  a  start,  heading 
her  straight  for  the  falls.  She  went  over,  shipping  only  a 
nominal  number  of  gallons  of  water.  It  was  in  February  that 
we  made  this  run  with  the  first  flat  bottomed  boat  ever  to 
pass  over  these  five  miles  of  rocks  and  rapids. 

Having  gotten  safely  over  they  returned,  after  tying  up. 
to  help  us  with  the  teams  and  stock.  We  had  to  blaze  a  trail 
to  go  through  and  prospect  a  road.  We  were  obliged  to  go 
back  about  a  mile  from  the  river  and  pass  through  an  Indian 
graveyard.  In  this  graveyard  the  dead  were  all  buried  in 
houses,  and  we  had  to  drive  carefully  between  them.  It  was 
an  ancient  burying  place,  for  the  houses  were  all  decaying. 
I  think  it  could  not  have  been  used  for  many,  many  years. 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  157 

After  travelling  about  six  miles  we  came  again  to  the  river 
just  below  the  lower  falls.  We  re-loaded  the  boat  and  pro- 
ceeded as  before.  The  drivers  took  the  cattle  along  by  the 
river  until  we  reached  Cape  Horn.  Here  we  were  obliged 
again  to  leave  the  river  and  travel  out  into  the  country  and 
around  this  high  promontory.  AVe  had  to  drive  very  slowly 
and  it  was  hard  work.  On  this  trip  we  took  a  little  flor.r. 
salt  and  enough  bread  to  do  us  the  first  day  out.  After 
that  we  tied  up  the  calves  so  that  we  could  get  milk  enough 
to  make  noodle  soup  with  milk,  flour  and  salt.  It  was  nearly 
three  days  before  w^e  reached  the  river  again.  At  the  mouth 
of  Sandy  River  we  found  the  scow  and  the  folks  waiting  for 
us.  Here  we  unloaded  again  and  ferried  our  stock  across 
to  the  southern  side  of  the  Columbia,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Sandy.  From  this  point  we  drove  the  cattle  across  the  country 
by  Oregon  City  to  Milk  Creek,  near  Molalla,  where  father 
had  .selected  a  place  for  us. 

After  ferrying  the  stock  across  at  the  mouth  of  the  Sandy, 
we  re-loaded  the  boat  Avith  our  effects  and  ran  down  the 
Columbia  to  the  Willamette  and  up  the  latter  river  to  Oregon 
City.  Here  we  sold  the  boat  for  $50.  We  put  our  plunder  in 
the  wagons  and  moved  out  to  the  place  selected  for  our  future 
homes,  and  set  to  work  to  build  houses  in  which  to  live. 

The  citizens  of  Oregon  were  of  the  opinion  that  Uncle 
Sam  was  slow  in  extending  protection  to  his  people  on  the 
Pacific  Slope,  and  they  formed  a  provisional  government  and 
elected  Abernathy  governor.  The  representatives  passed  laAvs 
saying  that  a  married  man  and  his  wife  could  take  up  640 
acres — a  mile  square — of  land ;  a  young  or  single  man,  half 
that  amount,  and  that  this  could  be  selected  any  place,  so 
that  it  did  not  interfere  with  other  claims.  Wheat  was  made 
legal  tender  for  small  debts  at  one  dollar  a  bushel. 

Oregon  City,  being  located  at  the  Falls  on  the  Willamette 
River,  the  Hudson  Hay  Company  had  a  flour  mill  and  a  store 
there.  Up  the  Willamette,  the  old  servants  of  the  company 
had  settled,  and  taken  up  a  great  many  of  the  choice  parts 
for  fifty  or  sixty  miles.  One  prairie,  called  "French  Prairie," 
was  settled  by  Canadian  French,  and  most  of  the  settlers  had 
native  wives. 

The  first  settlers  here  cut  hazel  brush  and  made  withes 


158  THURSTON  COUNTY 

v.-ith  which  to  bind  their  wheat.  At  this  time  the  sickle  and 
the  reap  hook  were  used.  Then  the  cradle  came  into  use  and 
they  learned  to  make  bands  of  the  wheat,  oats,  or  other  grain 
that  was  out. 

After  putting  in  one  Spring  crop  and  garden  in  the 
IMolalla.  Ave  built  a  barn.  I  then  went  to  Tualatin  Plains,  west 
of  Oregon  City,  and  stopped  with  Brother  James  and  family. 
He  had  married  a  Mrs.  Seoggins,  w^ho  had  a  family  of  five 
children,  three  sons  and  two  daughters.  I,  together  with  these 
children,  went  to  school  for  one  term.  The  oldest  son  was 
one  of  my  best  friends,  and  it  was  he  who  helped  me  to  take 
the  flour  up  the  Columbia  to  mj'  folks.  Tualatin  Plains, 
twenty  miles  from  Oregon  City,  was  settled  principally  by 
Hudson  Bay  men,  English  and  Scotch.  This  was  a  fine  section 
of  the  country.  Plenty  of  wheat  w^as  grown  here,  and  new- 
comers could  get  plenty  of  work  by  taking  pay  in  wheat,  at 
one  dollar  a  tush  el.  The  wheat  could  be  taken  to  Oregon 
City  and  sold  to  the  company,  and  taken  out  in  trade  at  the 
store,  and  a  receipt  would  be  given  for  the  remainder.  This 
receipt  could  be  used  in  trading  with  other  parties  for  any- 
thing wanted,  and  they,  in  turn,  could  go  to  the  store  and 
get  goods  and  groceries  with  it.  There  was  very  little  money 
in  the  country,  so  people  were  obliged  to  use  wheat  and  these 
receipts  as  a  means  of  conducting  business  transactions.  The 
emigrants  to  this  country  had  spent  mostly  all  their  money 
for  outfits  and  a  great  many,  even  then,  were  very  poorly 
provided  for  provisions  for  the  trip. 

After  school  closed  I  stayed  with  my  brother.  James,  and 
helped  in  the  harvest.  The  barns  were  built  of  logs,  two  houses 
and  a  space  of  thirty  feet  between  them,  the  roof  including 
the  three.  The  center  was  used  for  a  threshing  floor,  and 
ten  or  twelve  horses  were  used  to  tramp  out  the  wheat.  The 
farmers  would  furnish  us  horses  and  board  and  give  us  one 
bushel  in  ten  to  thresh  out  and  fan  the  wheat,  and.  sometimes, 
they  allowed  us  a  team  to  take  the  wheat  to  market.  While 
I  was  helping  my  brother  that  harvest,  I  did  the  threshing 
and  my  brother  and  Young  Seoggins  hauled  in  the  sheaves. 
We  threshed  eighty  or  ninety  bushels  a  day. 

One  of  the  oldest  settlers  came  to  my  brother  and  wanted 
help.  James  told  him  I  could  go  and  wanted  to  know  how 
much  he  would  pay  me  per  day.    The  old  settler  said  he  would 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  159 

give  me  three  pecks  of  wheat  a  day.  James  told  him  I  might 
remain  at  home  and  play,  before  I  should  work  at  that  price. 
1  told  my  brother  to  make  a  contract  with  him  to  cut  and 
shock  his  wheat,  and  Scoggins  and  I  would  do  the  work  as 
soon  as  we  finished  James'  crop.  He  made  the  contract  at 
three  bushels  an  acre  and  board. 

We  went,  and  put  in  thirty  acres  for  him.  We  put  up  three 
acres  a  day,  and  the  old  gentleman  was  highly  pleased  with 
our  work.  His  wheat  was  getting  very  ripe  and  shattering 
out  so  that  he  proposed  for  us  to  cut  and  bind  in  the  fore- 
noon and  haul  in  the  afternoon,  and  he  would  pay  just  the 
same  per  day  for  the  hauling.     That  was  nine  bushels  a  da3^ 

It  was  hard  for  him  to  keep  help.  One  harvest  was  all 
that  help  would  stay  with  him.  Some  of  his  help  told  that  he 
recommended  to  them  to  eat  the  peelings  off  of  baked  potatoes. 
He  said  it  was  healthy  and  helped  to  fill  up.  I  think  he  was 
correct  about  its  being  good  for  the  health,  if  he  followed  his 
own  advise,  for  he  lived  to  be  104  years  old. 

The  Winter  of  1846  we  spent  in  looking  for  a  ncAv  location, 
thinking  to  better  ourselves.  We  went  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  River  and  looked  over  Clatsop  Plains,  then  south 
to  the  Umpqua  country,  but  Ave  did  not  find  anything  to 
suit  us. 

Father  said  he  had  started  for  salt  water,  and  so  in  the 
Spring  of  1847,  after  w^e  had  put  in  the  crops,  we  came  ovei 
to  Puget  Sound  to  look  at  that  portion  of  the  country.  We 
spent  two  months  looking  around.  At  Newmarket,  the  present 
site  of  Tumwater.  at  the  falls  of  the  Des  Chutes  River,  we 
found  INI.  T.  Simmons  and  family,  and  five  or  six  other  families 
and  nine  or  ten  young  men.  They  had  settled  here  in  June, 
1845.  They  were  putting  up  a  sawmill.  They  already  had  a 
fh)ur  mill,  a  very  small  concern.  The  burrs  were  only  eighteen 
inches  in  diameter  and  no  bolting  cloth  was  in  use.  Some  of 
the  families  had  sieves  that  were  used  to  take  out  the  coarse 
bran. 

At  the  present  site  of  Olympia  there  was  was  oidy  one 
man,  by  the  name  of  Smith.  His  log  cabin  stood  on  the  ground 
where  the  Huggins  hotel  is  noAV.  We  finally  staked  out 
claims  on  what  is  now  known  as  "Chambers  Prairie."  Tlu'U 
Ave  returned  to  our  homes  in  Oregon  to  make  preparations  to 
move  to  the  Puget  Sound  region  in  the  Fall. 


160  THURSTON   COUNTY 

Early  in  the  Fall  of  1847,  we  hired  two  boats  of  Dr. 
MeLoiighlin,  and  four  Kanaka  boat  men.  We  loaded  our 
effects,  wagons,  ox  yokes  and  bedding,  on  the  boats  at  Oregon 
City.  We  went  down  the  Willamette  to  the  Columbia  River, 
down  the  Columbia  to  the  mouth  of  the  Cowlitz  and  up  the 
Cowlitz  to  Cowlitz  Landing — thirty  miles. 

It  was  fine  boating  until  we  came  to  the  rapids  on  the 
Cowlitz  Eiver.  That  was  hard  work  and  slow  travelling.  We 
had  to  use  the  tow  line  a  great  deal  and  go  from  one  side  of 
the  river  to  the  other  to  take  advantage  of  the  eddies  and 
shallow  waters,  so  that  we  could  use  the  long  poles  and  push 
the  boats  up  the  stream.  Our  boats  were  heavily  laden  and 
for  about  fifteen  miles  we  used  the  poles  and  tow  line,  the 
water  being  too  swift  to  use  the  oars. 

There  w^as  a  great  quantity  of  salmon  in  the  river.  We 
had  all  we  wanted,  and  cooked  it  Indian  fashion.  This  was  to 
dress  the  fish,  run  a  stick  through  it  and  place  the  stick  in  the 
ground  close  to  the  fire,  and  as  the  fish  cooked,  turn  it  so 
that  it  would  bake  evenly.  We  always  left  the  scales  on  till  it 
M^as  cooked.  After  working  hard  all  day,  it  was  fine — we 
thought,  delicious. 

We  arrived  at  Cowlitz  Landing  after  twenty  days  of 
travel,  the  only  accident  on  the  trip  being  the  loss  of  a  rifle, 
a  considerable  loss  in  those  daj^s,  too.  In  making  the  trip  to 
Cowlitz  Landing,  we  started  the  hands  with  the  stock,  horses 
and  cattle,  to  cross  the  Columbia.  All  were  ferried  over  at 
Fort  Vancouver;  then  they  were  driven  down  the  river  to 
Lewis  River,  where  they  were  ferried  over  this  stream,  follow- 
ing down  the  Columbia  to  the  mouth  of  the  CoMditz.  They 
were  then  driven  up  the  Cowlitz  and  swam  across  the  south 
fork.  When  they  reached  the  Cowlitz  Landing,  they  swam 
the  stock  to  the  north  side  of  the  river  and  waited  for  the 
boats.  This  landing  is  at  the  lower  end  of  Cowlitz  Prairie, 
which  prairie  was  settled  by  the  Canadian  French  and  is  a 
fine  farming  country.  The  Hudson  Bay  Company  and  the 
Catholic  Mission  each  had  fine  farms  there.  We  rented  twenty 
acres  of  land  from  the  Catholic  Mission  and  a  like  number 
of  acres  from  John  R.  Jackson,  and  put  in  a  crop  of  winter 
wheat. 

When  the  crop  was  in,  we  left  the  stock  needed  to  haul 
our  wagons  to  the  prairie  (Chambers),  which  we  had  selected 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  161 

for  our  future  home,  and  started  to  drive  the  remainder  of 
the  stock  through.  We  drove  them  over  Mud  Mountain,  or 
]\Iud  Hill — all  the  first  settlers  travelled  this  way,  and  we 
crossed  the  Des  Chutes  about  two  miles  above  Tumwater. 
There  was  an  Indian  trail  from  Bush  Prairie  to  Chambers 
Prairie. 

Then  we  went  back  to  Saunder's  Bottom  and  com- 
pleted the  wagon  road  around  Mud  Hill.  This  hill  is  east  of 
Chehalis.  There  was  one  family  living  there  at  that  time.  We 
prospected  and  blazed  out  a  road.  We  found  trees' on  the  banks 
of  a  creek  that  suited  us  for  making  a  bridge.  We  built  the 
bridge  and  cut  out  the  wagon  road  through  Saunder's  Bottom — 
a  distance  of  three  miles.  The  creek's  source  was  from  ilud 
Mountain  and  the  banks  were  steep  and  muddy  and  could  not 
be  crossed  without  a  bridge.  We  then  came  to  New  JMarket, 
one  of  the  first  settlements  at  Tumwater.  The  men  of  this 
settlement  turned  out  and  all  helped  to  cut  a  wagon  road  to 
Chambers'  Prairie,  a  distance  of  three  and  a  half  miles.  The 
old  settlers  here  were  glad  to  see  new  comers  and  they  were 
ready  and  willing  to  help  us.  What  they  had  they  were  will- 
ing to  share  with  us.  They  were  much  pleased  when  they 
learned  that  we  had  sieve  wire,  for  they  had  no  bolting  cloth 
for  their  small  grist  mill.  They  thought  it  a  fine  thing  to  have 
sieve  wire  so  they  could  take  the  bran  out  of  their  flour.  On 
the  prairie  we  built  a  log  house  of  two  rooms,  the  smaller 
we  used  for  a  kitchen  and  the  larger  was  curtained  off  into 
bed  rooms.  We  then  went  for  the  family  and  brought  them 
over.     We  stayed  a  few  days,  visiting  Mr.  Simmons'  family. 

We  crossed  our  wagons  on  boats,  when  the  tide  was  in, 
below  the  lower  falls  of  the  Des  Chutes.  When  the  tide  was 
out  we  drove  our  work  cattle  across  Budd's  Inlet  and  then 
drove  out  five  miles  to  our  future  home.  The  fifteenth  of  De- 
cember, 1847,  we  took  our  first  dinner  at  our  home  on  Cham- 
bers' Prairie. 

Here  our  stock  had  plenty  of  grass  and  wintered  well, 
so  they  were  fat  in  February.  We  butchered  a  fine  beef  and 
had  plent}^  of  tallow  to  make  candles.  Mother  had  brought 
enough  candle  wicking  to  do  several  years.  The  candles  were 
a  great  improvement  on  the  old  iron  lamp  in  which  Ave  had 
to  burn  hog's  lard.    This  lamj)  was  made  with  a  short  spout  for 


162  THURSTON  COUNTY 

the  wick  to  lie  iu  and  one  end  of  the  wick  came  out  of  this 
spout  to  burn.  The  handle  at  the  other  end  of  the  lamp  was 
so  arranged  that  it  came  up  over  the  center  of  the  lamp,  so 
as  to  hold  the  lamp  level.  A  cotton  cloth,  twisted,  served  as  a 
wick.  Father  put  up  a  milk  house,  and,  in  March,  commenced 
to  make  butter,  and  in  April,  to  make  cheese. 

Brother  Thomas  and  I  took  up  claims  adjoining,  and  we 
milked  the  cows,  morning  and  evening,  for  our  board.  We 
built  a  log  house  of  one  room  on  our  claim.  We  made  it  a 
five-cornered  house,  the  fifth  corner  being  for  the  fireplace.  In 
]\Iay  we  dug  two  troughs  and  started  a  tan  yard,  on  a  small 
scale.  We  used  the  troughs  for  vats,  and  alder  and  hemlock 
bark,  for  tanning  purposes.  We  dried  the  bark  and  pounded 
it  fine.  We  burned  oyster  and  clam  shell  and  used  the  lime 
to  take  the  hair  off  the  skins.  We  made  sole  leather  out  of 
beef  hides,  and  for  the  upper  leather  we  used  deer  and  cougar 
hides.  By  the  first  of  November  \xe  had  our  leather  ready  to 
make  shoes.  We  brought  a  kit  of  shoemakers'  tools  with  us 
and  father  and  I  made  the  shoes.  We  brought  with  us  a  num- 
ber of  lasts  of  different  sizes.  For  sewing  we  put  a  number  of 
strands  of  shoe  thread  together — the  length  we  wanted — and 
we  twisted  and  waxed  this  string,  tapered  the  ends  and  put 
a  hog  bristle  on  each  end  for  needles.  It  was  a  nice  piece  of 
work  to  put  the  bristles  on  so  they  would  stay.  This  we  could 
do  to  perfection.  If  they  came  off  they  could  not  be  put  on 
again. 

We  made  our  shoe  pegs  of  maple  and  dog  Avood,  well 
seasoned,  sawed  the  length  and  size  we  wanted  the  pegs  to 
be.  We  split  off'  slabs  the  thickness  to  make  square  pegs,  and 
shaved  the  slabs  to  make  the  pegs  sharp  at  one  end.  We  used 
a  stick  with  a  notch  against  which  we  held  the  slabs  and 
sharpened  first  one  side  and  then  the  other.  A  strip  of  leather 
with  a  slit  in  it  was  fastened  to  the  shoe  board.  We  took  two 
or  three  of  the  sharpened  slabs  and  held  them  with  the  left 
hand  against  the  leather  which  served  as  a  lever  for  the  knife, 
and,  with  the  point  of  the  knife,  held  to  place  by  running  it  in 
the  slit  in  the  leather,  we  split  off  the  pegs. 

The  crop  we  put  in  on  Cowlitz  Prairie  turned  out  Avell,  and 
we  hauled  it  over  early  in  the  Fall,  or  enough  of  it  to  plant  and 
to  keep  us  until  we  grew  our  first  crop  on  Chambers'  Prairie. 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  163 

The  Aviuters  of  18-15-6  and  1846-7  Avere  very  mild  and  pleasant. 
We  made  rails  to  fence  in  land  to  protect  our  crops.  We 
raised  plenty  of  wheat,  potatoes,  peas  and  other  vegetables. 
We  had  wheat  coffee,  and  pea  coffee,  and  we  could  always 
change  from  one  to  the  other.  Boiled  wheat  and  milk  made  an 
extra  dish  for  supper. 

Father  and  mother  were  highly  pleased  with  this  country 
and  they  thought  there  was  no  place  like  it ;  fat  beef  off  the 
range  in  February,  and  plenty  of  oysters  and  clams  for  the 
digging.  One  beef  would  give  us  sixty  pounds  of  tallow,  and 
in  those  days  tallow  was  an  important  item. 

That  same  spring  of  1848,  we  built  the  log  barn  which 
stood  over  half  a  century  and  finally  had  to  be  burned  on  ac- 
count of  its  being  unsafe  for  the  stock.  It  was  built  similar 
to  those  already  described,  except  that  this  barn  had  five 
apartments,  two  for  hay  and  grain,  one  for  stalls,  one  for 
wagons,  and  one  for  threshing.  It  was  a  long,  narrow  barn, 
and  all  under  one  roof.  The  clapboards  were  put  on  with 
Avrought  nails  from  England,  the  sheeting  was  of  logs,  put  on 
the  right  distance  apart  to  use  four-foot  boards. 

Thomas  and  I  had  been  looking  forward  and  calculating 
to  return  to  Missouri  in  two  years  to  see  our  girls  that  we  had 
left  behind  us.  In  1848  mother  received  a  letter  from  our  old 
home,  telling  about  what  had  taken  place  since  we  left  and 
among  the  news  was  the  marriage  of  a  certain  young  lady, 
and  this  had  the  effect  of  making  me  contented  to  remain  on 
Puget  Sound. 

This  was  a  sensible  decision,  for,  during  the  winter  of 
1847,  Indians  broke  out  and  massacred  Dr.  and  ]Mrs.  Whitman 
and  many  others  at  the  Mission,  near  Walla  Walla.  The  people 
of  Oregon  raised  a  company  of  Volunteers  to  subdue  the  Cayuse 
tribe,  the  only  hostiles.  They  succeeded  in  bringing  the  leaders 
to  justice.  We,  on  Puget  Sound,  did  not  know  about  the 
trouble  until  it  was  all  settled.  The  Indians  here  were  friendly 
and  they  were  glad  to  have  the  Boston.s — as  they  called  the 
Americans — come.  About  this  time  gold  was  discovered  in 
California,  and  Thomas  and  I  got  the  fever  to  go,  as  Brother 
James  was  there. 


164  THURSTON  COUNTY 

Mrs.  Chambers'  Story  As  Told  By  Her 
Daughter  Nora 

I  left  my  childhood  home  in  company  with  my  three 
brothers,  my  sister-in-law,  two  nephews,  and  a  niece,  on  April 
1st,  1851,  to  cross  the  continent  with  ox  teams. 

]\Iy  only  sister  took  the  road  leading  to  Louisville  the 
same  morning,  having  been  married  to  Presly  I\I.  Hoskins  one 
week  before.  I  can  see  the  wagon  yet  that  carried  her  goods, 
as  it  slowly  turned  down  a  hill  that  we  used  to  travel  so  much 
to  school  and  church  together.  Oh,  how  sorrowful  a  daj^  that 
was !  We  crossed  the  Wabash  Kiver  at  Terre  Haute,  about 
25  miles  from  our  home  in  Sullivan  County,  Indiana,  travelling 
across  Illinois  to  Missouri,  landing  at  St.  Joe  on  the  JMissouri 
River  on  the  9th  day  of  ]May.  Here  we  stayed  a  few  days  to 
rest  our  jaded  teams.  The  roads  were  frightful,  the  poor  oxen 
would  almost  mire  down  in  many  j)laces. 

When  w^e  crossed  the  river  into  the  Indian  Territory,  I 
felt  as  if  we  had  left  all  civilization  behind  us.  IMy  sister- 
in-law  was  sick,  my  niece  much  younger  than  I,  consequently 
all  the  cooking  and  planning  fell  on  my  shoulders.  None  but 
those  who  have  cooked  for  a  family  of  eight,  crossing  the  plains, 
can  have  any  idea  of  the  amount  of  food  consumed. 

There  isn't  much  fun  cooking  with  sage  brush  almost  as 
dry  as  straw.  Sometimes  the  cakes — flapjacks — were  black 
with  the  ashes  blown  over  them.  To  throw  them  away  and 
bake  others  was  out  of  the  question,  for  the  next  lot  would 
have  been  the  same,  besides  we  had  to  be  very  saving  of  pro- 
visions. When  we  were  all  well  we  had  jolly  times,  but  my 
sister-in-law  was  sick  almost  all  the  time,  which  was  a  great 
source  of  anxiety  to  us.  At  times  we  almost  despaired  of  her 
life. 

I  used  to  think,  when  travelling  over  those  rocky  roads, 
often  seeing  the  skulls  and  bones  of  fellowmen  bleaching  in 
the  hot  sun,  so  far  from  home  and  loved  ones,  that  if  we  were 
spared  to  reach  a  land  of  civilization,  I  could  see  my  dearest 
loved  ones  laid  away  with  a  tear.  Oh.  the  thought  of  leaving 
a  loved  one  so  far  away  was  perfectly  agonizing. 

Often  we  would  see  parts  of  quilts  that  had  been  wrapped 
around  the  form  of  some  dear  one  laid  away,  but  both  body  and 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  165 

quilts  had  been  dug  out  by  the  wild  animals  and  the  bones 
laid  bare  before  the  gaze  of  the  pitiless  sun.  We  saw  some 
graves  that  had  been  made  secure  by  heavy  stones  that  had 
been  placed  upon  them  so  that  the  wild  beasts  could  not  roll 
them  off.  We  had  one  funeral  in  our  train,  a  little  boy.  and 
how  sad  it  was  to  drive  aAvay  and  leave  the  new-made  grave ! 

One  of  our  sorrows  was  the  loss  of  our  faithful  dog.  which 
had  accompanied  us  from  home.  The  poor  beast  perished  when 
we  were  crossing  the  desert.  My  sister-in-law  Avas  very  ill — 
we  did  not  know  that  she  would  live  through  the  day.  We  had 
hauled  water  enough  to  last  for  two  days,  but  had  to  use  it 
very  sparingly.  I  remembered,  after  we  missed  the  dog,  of 
seeing  him  coming  along  behind  the  wagon  with  his  tongue 
hanging  out  of  his  mouth.  Poor  fellow,  if  he  had  been  taken 
in  and  given  a  little  water  he  would  have  been  saved.  Except 
for  the  sickness  in  our  family,  we  had  an  excellent  trip,  com- 
pared with  some.  We  had  no  troul)le  with  Indians — only  some 
scares.  One  night  the  guards  came  in  and  reported  the  Indians 
had  frightened  all  the  stock  and  they  had  run  off.  Of  course, 
Ave  prepared  to  defend  ourselves  as  best  we  could.  The  wagons 
were  put  around  to  form  a  circle,  the  tongue  of  one  wagon 
resting  on  the  back  of  another.  Then  the  women  and  children 
were  put  into  as  fcAV  wagons  as  possible  and  one  man  sat  in 
front  of  each  wagon  with  his  gun  ready  to  shoot  if  an  Indian 
put  in  an  appearance.  We  were  greatly  rejoiced  when  morn- 
ing came  and  no  sight  of  an  Indian  anywhere. 

Sometimes  we  would  lay  by  all  day  to  give  the  oxen  a  little 
rest  when  the  weather  was  so  warm.  Then  we  would  start  out 
just  at  night-fall  and  travel  all  night.  In  this  way  I  missed 
tlie  sight  of  Court  House  Rock,  although  we  had  seen  it  in  the 
distance  for  several  days,  rearing  up  like  an  immense  old 
building.  Chimney  Rock,  too,  was  quite  a  curiosity.  We 
could  see  it  for  days  and  it  looked  so  close  at  hand  that  three 
or  four  days  before  Ave  reached  it  some  of  the  company  started 
to  go  to  it  but  came  into  camp  in  the  evening,  tired  out  Avith 
Avallving  a  Avhole  afternoon  carrying  their  guns.  The  shape  of 
the  rock  was  very  much  like  a  chimney  standing  alone,  AA-ay 
out  on  the  plains  with  no  other  rock  near  it. 

We  passed  some  very  beautiful  rocks  A'ery  mucli  like  the 
ones  in  YelloAvstone  Park.     On  some  of  the  smooth  ones  there 


166  THURSTON  COUNTY 

were  hundreds  of  names,  each  one  higher  than  the  last,  the 
writers  having  climbed  np  to  see  who  could  write  their  name 
the  highest. 

The  Devil's  Gate  is  a  Cjueer  freak  of  nature  and  quite  a 
curiosity.  There  is  just  room  for  a  wagon  road  between  the 
high  rocks  on  either  side. 

We  passed  what  was  then  called  Steamboat  Springs.  The 
water  was  thrown  up  into  the  air  several  feet  high.  Then 
there  were  the  hot  springs,  some  beautiful  waterfalls  and 
many,  many  other  strange  and  beautiful  things  that  I  do  not 
recall  at  this  late  day. 

The  most  unpleasant  part  of  the  journey  was  through  the 
alkali  district.  It  was  white  as  far  as  you  could  see.  In  some 
places  a  thick  crust  or  scum  was  on  the  top  of  the  earth.  Our 
hands  and  lips  were  sore  from  the  alkali  in  the  air.  We  would 
be  so  covered  with  dust  as  we  travelled  along  that  at  night-fall 
we  could  not  tell  our  nearest  neighbor,  as  all  looked  alike. 

Cows,  as  a  general  rule,  stood  the  trip  much  better  than 
oxen.  We  brought  one  yoke  of  young  cow^s  that  we  milked  at 
the  home  place,  and  more  faithful  creatures  I  never  saw.  They 
worked  every  day  until  August.  Coming  through  the  Blue 
Mountains,  one  of  the  poor  creatures  gave  out,  laid  down  and 
refused  to  get  up,  so  we  had  to  leave  her  and  travel  on.  Our 
hearts  were  sad  when  we  took  a  last  look  at  one  so  faithful. 
We  learned  afterwards  that  a  party  coming  along  after  us 
found  her  quite  refreshened  after  her  rest  and  brought  her 
on  through  with  them,  which  we  were  very  glad  to  know. 
These  two  cows  gave  us  plenty  of  milk  until  we  reached  the 
alkali  country,  when  the  feed  was  so  poor  that  they  had  no 
milk  for  us. 

Besides  losing  our  cow  in  the  Blue  JNIountains,  we  had 
another  remarkable  event — the  birth  of  a  son  to  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Ross.  (They  and  their  son  now  reside  in  the  Puyallup  valley.) 
We  laid  by  for  half  a  day  and  then  travelled  on  as  if  nothing 
had  happened.    Mrs.  Ross  and  the  child  got  along  nicely. 

The  next  event  of  importance  was  the  crossing  of  the 
Rock}'  Mountains.  It  was  a  tiresome,  tedious  journey,  and  our 
cattle,  after  travelling  so  far,  were  very  much  fatigued.  For 
days  it  was  up,  up  all  the  time  and  the  road  was  often  very 
winding.     The  five  girls  that  were  in  our  train  would  some- 


PIONEER   REMINISCENCES  167 

times  take  what  we  called  a  "cutoff"  and  come  out  on  the  road 
a  long  distance  ahead  of  the  wagon.  These  five  girls  were 
Elizabeth  White,  now  Mrs.  D.  R.  Bigelow  of  Olympia;  Jerusha 
White,  now  Mrs.  A.  W.  Stewart  of  Puyallnp ;  Millie  Stewart, 
now  ]\Irs.  Dr.  Spinning  of  Piiyalhip ;  Margaret  White,  now  ^Irs. 
Andrew  Chambers  of  Olympia.  and  INIrs.  Durgan  of  Olympia, 
whose  maiden  name  I  have  forgotten. 

One  day,  as  we  could  see  the  road  quite  a  distance  off, 
we  set  out  on  one  of  our  trips,  which  proved  to  be  much  longer 
than  we  had  any  idea  of.  We  were  climbing  hills,  tramping 
over  rocks,  through  deep  ravines  and  scattering  timber,  all  the 
nflernoon. 

About  as  blue  a  time  as  we  had  was  when  our  cattle  were 
poisoned — every  one  lying  down  and  groaning  like  sick  people. 
Luckily  for  us,  my  brother  had  taken  along  a  much  greater 
amount  of  bacon  than  was  needed,  so  Ave  had  enough  fat  meat 
to  let  the  entire  company  have  some.  The  men  sat  up  all  night 
and  cut  the  meat  into  such  sized  pieces  as  they  could  put  down 
the  throats  of  the  animals.  Consequently,  our  teams  were  saved 
and  we  were  able  to  resume  our  journey  the  next  afternoon. 

The  trials  and  troubles  of  such  a  journey  can  never  be 
realized.  I  think  if  the  people  had  realized  the  dangers  and 
I)rivations  attendant  upon  such  a  trip  they  would  never  have 
undertaken  it. 

I  shall  never  forget  the  first  herd  of  buffalo  I  saw.  Such 
a  number  of  them — perhaps  a  hundred.  We  often  saw  smaller 
herds  travelling  towards  water.  The  first  meat  was  a  great 
treat,  we  had  been  so  many  months  without  fresh  meat.  The 
boys  in  our  company  killed  three  in  one  daj^  and  we  laid  by  a 
day  and  a  half  and  dried  some.  We  made  a  scaffold  of  sticks 
and  hung  the  strips  of  meat  on  the  sticks,  then  built  a  fire 
under  the  meat. 

After  this,  when  we  wished  to  have  a  change  from  the 
dried  meat,  we  would  put  grease  in  the  pan  and  fry  the  meat 
slightly.  I  can  tell  you  it  tasted  good  after  having  lived  for 
months  on  salted  meat. 

I  shall  never  forget  how  good  the  first  new  potatoes  tasted. 
AYe  got  them  in  Powder  River  Valley. 

One  sees  the  most  beautiful  Avild  flowers  in  crossing  the 
plains — flowers  of  every   hue   and   shade   and   acres  of  them. 


168  THURSTON   COUNTY 

How  I  regret  not  having  pressed  and  keeping  some  of  the 
beauties,  bnt  that  is  a  little  thing  to  regret  doing,  compared 
with  the  many  things  we  look  back  and  see  as  we  journey  on 
through  life.  So  much  occurs  to  us  that  we  wish  we  had 
done. 

Glad,  indeed,  was  I  when  we  reached  The  Dalles,  on  the 
Columbia  River,  for  I  knew  we  were  nearing  our  journey's 
end  and  nearing  civilization  once  more,  where  we  could  have 
the  privilege  of  church  and  schools. 

While  getting  supper  that  night  I  suffered  a  burn,  the 
scars  of  which  I  will  carry  to  my  grave.  As  it  was  very  sandy 
here,  and  high  winds  prevailing,  we  dug  a  trench  to  build  our 
fire  in.  As  I  was  putting  something  over  the  fire  to  cook,  the 
sand  gave  way  under  my  foot  and  I  came  down  with  my  hand 
in  the  hot  sand  and  ashes,  burning  it  to  a  crisp.  I  could  act 
the  lady  for  several  weeks  after  that. 

On  the  morning  of  September  16,  we  took  passage  on  a 
little  steamer  that  plied  between  The  Dalles  and  the  Cascades. 
It  had  just  been  built  and  this  was  its  first  trip. 

We  remained  over  night  at  the  Cascades,  and  there  my 
brother  purchased  a  flat  boat  and  we  loaded  into  it  and  started 
for  the  mouth  of  Sandy  River,  quite  a  distance  from  the  Cas- 
cades. My  two  brothers,  with  two  nephews  and  the  rest  of  the 
men,  drove  the  cattle  down  the  trail  along  the  Columbia,  and  a 
hard  old  time  they  had  of  it,  too. 

AVhen  we  reached  Sandy  we  found  quite  a  nice  farm  house 
and  a  good  garden  of  vegetables,  which  looked  inviting  after 
our  six  months'  diet  of  dried  beans,  rice,  bacon,  dried  apples 
and  peaches.  Although  we  had  so  much  to  be  thankful  for, 
as  we  had  an  ample  supply,  and  some  to  spare,  which  was  more 
than  some  could  say.  Some  were  very  scarce  of  provisions,  but 
none  were  in  want  in  our  train. 

Here  (at  Sandy)  we  camped  on  the  banks  of  the  Columbia, 
while  my  brothers  took  a  contract  for  building  a  ferry  boat  for 
the  man  who  lived  there — a  man  named  Parker. 

It  w^as  perhaps  two  weeks  before  our  men  wnth  the  cattle 
arrived,  and  we  were  very  glad  to  see  them  once  more. 

The  boat  being  finished,  we  ferried  across  the  Columbia 
and  found  a  very  nice  settlement  on  the  river  bottom  after 
crossing  over.     My  brother  and  his  wife  stopped  here  to  take 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  169 

care  of  the  stock,  as  there  was  an  abundance  of  good  pasturage 
to  be  had  very  reasonably.  My  other  brothers  and  two  nephews, 
my  niece  and  myself  went  to  a  little  town  between  Portland  and 
Oregon  City — Milwaukee.  There  we  rented  a  house  and  went 
to  school  for  the  winter. 

We  soon  made  some  pleasant  acquaintances,  as  all  were 
2iewcomers  and  it  was  a  small  town.  We  attended  singing 
school  and  some  few  dancing  parties,  only  to  look  on.  I  had 
never  seen  nor  heard  a  violin  before,  nor  seen  any  dancing. 
]\Iy  people  were  all  verj^  strict  Presbyterians  and  we  were  never 
allowed  to  indulge  in  such  amusements. 

In  September  of  the  same  year  my  brothers  decided  to 
come  to  Puget  Sound  to  see  if  they  liked  the  country  better, 
as  we  were  not  favorably  impressed  with  Oregon.  As  they 
were  pleased,  they  returned  for  us  and  we  all  came  to  this 
part  of  the  country — Chambers'  Prairie,  Thurston  County,  in 
October,  1852. 

We  spent  the  winter  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the 
prairie,  on  the  place  where  the  Avidow  Collins  now  lives,  but 
which  was  owned  by  ]\Ir.  Nathan  Eaton  at  that  time.  ]\Iy 
brothers  did  the  first  fencing  he  had  done  on  the  prairie. 
Tliey  put  in  grain  on  shares  and  looked  around  for 
claims.  My  two  brothers  and  a  nephew  took  donation  claims 
adjoining  each  other. 

The  latter  part  of  the  winter  of  1853  my  brothers  split 
and  sawed  all  the  lumber  for  their  houses,  as  saw  mills  were 
unknown  in  this  section  in  those  days.  We  had  puncheon 
floors.  For  fear  you  will  not  know  what  that  is.  I  will  tell 
you.  It  is  a  floor  laid  with  split  logs,  the  flat  side  being 
uppermost.  The  logs  were  of  cedar  and  the  floor  was  nice 
and  white  when  scrubbed  with  sand  and  cold  water.  We  girls 
used  to  be  very  proud  of  our  white  floors.  I  think  it  was  in 
April,  1853,  that  we  moved  into  our  new  home.  We  girls 
were  the  housekeepers  for  my  brothers  and  nephews.  ]\Iy 
married  brother  lived  a  mile  from  us,  on  the  place  where  ]\Ir. 
Stralehm  now  lives. 

That  summer  was  a  very  dreary  one  for  us,  as  we  had 
never  been  where  there  were  forest  fires  before.  We  feared 
that  the  fire  might  come  on  us  at  any  time  as  the  grass  on  the 
prairie  was  very  thick  and  dry.    For  days  the  sun  hung  like  a 


170  THURSTON  COUNTY 

ball  of  fire  in  the  heavens.  When  the  rain  eanie  and  cleared 
the  smoke  away  all  was  again  pleasant  and  we  soon  forgot 
our  disagreeable  times. 

Our  housekeeping  for  my  brothers  was  of  short  duration, 
as  my  neiee  decided  to  become  somebody's  else  housekeeper. 
On  the  morning  of  September  22,  1853,  she  was  married  to  A. 
W.  Stewart,  a  young  man  who  had  crossed  the  plains  with  us. 

After  her  departure  I  made  my  home  with  my  brother  and 
his  wife  until  January,  1854. 

On  the  18th  of  that  month  I  was  married  to  Andrew 
J.  Chambers,  and  came  to  reside  in  this  house.  We  have 
spent  our  lives  here  since  then,  and,  by  the  laws  of  Nature, 
we  haven't  many  more  years  to  live,  but  hope  we  shall  live 
them  here,  where  we  have  seen  our  greatest  joys  and  sor- 
rows. I  must  say  that  I  had  never  known  what  true  happiness 
was  until  I  was  married,  as  I  had  never  known  the  love  of 
father  or  mother.  I  found  great  happiness  in  a  loving,  affec- 
tionate husband.  I  only  hope  that  all  my  daughters  may  be 
as  happy  in  marriage  as  their  mother.  We  have  raised .  a 
large  family  of  girls  (that  we  are  more  than  proud  of)  ten  in 
number,  seven  of  whom  are  still  living  to  cheer  our  declin- 
ing days. 

The  Indian  war  of  1855-56  was  a  trying  time  for  the  new 
settlers.  About  this  time  I  had  a  bad  scare.  Although  the 
Indians  east  of  the  mountains  were  on  the  war  path  and  we 
heard  all  kinds  of  rumors  of  their  intention  to  take  our 
section  of  the  country,  the  Sound  Indians  were  apparently 
friendly.  An  Indian  lad  w^ho  had  worked  for  us  told  us  we 
were  in  danger,  but  we  paid  little  attention  to  him,  although 
I  was  frightened  and  uneasy. 

A  brother  of  my  husband's  lived  a  mile  from  us,  on  the 
place  his  father  had  settled  in  1848.  This  brother  and  a  young 
man  who  lived  with  him  were  sitting  out  in  front  of  their 
cabin,  in  the  twilight,  one  evening  within  hearing  of  the 
Indian  camp.  As  thej^  understood  the  Indian  language  and 
heard  their  names  mentioned,  they  listened  and  heard  an 
old  Indian  say.  as  he  passed  his  finger  over  the  sharp  edge  of 
a  knife  he  had  bought  from  John  Chambers:  "Little  did 
John  think  he  was  selling  me  the  knife  to  kill  him  with." 
Then  they  talked  and  planned  how  they  could  execute  their 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  171 

bloody  work,  aud  about  this  time  the  boys  made  tracks  for 
our  house,  so  seared  that  they  even  left  their  guns.  How  well 
I  remember  that  night!  WLen  we  heard  the  gate  open  and 
shut,  Mr.  Chambers  sprang  out  of  bed  and  grasped  his  gun. 
I  tell  you,  those  boys  made  tracks  when  they  heard  him,  for 
they  knew  he  had  his  revolvers  and  gun  ready.  As  soon  as 
they  could  speak  they  called  to  him,  and  I  can  tell  you  we 
Vvere  relieved  when  we  heard  who  it  .was.  Oh,  how  I  shook! 
Just  like  one  vrith  the  ague. 

Then  the  men  sat  up  on  guard  and  run  bullets  all  night, 
as  that  was  the  only  kind  of  ammunition  we  had  in 
those  days. 

Early  the  next  morning  the  boys  returned  to  their  home 
to  see  how  things  looked.  The  old  Indian  was  as  fine  as  he 
could  be,  and  wanted  to  be  very  gracious.  He  had  told  John 
Chambers  some  time  before  that  he  had  come  to  camp  by  him 
and  was  going  to  live  and  die  by  him.  The  old  hypocrite ! 
When  he  saw  the  boys  he  asked  them  where  they  slept.  They 
replied:  "In  bed."  "Not  here,"  he  said.  Then  they  asked 
him  how  he  knew.  He  said  they  were  in  the  house  for  some 
medicine  for  a  sick  child,  which  was  another  story. 

Very  soon  we  heard  of  men  being  waylaid  and  shot,  and 
the  country  was  all  excitement.  Shortly  the  people  began  to 
gather  into  forts  to  protect  themselves.  The  fort  for  this 
part  of  the  country  was  on  our  place  and  is  still  in  use  as  a 
barn.  There  were  block  houses  on  each  corner.  At  one  time 
there  were  thirty-two  families  in  this  fort.  There  were  any 
number  of  children  and  dogs,  and,  consequently,  any  amount  of 
music,  especially  of  evenings.  "We  had  many  startling  events, 
of  which  I  well  remember  one.  My  husband  was  lieutenant 
of  the  company  of  volunteers  within  the  fort,  so  he  was  ordered 
by  the  captain  of  the  company  to  take  a  number  of  men  and 
make  a  scout  through  the  neighborhood  and  see  if  there  were 
any  Indians  prowling  around.  They  mounted  their  horses 
about  five  o'clock  one  afternoon  and  rode  away  toward  Yelm 
Prairie.  Shortly  afterwards  the  command  was  given  for  every 
man  to  get  his  gun  and  stand  in  readiness,  as.thelndiflns  might 
attack  the  fort  at  any  moment,  as  they  had  undoubtedly 
attacked  the  men  who  had  gone  on- the  scouting  expedition,  for 


172 


THURSTON   COUNTY 


they  had  heard  the  report  of  several  gnns  in  the  direction  they 
had  gone. 

Such  a  commotion !  My  feelings  can  better  be  imagined  and 
described,  but  time  told  us  our  fears  were  groundless. 

That  was  a  long  night.  Not  a  wink  of  sleep  for  me. 
Morning  came,  but  no  signs  of  Indians.  The  men  were  out 
two  days  and  never  saw  nor  heard  an  Indian.  How  rejoiced 
I  was  when  I  saw  my  good  husband  again ! 

There  was  one  man  in  the  company  who  used  to  give  us 
a  scare  by  firing  his  gun  while  on  guard.  The  orders  were 
not  a  gun  was  to  be  shot  unless  at  an  Indian.  Knowing  this, 
imagine  yourself,  sitting  by  the  fire,  with  everything  quiet, 
and  then  hear  one  shot  after  another!  The  old  man  always 
said  he  saw  Indians. 

The  war  broke  out  in  October,  1855,  and  ended  in  June. 
3856.     The  last  battle  was  fought  east  of  the  mountains. 

There  is  a  great  deal  more  that  I  could  write,  but  time 
will  not  permit  me. 


JACOB  OTT  AND  WIFE 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  173 


MRS.  JACOB  OTT 


"I  wish  ]Mr.  Ott  were  here  to  tell  yon  about  the  exciting 
experiences  he  went  through  in  early  days,"  said  Mrs.  Jacob 
Ott,  when  interviewed  and  asked  to  tell  the  story  of  her  life 
in  Olympia.  "I  never  knew  any  hardships,  and,  although  the 
life  in  America  was  new  and  strange  to  me,  upon  my  arrival 
from  my  girlhood  home  in  Switzerland,  I  was  always  com- 
fortable. All  dangers  from  Indian  outrages  was  over  and 
civilization  was  quite  well  advanced. 

"But  when  Mr.  Ott  came  to  America  in  1850,  he  found  the 
country-  ver^y  different  from  what  he  had  been  accustomed  to. 
He  was  also  born  in  Switzerland  and  it  was  there  that  he 
learned  his  trade  of  carpenter.  When  quite  a  young  man  he 
came  to  this  country,  stopping  first  in  St.  Louis.  Later  he 
joined  a  train  of  emigrants  bound  for  the  Golden  West.  All 
places  were  alike  to  the  young  man,  adventure,  and  perhaps 
a  chance  to  gather  some  of  the  gold  he  heard  so  much  about, 
was  what  he  was  looking  for.  The  trip  was  made  in  the 
regulation  way — ox  teams — to  Portland.  Oregon.  After  six 
months  in  that  settlement,  Mr.  Ott  heard  so  much  talk  of  the 
opportunities  to  be  found  on  Puget  Sound,  that  he  determined 
to  try  his  luck  there.  Tumwater  was  the  only  place  of  any 
importance  then,  so  he  came,  arriving  here  in  1852.  From 
Monticello  Landing,  Mr.  Ott  made  the  trip  to  Tumwater  on 
horseback.  The  prospects  of  this  section  of  the  Northwest 
looked  good  to  him,  so  he  decided  to  stay  here. 

"Among  the  first  things  Mr.  Ott  did  was  to  ])uy  a  num- 
ber of  lots  of  timber  land  in  the  town  and  begin  clearing  them 
oft'.  The  lots  were  very  heavily  Avooded,  and  almost  the  first 
thing  that  happened  to  the  young  man  was  an  incident  that 
at  the  time  frightened  him  into  a  cold  perspiration.  One  morn- 
ing he  had  laid  his  ax  at  the  root  of  a  tall  fir  and  had  it 
chopped  part  way  through,  so  the  miglity  trunk  began  to  bend 
towards  the  ground,  when  there  dropped  at  the  feet  of  the 


174  THURSTON  COUNTY 

yjiing  woodsman  a  small  Indian  bahy,  which  had  apparently 
only  been  dead  a  short  time.  Mr.  Ott  was  simply  paralyzed 
with  fear  and  for  a  while  thought  the  child  must  have  been 
thrown  at  him  by  some  unseen  Indians  as  a  menace  of  some 
sort.  But  after  a  while  it  occurred  to  him  to  examine  the 
top  branches  of  the  tree,  and  there  he  discovered  the  rude 
cradle  in  which  the  papoose  had  been  put  to  sleep  his  last 
sleep.  A  further  search  disclosed  three  other  Indians  repos- 
ing in  the  tree  tops  and  then  it  dawuaed  on  him  that  he  had 
intruded  on  an  Indian  'burying'  ground,  if  I  may  call  it  that. 
The  experience  was  an  unusual  one  to  a  young  man  fresh  to 
the  manners  and  customs  of  the  wilderness.  He  always  looked 
carefully  in  the  branches  of  a  tree  before  beginning  cutting 
after  that. 

"Before  Mr.  Ott  had  lived  in  the  West  very  long,  he  took 
up  a  claim,  five  miles  out  from  Tumwater,  and  built  a  little 
shack  on  the  land,  living  there  alone  while  he  cleared  and  got 
the  place  ready  for  planting. 

"He  didn't  spend  much  time  or  labor  on  the  house  and 
used  shakes  he  cut  himself,  in  the  construction.  So  flimsy 
was  the  structure  that  many  a  night  he  stood  guard  all  night 
long,  with  an  ax  in  his  hands,  to  protect  himself  and  pro- 
visions from  the  cougars,  which  whined  and  growled  at  the 
rude  door  and  threatened  to  break  in  at  any  moment.  The 
wild  animals  smelled  the  meat  which  Mr.  Ott  would  have  in 
his  shack  and  were  determined  to  have  their  share.  This 
lasted  till  he  could  take  time  to  build  a  more  secure  house. 

"Mr.  Ott  served  his  six  months  in  the  Indian  war,  as  did 
most  of  the  men  living  here  in  the  days  of  the  trouble  with  th-,' 
Indians.  Plis  special  work  was  teaming  for  the  government, 
hauling  supplies  to  the  forts  and  wherever  troops  were  sta- 
tioned. As  the  rascals  were  anxious  for  the  provisions  and 
blankets,  with  which  the  wagons  were  loaded,  this  was  con- 
sidered to  be  especially  dangerous,  and  ]Mr.  Ott  used  to  tell 
me  about  sleeping  at  nights  holding  the  lariat  ropes  of  his 
cattle  all  night  long  to  prevent  a  stampede. 

"One  night,  I  remember  my  husband  telling  me  about,  the 
Indians  were  all  around  the  teams  and  an  ambush  was  feared 
at  any  moment.  There  were  five  or  six  teamsters  in  the  train 
and  their  wagons  were  loaded  with  what  would  have  been  a 


PIONEER   REMINISCENCES  175 

rich  haul  for  the  Indians.  Night  ^^as  coming  on  and  the  men 
were  worried  at  the  prospects  of  camping  there,  being  al- 
most sure  they  would  be  attacked  before  morning.  A  halt 
was  called  to  discuss  the  situation  when  there  was  seen  com- 
ing towards  them,  the  most  wrinkled  old  squaw  the  eye  of 
man  had  ever  beheld.  She  must  have  passed  the  century- 
mark  in  years,  so  old  and  feeble  did  she  appear.  Holding  up 
her  hand  in  sign  of  peace,  she  came  up  to  the  men.  and  in 
Chinook,  told  them  not  to  go  that  way  that  night  for  they 
would  surely  be  killed  if  they  did,  but  instead  to  camp  for 
the  night  under  a  certain  tree  which  stood  all  by  itself  on  a 
cleared  place  a  little  way  off. 

"The  men  didn't  know  anything  better  to  do,  although 
they  were  afraid  of  treachery  on  the  part  of  the  squaw.  Bui 
after  a  consultation,  they  decided  to  take  the  warning  antl 
camp  where  the  squaw  directed  them  to  do. 

"Sure  enough,  the  tree  was  found  just  as  had  been  de- 
scribed and  when  the  teams  reached  the  spot,  the  wagons  were 
corraled  and  the  men  prepared  to  spend  the  night.  They  were 
not  molested,  and  in  the  morning  proceeded  on  their  way  in 
peace.  The  mystery  of  the  squaw's  protection  was  never  ex- 
plained, nor  why  they  were  not  attacked  during  the  night. 
Mr.  Ott  often  wondered  if  there  was  not  some  sort  of  an 
Indian  superstition  about  the  tree  which  safeguarded  anyone 
who  sought  shelter  beneath  its  branches. 

"After  a  number  of  years,  I\Ir.  Ott  prospered  so  well  that 
he  began  to  think  he  Avould  like  to  see  his  boyhood  home  and 
friends  again,  so  he  went  back  to  Switzerland  on  a  visit.  While 
there  he  met  me,  then  quite  a  young  girl,  and  induced  me  to 
come  to  America  with  him.  We  were  passengers  on  the  second 
train  that  ever  started  to  cross  the  continent. 

"When  I  arrived  here  I  couldn't  tell  'yes'  from  'no'  in 
English,  and  I  thought  I  never  would  be  able  to  make  my- 
self understood.  I  could  have  learned  Chinook  quicker  than 
I  did  English,  only  I  was  so  afraid  of  the  Indians.  ]\Ir.  Ott 
was  a  favorite  with  them  and  when  we  got  here  they  came  in 
dusky  swarms,  crowding  right  up  to  the  door  of  the  house 
to  see  Jake's  wife.  I  nearly  died,  I  was  so  frightened  of 
them. 

"I  was  that  lonesome  and  liomosiek  that  when  my  Henry 


176  THURSTON  COUNTY 

was  born  I  thought  if  anything  shonld  happen  to  that  baby 
I'd  just  end  it  all  by  jumping  into  the  bay.  But  he  kept  me 
from  moping  around  much,  for  he  was  the  greatest  care  for  a 
long  time.  The  poor  little  thing  was  so  tiny  that  for  the  first 
six  weeks  we  kept  him  in  a  ten-pound  tea  box,  wrapped  in 
cotton.  He  was  too  small  to  dress  and  when  he  was  big 
enough  to  handle,  I  had  to  make  him  a  complete  new  ward- 
robe, for  everything  I  had  made  before  he  was  born  was  too 
large  for  him. 

"When  we  finally  decided  to  move  from  Tumwater  and 
came  to  Olympia,  Mr.  Ott  built  this  house,  where  we  have 
lived  ever  since.  Every  stick  in  the  house  was  put  here  by 
Mr.  Ott's  own  hands. 

"Fifteen  years  ago,  in  August,  1899,  my  husband  died 
in  this  house,  after  an  illness  of  only  a  few  moments,  so  ful- 
filling the  desire  of  his  later  years  that  when  Death  called  him 
he  would  go  quick. 

"We  have  had  three  children,  Henry,  born  February  18, 
1870;  Walter,  born  in  Baker,  Oregon,  March  20,  1872;  Ger- 
trude, born  at  Globe,  Arizona,  February  28,  1875." 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  177 


DR.  ALONZO  GERRY  COOK 


While  not  a  Thurston  County  pioneer  within  the  strictest 
meaning  of  the  term,  Dr.  Alonzo  Gerry  Cook  has  spent  so 
many  summers  with  his  daughter,  Mrs.  Millard  Lemon,  on 
Puget  Sound,  and  during  his  younger  manhood  so  frequently 
visited  the  Territorial  capital  in  pursuit  of  official  duty,  that 
a  history  of  this  section  would  be  incomplete  without  some 
mention  of  this  grand  old  man  and  his  devoted  wife. 

Born  in  Portland,  ]\Iaine,  on  ^lay  13,  1839,  the  j'oung 
Alonzo  spent  his  infant  years  at  this  place,  accompanj'ing  his 
parents  to  Illinois,  settling  about  sixty  miles  from  Chicago. 
Here  he  grew  to  young  manhood,  and  after  graduating  from  a 
law  school,  was  admitted  to  practice  law.  In  1861  Mr.  Cook 
met  and  married  Miss  Isabella  Webster.  Dr.  Cook's  tribute 
to  the  devotion  of  his  wife  was  beautiful.  He  said:  "My 
wife,  born  in  London,  England,  came  to  America  in  a  sailing 
vessel  before  steam  was  commonly  used.  The  ocean  trip  con- 
sumed six  weeks,  then  through  the  Erie  Canal  to  Buffalo,  and 
then  through  Lake  Erie  to  Ohio.  Later,  after  our  marriage, 
to  Washington,  then  to  Long  Beach  and  Los  Angeles — cows, 
mules  and  stage  being  the  means  of  conversance  for  the  three 
times  this  noble  woman  has  accompanied  me  across  the  plains. 
In  later  years  we  have  taken  the  trip  several  times  with  all 
the  luxury  and  conveniences  furnished  by  the  Pullman  Com- 
pany, but  Mrs.  Cook  was  as  cheerful  and  uncomplaining  dur- 
ing those  days  of  hardship  and  trial  as  she  was  when  we 
traveled  in  comfort." 

In  the  Spring  of  1862,  Mr.  Cook  and  his  girl  bride  started 
to  cross  the  plains  with  a  team  of  four  cows.  After  the  usual 
hardships  attendant  on  the  emigrant  trip,  the  j^oung  couple 
finally  reached  The  Dalles.  Two  of  their  cows  succumbed 
to  the  rigors  of  the  trip  and  the  wagon  was  hauled  the  last 
stHges  of  the  journey  by  the  two  remaining  animals.  Dr.  Cook 
tt'lls  as  characteristic  the  way  these  pioneer  emigrants  had  to 
manage,  how  the  Snake  Kiver  was  crossed  in  those  days  long 
before  man  had  set  a  pier  or  placed  a  stick  in  the  building  of 
bridges   across   any   of  the  western   streams.     "We  took   off 


178  THURSTON  COUNTY 

the  wagon  bed,  when  we  came  to  Snake  River,  unloaded  our 
plunder  and  my  wife  spared  a  garment  and  I  spared  another, 
to  tear  into  strips.  With  these  we  caulked  the  wagon  box 
the  best  we  could  and  put  it  in  shallow  water  to  soak  over 
night.  In  the  morning,  partly  loading  our  equipment  in  the 
box,  we  started  to  paddle  over.  I  steered  and  rowed  the  ex- 
temporized craft  the  best  I  could,  but  the  water  rushed  in  in 
spite  of  our  caulking,  so  my  wife  bailed  for  dear  life  till  we 
landed  on  the  far  shore.  Then  we  had  to  return,  and  make 
the  trip  several  times,  for  we  did  not  dare  to  put  much  of  our 
plunder  in  at  one  time.  The  cows  then  swam  across 
the  river,  we  reloaded  and  proceeded  on  our  way,  nothing 
daunted  and  hardly  considering  that  we  had  done  anything 
remarkable,  as  that  was  the  only  way  of  crossing  large  streams 
in  those  days. 

"When  The  Dalles  was  reached,  we  sold  our  remaining 
cows  for  barely  money  enough  to  take  us  to  Portland.  This 
city  was  then  only  a  village  of  one  street  and  few  business 
houses.  We  stayed  the  first  night  at  the  old  Portland  Hotels 
a  small  wooden  building.  The  next  morning  I  went  out  on  the 
streets  to  look  for  a  job.  We  were  broke  and  I  needed  a  job 
the  worst  way.  Almost  the  first  man  I  met  was  a  farmer  from 
Yamhill  County,  named  Griner.  He  was  road  master  in  his 
section  and  wanted  a  man  to  work  on  the  road.  He  told  me 
he  could  give  me  and  my  wife  house  room  while  I  was  working 
for  him.  I  gladly  accepted  and  soon  was  armed  with  a  pick 
and  shovel.  Mr.  Griner  was  in  doubt  as  to  some  of  his  legal 
privileges  in  his  work  and  asked  my  advice.  I  told  him  I  did 
not  know  what  the  local  custom  was  but  so  and  so  was  the  law 
on  the  case.  He  was  surprised  at  my  legal  knowledge  and 
asked  me  about  it.  I  told  him  I  had  the  theory  but  had  never 
yet  practised  law.  Mr.  Griner  told  me  to  drop  the  pick  and 
shovel  and  take  my  wife  and  go  to  Lafayette,  Oregon.  He 
wanted  to  send  his  young  lady  daughter  to  school  and  wanted 
to  board  her  with  a  cultured  family,  and  assured  us  he  would 
see  that  we  had  enough  to  eat  during  the  winter.  This  was 
the  end  of  our  very  hard  times.  While  we  were  in  Lafayette, 
our  only  child,  Marabell,  was  born." 

Mr.  Cook  then  related  that  soon  after  the  birth  of  his 
child  he  was  offered  the  position  of  district  attorney  for  that 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  179 

section  of  the  Northwest  that  is  now  Idaho.  He  went  to  Boise 
City  alone,  but  sent  for  ]\Irs.  Cook  and  the  baby  within  a  short 
time.  They  remained  in  Boise  City  a  couple  of  years  and  then 
Mr.  Cook  was  sent  to  the  Eastern  States  for  the  purpose  of 
securing  a  charter  for  the  First  National  Bank  of  that  city. 
Chris  Moore  was  the  bank  president.  Ilis  wife  accompanied 
him  on  this  trip,  which  was  made  by  stage. 

Upon  Mr.  Cook's  return  to  the  West  he  settled  in  Van- 
couver, where  he  became  a  partner  in  a  law  office  with  the 
Hon.  H.  G.  Struve.  Struve  afterwards  was  made  District  At- 
torney over  a  group  of  ten  counties,  of  which  Thurston  was 
one.  "When  Struve 's  term  expired,  Mr.  Cook  was  elected  to 
succeed  his  former  law  partner. 

During  the  two  years  of  this  service,  Mr.  Cook  made  fre- 
quent trips  to  attend  the  Supreme  Court  in  Olympia  and  be- 
came very  well  acquainted  v»^ith  the  best  people  of  the  Capitol 
City.  He  can  remember  when  Tacoma  was  only  a  dream  of 
the  future,  one  settler,  Job  Carr,  being  the  entire  population 
of  the  City  of  Destiny. 

About  this  time  Mr.  Cook's  health  began  to  fail  him,  and 
in  looking  over  some  medical  books  to  investigate  his  ail- 
ments he  became  interested  in  medicine  and  decided  to  study 
that  profession.  He  took  a  course  in  the  Cooper  Medical 
College  in  San  Francisco.  Then  he  went  to  Chicago  where  he 
became  a  graduate  of  the  Hahnemann  Homeopathic  College. 

During  the  year  of  1872  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Cook  and  their 
young  daughter  went  to  California  to  make  their  home.  They 
were  accompanied  on  this  trip  by  William  Lemon  and  family 
to  Los  Angeles.  Dr.  Cook  practised  medicine  in  this  city  and 
Oakland  for  many  years. 

Although  the  doctor  has  now  retired  from  active  practise 
he  has  by  no  means  retired  from  active  life  for  when  the 
compiler  of  these  reminiscences  called  upon  him  at  the  home 
of  his  son-in-law,  Millard  Lemon,  he  told  about  having  spent 
the  greater  part  of  the  day  pruning  a  pear  tree  50  feet  high 
in  its  top  boughs. 

Dr.  and  Mrs.  Cook  claim  Long  Beach,  California,  for  their 
home,  but  every  summer  the  lure  of  Puget  Sound  calls  them 
and  they  come  up  and  spend  the  hot  months  visiting  at  the 
home  of  their  only  daughter,  Mrs.  Millard  Lemon. 


180  THURSTON    COUNTY 


WILLIAM  D.  KING 


The  history  of  William  D.  King  as  related  by  his  son, 
Charles  D.  King,  is  but  a  repetition  of  the  sturdy  expression 
of  the  spirit  of  adventure  which  led  so  many  from  comfortable 
homes  in  the  Eastern  States,  to  undergo  the  hardships  and 
privations  of  a  frontier  life. 

In  1852,  William  King  left  his  young  wife,  Caroline,  in 
their  Michigan  home,  and  crossed  the  plains  with  the  customary 
ox  teams.  Arriving  in  this  section,  the  summer  was  spent  at 
Grand  Mound  Prairie,  looking  for  a  place  of  permanent  loca- 
tion. 

In  the  spring  of  1858,  Mr.  King  decided  to  take  up  a  dona- 
tion claim  in  Cowlitz  County,  and  selected  a  site  just  above  the 
town  of  Kelso  on  the  Cowlitz  River.  For  a  couple  of  years  Mr. 
King  worked  on  his  claim,  subduing  the  wilderness  and  build- 
ing up  a  home  for  his  young  wife. 

Finally,  in  1855,  Mrs.  King  was  sent  for,  to  join  her  hus- 
band, and  made  the  trip  to  Washington  by  way  of  Panama, 
being  among  the  first  passengers  to  travel  on  the  railroad 
which  had  recently  been  built  across  the  Isthmus.  The  Kings 
continued  to  occupy  their  farm  on  the  Cowlitz  until  the  year 
1863,  and  during  this  time,  in  1859,  their  son,  Charles  D., 
was  born. 

During  the  time  of  the  Indian  war  troubles,  in  1855-56, 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  King  and  son  were  obliged  to  take  refuge  in  the 
block  house  on  the  Cowlitz.  It  was  during  their  sojourn  in  this 
place  of  refuge  that  their  second  sou,  the  late  H.  S.  King, 
was   born. 

Neighbors  of  the  King  family  in  the  fort  were  the 
Ostrander  and  the  Catlin  families,  whose  names  are  among  the 
best  known  of  the  pioneers  of  that  section. 

Mr.  King  was  the  second  auditor  ever  elected  in  Cowlitz 
County,  which  office  he  held  for  several  terms. 

In  1863,  the  family  sold  their  donation  claim  and  removed 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  181 

to  Clackamas  Coimty,  Oregon,  afterwards  settling  in  Umatilla 
County,  where  they  lived  until  the  time  of  Mr.  King's  death. 
This  latter  event  occurred  while  he  was  on  a  trip  to  INIiehigan, 
where  he  had  taken  his  younger  son  to  place  him  in  school. 
and  was  caused  by  a  railroad  wreck. 

The  son,  Charles,  then  wandered  forth  in  the  world  on 
his  own  responsibility,  leading  the  checkered  career  of  a  young 
man  striving  to  educate  himself,  and  at  the  same  time  earn  his 
li\'ing  on  the  frontier.  The  lad  drifted  to  California,  then  to 
Winnemucca,  Nevada,  then  on  into  Idaho,  finally  settling  for 
several  years  at  Weiser  City,  in  that  Territory. 

It  was  at  Winnemucca  that  he  was  admitted  to  practise 
law,  and  here,  too,  he  was  living  at  the  time  of  the  Bannock 
and  Nez  Perce  Indian  wars.  Mr.  King  was  one  of  the  guard 
stationed  outside  that  frontier  town  to  give  warning  to  the 
citizens  of  the  approach  of  the  Indians  who  were  ravaging  the 
country  in  Idaho  and  Nevada,  terrorizing  the  settlers,  and 
freighters,  and  even  the  inhabitants  of  the  smaller  towns,  who 
feared  an  attack.  The  tribes  at  one  time  joined  forces  and 
numbered  2,000  warriors. 

The  younger  King,  before  practising  law,  for  a  time,  led 
a  wild  life  as  a  cowboy  on  the  Idaho  ranges,  and  during  this 
time  was  participant  in  many  exciting  adventures. 

In  1891,  C.  D.  King  came  to  Olympia,  and  began  the 
practise  of  law.    He  still  continues  to  live  in  this  city. 

His  only  brother,  II.  S.  King,  died  in  01ym])ia,  in  1912. 


Ig2  THURSTON  COUNTY 


WILLIAM  LEMON 


William  Lemon  and  his  wife  were  among  the  pioneers  of 
the  Cowlitz  River  settlement,  and  later  of  Cowlitz  Prairie,  and 
their  experiences  in  this  section  were  such  as  to  try  men's 
souls,  until  land  was  cleared  and  cultivated  and  neighbors 
began  to   arrive. 

The  subject  of  this  sketch,  William  Lemon,  was  born  in 
Orange  County,  New  York,  his  parents  later  going  to  IMichi- 
gan,  then  to  Illinois,  and  still  later  out  to  Iowa,  where  they 
lived  for  several  years.  Here  William  became  a  man  and 
was  finally  married  to  a  blithe  Irish  lass. 

The  3"oung  couple,  with  their  one  child,  caught  the  emigra- 
tion fever  and  decided  to  cast  their  fortunes  with  other  emi- 
grants and  go  to  Oregon,  so  in  1852  the  trip  was  made  with 
ox  teams. 

When  The  Dalles  was  reached,  late  in  the  fall,  Mr.  Lemon 
decided  to  leave  his  considerable  number  of  cattle  there  to 
winter,  and  go  on  down  to  Portland.  Here  he  expected  to 
find  work  at  his  trade  of  carpenter. 

However,  before  the  little  family  reached  this  point,  an 
important  event  happened.  Their  second  child  was  born.  His 
birth  place  was  beside  the  Snake  River  in  what  is  now  Idaho, 
but  was  then  comprised  within  the  Oregon  boundary.  His 
cradle  was  a  box  in  the  wagon  bed,  his  lullaby  the  rustle  of 
the  wind  through  the  sage  brush  and  grease  wood.  His  mother 
told,  to  the  time  of  her  last  illness,  how  the  little  fellow  cried 
day  and  night,  after  he  was  taken  into  the  house,  for  the  rock- 
ing of  the  wagon>  That  child  is  now  Millard  Lemon  of 
Olympia. 

When  spring  came,  Mr.  Lemon  went  back  to  The  Dalles 
to  round  up  his  cattle.  The  winter  had  been  a  hard  one,  and  in 
common  with  many  other  emigrants,  who  had  hoped  their 
cattle  would  winter  without  other  feed  than  what  the  animals 
could  pick  up  on  the  ranges,  Mr.  Lemon  lost  every  one  of 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  183 

his  cattle  except  one  ox.  OAving  to  the  hardness  of  the  winter 
and  unexpected  rush  of  emigration  during  the  year  of  1852-3, 
the  crop  of  potatoes  produced  by  the  few  farmers  around 
Portland  was  soon  used  up  and  the  prices  for  this  vegetable 
soared  to  the  sky.  The  elder  Lemon  thought  there  must  be 
a  fortune  in  potatoes,  judging  from  the  price  he  was  obliged 
to  pay.  So  when  spring  came,  he  took  his  family  and  went  on 
up  to  the  Cowlitz  country,  took  up  a  piece  of  land,  and  put  it 
all  in  potatoes.  As  everyone  else  in  the  country  had  been  pos- 
sessed with  the  same  inspiration,  there  was  almost  no  giving 
this  humble  vegetable  away,  and  prices  scarcely  paid  for  the 
digging. 

It  was  while  living  on  this  homestead  on  the  Cowlitz  River 
that  the  baby  who  had  come  to  the  Lemon  family  on  the  plains 
nearly  lost  his  life  in  a  tragic  manner.  The  little  fellow  had 
just  begun  to  toddle  and  was  playing  around  the  door  step 
of  his  father's  cabin,  when  an  immense  eagle  circled  above  his 
head,  and  was  just  swooping  down  to  seize  the  child,  when  his 
father  caught  sight  of  the  bird  and  shot  it.  The  eagle's  body 
fell  into  the  river,  but  it  was  a  narrow  escape,  and  one  of  the 
mother's  favorite  tales  to  her  children  when  they  gathered 
around  her  knee  in  the  gloaming. 

Becoming  dissatisfied  wuth  the  place  on  the  river,  ]\Ir. 
Lemon  went  to  Cowlitz  Prairie  and  took  up  a  donation  claim 
of  a  half  a  section  of  land.  Here  the  family  was  living  during 
the  time  of  the  Indian  war,  seeking  refuge  with  the  other 
families  on  this  prairie,  in  the  block  house  on  the  Parsons' 
place.  The  women  and  children  would  stay  in  the  block  house 
and  the  men  fare  forth  during  the  day  to  till  the  soil  and 
gather  in  the  crops,  returning  to  spend  the  night  with  their 
families  within  the  safety  of  the  block  house  enclosure. 

]Mr.  ]\Iillard  Lemon  has  in  his  possession  to  this  day  the 
gun  which  his  father  used  to  put  over  his  shoulder  when  it 
Avas  his  turn  to  stand  guard,  and  to  protect  himself  with,  while 
tilling  the  land.  This  was  the  same  gun  that  ended  the  life 
of  the  eagle  I  have  told  about. 

Mr.  Lemon,  .^enior.  in  after  years,  received  the  pension 
awarded  Indian  war  veterans.  At  this  time  the  Cowlitz 
Prairie  was  principally  settled  with  French  Canadians,  servants 
of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  and  a  class  of  people  who  cared 


1.84  THURSTON  COUNTY 

but  little  for  educational  advantages,  so  the  mother  insisted 
that  the  family  must  go  somewhere  that  the  children  could  go 
to  school. 

Claquato,  the  county  seat  of  Lewis  County,  was  selected. 
Here,  for  four  j^ears,  the  Lemon  children  w^ere  taught  by  JMiss 
Peebles,  one  of  the  Mercer  girls,  and  who  afterwards  became 
Mrs.  A.  McLitosh,  of  Seattle.  ^Millard  Lemon  gives  this  lady 
a  just  due  of  praise,  by  affirming  that  she  was  the  best 
teacher  he  ever  had,  and  as  he  is  a  college  graduate,  he  must 
have  had  many  and  good  ones,  too. 

While  residing  on  Cowlitz  Prairie  and  Claquato,  Mrs. 
Lemon  made  many  visits  to  friends  in  Olympia,  and  Millard 
Lemon's  early  recollections  include  chasing  the  coavs  over  what 
is  now  Capitol  Park,  but  was  then  only  a  wilderness  of  fallen 
logs,  brush  and  stumps.  His  companion  in  his  boyhood  days, 
and  favorite  chum,  w^as  Fred  Guyot,  then  a  lad  of  about  nine 
years,  and  in  Mr.  Lemon's  own  words,  "as  fine  a  lad  as  ever 
lived." 

In  1874,  the  Lemon  family  went  to  live  in  Los  Angeles. 
California.  But  after  spending  several  years  in  that  place, 
decided  to  return  to  Washington.  Olympia  was  selected  as 
the  place  of  residence  this  time,  and  here  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Lemon 
built  the  house  on  Eighth  Street  that  was  the  family  home 
for  years,  and  where  life  ended  for  Mr.  Lemon,  in  1890.  Mrs. 
Lemon  lived  on  in  the  old  home  for  another  seven  years,  and 
then  she  joined  her  husband. 

To  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Lemon  were  born  seven  children :  Thomas, 
Millard,  Frances,  Marion,  Alice,  Edwin  and  Ida.  ]Millard  and 
Ida  are  the  only  ones  of  the  family  still  living.  Ida  is  now 
]\Irs.  Mann,  and  lives  in  the  family  home.  A  granddaughter 
— child  of  Alice — Mrs.  C.  Goldstein,  who  is  now  Mrs.  Garrett, 
has  lived  in  Olympia  the  past  few  years,  formerly  making  her 
home  in  Seattle. 

The  lad,  Millard,  studied  out  of  the  same  reader  with 
Fred  Guyot,  and  sat  on  the  same  bench  in  the  little  old  log 
school  house  with  the  little  girl  who  afterwards  became  Mrs. 
Charles  Talcott,  the  first  wife  of  one  of  Olympia 's  pioneer 
jewelers.  While  a  student  at  the  State  University  of  Oregon 
at  Salem,  ]\Iillard  Lemon  had  as  classmates,  Stephen  J.  Chad- 
wick,  now  Judge  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  AVashington ;  C.  S. 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  185 

wiek,  Judge  of  the  Supreme  Court,  and  C.  S.  Rienhfirt.  who 
has  been  clerk  of  the  same  court  since  Washington  l)eca!He 
a  State,  and  the  late  Frank  ]\I.  McCully,  Avho  was  Dej^uty 
Superintendent  of  Public  Instruction  of  Washington  at  the 
time  of  his  death,  in  Olympia,  in  ]907. 

In  1876,  ]\Iillard  entered  De  Pauw  University  at  Green 
Castle,  Indiana,  from  Avhich  institution  he  graduated  in  1880, 
taking  the  degree  of  A.  B.  Afterwards  he  took  a  classical 
course  and  secured  his  degree  of  A.  M.  from  the  California 
State  University.  Following  his  graduation,  Mr.  Lemon  had 
a  varied  career. 

Through  the  suggestion  of  Bishop  Taylor,  he  went  to 
Santiago,  Chile,  and  was  one  of  the  founders  of  Santiago  Col- 
lege, W'here  he  was  head  of  the  boys  department.  ]\Ir.  Lemon's 
stay  w^th  this  college  lasted  two  years. 

At  the  expiration  of  this  period,  Mr.  Lemon  engaged  in 
railroad  engineering  in  the  State  of  Chile,  continuing  in  this 
w'ork  for  the  following  six  years. 

Returning  to  the  United  States  in  1888,  JMr.  Lemon  so- 
journed long  enough  at  Long  Beach,  California,  to  become 
united  in  marriage  to  his  boyhood's  sw^eetheart,  Marabelle 
Cook.  The  young  couple  then  came  to  Olympia  to  visit 
]\Iillard's  father  and  mother.  The  business  prospects  of  the 
Capitol  City  Avere  bright,  so  they  decided  to  make  this  city 
their  home. 

Mr.  Lemon  has  been  successful  in  financial  affairs  and 
is  today  rated  as  one  of  the  most  solidly  successful  business 
men,  not  only  in  Oh'mpia,  but  the  entire  State  of  Washing- 
ton; a  man  who  takes  pride  in  the  description,  "His  w^ord  is 
as  good  as  his  bond." 

Three  children  brighten  the  Lemon  home,  Edith,  Mildred 
and   Gerry. 


18S  THURSTON  COUNTY 


I.  HARRIS  &  SONS 


The  name  of  Harris,  father  and  sons,  has  been  so  prom- 
inently identified  with  the  commercial  and  social  life  of 
Olympia  for  the  past  forty-five  years  that  a  history  of  Thurston 
County  would  be  incomplete,  indeed,  without  a  sketch  of  this 
family.  Although.  Mr.  I.  Harris  located  in  Olympia  as  late  as 
1870,  he  may  well  be  counted  among  the  actual  pioneers  of 
the  Coast,  for  with  his  bride,  then  a  young  girl  of  nineteen 
years  of  age,  he  arrived  in  Oregon  in  1853.  The  voyage  from 
their  New  York  home  was  made  by  the  way  of  Panama  to  San 
Francisco,  then  on  up  to  Portland.  The  first  stop  was  made  in 
Salem,  Oreg-on.  At  this  place,  Mr.  Harris  engaged  in  a  general 
merchandise  business,  but  later  concluded  to  try  his  fortune 
in  "Walla  Walla.  The  family  made  the  trip  to  the  latter  place 
by  stage,  from  The  Dalles. 

Mr.  Harris  was  one  of  the  leading  merchants  in  Walla 
Walla  for  the  next  four  years,  but  the  wanderlust  was  not 
yet  satisfied,  so  another  move  was  made  into  the  wilds  of 
Montana.  Mrs.  Harris,  with  her  two  small  sons,  Mitchel  and 
Gus,  visited  relatives  in  the  Eastern  States  while  Mr.  Harris 
was  trying  his  fortune  in  Montana. 

The  climate  of  this  section  of  the  West  not  agreeing  with 
Mr.  Harris,  he  decided  to  try  Puget  Sound.  Olympia  was  at 
that  time  beginning  to  attract  attention,  and  the  tide  of 
emigration  seemed  to  be  setting  in  strong  for  the  Northwest, 
so  this  settlement  was  chosen  as  the  next  field  of  activities. 
That  Mr.  Harris  was  pleased  with  his  selection,  is  manifest 
from  the  fact  that  Olympia  was  his  home  from  that  elate,  1870, 
to  the  day  of  his  death. 

AVhen  her  husband  was  finally  located  in  Olympia,  Mrs. 
Harris  and  little  sons  joined  him. 

A  third  son,  Henry,  was  born  after  ]Mr.  and  j\Irs.  Harris 
had  lived  here  a  few  years. 

The  first  store  building  occupied  by  Mr.  Harris,  was 
in  the  Tilley  block,  corner  of  Third  and  Main  Streets,  and  a 
line  of  general  merchandise  was  carried,  although  the  Indian 
trade  was  largelv  catered  to  and  a  brisk  business  was  carried 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  187 

on  with  the  natives,  who  bartered  skins  for  gaudy  lilankets 
and  bright  colored  beads. 

For  several  years  the  Harris  family  lived  in  a  neat  little 
home  on  the  corner  of  Fourth  and  Washington  Streets,  the 
land  now  being  used  for  business  purposes,  and  the  house  long 
since  demolished. 

At  that  time  the  home  of  T.  F.  McElroy  was  by  all  odds 
the  finest  in  the  town,  and  was  considered  quite  in  the  sub- 
urbs, surrounded,  as  it  was,  by  the  almost  untouched  forest. 
]\Ir.  Harris,  in  about  the  year  1880,  became  the  possessor  of  the 
half  block  of  land  between  Main  and  Washington  Streets,  and 
built  the  substantial  house  which  still  continues  to  be  the 
family  residence.  The  Harris  boys  attended  the  schools  of 
Olympia,  at  one  time,  being  students  in  the  little  school  taught 
by  Miss  Mary  O'Neal. 

Later,  the  two  elder  sons.  ^Mitchel  and  Gus.  were  sent  to 
Portland,  Oregon,  to  take  special  courses  in  German  and  music. 
Fpon  the  completion  of  their  education,  they  assisted  their 
father  in  his  business,  and  the  firm  name  was  changed  from 
I.  Harris,  to  Harris  &  Sons. 

In  the  year  1896,  Mr.  Harris,  senior,  while  on  an  Eastern 
trip,  contracted  pneumonia  and  died  before  his  sons  could  reach 
his  bedside. 

The  sons  continued  the  business,  which  had  developed  into 
one  of  the  leading  dry  goods  stores  on  the  Sound,  for  several 
years. 

With  the  exception  of  a  short  time  spent  in  San  Francisco, 
where  he  was  engaged  in  business,  INIitchel  Harris  has  success- 
fully carried  on  the  business  founded  l)y  his  father  forty-five 
years  ago. 

In  about  1900,  the  second  son,  Gus,  decided  to  locate  in 
California,  and  is  now  at  the  head  of  a  large  dry  goods  estab- 
lishment in  Los  Angeles,  his  partner  being  Felix  Lightner,  a 
native  of  Olympia,  and  son  of  a  pioneer  merchant  of  this  place. 

The  youngest  son,  Henry,  decided  to  devote  himself  to  the 
medical  profession.  Consequently,  after  completing  a  course  £t 
the  Leland  Stanford  University,  he  graduated  from  the  John 
Hopkins  Institute. 

Dr.  Harris  also  spent  a  year  as  interne  in  this  institution. 
He  then  put  in  two  years  \n  tlie  hospitals  of  Berlin  and  Vienna, 


188 


THURSTON   COUNTY 


taking  special  courses  in  medicine.  Upon  his  return  to  the 
United  States,  he  located  in  San  Francisco,  where  he  has  built 
up  a  large  practice.     He  is  married  and  has  three  children. 

Mitchel  Harris,  loyal  to  the  home  of  his  boyhood,  with  his 
wife  and  children,  Sehvyn  and  Irene,  has  been  twice  chosen 
to  the  office  of  Mayor  of  the  city  by  the  vote  of  the  people, 
and  at  all  times  has  stood  strong  for  the  best  interests  of  the 
community,  and  the  development  and  advancement  of  Olympia. 
His  family  are  prominent  in  the  best  society  of  the  city,  and  in 
many  ways  his  lot  is  cast  in  pleasant  places. 

The  widow  and  mother,  IMadame  Harris,  as  she  is  now 
called,  is  spending  her  declining  years  in  happiness  and  con- 
tentment, idolized  by  her  sons  and  her  grandchildren.  Some- 
times visiting  Gus  and  his  charming  family  in  Los  Angeles, 
for  a  few  months  in  the  year,  coming  to  Oh-mpia  for  the  hot 
weather  months,  and  then  back  to  the  home  of  her  youngest 
born,  in  San  Francisco. 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  189 


ALEXANDER  YANTIS 


The  history  of  Alex  Yantis  and  his  family,  while,  per- 
haps, not  more  filled  with  adventnre  and  trials  than  that 
of  contemporaneous  pioneer  settlers,  is  so  characteristic  and 
vivid,  as  related  hy  the  sons  and  daughters  still  living,  that 
their  experiences  merit  a  prominent  place  in  this  collection  of 
reminiscences. 

Hailing  from  Brownsville,  Missoviri,  the  Yantis  family, 
consisting  of  ]\Ir.  and  jNIrs.  Yantis  and  nine  sturdj^  sons  and 
daughters,  joined  a  train  of  ox  teams  for  the  overland  trip 
to  California.  ]\Ir.  Yantis  was  elected  captain  of  the  train  and 
the  trip  was  made  without  any  direct  disturbance  from  the 
Indians,  the  attacks  of  whom  was  the  emigrants'  constant  dread 
and  terror  all  through  the  long,  hot,  dusty  journey  over  the 
old  Oregon  Trail.  Although  the  trip  was  unavoidably  tedious, 
as  the  oxen  w'ere  tired  and  footsore,  still  many  of  the  re- 
membrances of  the  younger  ones  of  that  tr^^inload  are  pleasant 
and  full  of  interest.  The  big  camp  fires  at  night,  when  all 
gathered  around  telling  and  listening  to  tales  of  home  and 
adventure,  the  novel  experiences  each  day  "would  bring  forth, 
the  laying  by  for  one  day's  rest  each  week  to  allow  the  women 
to  w^ash  the  clothes  and  bake  up  a  supply  of  bread,  while  the 
children  played  around  the  wagons  and  picked  the  many-hued 
flowers  which  grew  by  the  side  of  the  road.  These  were  among 
the  simple  pleasures  which  made  the  trip  endurable  and  almost 
enjoyable.  The  Yantis  sons  and  daughters  still  tell  with  glee 
of  the  fun  and  play  of  the  trip,  whenever  a  family  reunion  is 
held.  They  were  a  happy  family,  with  the  family  ties  tender 
and  close  to  this  day,  among  the  children  who  survive. 

The  nearest  to  a  tragedy  encountered  was  w^hen  the  Snake 
River  countrj^  was  reached.  At  a  certain  point  in  the  trail 
the  road  diverged  and  a  sign  post  was  set  up  by  some  previous 
traveller  indicating  that  by  following  one  of  the  roads  a 
nearer   cut-off   would   be    found,    although   through    a    wilder 


190  THURSTON   COUNTY 

country.  One  family  decided  to  take  this  nearer  trail  although 
earnestly  remonstrated  with  by  I\Ir.  Yantis  and  other  men  of 
the  train,  whose  counsel  was  that  all  should  stick  together. 
But  the  man  was  obstinate  and  by  this  time  had  grown  care- 
less of  the  danger  from  Indians,  so  persisted  in  following  the 
short  traiL  The  rest  of  the  party  proceeded  on  to  Snake  River 
fort,  where  there  were  a  small  company  of  soldiers  to  protect 
the  emigrants.  It  was  known  that  the  Indians  were  near  and 
acting'  ugly.  Indeed,  the  night  before  the  fort  was  reached,, 
the  emigrants  of  Mr.  Yantis'  party  could  see  a  band  of  the 
enemy  dancing  a  war  dance  in  a  bottom  of  land  close  to  the 
camp.  Their  horrid  yells  and  vehement  brandishing  of  their 
guns  and  bows  filled  the  whites  with  terror,  which  was  not 
abated  wh-en  an  Indian  buck  came  dashing  up  to  Mr.  Yantis' 
wagon  and  asked  him  to  sell  his  little  daughter,  Sarah,  to 
him.  The  Indian  offered  his  horse  for  the  child,  and  when 
refused  by  the  parents,  rode  off  in  a  rage.  The  night  was 
spent  in  anxious  watchfulness,  but  the  Indians  evidently  con- 
eluded  that  the  party  was  too  strong  for  them  to  risk  an 
attack  on,  so  left  them  unmolested. 

When  Snake  River  fort  was  reached  and  it  was  learned 
that  the  two  wagons,  whose  drivers  had  taken  the  short  cut, 
had  not  arrived,  it  was  known  that  they  had  met  with  dis- 
aster. Mr.  Yantis  and  several  men  of  the  train  went  back 
over  the  trail  their  friends  should  have  arrived  from.  Before 
they  reached  the  wagons  they  heard  shots  and  screams.  Dash- 
ing up,  their  worst  fears  were  confirmed.  The  Indians  had 
raided  the  wagons,  shot  and  killed  the  man  and  his  wife,  and 
all  the  rest  of  the  party,  with  the  exception  of  two  boys.  One 
of  these  boys  was  lying  on  his  face  when  the  relief  party  came 
up,  his  body  shot  with  a  number  of  Indian  arrows.  He  was  not 
dead,  however,  and  upon  hearing  Mr.  Yantis'  exclamations  of 
horror  over  the  fate  of  the  rest  of  the  family,  called:  "Is 
that  you.  Uncle  Alex."  The  other  boy  was  carried  off  by 
the  Indians,  when  they  stampeded,  upon  hearing  the  relief 
party  charging  up.  The  lad  was  afterwards  brought  back 
to  the  train  by  a  Nez  Perce  Indian,  another  tribe  than  the  one 
which  had  committed  the  massacre  of  the  rest  of  the  party. 
With  a  redskin's  customary  reticence,  the  deliverer  refused  to 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  191 

give  particulars  of  how  he  eaiiie  to  have  the  lad  in  his 
possession. 

Two  years  before  the  Yantis  family,  which  is  the  subject 
of  these  reminiscences,  decided  to  leave  their  home,  a  brother 
of  Mr.  Yantis,  B.  F.  Yantis,  and  sister  of  these  men,  Mrs.  N. 
Ostrander,  had  preceded  them,  coming  to  the  Cowlitz  country, 
and  a  little  later  Mr.  Yantis  coming  on  to  01;^Tnpia.  The 
prospects  in  the  undeveloped  Northwest  looked  so  good  to  this 
advance  guard  that  they  wished  their  brother's  family  to  come 
West  also  and  locate  near  them.  Alex  Yantis  had  written  his 
brother  and  sister  that  he  intended  going  to  California  that 
summer, ^starting  at  a  certain  time.  B.  F.  Yantis  thought  nis 
brother  would  miss  a  golden  opportunity  if  he  failed  to  locate 
in  this  section  of  the  country,  so  hired  a  man  to  ride  horse- 
back back  along  the  trail  his  brother  must  come,  to  intercept 
him  with  a  letter  setting  forth  the  advantages  of  Thurston 
County.  The  man  rode  along  the  trail  to  where  it  branched 
off  and  led  to  California.  Learning  from  other  emigrants 
that  the  ones  sought  for  had  probably  not  reached  this  inter- 
section yet,  the  courier  waited  till  the  brother's  train  arrived. 

When  iMr.  Yantis  read  his  brother's  message,  a  longing  to 
see  his  kinsfolks  came  over  him,  and  as  all  places  in  the  West 
were  alike  to  the  adventurers,  they  decided  to  come  on  to 
Oregon — now  Washington. 

After  carefully  considering  the  tAvo  trails  then  commonly 
followed  by  emigrant  trains,  the  Natchez  Pass,  or  to  The  Dalles 
and  on  down  the  Columl)ia  River,  jMr.  Yantis  decided  on  the 
Natchez  Pass.  With  almost  incredible  hardship  and  danger, 
the  cattle  were  driven  through  this  pass,  and  the  wagons  fre- 
f[uently  having  to  be  lowered  down  declivities  Avith  ropes,  but 
finally  the  train  got  out  on  the  White  River  plains  and  so  on 
to  the  Sound  country.  Soon  after  their  arrival  on  Bush  Prairie 
Mr.  Yantis  located  on  320  acres  of  fine  timber  land  on  the 
Skookumchuck,  four  miles  froin  where  Tenino  now  stands, 
the  eldest  son,  John  Yantis,  residing  on  this  homestead  after 
the  death  of  his  father  and  mother. 

The  first  home  was  the  typical  settlers'  log  cabin,  which 
was  built  during  the  winter  of  1854.  During  the  building  of 
this  cabin,  the  Yantis  family  lived  Avith  Wm.  and  Phillip 
Northcraft,  bachelors,  and  the  nearest  neighbors.     Soon  after 


192  THURSTON  COUNTY 

moving  into  the  new  house,  the  entire  country  vv^as  startled  by 
the  Indian  outbreak.  The  stories  that  came  pouring  in  of 
homes  devastated,  men  and  women  and  children  killed  and 
general  havoc,  filled  the  settlers  with  alarm.  A  tract  of  lana 
on  Grand  Mound  Prairie  was  donated  and  there  the  men 
assembled  and  built  a  stockade,  or  fort,  which  was  known  as 
Fort  Henness.  This  enclosure  was  twelve  feet  high,  built  of 
solid  lumber  and  so  arranged  that  each  family  could  have 
their  little  house  within  the  safe  precincts.  In  the  center  of  the 
enclosure  stood  the  guard  house,  where  the  men  who  were 
not  on  picket  duty  would  assemble  to  warm  themselves,  swap 
stories  and  gossip.  At  two  of  the  corners  were  block  houses 
built  with  special  reference  to  defense,  in  the  event  of  an  at- 
tack. These  houses  were  only  a  few  feet  square  at  the  base 
with  steps  leading  to  the  upper  part.  Here  the  logs  were 
longer  and  the  upper  story  extended  out  several  feet.  There 
were  port  holes  through  the  log  wall,  to  shoot  through,  and 
these  houses  were  of  sufficient  size  to  hold  all  the  people  in 
the  event  of  the  natives  rushing  the  stockade. 

The  Yantis  family  lived  in  this  way  for  a  year,  IMr.  Yantis 
and  his  sons  g'oing  forth  mornings  to  cultivate  their  fields, 
and  returning  to  their  cabin  in  the  enclosure  at  night. 

While  Fort  Henness  was  never  attacked  by  the  Indians, 
the  elder  of  the  Yantis  brothers  are  enabled  to  recall  one  ex- 
citing incident  which  occurred  during  their  occupancy  of  the 
fort.  One  day  an  Indian  woman  came  dashing  up  on  her 
cayuse,  with  her  face  streaming  with  blood.  She  was  closely 
pursued  by  an  Indian  buck,  the  latter  wnld  with  drink.  When 
the  fort  was  reached,  the  woman  threw  herself  from  her  horse 
and  ran  into  one  of  the  cabins,  crawling  under  the  bed.  The 
Indian,  who  proved  to  be  her  husband,  stopped  when  within 
the  enclosure  and  I\Ir.  Yantis  stepped  up  to  his  pony  and 
demanded  to  know  what  was  the  trouble.  The  Indian  reached 
behind  him,  as  ]\Ir.  Yantis  thought  to  get  a  gun.  when  the 
white  man  pulled  him  off  his  horse  by  the  hair  of  his  head. 
It  afterward  transpired  that  the  Indian  was  reaching  for  a 
bottle  of  whiskey  he  had  in  the  holster,  with  the  intention 
of  treating. 

The  woman  in  the  meantime  made  her  escape  and  rode 
off  across  the  clearing.    When  the  husband  was  a  little  sobered 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  193 

down  he  started  after  his  wife,  threatening  dire  acts  when  he 
should  overtake  her.  He  had  not  g'one  far  from  the  stockade 
when  a  shot  was  heard  and,  upon  the  men  going  out  to  inves- 
tigate, the  Indian  was  found  lying  beside  the  trail  w^ith  a  bullet 
hole  in  his  head.  The  men  took  a  Avagon  box  and  covered 
the  body  until  the  Indian  agent  could  be  notified.  It  was 
commonly  reported  that  the  band,  of  which  the  dead  Indian 
was  a  member,  tortured  the  unfortunate  wnfe  to  death,  as  an 
example  to  the  other  squaws  of  the  tribe  never  to  thwart  their 
lords.  It  was  never  known  definitely  who  fired  the  shot 
which  made  at  least  one  good  Indian,  but  at  this  late  day  it 
is  shrewdly  suspected  that  the  man's  name  could  be  recalled 
b.y  the  surviving  inhabitants  of  the  fort. 

Before  the  Indian  Avar  Mr.  Yantis  had  accumulated  a  large 
band  of  cattle,  but  he  was  obliged  to  sell  and  dispose  of  nearly 
£il  the  animals  to  support  his  family  during  these  hard  times. 

The  wheat  which  Mr.  Yantis  raised  on  his  place  was  taken 
■;o  the  mill  in  TumAvater,  then  a  two  days'  journey  over  roug:h, 
muddy  roads,  from  the  home  place  on  the  Skookumchuek.  The 
grain  was  then  ground  into  flour,  paying  the  miller  a  toll  of 
:)ne-eighth  for  the  milling.  The  farmer  was  alloAved  to  keep 
the  bran  and  shorts. 

With  a  family  of  fourteen  children  to  sev\'  for.  a  number 
of  AA'hom  were  girls,  it  Avas  an  eventful  day  in  the  Yantis 
family  when  the  mother  had  her  first  seAving  machine,  one 
of  those  little  affairs  Avhich  are  scrcAved  onto  the  table  and 
run  by  hand.  The  elder  girls  can  not  remember  Avhen  they  first 
learned  to  knit.  Their  mother  would  spin  the  yarn  and  tli<' 
girls  knit  mittens  and  socks,  Avhich  they  had  no  trouble  in 
disposing  of  to  the  bachelors  living  on  ranches  in  the  vicinity. 
Sometimes  a  pair  of  hand-made  mittens  would  bring  a  dollar, 
and  the  girls  Avere  enabled  to  add  quite  a  little  to  the  family 
finances  in  this  Avay. 

Mr.  Yantis  Avas  a  member  of  the  legislatures  of  1860-63, 
county  commissioner  several  terms,  and  Avas  justice  of  the 
peace  for  his  neighborhood  for  many  years,  holding  the  latter 
office  at  the  time  of  his  death,  which  occurred  when  he  Avas 
72  years  of  age.  The  w^ife  and  mother,  who  had  endured  Avith 
unparalleled  cheerfulness  and  fortitude,  trials  and  vicissitudes 


194  THURSTON   COUNTY 

enough  to  appall  one  less  strong  and  brave  of  heart,  ceased 
her  labors  in  the  year  of  1877. 

The  sons  and  daughters  of  this  branch  of  the  Yantis 
family  were :  Margaret,  afterwards  Mrs.  E.  K.  Sears ;  Ann  E., 
afterwards  Mrs.  Wm.  Martin ;  Mary  L.,  afterwards  Mrs.  John 
F.  Damon,  of  Seattle ;  Sarah  E.,  afterwards  Mrs.  A.  Webster ; 
John  L. ;  Katherine  T.,  afterwards  Mrs.  Jesse  Martin ;  William 
F. ;  Alexander  M. ;  Sophia  Belle,  now  Mrs.  L.  Willey,  of 
Olympia;  Eliza  B.,  afterwards  Mrs.  S.  Hanaford,  of  Hanaford 
Valley ;  Martha  M.,  afterwards  Mrs.  N.  Gary,  of  Tenino ;  James 
E. ;  Virginia  T.,  afterwards  Mrs.  H.  A.  Davis,  of  Centralia,  and 
Fannie   G. 

James  E.  and  Fanny  G.  died  in  infancy. 

The  donation  claim  on  the  Skookumchuck,  started  in  an 
unbroken  wilderness,  has  become  one  of  the  finest  and  most 
valuable  farms  in  Thurston  County.  It  has  always  been  owned 
by  a  Yantis,  Mr.  John  Yantis  succeeding  his  father  as  owner 
and  manager.  Here,  surrounded  by  an  interesting  family  of 
sons  and  daughters,  in  company  of  his  wife,  who  has  done  her 
share  towards  building  up  the  home,  Mr.  Yantis  loves  to  recall 
once  again  the  strenuous  and  exciting  experiences  of  his  boy- 
hood days. 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  195 


GUST  AVE  ROSENTHAL 


The  following  sketch,  by  Olympia's  pioneer  merchant, 
gives  so  true  and  life-like  a  picture  of  early  business  conditions, 
that  it  is  presented  word  for  word  as  written  by  Mr.  Rosenthal 
himself,  in  compliance  with  a  request  that  he  furnish  some  of 
his  experiences  for  this  volume : 

To  comply  with  your  request,  I  most  respectfully  submit 
the  following: 

I  arrived  in  Olympia  on  June  19th,  1863,  fifty-one  j^ears 
ago  this  date ;  made  first  acquaintance  by  being  introduced  to 
Governor  Pickering,  then  chief  executive  of  Washington  Terri- 
tory. At  that  time  the  trip  from  San  Francisco  to  Victoria 
cost  sixty  dollars,  and  from  Victoria  to  Olympia  cost  twenty 
dollars. 

I  commenced  business  on  the  corner  of  Second  and  Main 
Streets,  selling  general  merchandise,  dry  goods,  clothing,  gro- 
ceries, hardware,  crockery  and  glassware,  boots  and  shoes, 
rubber  goods,  farm  implements,  etc. 

In  the  summer  of  1869  I  brought  the  first  mowing  machine, 
a  Buckeye,  to  Olympia,  and  sold  it  to  Thomas  Rutledge;  also 
the  first  water  ram  for  Nathan  Eaton,  which  to  my  knowledge 
was  in  operation  of  late  years,  on  the  creek,  the  farm  now 
being  owned  by  Mrs.  Bushnell. 

In  those  early  days  the  farmers  were  not  rich,  and  needed 
assistance.  In  1866,  I  furnished  some  of  them  with  hatchets 
and  drawing  knives  with  which  to  cut  the  hazel  brush  off  their 
land,  and  by  advancing  supplies  through  the  winter,  they  con- 
verted the  sticks  into  barrel  and  keg  hoops,  with  which  I 
supplied  the  San  Francisco  sugar  refineries  for  over  twelve 
years. 

In  those  early  days  land  was  not  being  so  closely  fenced, 
and  farmers  kept  large  flocks  of  sheep.  I  bought  their  wool 
after  shearing  time  and  shipped  annually  from  forty  to  sixty 


196  THURSTON   COUNTY 

tons;  in  fact,  handled  and  shipped  and  sold  a  good  many  of 
their  farm  products. 

At  that  time,  it  was  hard  for  settlers  to  reach  this  county. 
Emigrants  crossing  the  continent  had  to  follow  the  Columbia 
River,  which  landed  them  at  or  near  Portland,  so  in  1869,  I 
collected  a  subscription — about  four  hundred  dollars.  This  I 
handed  to  ]Mr.  James  Longmire,  of  Yelm  Prairie,  and  he  super- 
intended the  construction  of  a  wagon  road  through  the  Natchez 
Pass,  over  the  Cascade  Mountains.  The  first  use  of  the  road 
was  made  by  Mr.  Sam  Coulter,  bringing  a  band  of  cattle,  which 
produced  very  choice  beef. 

Since  that  time  various  parties  have  discovered  different 
kinds  of  minerals  in  the  Cascade  Mountains,  and  mineral 
springs  have  been  discovered  and  attractive  places  and  health 
resorts  established,  and  the  government  of  the  United  States 
has  built  a  fine  road  and  designated  Mount  Rainier  and  sur- 
rounding country  a  park,  which  I  suggested. 

In  1872,  I  opened  up  and  developed  the  second  coal  mine 
then  in  Washington  Territory,  in  Lewis  County,  and  built  a 
house  there,  in  the  shape  of  a  blacksmith  shop  from  which 
since  grew  what  constitutes  now  the  thriving  city  of  Chehalis. 
From  this  mine  I  shipped  the  first  train  load  of  coal  on  the 
Northern  Pacific  Railway  ever  hauled  over  that  road,  to  Port- 
land, Oregon ;  but  as  the  railroad  did  not  extend  beyond 
Kalama,  I  was  compelled  to  reload  onto  scows  and  have  them 
towed  to  Portland.  I  also  sent  the  first  trainload  of  coal 
over  the  Northern  Pacific  Railway  they  ever  hauled  to 
Tacoma. 

In  1873  I  loaded  schooners  with  piles  to  build  wharves  in 
San  Francisco.  In  1874  I  furnished  hewn  spars  and  ship 
knees — paid  25  cents  per  inch  for  knees— as  cargo  for  the  ship 
W.  H.  Bessy  loading  then  at  Brown's  wharf,  at  AVest  Olympia. 
The  ship  sailed  from  here,  around  Cape  Horn,  to  Goss  &  Sawyer 
at  Bath,  Maine,  and  the  cargo  proved  a  profitable  investment 
for  the  consignees. 

The  treasury  of  the  city,  and  likewise  of  the  county,  was 
of  small  amounts.  The  citizens  of  Olympia,  in  1867,  wanted  a 
railroad  to  connect  with  the  Northern  Pacific  Railway  at 
Tenino,  so  one  fine  day,  men,  women  and  children  gathered 
at  Warren's  Point,  held  a  picnic  and  commenced  the  railroad 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  197 

toward  that  point.  I  broke  ground  and  donated  forty  acres 
of  timber  land  towards  the  enterprise. 

In  former  years,  and  up  to  and  including  1868,  the  oysters 
were  sold  only  by  Indian  women,  carrying  a  basket  of  a  quarter 
bushel  on  their  backs,  supported  by  a  strap  across  their  fore- 
heads. They  sold  them  at  25  cents  per  basket.  I  shipped  some 
to  Portland,  San  Francisco  and  Victoria  at  $1.50,  which  bring 
at  present  as  high  as  $9.00  a  sack,  during  the  oyster  season; 
hence  I  started  the  oyster  business  which  brings  an  immense 
amount  of  money  annually  to  the  Sound  country. 

On  July  3,  1866,  on  a  trip  to  Portland,  three  days  of  in- 
tense heat,  after  a  cold  spring,  caused  the  Cowlitz  River  to 
rise  to  its  banks,  and  some  places  overflow  its  banks.  Canoe 
transportation  being  the  only  means  of  conveyance,  after  leav- 
ing Pumphries  a  short  distance,  the  Indian  pretended  to  scold 
at  other  Indians,  none  of  whom  were  in  sight,  and  as  we  were 
going  over  some  riffles,  the  Indian  said  to  me,  "Nanitch  acook 
chuck  mika  bias  cultus  Demanimus."  Translated,  "See  this 
water,  your  God  is  a  very  bad  spirit."  The  only  fellow  pas- 
sengers were  two  children,  a  boy  and  a  girl,  eight  and  ten 
years  of  age.  I  produced  an  instrument  from  my  hip  pocket 
and  commanded  him  to  manage  his  paddle  correctly,  or  I'd 
send  him  to  his  "Demanimus".  He  then  apologized,  saying 
he  meant  no  harshness  against  me,  only  some  Siwashes  in  the 
woods,  and  the  trip  continued  to  Monticello  without  additional 
events. 

Comparing  the  present  condition  of  this  country  with 
former   years,   it    appears   more    like   walking    into    a    parlor. 


198  THURSTON   COUNTY 


JOHN  HENRY  WILLIAM  STERNBERG 


When  E.  S.  Salomon,  who  had  just  been  appointed  Gov- 
ernor of  Washington  Territory,  arrived  in  Olympia,  he  was 
accompanied  by  a  number  of  men  whose  names  have  since  be- 
come prominently  identified  with  the  history  of  the  Capital 
city.  Such  men  as  Major  J.  S.  Hayden,  Ross  G.  O'Brien, 
Philip  Hiltz,  and  the  subject  of  this  sketch,  John  H.  W. 
Sternberg. 

]\Ir.  Sternberg  was  a  native  of  Germany,  having  been  born 
there  in  1825.  When  still  a  young  man,  he  bade  adieu  to  the 
Fatherland  and  came  to  America,  settling  in  Chicago,  where 
he  soon  acquired  considerable  property.  He  was  a  furrier 
by  trade  and  a  superior  workman.  Governor  Salomon  in- 
duced Sternberg  to  come  to  Washington  with  his  party  and 
establish  himself  in  the  fur  trading  business.  With  visions  of 
wealth  and  rapidly  acquired  fortune  to  be  gained  in  the  West 
through  bartering  with  the  Indians  for  the  furs  of  wild  ani- 
mals which  were  so  plentiful  before  the  march  of  civilization 
drove  them  to  the  remote  parts  of  the  mountains,  Sternberg 
accepted  Salomon's  offer. 

Mrs.  Sternberg  and  four  children  were  left  behind  in  the 
home  in  Chicago,  but  after  Salomon  had  been  in  Olympia  a 
couple  of  years,  he  engaged  Mr.  Sternberg  to  return  to  Chicago 
and  organize  a  colony  to  emigrate  to  Puget  Sound.  Salomon 
realized  that  the  vast  resources  of  this  country  imperatively 
demanded  more  men  and  women  to  develop  them  and  subdue 
the  wilderness.  As  an  organizer,  Mr.  Sternberg  was  very 
successful,  and  upon  his  return,  was  accompanied  by  a  con- 
siderable number  of  emigrants.  Mrs.  Salomon  and  Mrs.  Stern- 
berg also  came  out  with  this  party. 

The  trip  was  made  by  rail  on  the  second  train  making  the 
transcontinental  trip.  When  Oakland  was  reached  the  party 
embarked  on  the  steamer  Idaho  with  Capt.  Doane.  This  was 
the  last  sea  trip  of  this  doughty  old  sea  captain,  as  after  that 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  199 

he  settled  down  in  Olympia  and  started  the  famous  Home 
of  the  Pan  Roast. 

When  the  coh)nists  reached  Steilaeoom,  the  majority  of 
them  remained  at  the  military  post  at  that  place.  Governor 
Salomon  had  made  arrangements  for  their  support,  until  the 
men  could  locate  on  homesteads.  In  addition  to  this  encour- 
agement, the  homeseekers  were  supplied  with  teams,  farming 
implements  and  supplies,  payment  to  be  made  out  of  the  crops 
as  the  settlers  were  able. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Sternberg's  first  experiences  upon  the  family 
reaching  Olympia  were  boarding  for  several  weeks  at  the  old 
Gallagher  Hotel,  and  both  the  husband  and  wife  were  confined 
to  their  beds  for  several  weeks  with  fever. 

Later  they  went  to  housekeeping  in  a  cottage  situated 
on  the  block  bounded  by  Eighth  and  Ninth,  Adams  and  Jeffer- 
son Sreets. 

Mr.  Sternberg  now  began  buying  furs  from  the  Indians, 
making  extensive  voyages  up  and  down  the  Sound,  even  going 
as  far  as  Bellingham  in  his  canoe.  Mink,  wolf,  bear,  sable  and 
muskrat  skins  were  bought  or  traded  for  and  made  up  into 
fashionable  wearing  apparel  by  the  skilled  workman,  although 
the  bulk  of  INIr.  Sternberg's  stock  of  furs  were  sent  by  boat  to 
Eastern  markets.  He  once  made  a  cape  from  sable  skins  for 
Mrs.  Salomon  that  was  valued,  even  in  those  days,  at  one 
thousand  dollars,  and  would  be  almost  priceless  today.  In  all 
his  dealings  with  the  Indians,  ]Mr.  Sternberg  always  met  with 
honesty,  courtesy  and  fair  dealing. 

Priests  Point  Mission  was  at  this  time  deserted  by  the 
band  of  Oblat  priests  and  the  Sternberg  family  moved  from 
town  to  the  Mission. 

The  buildings  were  falling  into  decay,  all  but  the  chapel. 
This  ]\Ir.  Sternberg  partitioned  off  into  living  rooms  and  the 
family  took  possession. 

Mrs.  Sophia  Sternberg,  in  relating  her  experiences,  de- 
scribes the  life  there  as  lonely  and  dreary,  almost  beyond  en- 
durance. The  windows  were  so  high  in  the  church  walls 
that  it  was  impossible  to  look  out  without  standing  on  a  chair. 
There  was  no  road  to  town,  only  a  rough  trail ;  no  neighbors 
within  a  mile,  and  to  add  to  the  loneliness,  an  Indian  cemetery 
was  within  a  few  feet  of  the  church,  beside  the  trail.     The 


200 


THURSTON   COUNTY 


bodies  were  fastened  iu  the  tree  tops  on  rude  platforms,  as 
was  the  savage  manner  of  disposing-  of  the  dead. 

At  one  time,  while  lying  sick  on  a  platform  down  by  the 
beach,  which  Mr.  Sternberg  had  built  for  his  wife,  she  saw  a 
deer  come  almost  up  to  her  bed,  and  frequently  the  wild  ani- 
mals would  come  to  the  border  of  their  clearing. 

Tiring  of  this  lonely  wa,y  of  living  the  Sternbergs  re- 
turned to  Olympia  and  built  the  house  on  Union  Street  which 
was  the  Sternberg  home  for  many  3^ears.  Here  j\Ir.  Sternberg 
died,  on  May  6,  1893. 

The  children  born  to  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Sternberg  are :  William, 
Minnie,  Julius  and  Dora,  born  in  Chicago,  and  Emma  and 
Oscar,  born  in  Olympia. 

William  died  in  the  summer  of  1914  in  Kansas  City. 
Minnie  died  in  Olympia  many  years  ago.  Julius  makes  his 
home  in  Alaska.  Dora  is  now  ]\Irs.  L.  B.  Faulknor.  Emma 
is  Mrs.  Albert  Darling,  and  Oscar  lives  in  Seeattle. 

Mrs.  Sophia  Sternberg  makes  her  home  with  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Darling. 


CIvANKICK  CROSBY 


A.  S.   YANTIS 


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PHIIJP  NORTHCRAFT 


WIL,IJAM  BII^I^INGS 

DEIvATE  TILLICUMS 


JUDGE  O.  B.  McFADDEN 


kuKKRT  FROST 


REESE  BREWER  THEODORE  BROWN 

MORE  TILLICUMS 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  201 


ROBERT  FROST 


Robert  Frost,  or  Judge  Frost,  as  his  friends  best  know 
this  sturdy  Pioneer,  sailor,  artizan,  Indian  fighter,  merchant, 
capitalist,  judge  of  the  police  court,  holding  office  in  Thurston 
County,  has  led  a  varied  and,  at  times,  exciting  career.  Born 
in  Tunbridge  Wells,  England,  in  the  year  of  1825,  the  subject 
of  this  sketch  grew  to  young  manhood  in  jMerrie  England, 
going  to  school  in  London.  Being  apprenticed  to  learn  the 
plasterer's  trade,  there  was  little  in  his  early  boyhood  life 
to  indicate  what  an  eventful  career  lay  before  him. 

In  1853,  the  desire  to  see  the  world  and  share  in  the  big 
things  of  life,  induced  the  young  man  to  leave  home  and 
enlist  as  a  sailor.  His  first  seafaring  experience  was  on  a  coal 
brig  running  along  the  English  coast.  Later  he  shipped  on  a 
fruit  schooner  bound  for  Mediterranean  ports.  Then  on  a 
deep  sea  vessel  visiting  both  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  ports. 

San  Francisco  was  reached  on  one  of  his  voyages  in  1855. 
He  then  re-shipped  on  the  brig  Susan  Abigail  for  Portland, 
Oregon,  crossing  the  Columbia  bar  on  New  Year's  day,  1856. 
Arriving  at  Portland,  the  prospects  of  the  new  country  were 
so  alluring  to  him  that  he  decided  to  (|uit  his  seafaring  life 
and  cast  his  fortune  in  the  Northwest. 

Mr.  Frost  began  again  working  at  his  trade  of  plasterer 
in  Portland,  Oregon  City  and  The  Dalles.  It  was  while  work- 
ing in  this  latter  town  that  he  became  excited  over  the  stories 
received  of  the  big  strikes  made  on  the  Frazer  River.  Every- 
one who  could  muster  up  an  outfit  was  going  to  the  gold  fields, 
so  the  young  man  joined  the  Dave  McLaughlin  party  of  100 
men  and  started  on  what  proved  to  be  one  of  the  most  tlii-illing 
experiences  of  his  life.  The  story  of  this  excursion  is  given 
in  Mr.  Frost's  own  words  at  the  end  of  this  sketch. 

Disgusted  with  the  result  of  his  mining  experience,  our 
hero  decided  to  come  to  Olympia.  The  first  work  Mr.  Frost 
engaged  in  upon  his  arrival  here  was  in  a  printing  office. 


202  THURSTON   COUNTY 

Although  he  kept  at  this  for  three  years,  the  road  to  wealth 
nor  fame  did  not  lie  that  way,  so  he  returned  to  the  following' 
of  his  boyhood  trade.  As  the  town  was  rapidly  building  up 
and  the  wages  paid  for  plasterers  was  good,  he  soon  had  a 
financial  start,  which  later  grew  into  a  quite  respectable 
competence. 

In  1870,  Mr.  Frost  purchased  an  interest  in  the  hardware 
store  of  F.  A.  Hoifman  and  under  the  firm  name  of  Hoffman 
&  Frost  continued  in  business  for  the  following  three  years. 
At  the  end  of  that  time  Mr.  Frost  became  sole  owner  of  the 
business.  The  hardware  store  of  Robert  Frost  was  one  of  the 
prominent  business  places  in  the  Capital  City  for  upwards 
of  30  years.  Later  the  owner  disposed  of  the  store  and  be- 
came County  Treasurer.  This  office  he  held  for  a  couple  of 
terms  and  has  since  been  elected  and  appointed  several  times 
to  the  office  of  Police  Judge. 

Mr.  Frost  was  one  of  the  original  stockholders  of  the 
first  gas  works  and  electric  plant  in  the  city,  and  upon  its 
consolidation  with  the  Olympia  Light  &  Power  Company,  he 
was  elected  Vice  President.  At  one  time  Mr.  Frost  was  a 
director  of  the  First  National  Bank.  These  are  only  a  few 
of  the  important  positions  of  trust  and  honor  he  has  held  in 
the  city.  In  the  year  1862,  INIr.  Frost  married  Sliss  Louisa 
Holmes,  the  daughter  of  one  of  Olympia 's  Pioneers.  The 
young  couple  built  themselves  the  home  on  East  Bay  Avenue 
which  has  been  the  Frost  home  ever  since.  Here,  JMrs.  Frost 
died  and  here  were  born  their  four  children — Nell,  Caroline. 
Florence  and  Anna.  Florence  is  now  Sirs.  Charles  Garfield 
of  Nome  Alaska.  Anna  is  Mrs.  John  Aldrich  of  Spokane. 
Caroline  died  at  the  family  home  a  few  years  ago,  and  the 
remaining  daughter.  Miss  Frost,  keeps  house  and  cares  for 
her  father  in  his  declining  years. 

An  account  of  a  trip  from  The  Dalles,  Oregon,  to  the 
Frazer  River,  at  the  time  of  the  gold  excitement  in  1858,  in- 
cluding a  description  of  an  Indian  fight  on  the  trip,  was  written 
by  Mr.  Frost,  and  is  now  preserved  in  the  Spokane  Historical 
Society  and  the  historical  collection  belonging  to  the  State 
University  of  Washington.  The  description  of  the  fight  is 
given  with  a  clearness  and  excellent  choice  of  words  that  show 
the  writer  was  possessed  of  a  considerable  literary  ability. 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  203 

After  describing  the  incidents  of  the  trip,  ]\Ir.  Frost 
relates : 

"We  struck  the  Columbia  Kiver  opposite  the  mouth  of 
the  Okanogan  River,  at  which  place  was  the  old  Hudson  Bay 
fort.  Here  we  had  to  get  canoes  and  Indians  to  ferry  us  and 
our  supplies  over,  and  there  we  had  to  swim  our  horses.  We 
lost  three  or  four  horses  in  the  stream.  I  was  unfortunate 
enough  to  lose  my  best  horse.  I  felt  then  as  if  I  had  lost 
my  best  friend.  I  had  bought  the  horse  from  an  Indian  at 
Walla  Walla,  perfectly  wild  and  unbroken,  but  in  three  or 
four  days  I  had  him  a  perfect  pet.  He  would  follow  me  around 
and  when  I  stopped  would  come  and  put  his  head  on  my 
shoulder  for  a  caress.  After  all  these  years  I  have  not,  and 
never  shall  forget  him. 

"The  old  Hudson  Bay  trail,  which  we  were  following 
up  the  Okanogan  River,  was  first  on  one  side  of  the  river 
and  then  on  the  other.  One  morning  we  were  on  the  right 
bank,  when  we  came  to  a  rocky  bluff  which  ran  out  to  the 
river,  so  we  had  to  make  a  detour  to  the  right  and  go  through 
what  is  now  known  as  ^IcLaughlin  Canyon,  before  we  could 
get  to  the  river  again.  I  have  not  seen  this  canyon  since,  but 
as  I  remember  it,  it  is  quite  narrow,  with  high  perpendicular 
walls,  with  natural  terraces  or  benches,  only  accessible  froni 
the  northern  end.  At  the  southern  end  it  was  an  utter  im- 
possibility to  get  at  any  one  on  these  benches  except  with  a 
rifle. 

"Now,  evidently,  the  Indians  had  their  runners  out  and 
were  prepared  for  us,  for  they  had  gotten  on  to  these  benches, 
threw  up  rock  breastworks,  and  laid  for  us. 

"Every  morning  in  starting  out  we  had  a  head  and  a 
rear  guard,  generally  from  six  to  ten  men  in  each.  We  woukl 
change  about.  This  morning  I  was  in  the  rear.  The  head 
guard  had  gotten  well  into  the  canyon,  as  well  as  part  of  the 
train.  The  object  of  the  Indians  was  to  get  us  all  in  the  canyon. 
Had  they  succeeded,  very  few  of  us  would  have  gotten  out 
alive. 

"As  it  was,  an  Indian  on  one  of  the  benches  showed  him- 
self and  one  of  the  head  guard  saw  him  and  gave  the  alarm. 
Then  they  opened  fire.  As  quick  as  possible  the  horses  were 
hurried  back  to  the  river  and  all  took  what  shelter  they  could 


204  THURSTON   COUNTY 

get,  and  drew  a  bead  on  an  Indian  -whenever  a  chance  offered. 
After  the  animals  were  down  on  the  flat  every  available  man 
with  a  gun  went  up  to  the  front. 

"There  were  six  killed  in  the  start.  I  do  not  remember 
their  names  excepting  one,  Jesse  Rice,  from  Cashe  Creek, 
California. 

"There  were  several  wounded.  I  recollect  Tom  Menefee. 
who  was  afterward  well  known  to  Cariboo  men,  having  kept 
a  road  house  at  Williams  Lake.  Tom  was  badly  wounded— 
shot  in  several  places  with  slugs,  also  William  R.  Wright,  a 
brother  of  Capt.  Tom  Wright,  a  prominent  steamboat  man  on 
the  Sound,  and  Jim  Lowry  from  Vancouver. 

"Jim  was  badly  shot,  and  here  occurred  an  instance  of 
bravery  such  as  is  seldom  equalled.  Lowry  and  Bill  Burton 
vrere  partners,  and  were  the  first  to  take  shelter,  Indian 
fashion  and  fight.  They  were  some  200  yards  apart,  sheltered 
by  some  scrub  pines,  but  Lowry  was  shot  down.  As  he  fell, 
he  called  to  Brunton,  who  deliberately  left  his  cover,  ran  over 
to  his  partner  and  picked  him  up,  got  him  on  his  shoulder 
and  carried  him  to  the  rear. 

"About  noon  we  had  to  give  way  and  retreat  to  a  little 
hill  across  from  the  canyon,  from  where  the  men  plugged 
long  shots  that  afternoon  and  night.  The  rest  were  engaged 
in  building  cottonwood  rafts  and  carrying  the  freight  across 
the  river  into  the  open  country.  An  Indian  will  never  fight 
in  the  open  unless  he  has  all  the  advantage  possible.  Several 
of  our  men  were  busy  carrying  water  to  our  men  on  the  hill 
side. 

"During  the  night  we  ferried  everything  across  the  river 
and  by  daylight  had  the  horses  herded  together.  We  run  them 
down  the  river  a  few  hundred  yards  to  a  ford  and  got  them 
safely  across.  The  Indians  followed  us  in  a  parallel  along  the 
mountain  and  gave  us  a  parting  volley,  but  did  no  damage, 
as  the  range  was  too  long.  We  stayed  in  camp  here  several 
days  attending  to  our  wounded.  Now,  it  is  well  known  that 
the  average  sailor  is  very  handy  and  a  good  all  around  man 
most  anywhere.  We  had  in  our  company  an  Irish  sailor,  who 
had  been  in  the  English  navy  and  who  had  been  through  the 
Crimean   war   at   Sebastopol. 

"He  was  the  nearest  we  had  to  a  doctor.     Several  of  the 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES 


205 


boys  had  along  a  box  of  pills.  lie  selected  one  and  gave  each 
wounded  man  a  dose,  then  made  a  clean  pointed  stick  to  probe 
the  wounds  enough  to  keep  them  open,  and  after  washing 
them  laid  a  pad  of  wet  cloth  on  the  wounds.  The  'doctor' 
would  go  around  twice  or  more  a  day  and  probe  and  wash 
and  he,  with  the  pills,  stick,  cloth  and  water  did  the  whole 
business.  They  all  got  well,  but  it  took  Manefee  the  longest 
to  get  over  it. 

"We  kept  our  guards  out  all  night,  and  on  the  second 
da}^  we  knew  the  Indians  had  broken  up  so  far  as  this  point 
Avas  concerned,  as  we  could  see  them  in  small  parties  working 
down  the  plain  to  the  Chelan  and  Columbia  Rivers.  I  think 
it  was  on  the  third  day  after  the  battle  that  a  party  of  our 
men  went  up  on  the  west  side,  well  armed  and  with  tools,  to 
bury  the  dead.  They  crossed  the  river  at  the  north  end  of 
the  canyon,  entered  it,  met  with  no  resistance  and  came  to 
our  unfortunate  dead  comrades.  The  Indians  had  stripped 
them  of  everything  and  mutilated  their  bodies.  They  were 
buried  the  best  that  could  be  done  under  the  circumstances." 


206  THURSTON   COUNTY 


D.  R.  BIGELOW 


The  name  of  D.  R.  Bigelow  has  held  a  prominent  and 
honored  place  among'  Thurston  Coniinty  Pioneers  since  the 
year  1851,  when  he  first  arrived  in  Olympia,  having,  like  his; 
contemporaries,  made  the  trip  from  his  boyhood's  home  in 
Wisconsin  in  an  ox  wagon. 

He  was  a  graduate  of  a  law  school  and  upon  his  ar- 
riving here  hung  out  his  shingle,  meeting  with  such  success 
that  he  soon  had  a  considerable  clientage. 

When  Washington  Territory  was  set  apart  from  Oregon, 
the  young  man  was  sent  to  Salem  to  codify  the  laws  for  the 
new  Territory.  Mr.  Bigelow  was  a  member  of  the  first  Terri- 
torial Legislature,  and  enjoyed  the  distinction  of  having  de- 
livered the  first  Fourth  of  July  oration  ever  made  in  Wash- 
ington. These  exercises  were  held  in  the  first  school  house 
in  Olympia.  which  was  built  on  the  hill  on  the  block  of  land 
now  bounded  by  Fifth,  Sixth,  Washington  and  Franklin 
Streets.  The  school  house  was  crushed  down  the  following 
winter  during  a  heavy  fall  of  snow. 

Mr.  Bigelow  died  in  1905  survived  by  his  widow  and  seven 
children. 

JNIrs.  Bigelow 's  reminiscences  of  her  trip  across  the  plains 
and  her  early  experiences  on  the  frontier  were  interesting 
and  often  thrilling. 

That  she  came  from  sturdy  stock  is  evidenced  by  the 
bravery  of  her  mother,  IMrs.  William  White,  who,  with  her  five 
children,  among  them  being  Mrs.  BigeloAv,  then  a  young  girl 
of  fourteen  years  of  age,  came  across  the  plains  to  join  her 
husband,  who  had  come  West  the  previous  year,  1850. 

Mr.  White  wrote  back  to  his  wife  in  Wisconsin  that  if 
possible  she  was  to  sell  the  farm  and  join  him  in  Oregon.  This 
the  plucky  woman  prepared  to  do,  and  after  disposing  of  all 
their  property,   buying  a  couple  of  ox  teams  and  such  pro- 


PIONETETR  REMINISCENCES  .'207 

visions  and  outfitting  as  she  deemed  they  would  most  need  in 
their  new  home,  proceeded  to  St.  Joe,  Missouri. 

In  speaking  of  the  start  along  the  Oregon  Trail,  ^Mrs, 
Bigelow,  said: 

"All  the  men  started  walking  out  of  St.  Joe  beside  their 
teams,  with  guns  over  their  shoulders  and  ox  whips  in  their 
hands,  but  before  they  had  gone  half  the  way  to  Platte  Cross- 
ing the  guns  were  put  back  in  the  wagons  and  the  whips  were 
almost  worn  out." 

Although  this  train  had  many  alarms,  they  were  not  mo- 
lested by  the  Indians  throughout  the  entire  trip.  Several 
times  teams  before  them  and  those  following  after  were  set 
upon  by  the  Indians  and  the  people  massacred,  and  the  horses 
and  oxen  driven  off,  but  their  train  seemed  almost  to  be  under 
a  special  protection.  I\Iany  a  time  they  would  see  an  ox  skull 
set  up  alongside  the  road  bearing  the  grevi'some  Avarning,  "Be- 
ware the  Indians." 

One  day,  Mrs.  Bigelow  relates,  they  came  upon  a  wagon 
stranded  in  the  middle  of  the  road,  the  mules  unhitched,  and 
on  the  wagan  tongue  sat  a  man  crying  like  a  six-year-old  child. 
Halting  her  wagon  beside  him,  ]Mrs.  Bigelow  asked  the  man 
the  cause  of  his  woe.  He  did  not  reply  at  once,  but  a  tired, 
tearful  woman  looked  out  from  the  covered  wagon  and 
whimpered:  "Joe  says  he  won't  go  another  step  without  a 
drink  of  water."  Mrs.  White  fortunately  had  a  jug  of  water 
in  her  wagon,  and  although  the  liquid  was  almost  hot,  she 
gave  Joe  a  drink.  He  seemed  to  pluck  up  courage  after  this 
wetting  of  his  thirsty  gullet,  and  from  the  companionship,  and 
proceeded  on  with  the  train  to  a  camping  spot. 

When  the  John  Day  country  was  reached,  the  White 
family  were  delighted  to  meet  the  husband  and  father,  who, 
with  a  fresh  team,  had  started  to  meet  his  wife  and  children. 
When  they  arrived  at  the  Columbia  River  the  women  and 
children,  with  the  wagons,  were  loaded  on  bateaus  manned  by 
Kanakas  and  floated  down  the  river  to  the  Upper  Cascades, 
fibove  The  Dalles. 

Arriving  in  Portland  the  emigrant  train  disbanded,  the 
White  family  making  their  home  there  for  the  following  year. 
Later  the  family  came  to  Puget  Sound,  taking  up  a  donation 
chiim  on  Chambers  Prairie. 


208  THURSTON  COUNTY 

The  first  experience  of  Mrs.  White  and  her  daughter^ 
upon  their  arrival  at  Tiirawater,  is  well  worth  relating.  When 
the  family  reached  that  place  Mr.  White  told  the  women  to 
take  their  horses  and  ride  on  ahead  along  the  trail  till  they 
reached  the  home  he  had  prepared  for  them  on  the  donation 
claim,  while  he  would  follow  at  a  slower  pace  with  the  oxen. 
Full  of  glad  anticipation  of  at  last  enjoying  a  real  home,  IMrs. 
White  and  the  young  girl  set  out  along  the  trail.  When  they 
came  out  to  the  prairie  the,y  were  surrounded  by  a  band  of 
probably  100  Spanish  cattle.  The  prairie  at  that  time  was 
covered  with  roving  bands  of  these  long  horned  animals.  The 
horses  stood  still  with  fright  and  the  ring  of  cattle  crowded 
closer  and  closer  around  the  terror-stricken  women.  The 
brutes  clashed  their  immense  horns,  bellowed  and  pawed  up 
the  earth,  always  crowding  nearer  and  nearer.  When  the 
women  were  almost  fainting  with  fright,  David  Chambers,  the 
owner  of  the  cattle,  hearing  the  disturbance,  came  to  their 
assistance,  calmly  going  among  the  herd  and  shooing  the  beasts 
away  like  so  many  tame  hens. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  Indian  war,  jMr.  White  was  killed 
by  the  hostile  Indians  Avhile  walking  behind  a  cart,  in  which 
were  Mrs.  White  and  her  sister,  Mrs.  Stewart.  Each  woman 
had  a  little  child  in  her  arms.  The  Indians  came  out  from 
the  brush  and  attacked  White.  He  gave  the  horse  a  sharp 
cut,  wdiich  started  it  running  towards  the  White  home.  This 
spared  the  lives  of  the  women  and  children.  But  they  killed 
Mr.  White,  after  a  fearful  struggle  which  he  made  for  his 
life.  His  body  was  found  the  next  morning,  horribly  mutilated 
by  the  Indians,  who,  under  the  leadership  of  Yelm  Jim,  had 
taken  advantage  of  the  fact  that  White  was  unarmed  and 
alone  with  the  women  and  the  children.  It  was  thought  at 
the  time  that  had  Mr.  White  stood  in  a  little  more  fear  of  the 
Indians  his  life  would  not  have  been  sacrificed,  but  he  could 
not  believe  that  the  alarming  reports  of  their  treachery  and 
hostility  to  the  white  settlers  were  founded  upon  actual  fact, 
so  never  carried  a  gun  or  other  defensive  weapon.  The  death 
of  Mr.  White  was  one  of  the  tragedies  of  those  trying  times. 

Mrs.  Bigelow,  then  Miss  White,  was  the  first  school  teacher 
in  Thurston  County,  and  the  first  institution  of  learning  w^as 
the  school  she  conducted  in  a  small  bed  room  in  the  Pack- 


O 

:^ 

o 
o 
a 

XSX 

"n 

XSX 

o 

o 
o 
t^ 

w 
d 
I— t 

a 
I— ( 

Q 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  209 

wood  residence,  on  their  claim  on  Xesqually  bottom.  The 
pupils  were  the  children  of  the  Packwoods,  the  Shasers  and 
the  McAllisters,  which  were  all  there  were  within  travelling 
distance  to  the  school. 

"Teacher"  boarded  with  the  Packwoods  dnrinj^  the  week, 
but  every  Friday  evening  she  rode  on  horseback  to  her  parents' 
home  on  Chambers  Prairie.  The  curriculum  taught  was  prob- 
ably limited  to  the  three  "Rs"  and  there  vras  absolutely  no 
school  room  furnishing  or  equipment.  The  children  sat  around 
on  benches  in  the  room  wherever  they  chose.  For  teaching 
this  school  with  all  its  attendant  hardships,  the  young  girl 
received  the  munificent  sum  of  $20  a  month. 

Mrs.  Bigelow  had  many  thrilling  incidents  to  relate,  which 
happened  to  her  during  the  lonely  rides  between  her  school 
and  parents'  home. 

In  1854  Miss  White  was  married  to  the  young  lawyer, 
D.  R.  Bigelow,  the  bride  and  groom  taking  their  wedding 
journey  on  horseback  from  the  White  home,  to  what  has  been 
known  as  the  Bigelow  addition  for  over  half  a  century.  The 
young  couple  avoided  coming  through  Olympia,  as  Mr.  Bigelow 
had  learned  that  a  number  of  his  young  men  friends  had 
planned  to  give  the  newlj^  weds  a  rousing  reception  when  they 
reached  town.  The  ringleader  of  the  .jolly  gang  was  Jim  Hurd, 
Bigelow 's  most  intimate  man  friend.  He  had  procured  the 
cannon  which  figures  so  prominently  in  the  reminiscences  of 
all  the  Pioneers  of  those  days,  and  which  was  kept  in  readiness 
to  repel  Indian  attacks.  Jim  stood  on  guard  with  this  ancient 
cannon  loaded  to  the  danger  limit,  ready  to  give  a  rousing 
salute  when  Mr.  Bigelow  and  his  bride  should  appear.  By 
slipping  around  by  a  trail  which  Bigelow  had  cut  to  his  home 
they  escaped  the  demonstration  and  the  laugh  was  on  the 
assembled  crowd  who  waited  till  dark  for  the  young  couple  to 
appear. 

Mr.  Bigelow  purchased  a  quarter  of  the  donation  claim 
which  he  owned  for  many  years.  A  donation  claim  was  just 
a  mile  square.  The  other  purchasers  of  the  Caulkins  claim 
were  C.  H.  Hale  and  Miles  Gallagher.  The  Young  Bigelows' 
first  married  home  was,  in  Mrs.  Bigelow 's  own  words:  "A 
two-room  mansion,  built  of  hand-split  lumber  with   piinehe)n 


210'  THURSTON  COUNTS 

floors.  A  tiny  cook  stove,  six  plain  chairs,  a  primitive  bed- 
stead and  table  comprised  our  'setting  out'." 

No  bridge  was  there  over  what  is  now  known  as  the 
Swantowu  fill,  and  the  only  way  to  reach  the  Bigelow  home 
was  by  canoe  or  rowboat  from  Olympia.  Later  a  pontoon  foot- 
bridge was  strung  across  the  arm  of  the  bay  where  the  Olympia 
Theater  now  stands. 

When  the  Indian  war  broke  out  the  Bigelows  came  to 
town  for  safety,  making  their  home  in  the  block  house  for 
several  weeks. 

One  evening,  soon  after  their  return  to  their  home,  Mrs. 
Bigelow  was  sitting  alone  in  her  kitchen,  still  nervous  and 
afraid,  when  she  heard  a  noise  in  the  front  room,  and  on  look- 
ing around,  was  almost  petrified  with  fear  at  the  sight  of  a 
big,  blanketed  Indian's  form  which  filled  the  doorway.  It 
proved,  however,  to  be  Betty  Edgar,  a  friendly  squaw,  married 
to  a  white  man.  She  was  looking  for  her  halfbreed  children 
who  w^ere  late  getting  home.  Mrs.  Bigelow  told  of  another 
scare  she  had  endured  from  the  Indians.  One  evening  was 
seen  a  large  number  of  Indian  canoes  coming  up  the  bay. 
Each  canoe  was  filled  with  braves  in  war  dress.  The  men 
hastily  assembled  for  protection  and  the  women,  who  were  too 
far  away  to  seek  refuge  within  the  block  house,  prepared  to 
flee  to  the  woods  for  hiding. 

Mrs.  Bigelow  had  a  young  baby  by  this  time,  and  in  her 
excitement  she  snatched  a  carpetbag  and  began  stowing  in  it 
such  articles  as  she  thought  would  be  most  needed.  She 
laughingly  said,  "a  heterogeneous  lot  went  into  that  satchel — 
a  loaf  of  bread,  some  of  the  baby's  things,  some  of  my  own 
clothing,  etc."  But  before  long  the  men  returned  with  the 
reassuring  news  that  the  Indians  were  on  a  peaceful  errand. 
It  proved  to  be  Pat  Kanim  and  his  braves,  coming  to  deliver 
up  their  guns  in  accordance  with  the  terms  of  the  peace  treaty 
made  between  Governor  Stevens  and  this  Indian  chief. 

The  Bigelows  have  alwaj^s  been  prominently  identified 
with  the  Methodist  Church,  and  even  when  living  on  Chambers 
Prairie,  Mrs.  Bigelow  would  ride  on  horseback  the  twelve 
miles  to  Olympia  to  attend  divine  service. 

When  she  was  married  to  Mr.  Bigelow,  one  of  the  town 
jokes  was  that  the  last  white  girl  in  the  county  was  married 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES 


211 


the  town  wit  getting  in  his  work  on  the  family  name  as  he 
does  to  this  day. 

Eight  children  were  born  to  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bigelow:  Tirzah, 
now  Mrs.  Eoyal;  Eva,  now  Mrs.  Bonnev;  Ruth,  now  IMrs. 
Wright ;  Ellis,  Duncan,  Ray,  George  and  Margaret.  With 
the  exception  of  Ellis,  who  died  several  years  ago,  and  ]\Irs. 
Bonney,  who  lives  in  Tacoma,  all  the  children  live  in  Olympia 
and  immediate  vicinity. 

The  Bigelow  name  has  always  been  honored  and  respected 
and  in  the  stirring  days  of  his  prime  D.  R.  Bigelow  was  one 
of  the  prominent  men  of  the  Northwest,  and  the  sons  and 
daughters  have  been  a  credit  to  their  parents. 


212  THURSTON  COUNTY 


GEORGE  W.  MILLS 


There  is  none  more  to  be  honored  among  Thurston  County 
pioneers  than  Mr.  George  W.  Slills.  who  for  the  past  fifty 
odd  years  has  made  his  home  in  Tnmwater,  South  Union, 
{ind  later,  in  his  declining  years,  in  Olympia.  Mr.  Mills  was 
a  native  of  Illinois,  having  first  seen  the  light  of  day  in  that 
State  in  1833.  Here  he  grew  to  young  manhood,  and  when 
little  more  than  a  boy  married  Isabel  Fleming,  two  years  his 
junior.  In  Mr.  Mills'  own  words.  "We  were  but  children 
when  we  started  out  in  our  married  life."  A  few  years  after 
their  marriage,  ^Ir.  and  Mrs.  Mills  went  to  the  then  Territory 
of  Missouri,  but  had  hardly  settled  there  before  the  Civil  War 
was  declared.  The  young  man  organized  Company  G,  11th 
Missouri  cavalry,  and  was  elected  second  lieutenant  by  his 
company.  Mr.  Mills  was  very  modest  about  his  military  career, 
but  from  other  sources  comes  the  story  of  a  dashing  bravery 
when  in  active  service  which  may  Avell  be  a  source  of  pride 
to  his  sons  and  daughters.  The  principal  engagement  he  took 
part  in  was  the  Kirksville  charge.  In  this  battle  there  were 
many  killed  and- wounded,  and  while  Mr.  Mills  was  recounting 
his  story  of  the  engagement,  something  of  the  fire  and  spirit 
of  his  youthful  days  flamed  in  his  e.yes  and  animated  his 
form. 

Owing  to  illness  Mr.  Mills  was  obliged  to  resign  from  the 
company  before  the  completion  of  the  war.  Among  the  clearest 
recollections  Mr.  Mills  was  enabled  to  relate,  was  listening  to 
one  of  the  now  historic  debates  between  Abraham  Lincoln  and 
Stephen  A.  Douglass.  His  word  picture  of  the  appearance  of 
these  famous  characters  was  clearcut  and  vivid.  Mr.  Mills  had 
a  personal  acquaintance  with  Lincoln,  and  loved  to  tell  about 
what  an  "ugly,  raw-boned  figure  of  a  man  the  rail-splitter 
really  was,"  although  with  a  certain  majesty  and  dignity  which 
impressed  the  young  man  even  in  those  days. 

As  the  war  had  brought  bitter  hard  times  to  ^Missouri  and 


GKORGE  W.  MILLS  AND  WIFK 


PIONEER    REMINISCENCES  213 

the  cry  of  gold  to  be  had  for  the  picking  up  came  from  Cali- 
fornia, the  young  couple  decided  to  go  to  the  gold  fields  and 
gather  their  share.  There  were  several  children  by  this  time, 
but  they  were  all  hardy  and  strong,  and  their  parents  full 
of  hope  and  confidence.  Fitting  up  a  light  spring  wagon  for 
the  family  to  ride  in  and  with  an  ox  team  to  haul  the  provisions 
•and  the  very  few  household  furnishings  that  were  deemed 
absolutely  necessary,  the  start  was  made  for  the  land  of 
promise. 

When  the  upper  crossing  on  the  Platte  River,  on  the  old 
Oregon  Trail,  was  reached,  they  were  halted  by  a  company 
of  soldiers  stationed  there  to  protect  the  emigrants  from  the 
Indians,  who  were  on  the  warpath,  and  had  taken  several 
trains  of  emigrants  along  the  road,  killing  the  people  and 
burning  the  Avagons.  As  small  trains  of  wagons  rolled  up 
they  were  detained  by  the  military  officers  until  a  sufficient 
number  should  have  congregated  to  form  a  strong  enough 
company  to  resist  an  ordinary  attack  from  the  bands  of  In- 
dians who  roved  at  will  over  the  plains.  As  the  emigrants 
arrived,  "Oregon,  Oregon,"  was  the  cry.  No  one  except  the 
jMills  family  seemed  to  want  to  go  to  California.  ]Mr.  Mills, 
after  consulting  the  officers  of  the  company,  was  advised  to 
join  these  Oregon-bound  emigrants  and  go  with  them  into 
that  country.  It  was  pointed  out  to  him  that  all  places  in 
the  West  were  about  alike  in  advantages,  but  if,  after  reach- 
ing Oregon,  he  did  not  wish  to  remain  there,  he  could  then 
proceed  on  down  to  California.  There  seemed  to  be  no  alter- 
native, so  the  young  couple  joined  the  Oregon-ward  march. 
By  this  time  enough  emigrants  had  arrived  at  the  crossing 
to  make  a  train  of  sixty  wagons  and  three  buggies.  Owing 
to  Mr.  Mills'  military  training  and  his  commanding  person- 
ality, he  was  unanimously  elected  captain  of  the  train,  or  mili- 
tary director.  Eegular  drills  were  held  to  teach  the  men  how 
to  corrall  the  wagons  and  prepare  to  withstand  an  attack, 
should  the  Indians  make  their  appearance.  Five  and  a  half 
weary  months  of  travelling  followed,  with  the  usual  story  of 
bitter  hardships  endured  with  uncomplaining  fortitude  by  these 
sturdy  men  and  women.  Many  and  harrowing  were  the  ex- 
periences undergone,  and  the  fear  of  Indian  assault  was  ever 
present.     This  fear  was    founded    upon    several    terril)h'    re- 


214  THURSTON   COUNTY 

minders  of  the  possible  fata  of  the  adventurers.  Two  or  three 
times  the  train  was  halted  to  give  the  men  time  to  inter  the 
I'emains  of  victims  of  the  Indians'  wanton  massacre. 

One  day,  ]\Ir.  ]\[ills  related,  they  came  upon  what  had 
evidently  been  the  scene  of  a  battle.  The  remains  of  a 
burned  wagon  was  in  the  road,  with  what  had  been  its  contents; 
scattered  over  the  plain.  A  few  feet  from  the  side  of  the 
road  was  a  hastily-formed  mound  of  loose  dirt  and  sod.  Be- 
tween two  clods  of  earth,  which  were  not  closely  packed  down, 
streamed  the  long  tresses  of  a  woman's  hair.  The  locks  were 
of  a  beautiful  brown  color  and  of  great  abundance.  From 
the  size  and  shape  of  the  mound  it  was  evident  that  there 
were  two  forms  under  the  earth,  and  the  most  pathetic  sight 
of  all,  on  top  of  the  rude  grave,  curled  up  as  though  asleep, 
was  the  form  of  a  tiny  spaniel.  There  was  no  inscription  or 
sign  of  any  kind  to  tell  who  were  here  buried,  but  the  gen- 
eral conjecture  was  that  here  were  the  remains  of  a  husband 
p.nd  wife,  who  had  been  murdered  by  the  Indians,  their  com- 
panions only  taking  time  to  throw  a  little  earth  over  their 
forms  before  fleeing  for  their  own  lives.  The  little  dog  was 
probably  the  pet  of  the  dead,  and  instinctively  knew  that  his 
friends  were  sleeping  there,  so  had  stayed  by  them  until  death 
came  from  starvation. 

When  Oregon  was  finally  reached  and  the  emigrant  train 
disbanded,  the  Mills  family  settled  in  Yamhill  County,  where 
!Mr.  ]\Iills  went  to  farming.  Here,  the  following  winter,  was 
born  their  son,  George  G.  Mills. 

The  next  spring,  encouraged  by  letters  from  a  former 
neighbor,  who  had  come  to  Puget  Sound  the  previous  year, 
they  decided  to  come  on  to  this  county.  Packing  the  wife 
and  children  into  a  wagon  drawn  by  a  span  of  mules,  they 
started  for  the  Sound,  arriving  in  1865. 

When  they  reached  Tumwater  and  Mrs.  Mills  beheld  the 
salt  water  before  her,  with  the  great  forest  on  all  sides,  she 
said:  "Well,  Pa,  this  is  the  jumping  off  place.  We  haven't 
the  money  to  go  back;  we  can  go  no  further,  so  we've  just  got 
to  stay  here."    J^nd  stay  they  did. 

For  the  first  three  and  a  half  years  in  the  new  home  Mr. 
Mills  was  head  sawj^er  at  Ward's  mill,  at  the  upper  Tumwater 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  215 

Falls.    At  about  this  time  Jesse  T.,  the  youngest  child  of  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  ]Mills,  was  born. 

A  few  3-ears  later  the  couple  bought  forty  acres  of  land 
at  South  Union,  six  miles  from  Tumwater.  ^ilr.  jMills  said  this 
land  was  only  bought  after  earnest  consideration,  for  they 
vrell  knew  that  the  country  Avas  developing  so  rapidly  that  if 
they  went  further  back  in  the  wilderness  and  took  up  a  home- 
stead of  good  soil,  such  as  was  to  be  had  for  the  asking  at 
that  time,  they  would  in  the  long  run  be  better  off  financially, 
but  Mrs.  Mills  plead:  "Let's  give  the  children  a  chance. 
We  owe  it  to  them  not  to  get  away  from  schooling  advan- 
tages." Even  then  there  was  a  fairly  good  rustic  school  at 
South  Union,  and  as  the  children,  one  by  one,  acquired  the 
knowledge  taught  there,  they  were  sent  into  Olympia  to  get 
further  educational  advantages.  Mary,  George  and  Jesse  were 
graduates  of  the  Olympia  Collegiate  Institute. 

When  the  land  at  South  Union  was  first  bought  it  was 
covered  with  the  forest  primeval.  Mr.  IMills'  first  work  was  to 
cut  down  big  trees  enough  to  clear  a  building  site  for  his 
house.  In  course  of  time,  and  through  the  heart-breaking  labor 
which  the  development  of  wild  forest  land  calls  for,  the  farm 
was  gradually  cleared,  a  good  nine-room  house  erected,  and 
the  Mills  place  at  South  Union  became  one  of  the  most  vain 
able  farms  in  the  county. 

In  the  year  1882  "Sir.  IMills  was  made  industrial  instructor 
at  the  Indian  school  at  Chehalis,  teaching  the  Indian  boys  the 
7'udiments  of  several  trades.  Mrs.  Mills  accompanied  her 
husband  with  such  of  her  children  as  were  not  attending 
school  in  Olympia.  Among  the  pupils  in  the  school  was  Jesse 
IMills,  a  ring-leader  in  all  the  sports,  and  undoubtedly  nuich 
of  the  mischief,  perpetrated  by  the  dusky  lads.  As  he  was 
constantly  associated  with  the  Indians,  and  they  were  prac- 
tically his  only  playmates,  the  youngster  readily  acquired  ti 
proficient  knowledge  of  not  only  in  the  Chinook  jargon,  but 
the  Indian  language  as  well.  Consequentl3%  when  an  Indian 
parent  would  come  to  enquire  regarding  the  progress  and 
welfare  of  their  offspring,  Jesse  Avas  frequently  called  m  n'< 
interpreter. 

At  the  end  of  four  and  a  half  years,  the  IMills  family  re- 
turned to  their  farm  at  South  Uu'on,   but  had  onl\-  been  there 


216  THURSTON   COUNTY 

a  few  weeks,  when  the  Indian  agent  plead  with  JMr.  IMills  to 
take  charge  of  the  Indian  school  at  Skykomish.  This  ser- 
vice lasted  eighteen  months,  when  Mr.  Mills  was  relieved  and 
Hgain  took  up  his  residence  on  the  farm. 

At  the  time  of  Mr.  iMills'  arrival  in  Turawater,  that  set- 
tlement was  more  of  a  town  than  01.ympia,  and  there  was 
only  a  muddy  trail  connecting  the  two  towns.  From  where 
Masonic  Temple  now  stands,  in  Olympia,  to  Tumwater  Falls, 
there  was  the  untouched  forest,  and  on  about  the  spot  where 
the  George  Israel  home  is  now  built  was  an  Indian  village  the 
inmates  of  which  hunted  big  game  in  the  immediate  neigh- 
borhood. 

Mr.  Mills  tells  that  many  a  night  after  his  day's  work  in 
the  saw  mill,  he  and  Mrs.  Mills  would  take  a  lantern  and 
flounder  along  the  trail  to  Olympia,  to  trade  out  his  pay 
checks  at  the  Percival  store.  There  was  very  little  ready 
money  in  circulation  and  the  cost  of  all  commodities  was 
very  high,  flour  selling  for  $2  a  sack  of  forty-nine  pounds, 
or  $50  a  barrel,  with  sugar,  butter,  coffee,  bacon  and  other 
necessaries  in  proportion.  As  everything  was  brought  around 
the  Horn  in  sailing  vessels,  these  prices  were  probably  not 
excessive,  all  things  considered. 

"Well,  we  had  jolly  times  in  those  days,"  said  Mr.  Mills. 
"We  were  like  one  family.  If  one  was  in  trouble  it  was  the 
concern  of  all.  We  shared  in  each  others'  joys  and  sympa- 
thized in  each  others'  sorrows. 

"Ovir  principal  amusements  were  dancing  in  the  winter 
and  picnics  in  the  summer.  Then  a  dance  Avas  a  dance.  Be- 
ginning early  in  the  evening  and  lasting  all  night,  till  morn- 
ing brought  light  enough  to  see  the  trails  leading  to  our 
homes.  And  those  good  old  dances — Old  Dan  Tucker,  basket 
quadrille.  Cheater's  swing,  polkas,  mazurkas,  firemens'  quad- 
rille— where  are  they  now?  I  never  heard  the  word  tango 
nor  saw  a  meditation  waltz  in  my  day,  but  think  we  had  just 
as  much  fun  at  our  gatherings  as  they  do  now — maybe  more. 

"Of  all  the  men  with  whom  I  was  associated  in  a  business 
way  when  I  first  came  to  the  country.  I  can  think  of  but  five 
who  are  still  living — Eobert  Frost,  John  Murphy,  Gus  Rosen- 
thal, Tom  Prather  and  P.  D.  Moore." 

Mr.  Mills  tells  with  reminiscent  glee  of  one  of  the  pranks 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  217 

of  his  younger  days.  In  1863  political  sentiment  betAveen  the 
Whig  party  and  the  Democratic  party  was  very  decided,  and 
party  spirit  very  bitter.  The  election  of  a  Territorial  Delegate 
to  Congress  was  imminent.  Alvin  Flanders  of  Vanconver — 
Whig — was  running  against  Francis  Clark — Democrat^ — of  Ta- 
c'oma.  When  the  news  of  Flanders'  election  reached  us.  Turn- 
water  went  wild.  Speedily  congregating,  the  Republicans  se- 
cured a  number  of  disused  saws  from  the  mill.  By  striking 
these  with  hammers  and  iron  bars  a  noise  horrible  enough  to 
wake  the  dead  resulted.  Tin  cans  and  horse  fiddles  added  their 
notes  to  the  horrid  din.  After  parading  through  the  blocks  of 
Tumwater  streets,  it  was  then  for  Olympia.  Down  by  Crosby's 
mill  went  the  jolly  boys,  along  the  trail  to  the  bluff  above  Tum- 
water. Here  was  peacefully  grazing  the  Biles'  family  cow. 
Her  big  brass  bell  was  soon  added  to  the  orchestra's  force. 

When  the  noisy  procession  was  about  half  way  to  Olympia 
they  met  two  foppishly  dressed  young  young  men  riding  on 
livery  horses.  They  were  stopped  and  their  political  convic- 
tions demanded.  As  they  did  not  reply,  but  seemed  frightened 
at  the  demonstrations,  they  were  allowed  to  proceed  on  their 
way  after  the  enthusiasts  had  given  them  three  rousing  groans 
and  some  mighty  uncomplimentary  remarks  as  a  parting. 

When  Olympia  Avas  reached  the  procession  was  SAvelled  liy 
the  faithful  of  that  burg.  As  they  paraded  up  and  doAvn  the 
streets  a  stop  was  made  before  every  place  of  business  as  well 
as  every  dwelling  house.  In  those  days  there  Avas  no  side  step- 
ping, or  hiding  one's  political  affiliations,  and  every  man  had 
to  stand  squarely  on  his  party's  platform.  Consequently  it  Avas 
pretty  well  knoAvn  just  how  each  and  every  man  had  voted.  So 
as  the  parade  passed  the  house  of  one  of  the  faithful  a  stop 
would  be  called  and  three  rousing  cheers  given  for  the  Whig, 
but  Avhen  a  Democrats'  habitat  Avas  reached  the  inmates  Avere 
greeted  Avith  three  fearful  groans. 

When  the  toAvn  had  been  properly  greeted  tlie  Avild  gang 
started  back  for  Tunnvater.  They  stopped  on  the  corner  of 
AA'hat  is  now  Fifteenth  and  Main  Streets  to  inform  Colonel 
Cock  of  the  result  of  the  election. 

Cock  had  just  returned  from  a  trip  east  of  the  mountains, 
where  he  had  been  buying  cattle.  He  had  not  alighted  fi'oin 
his  horse  Avhcn  the  boys  came  wp.    lie  Avas  a  very  excitabh'  man. 


218  THURSTON  COUNTY 

and  when  it  was  told  him  that  the  Whigs  had  won  out  he  simply 
went  wild.  Jumping  from  his  horse  in  the  middle  of  the  road 
he  threw  his  hat  down  and  stamped  it  into  the  mud. 

Just  as  his  frenzy  was  at  its  height,  the  same  couple  of 
fops  who  had  been  met  a  few  hours  previously  came  riding  up. 
One  of  them  sprang  from  the  horse  and  rushed  into  Cock's  arms. 
A  closer  inspection  showed  the  astonished  men  that  the  sup- 
posed dudes  were  I\Irs.  Cock  and  ]\Irs.  Rice  Tilley.  The  two 
young  women  had  thought  it  would  be  a  lark  to  dress  up  in 
men's  clothes  and  ride  out  to  meet  Mr.  Cock.  They  took  the 
wrong  road,  however,  and  missed  him,  and  were  returning 
home.    Explanations  and  apologies  were  in  order. 

"My  wife  died  in  1907,"  proceeded  Mr.  Mills,  ''after  we 
had  lived  together  54  years,  and  if  ever  a  man  lost  a  faithful, 
loving  companion  I  did  when  she  was  laid  away.  She  was  a 
good  wife  and  devoted  mother.  I  miss  her  every  day  of  my 
life  and  one  of  my  few  pleasures  is  going  to  her  last  resting 
place  and  looking  at  the  spot  I  shall  occupy  by  her  side.  I 
have  finished  my  work  and  only  wait  the  last  summons.  I  am 
proud  of  my  children,  none  of  whom  have  ever  caused  me 
humiliation  or  shame.  They  are  all  honorable  men  and  Avomen, 
respected  in  the  community  where  they  reside." 

The  children  born  to  ]\Ir.  and  Mrs.  Mills  were :  Sarah. 
afterM^ards  Sirs.  Sales,  of  Seattle ;  Kate,  Mrs.  Reynolds  of  Olym- 
pia;  James  and  John,  still  of  Tumwater;  Mary.  I\Irs.  Hunting- 
ton, of  The  Dalles,  Oregon ;  Lora,  afterwards  Mrs.  Greene  of 
this  city ;  Fannie,  Mrs.  IMeyers,  now  living  in  Oakville ;  and 
George  and  Jesse,  of  Olympia.  Mrs.  Reynolds  and  Mrs.  Greene 
are  no  longer  living. 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  21U 


W.  O.  THOMPSON 


One  of  the  most  remarkable  examples  of  the  sturdy- 
Pioneer,  is  W.  O.  Thompson,  who,  at  the  ripe  age  of  90,  still 
steps  forth  briskly,  with  eyes  bright  and  quick  and  with  a  keen 
intelligence  relates  his  experiences  in  crossing  the  Oregon  Trail 
in  1850  and  his  adventures  after  reaching  Thurston  County, 
with  a  clearness  and  conciseness  which  was  a  delight.  In 
"Black  Lake"  Thompson's  own  words: 

"I  was  born  in  Blairsville,  Pennsylvania,  in  182-1,  being 
of  Scotch  descent  on  my  father's  side.  My  mother  belonged 
to  the  aristocratic  family — the  Culbertsons.  My  people  were 
possessed  of  considerable  of  this  world's  means  and  sent  me 
to  a  private  school  taught  by  a  Catholic  priest,  who  was 
refused  orders  on  account  of  dissipated  habits.  One  day  he 
became  angry  with  me,  and  struck  me,  first  on  one  side  of 
my  head  and  then  the  other,  with  the  result  I  have  had  im- 
paired hearing  ever  since.  Later  I  was  sent  to  the  school 
taught  by  a  Scotch  Presbyterian  minister,  who  was  in  the  habit 
of  maintaining  discipline  by  the  use  of  a  cat-o-nine-tails. 

"Soon  after  this  the  first  public,  or  state  school,  was 
started,  presided  over  by  a  college-bred  teacher,  and  my  edu- 
cation progressed  satisfactorily. 

"When  I  was  ten  years  old,  I  won  a  prize  for  my  penman- 
ship, much  to  my  delight.  Having  reached  the  age  of  fourteen 
and  my  family  having  met  financial  reverses,  I  decided  to 
run  away  from  home  and  find  employment  on  a  farm.-  Later 
I  worked  my  way  to  Cincinnati,  where  I  found  work  in  a 
sash  and  blind  factory.  Here  I  boarded  with  a  Mr.  T.  B. 
Mason,  a  musician,  who  urged  me  to  allow  him  to  train  my 
voice  so  I  could  sing  with  the  church  choir.  I  had  always 
loved  music,  although  my  sister  always  made  fun  of  my  voice 
and  would  not  allow  me  to  join  in  the  music  at  home.  Mr. 
Mason  tested  my  voice  and  found  it  a  baritone,  so  I  was  not 
allowed  to  sing  in  the  choir. 


220  THURSTON  COUNTY 

"At  this  time  I  also  greatly  enjoyed  dancing. 

"When  about  24  years  of  age  I  found  myself  a  chronic 
invalid,  with  weak  lungs,  dyspepsia  and  rheumatism.  A 
doctor  told  me  to  try  roughing  it  as  the  only  possible  means 
of  restoring  my  health.  I  secured  work  at  once  as  a  deck 
hand  on  a  Mississippi  River  boat  and  found  my  health  began  to 
improve. 

"The  next  few  years  were  full  of  wandering,  even  thought 
of  enlisting  to  go  to  the  Mexican  war,  but  a  visit  to  a  camp  of 
volunteers  so  disgusted  me  that  I  abandoned  the  intention. 

"In  1850  I  heard  of  a  Mr.  E.  S.  Bonsell,  who  was  about 
to  start  West  over  the  Oregon  Trail,  and  wanted  a  driver  for 
one  of  his  trains,  which  position  I  secured. 

' '  Our  train  consisted  of  nine  wagons  and  we  started  across 
the  prairies  from  Fort  LeavenAvorth,  on  the  Caw  River,  early 
in  the  Spring.  We  struggled  through  deep  woods,  waded 
brooks,  ferried  our  wagons  over  rivers,  whenever  we  were  for- 
tunate enough  to  find  boats,  making  the  cattle  swim. 

"We  had  just  crossed  the  little  Blue  River  and  were 
travelling  over  the  bluffs  down  into  the  Platte  valley,  when 
suddenly  our  train  ran  into  a  band  of  about  150  Indians, 
painted  faces,  scanty  clothing,  and  carrying  Mexican  spears. 
I  made  frantic  signs  for  them  to  separate  and  let  our  train 
pass  through,  which  they  did,  but  soon  surrounded  our  little 
band.  I  at  once  planned  for  a  council  to  be  held  under  a  big 
tree,  close  at  hand,  they  to  send  their  chief,  and  we,  our  leader. 
While  arranging  this  I  had  the  drivers  form  the  wagons  in  a 
square,  with  the  tongues  ovitside.  Into  the  square  thus  formed, 
we  put  the  women  and  children. 

"In  the  excitement,  one  of  the  wagons  was  left  out  of  this 
square  and  the  Indians  began  crowding  around  it.  Elbowing 
my  way  through,  I  found  that  ]\Iiss  Nancy  Morton,  a  beautiful 
young  girl  of  our  party,  was  the  object  of  great  admiration 
on  the  part  of  the  chief  and  his  braves.  The  chief  made  signs 
that  he  wanted  to  buy  Nancy  for  his  wife,  and  that  if  we 
would  not  sell  her  he  would  take  her  by  force.  I  walked  up 
to  the  girl,  placed  my  hand  on  her  shoulder  and  made  signs 
that  she  belonged  to  me.  Telling  her  to  follow  me,  we  plunged 
into  our  extemporized  fort.  I  tell  you,  Nancy  was  a  badly 
frightened  girl. 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  221 

"At  the  council  the  chief  told  us  they  were  friendly  to  the 
white  but  were  out  after  their  enemies,  the  Pawnees.  All  they 
wanted  from  us  was  meat.  Uncle  Johnnie  had  a  l)eef  killed, 
which  in  a  short  time  they  had  eaten  raw.  I  assured  them 
that  many  Boston  men  were  coming  and  a  party  had  ridden 
upon  a  bluff  to  look  back  over  the  road.  Fortunately,  there 
was  a  dust  arising  from  another  train  of  emigrants,  so  they 
rode  on,  but  not  before  another  one  of  our  cows  had  been 
killed  by  one  of  the  war  party. 

"The  plan  of  work  which  was  invariably  carried  on  by 
the  emigrants  each  day  was :  In  the  early  morning  the  sentinel 
on  duty  roused  the  camp,  and  very  soon  every  tent  and  wagon 
is  pouring  forth  its  night  tenants,  and  slowly  kindling  smokes 
begin  to  rise  and  float  away  in  the  morning  air.  The  men 
start  out  to  round  up  the  cattle  and  soon  the  well-trained 
cattle  move  toward  the  camp.  By  seven  o'clock,  breakfast 
must  be  eaten,  the  wagon  loaded  and  the  teams  yoked,  all 
realizing  that  if  they  are  not  ready  they  will  be  obliged  to  fall 
behind  into  the  dusty  rear  for  the  day.  One  man  goes  ahead 
to  select  a  nooning  place,  where  grass  and  water  must  be 
found,  if  possible.  The  teams  are  not  unyoked  at  noon  but 
simply  turned  loose  from  the  wagon, and  then  the  noon  meal 
is  eaten.  At  one  o'clock  the  march  is  resumed  till  night,  Avhen 
again  everyone  is  busy  building  fires,  preparing  supper,  pitch- 
ing tents  and  making  ready  for  the  night.  The  watches  begin 
at  eight  o'clock  and  end  at  four  o'clock. 

"I  am  asked  if  we  had  happy  times  around  the  camp  fire 
at  night.  I  answer  'no.'  We  were  too  tired  and  worn  after 
the  day's  weary  march.     What  we  wanted  was  sleep. 

"One  day  we  saw  a  man  sitting  alone  besides  the  trail. 
He  gave  the  Masonic  sign  of  distress,  and  ]\Ir.  Bonsell  at  once 
invited  him  to  join  our  party.  His  name  was  O'Hare,  but  we 
never  knew  the  reason  of  his  being  left  besides  the  roadside. 

"Another  friend  I  made  on  this  trip  was  Wm.  Sherwood, 
disinherited  son  of  a  rich  Englishman,  who  had  chosen  a  fron- 
tier life  in  preference  to  one  of  luxury  in  England.  He  was 
very  musical  and  taught  me  'The  ^Mistletoe  Bough,'  and  'Bon- 
nie Sweet  Bessie.'  At  this  time  I  had  a  little  trouble  with 
IMr.  Bonsell  and  left  his  employ,  although  later,  when  we  were 
all  in  Olympia,  INIrs.  Bonsell   treated  me  like  a  son.     I  then 


222  THURSTON   COUNTY 

secured  a  position  of  driver  of  one  of  Uncle  Johnnie  Slocum's 
^vagons,  a  position  which  suited  me  exactly,  for  I  was  assigned 
to  drive  the  wagon  in  which  rode  that  charming  girl  INIiss 
Nancy  Slocum,  and  her  young  cousin,  Ruby  Slocum. 

"A  gruesome  sight,  when  we  reached  Fort  Laramie,  was 
an  Indian  grave  yard.  At  a  distance  they  looked  like  scaffolds, 
\vhile  on  the  ground  white  buffalo  skulls  were  arranged  in  a 
5ircle,  whether  as  a  decoration  or  some  mystic  sign,  I  never 
knew. 

''We  were  now  in  the  country  of  the  hostile  Indian  and 
we  men  had  to  keep  watch  with  great  vigilance.  We  were 
fortunate  in  not  losing  a  single  member  of  our  party  by  death 
during  the  long  journey,  but  we  passed  by  many  freshly-made 
graves,  the  sight  of  which  was  very  depressing  to  our  tired 
little  band. 

"Although  the  scenery  became  very  beautiful.  I  felt  as 
if  I  enjoyed  a  good  slice  of  corn  bread  and  bacon  more  than 
all  the  beauties  around  us. 

"Uncle  Johnnie  Slocum  proved  to  be  a  hard  task  master 
and  one  morning  he  most  unjustly  attacked  me  with  an  ox 
yoke.  I  drew  a  knife  to  defend  myself.  Of  course,  he  dis- 
charged me  on  the  spot,  but  sold  me  supplies  enough  to  last  me 
the  rest  of  the  trip.     I  paid  him  well  for  them,  however. 

"My  supplies  were  piled  out  beside  the  road,  and  the  train 
moved  on,  leaving  me  sitting  alone  beside  the  Oregon  trail, 
but  another  party  came  along  and  picked  me  up  the  same  day. 

"When  near  Fort  Hall  we  had  our  first  experience  with 
Indians  stampeding  our  cattle.  It  was  one  of  their  favorite 
tricks  to  give  the  emigrants  a  big  scare.  They  came  down 
the  hillside  with  painted  faces,  feathers  flying,  and  uttering 
most  terrible  war  whoops  while  pounding  on  their  skin  drums. 
Our  cattle  ran  away,  scattering  people  and  baggage  in  all 
directions.  Fortunately  no  one  was  hurt,  but  some  of  the 
wagons  were  broken,  so  we  had  to  go  back  to  the  fort  to  pick 
up  scraps  of  iron  to  mend  them  with. 

"Mr.  Landers,  one  of  our  party,  now  became  very  ill  and 
we  had  to  drive  very  slowly.  Our  cattle  were  almost  starving 
and  when  we  reached  Salmon  Falls,  on  Snake  River,  we  were 
obliged  to  make  the  most  dangerous  crossing  on  the  trip,  so 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  223 

we  could  reach  the  grassy  meadovrs,  which  we  could  see  in 
the  distance. 

"Fort  Boise  Avas  another  historic  spot.  It  was  huilt  in 
1834,  but  the  only  object  of  interest  I  can  recall  was  the  thous- 
ands of  jack  rabbits  running  about  in  every  direction. 

"As  we  descended  the  Blue  Mountains,  the  view  -was  sur- 
passingly grand.  Before  us  lay  the  great  valley  of  the  Co- 
lumbia, ninety'  miles  away  rose  the  loft}^  ranges  of  the  Cas- 
cade Mountains,  wath  the  towering  peaks  of  Mt.  Hood,  Mt 
Rainier  and  Mt.  Adams,  which  have  become  so  familiar  to 
me  during  my  sixty  years  of  life  in  the  Northw^est.  At  The 
Dalles  I  secured  employment  on  a  large  rowboat,  Avhich  was 
carrying  passengers  to  the  Cascades.  I  made  several  trips  up 
and  down  the  Columbia  River  and  then,  having  some  money, 
decided  to  go  on  to  Portland.  So  I  joined  a  party  of  young 
men  who  were  to  drive  their  fathers'  cattle  to  that  settlement. 
One  of  the  youngsters  was  Brad  Davis'  brother.  On  this  trip 
1  became  so  desperately  ill  that  I  was  obliged  to  lie  down  by 
the  roadside  and  let  the  rest  go  on. 

"An  Indian  came  riding  by  on  a  pony  and  I  oiifered  him 
every  cent  I  possessed  if  he  would  sell  the  pony,  but  not  till 
I  had  added  every  article  of  clothing  I  could  spare  from  my 
person  did  he  consent  to  the  bargain.  I  rode  the  pony  into 
Vancouver,  and  there  the  horse  was  claimed  by  a  man,  who 
said  it  had  been  stolen  from  him.  By  the  laws  of  Oregon  I 
had  to  give  the  horse  up  and  w^as  to  receive  one-half  the  cost 
of  the  animal.  The  man  promised  to  pay,  but  to  this  good  day 
is  still  owing  me  that  money. 

"I  determined  not  to  go  into  Portland  dressed  in  my 
shabby  clothes,  so  I  remained  in  Vancouver,  digging  potatoes 
for  $2  a  day  till  I  had  earned  forty  big  Mexican  dollars.  I 
then  bought  a  suit  of  clothes  and  went  on  to  Portland. 

"The  settlement  of  Portland  in  '52  was  a  big  mud  hole; 
no  sidewalks,  few  w^agon  roads,  and  often  one  w^ould  see  a 
wagon  mired  to  the  hub  in  the  sticky  mud.  I  spent  two  or 
three  days  working  in  the  Abrams  mill  and  one  of  the  men 
employed  there  was  young  William  Billings,  afterwards  for 
many  years  Sheriff  of  Thurston  County.  One  day  anothet' 
man  and  myself  were  set  at  work  cutting  down  one  of  the 
biggest  trees  I  had  ever  seen.     It  was  in  the  middle  of  one  ol* 


224  THURSTON  COUNTY 

the  main  streets.  I  never  worked  harder  in  my  life,  but  it 
took  us  the  whole  day  to  cut  down  that  tree.  We  Avere  paid 
oft:  and  discharged  that  first  night. 

"In  company  with  ]Mr.  O'Hare  and  Mr.  Sherwood,  I  then 
started  for  Puget  Sound.  We  built  a  flat-bottomed  boat  and 
poled  down  the  Columbia  to  tlie  Cowl'tz  River.  We  stopped 
at  'Hard  Bread's'  hotel.  It  was  run  by  a  man  who  fed  his 
customers  hard  tack  three  times  a  day. 

"Reaching  Cowlitz  Landing,  we  abandoned  our  boat  and 
tramped  the  remaining  fifty  miles  to  the  Sound.  The  trail, 
passed  near  where  Chehalis  now  stands.  We  were  entertained 
by  George  Bush,  who  had  squatted  on  a  claim  seven  miles  from 
Olympia  in  1845.  He  had  an  abundance  of  farm  produce  and 
was  exceedingly  generous  to  all  emigrants.  We  then  walked 
to  Tumwater,  where  an  Indian  agreed  to  paddle  us  to  Olympia, 
where  we  arrived  the  winter  of  1852. 

"I  had  then  completed  a  journey  over  the  Oregon  trail, 
which  was  about  2,000  miles,  beginning  at  Gardiner.  Kansas, 
and  ending  at  Olympia,  Washington.  I  had  passed  through 
the  country  now  called  Kansas,  Nebraska,  Wyoming,  Idaho, 
Oregon  and  Washington,  and  when  I  reached  the  shores  of 
Puget  Sound,  I  felt  this  country  to  be  the  El  Dorado  of  my 
dreams  and  I  have  been  contented  to  live  here  ever  since. 

"I  do  not  remember  that  there  was  a  white  woman  in 
Olympia  when  I  first  arrived,  but  there  were  two  living  in 
Newmarket — Tumwater — Mrs.  Crosby  and  Mrs.  Simmons.  It 
seemed  a  forlorn  place  and  I  never  was  so  homesick  in  my  life. 
I  went  back  to  Mr.  Bush,  but  he  laughed  at  me  and  set  me 
to  work  making  some  sash  and  door  frames  for  a  new  house 
he  w^as  about  to  build.  I  stayed  with  Mr.  Bush  two  or  three 
months.  We  sometimes  rode  over  to  Black  Lake  to  go  in 
swimming.  Mr.  Bush  made  me  presents  of  several  articles 
which  could  not  be  bought  at  that  time — a  whip  saw,  etc. 

"I  wanted  to  get  a  claim  on  Bush  Prairie,  but  the  good 
land  was  all  taken.  There  w^as  plenty  of  land  to  be  had  for 
the  taking  around  Olympia,  but  the  timber  was  so  thick  that  I 
was  afraid  of  it.  It  did  not  seem  as  if  a  man  would  live  long 
enough  to  ever  see  a  garden  grow,  so  I  heard  of  some  good 
prairie  land  out  at  Black  Lake.  I  had  been  much  pleased  with 
That   lake,   it  was  so  picturesque  and  looked,  to  me.  like  the 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  225 

bhape  of  a  violin  nestled  clown  in  the  green;  the  slender  place 
in  the  middle,  about  sixty  rods  wide,  seemed  as  beautiful  to 
me  as  a  lady's  picture. 

■'I  found  a  prairie  one-half  mile  long  and  eighty  to  100 
rods  wide,  bordered  with  oak  trees  and  a  little  fringe  of  fir 
around  the  lake.  A  beautiful  little  trout  stream  ran  across 
one  end  of  the  prairie  and  into  the  lake.  There  were  smelt  in 
ihe  creek  at  the  last  of  the  rainy  season.  Salmon  would  come  up 
the  creek  to  spawn  and  often,  when  I  would  go  down  to  get 
a  bucket  of  water,  I  would  knock  a  salmon  on  the  head  with 
my  ax,  for  my  dinner.  There  were  also  mountain  trout  in  the 
stream  and  the  lake  was  full  of  white  suckers.  The  Indians 
would  come  with  a  sieve  and  take  a  wagon-load  of  suckers 
away  at  a  time. 

''I  selected  a  site  for  my  cabin  and  went  to  Dr.  Tolmie's 
to  get  my  hoe,  blankets  and  frying  pan. 

"One  day  I  was  returning  from  a  trip  to  the  Hudson  Bay 
trading  post,  near  Steilacoom.  The  trail  crossed  the  Nesqually, 
near  McAllister  Creek,  and  some  Indians  were  living  there. 
They  refused  to  ferry  me  across,  although  I  asked  them  to 
do  so  in  English,  Chinook  and  sign  languages,  and  oifered 
them  fifty  cents,  while  the  usual  price  was  but  twenty-five 
cents,  but  they  paid  no  attention  to  me.  A  young  Tyee  Indian 
was  lying  on  the  ground.  I  shook  him  by  the  hair  of  his  head 
and  commanded  him  to  ferry  me  across  the  river,  which  he 
then  did.  The  Indians  then  went  up  to  McAllister  and  wanted 
to  know  if  I  was  a  military  officer  or  big  chief,  that  I  had 
dared  to  whip  their  Tyee.  They  must  have  been  disgusted 
when  McAllister  told  them  that  I  was  onl}'  a  cultus  Boston 
man. 

"I  cut  out  the  trail  between  Bush  Prairie  and  Black  Lake 
and  made  a  scow  to  ferry  people  and  cattle  across  the  lake 
from  the  Olympia  trail,  for  the  convenience  of  settlers  who 
were  going  to  Miami  Prairie,  Gate  City  and  Grand  Mound." 


226  THURSTON  COUNTY 


DR.  NATHANIEL  OSTRANDER 


"He  was  ever  strong  for  the  right,"  are  the  words  that 
come  most  readily  to  the  compiler's  pencil  when  an  attempt 
Avas  made  to  draw  a  pen  picture  of  that  veteran  war  horse 
in  the  medical  profession.  Dr.  Nathaniel  Ostrander. 

For  many  years,  while  living  on  his  homestead  on  the 
Cowlitz  River,  he  was  the  only  doctor  to  minister  to  the  distress 
of  the  people  for  many  miles.  His  daughters  can  still  re- 
member their  father  hurrying  out,  sometimes  in  the  dead  of 
night,  saddling  his  faithful  nag,  filling  his  saddle  bags  with 
drugs,  medicines,  and  frequently,  surgical  instruments, 
and  starting  on  a  trip  of  perhaps  twenty  or  even  fifty  miles, 
in  response  to  a  summons  for  medical  aid.  Many  of  the  men 
and  women  today  living  in  Cowlitz  County,  with  heads 
white  with  the  hoar  of  age,  were  ushered  into  this  world  by  the 
genial  doctor,  w^hose  proud  boast  it  was  that  no  mother  died 
while  under  his  care  when  professional  skill  was  possible  to 
save  the  lives  of  her  and  her  baby.  Brusk,  sometimes  gruff 
in  his  manners,  all  who  best  knew  this  grand  old  man,  knew 
his  heart  was  of  pure  gold,  his  moral  life  beyond  reproach 
and  his  family  relations  loving  and  pure,  a  staunch  friend, 
loyal  to  his  political  and  fraternal  affiliations.  Dr.  Ostrander 's 
memory  is  still  fondly  cherished  by  his  former  friends  and  he 
is  mourned  by  his  daughters  to  this  late  day. 

A  native  of  New  York,  Nathaniel  Ostrander  grew  to  man- 
hood in  that  state,  received  his  medical  education,  and  iu 
1836  was  united  in  marriage  to  Miss  Eliza  Jane  Yantis,  of 
Lexington,  Kentucky.  After  marriage,  the  Ostranders  lived 
in  Saline  County,  ^Missouri,  but  in  1852  decided  to  join  an  ox 
train  and  came  West,  as  man^'  from  their  neighborhood  were 
contemplating  such  a  move. 

The  emigrants  suffered  even  more  than  the  customary 
hardships  and  terrors  attendant  upon  the  trip  at  that  period. 
Weeks  before  the  train  arrived  at  The  Dalles,  black  measles 


o 

Ui 

H 

> 

O 
W 
?^ 

o 
> 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  227 

broke  out  among  the  emigrants  and  many  deaths  ensued.  The 
services  of  the  Doctor  were  in  constant  demand,  and  for  two 
or  three  weeks  there  was  but  little  rest  or  sleep  for  him.  When 
Snake  Kiver  was  reached,  in  Idaho,  one  of  the  Ostrander 
children,  Susan  Charlotte,  died,  and  was  buried  in  a  lonely 
grave  beside  this  river.  Here,  too,  Mrs.  Ostrander  gave  birth 
to  a  girl  baby.  At  the  time  of  the  baby's  arrival  the  mother 
and  her  four  daughters  were  deathly  sick  with  the  measles 
and  for  a  time  the  outcome  looked  very  doubtful. 

Arriving  at  The  Dalles,  the  Ostrander  family  took  boats 
for  the  voyage  down  the  Columbia  to  Portland.  Here  a  short 
stop  was  made,  but  the  children  were  still  weak  from  the  ex- 
periences on  the  plains,  and  malaria  was  so  prevalent,  that 
Dr.  Ostrander  decided  to  go  on  up  to  the  Cowlitz  country  and 
take  up  a  homestead. 

The  Doctor  and  his  brave  wife  at  once  set  to  work  to  carve 
a  home  from  the  wilderness  and  succeeded  so  well  that  Vv'ithin 
a  few  years  their  homestead  became  the  finest  and  most  valu- 
able in  that  section.  Owing  to  a  native  force  of  character 
and  natural  ability,  Dr.  Ostrander  soon  became  a  leader  in 
every  enterprise  among  the  pioneers.  He  was  the  first  Probate 
Judge  of  Cowlitz  County,  having  been  appointed  by  Governor 
I.  I.  Stevens,  soon  after  the  organization  of  Washington  Ter- 
ritory. Always  a  loyal  Democrat,  he  was  elected  to  the  Ter- 
ritorial Legislature  for  several  terms.  Dr.  Ostrander  was  a 
prominent  member  of  the  Odd  Fellows,  and  took  a  keen  in- 
terest in  this  fraternal  organization  to  the  day  of  his  death. 
The  town  and  river  of  Ostrander,  in  Cowlitz  County,  are  named 
in  honor  of  the  Doctor. 

In  ]872  the  Ostranders  decided  to  remove  to  Tumwater. 
Here  the  doctor  opened  a  drug  store  in  connection  with  the 
practise  of  his  profession,  and  here  the  family  lived  for  the 
ensuing  fifteen  years,  the  children  in  the  meantime,  growing 
up  and  receiving  their  education  in  the  schools  of  that  place. 

In  1887  the  family  selected  Olympia  as  their  home,  and 
the  Doctor  built  the  large  house  on  the  block  bounded  by 
Franklin  and  Adams,  Eighth  and  Ninth  streets,  which  became 
the  Ostrander  home  the  remaining  days  of  Doctor  and  ]Mi's. 
Ostrander. 

Mrs.  Ostraiulcr  was  the  first  to  go.  passing  from  this  life 


228  THURSTON  COUNTY 

on  February  22.  1899,  after  a  well  spent  life  of  68  years.  A 
faithful  wife,  loving  mother,  consistent  and  ardent  Christian 
and  true  friend,  all  who  knew  her  realized  that  a  good  woman 
was  gone  with  her  passing. 

Dr.  "Nat,"  as  he  Avas  lovingly  called  by  his  familiars, 
joined  his  wife  in  the  better  land  on  February  7,  1902. 

Ten  daughters  and  one  son  were  born  to  Dr.  and  Mrs. 
Ostrander :  Priscilla  Catherine,  now  Mrs.  Montague,  of  Forest 
Grove,  Oregon,  but  whose  first  husband  was  James  Redpath, 
and  whose  son  is  Dr.  N.  J.  Redpath  of  Olympia ;  J\Iary  Anne, 
now  ]Mrs.  Thomas  Roe,  of  Forest  Grove,  Oregon ;  Susan  Char- 
Totte,  the  little  girl  who  died  and  was  buried  on  the  plains; 
Sarah  Teresa,  widow  of  Charles  Catlin,  a  pioneer  of  Cowlitz 
County,  and  whom  the  town  of  Catlin  is  named  after.  Mrs. 
Catlin  now  makes  her  home  in  Portland,  Oregon.  iMargaret 
Jane,  now  Mrs.  M.  0 'Conner,  of  Olympia;  Maria  Evelyn,  who 
later  became  Mrs.  W.  W.  Work  of  Olympia.  but  who  died  in 
1888;  Isabella  May,  afterwards  Mrs.  E.  E.  Eastman,  of  Olym- 
pia ;  John  Yantis,  who  became  an  Alaska  capitalist,  but  who 
died  in  Olympia  in  the  Spring  of  1914;  Florence  Eliza,  after- 
wards Mrs.  Walter  Crosby,  of  Olympia;  Fannie  Lee.  after- 
wards Mrs.  C.  ]M.  Moore,  now  of  Oakland,  California,  and 
Minnie  Augusta,  who  died  in  infancy. 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  229 


THE  JAMES  FAMILY 


Samuel  James  and  his  wife,  Anna  Maria,  with  their  family 
of  eight  sturdy  sons  and  daughters,  were  the  original  settlers 
on  Grand  Mound  Prairie.  Of  English  birth,  the  couple  came 
to  America  with  their  sons.  Samuel,  William,  Thomas  and 
John  R.  The  first  home  in  the  land  of  their  adoption  was 
made  in  Wisconsin,  Mr.  and  ]\Irs.  James  living  in  that  state 
for  several  years,  and  here  were  born  to  them  their  daughters, 
Eliza  and  Mary,  and  their  sons,  Richard  Oregon  and  Allen. 
While  the  children  were  still  small  and  the  younger  ones  but 
little  more  than  babes,  IMr.  James  became  infected  with  the 
western  fever.  The  home  place  was  sold  and  the  purchase 
price  devoted  to  outfitting  for  the  perilous  journey  across  the 
plains  to  the  new  country  of  Oregon. 

The  incidents  of  that  journey  cannot  be  preserved  in  his- 
tory, for  the  father,  mother  and  children  who  were  old  enough 
to  remember  the  experiences,  are  all  gone,  but  the  surviving 
son,  John,  who  is  still  hale  and  clear-minded,  relates  that 
there  were  three  yoke  of  cattle  to  each  wagon  and  that  five 
months  were  passed  in  steady  travelling  before  the  promised 
land  was  reached. 

^Milwaukee,  Oregon,  was  the  first  stopping  place  of  the 
adventurers.  Here  Mr.  James  rented  a  farm  and  put  in  his 
crops.  But  this  vicinity  did  not  satisfy  them  and  they  de- 
( i(U'(l  that  Puget  Sound  was  the  land  of  golden  opportunities, 
so  after  spending  a  year  at  ]\Iilwaukee,  ]\Ir.  and  IMrs.  James 
decided  to  pull  stakes  and  away. 

The  trip  was  made  in  the  manner  customary  in  those 
days,  hiring  bateaus  from  the  Hudson  Bay  people,  up  the 
Willamette  and  Cowlitz  Rivers  to  Cowlitz  Landing.  The 
cattle  were  driven  along  the  Indian  trail  paralleling  the  I'iver. 
b,\-  the  three  brothers,  Samuel,  William  and  Thomas.  When 
the  CoAvlitz  Landing  was  reaclied.  tlu'  wagons  were  unloaded 


230  THURSTON  COUNTY 

from  the  bateaus,  fitted  up  and  loaded  with  the  furnishing-s  and 
equipment  of  the  James  family. 

Arriving  at  Grand  IMound  in  1852,  ]\Ir.  James  took  up  a 
donation  claim  of  320  acres  on  the  Chehalis  River,  built  a 
cabin  home  and  started  to  improve  what  afterAvards  became 
one  of  the  finest  farms  in  Thurston  County,  The  prairie  land 
was  broken  up  and  put  in  grain  fields.  Mr.  James  was  a  very 
progressive  pioneer  and  among  his  first  work  was  starting 
a  ten-acre  orchard,  the  little  trees  for  the  planting  being 
brought  with  almost  incredible  difficulties  from  Oregon.  The 
land  was  rich  and  the  farm  prospered  almost  from  the  be- 
ginning. As  there  were  no  other  settlers  on  the  prairie  for  a 
while,  Mr.  James  had  the  run  of  the  fine  ranges  for  his  cattle 
and  later  a  band  of  sheep,  which  he  possessed.  Soon  after 
locating,  he  bought  a  small  band  of  forty  sheep  from  James 
McAllister,  the  Nesqually  pioneer.  This  flock  increased  to  a 
band  of  500  head  and  was  a  source  of  considerable  profit  to 
the  James  family. 

It  was  a  good  three  days'  journey  from  the  Grand  Mound 
ranch  and  return,  to  Tumwater,  with  the  wagons  heavily 
loaded  with  grain  to  be  ground  into  flour.  This  town  and  the 
little  settlement  which  had  sprung  up  on  the  Sound,  called 
Smithfield — now  Olympia,  was  the  nearest  market. 

Mr.  John  James,  the  only  surviving  son  out  of  the  stalwart 
band,  relates  some  very  interesting  experiences  of  the  family 
in  the  troublesome  time  preceding  the  Indian  war,  one  of  the 
incidents,  which  is  here  given,  showing  that  the  natives  were 
sometimes  responsive  to  humane  treatment. 

"It  was  in  berry  picking  time  in  the  Summer  of  1853," 
said  Mr.  James,  "and  a  considerable  band  of  Indians  went  into 
camp  near  our  place,  to  gather  their  annual  supply  of  the  wild 
berries  which  grew  in  great  profusion  in  the  vicinity.  Soon 
after  their  arrival  the  chief  of  the  band,  several  members  of 
his  family,  and  a  number  of  the  tribe,  were  taken  down  with 
small  pox — the  scourge  of  the  frontier  in  those  days.  Now  it 
so  happened  that  father,  mother  and  one  of  my  brothers  were 
fmmune,  owing  to  their  having  recovered  from  the  dread  dis- 
ease at  an  earlier  period.  Besides  being  one  of  the  most  pro- 
gressive men,  father  was  also  one  of  the  kindest  hearted  I 
ever  knew.     Consequently  he,  with  the  assistance  of  mother 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  231 

and  brother  Thomas,  nursed  the  siek  Indians,  administering 
the  simple  remedies  which  he  had  knowledge  of,  and,  undoubt- 
edly saved  the  lives  of  many. 

"When  the  disease  had  run  its  course  and  all  were  well 
again,  the  chief  and  head  men  called  upon  father  and  entered 
into  a  solemn  treaty  Avith  him  that  all  claims  to  the  section 
of  land  on  which  was  the  James  homestead  were  forever  re- 
linquished by  the  Indians,  and  should  remain  in  the  undis- 
turbed possession  of  the  family  for  all  time,  as  far  as  the  In- 
dians were  concerned.  The  chief  further  made  a  treaty  of 
good  will  that  Mr.  James  and  his  family  would  ever  be  pro- 
tected by  the  Indians  in  the  event  of  trouble  arising  between 
them  and  the  settlers,  who  by  this  time  had  begun  to  arrive 
in  considerable  numbers. 

"This  good-will  treaty  was  all  that  prevented  Grand 
I\Iound  Prairie  from  being  selected  as  an  Indian  reservation 
a  few  years  later,  when  Governor  Stevens  made  the  allot- 
ments of  territory  to  the  natives,  instead  of  Black  River." 

In  the  Fall  of  1853  a  goodly  number  of  emigrants  came 
into  the  country,  having  arrived  over  the  terrible  Xatche/5 
Pass.  With  cattle  worn  out,  supplies  exhausted,  and  men  and 
women  fatigued  to  the  limit  of  human  endurance,  the  fine 
ranges,  bountiful  supply  of  wood,  land  easily  put  under  cul- 
tivation, springs  of  delicious  water,  the  prospect  was  alluring, 
so  they  decided  to  settle  on  Grand  Mound,  and  from  that  time 
on  there  was  no  lack  of  good  neighbors  for  the  pioneer  family. 

Among  the  early  settlers  of  ^\Ir.  John  James  w»s :  B.  F'. 
Yantis  and  family ;  Alexander  Yantis  and  family ;  James  and 
Charles  Biles;  J.  W.  Goodell  and  large  family;  Holden  Judson. 
Josephine  Axtel,  Patterson  Luark,  Abraham  Tilley,  Arthur 
Sergeant  and  sons,  while  on  ]\Iiami  Prairie  early  settlers  were : 
The  Bryans,  with  their  sons  and  daughters,  Esther.  ]\Iary. 
Preston  and  Edgar;  Camby  brothers,  four  in  num])er;  John 
Laws ;  the  Waddells.  with  their  children,  Robert  and  Susan ; 
the  Dodge  family,  consisting  of  father  and  mother  and  children 
Robert,  Bruce,  JMarion  and  Samuel.  Other  pioneers  of  the 
neighborhood  were  Lnwton  Case,  Wm.  ^Mills  and  family.  Henry 


232 


THURSTON   COUNTY 


Hale  and  family,  Paron  Qninn,  Elijah  Baker  and  wife,  Olive, 
with  their  boys,  James  and  William;  Jacob  Croll,  S.  H.  French, 
Andrew  MeCormack  and  family ;  L.  D.  Durgan  and  wife ; 
Augustus  Gangloff,  Thomas  and  William  Cooper,  Robert 
Barge,  and  the  Northcraft  brothers. 

The  most  of  these  people  made  their  headquarters  for 
over  a  year  at  Fort  Henness,  during  the  troublous  Indian 
outbreak. 

James  Biles  built  the  first  tannery  on  Scatter  Creek,  north 
of  the  Columbia  River.  L.  D.  Durgan  and  A.  Gangloff  started 
the  first  fruit  nursery ;  John  Guynnup,  a  Mexican  war  veteran, 
started  the  first  brick  kiln  at  Grand  Mound,  and  in  1858  a 
I\Ir.  Armstrong  built  the  first  sawmill  on  the  Chehalis  River, 
locating  a  little  below  the  present  town  of  Oakville. 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  233 


ALBERT  A.  PHILLIPS 


In  preseuting  a  brief  sketch  of  the  late  Albert  A.  Phillips, 
it  becomes  a  duty,  as  well  as  a  pleasure,  to  give  prominence 
to  the  well  known  reputation  lie  enjoyed  for  absolute  business 
integrity.  After  having  been  President  for  twenty  years  of 
the  First  National  Bank,  and  upon  the  failure  of  that  institu- 
tion being  appointed  receiver,  with  the  universal  consent  of 
the  stockholders,  is  in  itself  an  eloquent  testimonial  of  the 
confidence  in  and  regard  for  ]\Ir.  Phillips  by  his  business 
associates. 

Albert  A.  Phillips  was  born  in  a  small  town  in  Ohio,  in 
1839,  and  graduated  from  the  high  school  of  Sandusky,  when 
eighteen  years  of  age.  He  then  taught  school  for  a  few  years, 
but  at  the  age  of  21  bade  farewell  to  his  boyhood  friends 
and  home  and  started  AVest  over  the  old  Oregon  Trail. 

An  elder  brother,  E.  C.  Phillips,  had  preceded  him.  and 
was  located  on  Whidby  Island,  where  he  was  conducting  a 
general  merchandise  store.  The  young  man  clerked  in  this 
store  for  a  year  and  then,  hearing  of  rich  strikes  in  the  Idaho 
gold  fields,  decided  to  try  his  fortune  there.  Here  he  was 
unusually  successful,  and  soon  made  a  considerable  stake 
from  dealing  in  mining  properties.  Investing  his  modest 
fortune  in  Boise  City,  Idaho,  he  was,  within  a  few  months, 
completely  stranded  by  a  fire  which  destroyed  the  buildings 
in  which  he  had  invested.  He  then  returned  to  Whidby  Island, 
but  came  later  to  Olympia,  where  he  was  enrolling  clerk  with 
the  first  session  of  the  territorial  legislature.  Liking  the 
capital  of  the  new  Territory,  ]\Ir.  Phillips  decided  to  locate 
here,  his  first  employment  after  the  session  being  that  of  clerk 
in  Capt.  Percival's  store. 

"Within  a  few  years  he  was  elected  Auditor  and  Recorder 
of  Thurston  County,  and  enjoyed  the  distinction  of  being 
re-elected  for  seven  consecutive  two-year  terms. 

The   first   State   bank   in   the   Tci-rit'irv   was    fouiidcd    ])v 


234  THURSTON   COUNTY 

the  late  George  A.  Barnes,  and  when  Mr.  Phillips  was  finally 
succeeded  as  a  county  officer,  in  company  with  Judge  Hoyt, 
this  bank  was  purchased.  The  venture  was  so  successful  that 
the  partners,  Phillips  &  Hoyt,  started  the  First  National  Bank 
and  Phillips  was  elected  President,  continuing  in  this  position 
until,  owing  to  the  deflation  of  real  estate  values,  the  bank 
was  forced  to  close  its  doors.  ]\Ir.  Phillips  was  then  appointed 
receiver,  and  how  judiciously  and  wisely  he  closed  up  the  Af- 
fairs of  the  institution,  and  how  satisfied  were  the  investors 
and  depositors,  is  a  matter  of  financial  history. 

]\Ir.  Phillips  was  elected  Mayor  of  the  City  of  Olj'mpia  on 
the  Republican  ticket,  was  at  one  time  a  trustee  of  the  Asylum 
for  the  Insane  at  Steilaeoom,  and  was  appointed  a  regent  of  the 
St*te  University  by  Governor  Ferry.  After  closing  up  the 
affairs  of  the  First  National,  he  was  elected  County  Treasurer 
for  two  terms  and  was  then  appoiiited  Assistant  State  Bank 
Examiner  by  Governor  Meade,  which  position  he  was  filling 
at  the  time  of  his  death,  on  August  15,  1910. 

Albert  E.  Phillips  was  married  to  Miss  Ellen  Gillispie  in 
1869,  and  brought  his  bride  from  AVhidby  Island  to  Olympia 
to  make  their  home. 

Three  children  were  the  result  of  this  union,  Gertrude, 
afterAvards  Mrs.  Rankin ;  Elizabeth,  now  ]Mrs.  0.  ]\I.  ]\Iitchell 
of  Mt.  Claire,  New  Jersey,  and  Charles  K.  Gertrude  died 
several  years  ago.  Charles  lives  in  Seattle,  but  claims  Olympia 
as  his  home,  coming  here  to  vote  at  election  time. 

Mrs.  Phillips,  a  native  of  Wisconsin,  came  to  Whidby 
Island  with  her  parents,  in  1857  The  journey  to  the  West 
was  via  Panama,  and  was  soon  after  the  little  railroad  was 
built  across  the  Isthmus. 

Whidby  Island  at  that  time  Avas  considered  to  be  the 
garden  spot  of  Washington.  A  very  superior  class  of  people 
had  settled  there,  who  were  enjoying  unusual  prosperity  for 
so  new  a  section,  consequently  Mrs.  Phillips'  recollections  of 
the  islands  are  very  pleasant,  and  the  reminiscences  con- 
tributed by  that  lady  are  exceedingly  interesting. 

All  travel,  of  course,  was  by  water,  and  Indians  were 
generally  hired  to  convey  the  settlers  to  the  various  points,  in 
their  canoes.  For  a  moderate  charge,  the  natives  would  take 
a   party  even   as  far  as  Seattle.     Among  Mrs.   Phillips'  most 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  235 

I)leasant  memories  is  a  trip  to  that  eit.y,  taken  in  company 
with  her  brother-in-law  and  sister.  The  big  bucks  did  the 
paddling.  A  camp  was  made  at  night  on  the  beach,  and  the 
trip  was  comfortable  and  full  of  delight  to  the  young  people. 

Another  trip  taken  at  an  earlier  day,  which  j\Irs.  Phillips 
tells  about,  was  not  so  pleasant.  When  she  was  a  young  girl 
about  fourteen  years  of  age,  in  company  with  her  seventeen- 
year-old  sister,  Elizabeth,  they  started  for  a  day's  visit  with 
friends  in  Coupeville.  An  Indian  was  hired  to  take  them 
there  in  his  canoe,  the  fare  being  50  cents  for  the  round  trip. 
AVhen  they  were  opposite  a  lonely  place  on  the  beach,  the 
Indian  paddled  up  to  the  shore.  With  his  paddle  in  his  hand, 
springing  out  of  the  canoe,  he  pushed  the  girls  away  from 
the  shore,  and,  pulling  a  knife,  which  to  the  frightened  gk'ls 
looked  to  be  two  feet  long,  began  to  hack  his  paddle  to  pieces, 
jabbering  and  grimacing  all  the  while  in  a  perfectly  demoniacal 
manner.  The  girls  were  paralyzed  with  terror  and  at  a  loss 
what  to  do,  drifting  there  alone  in  a  canoe  vrithout  a  paddle 
or  means  of  landing.  At  this  time  another  Indian  paddled  up 
to  them  and  asked  them  the  cause  of  their  trouble.  Upon 
their  telling  him,  he  directed  them  to  look  under  the  mat  in 
the  bottom  of  their  canoe  and  find  another  paddle  and  reach 
the  shore,  which  they  did.  The  friendly  Indian  then  went 
up  to  the  one  who  had  caused  the  trouble,  and  sternly  repri- 
manded him.  and  commanded  him  to  get  back  in  the  canoe 
and  take  the  girls  on  to  Coupeville.  Indian  No.  1  quieted 
down,  resumed  the  journey  and  made  no  further  disturbance, 
then  nor  on  the  return  trip. 

At  one  time  E.  C.  Philli])s  owned  a  farm  on  Whidy  Island 
and  had  a  couple  of  men  and  an  Indian  clearing  some  land 
One  of  the  men  hung  his  coat  upon  a  stump,  while  he  worked. 
In  the  pocket  of  the  coat  was  $300  in  $20  gold  pieces.  When 
the  day's  work  was  over,  the  owner  of  the  coat  threw  it  over 
his  arm  and  went  to  supper.  Some  time  in  the  evening  he 
missed  his  money  and,  naturally,  accused  the  Indian,  who  had 
been  working  with  him,  of  taking  it.  The  Siwash  strenuously 
denied  the  theft.  But  there  was  no  mistake.  The  money  had 
certainly  been  in  the  man's  pocket.  None  but  the  Indian  saw 
the  coat  hanging  on  the  stump.  The  money  was  gone.  Of 
course  he  took  it.     Justice  was  swift  and  ini])('lu(>iis  in  tliose 


236  THURSTON   COUNTY 

(hi vs.  A  posse  of  "Boston"  men  soon  assembled.  Both  sides 
of  the  story  were  told,  and  without  delay  the  Indian  was  con- 
victed. But  a  conviction,  however  satisfying  to  the  loser,  did 
not  rejpay  him  for  his  vanished  dollars.  So  the  Boston  men 
look  Sir.  Indian  out,  stood  him  under  the  forked  limb  of  an 
immense  tree,  slipped  a  noose  in  the  end  of  a  rope  over  his 
head  and  began  to  tighten  it,  and  told  the  Indian  to  prepare 
to  meet  his  Tenanamus — God.  Stoically  stood  the  native, 
whose  only  words  had  been,  "Me  no  take."  It  looked  for  a 
while  as  if  the  suspect  would  be  counted  among  the  good 
Indians  within  a  few  moments.  But  cooler  judgment  pre- 
vailed, and  as  the  Siwash  affirmed  and  reaffirmed  his  "no 
take,"  it  was  decided  to  let  him  go.  The  noose  was  unfastened 
and  the  Indian  lost  no  time  in  fading  away. 

Years,  to  the  number  of  twenty-five,  passed  on — the  incident 
was  long  since  forgotten.  The  farm  on  which  the  money  dis- 
appeared had  passed  into  the  hands  of  a  brother  of  I\Irs. 
Phillips,  John  Gillispie.  One  day  in  plowing  up  some  new  land 
in  a  freshly  cleared  field,  he  caught  the  glitter  of  something 
])right.  Picking  up  the  object,  he  was  amazed  to  find  it  to 
be  a  $20  gold  piece.  Gillispie  then  remembered  the  story  of 
the  loss  of  the  $300  years  ago,  and  searched  till  he  found  the 
entire  amount.  It  had  fallen  from  the  man's  pocket  Avhen 
he  flung  it  over  his  arm.  and  had  lain  at  the  foot  of  a  stump  all 
these  vears. 


PIONEER   REMINISCENCES  237 


BENNETT  WILLSON  JOHNS 


The  distinction  of  having  been  the  youngest  soldier  in 
the  volunteer  company  enlisted  to  defend  Seattle  in  the  Indian 
war  of  1855-56,  belongs  to  the  subject  of  this  sketch,  Bennett 
Willson  Johns,  who,  with  his  father,  brothers  and  sisters. 
arrived  in  Seattle  in  1853.  Early  in  the  spring  of  that  year 
the  elder  Johns,  Bennett  Lewis,  with  his  w^ife,  Elizabeth  Tuttles 
Johns,  and  their  large  family  of  children,  started  from  their 
old  home  in  Tennessee,  for  the  West. 

When  the  emigrants  reached  Soda  Springs,  in  Idaho,  the 
wife  and  mother,  with  her  two  weeks'  old  babe,  were  taken 
down  with  mountain  fever,  and  died  after  a  few^  days'  illness. 
The  eldest  daughter,  Frances,  who  had  become  the  wife  of 
Alexander  Barnes  in  the  East,  but  who,  with  her  husband, 
was  also  among  the  emigrants,  was  also  stricken  with  the  same 
disease  and  followed  her  mother  within  a  few  days.  JMother 
and  daughter  sleep  side  by  side  in  lonely  graves  in  the 
wilderness. 

The  emigrants  resumed  their  Western  march  after  these 
bereavements,  sad  and  discouraged,  but  with  no  alternative 
but  to  push  onward. 

OM'ing  to  the  delays  from  sickness  and  fatigue  of  the 
cattle,  snow  began  to  fall  by  the  time  the  train  reached  the 
Cascades,  and  before  many  days'  travel  through  the  mountains 
were  accomplished,  it  became  necessary  to  abandon  the  wagons 
and  much  of  the  outfit,  and  take  pack  horses  with  which  to 
continue  their  journey.  Food  became  so  scarce  that  a 
messenger  was  dispatched  ahead  of  the  weary  emigrants  with 
a  prayer  for  assistance,  to  the  settlers  of  Seattle.  With  char- 
acteristic Western  generosity,  the  appeal  was  responded  to 
and  food  and  comforts  sent  back  along  the  trail  to  relieve 
the  distress  of  the  emigrants.  On  reaching  Puget  Sound,  the 
father  took  up  a  donation  claim  in  what  is  now  King  County, 


23S  THURSTON  COUNTY 

on  the  DiiAvamish  River,  nine  miles  from  Seattle,  where  he 
engaged  in  farming  and  stock  raising. 

After  the  family  had  lived  on  the  claim  tAvo  years,  the 
Indian  war  broke  out  and  the  elder  Johns  and  tAvo  sons  were 
among  the  first  volunteers,  and  were  engaged  in  the  battle  of 
1856   when  the  Indians   attacked   Seattle. 

Among  B.  W.  Johns'  most  vivid  remembrances,  was  one 
morning  while  the  family  were  at  breakfast  in  their  home  in 
the  suburbs  of  the  town,  where  they  had  moved  from  the 
homestead  at  the  time  of  the  massacre  on  AVhite  River,  the 
Indians  surrounded  the  house,  driving  the  father  and  children 
into  the  toAvn.  When  they  returned  they  found  the  house  had 
been  ransacked  by  the  Klootchman,  and  all  they  considered 
of  value  Avas  taken,  including  the  Avinter's  supply  of  flour. 

This  was  a  serious  matter.  The  father  and  boys  had  raised 
the  wheat  on  their  OAA^n  land,  the  father  soAving  in  the  morn- 
ing as  much  as  the  boys  could  dig  into  the  ground  and  cover 
during  the  rest  of  the  day.  Later  on  this  AA'heat  Avas  harvested 
in  the  primitive  way  of  the  time,  threshed  Avith  a  flail  and 
AA'innowed  in  the  wind.  Then  the  precious  grain  was  taken 
by  Mr.  Johns  and  Mr.  John  Collins,  in  a  flat  bottomed  scoav, 
to  TumAvater,  Avhere  it  AA^as  ground  into  flour. 

When  the  family  arrived  in  Washington — then  Oregon — 
Mr.  Bennett  W.  Johns  AA^as  but  a  mere  lad  of  fourteen,  but 
even  at  that  age  he  filled  a  man's  part  in  the  struggle  which 
every  pioneer  had  to  participate  in.  After  remaining  Avith  his 
father  on  the  claim  until  he  Avas  tAA^enty  years  of  age,  he  started 
out  in  life  for  himself.  When  the  Frazer  River  gold  excite- 
ment was  claiming  many  of  the  pioneers  of  the  infant  terri-- 
tory,  Mr.  Johns  joined  the  rush  and  mined  with  considerable 
success  on  Puget  Sound  Bar  on  the  Frazer.  Later  he  turned 
bis  energies  to  fur  trading,  with  much  financial  success. 

In  1869,  tired  of  a  roving  life,  the  young  man  came  to 
Olympia,  where  for  fourteen  years  he  Avas  engaged  in  the 
saAvmill  business  with  his  brother-in-laAv,  William  H.  Mitchell. 

In  1876,  Mr.  Johns  purchased  the  fine  farm  on  Bush 
Prairie  which,  although  he  sold  it  in  later  years,  is  still  knoAvn 
as  the  Johns  place.  He  also  acquired  considerable  other  valu- 
able property  in  Thurston  County  and  in  the  Cit.y  of  Olympia. 

In    1872   Mr.   Johns    enjoyed   his    greatest    piece    of   good 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  239 

liiek  in  his  successful  life — he  married  Miss  i\Iary  J.  Vertrees. 
One   daughter,   Ruth,   was   born  to  the   young  couple. 

]\Ir.  B.  W.  Johns  died  at  the  family  home  in  Olympia  on 
December  27,  1905. 

During  Mr.  Johns'  life  he  was  actively  associated  with 
the  Independent  Order  of  Odd  Fello■^^^,  having  been  Noble 
Grand  in  this  fraternal  organization,  and  was  also  a  member 
of  the  auxiliary — the  Rebekahs.  He  was  also  at  one  time 
]Master  Workman  of  the  Ancient  Order  of  United  Workmen. 
Both  I\Ir.  B.  W.  Johns  and  his  wife,  IMary  Vertrees,  have  been 
connected  with  the  Baptist  Church  since  the  days  of  their 
early  youth. 

iMary  Vertrees  Johns  M^as  the  daughter  of  Charles  IM.  and 
Mary  J.  Vertrees,  and  was  born  in  Pike  County,  Illinois. 
October  26,  1851.  On  February  25,  1872,  she  became  the  wife 
of  Bennett  Willson  Johns,  the  wedding  taking  place  in 
Olympia,  at  which  place  the  young  lady  was  a  new  arrival. 

At  one  time  Mrs.  Johns  owned  and  successfully  superin- 
tended a  book  bindery  in  Olympia.  She  was  also  first  matron 
of  Charleston  Cottage  for  young  ladies  at  Ottawa,  Kansas, 
University  in  1892  and  1893.  Later  Mrs.  Johns  was  assistant 
postmaster  in  Olympia  for  a  term  of  seven  years  beginning 
April  16,  1898.  This  lady,  while  feminine  and  womanly  in  the 
truest  sense  of  the  word,  is  outspoken  in  her  belief  that  women 
have  an  equal  right  with  men  in  framing  laws  for  the  govern- 
ment and  protection  of  the  country,  and  enjoys  the  distinction 
of  having  been  twice  elected  a  delegate  to  the  Republican 
County  Convention  in  the  '80s,  when  women  were  given  the 
right  to  vote,  and  once  elected  as  degelate  to  the  Territorial 
Convention. 

Besides  her  almost  life-long  affiliation  with  the  Baptist 
Church,  Mrs.  Johns  is  Past  Matron  of  the  Eastern  Star,  has 
been  three  times  president  of  the  Woman's  Club  of  Olympia, 
twice  Noble  Grand  of  the  Order  of  Rebekahs,  a  member  of 
the  Ladies'  Relief  Society  and  president  of  the  George  II. 
Thomas  Relief  Corps. 

Mrs.  Johns  has  enjoyed  extensive  travel,  not  only  through 
the  United  States,  but  I\Iexico  and  Canada,  and  in  later  years 
toured  the  European  countries. 

Since  the  death  of  her  husband  ]\Irs.  Johns  has  efficiently 


240. 


THURSTON   COUNTY 


inanaged  the  considerable  property  left  her.  The  only  child 
born  to  Mr.  and  JMrs.  Johns,  Ruth  V.,  now  Mrs.  A.  S.  Kerfoot, 
arrived  in  their  home  on  December  5,  1874,  and  now  makes 
her  home  in  Lemon  Grove,  California,  with  her  husband  and 
an  interesting  family  of  three  boys — Bennett  Johns,  George 
Franklin  and  Robert  Arthur. 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  241 


DR.  A.  H.  STEELE 


Dr.  Alden  Hatch  Steele  was  an  early  pioneer  of  Oregon, 
coming  to  that  State  in  1849  with  the  1st  Rifle  Regiment,  U.  S. 
A.,  crossing  the  plains  to  Vancouver. 

He  was  born  in  Oswego,  New  York,  the  youngest  of  three 
sons  of  Orlo  Steele  and  Fanny  Abbey.  The  oldest  brother. 
Elijah  Steele  was  a  prominent  lawyer  and  for  many  years  was 
Superior  Judge  in  Siskiyou  County,  California. 

The  other  brother,  William,  was  a  graduate  of  West  Point. 
and  served  in  both  the  Mexican  and  Civil  wars. 

Dr.  Steele  graduated  from  the  Lledical  Department  of 
the  University  of  New  York  in  1846.  At  the  time  he  reached 
Oregon  Territory,  Oregon  City  was  the  principal  town,  and  he 
settled  there,  marrying  Hannah  Hooper  Blackler  of  ]\Iarble- 
head,  Mass.,  who  came  to  Oregon  as  a  teacher  under  the  pro- 
tection of  Rev.  G.  H.  Atkinson,  a  Congregational  clergyman, 
who  had  been  to  the  Eastern  States  asking  for  volunteers  for 
this  work  in  the  new  country. 

Dr.  Steele  had  great  influence  with  the  Indians  and  set- 
tled many  of  their  disputes.  In  1857  he  was  physician  in 
charge  of  the  Grand  Rounde  Indian  Reservation  and  again  in 
1870  served  in  the  same  way  the  Indians  of  Nesqually,  Che- 
halis  and  Squaxon  Island  Reservations,  then  in  charge  of  Col. 
Samuel  Ross,  U.  S.  A.  During  the  Civil  War,  Dr.  Steele  was 
post  surgeon  at  Fort  Dalles  and  Fort  Stevens.  Oregon,  and 
Fort  Steilacoom,  Wash.  This  last  named  Post  was  where  the 
present  Insane  Asylum  is  now  situated. 

In  1869  the  tro()j)s  at  Fort  Steilacoom  were  ordered  to 
Alaska  and  Dr.  Steele,  feeling  he  had  done  his  share  of  frontier 
work,  resigned  from  the  army  and  took  up  his  professional 
work  in  Olympia,  where  he  built  a  home  at  the  southeast  cor- 
ner of  Franklin  and  Tcntli  Streets  and  lived  until  his  death,  in 
1902. 


242  THURSTON   COUNTY 

During  the  years  spent  in  Oregon  and  Washington  he 
held  many  places  of  trust  and  prominence  in  public  affairs, 
and  was  widely  known  as  a  leading  physician  and  surgeon  all 
through  his  life.  In  1852  Dr.  Steele  used  chloroform  in  ampu- 
tating a  limb,  the  first  used  in  surgery  north  of  San  Francisco. 

He  was  mayor  of  Oregon  City  three  terms  and  a  mem- 
ber of  the  city  council  eleven  years.  In  Olympia  he  was  an 
earnest  worker  for  all  public  improvements,  helping  to  start 
the  first  Gas  &  Power  Co.,  director  for  many  years  of  the  First 
National  Bank,  and  stockholder  in  the  railroad  to  Tenino,  and 
the  "Olympia"  Hotel,  built  by  the  citizens  by  hard  efforts 
t«o  help  keep  the  capital  on  the  old  historic  spot.  Dr.  Steele 
was  an  earnest  member  of  the  Episcopal  church,  and  was  one 
of  the  committee  that  sent  a  request  to  New  York  in  1853. 
asking  for  a  Bishop  for  the  Northwest.  This  request  was  an- 
swered by  the  election  of  Thomas  Feilding  Scott,  in  1854,  as 
first  Missionary  Bishop  for  the  Territory  of  Oregon,  a  terri- 
tory then  extending  over  the  present  State  of  Washington.  He 
was  also  a  member  of  the  first  convocation  called  by  Bishop 
Scott,  to  establish  the  church  in  this  new  field.  He  was  al- 
ways a  vestryman  of  St.  John's  Church,  Olympia,  and  junior 
warden  and  treasurer  for  twenty  years. 

Dr.  Steele  was  appointed  by  Gov.  Ferry  as  Regent  of  the 
University,  serving  two  terms.  Also  medical  examiner  of  the 
territorial  penitentiarj^  for  six  years,  medical  examiner  of  the 
New  York  Mutual  Life  Insurance  Company  for  twenty-five 
years,  and  for  several  other  life  insurance  companies.  He  was 
an  honorary  member  of  both  the  Oregon  and  Washington 
Medical  Societies. 

Dr.  Steele  died  at  his  home  in  Olympia,  June  29th.  1902, 
aged  79.  He  left  his  wife  and  one  daughter,  a  son  having  died 
many  years  before.  His  daughter,  Fanny  Orlo,  married  in 
1878  Russell  G.  O'Brien  of  Olympia,  who  came  to  Washington 
in  1870  with  Governor  Salomon,  as  Assistant  Collector  of 
Internal  Revenue. 

He  was  known  as  the  "Father  of  the  National  Guard  of 
Washington,"  organizing  the  first  company  of  the  present 
militia  in  Olympia  in  1882  and  serving  as  Adjutant  General  of 
the  State  for  twenty-five  years.     He  died  in  Pasadena.  Cali- 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES 


243 


fornia,  in  February,  1914.  General  and  ^Iyh.  O'Brien  had 
three  children,  a  daughter,  Florence  Blaekler,  died  in 
ISS'S;  a  son,  E.  Lloyd,  who  was  a  prominent  student  and 
athlete  at  the  State  University,  where  he  completed  his  course 
as  a  Civil  Engineer,  died  Nov.  26,  1912.  The  youngest  daugh- 
ter, Helen  Steele,  married  George  A.  Aetzel,  vice  president  oP 
the  Olympia  Door  Company,  and  resides  in  Olympia.  One 
son,  Charles  Alden,  was  born  in  1912  to  I\lr.  and  llrs.  Aetzc;!. 


244  THURSTON   COUNTY 


THOS.  M.  MACLEAY 


Thomas  Moore  Macleay  was  born  in  Willapool,  on  Lock 
Broom,  in  Ross  and  Cromarty  Shires,  Scotland.  His  family 
was  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  prominent  in  that  section  and 
when  he  was  a  child  his  family  moved  to  Richmond,  Canada. 
In  1861,  he  went  into  business  in  ]\Iontreal  and  during  the  Civil 
War  traveled  through  the  Eastern  States,  buying  -what  pro- 
duce he  could  and  shipping  to  his  partner.  Hearing  through 
his  brother  about  California  and  Oregon,  he  decided  to  sell 
out  and  go  there. 

He  then  become  interested  in  the  firm  of  Corbett  &  Mac- 
leay Co.,  of  Portland,  who  owned  several  large  vessels  and  did 
an  immense  business  all  over  the  Coast  and  in  the  Hawaiian 
Islands. 

He  later  visited  Puget  Sound  and  decided  to  cast  his  lot 
in  Olympia,  where  he  opened  a  wholesale  and  retail  grocery, 
below  Second  on  ]\Iain  street.  His  stock  was  so  heavy  it 
caused  the  floor  to  give  way  so  he  built  a  new  place  on  Main 
street,  between  Second  and  Third  streets.  His  large  heart  was 
open  to  every  new  comer  and  he  trusted  them  with  goods  for 
months  and  always  had  a  warm  corner  and  something  to  eat 
for  everyone. 

Traveling  in  those  daj^s  was  very  hard  and  was  done  most- 
ly by  row  boat  and  horseback.  He  always  had  the  good  of  the 
community  at  heart  and  was  very  enterprising.  With  Capt. 
J.  G.  Parker  and  Dr.  Alden  Steele,  he  built  the  first  steamer, 
"The  Messenger,"  that  made  daily  trips  between  Olympia  and 
Tacoma  and  Seattle.  It  was  considered  a  wild  and  unheard 
of  undertaking  in  those  days  and  was  a  great  event  when  the 
boat  was  launched  and  made  her  trial  trip  as  far  as  Doffe- 
meyers  Point, 

He  married  Annie  Frost,  the  youngest  sister  of  Robert 
Frost,  a  pioneer  of  the  fifties,  and  by  whom  he  had  five  chil- 


MR.  AND  MRvS.  THOMAS  MACLEAY 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES 


245 


dren.  Their  first  home  was  the  building  where  Governor 
Stevens  opened  the  first  Territorial  Legislature,  and  Avhere 
their  only  son,  Laclilau  ]Macleay,  now  a  prominent  business  man 
of  New  York,  was  born. 

Mr.  ]\Iacleay  died  in  1897  and  as  his  old  friend,  John  ]\Iiller 
]\Iurphy  wrote  of  him:  "His  word  was  as  good  as  a  bond,  and 
his  name  to  an  obligation  as  safe  as  the  paper  of  the  Bank  of 
England."  ]\Irs.  Maeleay,  as  a  young  girl,  was  one  of  a  group 
of  young  people  who  were  the  life  of  the  whole  community. 

In  the  early  seventies  they  organized  the  Olympia  Ama- 
teur Dramatic  Club,  whose  members  were  Billy  Neat,  Eobert 
Frost,  Capt.  Ballard,  (who  afterwards  founded  the  town  of 
Ballard),  Joe  Chilberg,  George  Blankenship,  Sam  Woodruff, 
James  Ferrj-  and  Professor  Roberts,  the  ladies  being  Nettie 
Horton,  Gyp  Shelton,  A#a  Woodruff,  fwho  is  now  Mrs.  Oliver 
Anderson,  the  noted  authoress),  Julia  Shelton  and  Annie 
Frost. 

They  put  on  these  amateur  plays  in  the  old  Town  Hall,  the 
proceeds  going  for  dift'erent  purposes — once  to  paint  the  hall 
and  again  to  build  a  house  for  a  family  who  had  been  burned 
out. 


246  THURSTON  COUNTY 


JUDGE  O.  B.  McFADDEN 


A  sketch  of  Thurston  County's  early  history  without  at 
least  a  mention  of  Judge  0.  B.  McFadden  and  his  family 
would,  indeed,  be  like  a  play  of  Hamlet  with  Hamlet  left  out. 

Born  in  Pennsylvania  of  a  sturdy  and  well-to-do  family. 
Judge  McFadden  spent  the  early  years  of  his  life  in  that  state. 
There  he  was  married  and  there  his  four  elder  children  were 
born.  In  1853  President  Franklin  Pierce  appointed  the  young 
lawyer,  who  even  then  was  beginning  to  attract  attention  by 
his  legal  attainments  and  tactful  statesmanship,  to  the  posi- 
tion of  Circuit  Judg'e  over  the  newly  organized  Territory  of 
Oregon.  Judge  McFadden  made  the  trip  to  his  new  field  of 
labor  by  water,  crossing  the  Isthmus  and  coming  on  up  to  San 
Francisco,  then  by  boat  up  the  Columbia  to  Vancouver,  which 
was  then  but  little  more  than  a  trading  post  established  by 
the  Hudson  Bay  people.  Court  was  held  in  the  Rogue  River 
country  and  the  Judge  would  make  his  visits  from  Vancouver 
always  on  horseback,  with  his  legal  books  and  documents 
packed  in  his  saddle  bags.  Soon  after  the  formation  of  Wash- 
ing Territory,  and  her  separation  from  Oregon,  Judge  Mc- 
Fadden was  appointed  Chief  Justice  to  succeed  Edward  Lan- 
der, who  was  the  first  Judge  to  enjoy  that  honor. 

The  year  before  his  eoming  to  Olympia,  Judge  McFadden 
had  returned  to  his  home  in  Pennsylvania  and  yielding  to  the 
entreaties  of  his  wife,  who  could  no  longer  bear  separation 
from  her  husband,  brought  his  family  back  with  him  upon  his 
return  to  Oregon.  Mr.  Frank  P.  McFadden,  one  of  the  sons, 
relates  their  experiences  during  their  first  few  weeks  in  Van- 
couver. The  mother  and  children  were  filled  with  dread  and 
apprehension  of  the  Indians,  and  before  coming  West  had  been 
told  by  their  friends  of  the  dire  fate  which  would  probably 
await  them  when  they  reached  the  wilds  of  Oregon.  One  day 
the  McFadden  boys,  while  playing  by  the  banks  of  the  river. 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  247 

espied  a  flotilla  of  apparently  empty  canoes  and  small  ])oats 
drifting  down  the  Columbia.  They  rushed  to  the  settlement, 
giving  the  alarm  that  the  Indians  were  coming.  Even  some 
of  the  men  who  hastened  to  the  river's  edge  to  see  the  cause 
of  the  boys'  scare  thought  they  Avere  correct,  for  the  long 
string  of  boats  were  certainly  approaching  and  it  was  thought 
that  in  the  bottom  of  each  canoe  was  lying  a  savage  buck  with 
his  gun  pointed  toward  them.  But  when  the  boats  came  near 
enough  for  thorough  investigation,  they  were  seen  to  be,  in- 
deed, empty,  and  it  afterwards  proved  the  craft  had  been  made 
a  few'  miles  up  the  river  and  were  being  brought  down  for 
sale  among  the  settlers. 

Another  scare  the  I\IeFaddens  experienced  was  one  dark 
night  after  they  had  all  retired,  the  mother  and  children  were 
aw^akened  by  the  most  terrible  yelling  and  screaming.  Sure 
now  that  the  Indians  had  come  and  were  murdering  everyone 
in  Vancouver;  they  cowered  in  their  beds  in  the  dark  wonder- 
ing what  moment  their  time  would  come.  Morning  broke, 
however,  and  they  were  surprised  to  find  themselves  still  alive. 
]Making  their  way  to  the  nearest  neighgbors  they  were  relieved 
to  learn  that  the  horrid  sounds  had  been  made  bj^  a  pack  of 
coyotes  which  had  fallen  upon  the  carcass  of  a  horse  lying  in 
the  brush  not  far  from  the  McFadden  home. 

In  1873  Judge  JMcFadden  was  elected  a  delegate  to  Con- 
gress on  the  Democratic  ticket,  defeating  Selucius  Garfielde 
on  the  Republican  ticket.  The  next  two  busy  years  w'ere  spent 
in  Washington,  D.  C.  Judge  ]\IcFadden  died  in  Olympia  in 
1875,  shortly  after  the  expiration  of  his  term  as  delegate.  The 
]\IcFadden  home,  on  a  point  of  land  overlooking  th^  Sound, 
was  for  years  one  of  the  beauty  spots  of  Olympia,  but  the 
march  of  progress  has  developed  business  establishments  in  the 
neighborhood  and  detracted  from  the  loveliness  of  the  view 
once  to  be  obtained  from  the  windows  of  what  was,  in  its  days, 
considered  a  mansion.  In  this  home  for  many  years  after  the 
death  of  her  husband  lived  IMrs.  JMcFadden,  who  finally,  in 
1904,  sank  to  rest.  The  children  of  Judge  and  Mrs.  McFadden 
are:  Mrs.  Mary  Miller,  of  Seattle;  0.  B.  McFadden,  Jr.,  Frank 
P.  and  J.  Caf  :\reFadden  of  Olympia,  K.  X.  McFadden  of 
Seward,  Alaska,  and  Mrs.  L.  P.  Ouelette,  of  Olympia. 


24g  THURSTON   COUNTY 


EDMOND  AND  CROWELL  H.  SYLVESTER 


The  pioneers  who  are  the  subjects  of  this  sketch  are  too 
well  known,  and  their  pioneer  experiences  have  been  so  oft 
related  that  the  compiler  can  give  but  little  more  than  a  repeti- 
tiui  of  facts  which  are  already  history.  Fishermen  bold  were 
these  brothers,  descended  from  a  long  line  of  fishermen,  who 
made  their  home  at  Deer  Isle,  Maine,  the  spirit  and  love  of 
danger  and  adventure  was  born  with  them.  In  1846,  the  elder 
brother,  Edmond,  came  to  Pnget  Sound,  locating  first  on  a 
claim  on  what  later  became  known  as  Chambers'  Prairie.  Syl- 
vester's nearest  neighbor  was  Nathan  Eaton,  the  first  settler 
on  this  prairie.  Sylvester  had  as  partner  a  man  named  Smith, 
who  selected  for  his  claim  the  half  section  of  ground  where 
Olympia  now  stands.  There  was  a  mutual  agreement  that  in 
the  event  of  the  death  of  either  of  the  partners,  the  survivor 
should  own  the  whole  of  both  claims. 

Sylvester  and  Smith,  even  then,  had  faith  that  a  town 
Avould  be  built  on  the  location ;  indeed,  the  partners  planned  to 
lay  out  a  town  site  themselves.  To  this  new  town  they  planned 
to  give  the  name  Smithter,  combining  their  names. 

In  1848  Smith,  who  was  subject  to  epilepsy,  was  found  dead 
in  his  boat,  in  which  he  was  intending  to  make  a  trip  to  attend 
the  Oregon  Legislature,  of  which  he  had  been  elected  a  mem- 
ber. By  the  agreement  Sylvester  inherited  Smith's  claim  and 
from  that  time  on  for  many  years  the  town  and  its  develop- 
ment became  his  chief  interest  in  life.  He  changed  the  name 
of  the  settlement  to  Olympia  and  his  generosity  in  bestowing 
tracts  of  land  to  the  city  to  be  used  for  public  purposes  is 
well  known.  The  beautiful  little  park,  now  known  as  Capital 
Square,  but  for  many  years  called  Sylvester  Park,  a  half  block 
of  land  west  of  the  Capitol  Building  for  the  location  of  Olym- 
pia's  first  school  house,  and  the  ten  acres  donated  to  the  State 
in  Capitol  Park  on  which  are  located  the  executive  mansion 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  249 

and  the  foundation  for  the  State  Capitol  ])niidings.  are  among 
his  magnificent  bequests. 

When  Edmond  had  lived  in  the  West  about  four  years  he 
sent  for  his  brother,  Crowel  H.  Sylvester,  to  join  him.  ]\Irs. 
Edmond  Sylvester  was  escorted  by  her  brother-in-law  in  her 
journey  from  the  old  home  to  join  her  husband. 

C.  H.  Sylvester,  upon  his  arrival  in  the  territory,  located 
upon  his  claim,  not  far  from  South  Bay.  He  was  the  pioneer 
settler  in  this  section  and  was  obliged  to  cut  the  trail  through 
the  dense  woods  to  reach  his  claim. 

The  first  hotel  this  city  could  boast  of  was  run  by  the 
Sylvester  Brothers,  a  two-room  shack,  cloth  lined,  the  wdiole 
building  being  but  16x24  feet  in  size,  with  bunks  for  the  ac- 
commodation of  guests. 

Edmund  Sylvester  was  one  of  the  owners  of  the  brig  Orbit, 
which  came  here  in  1849,  with  a  party  of  California  gold  seek- 
ers, Capt.  W.  H.  Dunham.  This  ship  was  the  first  owned  on 
Puget  Sound,  the  forerunner  of  the  vast  fleet  now  plying  these 
waters. 

Edmund  Sylvester  built  his  home  on  the  block  now  facing 
the  postoffice  building  on  ]\Iain  Street  and  for  many  years  it 
was  considered  the  finest  home  in  Y/ashington.  And  when  he 
ended  this  world's  activities  in  the  late  '80 's.  his  brother 
Crowell  Sylvester,  continued  to  live  on  his  valuable  farm  till 
the  time  of  his  death  in  the  early  jiart  of  this  century. 


250  THURSTON   COUNTY 


GENERAL  WILLIAM  WINLOCK  MILLER 


F'rom  teaching  school  in  a  remote  village  in  Illinois 
for  a  monthly  salary  of  $10  to  amassing  a  million  dollar  fortune, 
is  the  record  of  W.  W.  Miller,  Avhose  memory  is  prominent  in 
the  minds  of  the  remaining  pioneers  of  his  day. 

After  receiving  his  education  in  Illinois  and.  with 
patient  frugality  acquiring  enough  money  to  defray  his  ex- 
penses to  the  Far  West,  the  young  man  arrived  in  Olympia  in 
1853,  his  entire  fortune  comprising  only  a  few  hundred 
dollars.  With  the  business  sagacity  and  perspicuity  which  was 
i\Ir.  Miller's  main  characteristic,  he  at  once  began  to  invest  in 
Olympia  property,  buying  and  selling,  loaning  money  to  those 
less  fortunate  than  himself,  his  speculations  ever  attended  with 
signal  success.  Mr.  Miller,  however,  is  not  only  to  be  remem- 
In^red  as  a  successful  business  man,  but  also  a  patriot  and  brave 
soldier  as  well.  He  was  one  of  the  first  to  enlist  in  the  ranks 
of  volunteers  organized  for  the  defense  of  the  country  in  the 
Indian  Avar  of  1855-56,  rapidly  rising  from  the  ranks  until  he 
was  finally  made  Commissary  General  and  staff  officer  to  Gov- 
ernor I.  I.  Stevens,  and  this  executive  was  emphatic  in  affirm- 
ing that  much  of  the  success  in  quelling  the  Indian  disturb- 
ances was  due  to  the  able  and  efficient  men  who  composed  hi? 
staff. 

Mr.  Hazard  Stevens,  in  his  "Life  of  Governor  Stevens," 
gives  the  following  high  praise  to  General  W.  W.  Miller,  as 
having  imparted  "extraordinary  efficiency  to  the  quartermas- 
ters' and  commissary's  departments,  the  most  difficult  of  all 
These  departments,  generally  kept  distinct,  was  a  single  depart- 
ment in  the  service.  It  was  General  Miller  who  collected,  large- 
ly by  impressment,  organized  and  led  out  into  the  Indian  coun- 
try the  large  ox  train,  which  hauled  out  three  months'  supplies 
for  the  volunteers  in  the  beginning  of  the  campaign,  without 
which  it  could  not  have  been  waged.  He  was  distinguished  by 
remarkable  sound  sense  and  judgment  and  Governor  Stevens 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  251 

counseled  with  and  relied  upon  him  more  than  any  other.  And 
after  the  close  of  the  Indian  war  General  Miller  was  Governor 
Stevens'  closest  friend  in  the  territory." 

When  Governor  Stevens  issued  his  order  disbanding  the 
vohmteer  organization  General  ]\Iiller  took  steps  to  sell  at 
public  auction  the  animals,  equipment  and  supplies  at  hand 
and  settling  the  accounts.  The  sales  of  property  realized  $150,- 
000,  the  articles  sold  generally  bringing  more  than  the  original 
cost,  and  the  sum  realized  was  more  than  enough  to  defray  the 
entire  cost  of  the  expedition.  After  the  close  of  the  war  Gov- 
ernor Stevens  was  successful  in  having  the  territory  made  a 
separate  Indian  Superintendency  and  General  W.  W.  Miller 
was  appointed  Superintendent  General,  which  important  posi- 
tion he  filled  with  credit  to  himself  and  with  satisfaction  of  the 
Governor.  In  politics  General  Miller  was  an  unsv^^erving  Demo- 
crat and  took  an  active  part  in  the  Stevens'  campaign  when 
the  latter  was  seeking  re-election  as  a  Territorial  Delegate  to 
Congress.  Among  the  papers  preserved  by  Governor  Stevens 
was  a  letter  written  him  by  his  friend  General  Miller,  when 
the  Governor  was  in  "Washington,  D.  C.  which  reads:  "I 
believe  that  National  Democracy  can  verily  keep  possession  of 
the  territory.  Your  own  prospects  are  good.  Now  that  you 
have  won  a  National  fame,  you  will  always  be  looked  upon  as 
the  leading  man  in  the  Northwest,  and  you  cannot  be  beaten 
at  the  next  election." 

General  W.  W.  Miller  secured  as  his  bride  ]\Iiss  ]Mary  Mc- 
Fadden,  an  undisputed  belle  of  Olympia  and  two  handsome  sons 
were  born  to  them,  Winlock  and  Pendelton.  The  General's 
death  occurred  in  Olympia,  and  his  son,  Pendelton,  in  Seattle, 
both  being  interred  in  Masonic  cemetery. 

Mrs.  Miller  and  her  son,  Winlock  Miller,  now  make  their 
home  in  Seattle,  although  Mrs.  Miller  has  large  ]-)roperty  hold- 
ings still  in  Olympia.  Several  years  ago  Mrs.  IMillcr  presented 
U)  the  city  of  Olympia  the  valuable  block  of  land  on  which  is 
now  situated  the  Winlock  Miller  High  School. 


252  THURSTON   COUNTY 


CHRISTOPHER  COLUMBUS  SIMMONS 


To  see  and  talk  with  the  first  white  child  born  north  and 
Avest  of  the  Columbia  River  was  one  of  the  delightful  ex- 
periences of  the  compiler  upon  one  of  her  quests  for  remi- 
niscences of  old  timers. 

C.  C.  Simmons  and  his  wife  have  their  home  in  a  cozy 
nook  on  the  east  shore  of  Mud  Bay,  where  Mr.  Simmons  is  the 
oAvner  of  valuable  oyster  and  clam  beds.  Here  for  the  past 
dozen  years  this  worthy  couple  have  lived  in  quiet  content. 
Their  children  married  and  with  homes  of  their  own,  frequently 
come  to  visit  their  father  and  mother,  holding  fast  to  family 
ties,  and  keeping  in  touch  with  their  parents. 

The  coming  of  the  Simmons  family  to  the  West  has  been 
tcld  so  often  by  abler  historians  that  the  present  writer  feels 
that  a  brief  mention  of  these,  among  the  very  first  seMlers  in 
this  county,  will  suffice  here. 

Col.  Michael  T.  Simmons,  of  Irish  ancestry,  although  born 
in  Kentucky,  was  among  the  hardy  immigrants  who  dared  to 
venture  into  the  totally  unknown  wilderness  of  Pugct  Sound 
as  early  as  1844. 

Married  and  with  four  sons,  Simmons,  whose  indominable 
spirit  refused  to  be  disheartened  or  depressed,  joined  the  ox 
train  of  fortune  seekers,  among  whom  were  the  men  and  women 
who  were  to  lay  the  foundation  of  the  magnificent  develop- 
ment of  this  section  of  the  Puget  Sound  country.  The  fam- 
ilies who,  with  Simmons,  finally  settled  in  what  is  now  Thurs- 
ton County  were :  James  McAllister  and  his  wife,  Martha, 
their  children,  George,  America,  who  afterwards  became  ]\Irs. 
Thomas  Chambers ;  Martha,  afterwards  the  wife  of  Joseph 
Brunston,  and  John ;  David  Kindred  and  his  wife  Talitha,  and 
son,  John  K. ;  Gabriel  and  Mrs.  Keziah  B.  Johns,  their  sons, 
Lewis  and  Morris,  and  daughter  Elizabeth,  who  married  Jo- 
seph Broshears  in  1852,  and  the  Bush  family,  consisting  of 
George  and  Isabelle  J.,  father  and  mother,  William  Owen,  Jo- 
seph Talbot,  Reily  B.,  Henry  Sandford  and  Jackson  January. 

The  party  had  wintered  in  Vancouver  while  Simmons  and 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  253 

some  of  the  other  men  had  made  the  trip  up  the  Cowlitz  River 
to  ascertain  the  value  of  the  land,  quality  of  timher  and  pros- 
pect for  wresting  a  livelihood  from  the  wilds.  But  in  the  fall 
of  1845  they  all  brought  their  families  to  the  Sound.  Simmons 
located  his  claim  at  the  falls  of  the  Deschutes  River,  which  was 
then  known  by  the  Indians  as  "Tumchuck" — throbbing  water. 
The  Bush  family  took  up  land  on  the  edge  of  the  prairie, 
which  has  ever  since  been  called  by  their  name.  Kindred's 
claim  was  just  south  of  what  is  now  Olympia,  and  the  IMcAllis- 
ters  v.-ere  eventually  located  near  the  Nesqually  Eiver.  Sim- 
mons laid  out  the  town  of  New  Market,  now  TumvY-ater,  and 
in  the  fall  of  1846  built  the  first  grist  mill  north  of  the  Co- 
lumbia. This  historic  mill  was  roughh"  built  of  logs,  with  its 
mill  stones  made  from  flat  boulders  found  in  the  stream  whose 
waters  turned  the  rude  wheel.  From  this  coarse,  unbolted  flour, 
the  first  bread  from  home  grown  wheat  was  made,  and  this 
bread  was  considered  a  great  luxury  after  a  diet  of  dried  peas. 
and  boiled  wheat,  Avhich  had  formed  the  staple  diet  before  the 
completion  of  the  mill. 

Before  coming  to  Puget  Sound,  v/hile  the  Simmons  were 
wintering  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Columbia,  near  Y/ashougal, 
the  irrepressible  Christopher  Columbus  was  born.  This  histor^' 
is  now  continued  in  C.  C.  Simmons'  own  words. 

"Yes,  I  reckon  I  was  the  first  white  child  born  in  this 
neck  of  the  woods,  and  father  and  mother  seemed  to  think  be- 
cause I  enjoj^ed  this  distinction  I  must  have  discovered  the 
country,  so  they  called  me  Christopher  Columbus.  I  first  saw 
the  light  of  day  April  10,  1845,  and  my  birth  chamber  was  a 
sheep  pen  "vwth  a  canvas  stretched  over  the  roof  to  keep  part 
of  the  rain  from  mother  and  me.  There  were  eleven  children 
in  our  family — the  boys,  George  Washington,  David  C,  filar- 
ion  Francis  and  McDonald,  were  older  than  me  and  crossed 
the  plains  with  father  and  mother.  Then  I  came  next  and 
younger  than  me  were :  Benjamin  Franklin,  Charlotte,  filary. 
Kate,  Charles  Mason  and  dad's  namesake  filichael  T.  Of  these 
children  David  and  McDonald  are  dead,  Marion  lives  in  Puy- 
allup,  Benjamin  F.  in  Seattle,  Charlotte  is  ]\Irs.  Kuntz.  of 
Chehalis,  Mary  is  Mrs.  Holmes,  living  in  IMassaehusetts.  Kate 
married  a  man  named  Kantwell,  Charles  M.  lives  in  Puyallup 
and  i\Iichael  in  EUensburg. 


254  THURSTON  COUNTY 

"During  the  Indian  v.ar  we  were  all  forted  in  the  Collins 
blockhouse  where  is  now  Arcadia,  but  I  was  not  old  enough 
to  take  an  active  part  in  that  trouble.  I  have  always  been 
poor  in  this  world's  goods  and  am  glad  of  it.  There  is  the 
less  danger  of  being  robbed,  although  I  have  had  my  chances 
for  wealth  more  than  most. 

"One  time  when  I  was  working  for  my  uncle,  Dr.  May- 
nard,  who  was  one  of  the  first  settlers  of  King  County,  he 
made  me  a  present  of  a  deed  to  160  acres  of  what  is  now  West 
Seattle.  I  held  on  to  it  for  a  while  and  then  found  it  tot) 
troublesome  to  care  for  the  deed  and  to  keep  the  small  amount 
of  taxes  paid,  so  I  gave  it  back  to  Uncle  Maynard,  much  to 
his  disgust.  He  thought  I  must  have  very  little  sense  not  to 
hang  on  to  what  he  knew  would  be  very  valuable  at  some 
not  far-off  day. 

"Father  died  on  his  farm  in  Lewis  County  a  long  time 
ago  and  mother  lived  until  about  24  years  ago,  spending  her 
last  days  in  Shelton.  When  I  was  nineteen  years  of  age  I 
was  married  to  Asenath  Ann  Kennedy,  who  was  but  four- 
teen, and  has  been  my  true  and  faithful  wife  for  fifty  years 
of  wedded  happiness.  Of  course,  we  had  to  elope,  for  her 
parents  w^ould  not  give  consent  till  she  was  at  least  out  of 
school.  I  rowed,  one  dark  night,  from  the  Big  Skookum  to 
Steilacoom,  where  Ann  was  attending  school,  picked  her  up 
at  a  point  we  had  agreed  on  and  then  we  made  our  way  to 
Seattle. 

"Even  in  those  days  a  girl  had  to  be  at  least  eighteen 
before  she  could  marry  without  her  parents'  sanction.  Well. 
we  hardly  knew  what  to  do.  So  when  we  got  to  Seattle  we 
went  to  Uncle  Maynard  for  advice.  This  good  man  considered 
a  moment  and  then  said  to  Ann  'Take  off  your  shoes.'  She 
did  so  and  Dr.  Maynard  wrote  the  figures  18  on  two  slips 
of  paper  and  put  them  in  her  shoes.  Ann  caught  on  as  quick 
as  lightning.  A  few  minutes  later  we  stood  up  before  Rev. 
Daniel  Bagley,  who  asked  her  age.  'Why,  I'm  over  eighteen,' 
she  said  as  bland  as  milk,  and  so  we  W'Cre  married  and  have 
lived  happily  together. 

"On  August  25th,  1914,  we  celebrated  our  golden  wed- 
ding at  our  home  on  ]\Iud  Bay,  with  all  of  our  nine  children 
and  our  grandchildren  around  us." 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  255 


HARVEY  R,  WOODARD. 


The  account  given  by  the  pioneer  son  of  a  pioneer  fat]ier 
of  their  early  days  on  Puget  Sound  presents  a  photographic 
reproduction  of  the  scenes  and  experiences  which  are  now  but 
a  dream  of  by-gone  days.  Ah)nzo  B.  Woodard,  senior  repre- 
sentative of  one  of  Thurston  County's  best  known  pioneer  fam- 
ilies tells  the  following: 

"Father,  mother  and  we  three  boys,  Theodore,  Delbert 
and  your  humble  servant,  came  to  Oregon  in  the  early  fif- 
ties, reaching  The  Dalles  after  a  cruel,  hard  trip,  over  the  Ore- 
gon Trail. 

"Father's  cattle  were  so  worn  out  that  they  every  one 
died  of  starvation  and  exposure  early  in  the  winter.  He  had 
left  them  to  be  taken  care  of  at  The  Dalles,  but  the  Avinter 
Avas  unexpectedly  severe,  there  was  no  feed  to  be  bought  and 
the  snow  covered  the  ranges. 

"The  family  came  on  down  to  Vancouver  before  the  ex- 
treme cold  set  in,  and  father  tried  to  rent  a  house  for  us,  but 
found  that  to  be  impossible.  A  piece  of  ground  large  enough 
to  set  a  tent  upon  was  rented  for  $10  a  month,  so  my  parents 
decided  that  where  there  was  so  much  unoccupied  territory 
— you  might  say  all  of  what  is  now  both  Oregon  and  Wash- 
ington being  still  unsettled,  this  was  two  much  of  a  price  to 
pay.  Accordingly,  they  went  a  few  miles  out  of  Vancouver, 
and  father  built  a  little  one-room  affair  of  logs  in  which  we 
could  store  our  plunder  and  sleep.  All  that  winter  mother 
cooked  our  meals  on  an  open  fire  made  from  the  green  wood 
father  would  cut  from  the  forest.  As  the  snow  lay  twelve 
inches  deep  on  the  ground  we  all  had  a  pretty  uncomfortable 
time.  Up  to  February  the  Columbia  was  frozen  so  solidly  no 
boats  could  come  up  from  Portland,  but  as  Spring  came  on 
the  weather  moderated  and  the  sAvift  Avater  formed  an  open 
channel  in  the  river.  Father  fixed  up  some  canoes,  and  leav- 
ing mother  and  us  boys  at  Vancouver  started  for  Puget  Sound. 

"x\fter  many  perils  and  liardships  he  reached  Avhat  he 
ahvavs  referred  to  as  God's  CountrA'  and  located  a  claim  on 


256  THURSTON  COUNTY 

South  Bay.  When  the  weather  got  nice  and  warm  father 
sent  for  his  family  and  we  made  the  trip  by  water.  The  boat 
came  to  the  landing  place  in  connection  with  Fort  Nesqually 
and  there  father  met  ns  with  a  row  boat  and  took  us  to  what 
was  to  be  our  home  for  some  years. 

"I  was  but  a  lad,  and  had  never  seen  salt  water  before. 
I  was  filled  with  admiration  of  the  beautiful  picture  pre- 
sented by  South  Bay  with  the  dense  forest  coming"  down  to 
the  shores  of  the  bay  and  the  clear,  delighful  looking  water. 
We  camped  that  night  on  the  beach  and  in  the  morning  imag- 
ine my  dismay  when  I  looked  out  on  what  seemed  to  me  but 
a  sea  of  mud.  Father  reassured  me,  however,  and  told  me 
that  w^as  the  Avay  of  the  tide — always  on  the  ebb  and  flow — 
and  as  sure  as  it  went  so  surely  would  it  come  again.  We 
lived  here  on  South  Bay  for  the  next  two  or  three  years  in 
peace  and  were  beginning  to  feel  quite  prosperous.  Father, 
with  the  help  of  us  boys  had  cleared  and  planted  tAvelve  acres 
of  land.  We  had  a  yoke  of  oxen,  a  cow  and  some  pigs,  and 
father  had  built  a  very  comfortable  home. 

"In  1855,  just  as  we  began  to  reap  the  reward  of  our  hard 
work  and  previous  privations,  the  Indian  war  broke  out.  We  had 
been  hearing  ugly  rumors  for  some  time,  and  one  afternoon 
Owen  Bush  rode  up  to  our  place  and  told  us  about  the  killing 
of  McAllister  by  the  Indians.  Father  went  on  up  to  the  head 
of  the  bay  to  learn  all  he  could  about  whether  there  was  real 
danger  and  found  that  all  the  settlers  had  already  fled  to 
Olympia.  Hastening  back  home  he  hurried  us  all  into  a  row 
boat  and  started  for  town.  On  the  way  he  stopped  and  took 
]\Irs.  Knott  and  Mrs.  Frazier  in  our  boat. 

"When  we  got  up  opposite  Herbert  Jeals'  place,  we  were 
terrified  to  hear  firing  back  of  the  house.  Father  and  I  were 
pulling  the  oars  and  Theodore  was  steering  the  boat.  We 
struck  out  across  the  bay  for  the  west  side,  expecting  to  see 
Indian  war  canoes  take  after  us,  in  which  event  we  knew  we 
would  soon  be  overhauled,  for  our  boat  was  clumsy  and  over- 
loaded. When  we  got  oft'  the  Harstein  Island  point  one  of 
the  worst  wind  storms  came  up  I  have  ever  experienced.  I 
have  never  seen  the  waters  of  Puget  Sound  so  rough.  The 
waves  were  lashed  into  a  fury,  and  ran  so  high  that  our  cap- 
size  seemed   imminent.     ^Irs.   Frazier   was   the   worst   scared 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  257 

v.Oiiian  I  ever  saw.  She  lay  in  the  bottom  of  the  boat  moaning 
and  crying,  not  knowing  whether  she  was  to  meet  death  at 
the  hands  of  the  Indians  or  be  drowned  in  Puget  Sound.  But 
along  toward  morning  we  reached  Olympia  all  safe  and  sound, 
although  almost  exhausted.  The  next  day  father  and  I  Avent 
back  home  for  the  rest  of  our  things  and  we  lived  all  winter 
in  Turn  water. 

"Eight  here  I  want  to  say  that  after  my  experiences  of 
t':at  year,  no  talk  of  war  time  prices  can  scare  me.  Father  had 
t  )  pay  $3  a  bushel  for  potatoes,  $20  a  barrel  for  flour,  $8  a 
keg  for  syrup,  and  there  was  a  tradition  that  butter  was  a 
dollar  a  pound — but  about  that  I  cannot  say.  The  Woodards 
didn't  see  any  of  that  luxury  for  many  a  month.  Our  main 
living  was  potatoes,  clams,  oysters,  ducks  and  always  sal- 
mon. Until  father  built  his  grist  mill,  all  our  flour  came 
around  the  Horn  and  from  being  for  months  in  the  hold  of 
vessels  became  musty  and  all  but  unfit  to  eat.  I  have  seen 
mother  lift  squirming  worms  out  of  the  mildewed  stuff  she 
was  obliged  to  use  in  making  our  bread. 

"After  the  close  of  the  war  father  went  back  to  South 
Union  and  later  overhauled  and  rebuilt  a  mill  on  the  Sequal- 
ochen,  but  I  spent  my  winters  in  town  attending  school. 
Among  the  teachers  I  remember  in  those  days  were  Rev. 
Dillon  and  Mrs.  Doyle,  both  fine  instructors,  leading  their 
pupils  along  learning's  path  with  a  kind  firmness  that  has 
liad  its  effect  all  through  my  life.  Father  in  later  years 
bought  the  old  Woodard  home  on  the  West  Side,  where  he 
died  in  1872.  Mother  lived  over  twenty  years  after  father's 
death. 

"When  I  attained  my  majority  I  spent  some  years  in 
Oregon — was  there  during  the  Civil  War,  and  while  here  had 
my  greatest  piece  of  good  luck.  While  living  in  Lafayette. 
T  met  and  was  married  to  my  wife — formerly  Miss  Wallace. 
Later  we  returned  to  Olympia,  where  for  years  we  have  led 
a  peaceful,  uneventful  life.  We  have  had  two  daughters  and 
one  son  born  to  us:  Elma  Amelia,  now  Mrs.  Crawford,  of 
Tacoma  and  Ada  Salome,  the  wife  of  Captain  George  S.  E. 
Krem.    Our  son  Van  Eugene  died  a  few  years  ago." 


258  THURSTON   COUNTY 


STEPHEN  D.  REINHART 


"You  must  be  sure  to  give  prominent  mention  to  the 
Reinhart  family,  and  Mrs.  Reinhart's  father,  William  Cock," 
was  frequently  told  the  compiler  when  interviewing  the  few 
living  men  and  women  whose  memory  carried  them  back  to 
their  associates  of  sixty-five  years  ago. 

Stephen  D.  Reinhart  was  of  German  ancestry,  but  was 
himself  a  native  of  Kentucky.  He  was  educated  in  the  State 
of  Indiana  and  there  was  married  to  Miss  Sarah  Cock.  In 
1852,  when  the  tide  of  immigration  was  strong  towards  the 
land  of  the  setting  sun,  the  young  Reinharts,  with  their  babj^ 
boy,  William,  started  for  the  long  and  dangerous  trip  over 
the  old  Oregon  Trail.  The  journey  was  attended  with  the 
almost  incredible  hardships  and  dangers  which  the  immi- 
grants were  called  upon  to  endure.  The  oxen  became  ex- 
hausted when  the  alkali  country  was  reached,  and  finally 
Mr.  Reinhart  was  obliged  to  separate  the  hind  wheels  of  his 
wagon  from  the  front  ones,  fit  a  rude  tongue  to  these  and 
with  this  miserable  make-shift  proceed  on  the  journey  to  The 
Dalles. 

Rafting  his  family  and  few  worldly  possessions  to  the 
Cascades,  ]\Ir.  Reinhart  was  here  fortunate  enough  to  secure 
the  contract  for  loading  a  sloop  bound  for  Portland.  This 
put  the  adventurer  in  funds  again  and  provided  a  means  of 
passage  down  the  Columbia  to  Portland.  From  this  point  the 
Reinharts  took  up  the  line  of  march  for  the  Puget  Sound 
country.  Reaching  Grand  Mound  Prairie  the  young  man  took 
up  a  donation  claim  and  started  a  little  home.  Prosperity  had 
just  begun  to  smile  upon  the  family,  when  the  Indian  war 
broke  out  and  they  were  obliged  to  abandon  their  claim  and 
seek  shelter  in  the  nearest  blockhouse.  Sir.  Reinhart  has- 
tened to  tender  his  services  toward  the  defense  of  the  country 
by  enlisting  in  the  rank  of  Washington  volunteers. 

After  the  close  of  the  war  the  family  removed  to  Olym- 
pia,  Avhere  Mr.  Reinhart  engaged  in  mill  building,  he  having 
learned  the  trade  of  millwright  in  his  vouth.     He  also  at  one 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  259 

time  ran  a  saw  mill.  By  this  time  he  had  acquired  consider- 
able property  and  built  for  his  home  the  house  now  owned  by 
!Mrs.  Tew,  on  the  corner  of  ]\Iain  and  Fifteenth  Streets.  In 
1862  Mrs.  Reinhart's  health  began  to  fail  and  they  went  to 
Grande  Rounde,  Oregon,  in  the  hopes  of  her  improvement. 
This  move  not  proving  of  benefit,  they  proceeded  to  Napa, 
California.  Mrs.  Reinhart  died  a  few  years  later  at  Calistoga 
Springs,  Napa  County.  Mr.  Reinhart  then  brought  his  chil- 
dren back  to  Oregon,  where  he  was  made  Indian  agent  at  the 
Grande  Rounde  reservation.  Later,  about  the  year  1872,  Mr. 
Reinhart  went  to  "Whatcom  County,  where  he  took  up  a  claim 
of  160  acres  of  fine  agricultural  land  which  he  developed  with 
the  passing  of  years  and  with  characteristic  energy,  into  one 
of  the  most  valuable  farms  in  that  region.  ]\Ir.  Reinhart  was 
a  member  of  the  Territorial  Legislature  for  two  terms,  Jus- 
tice of  the  Peace  several  terms,  and  at  the  time  of  his  death  in 
1901.  was  enjoying  an  unexpired  term  as  State  Senator. 

Besides  the  son  William,  who  was  born  in  the  old  home 
in  Indiana,  Senator  and  ]\Irs.  Reinhart  were  the  parents  of 
four  sons  and  daughters  born  after  reaching  the  Coast.  Of 
these  Captain  Calif  S.  Reinhart,  Clerk  of  the  Supreme  Court, 
until  recently  president  of  the  Olympia  National  Bank  and 
Captain  of  Co.  A.,  First  National  Guard  of  Washington,  three 
times  mayor  of  Olympia,  his  native  city,  and  a  sister,  Mrs. 
Carrie  Chandler,  whose  home  is  in  Bellingham  survive.  Wil- 
liam at  the  age  of  23  died  while  returning  from  a  sea  voyage 
in  Callao,  and  was  buried  from  the  steamship  Great  Republic. 

]Mrs.  Reinhart's  father  was  the  Col.  William  Cock,  Avho 
is  well  remembered  among  Olympia  pioneers.  He  was  first 
Territoral  Treasurer,  serving  in  that  capacity  from  1854  to 
1861  and  for  many  years  prominently  connected  with  the 
business  and  social  life  of  Olympia. 


260  ■     '  THUR3T0X  COUNTY 


A  TRIP  TO  STEILACOOM 

To  the  lover  of  Nature  and  seeker  after  historic  spots  there 
is  no  section  more  alluring  than  that  traversed  by  the  old 
militarj"  road  between  Olympia  and  the  old  town  of  Steila- 
coom,  thence  on  a  short  two  miles  to  what  was  formerly  the 
location  of  Fort  Steilacoom,  but  now  the  site  of  the  modern 
Washington  Hospital  for  Insane. 

Over  roads  delightfully  smooth  the  auto  glides  along  to 
the  top  of  the  Nesqually  hill.  The  road  now  becomes  beautiful 
and  picturesque  with  the  fern-decked  bank  on  the  one  side 
and  the  ravine  with  its  big  trees  on  the  other.  Winding  and 
curving  the  road  is  still  a  safe  enoug'h  one,  owing  to  the  wide 
turnouts  at  each  curve.  On  down  through  the  rich  Nesqually 
bottom,  over  the  long  bridge  with  the  river,  clay  white,  rushing 
below.  The  ascent  of  the  hill  on  the  Pierce  County  side  is 
gradual  and  easily  accomplished  and  when  the  summit  is 
reached,  what  a  panorama  is  spread  out.  Surely  in  all  Wash- 
ington there  is  no  nobler  view  than  this.  The  broad  green 
pastures,  surrounded  with  a  fringe  of  tall  evergreens  and  the 
blue,  sparkling  waters  of  Old  Puget  Sound  gleaming  in  the 
distance. 

A  few  miles  on  and  the  site  of  old  Fort  Nesqually  is 
reached.  Although  but  one  of  the  original  buildings  remains 
and  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  are  the  squalid  huts,  for- 
merly used  by  the  employes  of  a  powder  company,  this  spot 
is  full  of  interest  to  the  historian. 

Fort  Nesqually  was  established  in  1833  by  Archibald  Mc- 
Donald, for  years  a  noted  factor  and  trader  of  the  Hudson 
Bay  Company.  For  years  the  Indians  came  in  large  bands  to 
this  fort  from  their  camps  on  Admiralty  Inlet  and  Puget 
Sound,  as  well  as  from  far  along  the  Coast,  with  their  furs 
and  skins  to  barter  with  the  Boston  men.  All  the  buildings 
were  situated  on  or  near  the  banks  of  Sequalachew  Creek  and 
wore    of    logs,    the    principal    one    being    fifty-five    feet    long. 


PIONEER   REMINISCENCES  261 

twenty  feet  wide  and  twelve  feet  Inirh.  The  roofs  Avere  of 
cedar  bark  held  in  place  by  poles  and  the  floors  were  of 
1  imcheon.  An  immense  fireplace  with  the  chimney  built 
of  sticks  plastered  with  clay,  warmed  the  large  main  room. 

At  one  time,  well  within  the  memory  of  several  Thurston 
C<mnty  pioneers,  Fort  Steilacoom  was  presided  over  by  Dr. 
AVilliam  Fraser  Tolmie.  chief  factor  for  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany. 

Reaching  Steilacoom  the  beholder  is  enchanted  with  the 
]■  veliness  of  the  view  of  the  Sound  from  the  town,  as  it 
t.tretches  out  wide  and  beautiful,  with  IMcNeils  and  other 
f.maller  islanr^.s  in  the  distance.  The  bell  crowned  stone 
monument,  marking  the  site  of  the  first  Protestant  Church 
built  north  of  the  Columbia  River,  and  the  quaint  little  Catholic 
Church,  are  the  interesting  points  in  this  town  of  by-gone  day,^. 
The  tourist  Avill  loiter  an  hour  in  the  quaint  old  town  and 
then  on  to  what  was  Fort  Steilacoom. 

The  hugh  pile  of  bricks  with  its  iron  grated  wards  filled 
with  gibbering,  gesticulating  maniacs,  the  squads  of  the  more 
orderly  inmates  in  charge  of  their  attendants  working  and 
''esting  around  the  beautiful  grounds  is.  perhaps,  a  sight  to 
interest  the  curious,  but  one  which  fills  the  average  beholder 
■"vith  sadness.  Here  the  cottages  which  Avere  ol^^icers'  quarters 
in  the  days  of  military  occupancy  of  the  place  are  now  used 
as  homes  for  the  assistant  physicians,  engineer  and  accountants, 
employed  in  the  asylum.  In  a  field  adjoining  are  still  to  be 
seen  the  "Z"  shaped  earth  works  throAvn  up  by  the  soldiers  of 
Captain  Pickett's  regiment.  For  over  twenty-five  years  one  of 
the  attendants  in  the  men's  ward  of  the  asylum  has  been  INIr. 
Fred  Guj^ot,  formerly  an  Olympia  boy,  son  of  Julian  Guyot, 
the  pioneer  jeweler  of  Olympia.  Fred  was  born  in  Calaveras 
County,  California,  in  1851.  His  father,  a  native  of  Switzer- 
land had,  with  his  young  wife,  been  among  the  gold  seekers  of 
'49.  On  July  4,  1859.  shortly  after  the  death  of  Fred's  mother, 
the  elder  Guyot  and  his  little  son  left  San  Francisco  for  Puget 
Sound.  The  trip  was  made  on  the  steamship  Northerner  and 
was  the  last  vo.yage  of  this  vessel,  as  upon  her  return  to  San 
Francisco  she  was  wrecked  off  the  Oregon  coast. 

When  the  Guyots  arrived  at  Olympia  the  steamer  landed 
at  the  historic  Brown's  AVIiarf  on  the  West  Side.     Father  an;l 


H^'l  THURSTON  COUNTY 

son,  with  other  passengers,  were  brought  to  the  town  in  a  row 
boat,  which  was  manned  and  operated  for  hire  by  the  brothers 
^Monzo  and  Theodore  Woodard.  Lentil  a  permanent  boarding 
place  could  be  found  the  new  arrivals  stayed  at  the  Pacific 
Hotel,  which  was  then  managed  by  ^Irs.  Warbass.  The  elder 
Guyot  engaged  in  the  jewelry  and  watch  repairing  business. 
Watches  were  sent  him  from  all  over  the  western  part  of 
the  territory  to  be  made  as  good  as  new  again. 

j\Ir.  Julian  Guyot  died  in  Olympia  in  1877.  The  younger 
Guyot  attended  the  public  school  of  the  place,  and  remembers 
John  and  Robert  Yantis,  Billy  Clark, Bernham  Huntington,  Will 
Eeinhart,  Ben  Cock,  Frank  Hicks,  Lizzie  Warbass,  and  Fannie 
Yantis,  as  among  his  schoolmates.  His  first  Sunday  School 
teacher  was  Mrs.  George  F.  Whitworth.  Mr.  Guyot  was  ap- 
pointed attendant  at  the  asylum  under  Dr.  Waughop,  in  1889. 
The  visitor  to  Steilacoom  strolling  through  the  abandoned 
cemetery  in  the  rear  of  the  huge  pile  of  buildings  and  within 
the  asylum  enclosure  finds  plenty  of  food  for  reflection  upon 
the  unstability  of  human  greatness.  Here,  underneath  a  mossy 
slab  of  marble  with  the  lettering  all  but  defaced,  the  wild 
grasses  growing  in  a  tangle  within  the  little  enclosure  made 
of  decaying  pickets  rest  the  remains  of  the  fourth  governor 
of  the  territory,  Col.  William  H.  Wallace. 

Within  a  few  feet  from  the  grave  of  this  honored  man 
is  standing  a  wooden  slab  bearing  this  inscription:  "In  mem- 
ory of  Charles  ^McDonald,  aged  36  years.  Died  at  the  hands 
of  violence,   1870." 

Mr.  Guyot 's  account  of  the  tragic  circumstances  of  ]Mc- 
Donald's  death  is  given  in  his  own  words:  "Charlie  ]Mc- 
Donald  and  his  partner,  named  Gibson,  had  staked  out  a  claim 
not  far  from  Fort  Steilacoom,  which  they  had  worked  and 
improved  until  they  had  developed  a  valuable  property.  i\Ic- 
Donald  was  a  remarkably  handsome  young  man  with  black 
flashing  eyes,  black  hair,  worn,  as  was  the  fashion  of  the  time, 
well  down  over  his  coat  collar,  erect  figure  and  gallant  bear- 
ing. He  was  a  fine  figure  of  a  man  as  he  rode  into  town 
mounted  on  his  spirited  horse. 

Now,  infesting  the  prairie  and  surrounding  section  held 
forth  as  lawless  and  vicious  a  band  of  men  as  could  be  found 
on  the  frontier.     The  leader  of  these  leagued  rogues  had  cast 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  2fi3 

covetous  eyes  upon  ^McDonald's  and  Gibson's  claim,  and  as 
v.-as  so  often  done  in  those  wild  days  took  steps  to  secure  the 
land  by  preferring  the  charge  that  the  partners  were  what 
was  known  in  the  parlance  of  the  day,  "claim  jumpers."  ]Mc- 
Donald  and  Gibson  acknowledged  the  subpeona  served  upon 
them  and  set  out  to  appear  in  court  to  answer  to  the  summons. 

When  within  a  short  distance  from  the  fort,  where  the 
trail  wound  through  the  woods,  the  men  were  ambushed 
by  the  gang  of  claim  jumpers,  who  began  pouring  a  rain  of 
bullets  at  them.  Their  horses  dashed  forward  and  McDonald 
escaped  unharmed,  but  not  so  Gibson,  who  was  unfortunate 
enough  to  receive  eight  bullet  w^ounds  in  his  arms  and  legs, 
none  striking  a  vital  spot,  however.  JMcDonald  helped  his 
partner  into  the  fort,  where  he  was  turned  over  to  the  army 
physician  to  have  his  wounds  dressed.  The  young  man  then 
rode  on  into  the  town  of  Steilacoom  to  demand  protection  of 
the  Sheriff,  Ike  Carson,  who  was,  however,  out  of  the  country, 
as  the  mob  well  knew.  Soon  the  gang  folloAved  him  into  town 
ranging  themselves  in  line  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  street 
from  a  saloon  in  which  ^McDonald  was  standing  and  began  to 
call  upon  him  to  show  himself.  Thinking  to  argue  with  the 
mob,  jMcDonald  stepped  to  the  door,  and  said,  "Now,  boys,  let's 
talk  this  matter  over.  There  must  be  some  misunderstanding 
and  to  show  3'ou  that  I  want  peace  I'll  throw  my  gun  away." 
Suiting  the  action  to  the  word  he  hurled  his  weapon  into  the 
dust  of  the  street.  Scarcely  had  he  done  so,  however,  when 
the  gang  opened  fire.  Realizing  then  that  they  would  not  stop 
short  of  murder,  ^McDonald  turned  and  ran  through  the  saloon 
and  down  an  alley  in  the  rear.  The  men  started  after  him  in 
full  cry,  firing  as  they  ran.  Before  the  fugitive  had  gone  forty 
feet  a  bullet  reached  its  mark  and  he  fell  mortally  wounded. 

As  he  lay  there  in  the  pitiless  sun,  a  small  boy,  attracted 
by  the  shots,  came  down  the  alley.  Hearing  McDonald's  gasp- 
ing cry  for  "water"  the  lad  started  to  bring  him  some,  but 
the  leader  of  the  murderers  stepped  out  and  warned  the  child 
that  McDonald's  fate  would  be  his  if  he  dared  to  relieve  his 
distress,  the  boy  shrank,  whimpering  away,  leaving  the  dying 
man  to  groan  aloud  in  his  death  agony. 

But,  look,  is  this  an  angel  bending  piteously  over  thi^ 
sufferer?     So  she  must  have  seemed  to  IMcDonald  as  his  dviiitr 


264  THURSTON  COUNTY 

gaze  looked  into  the  sad,  tender  eyes  of  a  Sister  of  Charity. 

This  sister,  one  of  a  band  of  noble  women  inhabiting  the 
nunnery,  which  the  Catholic  Church  had  early  established  in 
Steilaeoora,  had  hastened  to  the  awful  scene  as  soon  as  she 
heard  the  shots  and  realized  that  her  ministrations  might  be 
needed. 

''Go,  sister,  leave  me,  your  life  is  in  danger,"  gasped  ?.Ic- 
Donald.  "By  all  the  powers  of  God,  church  and  humanity,  T 
dare  them  to  interfere  with  me,"  said  the  Sister  as  she  moist- 
ened the  lips  and  straightened  the  limbs  of  the  dying  man. 
Not  one  of  that  lawless  band  moved  a  finger  to  prevent  the 
sister  in  her  work  of  mercy.  When  life  was  extinct  ]\IeDonald  's 
remains  were  taken  into  the  little  old  Catholic  Church,  which 
still  stands  as  a  shrine  to  the  weary  at  the  top  of  the  hill,  and 
tenderly  prepared  for  burial.  Not  yet  satisfied  with  their 
bloody  work  the  mob  started  back  along  the  road  to  find  Gib- 
son. The  latter,  after  having  his  wounds  dressed,  had  insisted 
(ui  being  placed  in  a  wagon  and  started  to  town  to  learn  the 
late  of  his  partner,  McDonald.  Within  a  mile  of  town  the  mob 
met  and  surrounded  the  vehicle.  Gibson,  weak  and  almost 
fainting  from  loss  of  blood,  raised  himself  in  the  wagonbed 
until  he  could  snatch  the  revolver  from  the  belt  of  the  Indian 
driver.  One  shot  was  all  he  had  strength  for  but  that  struck 
one  of  the  mob  in  the  leg,  and  had  Gibson  not  been  too  over- 
come with  the  exertion  to  take  aim  correctly  he  would  have 
avenged  McDonald's  death.  The  mob  made  short  work  of 
Gibson  and  shot  him  through  the  head. 

Almost  within  the  shadow  of  the  asylum  is  the  spot  where 
Chief  Leschi  expiated  his  crime  of  the  murder  of  Joseph 
Miles  and  A.  Benton  Moses  at  the  beginning  of  the  Indian 
war.  This  Indian  had  been  surrendered  by  one  of  his  relatives 
for  a  reward  of  fifty  blankets.  Leschi  was  brought  to  trial 
before  a  jury,  among  whom  were  Ezra  Meeker  and  AVm.  M. 
Kincaid.  After  listening  to  the  evidence  these  men  stood  for 
acquittal  with  the  result  that  the  jury,  being  unable  to  agree, 
was  finally  discharged.  At  a  second  trial  before  Chief  Justice 
Lander  the  Indian  was  convicted  and  sentenced  to  be  hung. 
Appeal  was  then  taken  to  the  Supreme  Court  which  stayed 
the  execution  for  a  while.  The  ease  was  this  time  argued 
l)efore  Justices  0.  B.  :\IcFadden   and  F.  A.  Cheuoweth.     The 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  265 

decision  against  Leschi  by  the  Court  was  unanimous.  The 
opinion  was  written  by  Judge  IMcFadden  and  sealed  Leschi 's 
doom.     The  date  of  execution  was  set  for  January  22,  1858. 

Leschi  was  then  sent  to  Fort  Steilacoom  to  await  the  ful- 
fillment of  his  sentence.  Dr.  Tolmie  and  other  officials  of 
the  Hudson  Bay  Company  took  active  steps  to  secure  a  pardon 
from  Governor  ]\Ic]\Iullen.  but  this  was  refused. 

When  the  day  of  execution  finally  arrived  Leschi 's  friends 
.secured  a  further  delay  by  working  a  clever  trick.  The  sheriff 
of  Pierce  County  and  his  deputy  were  placed  under  arrest  by 
Lieutenant  I\IcKibben.  who  had  been  appointed  a  deputy  Unit- 
ed States  Marshal,  the  trumped  up  charge  against  the  Sheriff 
av.d  deputy  being  the  selling  of  liquor  to  Indians.  They  were 
released  from  custody  as  soon  as  the  hour  set  for  the  execu- 
tion was  passed.  This  action  on  the  part  of  the  military  offi- 
cers and  Hudson  Bay  people  led  to  intense  indignation  among 
the  citizens.  Mass  meetings  were  held  in  Steilacoom  and  OljTii- 
pia,  at  which  Governor  ]McMullen  and  Secretary  INIason  voiced 
the  indignation  of  the  people  at  the  manner  in  which  the  law 
had  been  trampled  on,  and  a  series  of  resolutions  were  adopted 
denouncing,  by  name  the  officers  of  Forts  Nesqually  and  Steil- 
acoom and  Leschi 's  attorney.  As  the  Territorial  Legislature  was 
in  session  an  act  was  railroaded  through  both  houses  demand- 
ing a  special  session  of  the  Supreme  Court  to  pronounce  upon 
the  case  of  Leschi  as  it  then  stood. 

At  this  special  session  the  prisoner  was  resentenced  for  a 
third  time  and  William  Mitchell,  then  acting  Sheriff  of  Thurs- 
ton County  was  appointed  to  carry  the  sentence  into  execution. 
The  date  fixed  was  February  19.  Captain  Isaac  Hays,  Sheriff 
of  Thurston  County,  was  at  this  time  absent  from  the  state,  so 
the  unpleasant  duty  naturally  fell  upon  the  deputy. 
In  Mr.  Mitchell's  words: 

"On  the  day  sot  for  the  execution,  Ed.  Furst,  John  Head, 
George  Blankenship,  Charley  Granger  and  myself  set  out  on 
horseback  and  went  to  Fort  Steilacoom,  where  the  prisoner  was 
turned  over  to  me.  The  scaffold  had  been  erected  about  a  half 
mile  from  the  fort  and  there  the  execution  took  place.  Know- 
ing that  Charley  Granger  had  been  a  sailor,  I  asked  him  to  tie 
the  noose  about  the  neck  of  the  condemned  man,  which  he  did. 
Leschi  made  a  speeeli  to  the  Indians  that  were  tliere,  but  as 


2^6 


THURSTON   COUNTY 


his  talk  was  in  his  native  tongue  and  no  interpreter  being  pro- 
vided I  do  not  know  what  he  said.  These  formalities  having 
been  gone  through  with,  I  knocked  the  pin  out  from  under  the 
trapdoor  and  Chief  Leschi  was  sent  to  the  happy  hunting 
grounds.  He  was  undoubtedly  as  cruel  and  cunning  an  Indian 
as  there  was  in  the  Puget  Sound  country  and  deserved 
hanging." 

The  scene  of  the  closing  act  of  the  "Tragedy  of 
Leschi"  was  a  short  distance  east  of  Fort  Steilacoom  and  near 
the  north  end  of  the  lake  of  that  name.  Here  the  prairie  sinks 
into  a  rounding  depression  forming  a  natural  ampitheatre,  in 
the  center  of  which  the  gallows  had  been  erected.  The  scene 
must  have  been  a  dismal  one ;  the  rain  drizzled  down,  dripping 
drearily  from  the  fringe  of  stunted  oaks  which  outlined  the 
depression.  ^Making  a  hollow  square  around  the  rude  scaffold 
was  a  line  of  soldiers  and  a  considerable  number  of  Indians 
and  settlers  stood  near  watching  the  end  of  the  tragedy. 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  267 


THE  CROSBY  FAMILY 


Like  unto  a  saga  of  old,  runs  the  story  of  the  coming  of  the 
Crosby  family  into  the  West.  In  all  the  wild  experiences  re- 
lated during  the  compilation  of  this  book,  none  were  more 
picturesque  and  interesting  than  the  history  of  an  entire  fam- 
ily of  stalwart  sons  and  fair  daughters  with  their  aged,  but 
sturdy  father,  coming  with  their  own  ship,  laden  with  their 
own  goods,  their  children  and  themselves,  to  take  their  part  in 
conquering  the  wilderness.  'Way  back  in  1846  the  United 
States  government  sent  Capt.  Nathaniel  Crosby — one  of  a  fam- 
ily of  sea  captains — in  command  of  the  brig  0.  C.  Raymond, 
to  take  supplies  to  relieve  the  distress  of  those  immigrants,,  who, 
illy  prepared,  as  were  all  too  many,  had  joined  the  wild  rush 
to  seek  their  fortunes  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 

So  impressed  was  Capt.  Crosby  with  the  prospects  of  for- 
tunes to  be  gained  in  this  land  of  opportunities  for  the  venture- 
some, that  he  decided  to  have  his  kinsmen  join  him.  After 
sending  back  for  his  brothers  to  buy  and  fit  out  a  brig  with 
everything  needful  for  a  home  in  the  West,  he  waited  with 
v/hat  patience  he  might,  the  arrival  of  his  family. 

Clanrick  Crosby,  an  elder  brother,  bought  the  brig  Grecian 
— 270  tons  capacity — and  the  start  was  made  in  1849.  Clanrick 
was  captain  of  the  brig,  wuth  a  brother-in-law,  Washington 
Hurd,  first  officer  and  Alfred  Crosby  second  officer.  In  the 
cabin  were :  Captain  Nathaniel  Crosby,  Sr.,  father  of  Captain 
Clanrick  and  Officer  Alfred  Crosby,  who  remained  in  the  West 
a  couple  of  years  before  returning  to  his  home  in  Cape  Cod, 
Massachusetts,  where  he  died,  Mrs.  Clanrick  Crosby,  Phoebe, 
and  their  three  children,  Clanrick,  Phoebe  Louisa  and  Cecelia, 
Mrs.  Elizabeth  Hurd  and  little  daughter,  Ella — Mrs.  Hurd  was 
Captain  Crosby's  sister,  Mrs.  Clara  Nickerson  Crosby,  wife  of 
Alfred  Crosby,  Mrs.  Mary  Crosby,  wife  of  Capt.  Nathaniel,  Jr., 
and  their  three  children,  Nathaniel,  Mary  L.  and  IMartha  R., 
Mrs.  Holmes,  companion  and  housekeeper,  and  one  passenger. 


268  THURSTON   COUNTY 

Mr.  Converse  Lilly.  Before  the  mast  were  Richard  Hartley, 
Joseph  Taylor  and  Foster  and  Nathaniel  Lincoln,  brothers  of 
jNIrs.  Nathaniel  Crosby,  Jr.  The  Grecian  arrived  at  Portland 
in  March,  1850. 

The  two  elder  Crosby  brothers  came  on  to  Tnmwater,  Capt. 
Nathaniel  remaining  in  Oregon.  Among  the  Crosby  children 
who  made  the  famous  trip  in  the  Grecian  w^as  the  little  Martha, 
then  nine  years  of  age.  That  child  is  now  Mrs.  Andrew  J. 
Burr  and  the  reminiscences  contributed  by  this  lady  were 
among  the  most  interesting  of  the  many  related  by  pioneer 
men  and  women  during  the  preparation  of  this  volume.  After 
living  in  Portland  until  she  was  11  years  old,  her  father,  Capt. 
Nathaniel  Crosby,  took  a  cargo  of  spars  from  St.  Helens,  Ore- 
gon, to  Hong  Kong,  China,  the  first  big  sticks  that  were  ever 
sent  from  the  Pacific  Coast  forests  to  the  Orient.  After  a  couple 
of  years  of  wandering  in  various  ports,  Capt.  Crosby,  leaving 
his  family  in  China,  came  to  Olympia  and  loaded  his  ship  with 
a  second  cargo  of  spars  for  China,  this  second  load  having 
been  cut  from  Butlers  Cove,  and  was  the  first  shipment  of 
Puget  Sound  timber.  In  Hong  Kong  the  Crosby  family  re- 
mained for  several  years.  Martha  and  the  other  children  were 
sent  to  school  there  and  the  child  became  a  young  woman. 
Here  Capt.  Crosby  died,  the  family  still  making  their  home 
in  this  foreign  land.  In  1861  Martha  became  the  wife  of 
Samuel  C.  Woodruff,  a  wealthy  ship  chandler  of  Hong  Kong. 

Her  first  child,  Samuel  L.  Woodruff,  was  born  there.  The 
cholera  was  raging  at  this  time  in  China,  so  the  young  mother 
brought  her  son  to  San  Francisco  until  the  danger  had  abated 
a  little.  While  living  in  this  city  her  second  child,  Ada,  was 
born. 

With  her  two  little  children  Mrs.  Wooruff  came  to  Olympia 
to  visit  her  mother  and  brothers.  The  very  first  steamer  which 
came  into  port  after  their  arrival  here  brought  the  news  that 
Mr.  Woodruff  had  died  from  an  attack  of  cholera.  The  widow 
and  her  children  continued  to  make  Tumwater  their  home  for 
the  following  two  years.  Then  she  met  and,  in  due  time,  was 
married  to  Andrew  J.  Burr.  The  wedding  took  place  in  the 
old  Crosby  house  in  Tumwater  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Burr  came  to 
Olympia  to  make  their  home. 

To  them  were  born  three  children,  Maud,  now  Mrs.  T.  F. 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  269 

Basse  of  Seattle;  Chas.  A.  Burr,  still  of  Olympia,  and  June  Burr 
of  Seattle. 

Mr.  Burr  was  possessed  of  considerable  property  at  one 
time  in  Ol.ympia  and  was  one  of  the  city's  leading  spirits  in 
business  and  political  affairs.  For  eight  years  he  was  post- 
master of  the  Capital  City,  and  in  his  prime  was  quite  noted 
for  his  political  speaking.  He  at  one  time  stumped  the  territory 
Avith  Selucius  Garfielde  in  one  of  the  hottest  campaigns  known 
in  the  history  of  his  party.  He  was  of  an  extraordinarily  genial 
and  witty  nature  and  his  speeches  were  in  great  demand  when 
there  was  a  political  strife  being  carried  on. 

]\rr.  Burr  died  in  Olympia  in  the  year  1900. 

Of  the  two  children  born  to  I\Irs.  Burr  by  her  former 
marriage  both  have  become  prominently  known  in  their  re- 
spective life's  work — Sam  Woodruff  having  been  identified 
with  the  state  institutions,  formerly  with  the  AVestern  "Wash- 
ington Hospital  for  Insane  and  at  present  the  efficient  super- 
intendent of  the  School  for  Defective  Youth  at  Medical  Lake. 
Ada  Woodruff  Anderson  is  an  authoress  of  more  than  state- 
wide celebrity,  having  been  the  writer  of  several  novels  and 
magazine  stories  and  sketches  which  have  brought  her  name 
prominently  before  the  literary  world.  She  makes  her  home 
on  Mercer  Island,  near  Seattle.  At  one  time  Mrs.  Anderson 
taught  the  county  school  at  Yelm  Prairie.  She  tells  with  some 
reminiscent  pride  that  her  teacher's  certificate  was  presented 
to  her  upon  her  graduation  by  the  late  Rev.  John  R.  Thompson. 

Among  IMrs.  Burr's  personal  reminiscences  is  singing 
in  the  now  famous  choir  of  the  Taylor  Stfeet  M.  E.  Church 
when  she  was  still  a  mere  child.  Beside  her  in  this  choir, 
singing  with  all  his  sweet  young  voice  stood  John  IMiller 
]\Iurphy.  This  was  in  Portland  before  either  the  little  JMartha 
or  Johnnie  Murphy  came  to  Puget  Sound. 

Soon  after  the  arrival  of  the  Crosby  family  in  Portland 
I\Iartha  and  her  sister  were  invited  to  join  some  young  people 
of  the  settlement  on  a  blackberry  picking  expedition  on  a  cer- 
tain day  of  the  week.  As  the  children  were  anxious  to  get 
acquainted  the  invitation  was  accepted.  On  the  appointed  day 
early  in  the  morning,  the  sisters  commenced  to  get  ready  for 
their  first  social  function  in  the  West.  White  dresses  were 
carefully  pressed  out,  hair  put  up  in  curl  papers  and  strapped 


270  THURSTON   COUNTY 

slippers  donned  over  spotless  white  stockings.  The  sisters 
were  chagrined  when  their  companions  arrived  to  accompany 
them  to  the  berry  patch  and  they  saw  how  inappropriate  was 
their  attire. 

Mrs.  Bnrr  now  makes  her  home  in  Seattle  with  her 
daughter,  I\Irs.  Basse. 

Captain  Clanriek  Crosby  was  one  of  the  dominant  spirits 
in  Tum water  for  many  years,  foremost  in  every  enterprise 
for  the  development  and  advancement  of  the  community.  He 
it  was  who  presented  the  original  plot  of  land  for  the  Masonic 
and  Odd  Fellows  cemeteries. 

The  children  of  Clanriek  and  IMrs.  Crosby  were  Clan- 
rick,  jr.,  dead  these  many  years,  Phoebe  Louise,  Cecelia,  Win, 
Walter  and  Fannie.  The  eldest  daughter  is  Mrs.  George  Biles 
and  the  youngest  girl  is  well  known,  not  only  in  Olympia,  but 
Seattle,  and  Alaska  points  as  well,  as  Mrs.  John  Y.  Ostrander. 

Walter  Crosby  is  too  well  known  in  Olympia  to  need  any 
description.  These  two  younger  Crosbys  were  born  after  Capt, 
and  Mrs.  Clanriek  Crosby  reached  Tumwater.  Mrs.  Biles 
being  the  oldest  of  the  living  children  of  Clanriek  Crosby 
was  invited  to  contribute  her  reminiscences  of  her  early  life 
in  Tumwater.  This  lady  was  about  nine  years  of  age  when 
the  Indian  war  broke  out  and  well  remembers  the  night  some 
friendly  Indians  came  to  her  father's  house  and  warned  ]\Ir. 
Crosby  that  there  was  danger  of  an  attack  from  the  hostiles. 
Already  the  few  residents  of  Tumwater  had  built  the  block 
house  which  stood  for  many  years  at'  the  end  of  the  bridge 
across  the  Des  Chutes  River,  but  so  far  many  of  the  families 
continued  to  live  in  their  own  houses. 

On  this  particular  night  Mr.  Crosby  was  inclined  to  be 
skeptical  of  there  being  any  real  danger,  but  the  Indians  told 
him  to  watch  for  the  light  of  burning  buildings,  and  sure 
enough,  as  soon  as  it  was  quite  dark  the  heavens  were  lighted 
up  with  the  flare  of  the  Glasgow  and  Linklighter  barns, 
which  had  been  set  on  fire  by  the  enemy. 

That  was  convincing  proof  that  the  Indians  were  sincere 
in  giving  the  alarm.  Hastily  rousing  the  children  from  their 
beds  and  dressing  them,  flight  to  the  block  house  was  made. 
The  little  Phoebe — Mrs.  Biles — was  the  proud  possessor  of  a 
bran  new  sun  bonnet,  wdiich  in  the  haste  of  the  family  to  get 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  271 

away,  was  left  hanging  on  the  kitchen  wall.  After  reaching 
the  fort,  while  her  parents  were  getting  the  younger  children 
settled  for  the  remainder  of  the  night,  the  little  girl  slipped  ont 
in  the  dark  and  ran  all  alone  all  the  way  to  her  home  to  get 
her  precious  sun  bonnet. 

Phoebe  returned  in  safety,  but  her  parents  reprimanded 
her  severely  for  the  fright  she  had  given  them. 

In  later  years,  1865,  Phoebe  was  married  to  George  Biles, 
himself  the  son  of  a  pioneer.  His  father,  James  Biles,  with 
his  wife  and  seven  children,  had  arrived  in  Tumwater  in  1853. 

Accustomed  as  was  the  Biles  family  to  the  comparative 
luxury  of  a  Kentucky  plantation,  the  life  on  Puget  Sound  was 
a  striking  contrast.  Clams,  salmon  and  potatoes  for  staples 
of  diet,  a  log  cabin  to  live  in  and  nearest  neighbors  savage 
Indians,  the  prospect  was  not  especially  alluring,  but  with 
characteristic  pluck  and  energy  Mr.  Biles  succeeded  in  carving 
a  comfortable  home  out  of  the  wilderness. 

The  Biles  family  were  among  the  very  first  emigrants  to 
reach  this  section  through  the  wild  Natchez  Pass.  Before 
reaching  this  pass  their  train  was  met  by  Ashur  Seargent.  who 
was  then  acting  as  a  guide  to  divert  travel  to  the  Puget  Sound 
country. 

Besides  George  Biles  there  were  these  children  in  the  Biles 
family:  James  B.,  Kate  E.,  now  Mrs.  F.  M.  Seargent  of  Seattle, 
S.  Isabelle,  now  Mrs.  M.  S.  Drew,  of  Port  Gamble. 


21'^  THURSTON   COUNTY 


B.  F.  YANTIS 


Snow  beginning  the  latter  part  of  October  and  falling  to 
a  depth  of  fifteen  inches,  and  himself  and  eight  children  being 
forced  to  subsist  on  potatoes  and  dried  salmon  straight  all 
through  the  winter  months,  was  the  experience  of  Judge  B, 
F.  Yantis  and  famil}',  when  they  reached  Bush  Prairie  in  1852. 

Starting  in  the  Spring  of  that  year  from  the  old  home  in 
Missouri,  where,  although  money  might  be  a  little  scarce, 
there  was  an  abundance  of  the  fat  of  the  land  for  subsistence, 
travelling  all  those  long,  weary  months  over  the  old  Oregon 
trail,  leaving  his  wife  and  the  mother  of  his  children  in  a  lonely 
grave  on  the  sage  brush  plains  of  Idaho,  with  his  motherless 
child,  Fannie,  an  infant  of  but  three  years  of  age,  the  prospect 
awaiting  the  hardy  emigrant  when  he  reached  the  El  Dorado 
of  his  dreams  seemed  cold  and  forbidding. 

The  trip,  undertaken  in  company  with  a  number  of  kins- 
men and  friends,  had  been  an  unusually  trying  experience. 
Besides  that  of  Mrs.  Yantis,  there  were  many  other  deaths 
occurring  in  the  train,  owing  to  the  appearance  of  black 
measles,  a  sister,  Mrs.  Eliza  Ostrander,  with  her  children, 
being  among  the  sufferers.  Judge  Yantis'  oldest  daughter, 
Mrs.  W.  H.  Pullen,  with  her  three-year-old  baby  in  her  arms, 
was  obliged,  as  were  all  the  Avomen  and  children,  to  walk 
across  the  five  miles  of  portage  below  The  Dalles.  This  child 
was  ill  when  the  weary  march  through  the  hot  sun  was  be- 
gun, and  grew  rapidly  worse  as  the  mother  plodded  along. 
Before  the  little  boat  was  reached  in  which  the  party  was 
to  be  brought  on  down  the  Columbia,  the  baby  was  dead  in 
the  distracted  mother's  arms.  That  evening  a  tiny  grave  was 
made  by  the  banks  of  the  majestic  river  and  the  party  were 
obliged  to  proceed  on  their  journey. 

When  the  Big  Sandy  was  reached  the  march  was  again 
resumed  to  the  Cowlitz  River,  where  Indian  canoes  and  ba- 
teaus  were  employed  to  bring  the  w^eary  emigrants  to  Cow- 


B.   F.  YANTIS 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  273 

]itz  Landing.  Judge  Yantis'  oxen  were  so  exhausted  by  the 
trip  across  the  phiins  that  he  left  them  to  be  wintered  at  The 
Dalles.  In  the  Spring  he  found  that  all  had  perished  but  one 
ox.  But  nothing  dismayed,  and  with  the  pluck  and  endur- 
ance which  was  characteristic  of  the  sturdy  pioneers,  Judge 
Yantis  at  once  p^^^ceeeded  to  take  advantage  of  the  opportunity 
he  saw  on  every  hand,  for  bettering  his  financial  affairs.  A 
homestead  was  pre-empted  out  on  Bush  Prairie,  a  few  miles 
from  where  Plum  Station  now  is,  and  a  comfortable  home  was 
fioon  established. 

Before  the  family  had  lived  many  months  in  their  new 
Lome,  another  terrible  blow  was  dealt  them.  The  oldest  boy, 
James,  became  a  pony  express  rider,  carrying  the  mail  from 
Cowlitz  Landing  to  Olympia.  One  day,  being  hot  and  dusty 
from  the  riding,  he  went  in  swimming  in  Barnes'  Lake,  and 
contracted  inflammatory  rheumatism,  w^hich  caused  his  death 
within  a  few  days. 

After  several  years  spent  on  the  homestead,  Judge  Yantis 
moved  into  Olympia  and  took  a  contract  for  carrying  mail  and 
passengers  from  Cowlitz  Landing  to  Olympia.  This  was  a  two 
days'  travel,  over  what  has  frequently  been  described  by  other 
pioneers  as  the  "worst  roads  on  earth,"  but  the  mail  was 
always  delivered  with  regularity,  and  the  passengers  in  safety. 

While  living  in  Missouri  B.  F.  Yantis  was  Judge  of  the 
Superior  Court  of  Saline  County,  and  after  reaching  the  West, 
served  in  the  irst  Territorial  Legislature.  He  was  an  un- 
swerving Democrat  and  a  life-long  member  of  the  Presbyterian 
Church,  and  was  the  first  Entered  Apprentice  initiated  in  Ma- 
sonry north  of  the  Columbia  River.  A  man  of  high  ideals 
of  honor  and  justice,  Judge  Yantis  was  held  in  great  esteem 
by  his  fellow  pioneers. 

His  children  were:  Mrs.  W.  H.  Pnllen,  who  in  later 
years  became  Mrs.  Eichard  Wood,  and  the  mother  of  Oscar 
and  Addie  Wood;  Sarah,  who  was  made  a  girl  widow  when 
her  husband  of  a  few  months,  was  killed  at  the  beginning  of 
the  Indian  war.  It  was  for  the  killing  of  Moses  that  Chief 
Leschi  was  hung,  after  peace  was  declared.  Sarah  afterwards 
became  the  wife  of  George  C.  Blankenship,  and  the  mother 
of  George  E.  and  Robert  L.  Blankenship;  James  II.  Yantis, 
the  lad  who  died  on  Bush  Prairie ;  Wm.  M.,  Robert  L.,  John 


274  THURSTON  COUNTY 

v.,  Mary,  who  died  in  infancy,  and  Frances  L.,  wife  of  Capt. 
J.  J.  Gilbert.  Of  this  goodly  family  of  sons  and  daughters 
the  youngest  son,  John  V.  is  left — the  last  leaf  on  the  tree. 
His  living  children  are  George,  Annie,  Kobert,  Hope,  and 
Faith. 


REESE  A.  BREWER 


Reese  A.  Brewer,  a  well  known  pioneer  of  Thurston  County, 
was  born  in  Arkansas,  in  1835.  He  came  across  the  plains  with 
his  mother,  two  brothers  and  two  sisters,  and  settled  near 
Eugene,  Oregon,  and  lived  on  a  farm  there  until  1860,  when 
he  came  to  Washington  and  settled  on  Grand  Mound  prairie. 
in  the  southern  part  of  Thurston  County.  Here  he  lived  until 
his  death  in  1909. 

Mr.  Brewer  was  a  member  of  the  Territorial  Legislature 
in  the  early  eighties ;  also  a  Justice  of  the  Peace  at  Grand 
Mound  for  six  years ;  postmaster  seven  years,  and  served  two 
terms  as  County  Commissioner,  and  was  Chairman  of  the 
Board  when  the  Thurston  County  court  house  was  built, 
which  is  now  the  west  half  of  the  present  state  capitol  building. 

Reese  A.  Brewer  was  married  to  Eliza  A.  Johnson,  the 
daughter  of  another  Thurston  County  pioneer  family,  she  hav- 
ing crossed  the  plains  from  her  native  state,  Iowa,  in  1852 
Mrs.  Brewer  died  at  the  early  age  of  27  years. 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  275 


WILLIAM  BILLINGS 


Among  the  documents  and  papers  from  which  facts  re- 
garding Tliurston  County's  pioneers  were  found,  none  were 
of  more  service  to  the  compiler  than  the  scrap  book  formerly 
belonging  to  Theodore  L.  Brown  and  loaned  to  the  writer  by 
his  wife,  ]\Iartha.  Mr.  Brown  realized  that  the  actual  pioneers 
were  rapidly  being  called,  that  soon  there  would  be  none  left 
to  tell  the  story,  so  he  made  an  effort  to  collect  brief  sketches 
of  as  many  of  his  old  friends  as  he  could  reach.  Among 
those  who  complied  with  Mr.  Brown's  request  for  a  life  his- 
tory was  Mr.  William  Billings. 

With  characteristic  modesty,  Mr.  Billings  related  only  the 
baldest  facts  concerning  a  life  rich  with  experience  and  ad- 
venture. A  man  who  had  been  repeatedly  honored  by  his  gov- 
ernment, and  his  fellow  citizens,  by  appointment  and  election 
to  important  offices,  a  man  who  had  always  stood  for  the 
right,  and  who  had  never  betrayed  the  trust  of  his  fellow 
men,  what  an  opportunity  for  self  laudation  was  afforded  him 
by  Mr.  Brown's  request. 

The  compiler,  respecting  Mr.  Billing's  memory,  deems 
"that  no  words  of  hers  can  be  more  eloquent  or  expressive  than 
his  own,  written  but  a  few  months  before  his  death: 


"Olympia,  May  25,  1908. 
*'Mr.  Brown, 

"Dear  Sir:  In  compliance  with  my  promise,  I  will  give 
you  a  short  account  of  my  life. 

"I  was  born  in  the  town  of  Ripton,  Addison  County,  Ver- 
mont, October  27,  1827,  where  I  lived  until  I  was  19  years  old. 
Then  I  left  home  and  came  around  Cape  Horn  on  a  whaling 
vessel  as  a  hand  before  the  mast. 

"I  arrived  at  Sandwich  Islands  in  1848,  when  I  left  my 
ship  and  stayed  there  till  June,  1849,  and  while  there  I  learned 


276  THURSTON  COUNTY 

of  the  discovery  of  gold  in  California.  I  then  came  to  San 
Francisco,  arriving  on  Jnly  4.  1849. 

"I  stayed  but  a  short  time  in  California.  Came  to  Ore- 
gon, landing  at  Portland  on  the  8th  of  September,  1849.  Re- 
mained in  Portland  till  Jnly,  1851,  when  I  came  to  Olympia, 
then  a  part  of  Oregon.  Olympia  has  been  my  home  ever  since. 
When  the  Indian  war  broke  out  in  1855,  I  joined  the  volunteers. 

"In  1860  I  was  elected  Sheriff  of  Thurston  County  and  re- 
mained as  Sheriff  between  twenty-three  and  twenty-four  years. 
I  have  held  the  position  of  Deputy  U.  S.  Marshal  under  United 
States  Marshals  C.  E.  Weed,  Huntington,  Hopkins,  Phillip 
Ritz  and  E.  S.  Kearney. 

"I  kept  all  the  convicts  in  the  Territory  on  a  contract  with 
the  Territory  for  nine  years  and  was  in  charge  of  the  Indians 
on  the  reservation  for  about  five  years,  living  among  them 
with  my  family,  and  must  say  I  always  found  the  Indians 
good,  kind  neighbors. 

"Now,  this  is  all  I  have  to  say  and  I  am  glad  to  be  done, 
for  I  am  shaky,  half  blind  and  feel  that  my  time  now  is  very 
short.  William  Billings." 

Although  Mr.  Billings  did  not  elaborate  on  any  of  the 
events  of  his  life,  some  of  the  incidents  are  too  closely  con- 
nected with  the  early  history  of  Thurston  County  to  be  ignored. 

In  1877  he  contracted  with  the  Territory  to  build  a  jail 
at  his  own  expense,  take  all  the  prisoners  as  soon  as  convicted, 
care  for,  board,  clothe  and  protect  them  during  their  confine- 
ment at  the  price  of  seventy  cents  each,  per  day,  he  being  per- 
mitted to  use  their  services  in  any  way  he  saw  fit.  He  built 
his  jail  at  Seatco,  started  a  cooper  establishment,  developed  a 
coal  mine  and  organized  the  Seatco  Manufacturing  Company 
for  making  sash,  doors  and  blinds,  continuing  this  contract 
mbor  for  a  term  of  nine  years. 

At  the  time  he  served  as  Superintendent  of  the  Puyallup 
Indian  reservation  there  was  not  a  white  resident  between 
that  reservation  and  Fort  Steilacoom,  and  for  weeks  at  a  time 
his  family  were  alone  among  600  Indians.  That  he  found  these 
Indians  "good,  kind  neighbors,"  is  an  eloquent  tribute  to  Mr. 
Billings'  kindly  management  of  the  affairs  of  the  reservation. 

]\Ir.  Billings  was  a  volunteer  in  Company  B,  First  Regi- 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES 


277 


ment,  Capt.  Gilmore  Hays,  during  the  Indian  war  and  took 
part  in  the  engagements  of  Green  River,  White  River  and 
South  Prairie. 

From  1869  to  1891  Mr.  Billings  was  Sheriff  of  Thurston 
County,  being  continuously  elected  and  re-elected  on  the  Re- 
publican ticket,  being  the  first  man  elected  in  Thurston 
County  on  that  ticket. 

Mr.  Billings  was  married  in  1861  to  Miss  Mary  Ann 
Kandle  of  Tumwater,  who  died  in  1868,  leaving  tw^o  children, 
one  of  whom  is  Charles  A.  Billings,  one  of  Olympia's  promi- 
nent residents. 

In  1873  Mr.  Billings  was  again  married,  this  time  to  Miss 
Jeannette  M.  Ballentyne.  Five  children  were  born  to  them : 
Frederick  D.,  John  Alden,  Eunice  Cleora,  Laura  Alice,  de- 
ceased, and  Laura  Blanche. 

The  widow,  with  her  daughter,  Laura  Blanche,  live  in 
their  home  on  the  corner  of  Ninth  and  Franklin  Streets, 
Blanche  being  a  stenographer  in  the  State  Industrial  Insurance 
Commission. 


278  THURSTON  COUNTY 


R.  H.  MILROY 


While  General  Robert  Houston  Milroy  and  his  wife  cannot 
be  counted  among  the  original  pioneers  who  fought  their  way, 
step  by  step,  through  the  wilderness,  their  arrival  in  Olympia 
as  early  as  1869.  to  take  up  the  important  duties  of  Superin- 
tendent of  Indian  Affairs  in  the  rapidly  developing  Territory 
of  Washington,  and  the  respect  and  honor  with  which  the 
memories  of  General  Milroy  and  his  wife,  IMary  Armitage 
Milroy,  are  cherished  in  the  minds  of  the  early  Olympians, 
surely  entitle  them  to  a  prominent  niche  in  this  collection  of 
pioneer  sketches. 

General  Milroy 's  name  is  remembered  with  the  respect 
due  to  a  patriot,  a  brave  soldier  and  a  public  spirited  citizen, 
Mrs.  Milroy,  with  her  lovely  character.  Christian  life  and 
womanly  graces,  was  an  inspiration  towards  all  good  to  her 
devoted  family  and  wide  circle  of  friends.  R.  H.  Milroy  was 
a  native  of  Washington  County,  Indiana,  and  was  born  in  the 
year  1816. 

His  ancestry  and  parentage  were  from  an  aristocratic 
Scotch  family.  Indeed,  the  IMilroys  could  trace  their  ancestry 
in  a  direct  line  back  to  Robert  Bruce. 

R.  H.  ]\Iilroy  was  educated  in  the  Military  Academy  of 
NorAvich,  Vermont,  where  he  graduated  in  1843,  Master  of 
Arts,  of  Law  and  of  Civil  Engineering  and  of  Military  Sciences, 
He  was  valedictorian  of  his  class.  In  1850  he  received  a 
diploma  from  the  law  school  of  Bloomington,  Indiana,  which 
institution  conferred  on  him  the  degree  of  B.  L. 

He  was  engaged  in  the  practice  of  law  when  he  was  called 
upon  to  take  part  in  the  war  with  IMexico.  where  he  rendered 
his  country  gallant  service  as  Captain  of  the  First  Indiana 
Regiment.  After  this  war  he  was  commissioned  Judge  of  the 
Eighth  Judicial  District  of  Indiana.  At  the  breaking  out  of 
the  Civil  w^ar  Capt.  Milroy  was  commissioned  Colonel  of  the 
Ninth  Indiana  Volunteers,  serving  under  Gen.  McClellan  in 
Western  Virginia,  and  taking  part  in  the  battles  of  Grafton, 
Philippi  and  Laurel  Hill. 

He  was  later  commissioned  Brigadier  General,  and  placed 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  279 

in  command  of  the  mountain  department  and  put  an  effective 
stop  to  guerrilla  warfare  in  Western  Virginia.  President 
Jefferson  Davis  made  Milroy's  order  in  regard  to  punishment 
of  guerrilla  warfare  the  subject  of  a  special  message  to  the 
Legislature  and  that  body  offered  a  reward  of  ten  thousand 
dollars  for  General  Milroy,  dead  or  alive.  Milro}'  and  General 
Butler  were  the  only  Union  Generals  thus  honored  by  the 
Southern  Congress.  For  his  gallant  actions  in  the  battles  of 
I\IcDowell  and  the  second  battle  of  Bull  Run,  he  was  made 
]Ma,jor  General  of  the  second  division  of  the  Eighth  Army 
Corps,  nine  thousand  strong,  and  with  McReynolds'  brigade, 
occupied  Winchester,  July  11,  1863.  He  fought  his  last  battle 
in  the  war  against  Generals  Forrest  and  Bates  on  the  field  at 
Murfreesboro,  and  defeated  their  combined  forces. 

General  ]\Iilroy  resigned  his  command  July  26,  1865,  after 
having  served  valiantly  in  the  great  struggle  for  the  upholding 
of  the  Union.  After  the  war  General  Milroy  was  appointed 
trustee  of  the  Wabash  and  Erie  Canal  Company,  and  from 
1869  to  1874  he  was  Superintendent  of  Indian  Affairs  in  Wash- 
ington territory. 

From  this  date  to  the  time  of  his  death.  General  Milroy 
was  identified  with  Olympia  and  took  an  active  interest  in  the 
growth  and  development  of  the  city.  He  built  the  house  on 
the  corner  of  Eleventh  and  iNlain  streets,  which  was  the  JMilroy 
home  until  after  the  family  was  broken  up  by  the  death  of 
j\Irs.  Milroy,  and  where  General  ]\Iilroy  ceased  his  earthly 
labors  on  the  29th  of  March,  1890. 

Of  the  seven  children  bom  to  General  and  Mrs.  IMillroy 
only  three  are  still  living,  Robert  Bruce,  Valerius  A.  and 
Walter  J.  The  son  Valerius  or  Val,  as  he  is  commonly  known 
in  Olympia,  has  remained  faithful  to  his  boyhood  home.  Com- 
ing here  when  but  a  lad  of  18  years,  he  became  a  clerk  in  his 
father's  office,  and  from  there  spent  a  few  years  in  surveying, 
and  learning  the  printers'  trade.  He  was  at  one  time  engaged 
in  the  livery  business  with  Mr.  jM.  0 'Conner,  and  was  ap- 
pointed postmaster  of  Olympia  by  President  Harrison.  After 
the  expiration  of  his  term  of  office  he  was  elected  city  clerk, 
and  has  since  held  positions  of  honor  and  trust.  Val  is  still 
unmarried.  Of  the  other  sons.  Robert  Bruce,  with  his  family, 
lives  in  Yakima,  and  Walter  J.  and  wife  live  in  Victoria,  B.  C. 


280  THURSTON   COUNTY 

JOHN  BEARD  ALLEN 


John  Beard  Allen  was  born  at  Crawfordsville,  IMontgom- 
ery  County,  Indiana,  May  18,  1845. 

He  was  the  son  of  Joseph  S.  Allen,  a  prominent  physician 
and  surgeon  of  that  town  and  Hannah  (Beard)  Allen,  daughter 
of  Hon.  John  Beard  of  the  same  place. 

John  Beard  was  called  "the  father  of  Montgomery  Coun- 
ty" from  the  fact  of  his  having  represented  it  for  some  twenty 
odd  years  in  the  Legislature.  He  was  a  strong  figure  in  the 
early   political   annals   of   Indiana. 

John  Allen  received  his  education  in  the  common  schools 
of  his  native  town  and  at  Wabash  College,  located  there.  He 
showed  at  school  a  great  fondness  and  attitude  for  mathe- 
matical studies,   also   for  history,   especially   political   history. 

He  cared,  apparently,  but  little  for  the  languages  and 
literature.  During  the  "Morgan  Raid"  into  Indiana  and  Ohio, 
one  of  the  exciting  episodes  of  the  Civil  war,  John  Allen  served 
as  a  "Minuteman"  until  the  capture  of  Morgan.  He  also  en- 
listed in  the  135th  Indiana  Infantry,  under  a  call  for  five 
months  service  in  1863  and  served  over  seven  months.  He 
was  honorabl}'  discharged  from  both  these  enlistments. 

In  1865  the  family  removed  to  Rochester,  Minnesota.  Here 
after  a  year  spent  in  business,  principally  in  buying  wheat,  he 
entered  the  law  office  of  Hon.  C.  C.  Wilson,  as  a  student,  later 
attending  a  course  of  law^  lectures  at  the  University  of  ]\Iich- 
igan. 

In  1868  he  began  legal  practice  at  Goshen,  Indiana,  in 
partnership  with  the  late  Hon.  J.  J.  Brown,  of  Spokane,  who 
had  been  a  schoolmate  at  Wabash  and  Ann  Arbor. 

He  was  recalled  to  Rochester  by  the  last  illness  of  his 
mother,  who  died  in  December  of  that  year. 

Yielding  to  the  persuasions  of  his  family,  he  determined 
to  remain  at  Rochester.  Here  he  was  elected  City  Attorney 
in  1869,  when  barely  twenty-four  years  of  age. 

Early  in  1870  he  came  to  Washington  Territory,  bring- 
ing with  him  a  very  considerable  sum  of  money,  which  had 
been  intrusted  to  him  for  investment  by  his  father  and  busi- 
nessmen of  Rochester. 

The  money  was  invested  with  remarkably  good  judgment. 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  281 

considering  the  then  undeveloped  state  of  the  country  and  his 
entire  lack  of  experience  in  that  line  of  business. 

After  looking  over  the  ' '  Sound ' '  couiitry  he  selected  Olym- 
pia  as  his  home,  considering  it  likely  to  be  selected  by  the 
Northern  Pacific  Railway  Company  as  its  western  terminus. 

He  opened  a  law  office  in  the  old  "Good  Templars  Hall," 
paying  office  rent,  by  acting  as  janitor  of  the  building.  He 
did  not  remain  long  in  this  location  for  in  the  early  fall  of 
1871,  he  was  found  in  the  Cushman  Land  Office  building  with 
a  pretty  fair  ott'ice  equipment  and  a  considerable  law  prac- 
tice. This  progress  seems  quite  remarkable  when  we  recall 
the  great  strength  of  the  Olj^mpia  Bar,  which  at  that  time 
carried  such  names  as  Selucius  Garfielde,  0.  B.  McFadden, 
J.  E.  Wyche,  Elwood  Evans,  B.  F.  Deiinison,  Eiisha  P.  Ferry 
and  Henry  G.  Stmve,  all  strong  men  and  some  of  them  giants 
in  the  law. 

In  September,  1871,  he  was  married  to  ]\Iiss  M.  Cecelia  Bate- 
man,  of  Lamont,  Michigan,  a  woman  of  great  intellectual  ability 
and  unusual  force  of  character.  He  continued  to  reside  at 
Olympia  until  1881,  when  he  removed  to  Walla  Walla.  In  1875 
he  was  appointed  U.  S.  Attorney  for  Washington  Territory, 
which  office  he  held  by  successive  appointments,  for  ten  years. 

In  1889  he  was  elected  delegate  to  Congress  on  the  Re- 
publican ticket  and  the  Territory  having  been  admitted  as  a 
State  before  he  took  his  seat  as  delegate,  he  was  elected  the 
first  U.  S.  Senator,  drawing  a  four  year  term.  Ex-Gov.  Wat- 
son C.  Squire  was  the  other  Senator  elected.  He  was  a  can- 
didate for  reelection  to  the  Senate  in  1893,  but  by  a  strange 
combination  of  circumstances  and  political  factors,  the  session 
was  deadlocked  and  there  was  no  election.  He  was  appointed 
by  Gov.  McGraw  to  fill  the  vacancy,  but  the  appointmeut  was 
unavailing,  under  the  rule  and  precedents  of  the  Senate. 

Mr.  Allen  was  the  overwhelming  choice  of  his  party  both 
in  State  and  Legislature,  but  a  sufficint  number  of  Republicans 
refused  to  go  into  caucus  to  prevent  his  election.  On  the  ex- 
piration of  his  Senatorial  term  in  189-1,  he  removed  to  Seattle, 
where  he  practiced  his  profession  until  his  death,  January 
28,  1903,  from  an  attack  of  angina  pectoris. 

He  was  a  member  of  the  firm  of  Struve,  Allen,  Hughes  & 
MeMicken  during  all   this   time. 


282  THURSTON  COUNTY 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NATIVE  SON 


A  peculiar  charm  hovers  about  the  scenes  of  one's  early 
childhood ;  an  atmosphere  surrounds  them  that  ever  appeals  to 
the  adult,  and  no  matter  how  far  removed  from  the  place  of 
birth  and  boyhood,  in  later  years,  the  call  to  return,  even  for 
a  short  period,  to  renew  fond  recollections,  becomes  irresist- 
able. 

Especially  is  this  true  with  a  western  born  boy,  whose 
earliest  recollections  are  of  a  social  condition  that  was  crude, 
and  of  a  people,  though  not  of  the  caste  of  Vere  de  Vere,  were 
honest,  chivalrous  and  generous  to  a  fault.  To  the  boy  whose 
lines  were  cast  in  the  Puget  Sound  region  in  the  late  50 's  and 
early  60 's,  the  development  of  the  country  from  a  peopleless 
wilderness  to  populous  towns  and  cities  is  to  him  almost  in- 
credible, encompassed  in  so  comparatively  short  a  time. 

I  was  born  in  Olympia  before  the  great  Civil  war  was  de- 
clared. The  Capital  City  was  then  the  metropolis,  Steilacoom 
had  an  existence  stimulated  by  an  army  post  located  where  the 
asylum  now  is,  and  Seattle,  the  present  giant  of  the  Northwest, 
was  a  hamlet  composed  of  a  few  people  living  upon  their 
original  pre-emption  claims. 

Olympia 's  means  of  communication  in  those  days  was  by 
a  stage  line  to  the  South,  coaches  leaving  every  other  morn- 
ing and  returning  every  second  day,  providing  the  axles  were 
strong  enough  to  withstand  the  awful  roads.  To  the  north, 
on  the  Sound,  the  Eliza  Anderson,  a  side-wheeler,  with  a 
walking  beam,  plied,  leaving  the  head  of  the  Sound  Sunday 
night  at  12  o'clock  and  returning  some  time  during  the  latter 
part  of  the  same  week.  It  cost  one  $15  to  make  the  trip 
one  way  to  Victoria,  berths  and  meals  extra.  Each  trip  the 
old  steamer  would  go  out  loaded  with  passengers  and  freight, 
many  cattle  being  driven  in  and  shipped  this  way,  which  made 
the  route  a  very  profitable  one,  together  with  a  mail  contract, 
and  during  the  many  years  of  her  service  the  old  Anderson 
probably  earned  her  weight  in  gold.  When  the  Alaska  gold 
discovery  was  made  she  was  sent  up  to  run  on  a  northern 
route  and  was  wrecked. 


MR.   AND  MRS.  G.  C.   BLANKENSHIP 


PIONEER   REMINISCENCES  283 

An  incident  of  my  early  life  occurred,  beyond  my  recol- 
lection, but  of  which  I  was  told  by  my  parents.  My  father 
being  Sheriff  of  Thurston  County,  he  held  in  custody  an  In- 
dian named  Yelm  Jim,  who  was  held  for  murder.  In  those 
days  domestic  help  could  not  be  had.  Any  woman  arriving  in 
the  country  could  be  married  in  fifteen  minutes  if  she  so  chose, 
and  it  was  generally  noticeable  that  Barkis  was  willing.  The 
housewife  was  thus  dependent  solely  upon  the  squaws.  To 
supply  this  deficiency  in  our  own  household,  on  especially 
liard  days  for  my  mother,  my  father  would  heavily  iron  Yelm 
Jim  and  bring  him  to  the  house  as  a  playmate  for  me  and  thus 
relieve  a  tired  housekeeper  of  the  added  care  of  a  trouble- 
some child.  To  the  da.y  of  my  departure  from  home  at  the  age 
of  eighteen,  Yelm  Jim  was  my  firm  friend. 

Among  the  boys  of  those  days  still  resident  in  the  state 
were  Harry  McElroy,  well  and  favorably  known,  still  a  resi- 
dent of  Olympia ;  the  Percivals,  Sam  and  John,  well  known  in 
Thurston  County;  Sam  Woodruff,  Superintendent  of  the  Home 
for  Feeble  Minded  at  Medical  Lake ;  Sam  Crawford,  of  the 
firm  of  Crawford  &  Converj^  of  Seattle,  a  pioneer  real  estate 
firm;  Gilmore  Parker,  who  was  long  a  steamboat  man  on  the 
Sound,  and  who  recently  died  in  Seattle ;  James  P.  Ferry,  son 
of  Governor  Ferry,  now  a  resident  of  Seattle ;  the  McFaddens, 
Frank,  James,  Cal  and  Kob,  sons  of  Judge  0.  B.  McFadden, 
all  of  whom  are  still  living  except  James ;  James  Frazier,  still 
a  surveyor  in  Olympia;  the  Garfieldes,  William  and  Charles, 
the  former  dead  and  the  latter  living  in  Alaska;  H.  E.  Allen, 
a  young  brother  of  Senator  Jno.  B.  Allen,  who  was  a  promis- 
ing lawyer  in  Spokane,  but  whose  poor  health  caused  his  retire- 
ment from  the  profession  before  his  death ;  Charles  Evans, 
now  employed  in  the  city  hall  in  Tacoma ;  C.  S.  Reinhart, 
Clerk  of  the  Supreme  Court ;  Henry  Murphy,  son  of  Editor 
John  ]\I.  ]\Iurphy,  who  long  was  in  charge  of  the  mechanical 
work  on  the  Washington  Standard,  now  dead;  Theodore 
Brown,  who  died  a  few  years  ago;  Clarence  and  Alvin  Coulter; 
the  Moores,  Schooley  and  Waldo,  the  latter  of  whom  died  a 
few  years  ago ;  the  Reeds,  Thomas  and  Mark,  sons  of  Thomas 
M.  Reed,  the  former  a  resident  of  Alaska,  a  lawyer,  and  the 
latter  managing  a  large  logging  interest  in  IMason  County. 
All  more  or  less  my  companions  in  the  days  of  real  sport. 


284  THURSTON   COUNTY 

Our  education  was  undertaken  by  several  teachers,  at 
different  periods  employed  to  teach  the  district  school,  held 
in  a  two-story  building  occuping  the  northwest  corner  of  Sixth 
and  Franklin.  Among  these  educators  were  a  Mr.  Boynton, 
C.  B.  Mann,  who  long  since  deserted  the  profession  to  become 
a  business  man  and  a  successful  one ;  L.  P.  Veneu,  Miss  Gid- 
dings,  later  wife  of  Thomas  M.  Reed ;  I\Iiss  Slocum,  now  the 
wife  of  W.  E.  Boone,  a  retired  architect  of  Seattle ;  a  Mr. 
Kaj^e,  a  better  scholar  than  disciplinarian,  v-^ho  was  succeeded 
by  Freeman  Brown,  both  scholar  and  disciplinarian,  who  took 
no  pains  to  conceal  an  iron  hand  in  a  velvet  glove,  and  when 
remonstrating  with  a  refactory  pupil  Vv'as  a  cyclone  in  action. 

Then,  too,  some  of  us  attended  private  schools.  L.  P. 
Venen  long  taught  in  the  old  Odd  Fellows'  building,  on  the 
east  side  of  Washington  street,  between  Fourth  and  Fifth. 
Miss  Lord  for  a  time  taught  a  private  school.  She  came  to 
this  country  with  her  mother  in  the  old  Continental,  the  ship 
chartered  to  bring  a  large  number  of  women  from  New  Eng- 
land, Vv'hen  they  were  a  drug  on  the  market,  to  the  Territory 
of  Washington,  where  they  were  in  demand  and  were  known 
as  the  Mercer  g-irls,  a  man  by  the  name  of  Mercer  having  con- 
ceived and  executed  the  undertaking.  Many  estimable  girls 
accompanied  this  expedition  and  were  later  married  here.  Miss 
Mary  O'Neil,  still  a  resident  of  Olympia,  was  a  primary 
teacher,  as  was,  also,  Jacob  Hoover,  who  was  later  a  success- 
ful lawyer  and  banker  in  Spokane. 

There  were  no  graded  schools  then  and  the  now  expen- 
sive luxury,  the  high  school,  was  unknown.  All  were  con- 
tained in  not  to  exceed  tAvo  rooms,  where  the  a  b  c's  and 
Caesar's  Commentaries  or  Virgil  were  pursued  with  more  or 
less  vigor.  It  was  not  found  necessary  then  to  furnish  play- 
grounds and  gymnasiums,  the  former  we  boys  found  v/hen- 
ever  wanted  and  gjannastics  were  furnished  b,y  the  parents 
on  the  woodpiles  or  in  gardening,  where  youthful  exuberance 
of  spirits  was  worked  off  in  a  way  at  once  beneficial  to  the 
youngster  and  profitable  to  the  ancestor  who  boarded  him. 

Two  of  Olympia 's  boys,  brothers,  Avho  received  the  rudi- 
ments of  their  education  here,  and  desirous  of  higher  educa- 
tion, were  graduates  of  the  University  of  California,  in  a  way 
very  creditable  to  themselves,  and  worthy  of  being  mentioned. 


FIONEER  REMINISCENCES  2S5 

In  order  to  save  their  means  for  school  purposes,  they  walked 
part  of  the  way  to  California,  and  each,  on  graduation,  was 
valedictorian  of  his  class,  the  younger  brother  one  year  later 
than  the  elder.  These  boys  were  Harry  and  John  Wliitworth, 
sens  of  Eev.  Geo.  F.  Whitworth.  Harry  Whitworth  is  now 
a  civil  engineer  in  Seattle,  and  John,  who  was  a  lawyer  in 
San  Francisco,  died  all  too  young. 

The  simple  pleasures  of  those  days  were  ample.  The 
hunting  grounds  for  the  boys  of  that  time  are  built  up  with 
residences  now.  The  Des  Chutes  at  Tumwater  Falls  was  ex- 
cellent fishing  grounds,  and  salmon,  salmon  trout,  and  tom 
and  rock  cod  were  plentiful  in  Budd's  Inlet.  There  vv^ere  no 
restrictions  in  those  days  and  it  was  common  for  the  expert 
shots  to  take  stations  on  the  i\Iarshville  bridge  (to  the  vrest- 
side)  and  Swantown  bridge  (to  the  eastside)  and  shoot  the 
ducks  on  the  wing  when  passing  over  in  flocks.  Then  one 
could  even  dig  clams  whenever  or  wherever  desired  without 
being  embarrassed  with  a  trespass  sign. 

The  "public  square,"  what  is  now  Capital  Park,  v/as 
donated  by  Edmund  Sylvester  for  park  purposes,  was  a  base- 
ball grounds.  Upon  the  southeast  corner,  for  many  years, 
stood  an  old  blockhouse  which  served  as  city  bastile  and 
county  jail.  This,  as  a  place  of  retention,  Avas  exceedingly 
popular  with  the  prisoners,  as  any  one  desirous  of  taking 
leave,  tired  of  confinement,  could  easily  do  so  without  the  aid 
of  officer  or  habeas  corpus,  reh'ing  only  on  his  own  personal 
efforts. 

Swimming  was  indulged  in  promiscuously  without  the 
formalities  of  bath  houses  or  bathing  suits.  Above  the  Swan- 
town  bridge,  back  of  the  old  Barnes  residence,  was  well 
patronized,  as  was  also  a  little  wharf  in  the  rear  of  the  old 
Olympic  hall,  where  the  K.  of  P.  hall  and  the  Bolster  & 
Barnes  business  block  are  now  located.  Ladies,  desiring  to 
cross  the  bridge  for  Marsh ville,  were  well  aware  of  the  in- 
formality prevalent  among  the  boys,  and  accepted  as  estab- 
lished the  fact  that  at  any  hour  of  the  day  and  until  early 
candle  light  in  the  Summertime,  there  was  spread  out  for  her 
gaze  an  exaggerated  September  ]\Iorn  scene  which  she  could 
pretend  to  .ignore  and  go  her  way,  or  she  could  take  a  boat 
and   cross  the   bay  lower  down.     The  boys'   prerogatives   in 


286  THURSTON  COUNT-t 

this  respect  were  never  interfered  v/ith  until  later  regulation 
forbade  bathing  in  the  city  limits  without  a  bathing  suit.  The 
tideflats  were  left  as  bare  in  those  days  as  now  at  low  tides, 
and  the  impatient  boy  would  strip  and  lie  wallowing  in  the 
soft  mud  like  a  hog,  until  the  tide  came  in  and  washed  him 
off.  At  any  time  during  the  summer,  one  could  make  any 
young  hopeful  cringe  b}'  making  a  show  to  touch  him  upon 
the  back,  so  raw  was  the  average  youngster  from  exposure 
to  the  sun's  rays. 

Baseball,  during  the  early  daj^s  and  during  the  period 
of  underhanded  pitching,  was  a  favorite  amusement  and 
Olympia  alwaj's  had  a  good  club,  plenty  good  enough  to  hold 
the  championship  over  the  Victoria  club,  with  which  it  played 
several  games.  Which  suggests  an  amusing  incident :  At  the 
time  when  the  San  Juan  archipelago  was  still  in  dispute  and 
Emperor  William  had  been  accepted  by  both  sides  to  the  con- 
troversy as  umpire,  but  had  not  rendered  his  decision,  there 
was  a  big  game  to  be  played  between  Victoria  and  Olympia. 
The  Olympia  boys  were  preparing  for  their  trip  to  Victoria 
when  there  was  posted  upon  a  bulletin  board  on  a  Western 
Union  telegraph  blank,  the  following  purported  dispatch  from 
Washington:  ''Emperor  William  has  decided  to  let  the  re- 
sult of  the  coming  baseball  game  between  Olympia  and  Vic- 
toria dictate  his  decision  of  the  international  boundary  ques- 
tion." Olympia  won  and  Emperor  William  decided  in  favor 
of  the  United  States,  but  it  is  not  likely  that  he  ever  heard 
of  the  ball  game.  But  there  were  those  who  took  the  above 
dispatch  as  authentic. 

The  great  event  of  every  boy's  life — his  first  circus — T 
recall  vividly.  The  tent  was  pitched  upon  the  ground  now  oc- 
cupied by  the  Kneeland  Hotel,  Harris'  building  and  the 
Capital  National  Bank.  It  was  known  as  Bartholomew's,  and 
was  a  good  one  for  the  day.  It  was  brought  cross  country, 
and  arriving  late,  the  preparations  for  the  performance  were 
hurried.  As  a  result,  the  seats  fell  three  times,  causing  in- 
jury to  several.  After  the  third  trial  Bartholomew  appeared 
and  notified  the  people  that  he  would  refund  their  money  or 
he  would  erect  the  seats  and  make  another  trial  at  their 
pleasure.  The  true  Western  spirit  became  evident  and  the 
cry  went  up:  "Set   'em  up  again,  we'll  stay    with    you    all 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  287 

night,"  and  they  did.  The  second  circus  visiting  this  section 
came  by  water  from  Portland,  met  witli  heavy  storms  and  lost 
much  of  its  stock  and  its  performance  was  much  impaired 
from  this  fact. 

Looking  backward,  how  insignificant  incidents  impress 
one.  As  the  war  had  just  closed  and  Indian  war  spirit  had 
not  entirely  died  out,  juvenile  military  companies  were  a 
favorite  diversion,  which  suggests  an  incident,  showing  the 
great  political  sagacity  of  Schooley  Moore,  who  should  be  a 
politician  now  instead  of  a  timber  cruiser.  One  evening,  the 
youth  of  the  town  meeting  to  organize,  Schooley  Moore  had 
candidates  for  Captain  and  First  Lieutenant  which  he  desired 
to  elect.  Accordingly  he  went  to  each  member  confidentialh* 
and  whispered:  "Vote  this  ticket — Smith  for  Captain,  Treen 
for  First  Lieutenant,  yourself  for  Second  Lieutenant."  The 
result  was  that  Smith  was  elected  Captain,  Treen  First  Lieu- 
tenant and  every  other  man  in  the  company  had  a  vote  for 
Second  Lieutenant. 

This  isolated  corner  of  the  country  was  not  frequently 
visited  by  the  great  men  of  the  country,  though  I  do  remem- 
ber seeing  Wm.  H.  Seward,  the  scar  fresh  upon  his  face,  which 
the  would-be  assassin  had  placed  there,  when  the  great  na- 
tional tragedy  was  enacted,  after  he  had  spoken  in  the  old 
Tacoma  Hall,  where  the  K.  of  P.  lodge  room  is  now.  And 
later  I  remember  of  an  evening  when  the  people  of  Olympia 
were  to  be  addressed  from  wagons,  which  had  been  drawn 
up  about  the  corner  of  Main  and  Third  Streets,  where  the 
old  Pacific  Hotel  then  stood.  Boy-like,  I  was  to  the  fore  and 
occupied  a  seat  I  found  vacant  in  one  of  the  wagons.  I  was 
somewhat  astonished  later  when  a  gentleman  near  me  arose 
and  began  to  speak.  I  found  out  afterward  that  the  man  was 
Schuyler  Colfax,  afterwards  Speaker  of  the  House  of  Represent- 
atives, and  still  more  recently  Vice  President,  with  President 
Grant. 

I  recall  the  half-masting  of  the  flags  over  public  build- 
ings here  when  the  news  of  Lincoln's  assassination  was  re- 
ceived, but  was  hardly  able  to  appreciate  the  full  import  of 
the  deed,  or  to  fully  sjmipathize  Avith  the  deep  feeling  enter- 
tained by  our  patriotic  citizens.  I  recollect  that  the  old  Pres- 
byterian Church  was  effectively  decorated  for  the  Sunday  fol- 


288  THURSTON  COUNTY 

lowing  the  assassination  in  the  national  colors  and  black.  Con- 
siderable feeling  was  aroused  in  the  chnrch  by  this  act  of  the 
pastor. 

At  the  age  of  fourteen  I  entered  upon  a  political  career, 
brief  and  unsuccessful.  The  federal  government  allowed  the 
Territorial  Legislature,  for  the  first  time,  to  employ  a  page. 
My  grandfather  was  a  member  of  the  House,  which  gave  me 
a  ''pull,"  and  I  became  an  active  candidate  for  the  place. 
The  caucus  was  held  before  the  Walla  Walla  delegation  ar- 
rived, and  I  was  successful.  Hillory  Butler,  then  well  ad- 
vanced in  years,  afterward  a  King  County  capitalist,  r\dio 
owned  the  Butler  Hotel,  was  caucus  choice  for  Sergeant-at- 
arms,  and  all  went  merrily  on  until  the  arrival  of  the  Walla 
Walla  delegation,  who  announced  they  had  a  candidate  for 
Sergeant-at-arms  who  must  be  landed.  They  were  too  strong 
to  be  denied.  This  caused  the  displacement  of  Mr.  Butler, 
and,  as  his  Seattle  property  had  not  become  as  valuable  as 
it  did  later,  he  was  of  necessity  in  line  for  a  place.  Under 
these  circumstances  I  v/as  removed  and  Mr.  Butler  given  the 
pageship,  which  he  had  good  reason  to  regret  later,  for 
Francis  Henry,  who  was  a  member  of  the  House  from  Thurs- 
ton County,  cartooned  him  most  unmercifully  in  his  juvenile 
occupation,  which  quite  hurt  the  feelings  of  the  dignifierl 
Hillory  Butler,  who  was  a  Southerner  of  the  old  school. 

Of  the  boys  who  figured  as  my  youthful  companions  Sam 
Woodruff  stands  out  as  a  bright  particular  star.  Gifted  in 
many  ways  Sam  was  always  a  stellar  attraction  in  all  Euter- 
pian  and  Thespian  events  by  local  talent.  Sam  and  I  were 
bunkies  for  j-ears  and  during  this  time  conceived  the  idea  of 
becoming  cranberry  merchants,  gathering  our  product  from 
the  vicinity  of  Black  Lake.  Accordingly,  one  bright  morn- 
ing, we  started  out  for  the  lake  with  our  utensils  packed  upon 
the  back  of  a  buckskin  cayuse.  We  were  not  experts  in  mak- 
ing the  diamond  hitch,  so  familiar  to  the  woodsman,  but  the 
horse  was  covered  after  a  fashion,  with  blankets,  frying  pans, 
cups,  etc.  For  convenience  Sam  had  tied  the  halter,  by  which 
he  was  leading  the  horse,  to  his  belt.  Bej^ond  Tumwater  a 
hornet  came  in  violent  contact  with  our  pack  animal,  who 
started  to  run,  and  as  Sam  was  securely  attached,  he  ran,  too. 
Whereupon  the  loosely  packed  kitchen  utensils  commenced  to 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  289 

rattle,  and  then  it  may  be  fairly  stated  that  that  cayuse  be- 
came frantic.  There  was  a  split  in  the  atmosphere  and  that 
animal  was  gone.  With  a  very  taut  halter,  Sam  went  along — 
not  that  he  wanted  to,  but  more  because  the  impulse  was  ir- 
resistible. As  m}'  partner  was  aware  his  life  depended  upon 
his  keeping  on  his  feet,  he  did  so,  but  in  so  doing  it  is  no  ex- 
aggeration to  state  that  in  following  his  leader  he  touched 
only  the  very  high  places.  Following  along,  picking  up  the 
scattered  cooking  utensils  as  they  dropped  from  the  fright- 
ened animal,  I  would  see  the  firm  impact  of  Sam's  heel  in  the 
sand  here  and  there,  about  twenty-five  feet  apart,  till  the  ex- 
hausted animal  stopped  of  his  own  accord  and  saved  my  part- 
ner's life,  for  it  is  sure  that  if  Sam  had  gone  down  he  would 
have  been  dragged  to  death,  and  the  State  of  Washington 
would  have  lost  the  best  institution  man  that  it  has  had. 

The  girls  of  our  time — at  least  some  of  them — have  more 
or  less  distinguished  themselves. 

Among  these  I  recall  Annie  Pixley,  who  became  a  fam- 
ous actress.  Her  father,  in  the  early  days,  barn-stormed  the 
country,  using  Annie  and  her  sister  Minnie  as  stellar  attrac- 
tions. Their  specialties  were  song  and  dances  and  very  good 
they  were.  In  off  professional  seasons  Pixley  ran  a  sort  of  a 
merry-go-round.  I  recall  being  struck  and  knocked  out  by 
one  of  the  imitation  horses.  When  brought  around  I  found 
my  head  pillowed  in  the  pretty  Annie's  lap.  In  later  years, 
when  I  saw  her  as  the  buxom  Gretchen,  playing  to  Joseph 
Jefferson's  ''Rip  Van  Winkle,"  I  felt  not  at  all  disinclined  to 
be  kicked  by  a  mule,  in  order  to  be  resuscitated  by  so  fair 
a  means. 

May  Tilley,  daughter  of  Rice  Tilley,  a  well-to-do  livery 
man,  who  long  ran  a  business  in  the  old  barn  removed  to  make 
room  for  the  new  city  hall,  became  the  Countess  Starva,  and 
as  such  attracted  considerable  attention  with  her  beauty.  She 
died  a  few  years  ago,  leaving  a  considerable  fortune  to  her 
brothers,  Frank  and  Guy,  Olympia  boys. 

There  lived  down  the  bay,  on  the  east  side,  many  years 
ago,  a  truck  gardener,  who  came  to  town  frequently  with  the 
products  of  his  garden,  and,  after  disposing  of  them  would 
return  home,  frequently'  "stewed."  He  had  a  squaw  wife. 
Our  little  village  was  somewhat  exercised  when  we  learned 


290  THURSTON  COUNTY 

that  in  a  circus  about  to  come  to  the  town  there  was  a  lady 
bareback  rider,  Linda  Jeal,  and  that  she  was  the  daughter  of 
"our  old  Jeal."  It  was  a  proud  day  for  the  old  man  when 
he  came  to  town,  accompanied  by  his  squaw  wife  in  brig'ht 
array.  The  talented  daughter,  be  it  said  to  her  credit,  gave 
the  old  man  a  gracious  reception. 

At  the  same  time  there  was  on  our  theatrical  circuit  a 
monologue  artist,  singer  and  dancer,  named  Charles  Vivian. 
He  was  an  exceptionally  handsome  Englishman,  talented  and 
well  educated.  He  was  the  father  of  the  Elks.  Vivian  was 
a  great  favorite  on  the  Sound.  After  the  show,  when  he  had 
taken  himself  to  a  saloon  for  refreshment,  he  was  especially 
entertaining.  I  remember  him  telling  with  great  glee  how  Jeal 
had  tried  to  persuade  him  to  marry  the  fair  Linda,  graphi- 
cally portraying  how  profitable  could  be  made  the  combined 
talents  of  the  couple. 

Woven  into  the  w^oof  of  the  life  of  Lucky  Baldwin  were 
the  lives  of  two  Olympia-born  girls — one  shot  him,  the  other 
married  him.  After  Baldwin  had  acquired  his  immense  for- 
tune, he  met  Verona  Baldwin,  daughter  of  A.  J.  Baldwin,  a 
pioneer  of  Thurston  County.  He  persuaded  her  to  go  to  his 
ranch  in  Southern  California,  there  to  teach  school.  For  some 
injury — fancied  or  real — that  Verona  experienced  there,  she 
shot  Lucky  on  the  stairway  of  his  own  hotel,  the  Baldwin,  in 
San  Francisco.  In  1857-8  there  was  here  a  man  named  A.  A. 
Bennett,  who,  for  a  short  time  engaged  in  contracting  and 
building.  While  here  a  daughter  w^as  born  to  ]\Irs.  Bennett, 
after  which  they  moved  to  San  Francisco,  where  Mr.  Bennett 
opened  an  office  as  an  architect.  Lucky  Baldwin  secured  his 
services  for  some  work  on  his  Southern  California  ranch.  The 
architect  took  his  very  pretty  daughter,  Lily,  with  him  for 
a  trip.  Thus  it  was  that  during  the  time  Mr.  Bennett  was 
engaged  in  his  professional  services,  the  fair  Lily,  a  young 
woman  of  hardly  thirty,  met  Lucky  Baldwin,  aged  sixty  or 
over,  with  a  reputation  that  would  shame  any  one,  and  they 
were  married.  Notwithstanding  the  fact  that  Baldwin  was 
over  sixty  when  married,  he  lived  for  many  years  thereafter, 
and  when  he  committed  the  only  commendable  act  of  his  life 
by  dying,  Lily  Baldwin  shared  in  his  estate  to  the  extent  of 
$800,000,  so  the  newspapers  said.    But  she  had  earned  it. 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  291 


A  RELUCTANT  BRIDEGROOM 


At  one  time  there  appeared  in  Olympia  a  man  calling  him- 
self Charles  Henry  DeWolf,  claiming  to  be  a  physician,  who 
delivered  a  course  of  lectures  on  phrenology,  free  love  and 
kindred  subjects.  During  his  career  in  Olympia,  Charles  Henry 
contracted  what  he  called  a  conjugal  alliance  and  matrimonial 
copartnership,  which  w^as  announced  as  follows: 

"Married — At  the  house  of  the  bride's  parents,  Dr.  C.  H. 
DeWolf  of  Philadelphia,  Pa.,  to  Eliza  A.  Hurd,  of  Olympia,  in 
the  following  manner:  'We,  the  undersigned,  hereby  announce 
to  the  world  that  we  have  contracted  a  conjugal  alliance  and 
entered  into  a  matrimonial  copartnership,  believing  in  the  di- 
vine right  of  souls  to  dictate  their  own  forms  and  the  inspira- 
tion of  Mother  Nature  and  Father  God  as  being  above  custom, 
and  priestly  ceremony,  however  long  dignified  by  legal  enact- 
ment and  Christian  dictation.  This  act  we  perform,  taking  up- 
on ourselves  the  responsibility  in  the  presence  of  these  wit- 
nesses, whose  names  accompany  our  own  on  this  public  declara- 
tion      Made  this  13th  day  of  May,  1862. 

Eliza  Ann  Hurd. 
Witnesses:  Charles  Henry  DeWolf. 

H.  R.  Woodard. 

Salome  Woodard. 

B.  F.  Brown. 

Mary  Brown." 

On  Sunday  night  Charles  Henry  and  his  new  partner,  went 
to  the  home  of  the  bride's  parents,  intending  to  take  the  early 
morning  boat  down  Sound.  The  deputy  sheriff  went  aboard  the 
boat  and  intercepted  the  party. 

On  the  w^harf  at  Olympia  had  been  erected  a  temporary 
observatory,  a  field  glass,  mounted  on  a  tripod,  and  many  were 
the   scientific   observers. 

About  11  o'clock  the  same  day,  DeWolf  was  arraigned  be- 
fore Justice  Bigelow,  plead  not  guilty  to  a  charge  of  violating 
the  matrimonial  law.  El  wood  Evans  appeared  for  the  Terri- 
torv  and   defendant  for  himself. 


292  THURSTON   COUNTY 

Charles  Henry  DeWolf,  M.  D.,  F.  F.  L.  S.,  and  a  minister 
of  the  gospel,  had  a  right  to  marry  himself,  he  declared,  and 
then  let  loose  a  Pandora's  box.  this  ingenious,  self-possessed 
unscrupulous  dog.  The  peacock,  whose  little  heart  is  one  beat- 
ing pulse  of  vanit}^,  was  not  more  vain.  He  assumed  to  de- 
sire martyrdom  at  the  hands  of  "sneaking,  lying,  peddling, 
begging  clerical  sons  of  Ahab ;  the  drunken  Justices  and  be- 
sotted Judges  and  their  black-hearted  and  villainous  sup- 
porters." 

Judge  Bigelow  bound  the  defendants  over  in  the  sum  of 
$1000  to  appear  before  the  district  court,  and  the  bride's  father 
furnished  the  bail  and  released  the  gay  Don  Juan  and  his 
victim. 

Tuesday  Charles  Henry  was  apprehended  on  a  charge  of 
open  and  notorious  fornication  and  sent  to  jail.  On  trial  he 
repeated  his  former  wild  talk.  He  would  never  be  married 
by  a  lawful  party.  It  was  degrading  to  his  manhood  to  think 
of  it.  He  would  bow  to  no  "fawTiing,  hypocritical,  thieving 
priest ;  no  drunken,  mercenary  justice  or  corrupt  judge  for 
the  senseless  words:  'I  pronounce  you  man  and  wife.'  Olym- 
pians were  incapable  of  appreciating  his  high  motives.  Future 
generations  would  recognize  his  mart^Tdom." 

Judge  McGill  said  he  would  ask  a  few  questions  which 
would  materially  bear  upon  his  decision. 

"Do  you,"  he  said,  "consent  to  take  this  woman  as  your 
wedded  wife?" 

"I  do." 

"And  do  you,"  to  the  woman,  "consent  to  take  this  man 
as  your  lawful  husband?" 
'  "Yes." 

"Then,"  said  the  Justice,  cooly,  "by  virtue  of  the  power 
vested  in  me,  in  the  presence  of  these  witnesses,  pronounce  you 
man  and  wife." 

If  you  ever  saw  a  hailstorm,  thunder  and  lightning  both 
included ;  if  you  ever  saw  the  briny  ocean,  with  the  waves  in 
high  commotion,  rise  like  unto  snow-capped  mountains,  that 
was  Chas.  Henry. 

"You  can't  come  that  dodge  on  me,"  the  reluctant  bride- 
groom shouted,  but  cooled  down  when  threatened  with  fine 
for  contempt. 


PIONEER   REMINISCENCES  293 

The  Justice  dismissed  the  charges  against  DeAVolf,  who 
paid  the  costs.  Charles  Henry  was  married  by  a  Justice  and 
his  free  love  career  brought  to  an  end.  The  current  news- 
paper has  this  notice. 

"]\Iarried — By  Henry  McGill,  in  the  Justice  Court,  Wed- 
nesday, May  21,  1862,  Charles  Henry  DeWolf  and  Mrs.  Eliza 
Kurd." 

"Be  virtuous  and  you  will  be  happy."  Thus  did  tlie 
worthy  pioneers  resent  the  intrusion  of  an  unscruplous  char- 
latan upon  an  worthy  family  and  saved  from  dishonor  an 
illusionized  but  virtuous  woman. 


Although  the  Eastern  people  regarded  the  extreme  west  as 
wild  and  woolly,  and  do  so  still  to  a  less  extent,  yet  the  fact 
remains  that  the  standard  of  civilization  has  always  been  held 
high.  The  country  from  the  first  was  peopled  by  an  educated 
and  refined,  but  hardy  people,  who,  with  the  courage  of  their 
convictions,  held  morality  in  great  esteem,  especially  as  applied 
to  the  integrity  of  the  home,  and  enforced  its  recognition  with 
rigid  firmness. 

I  recall  a  man  living  in  the  primitive  Olympia,  who  had 
a  large  family  and  was  brutal  in  his  treatment  of  both  wife 
and  children.  The  ladies  of  the  town  held  a  mass  meeting  and 
addressed  a  letter  to  the  brute,  notifying  him  to  mend  his  ways 
or  be  treated  to  a  coat  of  tar  and  feathers,  preparatory  to  being 
conducted  to  the  city  limits.  The  man  took  the  delicate  hint 
and  left  town  soon  after.  There  are  old  ladies  living  in  Olym- 
pia today  who  signed  that  letter. 


294  THURSTON  COUNTY 


GEORGE  D.  SHANNON 


Among  the  men  most  prominently  identified  with  the 
financial  development  of  Olympia  was  George  D.  Shannon, 
who  was  one  of  the  leading  spirits  in  the  organization  of  the 
Olympia  Light  &  Power  Company.  Mr.  Shannon  sank  a  very 
comfortable  fortune  in  this  enterprise,  which,  although  dis- 
astrous in  the  eventual  outcome  to  the  original  promoters,  was 
one  of  the  most  important  steps  ever  taken  in  Olympia 's  de- 
velopment. 

In  the  year  1870  I\Ir.  Shannon  was  appointed  superintend- 
ent of  construction  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad,  when 
that  line  was  being  built  between  Kalama  and  Taeoma,  and 
at  that  time  came  to  Olympia  to  make  his  home.  After  spend- 
ing a  few  years  in  the  city,  he  became  the  owner  of  the 
magnificent  farm  of  11,000  acres  on  the  Nesqually  bottom.  Here 
he  lived  for  about  twenty  years  lavishly  entertaining  the  fore- 
most men  of  the  State,  and  being  generally  regarded  as  a  prince 
of  good  fellows,  highly  respected  and  liked  for  his  sterling 
qualities. 

In  the  late  '80s  Mr.  Shannon,  with  others  organized  the 
Olympia  Light  &  Power  Co.,  and  was  also  one  of  the  original 
incorporators  of  the  First  National  Bank  of  Olympia,  of  which 
institution  he  was  a  trustee  at  the  time  of  his  death. 

Soon  after  Mr.  Shannon's  arrival  in  Olympia  he  became 
the  warm  personal  friend  of  Governor  E.  P.  Ferry,  and  through 
that  executive  was  appointed  a  member  of  the  State  Building 
Committee  and  was  acting  on  the  Board  of  Trustees  of  the 
Western  Washington  Hospital  for  Insane  at  the  time  the  main 
hospital  building  was  erected. 

While  on  a  visit  to  the  World's  Exposition  of  1876,  Mr. 
Shannon  was  married  to  I\Iiss  ]\lary  A.  Kennedy,  of  Cleveland. 
Ohio,  and  brought  his  bride  to  the  West  with  him  upon  his 
return. 

George  D.  Shannon  was  a  native  of  New  York,  and  was 
born  in  the  year  1882.    At  the  early  age  of  16  the  young  man 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES 


295 


started  in  a  railroad  career,  working  his  way  up  until  in  1858 
he  was  appointed  superintendent  of  construction  of  the  Winona 
&  St.  Peters  Railroad,  on  the  completion  of  which  ]\Ir.  Shannon 
was  made  conductor  on  the  first  passenger  train  ever  run 
west  of  the  ]\Iississippi  in  Minnesota.  He  followed  railroad- 
ing in  that  state  until  1868,  and  subsequently  engaged  in  rail- 
road contracting  in  New  York,  Indiana  and  Wisconsin. 

Mr.  Shannon  was  a  32d  Degree  j\Iason  and  upon  the  occa- 
sion of  his  death  in  1895  the  ]\Iasonic  Fraternity  from  all  over 
the  State  gathered  in  Olympia  to  honor  their  brother.  The 
funeral  services  were  in  charge  of  this  brotherhood  and  the 
interment  was  in  Masonic  Cemetery. 

Mrs.  Shannon  made  her  home  in  Olj'^mpia  after  the  death 
of  her  husband  until  1905  when  she,  too,  answered  the  last 
summons. 


296  THURSTON   COUNTY 


P.  M.  TROY'S  REMINISCENCES  OF  THE  OLYMPIA 
COLLEGIATE  INSTITUTE 


Among  the  foremost  of  the  educational  institutions  of  the 
earlier  Territorial  days  was  the  Olympia  Collegiate  Institute, 
and  the  associations  and  remembrances  of  that  school  are  still 
treasured  in  the  minds  of  many  of  the  foremost  men  and 
women  of  the  now  flourishing  State  of  Washington. 

Desiring  a  sketch  of  this  once  famous  place  of  learning, 
the  compiler  requested  Mr.  P.  M.  Troy  to  contribute  a  chapter 
of  his  reminiscences  as  an  attendant  at  the  0.  C.  I.,  which 
request  that  gentleman  very  kindly  complied  with. 

Reminiscences  of  O.  C.  I.  at  the  Time  When  I  Knew  It. 

I  came  to  the  school  in  the  Autumn  of  1888.  L.  E.  Fol- 
lenbee  was  then  principal.  L.  P.  Venen  was  the  instructor  in 
Greek,  Latin  and  the  higher  mathematics.  A  Professor  W.  H. 
Lewis  was  in  charge  of  the  primary  department.  John  L. 
Henderson  was  principal  of  the  commercial  department.  There 
was  also  a  music  teacher,  whose  name  I  now  forget.  There 
were  between  two  and  three  hundred  students.  It  was  then 
the  first  school  in  the  Territory.  There  was  a  normal  course, 
and  a  commercial  course.  I  attended  this  school  from  the  Fall 
of  1888  to  the  Summer  of  1890,  when  I  was  graduated  from 
the  normal  department. 

Among  those  who  were  in  attendance  when  I  was  there 
were  Mr.  W.  C.  Hazzard,  now  living  in  Wisconsin,  and  for- 
merly Superintendent  of  the  Olympia  schools ;  A.  C.  St.  John, 
now  a  prominent  merchant  of  Chehalis ;  Joel  E.  Stearns,  now 
a  county  official  at  Chehalis;  Harris  Ward,  now  a  minister  in 
the  M.  E.  Church ;  C.  B.  Seeley,  also  a  minister  in  the  M.  E. 
Church ;  C.  V.  Leach,  subsequently  County  Clerk  of  Thurston 
County,  and  now  an  official  in  the  postoffice  at  Olympia, 
Washington ;  A.  L.  Callow,  subsequently  County  Clerk  and 
County  Auditor  of  Thurston,  now  a  merchant  at  Elma ;  Miss 
Nellie  Trewick,  who  subsequently  became  Mrs.  Geo.  H.  Gilpen. 
now  residing  in  Portland,  Oregon ;  Miss  Emma  Campbell,  who 


PIONEER    REMINISCENCES  297 

subsequeutly  became  ilrs.  ]\I.  B.  Christopher,  of  Bellingham ; 
^liss  Olive  Parker,  now  Mrs.  Olive  AVoods,  of  Waitsbiirg, 
AVash. ;  Miss  Lavira  ]Marr,  now  Mrs.  A.  C.  St.  John  of  Chehalis ; 
Miss  IMary  Chilberg,  who  subsequently  became  Mrs.  A.  L. 
Callow ;  Miss  Eva  Sturclevant,  who  subsequently  became  Mrs. 
P.  M.  Troy;  ^Miss  Jessie  Barr,  who  subsequently  became  Mrs. 
Geo.  S.  Hopkins,  and  George  S.  Hopkins,  now  a  prominent 
coal  operator  at  RoshTi,  Washington;  W.  W.  Hopkins,  since 
prominent  in  Thurston  County  politics;  D.  S.  Troy,  who  is  now 
State  Senator  from  Chimacum;  Arthur  E.  Cornelius,  a  farmer 
at  La  Conner  and  many  others  whom  I  cannot  now  think  of. 

The  school  reached  its  high  tide  during  the  summer  of 
1890.  There  was  a  change  in  the  management  in  the  autumn 
of  1890  and  the  school  flourished  during  the  next  year,  1891, 
but  with  the  oncoming  of  hard  times  it  went  under.  Then, 
when  the  State  of  "Washington  was  admitted,  there  was  a  cor- 
responding rise  of  the  State  University,  and  a  corresponding 
decline  of  private  institutions. 

The  Oh'mpia  Collegiate  Institute  was  a  flourishing  school 
in  Olympia,  Washington,  for  many  years,  and  as  I  said  before, 
for  a  number  of  years  was  the  leading  educational  institution 
of  the  Territory  of  Washington. 

L.  E.  Follansbee  was  followed  as  President  of  the  school 
by  Rev.  M.  A.  Covington,  in  the  autumn  of  1890,  and  a  com- 
plete new  teaching  force  took  charge  of  affairs  that  autumn. 
C.  V.  Leach  took  Prof.  Lewis'  place  in  the  fall  of  1889,  in  the 
primary  department. 


298  THURSTON  COUNTY 


BUILDING  A  PIONEER  MEETIN'  HOUSE 


The  story  of  how  the  Rev.  J.  F.  DeVore  built  the  first 
Methodist  Church  on  Puget  Sound  is  a  well  known  one  to 
the  Thurston  County  pioneers.  Rev.  DeVore  went  to  Capt. 
Crosby,  owner  of  the  first  saw  mill  on  the  Sound,  and  asked 
the  doughty  captain  how  much  lumber  he  was  willing  to  con- 
tribute towards  the  erection  of  a  new  church  in  Olympia.  "As 
much  as  you  will  raft  in  one  day  into  the  waters  of  the  Des 
Chutes  River  with  your  own  hands,"  replied  the  captain,  with 
a  sarcastic  smile,  regarding  with  no  great  degree  of  favor  the 
scholarly-looking  man  before  him.  "Very  well,  I  thank  you 
in  behalf  of  the  church, and  will  be  on  hand  in  the  morning," 
said  the  preacher. 

How  well  this  servant  of  God  performed  his  part  of  the 
contract  is  told  in  verse  by  a  native  daughter  of  Thurston 
County,  Lilla  Spirlock,  as  related  to  her  while  she  was  a  child, 
by  "Squire  Plum,"  one  of  the  old  landmarks  of  the  early 
civilization  of  this  county — long  since  gone  to  his  reward.  The 
building  erected  with  the  rafted  timber  is  now  Ep worth  Hall, 
situated  on  Fifth  street,  south  of  the  original  location  on  Fourth 
street,  where  it  was  removed  many  years  ago  to  the  site  of  the 
new  M.  E.  Church  and  when  that  was  built,  to  the  rear  part  of 
the  lot  where  it  now  stands.  It  was  built  in  the  early  50 's, 
and  nearly  all  the  lumber  used  in  construction  was  rafted  by 
the  interpid  clergyman  from  the  Tumwater  mill — the  first  saw 
mill  on  Puget  Sound — owned  by  Capt.  Crosby. 

When  the  West  was  all  new  and  the  frontier  life 
Bristled  with  dangers  for  children  and  wife. 
When  obstacles  met  within   those  early  days. 
Were  oft  hard  to  overcome  by  primitive  ways; 
When  I  was  a  child  on  Squire  Plum's  knee, 
He  would  tell  stories  of  the  wild  woods  to  me, 
The  ruggedest  kinds  of  wild  frontier  tales, 
'Bout  Indian  scouting  with  savage  detail. 
And  when  I  was  good — didn't  bother  his  curls — 
As  good  as  could  be,  like  his  own  little  girls. 
He'd  sing   me  songs,  then   tell  other  things 
And  memory  and  heart  around  them  still  clings. 

Now  the  one  I  relate,  I  remember  so  well, 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  299 

And  hear  the  quaint  laugh  when  he  chanced  it  to  tell, 

How  "Preacher  DeVore,"   as  he  called  him  then, 

Tackled   Cap   Crosby  while  saving   souls   of  men. 

For  he  needed  a  meeting  house  so  very  bad 

And  lack  of  which  made  the  old  preacher  sad 

For  the  zealous  old  man  with  his  Godlike  grace, 

With  strength  for  a  prayer  or  a  danger  to  face. 

Found  skeptical  brethren  among  his  flock 

Who  hesitated  long  the  purse  to  unlock. 

But  strong  in  the  faith  that  the  good  Lord  willed, 

He  firmly  determined   that  church  to  build. 

Now  there  lived  within  that  little  town 

Where  the  river  flows  and  o'er  falls  leaps  down, 

An  old  sea  captain,  who'd  forsook  the  brine. 

And  had  built  a  mill  where  the  falls  incline. 

He,  jolly  old  soul,  liked  a  sailor's  yarn. 

Oft   breathed   words    like   unsanctified   "consarn," 

But  then,  when  the  minister  came  one  day. 

With  the  meeting  house  project  to  display. 

Asked  how  much  he  meant  to  give  to  the  Lord, 

It's  rumored  the  old  Captain  almost  "swored" 

Declaring  all  preachers  were  drones  in  the  swarm 

And  labored  with  tongue  and  not  with  arm. 

But  the  preacher  knew  the  captain's  rough  way. 

That  patience  was  needed  when  the  Lord  was  to  pay. 

So  at  last  old  cap  had  promised  most  fair. 

He'd  willingly  give  to  the  Lord  his  share 

All   the  lumber  he'd   carry   away 

And  set  afloat  at  the  head  of  the  bay 

From  dawn  to  eve  of  a  long  summer's  day. 

The  dominie,  with   a  glint  in   the  eye. 

Said  t'was  a  sin  to  let  such  a  chance  pass  by. 

Now  the  mill's  "furder,"  said  old   Squire  Plum, 

As  he  patted  his  curls  with  his  finger  and  thumb. 

Than  two  hundred  yards  from  the  water's  edge, 

And  lumber  as  heavy  as  an  old  iron  sledge 

For  'twas  green  and  filled  with  water  and  pitch. 

And  might   baffle   to   "tote"   the   wits  of  a   witch. 

But  the  dominie  murmured  a  "Thank  you,  sir," 

And   grimly   strode   to   where   neighbors   were. 

And  there  he  supped  and  stayed  all  night, 

''Arising,"    Squire    says,    "with   the    first    dawn    of   light," 

And  prayed  to  the  Lord  for  strength  for  his  work, 

(Tho'  he  had   no  need  and  was  not  a  shirk 

When  duty  hath  called  for  a  man  to  go 

In  marriage,  death,  or  through  rain  or  snow) 

So  he  hoisted  the  sills  on  his  shoulder  broad, 

Likewise  framed  timbers  that  the  captain  had  sawed. 

And  down  to  the  water  he  carried  them  all 

And  tied  them  secure  from  tide's  rise  and  fall. 

And  all  day  long  with  his  faith  all  afire. 

Backward  and   forward  o'er  the  deep   mire, 


300  THURSTON   COUNTY 

He  carried  each  piece  that  built  that  place 

Where  his  flock  might  listen  to  words  of  grace. 

E'en  refusing  the  captain's  bid  to  dine 

Least  the  work  might  lag  while  the  sun  did  shine, 

Eating  his  bite  of  a  sandwich  or  two, 

And  still  toted  lumber  the  whole  day  through. 

While  the  captain  heaved  a  mournful   sigh, 

And  repressed  an  oath,  while  he  smiled  quite  sly. 

Then  he  said,  in  respect  to  the  man  of  the  cloth, 

"The  Lord  in  him  has  none  of  the  sloth," 

And  when  night  fell  over  that  little  town. 

This  minister  pulled  his  shirt  sleeves  down 

O'er  the  hairy  arms  of  his   strength   and   brawn. 

Then  thanked  the  Lord  and  rested  till  dawn. 

He  had  gathered  all  lumber  for  the  best  church  in  the  West 

And  for  that  act  of  devotion  he  always  was  blest. 

The  writer  of  this  poem,  Lilla  Spirlock,  vv^as  the  daughter 
of  one  of  Thurston  County's  pioneer  families,  Avho  for  many 
years  made  their  home  at  Plum  Station.  The  mother,  Qlrs. 
Cordelia  Spirlock,  came  to  Washington  when  but  a  child  of 
twelve  years,  in  company  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  E.  B.  Plum,  after 
whom  that  section  of  the  county  was  named,  and  the  "Squire 
Plum"  mentioned  in  the  poem. 


MRS.  JOHN  G.  SPARKS 


Mrs.  John  G.  Sparks — Grandma  Sparks,  as  she  is  affec- 
tionately called  hy  her  intimates — was  born  and  christened 
Margaret  Isabella  Scott,  in  the  year  of  1820.  She  was  a  na- 
tive of  South  Carolina,  but  removed  with  her  family  to 
Georgia  when  she  was  but  five  years  of  age  and  later  lived 
in  Arkansas.  In  18-41  she  was  married  to  AVilliam  A.  Brewer 
of  that  state.  From  this  union  ten  children  Avere  born,  six 
of  whom  are  still  living:  Mrs.  Martha  A.  Crowe,  of  Walla 
Walla ;  John  F.  Brewer,  of  Eugene,  Oregon ;  Mrs.  Ed.  Harris 
of  Boisfort,  Washington;  Mrs.  A.  C.  Sherwood,  of  Satsop; 
James  H.  Brewer,  of  Taeoma,  and  Llrs.  C.  B.  Mann,  of 
Olympia. 


PIONEER   REMINISCENCES  301 

Mrs.  Mann,  in  speaking  of  her  mother's  life,  said:  "The 
further  West  spirit  was  in  the  blood  of  father  and  mother 
when  they  were  young  and  full  of  energy,  and  breathed  ever 
stronger  and  stronger  from  the  air  of  the  early  50 's.  So  on 
i\Iarch  16,  1853,  this  heroic  pair,  with  their  small  children, 
started  by  wagon  over  the  Old  Oregon  Trail  to  the  far-off 
North  Pacific  coast. 

"When  we  talk  of  hardships  in  our  lives  we  ought  to 
blush  with  shame  when  we  compare  our  trials  with  the  dan- 
gers and  difficulties  encountered  by  this  young  couple.  Eight 
long,  weary  months  on  the  way  from  their  old  home  were 
they  until  they  finally  reached  Eugene,  Oregon,  in  Novem- 
ber. Once  they  never  tasted  bread  for  five  weeks ;  once, 
when  they  were  travelling  through  a  narrow  valley,  five  hun- 
dred Indians  seemed  to  rise  from  the  ground  and,  surrounding 
the  frightened  emigrants,  demanded  all  their  food.  The  red- 
skins enforced  their  demands  by  stampeding  all  the  emigrants' 
cattle  and  shooting  a  buffalo  calf.  It  was  only  after  a  pow- 
Avow  lasting  nearly  all  day  that  the  Indians  were  shown  that 
the  party  would  all  starve  if  robbed  of  their  supplies  that  a 
final  agreement  was  reached  that  the  emigrants  would  give 
the  robbers  one-half  of  all  their  food  and  provisions  if  they 
would  not  further  molest  them.  Every  article  of  food  which 
the  emigrants  were  carrying  with  them  to  sustain  life  in  the 
new  country — flour,  bacon,  dried  fruit,  corn  meal — everything, 
was  impartially  divided  before  the  Indians  would  allow  the 
Darty  to  proceed  on  their  way. 

"On  the  trip  a  son  was  born  to  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Brewer. 
'My  husband  was  kind.'  said  mother,  'and  wished  to  lay  by 
for  a  few  days,  but  I  said,  'no,  just  put  a  feather  bed  in  the 
bottom  of  the  wagon  and  drive  on.  He  did  so  and  all  was 
well  with  me.'  " 

In  1858  Mr.  Brewer  died,  leaving  the  wife  with  a 
large  family  of  small  children  dependent  upon  her.  In 
1860  the  family  moved  to  Grand  Mound,  Thurston  County, 
thus  giving  the  mother  and  children  the  right  to  be  numbered 
among  the  pioneers  of  this  county. 

Mrs.  Brewer  was  afterwards  married  to  Henry  L.  Pal- 
miter,  who  died  in  1867.     Later  on  she  was  niarrii'd  to  John 


302  THURSTON   COUNTY 

Gr.    Sparks   of   Olympia,   where   she    afterwards   resided   until 
+he  time  of  her  death  in  March,  1913. 

At  the  time  of  her  death  it  was  said  by  one  who  loved 
"Grandma  Sparks":  "In  laying  away  the  body  in  which  her 
heroic  spirit  had  dwelt  for  over  ninety-two  years  we  parted 
with  one  who  was  strong,  cheery,  courageous  and  religious.  We 
shall  miss  her." 


EARLY  NEWSPAPERS 


The  Columbian  was  first  printed  in  a  small  building  im- 
mediately opposite  where  the  Washington  Standard  was  printed 
for  so  many  years,  by  T.  F.  :\IcElroy  and  J.  W.  Wiley.  The 
name  of  the  Columbian,  in  its  second  year,  was  changed  to 
the  Pioneer.  A  few  years  later  R.  A.  Doyle  bought  the  ma- 
terial for  another  newspaper,  l)ut  it  was  merged  into  the 
Pioneer,  which  afterward  appeared  as  the  }*ioneer  and  Demo- 
crat. This  journal  continued  publication  until  1861.  The 
material  afterward  passed  into  the  hands  successively  of  A.  ]M. 
Poe,  Poe  &  Watson,  Wilson  &  Head,  B.  F.  Kendall,  Abbott 
&  Co.,  and  was  used  by  all  these  firms  in  the  publication  of 
the  Overland  Press,  a  semi-weekly  paper,  the  first  number  of 
which  appeared  in  1862.  The  name  was  changed  to  Pacific 
Tribune  in  1864  and  its  publication  continued  by  R.  H.  Hewitt, 
sKC(!edcd  ])y  Chas.  Prose-h.     The  Washington   Standard  com- 


PIONEER   REMINISCENCES  303 

iiienced  publication  November  17,  1860,  before  the  demise  of 
the  Pioneer  and  Democrat. 

The  newspaper  men  of  the  early  days  were  as  a  rule  iiicii 
of.  exceptional  ability,  some  of  them  practical  printers,  who 
saved  the  time  of  making  copy  by  standing  at  the  case,  stick 
in  hand,  and  composing  able  articles  on  state  affairs,  economics, 
and  devoting  much  space  to  current  politics. 

As  a  sample  of  scathing  denunciation  indulged  in  in  those 
days  we  cite  the  following: 

A  correspondent  signing  his  name  as  Scorpion  attacked 
Governor  Stevens,  and  the  Pioneer  and  Democrat  replies  as 
follows: 

"Scorpion — the  name  means  a  vile  snake — a  reptile — a 
venemous  serpent,  with  poison  on  its  tongue,  vengeance  in  its 
heart,  and  ready  to  deal  deatli  to  all  who  may  come  in  contact 
Avith  it.  It  moves  noiselessly  along  the  path  of  the  unsuspecting 
passerby  hissing,  bites  and  retreats,  leaving  a  loathsome,  slimy 
trail.  *  *  *  And  now  let  us  contrast  the  conduct  of  our 
valiant  citizen  soldiery  with  his  snakeship  Scorpion — heaping 
its  vile  abuse  upon  an  absent  soldier.  We  mean  Governor 
I.  I.  Stevens.  Can  the  white-livered,  cowardly,  crawling  reptile 
Scorpion  look  such  a  man  in  the  face  and  utter  one  word  of 
disparagement  against  him.  No!  No!!  He  would  rather 
seek  employment  at  one  cent  per  day  to  dig  for  himself  a 
coward's  grave,  beneath  the  bosom  of  the  earth!  And  such 
a  Scorpion's  grave  should  be  in  some  dark,  gloomy  and  se- 
cluded spot,  where  the  sun's  glorious  rays,  that  greens  the 
grass,  can  never  reach  his  resting  place.  Let  him  rest  in  igno- 
minious solitude,  and  depart 

''  'To  the  low,  vile  dust  from  which  he  sprung. 
Unwept,  unhonored  and  unsung.' 

"To  Scorpion  and  the  troop  of  assailants  of  the  Executive 
and  Territorial  Administration  we  would  say: 

"  'Avaunt  and  (piil   my  sight! 
Let  the  eartli  hide  thee!     Thy  bones  are  marrowless! 
Thy  blood  is  cold ! 
Hence  !     Horrible  shadow ! 
Let  justice  be  done  tliough  the  TL'avens  fall!'  " 


304  THURSTON   COUNTY 

The  same  paper  referring  ta  James  Buchanan,  Demo- 
cratic candidate  for  President,  says,  '"he  is  riding  on  the  top- 
most wave  of  Eternal  Democracy,  which  is  ever  rising  higher 
iind  higher  and  like  the  tide  of 

''  'The  Proi)ontic  Sea 
Knows  no  retiring  ebb."  ' 

J.  Newton  Gale,  a  pioneer  editor,  thus  described  his 
method  of  securing  inspiration  for  his  editorials  : 

"By  reflecting,  sitting  alone  in  our  room  with  our  eyes 
closed  and  our  mind's  eye  soaring  away  into  the  eternal  realms 
of  thought,  and  gathering  knowledge  from  the  falling  spray 
of  the  fountain  of  eternal  realities,  while  scintillations  from 
the  great  central  sun  of  intellectual  light  awaken  latent  powers 
of  the  mind  into  active  existencies." 

In  the  year  1867  Frank  Clark,  on  the  Democratic  ticket, 
ran  against  Alvin  Flanders,  on  the  Republican  ticket.  Flanders 
was  not  a  speaker,  while  Ciark  was  quite  a  fluent  talker.  To 
even  up  in  the  campaign  the  Republicans  put  Selucius  Gar- 
fielde,  a  brilliant  orator,  on  the  stump,  and  he  accompanied 
Flanders  throughout  a  hard  fought  campaign.  This  situation 
gave  rise  to  the  following  poem,  printed  in  the  Washington 
k^^tandard : 

Alvin  Flanders  rode  upon 

A  horse   that   wouldn't   mind   him. 

And  so  to  act  as  fugleman, 
Selucius  rode  behind  him. 

Selucius  was  a  proper  man 

And  had  so  good  a  straddle. 
That   he   could   ride   two   horses,   with 

One  office  for  a  saddle. 

His  classic  seat  was  full  of  grip. 

His  brain  was  scientific. 
And  large  enough  to  hold   a   train 

Of  cars  for  the  l*acific. 


PIONEER   REMINISCENCES  305 

His   mouth   o 'erf lowed   with   oily   words, 

In  fact,  'twas  even  hinted 
That   he   could  make   an  off  hand  speech 

Just  like  a  book  that's  printed. 

And  thus  they  rode  from  place  to  place. 

Wher'er  their  pony  bore  them; 
When  Flanders  had  to  speak  a  piece, 

Selucius  spoke  it  for  him. 

'Tis  mostly  thus  with  those  who  shriek 

Of  Congress  orthodoxy, 
When  called  upon  to  fight  or  speak, 

They  do  it  best  by  proxy. 

Some  of  the  early  editors  were  nothing  if  not  grandiloquent 
and  elaborate,  given  much  to  poetic  quotation.  The  simple 
announcement  of  a  dance  for  Fourth  of  July,  1854,  is  made 
in  the  following  language : 

"Active  preparations  are  on  foot  by  the  votaries  of  Terpsi- 
chore to  celebrate  the  evening  of  the  Fourth  at  the  new  and 
spacious  hall  in  process  of  erection  by  ]\Ir.  L.  Ensign,  which 
will  be  in  readiness  for  the  occasion.  Room  for  the  million 
can  be  obtained  at  the  low  price  of  $5  per  couple,  for  v\^hich 
more  than  value  received  cannot  fail  to  be  derived  by  an  in- 
dulgence in  the  nice  things  which  will  be  provided  for  the 
occasion. 

"  'On  with  the  dance,  let  joy  be  unconfined ; 
No  sleep  till  morn  when  youth  and  pleasure  meet, 
To  chase  the  glowing  hours  with  flying  feet.'  " 

But  the  above  excerpts  are  not  intended  to  lead  the  reader 
into  the  erroneous  idea  that  these  journalists  devoted  their 
talents  solely  to  fierce  denunciation  or  frivolous  generalities 
Frequently  when  occasion  demanded  these  men  wrote  editorials 
that  would  command  notice  in  any  publication,  ranging  from 
Ihe  ridiculous  to  the  pathetic,  running  the  gamut  from  bitter 
personal  aiul  political  attack  to  the  finer  expressions  of  brothel'- 


306  THURSTON  COUNTY 

ly  love  and  good  will,  always  uniting  in  eloquent  tribute  to 
the  fellow  pioneers,  as  they,  one  by  one,  quit  the  scene  of 
their  activities.  Then,  too,  they  were  a  unit  in  their  efforts 
for  the  upbuilding  of  the  Territory  and  developing  its  latent 
resources. 

These  early  editors,  of  whatever  party  or  creed,  were 
I)owerful  factors  in  the  advancement  of  this  then  unknown 
section  of  the  United  States,  and  were  poorly  rewarded  pecuni- 
arily for  their  efforts. 


THOMAS  MILBURNE  REED 


Thomas  M.  Reed,  who  at  the  time  of  his  death  in  1905. 
was  the  oldest  Grand  Secretary  of  ]Masons  in  length  of  ser- 
vice in  the  entire  world,  and  was  honored  by  that  noble  frater- 
nity as  no  other  man  in  Washington.  When  death  came  to 
Mr.  Eeed  in  the  80th  year  of  his  age  he  had  survived  all  but 
one  or  two  of  the  brethren  wdio  were  associated  with  him  when 
the  Washington  Grand  Lodge  of  Free  and  Accepted  Masons 
was  organized  in  1859,  and  his  funeral  was  attended  by  per- 
haps the  most  notable  assemblage  of  Freemasons  ever  gathered 
together  in  Washington.  The  Masonic  funeral  ceremony  was 
conducted  by  the  Honorable  Louis  Ziegler,  of  Spokane.  Some 
fifteen  or  twenty  years  before  Mr.  Eeed's  death  a  fraternal 
compact  was  made  between  three  Past  Grand  Masters  of 
Washington:  Colonel  Granvile  0.  Haller,  U.  S.  A.,  of  Seattle; 
Hon.  Louis  Ziegler,  of  Spokane,  and  Hon.  Thomas  Milburne 


l^IONEER  REMINISCENCES  307 

Reed,  of  Olympia,  to  the  effect  that  one  or  other  of  the  sur- 
vivors should  conduct  the  Masonic  ceremony  at  the  burial  of 
the  departed.  With  the  death  of  T.  M.  Reed,  Louis  Ziegler 
was  the  last  remaining  one  of  the  three  friends  and  the  Ma- 
sons who  were  gathered  from  all  corners  of  Washington  to  at- 
tend the  funeral  will  not  soon  forget  the  words  of  philosophy, 
love  and  eulogy  so  touchingly  pronounced  by  the  last  sur- 
vivor of  the  compact. 

Thomas  M.  Reed  was  born  at  Sharpsburg,  Bath  County, 
Kentucky,  on  December  8,  1852.  He  was  of  sturdy  North  Ire- 
land Presbyterian  stock  and  until  the  day  of  his  death  pre- 
served unshaken  the  faith  of  his  ancestors  and  never  ceased 
to  take  an  active  part  in  the  management  of  the  Presbyterian 
congregation  to  which  he  belonged,  although  singularly  free 
from  trace  of  prejudice  or  bigotry. 

Thomas  M.  Reed's  mother  died  when  the  lad  w^as  but 
twelve  years  of  age  and  he  went  to  live  for  a  while  with  a 
brother  of  his  deceased  mother.  At  the  age  of  fourteen  we 
find  him  laboring  on  his  uncle's  farm  for  eight  dollars  a 
month  and  his  board  for  nine  months  of  the  year.  The  winter 
months  were  devoted  to  school.  Out  of  the  $72  earned  during 
the  working  months  the  young  man  clothed  himself  and  paid 
for  his  winter's  schooling. 

When  Mr.  Reed  was  about  18  years  of  age  he  was  em- 
ployed to  teach  a  country  school,  and  after  a  summer's  ex- 
perience at  this  work  he  secured  a  position  in  a  country  store, 
earning  several  promotions  in  the  course  of  the  five  years 
following. 

The  most  important  step  the  young  man  took  upon  reach- 
ing his  majority  was  to  join  IloUoway  Lodge  No.  153,  F.  & 
A.  M.,  in  his  native  Bath  County.  He  received  on  July  7, 
1847,  the  Sublime  Degree  and  became  Secretary  in  his  Lodge. 

When  the  news  of  the  great  gold  strikes  of  1848  in  Cali- 
fornia found  its  way  into  the  Blue  Grass  state.  Reed  decided  to 
cut  loose  and  strike  for  the  Eldorado  of  the  Pacific.  He  ar- 
rived in  California  on  July  26,  1849,  and  engaged  at  once  in 
the  pursuit  of  the  Golden  Fleece  and  alternately  filled  posi- 
tions of  Postmaster,  County  Treasurer,  County  Superviser  and 
Justice  of  the  Peace,  which  latter  occupation  was  the  incentive 
to  his  study  of  the  profession  of  law. 


308  THURSTON  COUNTY 

Resolving-  to  shift  the  scene  of  his  activities  to  Puget 
Sound,  Mr.  Reed  came  to  Olympia  in  1857,  and  became  the 
agent  of  the  "Wells,  Fargo  &  Co.'s  Express.  Later  he  kept  a 
store  in  the  Capitol  City.  F'rom  1872  to  1880  he  devoted  most 
of  his  time  to  the  survey  of  public  lands  in  Western  Wash- 
ington. In  the  year  of  1877,  the  counties  of  Thurston  and 
Lewis  elected  him  to  the  Territorial  Council,  which  elected 
him  their  President.  At  the  close  of  the  session  Mr.  Reed 
was  elected  Territorial  Auditor,  w^iich  position  he  held  until 
1888. 

In  1889  he  was  elected  a  member  of  the  Convention  to 
frame  a  Constitution  for  the  new  State  of  Washington  and 
was  then  elected  State  Auditor,  where  he  remained  until  1893. 
this  term  closing  his  career  as  a  public  servant. 

From  December  8,  1858,  Mr.  Reed's  thirty-third  birthday, 
when  he  was  installed  as  its  first  Grand  Secretary,  to  the  day 
of  his  death,  nearly  forty-seven  years  later,  he  loved  and  cher- 
ished the  Grand  Lodge  of  Washington  with  marvelous  devo- 
tion and  in  all  those  years  never  missed  a  State  Communica- 
tion except  once  when  he  was  unavoidably  detained  in  Idaho 
and  the  one  which  occurred  in  June,  1905,  a  few  weeks  prior 
to  his  death.  His  inability  to  attend  the  latter  Communica- 
tion was  the  source  of  intense  and  pathetic  disappointment 
to  him. 

On  the  occasion  of  a  visit  to  his  old  home  in  Kentucky, 
Mr.  Reed  was  married  to  Elizabeth  Hannah  Finley  and  two 
sons  were  the  result  of  this  union — Thomas  Milburne  Reed, 
jr.,  now  of  Nome,  Alaska,  and  Senior  Warden  of  Anvil  Lodge, 
of  that  place,  and  Marcus  Edward  Reed,  manager  of  the  Simp- 
son Logging  Company  and  a  Past  Master  of  Olympia  Lodge 
No.  1.  After  the  death  of  his  first  wife,  Mr.  Reed  married 
Miss  Eliza  Carter  Giddings,  who  became  the  mother  of  Emma 
Reed  Ingham.  By  a  third  marriage  to  Hattie  A.  Fox,  he  had 
a  son,  Garnett  Avery  Reed.  All  of  Mr.  Reed's  children  are 
married,  respected  and  jjrosperous. 

Thomas  Milburne  Reed  died  at  his  handsome  home  in 
Olympia  on  the  8th  day  of  October,  1905,  thus  fulfilling  a  wish 
he  had  often  expressed  in  life  that  his  life  might  go  out  in  glor- 
iously fine  weather.  The  day  of  his  death  and  the  day  on 
which  his  funeral  was  held  were  heavenly  bright  and  peace- 


PIONEER   REMINISCENCES  309 

fill.  In  the  words  of  his  friend  of  many  j^ears,  Hon.  John 
Arthur,  in  a  memorial  service  in  memory  of  Thomas  ]\Iil 
l)urne  Reed,  voices  the  question  of  King  David  mourning  over 
the  death  of  Abner,  "Know  ye  not  that  there  is  a  prince  and 
great  man  fallen  this  day  in  Israel?"  in  giving  expression  to 
his  grief  over  the  passing  of  Thomas  IMilburne  Reed  into  his 
rcAvard. 


SOME  TUMWATER  REMINISCENCES 


Contributed  by  Ada  Sprague  Mowell. 

In  1869  ]\Ir.  and  ]\Irs.  Alfred  D.  Sprague  with  their 
seven  children  arrived  in  Olympia  after  a  trip  full  of  hard- 
ships— coming  by  wagon,  ])y  foot  and  again  by  wagon  from 
Boise   Cit}',    Idaho. 

Mr.  Sprague  was  the  type  of  man  that  is  always  a  pioneer, 
a  descendant  of  those  English  pioneers  to  New  England  and 
who  later  joined  what  was  called  the  great  Ohio  Exodus. 

After  the  marriage  of  Alfred  Sprague  to  Whilmina  Sager 
the  young  couple  took  up  a  constant  quest  for  new  places. 
They  lived  in  five  different  states,  each  one  a  little  farther 
west. 

Three  children  were  born  to  them  in  Arkansas,  two  in 
Kansas,  two  in  Colorado,  one  in  Idaho  and  two  in  Washing- 
ton. Of  these  ten  children  three  girls  and  three  boys  are 
now  living.  The  oldest  daughter.  Belle  (]\Irs.  David  Dodd), 
was  married  and  living  in  Idaho,  and  Avas  never  in  Washington. 
She  had  five  children.  She  died  in  1888.  Olive  lives  at  Friday 
Harbor.  Etta,  now  ]\Irs.  Gelbach,  lives  at  Spokane.  Hattie, 
^Irs.  Underwood,  lives  in  ]\Iexico  and  California.  Fred  lives 
in  Alaska.  Roderick  lives  at  White  Bluffs,  Wash.  The  latter 
is  well  known  in  Olympia  on  account  of  his  editorial  worlc 
on  the  morning  Olympian. 

Two  girls,  Kate  and  I\Ieda,  d'wd  in  theii-  early  'teens,  and 


310  THURSTON    COUNT"Y 

Alice,  jMrs.  E.  R.  Rabbeson,  a  universal  favorite,  died  in  her 
young  wifehood  leaving"  two  children.  Winfield  and  Randolph. 
The  latter  died  in  childhood  and  Winfield  lives  in  Olympia. 

Ada,  the  seventh  child  and  the  youngest  daughter,  is  the 
only  one  of  the  children  living  in  Olympia.  She  is  the  wife 
of  Dr.  J.  W.  Mowell,  a  Pennsylvanian  who  came  to  Washington 
in  the  '90 's.  Mrs.  Mowell  lives  within  a  block  of  the  first 
house  in  which  the  Spragues  lived  in  the  state  of  Washington. 
The  original  house  was  much  smaller,  of  course.  It  was  known 
as  the  Hayden  place  to  old  timers.  It  is  on  Main  Street  be- 
tween Tenth  and  Union.  Though  not  among  the  early  pioneers, 
coming  as  they  did  in  1869,  the  Spragues  knew  all  the  pioneers 
and  in  complying  with  a  request  for  her  to  contribute  some 
of  her  reminiscences  of  early  days  in  Tumwater,  ]\Irs.  Mowell 
relates  the  following : 

"As  most  of  my  journey  to  Washington  was  made  in 
my  mother's  arms,  it  is  not  strange  that  I  do  not  remember 
the  exciting  incidents  of  the  trip,  though  I  listened  with  bated 
breath  in  later  years  to  the  hair-breadth  escapes  and  thrilling 
adventures. 

"We  did  not  stay  long  in  Olympia,  as  Tumwater  was  the 
first  settlement  and  was  much  the  most  promising  place  then. 

"We  lived  for  a  time  in  the  old  Barnes  place,  and  later 
moved  to  Bush  Prairie,  as  being  the  only  house  obtainable 
nearer  the  homestead  my  father  wished  to  take  up.  There 
at  the  Kuhn  place,  my  brother,  Frederick,  was  born,  and  here 
we  lived  until  a  small  clearing  Avas  made  on  the  homestead 
and  a  substantial  log  house  was  built. 

"Roderick  was  born  on  the  old  homestead. 

"While  pioneer  life  was  full  of  hardships  for  the  elders 
it  was  full  of  joy  for  the  youngsters.  Looking  back  over  our 
childhood,  it  seems  like  a  long  day  of  playtime.  We  had 
wonderful  adventures  in  the  woods  about  the  place.  We  built 
houses  of  round  sticks  of  several  stories  for  our  dolls,  which 
often  were  sticks  themselves,  or  at  best  'rag  dolls'.  My  first 
china  doll  was  given  me  by  a  neighbor,  Mrs.  Harn,  whose 
little  girl  had  died.  It  was  a  precious  possession,  but  never 
so  dearly  loved  as  my  rag  babies. 

"The  first  definite  childhood  remembrance  I  have  is  the 
ileath   of   my   sister,   Kate,   in    1871.      I   remembered   someone 


PIONEER   REMINISCENCES  311 

carrying  me  through  the  room,  and  a  few  years  ago  ]Mrs. 
Mills  told  me  that  it  was  she  who  lifted  me  up  for  a  last 
look  at  my  sister's  face. 

"Though  the  real  pioneer  days  were  past  when  we  came 
to  Thurston  County,  the  pioneer  spirit  still  throve,  and  a 
family  in  trouble  as  we  were  with  sickness  and  other  hardships 
incident  to  making  a  living  in  a  new  place,  found  sympathizing 
neighbors  as  far  away  as  South  Union. 

"My  sisters,  Kate  and  Meda,  are  remembered  by  many 
pioneers.  Meda,  who  died  four  years  later,  had  gone  back 
to  the  home  of  our  oldest  sister,  Belle,  hoping  the  change  might 
benefit  her  health.  She  failed  to  regain  her  health,  however, 
by  this  change  and  we  never  saw  her  again. 

"Adjoining  our  farm  was  that  of  the  Dittman's.  ]\Irs. 
Dittman  spoke  nothing  but  German  and  my  mother  and  she 
found  much  comfort  in  being  able  to  talk  in  their  mother 
tongue.  Our  next  nearest  neighbors  were  the  Helsers,  and 
all  old  settlers  remember  the  time-honored  joke  on  the  man  in 
search  of  an  introduction  at  a  dance  in  Olympia  when  I\Ir. 
Helser  was  one  of  the  floor  committee.  The  gentleman  asked 
for  an  introduction  to  a  certain  lady  and  was  hurriedly  told 
to  'Go  to  Helser'.    A  fight  was  only  averted  by  an  explanation. 

"Mr.  Benj.  Gordon's  place  on  Bush  Prairie  was  always 
a  joy  to  me.  I  know  every  nick  of  the  orchard,  and  Mr. 
Gordon  alway  treated  me  to  big  sticks  of  cinnamon  bark. 

"Jesse  Ferguson's  farm  was  another  place  I  loved  to  go. 
At  threshing  time  my  mother  always  helped  the  Ferguson 
girls  cook  for  the  threshers.  Work  was  traded  in  these  days 
and  at  log  rolling  time  on  our  place  the  neighbors  helped  my 
mother.  One  of  the  sorrows  of  youth,  that  is  still  a  regret, 
was  a  wonderful  dinner  I  could  not  eat  because  of  sickness, 
when  there  was  a  log  rolling  bee  at  our  place. 

"My  father's  death  in  1875  was  a  cruel  blow  to  my  mother 
and  to  us  all.  He  was  such  a  buoyant,  hopeful  disposition, 
that  hardships  and  discouragement  that  would  have  crushed 
many  men,  only  stimulated  him  to  greater  effort.  But  his 
l^hysique  was  never  strong,  and  the  extremely  hard  work 
clearing  a  place  and  logging  it,  too,  broke  him  down  and  he 
died  in  the  prime   of  life. 

"On  the   shoulders   of   tlie   older   children   descended   the 


312  THURSTON  COUNTY 

burden  of  the  support  of  the  family.  JMy  brother,  Oliver, 
left  school  and  went  to  work,  and  to  him  we  owe  more  than 
we  can  ever  repay.  He  was  my  mother's  stay  and  comfort 
till  her  death  in  1881  at  the  early  age  of  48. 

"With  mj^  mother's  German  and  my  father's  New  England 
ancestry,  it  is  small  wonder  that  the  every  nerve  was  strained 
that  the  children  should  have  as  good  an  education  as  the 
times  permitted.  Consequently  during  all  these  years,  with 
few  exceptions,  we  moved  into  Tumwater  every  winter  for 
the  term  of  school,  usually  six  months,  and  out  to  'the  place' 
as  we  always  called  it,  in  the  spring  in  time  for  the  usual 
spring  work  on  the  farm.  I  think  my  father  went  back  and 
forth  during  the  day  to  go  on  with  the  dairy. 

"During  these  winter  sojourns  much  Tumwater  history 
vras  fixed  in  my  mind  and  the  names  of  many  old  families 
were   household   words. 

.  "When  we  first  came  to  Tumwater  the  Crosby,  Biles, 
Ostranderand  many  others  families  were  there.  We  lived  one 
winter  in  the  Brewer  place,  upstairs.  This  was  later  known 
as  the  Cameron  place  and  was  a  familiar  landmark  for  many 
years.  Later  we  lived  in  a  part  of  the  down-stairs,  and  it 
was  here  my  father  died.  Directly  opposite  the  place  lived 
the  Dudley  Barnes'.  Linre  Barnes,  now  of  Seattle,  and  I. 
being  near  the  same  age  became  great  friends.  The  Shattucks 
lived  next  door  and  beyond  them  the  Scotts,  across  the  street 
I  think  the  Bakers  lived,  and  also  I  think  the  Lees.  Mrs. 
Lee  taught  in  Tumwater.  The  S.  K.  Taylors  also  lived  here — 
the  Coopers  further  down,  near  the  bay;  the  Cornels,  Hugh, 
Joe  and  John ;  the  Cambys ;  the  Ira  and  Sam  Wards. 

"The  Crosbys  had  the  historical  mill  and  a  large  store. 
George  Biles  also  had  a  large  store  and  Mrs.  Biles  tells  me 
Olympia  people  traded  in  Tumwater  to  a  great  extent. 

"Dr.  Ostrander  lived  in  Tumwater  then,  as  did  also  the 
Eastman  family.  Mr.  Rice,  whose  son,  Elmore,  afterwards 
achieved  distinction  as  a  violinist,  was  living  there  then.  On 
the  hill  was  the  Barnes  place — quite  a  pretentious  place  at 
that  time. 

"The  school  house  on  the  hill,  near  the  site  of  the  present 
building,  was  a  small  one-room  affair  and  to  this  day  I  re- 
member my  first  appearance  there.  I  was  in  deadly  fear 
of   the  teacher,   who   taught   with   the   rod   ever   in   his   hand. 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  313 

Later  school  was  held  in  the  T.  L.  A.  Hall,  which  is  still  stand- 
ing, a  monument  to  the  energy  of  the  residents  who  organized 
the  society  and  built  the  hall.  This  Tumwater  Literary 
Association  Avas  a  flourishing  society  for  many  years.  They 
gathered  together  quite  a  library,  and  had  very  interesting 
sessions.     In  this  hall  dances  were  held  for  many  years. 

"School  was  held  in  the  lower  floor  and  once  when  some 
of  the  older  boys  had  planned  to  eject  the  teacher,  during 
the  scuffle  which  followed  my  sister,  Etta,  now  Mrs.  Gelbach 
of  Spokane,  put  all  we  children  out  of  the  window  and  then 
clambered  after  us,  whither  most  of  the  school  followed. 
School  in  those  days  never  lacked  for  excitement.  Kate  Ward 
(Mrs.  Knapp),  Fannie  and  Florence  Ostrander  (Mrs.  IMoore 
and  Mrs.  Crosby),  Fannie  Crosby  (Mrs.  Ostrander),  and  many 
others  probably  remember  that  day  as  vividly  as  I  do. 

''Across  the  bay  was  an  Indian  village  and  whenever  there 
were  rumors  of  war  we  children  used  to  terrify  ourselves 
with  imagining  that  these  Indians  would  capture  us.  The 
old  squaws  with  their  baskets  of  olalies,  or  of  oysters,  clams 
or  fish  hanging  over  their  backs  suspended  from  a  broad  band 
across  the  forehead,  were  familiar  sights  to  our  youthful  eyes. 
The  site  of  this  village  has  long  been  overgrown  with  small 
trees  and  underbrush. 

"]\Iany  names  throng  my  memory  as  I  think  over  those 
days  which  were  spent  in  Tumwater,  but  as  they  are  probably 
all  mentioned  in  other  reminiscences  I  will  omit  them,  but  if 
a  complete  list  could  be  compiled  of  all  who  have  lived  in 
Tumwater,  many  well  known  names  would  be  there. 

"One  beautiful,  solemn  custom  was  followed  in  Tumwater 
until  the  early  '80's.  This  was  the  tolling  the  age  of  one 
who  had  just  taken  leave  of  this  life.  The  first  stroke  of 
the  bell  sent  a  hush  of  sympathy  over  the  town,  and  the 
close,  friendly  life  then  made  all  well  acquainted  with  all  that 
was  happening  so  the  people  knew  who  had  gone  to  rest. 
Almost  the  last  for  Avhom  the  bell  tolled  was  our  mother.  This 
custom  in  a  small  community  seemed  a  beautiful  one  to  me 
and  as  long  as  Grandfather  Biles,  as  he  was  universally  called, 
lived  and  was  well  enough  to  attend  to  outside  matters,  this 
custom  and  another  was  kept  up.  The  other  custom  was  the 
community  Christmas  tree  held  every  Christmas  Eve  at  the 
little  church  on  the  hill.     This  church,  built  first  as  a  union 


314  THURSTON  COUNTY 

church,  was  afterwards  absorbed  by  the  IMethodist  Church  and 
as  I  think  still  of  that  denomination.  Mr.  Biles  was  for  many 
years  Superintendent  of  the  Sunday  School  and  the  mainstay 
of  the  church. 

"With  but  two  or  three  exceptions  not  even  a  descendant 
of  any  of  those  pioneers  live  now  at  Tumwater. 

"The  old  place,  on  which  we  lived  only  long  enough  for 
my  mother  to  prove  up  after  my  father's  death,  has  remained 
intact  for  thirty  years,  but  not  occupied. 

"]\rr.  Gelbach,  while  in  a  reminiscent  mood  during  his 
long  illness  in  1914,  told  many  interesting  things  of  early 
days  and  Mrs.  Gelbach  has  transcribed  the  following,  which 
vrill  interest  many  pioneers : 

"In  April  1870  there  embarked  on  the  Steamer  Ajax. 
clearing  from  San  Francisco  for  Portland,  Oregon,  a  group 
of  men  who  became  for  manj-  years  identified  with  the  for- 
tunes of  Thurston  County. 

"The  first  in  importance  was  Mr.  Saloman,  who  bore  an 
appointment  from  President  U.  S.  Grant  as  Governor  of  the 
Territory  of  Washington ;  second  IMajor  Hayden,  who  came 
as  Internal  Revenue  Collector.;  Mr.  B.  B.  Tuttle,  a  deputy 
Revenue  Collector,  and  Mr.  R.  G.  O'Brien,  who  served  as 
Secretary  to  Major  Hayden. 

"Among  the  non-officials  were  Mr.  Phillip  Hiltz,  Mr. 
Stuth,  bringing  his  bride  from  Germany,  and  Mr.  George  Gel- 
bach. ]Mr.  Gelbach  started  West  with  the  intention  of  settling 
in  Portland,  Oregon,  but  was  persuaded  by  the  Olympia  party 
to  continue  his  journey  to  Puget  Sound. 

"Major  Hayden,  Mr.  Tuttle  and  ]Mr.  O'Brien  were  gifted 
with  fine  voices  and  formed  a  trio  whose  singing  gave  great 
pleasure  to  the  passengers. 

"On  arriving  at  Portland  many  honors  were  paid  to  the 
new  Washington  Governor,  in  which  the  whole  Olympia  party 
shared.  Carriages  drawn  by  four  horses  were  provided  for 
a  trip  to  Hillsborough  where  Mr.  Scott,  father  of  the  famous 
Oregonian  editor,  and  no  less  famous  suffragist,  Abigail  Scott 
Duniway,  kept  an  inn.  A  boutiful  old-time  feast  was  spread 
for  the  guests.  Several  days  were  spent  in  Portland  waiting 
for  the  arrival  of  the  Steamer  California  to  take  the  passengers 
over  the  bar  and  through  the  Straits  to  Puget  Sound. 


PIONEER   REMINISCENCES  315 

"Amongst  the  freight  loaded  in  Portland  was  1,000  bushels 
of  wheat  billed  to  Mr.  Nelson  Barnes  for  his  mill  at  Turawater. 
When  approaching  the  bar  on  the  outward  voyage  a  siorni 
threatened  and  the  Captain  ordered  all  passengers  inside  the 
cabins  and  everything  was  made  fast  for  heavy  seas.  The 
order  was  obeyed  by  all  except  Mr.  Gelbach,  who  preferred 
to  take  his  chances  outside.  The  decks  were  twice  washed 
by  huge  waves,  but  he  clung  to  ropes  for  dear  life  and  escaped 
being  washed  overboard.  When  quiet  waters  were  reached 
the  Captain  was  surprised  to  find  him  still  aboard,  a  wetter 
and  a  wiser  man. 

"When  the  little  hamlet  of  Seattle  was  reached  the  steamer 
lay  by  to  enable  the  inhabitants  to  entertain  their  Governor. 
Chief  on  the  program  was  a  dance,  which  was  greatly  enjoyed 
by  the  steamer's  passengers. 

"On  the  sixth  day  of  May,  1870,  when  the  California 
neared  the  head  of  Puget  Sound,  the  little  group  of  men  stood 
on  her  deck  eagerly  gazing  for  a  glimpse  of  their  new  home 
G-overnor  Saloman,  Major  Hayden  and  ]\Ir.  Ililtz  had  served 
in  the  Civil  War,  but  as  the  close  of  that  event  was  but  five 
years  in  the  past  they  were  still  young  men.  The  remainder 
of  the  party  were  in  their  early  twenties.  When  the  steamer 
rounded  Doffelmeyers  Point,  Olympia  lay  revealed  under  the 
morning  sun,  in  all  the  greenery  and  bloom  of  IMay,  a  beau- 
tiful and  welcome  sight,  and  it  was  well  that  the  young  and 
hopeful  company  could  not  read  beneath  this  smiling  welcome 
that  Thurston  County  held  no  great  fortune  nor  signal  honor 
for  any  of  its  members..  As  they  drew  nearer  ]Mr.  Hiltz  ex- 
claimed enthusiastically,  'That  is  the  place,'  and  he  remained 
true  to  the  opinion,  living  in  Olympia  for  the  remainder  ot 
his  life;  as  did  IMr.  Stuth  also,  who  probably  of  all  the  partv 
came  best  equipped  fiiiancially.  lie  met  business  misfortune 
early  in  his  Olympia  career  from  which  he  never  recovered. 
Governor  Saloman  made  his  home  in  Olympia  till  his  successoi 
was  appointed  and  later  died  in  San  Francisco.  IMr.  Tuttlt 
went  to  Portland,  Oregon,  where  he  died  a  few  years  ago. 
Major  Hayden,  who  was  joined  by  his  family,  lived  in  Olympia 
for  many  years,  removing  later  to  Seattle  where  his  death 
occurred.  Mr.  O'Brien  occupied  the  office  of  Clerk  of  tht 
Supreme  Court  for  a  number  of  years,  later  organizing  the 
State   National   Guards,   in   which    he   was   deeply   interested. 


316  THURSTON  COUNTY 

After  losing  the  command  of  the  State  Militia  he  went  to 
California,  where  he  lived  nntil  his  death,  which  occnrrea 
recently.    He  is  remembered  as  the  father  of  the  IMilitia. 

"Mr.  Gelbach  cast  his  lot  with  the  little  village  of  Tum- 
water,  where  he  maintained  a  continuous  residence  for  27 
years.  He  built  a  flouring  mill  there,  and  conducted  a  success- 
ful business  until  the  panic  of  1893  relieved  him  with  many 
others,  of  future  business  cares.  He  then  served  four  years 
as  County  Treasurer.  Mr.  Gelbach  now  resides  in  Spokane, 
the  only  living  member  of  the  little  party  that  so  gaily  steamed 
into  Olympia  Harbor  44  years  ago. 

"In  connection  with  the  present  high  cost  of  maintenance 
of  the  state,  ]Mr.  Gelbach  recalls  an  incident  of  Territorial  days 
which  makes  interesting  reading  now  that  the  taxpayers  are 
called  upon  to  foot  the  enormous  bills  for  the  state's  expenses. 

"Governor  Saloman  oecMpied  an  office  over  George 
Barnes'  bank,  an  adjoining  room  being  used  by  the  Secretary 
of  State.  One  day  when  ]\Ir.  Gelbach  was  in  the  office 
the  executive,  Secretary  Nick  Owings  and  Auditor  T.  M.  Reed 
entered  into  a  discussion  concerning  the  cost  of  maintaining 
the  Territory  for  the  ensuing  year.  It  was  the  general  con- 
census of  opinion  that  $35,000  would  be  amply  sufficient." 


DAVID  T.  DREWRY 


Living  in  peace,  contentment  and  plenty  on  the  magnifi- 
cent farm  where  they  have  made  their  home  for  the  past  fifty 
odd  years,  was  found  Mr.  and  Mrs.  David  T.  Drewry  when 
the  compiler  was  on  the  quest  of  genuine  pioneers,  as  surely 
this  venerable  couple  could  be  so  designated  as  IMr.  Drewry 
arrived  in  the  year  1853  and  his  wife  probably  a  couple  of 
years  later,  the  memories  of  the  two  were  a  little  vague  and 
indistinct  in  regard  to  exact  dates,  but  they  both  knew  they 
came  here  while  the  entire  country  was  all  but  an  unbroken 


PIONEER   REMINISCENCES  317 

wilderness  and  through  their  yonthful  pluck  and  energy  they 
certainly  performed  well  their  share  in  making  at  least  their 
own  holdings  bloom  and  flourish. 

Well  kept  fields  reaching  for  long  stretches  along  the 
county  road,  a  fine  garden  spot,  flowers,  and  thoroughly 
modern  farm  house  are  there  today  as  witnesses  of  the  thrift 
and  industry  of  the  couple^ — young  and  in  the  freshness  of 
youth  when  their  life  was  started  on  the  farm  a  half  century 
ago,  and  now  as  the  shadows  of  life's  evening  approach,  wait- 
ing with  cheerfulness  and  serenity  for  the  night  to  fall ;  happy 
in  their  children,  grandchildren,  and  with  a  mutual  love  and 
dependence  upon  each  other  that  was  very  touching  to  witness. 

D.  T.  Drewry  came  to  this  country  as  the  driver  of  one 
of  Col.  Wm.  Cock's  ox  teams  from  their  old  home  in  Missouri, 
where  his  bo^^hood  had  been  spent,  although  the  young  man 
was  a  native  of  Kentucky  but  having  been  left  an  orphan  at 
a  very  earl.y  age,  had  been  adopted  by  an  uncle  living  in  Mis- 
souri. The  lad  w^as  but  seventeen  years  of  age  when  the  trip 
was  started  and  although  the  journey  was  made  in  the  regula- 
tion way  of  travl  in  those  days — over  the  old  Oregon  trail  with 
ox  teams.  Col.  Cock  with  his  family  was  so  well  equipped  for 
the  trip,  his  oxen  were  so  w^ell  fed  and  cared  for  that  only 
ninety  traveling  days  were  consumed  from  the  time  the  start 
was  made  from  ]\Iissouri  till  the  Willamette  valley  was  reached 
— an  unusually  short  time  in  those  days.  They  had  no  sick- 
ness, no  trouble  with  the  Indians  and  no  particular  disasters 
to  delay  them  from  reaching  their  destination. 

After  spending  the  winter  in  the  Willamette  valley,  Col. 
Cock  decided  to  come  on  to  Puget  Sound,  and  indeed,  this 
point  had  been  where  he  had  originally  intended  reaching 
when  he  made  up  his  mind  to  emigrate.  All  places  in  the 
West  looked  alike  to  the  young  David  so  he  came  along  with 
his  friends.  Col.  Cock  opened  and,  for  several  years,  was 
proprietor  of  the  historic  hotel  knoAvn  as  the  Pacific  House  and 
Drewry  assisted  him  in  the  work  about  the  place  for  several 
years. 

When  the  Indian  war  of  1855-56  broke  out  Drewry  was 
made  wagon  master  of  a  train  of  thirty  wagons  chartered  by 
the  government  to  haul  supplies  from  the  Cowlitz  landing  to 
the  Puyallup  valley,  where  the  troops    were    encamped.     Al- 


318  THURSTON  COUNTY 

though  the  young  man  was  never  in  an  actual  engagement 
Avith  the  enemy  his  train  was  at  one  time  so  close  to  the  White 
River  battle  that  the  men  could  distinctly  hear  the  reports  of 
the  guns  and  shouts  of  the  men.  The  teamsters  corralled  their 
Avagons  and  waited  for  some  time,  expecting  an  attack,  but 
they  were  not  molested. 

Mr.  Drewry  recalls  being  at  one  time  a  schoolmate  of 
John  IMiller  Murphy,  with  a  Mr.  Cornelius  as  their  teacher. 

"They  don't  have  such  teachers  now,"  said  the  old  man 
as  he  began  musing  over  those  vanished  days,  "and  they  don't 
have  as  good  times  as  they  used  to  either.  In  those  days  we 
vrere  all  like  one  big  family,  dancing  on  the  slightest  provo- 
cation, and  how  we  did  use  to  dance — none  of  your  silly  jigs 
and  whirlings  that  the  young  folks  seem  to  think  is  the  thing 
now.  We  boys  were  glad  to  pay  $5  a  ticket  to  a  dance.  We 
took  our  best  girls  and  danced  quadrilles,  polkas  and  waltzes 
all  the  afternoon  and  all  night.  Dances  were  dances  in  those, 
days,  too,  with  a  big  supper  of  ham  sandwiches,  home-made 
cakes  and  pies  and  gallons  of  coffee  thrown  in  at  midnight. 

"When  I  first  came  to  Olympia  the  white  women  I  can 
remember  were  Sarah  Yantis,  Jerusha  Hays,  Mrs.  Scott,  Char- 
h)tte  and  L-ucy  Barnes,  Mrs.  Cock  and  her  three  daughters, 
Carrie,  Annie  and  Roxie,  and  ]\Irs.  George  Barnes.  There  may 
have  been  a  fcAv  others  but  my  memory  fails  me." 

IMrs.  Drewry,  when  but  a  young  girl  of  fourteen  years 
of  age,  arrived  in  Olympia  with  her  parents  from  her  home 
in  New  York  City.  Their  trip  was  by  way  of  the  Isthmus  and 
they  were  among  the  passengers  on  the  first  train  connecting 
the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  over  the  route  of  the  now  Panama 
Canal.  They  had  the  hardship  of  having  to  take  their  choice 
of  walking  or  riding  a  mule  over  a  considerable  gap  in  the 
road  which  was  considered  unsafe  for  the  little  cars  to  cross 
«!wing  to  the  settling  of  the  earth  under  the  ties. 

A .  brother  of  Emaline  Weed,  as  ]\Irs.  Drewry  was  then 
known,  Charles  Weed,  had  preceded  his  family  to  Puget  Sound 
and  wrote  back  to  his  mother,  urging  her  to  join  him  in  this 
land  of  golden  opportunities.  His  advise  to  his  mother,  while 
good  in  the  main,  v\'as  faulty  in  the  respect  that  he  told  her 
not  to  bother  to  bring  any  furniture  or  supplies  with  her  on 
the  long  trip   as   everything   could   be    procured    here.     Mrs. 


PIONEER   REMINISCENCES  319 

Weed  followed  her  son's  advise,  but  upon  her  arrival  in 
Olymjiia  discovered  that  what  women  and  girls  considered  ab- 
solute necessaries  a  young  man  accustomed  to  a  frontier  life 
had  grown  to  regard  as  perfectly  dispensible  luxuries.  Bed- 
ding, pillows,  cooking  utensils  and  every  kind  of  conveniences 
were  impossible  to  buy.  Mrs.  Weed  was  delighted  to  procure 
a  few^  bird's  feathers  from  an  Indian  squaw  w^iich  she  enclosed 
in  some  articles  of  white  clothing  to  make  their  first  pillows. 
The  first  apples  the  family  could  obtain  were  given  them  by 
I\Ir.  George  Bush,  who  by  that  time  had  a  fine  orchard  in 
bearing.  The  Bush  and  Drewr.y  families  in  latter  years  be- 
came neighbors  and  firm  friends,  as  the  Weed  family  bought 
a  piece  of  land  on  the  Des  Chutes  river  near  the  Bush  place 
and  lived  there  till  the  marriage  of  Emaline  to  young  Drewer\ 
in  1858. 

Soon  after  their  marriage,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Drew^ry  bought 
the  place  on  which  they  still  live,  but  which  v\^as  originalbv 
the  Jones  homestead.  Here  their  children  were  born  and  from 
there  Avere  carried  forth  three  of  their  children,  never  to  re- 
turn, Harvey,  Carrie  and  Frederick,  their  baby. 

Although  Carrie  and  Frederick  w^ere  taken  while  still  of 
a  tender  age,  the  death  of  their  son,  Harvey,  in  1911,  was  a 
crushing  blow  to  the  parents,  now  growing  old  and  dependent 
upon  their  children  for  love  and  care.  He  was  a  young  man. 
full  of  life  and  vigor,  with  a  wife  and  children  to  cherish  and 
protect,  when  he  met  with  an  instantaneous  death  while  v/ork- 
ing  in  the  field. 

Of  the  remaining  sons,  the  eldest.  Almond,  has  a  hand- 
some country  home  within  a  few  rods  from  the  old  home  and 
the  youngest  son,  Edward  V.,  with  his  family,  lives  with  his 
parents  in  order  to  give  the  old  couple  the  care  and  atten- 
tion they  need  and  which  only  loving  hands  can  give  them 
as  the  wife  and  mother  has  lost  the  sight  of  her  eyes  and  is 
entirely  blind.  Her  husband  and  children  have  surrounded  her 
with  every  comfort  and  convenience  and  take  delight  in  fill- 
ing the  remaining  days  with  all  the  pleasure  and  happiness 
within  their  power  to  bestow. 


32C  THURSTON  COUNTY 


THE  BUSH  FAMILY 


Clinging  like  the  last  withered  leaf  on  the  tree,  only  wait- 
ing for  the  passing  breeze  to  waft  him  to  join  his  parents  and 
five  brothers  lives  Lewis  N.  Bush,  the  youngest  son  of  that 
liardiest  argonaut  of  them  all,  George  Bush  and  his  faithful 
wife,  Isabella  James  Bush. 

The  Bush  family  arrived  in  what  is  now  known  as  Thurs- 
ton County  as  early  as  18-15,  while  this  section  was  an  un- 
broken wilderness  and  with  their  party  consisting  of  about 
thirty  people  were  the  very  first  settlers  north  of  the  Co- 
lumbia River. 

The  original  families  consisted  of  the  Bush  family,  father, 
mother  and  five  sons,  William  0.,  Joseph  T.,  Eeilly  B.,  Henr> 
Sanford  and  Jackson  J. ;  Mr.  and  Mrs.  M.  Simmons  with  theii 
four  sons,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  McAllister  with  their  son  and  two 
daughters;  David  and  i\rrs.  Talitha  Kindred  and  their  son 
John  K. ;  the  Jones  family,  consisting  of  father  and  mothei 
and  sons  Lewis  and  ]\Iorris  and  daughter,  Elizabeth  and  twc 
!-:ing!e  men,  Samuel   Crockett  and  Jesse  Ferguson. 

When  the  start  was  made  from  the  old  home  in  Missouri 
the  elder  Bush  had  laid  in  a  bountiful  stock  of  supplies, 
enough  to  last  him  and  his  own  family  for  several  years  ol 
frontier  life,  but  all  his  associates  had  not  been  so  well 
equipped  and  even  before  the  last  and  final  stop  was  made 
there  was  a  shortage  of  necessities  among  several  ol 
the  emigrant  families.  Bush,  with  the  generosity  and  kind 
heartedness  which  was  his  most  marked  characteristic,  divided 
Avith  the  less  fortunate,  even  to  the  subsequent  deprivation  ot 
his  own  family. 

Keaching  Puget  Sound,  the  families  settled  on  what  ha& 
ever  since  been  known  as  Bush  Prairie,  and  took  up  donatior. 
claims  of  640  acres  to  a  family.  Lewis  Bush  enjoys  the  dis 
tuiction  of  being  the  only  man  living  on  an  original  donatior, 
claim  west  of  the  mountains.  In  every  other  instance  the  orig 
inal  owners  of  claims  have  parted  with  them,  but  the  Bush 
claims   has   descended   in   an   unbroken   line   frt/m   the   father 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  321 

George  Bush,   to   the   youngest  son   and   to   a   grandson,   ]\[r 
John  S.  Bush,  son  of  W.  0.  Bush. 

The  first  winter  spent  on  Puget  Sound  was  one  to  try 
mens'  souls,  there  was  absolutely  nothing  in  the  way  of  pro- 
visions to  be  bought  for  love  or  money.  It  is  true  the  Hudson 
Bay  Company  had  a  post  on  the  Nesqually  with  Dr.  Tolmie 
manager,  but  already  there  was  a  feeling  of  jealousy  spring- 
ing up  in  the  minds  of  the  managers  of  the  company,  over  the 
rapidly  increasing  number  of  emigrants  coming  to  share  the 
ranges  and  preempt  the  fertile  land.  The  agents  were  forbid- 
den to  extend  aid  to  the  settlers,  so  although  Dr.  Tolmie  wa^. 
inclined  to  feel  kindly  towards  the  newcomers,  he  was  for 
bidden  to  openly  sell  them  the  necessaries  of  life. 

Clams,  salmon,  game  and  oysters  were  the  substantiak 
of  diet  eked  out,  with  a  little  wheat  and  dried  peas,  which 
still  remained  of  the  stores.  The  settlers  learned  to  eat  with 
relish  the  roots  of  ferns  which  they  used  as  green  stuff.  Flour 
there  was  none  until  the  Simmons  mill  was  finished  in  New- 
market. 

The  men  of  the  new  settlement  went  right  to  work  l)uild- 
ing  cabins  for  shelter  for  their  families  against  the  winter 
weather,  which  Avas  about  to  close  in  on  them.  The  cabins 
were  covered  with  split  shakes  and  the  floors  were  of  pun- 
cheon, while  the  few  simple  articles  of  furniture  were  manu- 
factured from  the  cedar  logs  lying  in  profusion  on  the  ground. 

IMr.  Bush,  shortly  after  his  arrival,  set  out  fruit  and  shade 
trees,  the  seeds  of  which  he  had  brought  Math  him  from  his 
old  home.  Manj^  of  these  trees  grew  and  flourished  and 
stand  to  this  day,  noble  monuments  to  the  hardy  old  pioneer 

George  Bush  died  in  1863  and  his  wife  a  couple  of  years 
later.  After  their  deaths  the  homestead  passed  into  the  hands 
of  his  three  sons,  W.  0.,  J.  T..  and  H.  S.  Bush.  In  time  W 
0.  Bush  married  and  became  the  father  of  the  lady  who  is 
now  Mrs.  George  Gaston  and  John  Bush.  Lewis  Bush,  in 
speaking  of  his  earlier  experiences  on  the  old  homestead,  said  : 

"Yes,  those  were  hard  times.  We  all  had  to  scramble 
for  enough  to  eat.  There  was  simply  nothing  we  could  buy 
from  any  market  for  several  years.  I  remember  one  summer 
day  an  old  squaw  came  to  our  house  with  something  to  eat. 
which  she  wanted  to  sell.     ^Mother  tried  to  dicker  with  her  lint 


322  THURSTON  COUNTY 

she  onl.y  wanted  clothes.  Jloney  was  of  no  use  to  her.  Shf 
wanted  a  shirt  for  one  of  her  papooses.  Now,  we  had  been 
away  from  home  a  long-  time  and  clothing  was  getting  scarce 
but  mother  wanted  whatever  it  was  the  squaAv  had  S3  badly 
that  she  stripped  the  shirt  off  of  my  brother  Sanford's  back 
and  gave  it  to  the  siwash. 

"I  was  born  on  the  homestead  after  the  folks  reached 
Bush  Prairie,  so  I  cannot  remember  as  well  as  could  my 
brothers  about  the  Indian  war.  I  know  we  were  all  anxious 
and  worried  for  several  months  and  when  the  first  scare  was 
on  and  the  red  skins  had  killed  McAllister  and  Northcraft 
father  moved  his  family  into  the  Fort  at  Tumwater  for  a 
while.  But  as  time  went  on  he  was  anxious  to  get  back  to  his 
place,  as  were  the  other  settlers  of  our  neighborhood,  so  they 
went  to  work  and  built  a  fort  of  their  own  on  father's  farm. 

"Saplings  probably  fourteen  feet  long  Vv'ere  cut  from  the 
woods  and  a  trench  dug  several  feet  deep.  In  this  trench 
was  set  upright  the  saplings  in  a  double  roAv  clear  around  the 
enclosure.  This  made  a  high  wall  which  was  practically  bullet 
proof.  Inside  this  enclosure  w^ere  the  cabins  of  the  settlers — 
each  by  themselves.  We  were  comfortable  enough  and  live5 
that  way  for  several  months.  This  fort  was  ahvays  knowr 
as  Bushs'  fort. 

"I  was  a  big  lad,  probably  twelve  years  old,  before  I  had 
my  first  pair  of  shoes.  There  were  none  to  be  had  in  all  the 
country,  so  I  was  forced  to  go  barefoot,  not  that  I  considered 
that  any  hardship,  for  I  was  used  to  it  and  only  wanted  shoes 
to  put  on  style  with.  Well,  when  the  first  sailing  vessel  came 
into  harbor  at  Olympia.  father  went  on  board  to  see  what  of 
the  cargo  he  could  buy.  There  was  a  whole  box  of  shoes  of 
all  sizes  among  the  articles  father  bought.  Of  course,  the 
elders  had  first  pick  at  the  shoes  and  when  I  had  a  turn  at 
the  box  there  was  only  one  pair  of  No.  10s  left.  They  would 
have  been  big  enough  for  any  large  man  but  I  was  only  toe 
tickled  to  get  them  and  wore  the  shoes  with  great  pride  or 
Sundays  and  special  occasions.  Those  shoes  lasted  me  foi 
years. 

"Mother  made  friends  with  Dr.  Tolmie  and  it  was  through 
him  that  she  got  her  first  start  in  poultry  and  sheep.  She  had 
traded  for  a  few  hens  from  a  French  familv  who  were  con 


I'lONEER  REMINISCENCES  323 

neetecl  with  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  and  -when  one  of  thesf 
hens  showed  her  willingness,  to  set,  mother  got  a  setting  of 
tnrkey  eggs  from  Dr.  Tolmie.  She  was  very  successful  with 
this  hatching  and  by  coddling  those  young  turks  soon  had  a 
nice  flock.  Dr.  Tolmie  had  not  been  so  lucky  with  his  turkey? 
so  he  told  mother  he  would  trade  her  a  fine  ewe  for  everv 
turkey  she  would  let  him  have.  She  was  glad  to  do  so  anc' 
in  that  way  she  got  the  first  start  of  the  large  flock  of  sheep 
which  Avas  one  of  the  greatest  sources  of  profit  in  a  fcAv  years. 
From  Dr.  Tolmie  also  we  got  the  first  start  of  hogs.  Well,  sr 
we  lived  for  years,  always  getting  ahead  a  little  and  I  am  glac 
to  say.  always  having  a  little  to  share  with  our  poorer  neigh 
bors.  Neither  father  nor  mother  could  bear  to  deny  anyone 
v\'ho  applied  to  them  for  assistance." 

Lewis  Bush  might  have  gone  on  and  related  how  the 
Bushs,  father  and  sons  were  always  willing  and  ready  to  ex- 
tend a  helping  hand  to  the  settlers  who  soon  began  to  pour 
into  the  country.  The  Bush  farm  was  the  stopping  place  be- 
tween the  settlements  of  Olympia  and  New  Market  and  the 
Cowlitz  landing  and  there  are  still  men  and  women  living 
who  can  recall  being  entertained  at  this  home.  Night  or  day 
the  Bushs  kept  open  house  to  all  comers — no  one  was  turned 
away  without  being  fed  and  sheltered  and  in  many  cases  their 
wagons  carried  substantial  gifts  of  fruit,  garden  truck  and 
grain  from  ^Ir.  Bush's  abundant  stores. 

Mr.  George  H.  Himes  relates  a  story  about  the  elder  Bush 
which  is  given  here  as  being  characteristic  of  the  open  handed 
generosity  of  not  only  himself  but  his  six  sons  as  well.  One 
year  there  was  a  great  scarcity  of  grain.  The  yield,  owing  to 
unfavorable  conditions,  was  unusually  small.  Seattle  by  this 
time  was  quite  a  town  and  speculators  from  that  place  came  to 
Mr.  Bush  and  offered  him  an  almost  fabulous  price  for  all  his 
harvest.  They  were  astounded  when  their  offer  was  refused, 
and  were  very  chagrined  over  their  failure  to  corner  the  out- 
put of  grain.  They  asked  ]\Ir.  Bush  what  he  intended  do- 
ing with  his  surplus. 

"I'll  just  keep  my  grain  to  let  my  n('iglil)ors  who  have 
had  failures  have  enough  to  live  on  and  for  seeding  their 
fields  in  the  spring.     They  have  no  money  to  pay  your  fancy 


324 


THURSTON  COUNTY 


prices  and  I  don't  intend  to  see  them  want  for  anything  in 
my  power  to  provide  them  with." 

With  the  flight  of  years  the  Bush  homestead  developed 
into  a  model  farm  nnder  the  skillful  management  of  W.  0. 
Bush,  who  took  great  pride  in  raising  and  preparing  for  ex- 
hibition samples  of  the  grain  and  produce  grown  on  his  place. 
Exhibits  were  made  at  the  World's  fairs  of  Philadelphia,  Chi- 
cago and  Buffalo,  which  attracted  general  attention  and  won 
for  Bush  medals  and  diplomas  from  all  three  fairs.  These 
exhibits  were  of  inestimable  value  in  advertising  the  resources 
of  the  Territory  of  Washington  and  besides  the  medals  and 
diplomas  awarded  IMr.  Bush  personally  the  County  of  Thurs- 
ton and  the  Territory  and  State  of  Washington  were  also 
awarded  medals  for  the  best  exhibit  of  grains  made  by  an> 
section  of  the  entire  United  States.  In  the  planting,  selection 
and  arranging  of  the  specimens  IMr.  Bush  was  assisted  by  hi*' 
young  daughter,  Belle,  who  took  as  great  an  interest  and 
pride  in  the  exhibit  as  did  her  father.  That  young  girl  is  no\% 
Mrs.  George  Gaston  of  Olyrapia. 


PIONEER   REMINISCENCES  325 


CAPTAIN  SAMUEL  WILLEY 


In  reviewing  the  list  of  men  who  have  been  most  promi- 
nently identified  with  the  development  of  Thnrston  County 
business  it  was  considered  appropriate  to  mention  the  men 
who  organized  what  has  for  many  years  been  known  as  the 
iS.  Willey  Navigation  Company. 

Although  the  Willeys',  father  and  sons,  were  not  the  first 
men  to  venture  their  fortunes  in  water  craft  plying  between 
Olympia  and  down  Sound  points,  their  steamers  ^lultnomah 
and  City  of  Aberdeen  were  so  well  known  on  Puget  Sound 
that  they  are  actually  a  part  of  the  history  of  Thurston 
County. 

Captain  Samuel  Willey  was  one  of  the  gold  seekers  in 
California  as  early  as  1859,  leaving  his  family  in  their  home 
in  Cherryfield,  Maine,  while  he  pursued  the  search  of  the 
Golden  Fleece.  After  having  enjoyed  a  fair  measure  of  succes5> 
from  mining  in  Syskiyou  County,  Mr.  Willey  decided  to  re 
turn  to  the  East  again.  He  remained  with  his  family  until 
1867  when  he  came  out  West  again,  this  time  settling  in  Mason 
County.  The  family  were  then  sent  for  and  the  fortunes  of 
the  Willeys  became  identified  with  this  section  of  the  country 
lie  engaged  in  lumbering  during  the  first  few  years  of  his 
Washington  residence,  but  when,  in  1880,  his  son,  Lafayette, 
P.  L.,  and  George,  organized  the  S.  Willey  Navigation  Com 
pany  the  elder  Willey  removed  to  Olympia  and  built  his 
comfortable  home  on  Eighth  street,  where  he  died  in  the 
year   1897. 

The  Willey  family  consisted  of  the  father  and  mother 
three  brothers  and  a  sister.  Shortly  after  their  arrival  here 
the  brothers  took  the  contract  for  carrying  the  mail  between 
Olympia  and  Oakland,  which  was  then  the  county  seat  of 
Mason  County.  For  two  years  the  brothers  carried  the  mail 
twenty-five  miles  in  a  row  boat  and  then  over  a  country  road 
for  a  further  twelve  miles,  until  finally  they  felt  justified  in 
investing  in  a  tiny  steamer,  the  Hornet.  This  gave  place  within 
a  short  time  to  the  Susie,  which  in  turn  was  replaced  by  the 


326  THURSTON  COUNTY 

AVilley.  This  latter  steamer  was  quite  a  good-sized  craft  and 
was  put  on  the  run  between  Olympia  and  Shelton.  In  1889 
the  Willeys  purchased  the  Multnomah  and  a  little  later  the 
City  of  Aberdeen  and  put  them  on  the  run  between  this  citj 
and  Seattle,  the  elder  brothers  becoming  Captains  of  the  boats 
The  sister  of  the  Willey  brothers,  Lucretia,  was  an 
especially  pretty  and  charming  young  girl  and  Avas  an  un- 
disputed belle  of  ]\Iason  County  up  to  the  time  of  her  marriage 
to  Mr.  Leighton  and  came  to  Olympia  to  make  her  home.  Sht 
became  the  mother  of  two  children,  Charles  Leighton  of  Seattle 
and  her  daughter,  Bertha.  IMrs.  Leighton  died  at  the  home  of 
the  latter  in  Olympia  in  1911. 


ELISHA  NELSON  SARJENT 


When  on  August  28,  191-1:,  Elisha  X.  Sarjent  passed  ovei 
the  Great  Divide,  there  disappeared  one  who  had  been  a 
familiar  landmark  in  Thurston  County  for  the  past  65  years — 
one  who  had  been  identified  with  the  development  of  thii> 
section  of  "Washington  from  earliest  pioneer  days. 

Elisha  Sarjent  was  gathered  to  his  fathers  after  a  lift 
rich  in  experiences  such  as  are  encountered  by  but  few — nont 
in  these  later  days.  Coming  to  Puget  Sound  in  the  wintei 
of  1849-50  he  at  once  identified  himself  with  the  frontier  life 
of  the  region  he  had  selected  for  his  future  home.  Mr.  Sarjent 
lived  to  the  ripe  old  age  of  eighty-seven  years  and  at  the 
funeral  his  friend  of  many  years.  Hon.  Allen  Wier,  pronounced 
the  following  heartfelt  eulogy : 

"Elisha  Nelson  Sarjent  Avas  born  September  8,  1827,  ir 
Fountain  County,  Indiana.  In  1849  he  left  Indiana  on  his 
way  to  the  gold  fields  of  California.  While  crossing  the 
plains  he  was  lost  for  fourteen  days  before  he  got  back  to  hi« 
train.     lie  did  not  remain  in  California  long,  but  purshed  his 


PIONEER   REMINISCENCES  327 

way  north  and  west  and  arrived  at  Puget  Sound  on  a  sailing 
vessel  during  the  winter  of  1849-50,  thus  identifying  himsell 
with  the  original  and  adventurous  gold  seekers  commonly 
known  as  '4ners.'  He  helped  to  build  the  first  house  in 
Olympia,  thus  his  identity  as  one  of  the  real  argonauts  of 
Thurston  County  is  established. 

"Among  his  experiences  in  the  then  unknown  wilds  of  the 
great  Northwest,  was  being  shipwrecked  in  Queen  Charlotte 
Sound,  among  the  Northern  Indians,  in  the  winter  of  1851-52. 
vv'hen  he  and  others  were  captured  and  held  among  hostile 
savages  during  a  period  of  fifty-three  days.  Among  his  com.- 
panions  was  John  Thornton,  a  respected  old-time  citizen  and 
resident  of  Clallam  County,  in  this  State. 

"In  1853  Mr.  Sarjent  went  out  from  the  Puget  Sound 
basin  across  the  Cascade  ^Mountains  and  met  the  incoming 
immigrant  train  and  piloted  the  new  comers  through  the 
Natchez  Pass  into  Pierce  County.  This  was  the  first  influx 
of  settlers  coming  by  way  of  the  Natchez  Pass.  Among  those 
coming  at  that  time  were  members  of  the  Himes  family  who 
settled  in  Olympia,  and  the  family  of  Mrs.  Frasier,  who  was 
reported  as  coming  into  this  country  riding  on  the  back 
of    an    ox. 

"Mr.  Sarjent  saw  valiant  service  in  the  Indian  war  of 
1855-56,  in  which  he  was  a  First  Lieutenant  of  Volunteers 

"He  took  a  donation  claim  near  Grand  ]\Iound,  in  Thurs- 
ton County,  where  his  house  has  stood  for  something  like 
sixty-five  years,  and  where  he  was  married  more  than  fifty- 
four  years  ago.  His  wife,  who  was  Miss  Lucretia  Mounts, 
has  been  by  his  side  during  these  years,  a  faithful  helpmeet 
through  good  and  evil  report.  Their  two  sons,  Fred  Sarjent 
and  Asher  Sarjent,  with  their  families  were  among  the  sorrow- 
ing mourners  at  the  funeral. 

"Mr.  Sarjent  was  one  of  the  most  modest  of  men,  seldom 
speaking  of  these  trying  times  that  tested  the  courage  and 
manhood  of  those  who  had  to  stand  guard  at  block  house 
defenses  and  protect  the  women  and  children  from  hostile 
attack.  Nevertheless,  his  duty  was  always  cpiietly  performed, 
and  with  credit  to  himself.  No  one  ever  heard  of  a  dishonor- 
able act  on  his  part,  and  a  significant  comment  by  one  of  his 
nearest  neighbors  was  that  during  an  intimate  acquaintance 
of  something  like   sixty  years,   when   line   fences  were   often 


328  THURSTON  COUNTY 

out  of  repair  and  stock  became  frequently  mixed  up,  nothing 
even  remotely  resembling*  a  quarrel  ever  occurred. 

''Could  anj^thing  more  fully  attest  the  sterling  worth  of 
the  hardy  manhood  and  womanhood  of  our  honored  pioneers? 
"May  their  shadows  never  be  less,   and  the   worthy  ex- 
ample thus  shown  be  followed  by  later  comers. 

"Nelson  Sarjent  has  gone  to  his  reward.  Like  a  sheaf 
of  fully  ripened  grain,  he  has  been  gathered.  His  example 
has  been  one  of  duty  fully  performed.  His  place  among  the 
army  of  worthy  citizens  who  demonstrated  their  right  in  the 
front  rank  of  worthy  pioneers  of  this  great  Northwest  has 
passed  beyond  question. 

"On  Fame's   eternal   camping   ground 
Their  silent   tents  are   spread. 
While  glory  guard  with  solemn  round 
Their  bivouac  of  the  dead." 


MR.  P.  D.  MOORE 


Hale,  clear-minded,  genial  and  active  with  a  life  of  almost 
ninety  years  stretching  out  behind  him,  Mr.  P.  D.  Moore  is 
a  remarkable  example  of  the  staunch  timber  that  went  to- 
wards the  making  of  the  men  and  women  of  the  past  century. 

When  this  grand  old-young  man  was  asked  to  contribute 
some  of  his  reminiscences  of  early  days  on  Puget  Sound,  of 
which  he  was  in  a  position  to  recall  many,  owing  to  his  long 
residence  here  and  the  many  stirring  events  of  which  he  was 
a  participant,  Mr.  Moore  said: 

"It  is  over  fifty  years  since  I  first  came  t')  Olympia  and 
on  my  arrival  I  was  pleasantly  surprised  to  find  not  only  a 
charming  climate  and  magnificent  scenery  but  its  people 
educated,  cultured,  enterprising  and  extremely  hospitable  and 
neighborly,  reminding  me  of  a  New  England  town.  Of  cours*^ 
the  country  was  new  and  the  town  young,  but  the  people  were 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  32? 

as  one  family,  helpful,  generous  and  sociable.  Whether  it  b*^ 
a  funeral  or  a  dance  everybody  was  there.  IMoney  was  plenti- 
ful and  prices  of  products  and  goods  were  high,  but  there  were 
no  croakers  or  kickers.  In  1864  Blockhouse  Smith  sold  to 
Charlie  Williams  five  tons  of  butter  at  55  cents  a  pound.  Th'^ 
same  year  the  only  4th  of  July  celebration  on  Puget  Sound  wa" 
at  Olympia  when  seventeen  steamers  brought  crowds  and  it 
was  estimated  that  between  four  and  five  thousand  peopk 
assmbied  at  the  Capital  grounds  to  do  honor  to  the  Nation's 
birthday.  Governor  Pickering  presided.  On  Christmas  day. 
the  only  Christmas  tree  was  in  the  hall  of  the  AVashington 
hotel  (now  the  NeAv  England  Hotel),  but  there  were  presents 
en  that  tree  of  a  total  value  of  over  $2,500  and  everybod\ 
was  there. 

''The  principal  merchants  of  Olympia  when  I  first  came 
here  were  Chas.  E.  Williams,  Edmund  Sylvester,  L.  Bettman 
George  Barnes,  I.  Lichtner  and  I.  Harris.  But  we  also  had 
the  "Busy  B's" — Bush,  Barnes,  Biles,  Billings,  Blankenship. 
Brown,  Bettman,  Bigelow  and  Beatty.  They  have  all  passed 
to  the  "Great  Beyond",  except  Mr.  Beatty,  who  still  remains 
with  us  in  the  enjoyment  of  a  ripe  old  age. 

"In  1863  I  was  appointed  by  President  Lincoln,  Collector 
of  Internal  Revenue  for  Washington  and  Idaho,  and  then  1 
brought  my  family  from  New  Jersey,  and  on  the  Bark 
Naramisie  they  were  sixty-three  days  coming  from  San  Fran- 
cisco to  Puget  Sound,  breaking  the  record  for  time  in  coming 
from  San  Francisco. 

"In-  those  early  days — the  '60s — there  were  many  ex- 
citing and  interesting  events.  In  the  session  of  the  Legislature 
in  1868  the  House  of  Representatives  elected  me  its  Chaplain, 
the  firxt  instance  of  a  free-thinking  Quaker  being  elected  to 
that  office.  At  the  same  session  Miss  Peebles,  now  Mrs.  Mack- 
intosh, of  Seattle,  and  mother  of  Judge  Mackintosh,  was 
elected  Enrolling  and  Engrosing  Clerk,  being  the  first  woman 
elected  to  serve  in  a  legislative  body  in  the  history  of  the  world. 
I  may  add  she  done  her  work  so  promptly  and  ably  that  she 
received  the  unanimous  commendation  of  the  House  of  Rep- 
resentatives. 

"At  a  session  of  the  Legislature,  Chas.  Bradshaw  was 
elected  President  of  the  Council,  hut  as  he  did  not  act  to  suit 


330  THURSTON  COUNTY 

H.  K.  Striive,  also  a  member  of  the  Counoil,  he  was  deposed 
from  the  Presidency  by  Struve's  vote,  whereupon  Striive,  by 
his  own  vote,  made  himself  President  of  the  Council.  This 
procedure  caused  much  excitement  in  Olympia  and  an  indigna- 
tion meeting,  largely  attended,  was  held,  at  which  Garfield  and 
others  scored  Struve  severely.  Struve  was  for  a  long  time  Secre- 
tary of  the  Territory,  during  which  time  and  when  he  was  a 
member  of  the  Legislature,  he  was  not  a  citizen,  never  having 
been  naturalized,  and  moreover  he  was  a  deserter  from  the 
Army,  liable  to  be  caught  and  shot.  Some  cheek  and  some  nerve 
that!  But  it  must  be  admitted,  nevertheless,  he  was  a  very 
able  and  useful  man.  In  1864  or  65,  I  obtained  from  the  East 
the  first  Early  Rose  potatoes,  paying  $2.00  a  pound  for  them, 
and  I  also  introduced  the  first  asparagus  at  the  same  time, 
both  being  the  first  introduced  in  the  Pacific  Northwest,  and 
very  successfully  cultivated  in  my  garden  at  Main  and  Four- 
teenth Streets,  where  there  has  recently  been  erected  a 
large  apartment  house. 

"I  took  the  U.  S.  Census  in  1870  for  Thurston  and  Lewis 
Counties,  and  at  that  time  Olympia  was  the  largest  town  or 
city  in  the  Territory,  having  a  population  of  1,232,  and  nearly 
a  hundred  more  than  Seattle.  In  taking  the  census  in  Lewis 
County  I  came  across  Marcel  Bernier,  born  in  1820  of  French 
Canadian  parents  at  Fort  Colville,  being  the  first  white  child 
born  in  the  Commonwealth  of  Washington.  In  1880  I  took 
the  U.  S.  Census  in  Chehalis  County,  and  where  Aberdeen 
is  now,  I  found  only  Sam  Benn  and  family,  and  at  Hoquiam 
only  two  families — Ed.  Campbell  and  family,  and  ]\Ir.  Karr 
and  family.     Some  growth  at  these  two  places  since  then ! 

"Olympia  had  a  prominent  character  in  the  person  of 
Mrs.  Rebecca  Howard,  proprietor  of  the  principal  hotel — the 
Pacific  House,  at  the  corner  of  Third  and  Main  Streets.  She 
was  a  handsome  colored  woman  from  Boston,  Mass.,  and  a 
very  enterprising,  popular  and  successful  business  woman. 
Some  addressed  her  as  Aunt  Becky,  instead  of  ]\Irs.  Howard, 
but  she  resented  it.  On  one  occasion  a  somewhat  eminent  man 
addressed  her  as  Aunt  Becky  and  she  promptly  inquired  of 
him  whether  she  was  his  father's  or  his  mother's  sister. 

"When  the  news  of  President  Lincoln's  assassination  was 
received  in  Olympia,  the  Democratic  party  was  holding  its 
Territorial   Convention   here.     INIajor   Haller   Avas   a   delegate 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  •  331 

and  was  in  my  office  when  the  word  came.  He  was  overcome 
with  emotion  and  freely  shed  manly  tears,  and  went  to  the 
convention  and  proposed  an  adjournment  without  making  a 
nomination  for  Delegate  to  Congress,  Avhieh  nearly  carried. 

"I  Avas  a  witness  and  participant  in  several  very  dramatic 
events  on  Puget  Sound  in  the  early  '60s— notably  the  capture 
of  the  Custom  House  at  Port  Townsend  in  1862,  when  the  guns 
of  the  Revenue  Cutter,  double-shotted  were  brought  to  bear 
on  the  Custom  House  and  notice  given  to  surrender  or  at  the 
end  of  fifteen  minutes  the  building  would  be  shelled. 

"Also  the  capture  of  the  'Shubrick'  in  the  middle  of  the 
Straits  of  Fuea,  when  an  attempt  was  made  to  run  into  the 
rebel  service.  The  details  of  these  and  other  events  have  an 
historic  interest  which  I  hope  to  write  out  some  time.  But 
you  must  now  excuse  me,  as,  although  I  am  about  89  years 
}oung,  yet  I  am  a  busy  man." 

Mr.  Moore  w^as  born  in  Rahway,  New  Jersey,  and  married 
Miss  Phoebe  Earle  in  Newark  of  the  same  State.  Ten  children 
were  born  to  the  couple,  of  w^hom  only  three  still  live :  A. 
Schooley,  Janet  S.  and  Lindley  D.  Of  the  remaining  children, 
two  boys,  Edward  and  Phillip,  and  a  daughter,  Ella  D.,  died 
before  the  family  ventured  their  fortunes  in  the  West.  The 
eldest  daughter,  Lida,  became  the  wife  of  W.  P.  Winans,  a 
Walla  Walla  banker  and  capitalist,  and  became  the  mother 
of  three  sons,  Gilbert  P.,  Phillip  ]M.  and  Allen  Lida,  all  making 
their  home  in  Walla  Walla.  Mrs.  Winans  died  in  San  Fran- 
cisco many  years  ago,  but  her  memory  is  still  cherished  by 
the  pioneers  of  an  early  day  of  Thurston  County.  The  chil- 
dren who  died  in  Olympia  are  Waldo  G.,  Gerald  and  Edna 
W.,  the  latter  having  become  ]\Irs.  Eddings  and  the  mother 
of  one  daughter.  Edna  Earle  Eddings.  Mrs.  Moore  died  in 
Olympia  on  July  17,  1899,  after  a  well  spent  life,  during  which 
time  she  had  liad  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  her  living  children 
all  grown  to  maturity  and  comfortably  settled  in  life.  IMrs. 
j\Ioore  was  a  charter  member  of  the  Woman's  Club  of  Olympia 
and  a  leader  in  every  good  work  for  the  benefit  of  mankind 
and  the  uplift  of  society. 


332  THURSTON  COUNTY 


CAPTAIN  SAMUFL  WING  PERCIVAL 


(By  His  Daughter,  Georgiana  Percival  Ford.) 

Captain  Samuel  Wing  Percival  of  Hanover,  Mass.,  had 
i'ollowed  the  sea  from  a  boy  until  the  time  of  his  marriage, 
and  had  shown  such  aptitude  and  evinced  so  high  a  sense  of 
responsibility^  that  he  was  made  master,  by  the  owners  of 
the  vessel,  on  his  third  voyage.  These  voyages  were  to  ports 
on  the  Mediterrean  Sea,  Barcelona,  Marseilles,  Constantinople 
and  through  the  Black  Sea  to  Odessa,  also  through  the  Baltic 
Sea  to  St.  Petersburg,  and  while  these  voyages  were  not  lack- 
ing in  thrilling  experiences,  he  brought  his  ship  safely  to  port 
each  trip,  and  letters  from  the  owners  are  preserved  filled  with 
expressions  of  commendation  and  gratitude.  These  letters 
show  a  high  ideal,  and  abound  with  expressions  that  would 
doubtless  cause  great  surprise  today,  counseling  the  young 
captain  to  hold  the  honorable  name  of  the  ship's  owners  above 
dollars  and  cents,  and  voicing  their  full  confidence  in  their 
belief  that  he  would  never  descend  to  a  dishonorable  transac- 
tion for  mere  gain. 

Mrs.  Lurana  Ware  Percival  made  the  trip  from  her  home 
in  Plymouth,  Mass.,  around  Cape  Horn,  arriving  at  San  Fran- 
cisco May  5th,  1850.  She  embarked  from  New  York  on  the 
Clipper  Brig  ''Reindeer"  and  the  trip  was  made  in  153  sail- 
ing days,  the  record  trip  to  that  date.  The  weather  and  other 
conditions  were  favorable  for  ia  successful  and  interesting 
voyage,  and  she  always  spoke  of  the  varied  experiences  of 
that  five  months'  journey  with  great  pleasure. 

She  found  San  Francisco  a  small  Mexican-Spanish  town, 
consisting  of  a  row  of  adobe  houses  around  the  Plaza,  a  few 
frame  houses  and  many  zinc  houses  and  tents  scattered  over 
vacant  lots,  reaching  from  Broadway  street  to  Telegraph  Hill. 
She  landed  from  the  ship's  boat  on  Montgomery  street,  the 
bay  extending  to  the  street. 

In  November,  1850,  she  went  with  friends  to  Portland, 
Oregon.  A  number  of  passengers  were  anxious  to  get  into 
the  Territory  before  the  time  expired  to  secure  640  acres  of 
land.     For  this  reason  the   Captain   took  his   ship   in   to   th<^ 


VmW                                    \ 

JBf.                '  ^  \ 

m^^^^ 

K 

CAPT.  AND  MRS.  S.  W.  PERCIVAI^ 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  333 

Umpqiia  River,  and  landed  these  passengers  and  they  walked 
to  Rosebv.rg.  IJmpqua  City  consisted  of  two  small  zinc 
houses,  occupied  by  a  few  white  men,  who  had  taken  claims 
and  were  trading  with  the  Indians,  and  a  settlement  of  Indian 
houses;  these  houses  were  boarded  around  the  sides,  the  tops 
covered  with  Indian  mats.  In  a  paper  entitled  "Personal 
Feminiscences  of  Early  Days,"  read  before  the  Woman's  Club 
of  Olympia,  (from  v.^hieh  many  of  the  incidents  given  are 
gleaned)  my  mother  says:  "I  had  never  seen  such  long  and 
wide  boards,  they  were  from  three  to  four  feet  wide.  Upon 
inquiry  I  learned  that  the  Indians  burned  the. tree  instead  of 
cutting  it  down,  split  the  cedar  logs  into  boards  by  driving 
ir  wedges,  then  kept  them  over  a  slow  fire  until  they  were  suffi- 
ciently charred  to  be  rubbed  with  smooth  stones  until  they  were 
the  required  thickness  and  nicely  polished."  JMrs.  Percival  was 
the  first  Avhite  Avoman  to  step  on  shore  at  the  mouth  of  the 
IJmpqua  River,  and  was  a  great  curiosity  to  the  natives,  who 
were  most  attentive  to  her,  coming  out  to  the  ship  in  canoe? 
the  next  day,  with  presents  of  huckleberries,  which  grew  in 
great  abundance  near  the  village,  and  when  she  was  on  shore, 
liending  down  the  bushes,  w^hich  were  high,,  that  she  might 
pick  the  berries.  The  bay  being  land-locked  with  a  dangerous 
bar,  the  captain  waited  ten  days  for  a  fair  w4nd  to  enable  him 
to  cross  in  safety;  during  this  time  the  weather  was  delight- 
fully warm  and  those  who  wished  to  go  were  one  day  rowed 
up  the  river  about  ten  miles  to  a  beautiful  island,  where  coffee 
was  made  and  a  picnic  lunch  served.  Picnics  and  ripe  huck- 
leberries late  in  November  were  amazing  facts  to  a  young 
woman  from  the  New  England  states. 

The  Columbia  River  bar  was  reached  late  in  the  after- 
noon and  found  to  be  very  rough.  No  pilot  responded  to  the 
captain's  signals,  so  he  steered  off  coast  for  more  sea  room: 
and  it  was  well  he  did,  for  my  mother  records  that  they  had. 
1hat  night,  the  hardest  storm  she  ever  experienced  at  sea.  The 
decks  were  washed  of  every  thing  movable,  bulwarks  stove 
in,  cargo  shifted,  so  that  the  vessel  lay  over  on  one  sid(>:  the 
sailors  performed  their  duties  with  ropes  fastened  about  their 
waists;  several  seas  Avashed  entirely  over  the  ship,  forcing 
water  through  the  skylight  into  the  cabin,  where  the  passengers 
sat  speechless.  The  storm  abated  as  morning  dawned  and  the 
entire  day  was  given  to  righting  the  vessel,  using  the  pumns 


334  THURSTON  COUNTY 

nnd  moving  the  cargo;  thoy  had  drifted  so  far  that  two  days 
were  required  to  return  to  the  river. 

Again  failing  to  secure  a  pilot,  the  Captain  determined 
to  run  in  without  one,  although  it  was  his  first  trip  to  the 
Columbia  River.  He  crossed  the  bar  safely  and  was  soon  an- 
chored at  Astoria.  I  again  quote  from  the  paper  already  men- 
tioned:  "When  speaking  of  pioneer  life  on  the  Pacific  Coast, 
few^  ever  mention  the  difficult  and  dangerous  pioneer  work 
done  bj^  sailing  vessels  and  their  crews;  nearly  every  harbor 
and  river  on  the  coast  is  l)arred  except  Puget  Sound  and  it 
was  several  years  before  there  were  steam  tugs  enough  for 
all  these  ports.  Working  a  vessel  up  the  river  was  a  long  and 
tedious  trip  for  sailors ;  all  things  favorable,  it  took  from  a 
week  to  ten  days  to  reach  Portland  and  had  to  be  done  by 
kedging,  and  towing  with  row  boats." 

Portland  was  a  small  village,  there  were  no  cleared  streets 
and  the  townsite  having  been  heavily  timbered,  huge  stumps 
breast  high,  were  left  standing,  making  it  necessary  to  carry 
a  lantern  or  a  candle  after  dark,  and  it  was  the  custom  for  a 
box  of  candles  to  be  kept  by  the  door,  and  the  departing  eve- 
ning caller  was  handed  a  lighted  candle,  which  he  extinguished 
and  deposited  in  the  box  at  the  next  house  he  entered. 

There  was  but  one  house  boasting  a  brick  chimney,  the 
home  of  Captain  Nathaniel  Crosby  (grandfather  of  Samuel 
C.  Woodruff  and  Ada  Woodruff  Anderson,  author  of  "The 
Heart  of  the  Red  Firs"  and  "The  Strain  of  White,"  also 
Charles  A.  Burr,  Mrs.  ]Maude  Basse,  and  June  Burr).  The 
brick  for  the  chimney  and  other  materials  necessary  for  a 
well-built  house,  had  been  shipped  around  Cape  Horn,  and 
those  who  were  privileged  to  enjoy  the  delightful  hospitality 
of  that  home  were  fortunate  indeed.  While  in  Portland  a 
trip  was  made  in  a  rowboat  to  IMilwaukee,  to  be  present  at  the 
launching  of  the  first  steamer  built  in  Oregon,  the  "Lot  Whit- 
comb."  (On  this  occasion  Mrs.  Percival  made  the  acquaint- 
ance of  Judge  Matthew  P.  Deady).  All  were  handsomely 
entertained,  at  the  residence  of  ^Ir.  Lot  Whiteomb,  the  founder 
of  the  toAvu,  and  rowed  down  the  river  to  Portland  in  the 
evening.  Another  trip  was  one.  made  with  saddle  horses,  De- 
cember 31,  1850,  to  Oregon  City,  the  largest  village  on  the 
Willamette.     There  were  no  roads  and  the  party  followed  the 


PIONEER   REMINISCENCES  335 

rarrow  Indian  trails,  one  after  the  other,  in  true  Indian  style, 
ferrying  on  scows  pulled  by  ropes  stretched  across  the  river; 
the  hotel  Avas  very  comfortable  and  my  mother  was  happily 
surprised  to  meet  a  young  man  there,  who  had  come  around 
the  Horn  on  the  ship  she  had  passage  on.  She  also  made  the 
acquaintance  of  Captain  S.  W.  Percival,  (who  commanded 
the  schooner  "Crescent  City,"  also  loading  in  Portland)  Avhom 
she  afterward  married  in  San  Francisco,  April,  3rd,  1851.  The 
next  day  the  party  returned  to  Portland,  as  they  had  come, 
and  all  attended  the  New  Year's  ball  in  the  evening.  An- 
other outing  was  a  trip  to  Fort  Vancouver.  The  Willamette 
was  ferried,  a  forest  was  traversed  (now  East  Portland).  On 
the  banks  of  the  Columbia  River  men  were  found  with  very 
large  row  boats  to  convey  passengers  to  the  other  shore ;  as 
they  returned,  after  crossing  the  river  and  taking  the  horses, 
snow  began  to  fall,  thick  and  fast,  and  the  trail  was  soon 
obliterated.  The  party  consulted  and  decided  that,  as  the 
horses  were  cold  and  hungry,  they  w^ould  doubtless  take  the 
shortest  route  home,  and  ceased  to  guide  them.  They  emerged 
from  the  forest  before  dark  and  the  party  received  a  warm 
welcome  and  hot  supper  on  the  Brig  ''Reindeer,"  where  some 
uneasiness  had  been  felt  as  to  their  safety. 

After  his  marriage  my  father  purchased  a  large  store  on 
Washington  street,  San  Francisco,  and  commenced  business, 
occupying  the  stor.y  above  as  a  dwelling  house,  and  my  par- 
ents were  well  settled  by  the  first  of  May.  On  June  22,  they 
were  burned  out  by  the  third  great  fire,  wdiich  consumd  nearly 
all  the  city.  House,  furniture,  nearly  all  the  contents  of  the 
store  were  swept  away,  but  the  greater  part  of  the  clothing 
was  saved.  They  moved  into  an  unfinished  building  on  Mont- 
gomery street  and  began  business  again. 

In  1852  they  went  to  Parks  Bar,  a  good-sized  mining  town, 
on  the  Yuba  River.  While  there  they  buried  their  eldest 
child,  Lurana  Curtis  Percival,  and  at  the  end  of  the  year,  on 
account  of  the  prevalence  of  cholera,  and  the  failure  of  the 
mines  that  season,  they  returned  to  San  Francisco  and  took 
passage  on  the  Barque  Sarah  Warren,  Captain  A.  B.  Gove, 
deciding  to  begin  life  again  in  that  part  of  the  Northwest 
which  had  so  great  an  attraction  for  them.  They  arrived  in 
Olympia,  January  1,  1853. 


336  THURSTON  COUNTY 

]My  mother  was  the  sixth  woman  to  settle  in  town.  She 
Avi'ites :  "I  found  Llrs.  Geo.  Barnes,  Jlrs.  Simpson  P.  ]\Ioses, 
wife  of  Collector  of  Customs;  Mrs.  C.  H.  Hale,  I\Irs.  Close,  wife 
of  first  Methodist  minister,  and  JMrs.  Fischer,  (a  widow^.  Mrs. 
Adam  Wiley  was  living  on  a  claim  two  miles  down  the  bay. 
At  Tumwater  were  the  Simmons,  Crosby,  Barnes  and  Kindred 
families  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  R.  M.  Walker,  also  several  families 
on  the  prairies  beside  the  Chambers  and  Hays.  Our  principal 
amusement  was  horseback  riding,  so  we  were  quite  neighborly 
v^'ith  our  prairie  friends." 

Again,  I  quote:  ''We  commenced  housekeeping  in  one 
large  room,  ran  the  stovepipe  through  the  window,  one  corner 
was  kitchen,  one  bedroom,  one  store  room,  sitting  room  in 
center.  The  trees  had  been  felled  from  jMain  street  to  the 
water  (on  the  west)  as  far  as  Sixth  street,  and  from  Fourth 
street  to  the  water  (on  the  north).  All  along  the  beach  were 
Indian  huts,  and  the  whole  beach  was  lined  with  canoes.  The 
Indian  w^omen  had  all  the  work  to  do,  and  had  been  treated 
like  beasts  so  long  that,  for  a  time,  it  w^as  thought  to  be  use- 
less to  tr.y  to  teach  them  anything.  Each  family  would  take 
an  Indian  boy  and  most  of  them  were  quick  to  learn.  ***** 
For  several  years  we  were  our  own  dress  makers  and  milliners, 
took  care  of  each  other  when  sick,  and  in  fact,  did  all  kinds 
of  work,  even  to  making  the  most  of  our  furniture.  When  a 
few  of  the  squaws  learned  to  wash  and  iron  it  was  a  great 
help  to  us;  the  well  known  'Old  Betsy'  was  one  of  the  first 
t)  learn  ;  they  preferred  old  clothes  to  money  for  their  work 
until  they  learned  t)  sew.  During  the  year  of  1853  many 
families  came,  which  gave  us  plenty  of  society."  Record  is 
made  of  the  delightful  horseback  parties,  clam  bakes,  boat 
rides  and  dances,  and  Mrs-.  Percival  says:  "The  only  draw- 
back to  our  pleasure,  was  the  lenp-iii  of  time  it  took  to  hear 
from  our  eastern  friends.  We  had  a  steamer  from  San  Fran- 
cisco once  each  month,  bringing  our  mails;  sailing  vessels 
came,  often  bringing  freight,  passengers  and  news  from  San 
Francisco."  A  sewing  society  was  soon  formed,  and  at  the 
lirst  fair  $500.00  was  cleared,  which  sum  was  used  to  finish 
off  the  second  story  of  the  school  house  and  furnish  it  with 
seats,  two  chairs,  a  table  and  lamps,  that  the  clergymen  of 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  337 

any  denomination  might  hold  divine  iservieo.     The  Methodists 
were  the  first  to  build  a  ehnrch. 

In  1855  my  mother  visited  her  relatives  in  [Massachusetts. 
She  made  this  trip  by  way  of  the  Isthmus  of  Panama,  and 
returned  by  the  Niearuaga  Route,  accompanied  by  her  young- 
est sister,  Emma  E.  Cleale  (now  Mrs.  H.  F.  Cornwall,  of  Oak- 
land, Cal.),  and  the  adopted  infant  daughter  of  a  sister,  who 
had  been  called  from  earth  shortly  before  her  arrival  at  her 
old  home.  A  diary  account  (extracts  from  which  are  given) 
of  the  return  trip,  plainly  shows  that  more  hardships  and 
peril  attended  this  trip  than  the  one  "Around  the  Horn." 
[Memoranda  of  voyage  from  New  York  to  San  Francisco, 
in  1855.  (The  person  alluded  to  as  Gershom  was  the  child's 
father,  who  accompanied  his  sisters-in-law  to  the  Pacific 
Coast)  : 

Memoranda  of  Voyage  from  New  York  to  San  Francisco  in   1855 
Left  the  wharf  in  the  good  steamship  Northern  Light,  on  the 
evening  of  September  20th.     Emma  seasick ;  baby  worri- 
some. 
September  21 — Cloudy,  but  fine  breeze.    Baby  seasick.  Weather 

getting  warm  as  we  come  south. 
September  22. — Weather  very  warm.  JMany  passengers  seasick. 
September  23 — Sunday — a  very  fine  day.    No  preaching.    Sea- 
sick passengers  getting  better. 
September  24 — A  large  number  of  passengers  on  board,  over 
800,  great  many  on  deck  now,  some  watching  the  water, 
some  the  moon,  some  playing  cards,  whilst  other  pass  re- 
marks upon  them.     Babe  asleep. 
September  25 — Very  warm ;  passed  some  of  the  West  Indies 

today. 
September  26 — Passed  the  Isle  of  Cuba  this  morning  and  this 
eve  watched   the  sun  sink  behind  the  mountains   of  Ja- 
maica— -a  very  beautiful  sight.     Babe  l)egins  to  pick  up 
a  little. 
September  28 — Commenced  weighing  baggage.     I  had  to  i^ay 

.$15.65  for  two  trunks. 
September    29  —  Left    the     Northern     Light     at      Greytown; 
went  on  board  a  small  steamer,  E.  L.  Hunt,  and  proceeded 
up  the  river.     Arrived  at  Castillo  Rapids  at  three  a.  m. 
Got    breakfast   at   the   National   Hotel.     Very   poor   far(^ 


338  THURSTON  COUNTY 

From  there  walked  about  half  a  mile  and  went  on  board 
another  small  steamer  and  proceeded  np  the  river  twelve 
miles  farther,  then  exchanged  for  the  lake  boat,  the  San 
Carlos,  a  new  and  very  comfortable  boat.  Dropped  anchor 
at  Virgin  Bay  and  commenced  landing  passengers.  We 
went  to  the  National  Hotel  and  got  some  supper,  which 
our  Indians  wouldn't  eat,  and  then  had  to  pay  $12.50  for 
one  dirty  little  room,  full  of  spiders  and  other  insects  too 
numerous  to  mention — tried  to  clean  it  out  a  little — 
killed  about  twenty  tarantulas  and  made  up  some  beds  on 
the  floor  as  best  we  could. 

October  1 — Still  at  the  hotel  and  likely  to  be  here  for  some 
time,  as  the  steamer  from  San  Francisco  has  not  got  into 
San  Juan  yet.  We  had  to  pay  $1.00  per  meal,  which 
takes  off  the  cash  quite  fast,  but  today  have  got  tickets 
from  the  company  for  the  whole  time  Ave  may  be  detained 
here.  Very  poor  fare ;  everything  filthy  so  cannot  eat  and 
am  obliged  to  go  hungry. 

October  2 — Babe  six  months  old  today  and  has  two  teeth. 
Fare  rather  better  today.  The  men  are  amusing  them- 
selves outside,  getting  the  natives  to  run  races. 

October  3 — Very  warm.  At  noon  heard  the  joyful  news  the 
Cortez  had  arrived  at  San  Juan.  Some  of  the  passengers 
are  coming  in  now.  Presume  we  will  start  tomorrow.  I 
fear  the  dear  little  babe  has  the  whooping  cough. 

October  4 — A  great  many  of  our  passengers  left  this  morning 
to  cross  over  to  San  Juan,  and  a  great  many  left  behind 
yet.  There  are  not  carriages  nor  mules  enough  to  take 
them  across.  One  wagon  came  back  and  thirteen  women 
and  children  got  in,  but  had  not  got  out  of  sight  of  the 
house  before  we  were  told  we  must  get  out  and  walk,  as 
the  mules  were  so  tired  they  could  scarcely  drag  the 
wagon.  Most  all  got  out  and  walked  but  myself.  I  walked 
with  the  babe  over  very  bad  places  and  down  hill,  but 
when  I  thought  there  was  no  danger  I  would  sit  in  the 
wagon  with  the  child.  It  was  so  much  easier  for  the  baby. 
Sometimes  it  rained  and  I  had  to  walk  with  the  baby 
wrapped  in  heavy  shawls  to  protect  it  from  the  rain,  and 
a  heavy  umbrella  besides.  I  thought  the  saying  a  true 
one  that  we  don't  know  how  much  we  can  endure  until 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  339 

we  are  tried.  We  travelled  till  long  after  dark  and  I 
thought  we  would  have  to  stay  out  of  doors  all  night,  when 
one  gentleman  came  back  with  three  mules  and  Emma  and 
another  young  lady  got  on  and  rode  off  for  the  half-w^ay 
house  some  two  or  three  miles  distant.  In  about  another 
half  an  hour  Greshom  and  another  man  came  back  to  see 
what  had  become  of  us  and  found  us  in  the  middle  of  the 
road,  the  mules  determined  not  to  go  another  step.  The 
question  was,  what  was  to  be  done?  One  thing  was  cer- 
tain, we  must  have  some  food  for  the  child  and  shelter.  I 
got  on  Gershom's  mule  and  he  took  the  child  in  his  arms 
and  we  started  off  for  the  half-way  house.  Sometimes  I 
walked  and  he  rode  and  carried  the  carpet  bag.  "We  walked 
this  way  until  we  came  to  the  house  at  10  o'clock,  covered 
with  mud,  and  so  dark  we  could  scarcely  see  the  road. 
Were  very  glad  to  find  shelter.  The  dear  little  one  never 
cried  once  all  that  long  afternoon  and  hard  journey.  First 
thing  was  to  get  something  warm  for  her  and  then  for 
ourselves. 

October  5 — Fine  morn.  All  rose  in  good  spirits  and  had  a  good 
breakfast  and  clean  dishes  to  eat  from,  a  luxury  we  had 
not  enjoyed  for  a  long  time  before.  Orange,  lemon  and 
tamarind  trees  looked  fine  in  a  cultivated  state.  The 
wagon  just  arrived  that  I  left  the  night  before.  All  that 
were  left  w^ere  obliged  to  spend  the  night  in  the  wagon. 
They  all  looked  like  the  last  roses  of  summer.  Brought  in 
some  fresh  mules  and  we  are  commencing  our  journey 
again.  But  fresh  as  our  mules  might  have  been  we  are  all 
obliged  to  walk  over  two-thirds  of  the  way  into  San  Juan. 
We  went  to  the  Pacific  House.  Babe  seems  quite  sick  today. 
Her  upper  gums  are  swollen  very  badly  and  makes  her 
head  very  hot.  This  afternoon  I  thought  she  was  going 
into  a  fit.    It  frightened  me  very  badly.  Called  a  physician. 

October  6 — Babe  has  the  whooping  cough  sure  enough.  We 
all  feel  about  tired  out.  The  cholera  is  on  board  the 
steamer  and  we  do  not  feel  in  any  hurry  to  go  on  board. 
Four  died  before  we  came  here  and  two  today,  and  it  is 
reported  many  are  sick.  Things  do  not  look  very  favor- 
able for  us.  All  we  can  do  is  put  our  trust  in  God.  iMany 
would   stay  here    until    the    next    steamer,    wen?    things 


340  THURSTON  COUNTY 

pleasant,  but  the  place  is  full  of  AYalker's  fillibustering 
party  and  it  is  hard  to  get  enough  to  eat.  The  Cortez  is 
a  very  small  boat  and  I  cannot  think  where  they  can 
stow  so  many  people.  All^the  beds  we  have  had  to  sleep 
on  since  we  left  the  Northern  Light  is  a  narrow  cot,  with- 
out any  pillow  or  clothing  except  one  dirty  sheet  spread 
over.  Just  think,  one  dollar  per  night  for  cot  and  sheet, 
and  fifty  cents  for  a  hammock.  One  of  Walker's  men 
was  shot  on  the  beach  this  morning  for  stealing  cattle. 

October  7 — Two  more  deaths  on  board  last  night.  We  saw  a 
man  and  his  wife  come  on  shore  this  morning  to  bury  their 
child.  They  dug  a  hole  in  the  beach  and  laid  the  child  in 
and  covered  it  over.  About  tea  time  a  gun  was  fired  from 
the  Cortez  as  a  signal  for  us  to  go  on  board.  Found  things 
very  black  and  dirty. 

October  8 — Proceeded  to  sea  at  2  p.  m.  Very  much  crowded, 
very  poor  fare  and  a  slow  boat.  Got  our  baggage  today 
and  arranged  our  room  quite  comfortabh'. 

October  9 — Very  warm.  One  of  the  butchers  was  kicked  over- 
board by  an  ox.  Stopped  steamer  and  got  him  safely  again. 
This  evening  one  of  the  boats  got  loose  and  had  io  stop 
again  to  pick  it  up.  Emma  seasick.  Baby  trttublesome 
and  sick.     If  I  had  time  would  be  about  sick  myself. 

October  10 — Baby  growing  very  sick  and  the  weather  exceed- 
ingly hot.  Don't  make  much  headway.  Crossing  the  Gulf 
of  Tehauntepec,  which  makes  it  very  rough  and  most  all 
seasick. 

October  11. — Warmest  weather  we  have  had.  One  little  baby 
died  this  morning  and  I  saw  it  thrown  overboar».l  without 
any  ceremony  at  all.  It  makes  me  feel  very  bad.  for  I  am 
afraid  mine  will  soon  have  to  follow.  She  seems  very 
low.  The  doctor  says  the  only  chance  for  her  is  a  good 
breast  of  milk.  I  find  one  lady  on  board  kind  enough  to 
do  it — Mrs.  Irvine.  She  has  nursed  her  twice  this  evening. 
Poor  little  thing,  she  seems  so  hungry  for  it. 

October  12 — A  little  more  air  today.  Babe  seems  much  brighter 
and  has  excellent  appetite.  At  2  p.  m.  went  into  Acapulco 
for  provisions  and  water.  It  is  a  very  pretty  looking 
place.     Would  like  to  go  ashore  if  I  could.     Babe  does 


PIONEER   REMINISCENCES  341 

not  seem  so  well  this  eve.     Cannot  nurse  well.     ]Mouth  is 
growing  sore  very  fast. 

October  13 — Babe  very  low.  I  don't  think  she  can  possibly  live 
through  the  day.  We  have, done  everything  mortals  can 
do  for  her.  The  doctor  comes  to  see  her  every  half  hour 
and  all  the  officers  are  exceedingly  kind.  The  engineer 
has  offered  me  the  use  of  his  room  on  the  upper  deck 
where  we  can  have  better  air  and  be  more  by  ourselves. 
At  five  o'clock  babe  seemed  to  see  the  spirit  of  her  angel 
mother  awaiting  to  receive  her.  She  sweetly  smiled,  the 
most  Heavenly  smile  that  mortal  ever  put  on,  and  then 
her  Spirit  fled  to  Him  that  gave  it.  She  has  gone  to  her 
own  dear  mother  and  her  Maker.  IMay  the  Lord's  will  be 
done  is  my  prayer.  I\Irs.  Irvine  dressed  our  little  pet  for 
the  burial  and  a  sweeter  corpse  never  was  seen.  The 
dear  little  hand,  so  beautiful  in  life,  is  beautiful  still,  and 
that  sweet  smile  lingers  about  the  lovely  face.  At  7 
o'clock  she  was  taken  on  deck  and  Mr.  Smith,  the  Purser, 
read  the  funeral  service.  The  Captain,  himself,  held  the 
lifeless  form  and  consigned  it  to  the  deep.  It  is  the  first 
ceremony  that  has  been  said  over  anyone  on  board  this 
ship  and  I  feel  truly  thankful  for  the  respect  shown  our 
feelings.  I  know  no  difference  in  my  feelings  than  if  I 
had  given  life  to  the  child. 

October  14. — Very  warm.  The  fourth  Sunday  since  we  left 
New  York,  One  man  buried  this  morning.  I  am  very 
lonely  and  cannot  tell  what  to  do  with  myself. 

October  18 — Fine  day.    One  woman  died,  a  steerage  passenger, 

October  18 — Spoke  a  whale  ship  today  and  laid  by  three  hours 
to  get  some  water  and  provisions  as  we  were  very  short. 
One  man  died  in  the  steerage.  The  poor  wife  is  nearly 
crazy.  She  has  lost  two  children  and  her  husband  on  this 
trip. 

October  18 — Quite  cool.  Young  girl — steerage  passenger — died 
in  the  night. 

October  19 — Weather  very  cold, 

October  20 — Hope  to  get  in  tomorrow  for  we  are  very  short  of 
everything — have  to  wash  in  salt  water. 

October  21 — This  Sunday  morning  in  sight  of  the  entrance  to 


342  THURSTON  COUNTY 

San  Francisco  Harbor.     All  on  board  seemed  so  glad  to 

get  in. 

When  my  mother  arrived  in  San  Francisco  in  October, 
1S55,  she  found  letters  from  her  hnsband,  requesting  her  to 
remain  there  until  the  Indian  war  was  over.  In  1856  the  do- 
mestic and  social  life  of  the  pioneer  settlement  was  resumed 
and  she  worked  with  unflagging  zeal  for  state  and  school  and 
church,  wherever  Avoman's  aid  was  needed,  that  the  coming- 
generation  might  find  a  foundation  worthy  of  the  superstruc- 
ture which  she  firmly  believed  they  v>^ould  erect.  Her  faith, 
pride  and  interest  in  the  State  of  Washington,  and  all  that 
pertained  to  its  welfare  and  advancement,  remained  with  her 
to  the  closing  moments  of  life. 

My  father  took  charge  of  the  Kendall  Company's  afiPairs, 
Avhich  were  so  extensive  and  varied,  that  he  was  able  to  em- 
ploy many  who  arrived  with  their  fortunes  sadly  depleted, 
and,  for  a  span  of  years,  this  western  part  of  the  state  was 
largely  peopled  by  settlers  Avho  to  the  present  day  take  pleas- 
ure in  reminding  members  of  the  family  that  "Your  father 
gave  me  my  first  work."  Mr.  Percival  afterAvards  bought 
the  property  on  the  corner  of  Main  and  Second  streets  from 
the  Kendall  Companj^,  where  he  carried  on  business  until  1876, 
when  the  partnership  of  T.  N.  Ford  &  Company  was  formed. 
Prior  to  entering  the  mercantile  business  he  built  and  operated 
a  saAv  mill,  which  was  located  at  the  mouth  of  Percival  Creek. 
He  also  built  the  dock  for  the  accommodation  of  the  first 
steamers  running  to  Olympia. 

In  the  early  years  of  business  life,  I  am  confident  that  he 
never  failed  to  extend  a  helping  hand  to  his  less  fortunate 
fellow  man.  A  man  of  quiet  tastes,  loyal  to  his  state,  town, 
church  and  lodge,  ever  foremost  in  any  movement  for  the  de- 
velopment and  advancement  of  the  state,  the  future  of  which 
he  saw  with  the  eyes  of  faith,  desiring  no  political  preferment, 
he  filled  positions  of  trust,  was  custodian  of  moneys  and  valu- 
ables, and  in  the  large  warehouse,  corner  of  Second  and  Colum- 
bia streets,  built  July,  1857,  now  owned  by  ]\[r.  W.  J.  Foster  and 
IMr.  S.  M.  Percival,  (and  I  will  state  in  passing  that  vessels  lay 
alongside  and  discharged  directly  into  the  Columbia  street 
doors  of  this  warehouse)  he  housed  property  of  the  Territory 
as  Vv'ell  as  of  individuals ;  he  shirked  no  duty,  evaded  no  re- 


PIONEER   REMINISCENCES  343 

spansibility,  was  free  from  prejudice  and  lived  and  died  true 
to  the  religious  and  political  convictions  he  had  espoused  in 
youth.  Notably  among  the  many  services  rendered  to  the 
Territory  by  him  in  those  early  days  was  a  trip  to  California 
to  get  supplies  to  carry  on  the  Indian  war  of  1855  and  56. 
Many  sections  of  the  country'  were  impoverished  at  that  time, 
and  our  military  operations  were  liable  to  failure  for  want 
of  supplies.  Conditions  became  so  grave  that  Governor  Isaac 
I.  Stevens  called  Captain  Percival  to  his  assistance  and  com- 
missioned him  to  go  to  San  Francisco  and  arrange  with  the 
merchants  there  to  furnish  the  Territory  with  the  needed  sup- 
plies and  for  this  purpose  Captain  Percival  was  authorized  to 
charter  vessels  to  bring  the  supplies  to  Puget  Sound,  which 
was  done. 

Soon  after  the  Indian  v^ar,  while  on  Squaxon  Island  over- 
seeing a  crew  of  men,  who  were  cutting  piles  for  the  build- 
ing of  the  sea-wall  of  San  Francisco,  my  father  was  struck  by 
the  top  of  a  tree,  which  was  broken  off  by  the  descent  of  the 
tree  that  had  just  been  felled ;  he  was  bruised  and  scratched 
and  his  leg  was  broken.  Late  in  the  afternoon  of  the  next 
day  m}^  mother  was  startled  by  a  roll  of  blankets  being  hurled 
into  the  middle  of  the  room,  and  saw  an  Indian  standing  in 
the  open  doorway.  Recognizing  the  blankets,  she  asked, 
"Where  is  the  Captain?"  The  Indian  drew  up  his  leg  and 
passed  his  finger  across  it ;  my  mother  rushed  to  the  door  in 
time  to  receive  Mr.  J.  R.  and  John  Wood  carrying  my  father 
on  a  blanket ;  these  neighbors  were  engaged  in  shingling  the 
roof  of  the  brewery  which  for  many  years  stood  on  the  corner 
of  Fifth  and  Columbia  streets,  and  from  that  height  they 
could  look  down  into  the  canoe  as  it  was  drawn  up  on  the 
beach  and  discover  the  form  of  a  man  lying  in  it.  He  had 
been  brought  home  by  two  Indians  who  had  paddled  the  en- 
tire waj^  without  taking  rest. 

This  was  the  best  that  could  have  been  done,  for  the  only 
way  of  getting  from  place  to  place  was  by  canoe  or  rowboat. 
My  father's  foot  was  turned  around,  and  the  limb  and  foot 
so  badly  swollen  that  the  toes  were  not  visible,  five  indenta- 
tions marking  the  place  where  they  should  be.  My  mother  and 
the  friends  used  their  best  judgment  in  setting  the  limb,  and 
some  one,   (I  regret  that  the  name  has  escaped  me),  went  on 


344  THURSTON  COUNTY 

horseback  to  the  military  post  at  Steilaeoom,  to  ask  aid  of  the 
surgeon.  Army  regulations  prevented  him  from  leaving  the 
post  although  he  could,  and  did,  attend  anyone  who  could 
come  to  him;  he  gave  the  messenger  such  advice  and  direc- 
tions as  it  was  possible  for  him  to  do.  The  Rev.  Mr.  Close 
had  brought  from  his  eastern  home  a  quart  bottle  of  home- 
made hartshorn  liniment,  which  he  hastened  to  bring  to  my 
mother,  this  and  embrocations  of  salt  and  -water,  were  used  to 
reduce  the  swelling  and  my  father  made  a  quick  recovery — 
he  was  about  on  crutches  in  three  weeks'  time.  His  limb  was 
perfectly  united,  he  could  leap,  run  and  dance  as  well  as  ever 
and  his  rapid  Avalk  and  active  movements  were  not  altered  in 
the  least.  My  father's  fine  constitution,  good  habits  of  life, 
heroic  courage,  the  wholesome  living  in  the  open  air  con- 
tributed to  his  restoration. 

This  story  is  not  given  as  an  isolated  case,  but  as  an 
example  of  what  splendid  heights  the  pioneer  woman  rose  to, 
when  occasion  demanded  it.  I  could  cite  instances  where 
small  women  far  removed  from  aid  dragged  and  lifted  heavy 
men,  who  had  received  injuries,  to  a  place  of  safety,  and  cared 
for  their  wounds  alone.  To  the  woman  of  today,  surrounded 
by  antiseptics,  and  the  wonderful  appliances  of  modern  sur- 
gery, relieved  from  the  suspense  of  watching  for  "proud  flesh" 
to  appear  in  the  wound,  with  physicians  and  trained  nurses 
ready  to  respond  to  a  call,  this  experience,  which  my  mother 
passed  through,  will  appeal  (it  has  seemed  to  me)  more  than 
any  other  I  can  give. 

In  March  my  mother,  with  my  brothers  S.  M.  and  J.  C. 
and  myself,  visited  the  relatives  in  Massachusetts.  We  went 
and  returned  by  way  of  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  from  San 
Francisco,  having  reached  that  city  by  sailing  vessel,  and  the 
memory  of  that  trip  is  a  joy  to  me  still.  The  steamers  were 
])alatial,  for  the  times,  (we  were  in« advance  of  the  railroad) 
the  service  above  criticism ;  twice  a  week  concerts  were  given 
on  deck  by  the  dining  saloon  waiters  (who  were  colored  men) 
imports  and  entertaining  features  were  arranged  by  the  ship's 
officers,  for  no  one  retired  until  midnight,  on  account  of  the 
heat.  I  was  in  my  twelfth  year,  but  a  pioneer  child  was  much 
older  in  the  capacity  of  receiving  impressions  and  appreciat- 
ing opportunities,  than   a   child   of  the  same   age  today,   and 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  345 

the  matchless  beauty  of  the  phc-phoreseent  ocean,  the  South- 
ern constellations,  the  gracefulness  of  the  natives  on  the  Isth- 
mus, the  water  sports  and  diving  of  the  natives  for  coins  at 
Manzanillo,  where  we  made  a  stop,  have  been  a  vivid  life-time 
pleasure  and  were  as  thoroughly  enjoyed  and  appreciated  as 
they  could  be  today.  My  father  joined  us  in  the  Summer 
(leaving  his  large  business  in  the  hands  of  his  confidential 
young  bookkeeper,  Mr.  A,  A.  Phillips),  and  we  all  returned  in 
November,  accompanied  by  three  sisters,  the  Misses  Cushman. 
"We  children  were  made  happy  by  the  gift  of  a  fine  piano, 
which  father  had  purchased  in  Boston,  and  which  had  to  be 
shipped  "around  the  Horn." 

Xo  piano  ever  contributed  more  to  the  pleasure  of  the 
family  and  the  neighborly  children  than  that  one.  The  first 
brass  band,  Mr.  S.  C.  Woodruff,  leader,  organized  and  prac- 
ticed three  times  a  M^eek  in  the  kitchen  of  our  home,  after  the 
Chinese  servant  had  finished  his  after-dinner  work  and  joined 
his  brethren  at  the  "Wash  House,"  which  was  the  Chinatown 
of  that  day.  The  boys  had  received  instructions  on  their 
various  "horns"  from  Dr.  Eggers,  a  German  scholar  and 
musician,  a  member  of  the  House  of  Hanover,  who  lived  alone 
in  a  small  house,  and  cultivated  the  entire  block  on  which  the 
Y.  M.  C.  A.  building  now  stands.  He  had  a  beautiful  orchard 
and  raised  small  fruits. 

My  youngest  brother,  Horace,  born  September,  1870. 
would  be  put  to  bed,  in  an  adjoining  room  and  sleep  calmly 
Through  the  evening's  practice. 

^ly  brother,  John,  gave  me  instruction  on  an  alto  horn,  and 
we  formed  an  "orchestra"  with  S.  C.  AVoodruff  Eb  cornet, 
J.  C.  Percival  Bb  cornet,  myself  Bb  alto,  S.  JM.  Pericval, 
tuba  and  Stella  Galliher,  my  girl  friend,  who  possessed  extra- 
ordinary musical  talent,  at  the  piano.  We  worked  indefatigably, 
were  very  ambitious,  and  rendered  selections  from  "Faust" 
and  from  operas  to  an  appreciative  audience  made  up  of 
mother  and  baby,  and  Avhatever  girls  and  boys  happened  to 
come  in,  among  this  number  ]\Ir.  Samual  L.  Crawford  of  Seattle 
was  usually  to  l)e  found.  The  concerts  began  at  an  early  hour 
and  the  masterpieces  Avere  reserved  until  the  "audience"  had 
put  the  bal)y  to  ])ed.  No  valuable  time  was  lost,  however,  for 
it    was   the    invai-iable    custom    to   <')n])li)y   tli(>    iiitci-missiou    in 


346  THURSTON  COUNTY 

refreshing'  ourselves  from  the  pantry.  On  other  evenings 
we  had  "candy  puUings, "  making  molasses  candy  or  white 
taffy,  the  boys  gave  minstrel  performances,  and  we  frequently 
arranged  tableaux  and  charades,  one  of  the  favorite  tableaux 
being  the  "Presentation  of  the  Jewels  from  Rebecca  to 
Rowena,"  and  always  concluding  v/ith  some  girl  imperson- 
ating the  ' '  Goddess  of  Liberty. ' '  In  this  tableaux  Ada  Wood- 
ruff, a  clever  actress,  was  especially  fine.  I  think  we  would 
have  considered  ourselves  disloyal  if  we  had  omitted  that  one. 
Either  Miss  Galliher  or  my  brother,  John,  furnished  appro- 
priate music  on  all  occasions.  Whatever  had  been  used  was 
put  away  when  Ave  finished.  There  was  no  confusion  or  "upset 
house"  the  next  morning.  Something  of  this  sort  was  carried 
on  in  any  home  where  there  were  children,  perhaps  oftener 
in  our  own  on  account  of  the  piano,  although  ours  was  not 
the  first  one  in  town. 

Our  mothers,  in  addition  to  making  all  of  our  clothes, 
(ready-made  clothing  was  not  dreamed  of  then,  and  boys 
wore  daintily  made  clothes  as  well  as  girls;  my  brother's 
"best"  shirts  were  made  with  rows  of  hand-made  fagoting 
between  each  tuck)  lent  a  willing  hand  in  the  fashioning  of 
costumes,  boating  suits,  etc.,  but  we  were  expected  to  carrA 
out  our  plans  for  amusement  ourselves,  and  we  were  a  happy, 
contented  group,  working  with  painstaking  diligence,  out 
of  school  hours,  and  when  the  "chores"  were  attended  to^ 
perfecting  our  plans,  for  the  standard  was  high,  and  no  slip- 
shod work  was  recognized. 

Almost  every  family  employed  a  Chinaman,  three  inviting 
substantial  meals  were  well  served  daily,  the  cake  and  cookie 
boxes,  the  doughnut  jar,  were  never  allowed  to  bcome  empty, 
that  these  staples  might  always  be  at  hand  to  "pass  around" 
in  the  evening,  or  to  assist  a  neighbor  in  case  of  need.  We  did 
not  lack  for  delicacies,  or  "frilly"  things  upon  occasion,  for 
all  the  Avomen  of  that  day  were  able  to  achieve  wonderful 
results  in  cookery  that  would  grace  the  most  elaborate  func- 
tion today.  This,  I  think,  explains  the  leisure  the  women  of 
that  day  enjoyed,  they  did  not  allow  themselves  to  "get 
behind.'"' 

During  the  summer  the  evenings  were  spent  on  the  water, 
AVords  fail  me  to  describe  the  beauty  of  this  bay,  as  I  know  it, 


PIONEER  REMINISCENCES  347 

entirely  free  from  piles  or  obstrnetion,  spanned  by  the  bridge 
from  Fonrtli  Street  to  West  Olympia,  with  a  pebbly  beaeh 
wherever  one  might  ehoose  to  land ;  and  it  was  an  enrapturing 
sight  on  a  summer's  evening,  dotted  with  boats  from  the 
landing  to  the  falls  at  Tumwater,  with  sailboats  in  the  distance 
with  one  of  our  gorgeous  sunsets  easting  a  glow  over  the  water, 
and  the  sound  of  music  greeting  the  ear.  The  boat  house  and 
float  was  located  at  the  west  end  of  First  Street  and  owned 
by  my  uncle,  Mr.  J.  H.  Cleale.  There  were  boats  of  all  sizes 
from  ver.y  large  sailboats  with  a  seating  capacity  of  about 
twenty-five,  to  two  of  the  daintiest  racing  shells,  thirty  feet 
in  length  I  have  ever  seen.  The  boats  were  the  Whitehall 
pattern,  built  by  my  uncle,  and  most  beautifully  kept.  He 
equipped  a  small  scow  with  music  racks,  lighted  it  with  torches, 
for  the  use  of  the  band.  Two  boats  were  reserved,  one  for 
a  girls  boat  club  (Annie  Stevens,  Jessie  Lowe,  Belle  Evans, 
Fanny  Steele,  Lizzie  Ferry),  and  one  for  boys  (James  Ferry, 
S.  M.  Percival,  S.  C.  Woodruff,  Frank  Treen.  J.  C.  Percival). 
Immediately  after  dinner  young  and  old  strolled  down  to  the 
landing  and  embarked.  Many  families  owned  a  boat  and  it 
was  the  custom  for  the  entire  family  to  go  out  for  a  ''row  on 
the  bay";  the  rowing  was  often  drifting,  the  boats  keeping 
near  each  other,  while  Ave  sang,  or  some  one  recited,  as  the 
spirit  moved  us,  for  we  sang  whenever  we  got  together,  on 
the  water,  aronnd  a  camp  fire,  or  in  a  home.  There  was  no 
"younger  set",  we  enjoyed  our  elders  and  they  enjoyed  us. 
We  felt  no  restraint  in  their  presence  and  were  all  happy 
together.  So  united  were  we  that  it  was  cpiite  the  usual  cus- 
tom for  a  youth  of  eighteen  or  twenty  years  to  follow  men 
like  Governor  Ferry  or  Elwood  Evans  in  contributing  to  the 
pleasure  of  the  evening,  and  he  did  it  (if  called  upon)  without 
diffidence  or  hesitation,  merely  a  conscientious  desire  to  "do 
his  part."  Illustrative  of  the  capability  of  the  young  "to  carry 
the  thing  through,"  for  some  reason,  one  year  there  were  no 
preparations  made  for  the  celebration  of  the  Fourth  of  July. 
The  Band  boys  set  to  work,  raised  the  money,  almost  $1000, 
and  the  result  was  a  day's  program,  commencing  at  9  a.  m. 
which  "went  off"  without  a  hitch  or  any  delay,  and  which 
entertained  and  amused  the  citizens  (iF  tlu'  town  and  all  tlic 
surrounding   country.      In    the    "C^ilaMinnii)ian    Pai'adc,"    .Mr. 


348  THURSTON  COUNTY 

Woodruff  as  the  "Goddess  of  Liberty"  on  a  pretentious  float, 
was  resplendent  in  a  blonde  wig  made  from  large  hawser 
rope;  the  other  details  of  his  costume  were  as  original  as  the 
wig.  (No  one  was  improvident,  costumes  and  trappings  were 
always  carefully  "put  away  for  the  next  time.") 

Charles  B.  Hopkins,  grandson  of  the  late  Col.  E.  D.  Baker, 
was  (if  I  mistake  not)  Marshall  of  the  Day.  The  usual  exer- 
cises took  place  on  the  Public  Square,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Utter, 
Chaplain.  Every  other  position  throughout  the  day  was  filled 
by  boys,  the  eldest  of  whom  could  not  have  been  over  eighteen 
years  of  age.  S.  C.  Percival  read  the  "Declaration"  and  was 
coached  in  his  rendition  by  the  Hon.  Elwood  Evans.  S.  C. 
AVoodrutf,  a  humorist  of  no  mean  order,  was  Orator  of  the  Day. 
He  advanced  to  the  Speaker's  stand,  with  an  armful  of 
shingles,  upon  which  his  "oration"  Avas  written.  As  he 
Avarmed  to  his  subject  he  Avould  absent-mindedly  (?)  bring 
a  shingle  down  npon  the  table,  Avith  such  emphasis,  that  it 
Avas  splintered  and  Avhen  he  concluded,  he  stood  ankle-deep 
in  kindling  Avood ;  the  expression  of  astonishment  and  dismay 
Avhich  overspread  his  face  Avhenever  this  happened  was  worthy 
of  the  "Inimitable  Woodruff",  as  he  was  called  in  after 
years.  Lest  some  captious  person  might  imagine  that  he  had 
been  disrespectful  to  the  great  and  glorious  day,  AA'hen  the 
laughter  and  applause  had  died  aAvay,  ]\Ir.  Woodruff  drcAv  a 
neat  manuscript  from  his  pocket,  and,  AAath  great  dignity, 
deli\"ered  a  short  but  Avell  Avritten  address.  (In  late  years 
Mr.  Woodruff  has  found  a  field  for  his  talent  as  leader  and 
organizer  and  has  succeeded  in  training  and  developing  the 
poor  deficient  little  ones,  Avhom  he  has  in  his  care,  as  no  one 
else  has  been  able  to  do.  For  several  years  programs  have 
been  received  of  the  Christmas  Aveek  Cantatas  and  plays 
— usually  three  days — in  AA'hich  the  children  at  the  School  for 
Defective  Youth,  of  AA^hich  Mr.  Woodruff  is  Superintendent, 
have  taken  part).  A  ''Glee  Club"  of  boys  assisted,  the  water 
sports  and  boat  races  Avere  A^ery  interesting,  performed  as  they 
AA'ere  by  boys  AAdio  had  spent  a  large  portion  of  their  lives 
in  and  on  Budd's  Inlet.  I  do  not  Avish  to  give  the  impression 
that  our  elders  had  no  festivities  except  those  they  shared  Avith 
the  young.  The  "Merry  Bachelors"  Club  was  in  existence 
tor   several   years,    and   their   Avinter    club    dances    Avere   \ery 


PfOXEER   REMINISCENCES  349 

cnjoyaljle.  ehnmiing  evening  parties  were  given  in  private 
homes,  delightful  evening  receptions  were  given  by  Colonel 
and  Mrs.  Koss,  Superintendent  of  Indian  Affairs,  and  at  New 
Year's  and  other  appropriate  days  it  was  the  custom  to  give 
H  large  ball. 

S.  M.  Pereival  (also  his  brother.  John),  having  attended 
the  California  Military  Academy,  in  Oakland,  Cal.,  and  knov\-- 
ing  the  salutary  effect  of  military  training,  organized  July  IS. 
1884,  the  Washington  Cadets,  a  company  of  boys  who  were 
not  old  enough  to  join  the  Territorial  Militia,  and  the  upper 
floor  of  the  old  warehouse,  previously  mentioned,  was  used 
as  an  Armory  and  drill  room.  A  press  notice  says,  "To  be 
a  successful  leader  and  instructor  of  boys  is  a  natural  talent 
v,-hich  is  given  to  very  few,  and  recognizing  this  fact,  and  the 
importance  of  the  service  done  the  boys  of  the  city  by  Captain 
Pereival.  certain  of  his  friends  conceived  the  idea  of  present- 
ing him  some  testimonial  of  their  appreciation  of  his  efforts." 
On  the  afternoon  of  September  24,  1885:  "The  Capitol  Guard, 
Capt.  J.  C.  Ten  Eyck,  escorted  the  Washington  Cadets  to  the 
Public  Scjuare,  where  the  Olympia  Cornet  Band  and  a  large 
audience  were  in  waiting.  Gov.  Watson  C.  Squire,  who  had 
made  a  special  trip  from  Seattle  to  be  present,  attended  by 
Hon.  T.  ]M.  Reed  and  Major  J.  R.  Hayden,  approached  the 
line,  and  with  fitting  remarks  presented  Captain  Pereival, 
on  behalf  of  the  friends  of  the  Company,  with  a  beautiful 
sword    and   belt." 

The  proficiency  of  the  Cadets  was  such  that  the  Governor 
said  that  he  thought  the  Washington  Cadets  to  be  the  l)est 
drilled  company  in  the  Territory.  The  same  press  notice  says 
further  "on  all  occasions  when  a  public  escort  has  been  re- 
(juired,  the  Washington  Cadets  have  been  ready  and  willing 
to  turn  out,  and  have  added  very  much  to  the  public  parades 
Avhich  have  taken  place  this  summer.  Especially  did  the 
Cadets  show  to  advantage  on  the  occasion  of  the  Territorial 
IMuster  in  this  city,  when  they  spent  two  days  in  Camp  with 
the  ^lilitia,  and  by  their  courteous  demeanor  and  soldierly 
bearing,  they  won  the  respect  of  the  whole  Camp." 

On  another  occasion  a  Cadets  Ball  was  given  and  the 
newspaper  of  that  date  records,  "At  this  time  the  Cadets  under 
command  of  Capt.  S.   iM.   Pereival,  First  Lieut.  Fred  Smith, 


350  THURSTON  COUNTY 

Second  Lieut.  Bates  Cavanaug-'.i,  marched  into  the  hall  with 
that  precision  of  movement  which  s;)  marks  their  .drill.  Here- 
upon Miss  Janet  Moore  appeared  upon  the  stage,  and  with 
an  appropriate  address  presented  to  the  Cadets  a  banner, 
which  the  ladies  of  Olympia  had  purchased  for  them.  The 
banner  is  four  by  six,  a  solid  piece  of  blue  silk.  On  each  side 
there  is  painted  in  artistic  style,  the  Coat  of  Arras  of  the 
Territory  with  its  legend  'Al-ki' — after  a  little  while.  There 
is  also  painted  upon  each  side  the  words  'Washington  Cadets'. 
It  is  a  beautiful  banner,  the  finest  of  its  kind  in  the  Territory. 
The  roster  of  the  Company  is  as  follows:  Harry  Cowles,  Geo. 
Libby,  Horace  Percival,  W.  J.  Fo.ster,  Harry  Crosby,  Wood 
Doane,  Nathan  Wolf,  Charles  Leighton,  James  Hayden,  Eltney 
Van  Epps,  Bate-,  Cavanaugh,  R3bt.  Blankenship,  Fred  Smith, 
Frank  Carroll,  Willie  Young,  David  Baker,  Geo.  Doane,  Win- 
lock  Miller,  Arlie  Van  Epps,  Van  Woodard,  Walter  Smith, 
Dave  Williams,  Pendleton  ]\Iiller,  Henry  Kuykendall,  Willie 
Page,  Oscar  Craig,  Geo.  Buchanan,  Frank  IMurphy." 

xVs  I  have  stated,  in  the  early  settlement  of  the  Territory, 
the  only  way  of  traveling  was  by  canoe  or  rowboat  on  the 
water,  and  on  horseback  follovving  the  "blazed"  trail  on  land. 
Later  the  trail  was  widened  to  a  road,  but  even  then  a  winter 
trip  from  Puget  Sound  to  the  Columbia  Eiver  was  often  a 
thrilling  experience.  In  the  summer  and  as  many  of  the  winter 
months  as  possible,  the  conveyance  was  the  picturesque  stage 
coach  of  story  and  theater  renown — but  usually  for  a  longer 
or  shorter  period  in  the  winter  the  road  became  so  nearly 
impassable  that  the  vehicle  known  to  early  settlers  as  a  "dead 
axe"  wagon  was  used.  For  small  parties,  or  when  the  booking 
over-ran  the  seating  capacity  of  the  regular  stage,  an  "extra" 
was  put  on.  This  was  a  miniature  stage  coach  which  accom- 
modated but  six  inside  passengers  and  one  outside  with  the 
driver — and  a  small  "boot"  not  sufficient  for  large  trunks, 
which  either  followed  or  preceded  the  "extra."  An  important 
feature  of  the  luggage  of  those  days  was  the  large,  well  filled 
lunch  baskets,  for  there  was  a  delightful  sense  of  uncertainty 
aljout  reaching  the  regular  stations.  As  no  gTiest  or  member 
of  a  family  ever  set  out  upon  a  journey  without  partaking  of 
a  hot  substantial  breakfast,  served  not  later  than  3:30  o'clock 
;i.  m.,  housekeepers  will  appreciate  what  the  matrons  of  that 


PIONEER    REMINISCENCES  351 

day  dill,  in  a  social  way,  in  "speeding  the  parting  guest." 
The  expenses  of  the  trip  were  from  $20  to  $25 — $15  for  the 
stage  ride  with  meals  and  steamer  ticket  extra. 

In  February,  1871,  a  party  composed  of  Lizzie  P.  Ferry 
(Mrs.  John  Leary),  Belle  T.  Evans  (Mrs.  Samuel  Wilkeson). 
Fanny  0.  Steele'  (Mrs.  E.  G.  O'Brien),  Stella  Galliher  and 
myself,  escorted  by  my  father,  left  Olympia  in  an  ''extra"  at 
4  o'clock— the  regular  hour  for  the  departure  of  the  stage.  ]My 
father  was  enroute  to  San  Francisco,  and  the  girls,  traveling 
in  his  care,  were  on  their  way  to  enter  the  Easter  term  at 
St.  Helen's  Hall,  which  had  been  founded  in  1869  at  Port- 
land, Ore.  The  parents  of  these  girls  had  welcomed  the  oppor- 
tunity of  giving  such  superior  educational  advantages  to  their 
daughters,  and  I  wish  it  were  in  my  power  to  properly  express 
what  the  establishment  of  St.  Helen's  Hall  at  that  early  day, 
meant  to  the  girls  of  the  entire  Northw^est.  That  I  could  pay 
a  proper  tribute  to  the  character  of  Mary  B.  Rodney,  for 
twenty  years  principal  of  the  school.  A  woman  descended 
from  a  titled  family  in  England,  and  from  Caesar  Rodney, 
signer  of  the  "Declaration  of  Independence,"  of  rare  schol- 
astic attainments,  of  cultured  mind  and  lofty  purpose,  she 
left  an  ineffaceable  stamp  upon  a  generation  of  women. 

On  the  first  day  of  our  journey  the  breakfast  and  dinner 
stations  Avere  reached  without  mishap ;  at  the  noon  stopping 
place  we  found  Mr.  R.  G.  O'Brien,  who  w^as  Deputy  Collector 
of  Internal  Revenue.  He  was  making  the  trip  on  horseback 
and  joined  our  party.  About  the  middle  of  the  afternoon,  in 
going  over  a  piece  of  "corduroy"  and  "chuck  holes"  we 
suddenly  came  to  an  abrupt  standstill  with  a  broken  axle. 
By  the  time  a  small  fir  tree  had  been  felled  and  lashed  in  place, 
the  daylight  was  fast  waning,  and  we  were  unable  to  reach 
IMcDonald's,  where  we  had  intended  to  pass  the  night.  We 
vrere  hospitably  cared  for  by  a  Frenchman  named  Bernier. 
The  family  spoke  English  very  imperfectly,  and  doubtless 
were  severely  taxed  to  provide  accommodation  for  a  party  of 
eight  on  short  notice.  !Mr.  O'Brien,  ]\Ir.  Percival  and  the 
driver  were  disposed  of  in  the  attic.  The  Bernier  family  oc- 
cupied the  floor  of  the  living  room,  and  the  "best  room"  where 
the  "Lares  and  Penates"  of  the  household  were  carefully 
kept,  was  given  to  tlic  girls.     The  second  day  on  arriving  at 


'M'2  THURSTON  COUNTY 

Pumphreys'  (Olequa)  Ave  found  Colonel  Pardee,  Chief  Clerk 
to  Colonel  Ross.  He  also  joined  the  party  and  we  embarked 
shortly  after  noon  in  a  small  canoe.  (I  regret  that  I  can  not 
give  the  dimensions,  but  I  have  a  distinct  recollection  that  we 
were  packed  in.)  Eight  persons  with  a  corresponding  number 
of  umbrellas  and  band-bags,  as  the  receptacle  then  used  was 
called,  five  lunch  baskets,  besides  the  Indian  who  sat  at  the 
rear  end  and  guided  the  canoe,  made  up  the  cargo  and  pas- 
senger list  on  the  voyage.  All  sat  ''tailor  fashion"  and  thus 
vro.  "shot  the  rapids"  on  the  Cowlitz  Fiver,  arriving  about 
dusk  at  Freeport,  where  we  made  the  acquaintance  of  Dr.  N. 
Ostrander  and  bis  family.  We  were  lifted  out  of  the  canoe 
so  wet  and  bedraggled,  that  we  must  have  presented  a  forlorn 
^ippearance.  (It  was  never  possible  to  raise  an  umbrella,  as 
it  was  necessary  for  the  Indian  to  keep  his  gaze  constantly 
fixed  on  the  bow  of  the  canoe.)  Never  shall  I  forget  the 
hearty  welcome  given  us,  the  kindly  attention  lavished  on 
us  by  Dr.  Ostrander 's  daughters,  never  will  the  remembrance 
fade  of  the  sense  of  peace  and  satisfaction  produced  by  the 
cheer  and  comfort  of  that  well  ordered  home. 

After  a  refreshing  night's  sleep  we  left  Freeport  about 
noon  on  the  "Wenat",  which  was  the  smallest  and  dirtiest 
sternwheel  steamer  I  have  ever  seen.  At  IMonticello  we  trans- 
ferred to  the  sternwheel  steamer  ''Fanny  Troupe"  reaching 
our  destination,  St.  Helen's  Hall,  at  9  o'clock  on  the  evening 
of  the  third  day  from  home,  where  we  were  greeted  by  our 
townswoman,  ]\Iiss  Lydia  II.  Blackler,  who  was  a  teacher  of 
literature,  languages,  and  higher  mathematics  in  the  school. 
The  return  trip  in  the  latter  part  of  June  was  quite  a  different 
matter,  and  was  made  in  two  days  and  one  night.  The  con- 
dition of  the  road  at  that  season  of  the  year  permitted  staging 
'"over  the  mountains"  as  far  as  ''Huntingtons"  (IMonticello), 
and  the  big  stage  coach  made  the  entire  trip.  The  choice 
seats  were  those  outside  and  above  the  driver's  seat  and  were 
always  the  first  to  be  booked.  The  effect  of  the  light  and 
shade  in  the  "forest  primeval"  produced  by  the  lengthening 
twilight  and  rising  moon  on  those  rides  of  a  summer  evening, 
Avhich  were  extended  to  midnight,  if  the  distance  to  the  next 
balf-Wfiy   house    demanded    it,    made    a    panorama    that    could 


PIONEER    REMINISCENCES  353 

scarcely  fail  to  arouse  a  sense  of  the  artistic,  however  dormant 
it   might   be. 

In  January,  1872,  I  was  stricken  with  illness  and  my 
mother  deemed  it  best  to  come  to  my  bedside.  She  gave  my 
oldest  brother  a  vacation  from  school,  and  entrusted  my  baby 
l)rother  to  his  care.  A  neighbor  kindly  came  each  morning 
to  bathe  and  dress  the  baby,  and  the  care  of  the  child  during 
the  day  devolved  upon  "Sam",  who  was  perfectly  competent 
to  put  him  to  bed.  For  three  and  one-half  weeks,  he  was 
faithful  to  his  trust,  and  my  mother's  confidence  was  not  mis- 
placed. He  taught  the  baby  to  walk  by  the  original  method 
of  lying  flat  on  his  back  with  my  father's  cane  extended  at 
full  length  to  the  end  of  which  my  brother  Horace  clung,  go- 
ing round  and  round  in  a  circle.  His  boy  friends,  with  the 
helpfulness  which  characterized  pioneer  life,  played  in  the 
street  in  front  of  the  sitting-room  windows,  that  he  might 
not  be  entirely  left  out  of  their  sports.  On  her  return  he 
proudly  delivered  his  charge  to  my  mother  without  a  "bump" 
or  a  scratch  to  report. 

Cold  had  set  in,  and  roads  were  nothing  but  frozen  "hum- 
mocks" and  deep  mud  holes  coated  with  ice.  However,  the 
stage  set  out  with  several  passengers.  Mr.  George  Coggan, 
the  U.  S.  mail  contractor,  rode  a  horse  belonging  to  his  wife. 
The  horse  was  a  beautiful  glossy  black  creature,  but  hard 
even  when  the  road  was  favorable.  At  the  breakfast  station 
the  stage  had  to  be  abandoned  and  the  passengers  were  obliged 
to  mount  the  horses.  I\Iy  mother  was  first  placed  on  one  of 
the  stage  horses  enveloped  in  a  blanket  which  was  securely 
pinned  to  protect  her  from  the  bitter  cold.  After  a  time  the 
jarring  caused  by  the  heavy  horse  breaking  the  thin  ice  and 
])lunging  violently  into  the  deep  holes,  became  so  fatiguing 
that  she  was  changed  to  Mrs.  Coggan 's  horse,  which  she  rode 
the  rest  of  the  way.  The  going  was  so  slow  and  laborious  that 
it  was  exceedingly  trying  to  the  nerves  of  one  who  was  con- 
sumed with  anxiety.  When  a  stretch  of  road  was  reached 
which  appeared  to  be  a  little  smoother,  mother,  being  in  the 
lead,  attempted  to  go  a  little  faster.  This  effort  came  to 
naught,  however,  for  Mr.  Coggan  soon  espied  her  and  shouted 


354  THURSTON  COUNTY 

at  the  top  of  his  voice,  "For  God's  sake.  ]Mrs.  Pereival,  do  not 
let  that  horse  trot  on  this  ground,  he  will  kill  you." 

The  night  was  spent  at  ^McDonald's.  Pumphrey's  was 
reached  the  next  day  and  from  there  she  took  a  canoe  to 
Monticello.  From  Monticello  a  steamer  was  taken  to  Port- 
land, and  in  this  way  my  mother  accomplished  what  any 
anxious  mother  would  do  today  in  six  hours.  My  mother 
decided  to  bring  me  back  home  for  a  time  to  recruit  ray 
strength.  "We  left  Portland  on  the  California,  making  month- 
ly or  semi-monthly  trips  to  the  Sound  b}'-  way  of  Victoria,  and 
we  were  detained  for  five  days  "bar  bound"  at  Astoria;  the 
Captain  each  day  running  down  to  the  Columbia  River  bar 
but  owing  to  a  storm  raging  outside,  would  be  unable  to  cross 
out  and  would  be  compelled  to  return  to  Astoria.  During 
these  five  days  my  life-long  friend,  Helen  F.  Parker,  (Mrs. 
Herbert  ^IcMicken),  ministered  to  me  devotedly.  (Captain 
Parker,  with  his  family,  w^as  returning  to  Olympia  after  a 
few  years'  residence  in  Portland).  One  of  the  kindly  duties 
she  imposed  upon  herself  was  to  bring  me  fresh  water  to 
drink  from  a  spring  she  had  found  on  shore.  Not  content 
with  describing  the  beauty  of  the  spring  to  me,  she  one  day 
came  bearing  a  short,  broad  board  with  a  replica  of  the  spring 
made  with  earth,  twigs  and  ferns,  the  spring  represented  by  a 
tiny  tin  cup  she  had  bought  for  the  purpose.  Then,  as  now, 
she  could  find  "Sermons  in  stones;  lessons  in  running  brooks, 
and  good  in  everything." 

These  incidents  are  not  cited  because  they  were  excep- 
tional ones,  but  they  are  what  might  reasonably  be  expected 
to  occur  on  any  winter  trip  to  reach  the  Columbia  River.  Now 
and  then,  alas  I  some  traveller  did  not  reach  his  journey's 
end — an  over-turned  canoe — a  plunge  over  a  precipice — but— 
these  accidents  were  rare. 

The  wonderful  skill  and  dexterity  exercised  by  the  In- 
dians who  guided  and  controlled  the  canoes  in  that  whirling, 
eddying  river,  was  almost  marvelous  in  its  way;  something 
we  shall  not  see  again.  The  almost  human  intelligence  of  the 
stage  horses — the  thrill  and  quick  response  to  the  command 
of  the  driver,  in  a  moment  of  danger — aroused  a  feeling  in 
the  human  heart  akin  to  respect  for  such  noble  animals. 

The  Portland  Oregonian  has  lately  said:  "There  is  not 
much  that  savors  of  romance  in  the  rapid  life  we  now  lead. 


PIONEER    REMINISCENCES  355 

"All  of  the  fine  veneering  of  modern  civilization  has 
failed  to  restore  the  wild  beauty  of  the  original  social  struc- 
ture of  the  State. 

"^Modern  civilization  and  its  attendant  comfort  and 
luxuries  which  came  with  the  railroad,  are  fully  appreciated, 
and  none  of  us,  perhaps,  wish  to  return  to  the  old  days." 

But  we  "old  settlers"  are  fortunate  in  the  possession 
of  experiences  and  memories  which  we  would  not  surrender, 
and  which  cannot  be  wrested  from  us.  A  positive  knowledge 
of  that  era  of  brotherly  love  and  universal  inclination  to 
help  each  other;  and  we  experience  a  shock  and  sense  of  loss 
when  we  hear  of  the  passing  of  those  friends  of  former  days. 


THE  SETTLEMENT  OF  HAWK'S  PRAIRIE 


y\\\  George  H.  Himes,  Secretary  of  the  Oregon  Historical 
Society,  has  contributed  the  following  interesting  reminis- 
cences : 

"The  first  family  to  settle  on  what  is  noAV  eonnnonly 
knoAvn  as  Hawk's  Prairie,  although  erroneously  so,  was  Free- 
man W.  Tyrrell,  who,  in  1851,  came  with  his  wife  and  six 
step  children  to  take  up  a  donation  claim  of  G-IO  acres  oji  llic 
southeastern  portion  of  this  prairie.  The  names  of  the  step 
children  were  Levi,  Jonathan  Davis,  Mary,  Rebecca  Jane  and 
William  T.  Prince.  Two  bo^'s  were  born  to  them  a  few  years 
later — Judson  and  Squire.  The  family  remained  on  this  place 
until  late  in  the  '60s,  wlicn  it  vemnvcd  to  the  Lincoln  Creek 
settlement.  AH  the  family  are  now  dead  except  ^Irs.  Layton 
and  William. 

"The  next  settlers  upon  Txrell's  (Hawk's)  Prairie  Avere  as 
follows:  Elijah  Tyrrell,  in  the  edge  of  the  timber  at  the  ex- 
ti-eme  northern  end  of  the  prairie;  'Mr.  Klady  and  his  son 
William,   on   a    i)lace   west   of  the   Freeman   W.   TyiTell    ])la<'e. 


356  THURSTON  COUNTY 

bordering  tlie  eastern  shore  of  Long  Lake,  a  little  way  south 
of  the  present  Union  Mills;  David  Phillips,  the  grandfather 
of  Mrs.  11.  B.  IIcElroy.  of  Olympia,  northeast  of  the  Klady 
claim ;  Henry  Fowler,  in  the  extreme  western  edge  of  the 
prairie,  which  would  be  just  north  of  Union  Mills — all  taking 
their  claims  late  in  1851  or  in  the  fall  of  1852.  In  the  latter 
part  of  October,  1853,  my  father,  Tyrus  Himes,  bought  the 
improvements  of  Fowler  for  fifty  dollars,  settled  upon  that 
place  November  9th  following,  and  spent  the  last  twenty-five 
years  of  his  life  there,  and  thus  became  the  second  permanent 
settler  upon  that  prairie.  The  original  claim  was  320  acres, 
and  the  larger  portion  of  it  is  now  owned  by  David  Fleetwood. 

"Early  in  November,  1853,  C.  B.  Baker  bought  the  im- 
.provements  on  the  David  Phillips  claim,  and  with  his  family 
of  a  wife  and  three  children — James  E.,  John  W.,  and  Leander 
M. — Stayed  there  until  the  spring  of  1854,  when  he  and  his 
family  removed  to  Grand  i\Iound  Prairie  and  secured  a  claim 
on  Scatter  Creek,  a  short  distance  west  of  Kochester.  The 
surviving  members  of  the  Baker  family — John  W.  and  Leander 
H. — are  now  residents  of  Portland,  Oregon,  the  latter  a  suc- 
cessful teacher  in  the  public  schools. 

"The  third  family  to  settle  on  Tyrell  (Hawk's)  Prairie  was 
that  of  John  AV.  Hawk.  He  came  from  Indiana  to  Oregon 
across  the  plains  in  1852,  first  settling  in  Portland.  His  w^ife 
died  in  December  of  that  year,  leaving  six  children,  all  boys, 
as  folloAvs :  Albert,  Wilson,  William,  Frank,  Samuel  and  IMel- 
vin.  These  children  were  provided  with  homes  among  other 
pioneer  families  until  the  summer  of  1855,  when  Mr.  Hawk 
was  married  to  Mrs.  Sarah  Stephens  Hawks,  whose  husband 
was  drowned  near  Astoria,  February  24,  1854.  Soon  after 
their  marriage  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Haw^ks  removed  to  Olympia,  and 
in  August,  1855,  moved  to  Tyrrell  Prairie,  locating  on  the  next 
claim  east  of  the  Himes  (now  Fleetwood)  place,  and  gathered 
his  children  together. 

"Tyrus  Himes  was  born  at  Troy,  Bradford  County,  Penn- 
sylvania, April  14,  1818,  and  while  living  in  what  w^as  then 
the  frontier,  and  lacking  educational  advantages  was  a  man 
of  marked  intelligence  and  ability  and  was  well  known  among 
his  associates  as  an  exceedingly  well  posted  man  regarding 
current  events,  particularly  respecting  all  phases  of  farm  life. 
He  became  a  warm  friend  of  Owen  Bush  who  told  me  in  later 


TYRUS  HIMES 


MRS.  EMILINE  HIMES 


GEORGE  II.  HIMES 


PIONEER    REMINISCENCES  357 

years  that  whatever  lie  had  accomplished  in  an  agricultural 
line — and  he  has  Avon  several  gold  medals  for  his  exhibits — 
he  owed  in  a  great  measure  to  father's  advise  and  instruc- 
tions. 

"On  ^lay  1,  1843,  Mr.  Himes  was  married  to  Emiline 
Holcombe.  She  was  also  a  native  of  Bradford  County,  Penn- 
slyvania,  born  December  28,  1821,  her  parents  removing 
thither  in  1796  from  Connecticut.  Her  earliest  ancestors  came 
to  Massachusetts  from  Devonshire,  England,  in  1630. 

"In  the  spring  of  1853  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Himes  with  their 
family  of  four  children,  George  H,  Helen  Z.j  Judson  W.  and 
Lestina  Z.,  and  four  other  persons,  Joel  Risdon  and  his  son, 
Henry,  a  youth  of  tw^elve  years,  Charles  R.  Fitch  and  Fred- 
erick Burnett,  and  the  additional  family  of  John  Dodge,  wife 
and  five  children,  Robert  Bruce,  Francis  Marion,  Daniel, 
Samuel  Ives  and  Desdemona,  started  across  the  plains  to 
Oregon.  The  two  families  separated  at  the  immigrant  camp 
ground  on  the  Umatilla  River,  the  Dodge  family  going  to 
Marion  County,  Willamette  Valley,  and  the  Himes  family  and 
the  four  persons  mentioned  went  to  Puget  Sound,  via  Xatche?. 
Pass,  25  miles  north  of  ]\It.  Rainier,  in  company  with  a  number 
of  other  families  and  single  men,  the  total  number  being  170 — 
the  first  direct  immigration  to  the  Puget  Sound  basin.  Late 
in  1853  Robert  Bruce  Dodge  left  the  Willamette  Valley  and 
settled  on  Mima  Prairie ;  his  parents  and  the  remainder  of  the 
family  soon  followed  him  and  settled  in  the  same  locality. 

"In  October.  1854,  Mr.  Himes,  associated  with  Joseph 
Benson  Roberts,  a  well-to-do  logger,  established  the  first  boot 
and  shoe  shop  in  Olympia — the  first  in  the  State  of  Wash- 
ington. During  the  winter  of  1854-55,  William  Wright,  a 
saddle  and  harness-maker,  established  himself  in  Olympia — 
the  first  in  that  line  in  Washington.  Mr.  Himes  followed  boot 
and  shoe-making  until  1866,  when  he  retired  to  his  farm  for 
the  remainder  of  his  life,  his  death  occuri'ing  on  April  22,  1879. 
In  1884  the  widow  sold  the  farm  to  the  ])resent  owner  and 
removed  to  Elma,  Chehalis  County,  aiul  sj)ent  the  remainder 
of  her  life,  her  death  occurring  on  October  29,  1898. 

"George  H.  Himes  was  born  in  Pennsylvania,  ]\Iay  18, 
1844.  Prior  to  crossing  the  plains  IVoiii  Illinois  to  Puget  Sound 
in  1853,  he  went  to  school  fifteen  months.  In  Thurston  Coun- 
t}^  he  went  to  school  three  months  a  year  from  1854  to  1859. 


;',58  THURSTON  COUNTY 

On  June  10,  1861,  he  began  typesetting  on  the  Washington 
Standard,  Olympia,  for  Mr.  John  ^liller  IMurphy,  and  worked 
in  his  office  most  of  the  time  until  ^larch  10,  186-1,  when  he 
went  to  Portland,  the  trip  at  that  time  requiring  three  days. 
On  March  13th,  he  began  setting  type  on  the  Oregonian,  and 
remained  in  that  office  until  June  3,  1865.  A  few  weeks  later 
he  began  working  in  a  job  printing  office,  and  on  October  5, 
1868,  went  into  business  for  himself,  and  carried  on  the  job 
printing  business  until  January  3,  1899,  when  he  was  asked 
by  the  Board  of  Directors  of  the  Oregon  Historical  Society, 
organized  on  December  37,  1898,  to  become  the  assistant,  or 
Field  Secretary.  In  June,  1886,  ]\lr.  Himes  Avas  elected  Secre- 
tary of  the  Oregon  Pioneer  Association,  and  has  held  that 
position  without  interruption  up  to  the  present  time.  The 
acquaintance  thus  gained  has  given  him  a  great  opportunity' 
to  gather  an  unusually  large  fund  of  information  about  the 
early  pioneers  of  the  Pacific  Northwest,  and  this  he  has  sought 
to  improve  to  the  best  of  his  ability.  He  was  married  in 
Salem,  Oregon,  December  24,  1866,  to  Miss  Anna  F.  Kiggs. 
and  eleven  children  were  born  t;)  the  union — nine  daughters 
and  two  sons — and  five  daughters  and  one  son  are  now  living 
in  Portland  and  vicinity,  the  others  having  passed  away. 

"The  second,  third  and  fourth  children  of  ]Mr.  and  ]\Irs. 
Himes,  are  as^  follows :  ^Mrs.  Helen  Z.  Ruddell.  born  in  Stark 
County.  Illinois,  February  6,  18-18,  widow  of  the  late  William 
II.  Euddell,  a  pioneer  of  Thurston  County  in  1852,  and  ,since 
1879  she  has  lived  near  Elma.  Chehalis  County;  Judson  W. 
Himes,  born  in  Stark  County,  Illinois,  ^larch  9,  1850,  learned 
the  baking  business  in  Olympia,  afterwards  took  a  business 
course  in  Portland,  later  on  was  a  cruiser  of  timber  lands  for 
the  Northern  Pacific  Eailway  for  a  number  of  years,  making 
his  home  in  Elma,  later  on  engaged  in  the  real  estate  and  in- 
surance business,  has  been  an  Odd  Fellow  for  many  years,  has 
served  as  Town  and  School  Clerk  of  Elma  for  several  terms 
and  holds  that  position  at  the  present  time;  Mrs.  Lestina  Z. 
Eaton,  born  in  Lafayette.  Stark  County,  Illinois,  November 
26,  1852.  was  married  to  Nathan  Eaton  in  1872.  He  came  across 
the  plains  in  1843,  was  a  volunteer  soldier  in  the  Cayuse  In- 
dian war  of  1847-48;  mined  gold  in  1849  in  California,  settled 
iu  Thurston  County,  tAvelve  miles  southeast  of  Olympia,  built 
a  sawmill  there  in   1853 — the  first  mill   in   Western  Washing- 


PIONEER    REMINISCENCES  359 

ton  away  from  the  Sound — cleared  up  a  large  farm  out  of  a 
■wilderness  said  to  be  the  best  in  the  county  in  its  day.  ren- 
reudered  efficient  service  to  the  Territory  in  the  Yakima  In- 
dian war  of  1855-56,  introduced  the  first  mowing  machines 
in  the  count}-  in  1856,  established  a  photograph  gallery  at  his 
place  in  1862,  sold  his  place  to  ]\Ir.  Collins  in  1882  and  removed 
to  Elma  the  same  year  and  died  in  1883.  He  was  the  father 
of  four  children.  j\Irs.  Eaton  died  at  Potlatch  at  the  home  of 
her  daughter,  Mrs.  George  Simpson,  in  December,  1906." 


PRIEST  POINT  PARK 


There  is  not  a  spot  of  greater  romantic  interest  in  all 
Thurston  County  than  beautiful  Priests'  Point  Park,  wath  its 
\ovely,  W'inding  paths  and  drivew^ay,  its  noble  trees,  the  bab- 
bling spring  of  deliciously  cold  water,  and  never  ending  ebb 
and  flow  of  the  sapphire  waters  of  dear  Puget  Sound,  coming 
and  going  over  the  sands  of  the  bathing  beach.  Chechaeos 
often,  in  admiring  this  playground  of  Olympia,  enquire  how 
the  park  became  possessed  of  such  a  picturesque  name,  so  it 
was  considered  that  a  brief  history  of  Priests'  Point  Park 
might  well  be  included  in  this  volume  of  Pioneer  History. 

In  Jul}^  of  the  year  1847,  before  the  American  settler  had 
arrived  on  Puget  Sound,  or,  at  least,  on  the  section  of  the 
Sound  now  known  as  Thurston  County,  Eev.  Pascal  Ricard, 
with  a  party  of  nine  Oblat  missionaries,  established  St.  Jo- 
seph's IMission,  on  the  east  side  of  Budd's  Inlet,  about  a  mile 
and  a  half  north  of  Edmund  Sylvester's  claim.  At  that  time 
the  Squaxon  Indians  were  living  in  numbers  along  the  shores 
of  the  Sound  below  the  ]\Iission  and,  indeed,  the  point  of  laud 
embraced  in  the  Mission  holdings  w^as  a  general  gathering  place 
for  the  Western  Washington  Indians.  The  woods  were  full  of 
big  game,  unfrightened  by  the  sound  of  the  hunters'  firearms, 
wild  berries  grew  in  profusion  in  the  more  sparsely  forested 


360  THURSTON  COUNTY 

spots,  clams  there  were  for  the  mere  turning  over  of  the  sands 
of  the  beach  at  low  tide,  and  along-  the  shining  length  and 
breadth  of  Puget  Sound  there  was  no  more  prolific  fishing 
waters  than  those  that  washed  the  shores  in  front  of  the 
IMission. 

Here  the  good  Fathers  found  a  waiting  field  of  labor. 
Schools  and  classes  were  organized  among  the  natives,  who 
took  readily  to  the  teachings  of  the  priests.  Land  was  cleared 
for  vegetable  and  flower  beds,  fruit  trees  were  planted,  a 
building  for  a  school  room  and  for  holding  services  was  built 
and  before  long  there  were  a  considerable  number  of  young 
Indian  boys  enrolled  as  students  in  the  classes. 

It  is  a  matter  of  history  that  the  savage  mind  most  readily 
grasps  that  religion  that  is  presented  them  by  symbols  and 
pageantry.  The  black-robed  Fathers,  with  their  kindly  words, 
ready  sympathy  and  helpfulness  won  the  confidence  and  re- 
spect of  the  Indians  to  such  an  extent  that  even  in  later  times, 
when  the  white  settlers  were  trembling  and  afraid  for  their 
lives  from  the  Indian  attacks,  the  priests  of  St.  Josephs'  ]Mis- 
sion  lived  in  security  and  friendliness  Avith  the  natives. 

So  intimate  were  the  relations  betw^een  the  priests  and 
the  Indians  that  the  former  were  frequently  enabled  to  give 
warning  to  the  settlers  of  danger  from  contemplated  raids  of 
the  Indians  in  time  for  them  to  flee  to  the  safety  of  the  stock- 
ade at  Olympia.  Several  of  the  pioneers  of  the  early  50 's  can 
recall  Father  Blanchard,  who  was  at  that  time  at  the  head, 
of  the  Mission,  having  taken  Rev.  Ricard's  place  when  that 
Father  moved  on  to  establish  other  Catholic  ]\Iissions.  Father 
Blanchard  and  his  associates  had  a  school  of  about  forty  young 
Indians,  who  were  taught  the  white  man's  ways,  and  to  be- 
come good  Catholics.  The  classes  were  held  in  the  main 
building,  which  stood  for  many  years  after  the  mission  was 
abandoned,  on  the  ground  now  occupied  for  a  private  garden. 
Dark  and  gloomy  were  the  rooms,  with  windows  high  up  in 
the  walls,  so  high  that  the  light  came  through  but  dimly.  The 
attention  of  the  j^oung  students  were  not  distracted  by  gazing 
out,  and  in  the  event  of  enmity  arising  between  the  priests  and 
the  Indians  there  was  no  opportunity  for  a  bullet  to  find  its 
mark  by  aiming  through  the  window.  The  benches  on  which 
the  students  were  seated  were  the  work  of  their  own  hands, 


LEOPOLD  SCHMIDT 

Whose  Generosity  Has  Done  Much  for    Priest 
Point  Park 


PIONEER    REMINISCENCES  361 

under  the  training  of  the  priests,  and  was  the  start  of  the 
manual  training  classes  or  departments  now  so  common  in  onr 
schools. 

One  pioneer  woman,  who  as  a  young  girl,  lived  on  a  home- 
stead in  the  neighborhood,  recalls  visiting  the  ]\Iission  while 
school  was  in  session  and  seeing  the  dusky  young  students  por- 
ing over  their  lessons.  This  lady  also  tells  about  the  natives' 
love  for  singing.  The  priests  taught  them  the  chants  of  their 
services  to  their  great  delight.  Sometimes,  she  said,  an  In- 
dian would  be  picking  berries  back  in  the  underbrush.  He 
would  begin  to  sing  or  chant,  another  voice  would  take  up 
the  refrain  in  another  part  of  the  woods  and  then  another  and 
another  until  the  strain  would  reach  the  fishermen  out  on  the 
waters,  and  the  clam  diggers  along  the  beach,  who  would  join 
their  voices  in  swelling  the  volume  of  sound  until  the  woods 
and  shore  would  ring  with  the  wild  melody. 

As  a  means  of  raising  funds,  the  Fathers  had  a  number 
of  their  most  promising  Indian  lads  organized  into  a  band 
with  a  drum  and  a  fife  as  the  principal  instruments.  Summer 
evenings  this  band  would  be  marched  up  to  the  settlement  and 
paraded  along  the  streets,  discoursing  their  music  on  the 
corners.  The  cap  would  then  be  passed  and  contributions 
were  freely  given  the  youngsters.  The  ladies  of  Olympia,  in 
order  to  encourage  the  lads,  made  them  caps  of  bright  red 
cloth.  These  caps  were  the  delight  of  the  members  of  the 
band  and  were  always  worn  when  the  boys  came  up  to  town. 

On  one  occasion  the  Father,  who  had  special  training  of  a 
class  of  Indian  boys,  marched  them  up  to  the  public  school 
for  the  purpose  of  giving  an  exhibition  of  their  attainments. 
There  were  perhaps  a  dozen  boys  in  the  class,  ranging  from 
fifteen  years  down  to  a  little  fellow  of  only  about  three  years  of 
age.  The  boys  had  been  carefully  instructed  to  answer  cer- 
tain questions  which  the  priest  put  to  them.  For  instance : 
"Who  is  President  of  the  United  States?"  was  asked  the  first 
lad.  Parrotlike  came  the  answer,  "Abraham  Lincoln,"  and 
so  on  down  the  line,  each  boy  answering  the  question  he  had 
been  taught.  When  the  priest  reached  the  little  fellow  at  the 
foot  of  the  class,  he  said:  "Where  were  you  born,  Rain-in-the- 
Face?"     Without  an  instant's  pause,  the  mite  chirped:     "I 


362  THURSTON  COUNTY 

was  born  in  a  canoe  when  my  mother  had  gone  to  dig  clams. 
Where,  I  know  not." 

After  the  Indian  war  and  the  various  tribes  had  been  sent 
to  the  reservations,  the  Squaxons  were  put  on  the  island  down 
the  Sound  that  now  bears  the  name  of  that  tribe,  and  the 
Fathers  found  their  field  of  usefulness  destroyed  at  the  St. 
Joseph's  Mission  and  it  Avas  abandoned,  the  land  passing  into 
possession  of  private  holders. 

When  the  year  1893  arrived,  the  acres  of  this  former  mis- 
sion, w^hich  is  now  comprised  in  Priest  Point  Park,  had  been 
allowed  to  become  delinquent  or  subject  to  county  sale  for  the 
payment  of  unpaid  taxes,  and  became  public  property  through 
foreclosure. 

Theodore  Brown,  always  loyal  to  his  native  city,  conceived 
the  idea  of  Olympia  acquiring  it  for  a  park.  He  started  the 
sentiment  and  agitation  for  city  possession  by  writing  an  ar- 
ticle which  was  published  in  the  Olympia  papers,  which  urged 
that  steps  for  possession  of  the  land  be  taken  before  private 
parties  could  get  hold  of  it. 

By  his  writings  and  talking  among  his  friends  Mr.  Brown 
worked  up  such  a  strong  sentiment  in  favor  of  his  pet  project 
that  a  number  of  citizens  went  before  the  Board  of  County 
Commissioners  to  urge  that  board  to  defer  selling  the  land  un- 
til the  city  was  in  a  position  to  buy  it  for  a  public  park. 

Among  these  men  were  Theodore  Brown,  T.  J.  Kegley, 
Elias  Payne  and  others.  They  presented  the  ease  through  At- 
torney P.  M.  Troy,  whom  they  secured  as  spokesman.  Oppo- 
sition developed  to  the  project,  partly  through  political  reasons 
and  partly  because  a  syndicate  of  speculators  had  organized 
and  cast  covetous  eyes  upon  this  beautiful  tract. 

The  Board  of  County  Commissioners  turned  a  deaf  ear  to 
the  plea  of  the  citizens  and  advertised  the  tract  for  sale,  but 
before  the  sale  could  be  consummated  an  election  occurred  and 
a  new  set  of  officials  were  elected.  Among  these  officials  was 
]\Ir.  P.  I\I.  Troy,  city  attorney.  Steps  were  immediately  taken 
to  block  the  advertised  sale  by  instituting  an  action  in  the 
Federal  Court  to  restrain  the  sale  by  representing  that  the 
city  wished  to  acquire  the  land  for  a  public  park.  Mr.  Troy's 
efforts  were  successful  and  in  May,  of  1906,  the  city  became 


PIONEER   REMINISCENCES  363 

possessors  of  the  property.  But  the  people  of  Olympia  should 
remember  that  Theodore  L.  Browu  was  the  first  man  who  con- 
ceived the  idea  of  obtaining  the  park  and  agitated  the  same 
until  the  city  finally  secured  it.  It  may  be  truly  said  that 
Theodore  L.  Brown  was  the  father  of  beautiful  Priest  Point 
Park. 

The  man  who  has  done  more  than  any  one  other  man  for 
the  park  by  his  generous  gifts  has  been  the  late  Leopold 
Schmidt.  It  was  through  his  munificence  that  the  Swiss  chalet 
which  crowns  the  highest  point  in  the  park  was  placed  there. 
This  picturesque  building  was  originally  erected  for  the  dis- 
play of  the  Olympia  Brewery  products  at  the  LcAvis  and  Clark 
Exposition  in  Portland,  Oregon.  At  the  closing  of  the  expo- 
sition ]Mr.  Schmidt  presented  the  chalet  to  the  city  of  Olym- 
pia and  at  his  own  expense  had  it  brought  from  Portland  and 
set  up  where  it  has  since  remained  one  of  the  most  attrac- 
tive and  convenient  features  of  the  park. 

When  Mr.  Schmidt's  will  was  read  a  few  days  after  his 
death  it  was  found  that  he  had  added  a  bequest  of  $1,000  for 
the  benefit  of  Priest  Point  Park. 

Leopold  Schmidt  was  a  native  of  Germany,  coming  to  the 
United  States  when  about  twenty  years  of  age.  In  America 
he  led  a  varied  and  generally  successful  life,  engaging  in 
shipping  on  the  Great  Lakes  for  a  couple  of  years.  Later  he 
learned  the  carpenters'  trade  and  assisted  in  building  the 
first  Turnverin  hall  of  the  Turner  Athletic  Society  in  the 
United  States.  This  was  in  Washington,  JNIissouri,  where  the 
young  man  learned  his  trade. 

A  few  years  later  IMr.  Schinidt  went  to  ^lontana  where  he 
followed  his  trade  in  Butte  and  Deer  Lodge  for  several  years. 
In  Butte  he  entered  into  a  partnership  with  Daniel  Gamer 
and  helped  form  the  partnership  of  Schmidt  &  Gamer,  of 
the  Centennial  Brewery  Company.  He  then  went  to  Germany 
for  the  purpose  of  entering  a  l)reAvers'  school  and  while  there 
met  the  lady  who  was  ti)  be  liis  future  wife,  the  marriage 
taking  ])lace  before  his  return  to  America.  LTpon  his  return 
]\Ir.  Schmidt  was  County  Commissioner  of  Silver  Bow  County, 
^Montana,  and  was  final  arbitrator  in  settling  the  conflict  over 
the  townsite  of  Butte,  which  was  contested  by  several  mining 
claims.     He  was  a  member  of  the  Constitutional  Convention 


364  THURSTON  COUNTY 

of  Montana,  as  delegate  from  Silver  Bow  County.  He  was 
also  in  the  first  State  Legislatures  from  that  county  as  a 
member  of  the  House.  Mr.  Schmidt  was  a  member  of  the 
Capitol  Commission  of  ^Montana  and  came  to  Olympia  in  1894 
to  inspect  the  Capitol  foundation.  At  this  visit  he  became 
interested  in  the  possibilities  of  Tumwater  water-power  and 
decided  to  remove  to  this  State. 

In  the  spring  of  1896  j\Ir.  Schmidt  started  work  on  the 
brewery  at  Tumwater  and  by  October  of  that  year  was  turn- 
ing out  the  finished  product.  Since  then  he  has  established 
the  Bellingham  Brewery  at  that  city  and  the  Acme  Brewery 
at  San  Francisco,  and  bought  and  remodeled  the  old  brewery 
at  Salem,  Oregon,  which  later  consolidated  with  the  Albany 
Brewery  Company. 

Mr.  Schmidt,  being  of  an  intensely  patriotic  nature,  liber- 
ally assisted  any  plan  or  movement  for  the  public  good,  as 
was  testified  by  his  liberal  bequest  to  Priests'  Point  Park. 


THE  JUDICIARY  OF  THURSTON  COUNTY. 


A  chapter  devoted  to  the  men  who  have  figured  in  the 
legal  history  of  Thurston  County  should  be  included  in  an 
authentic  compilation  of  pioneer  reminiscences,  accordingly,  the 
following  list  of  Chief  Justices  of  the  Supreme  Court,  M^ho  re- 
ceived their  appointments  in  territorial  days,  are  given : 

E.  Lander,  0.  B.  McFadden,  C.  C.  Ilewett,  B.  W.  Dennison, 
Wm.  L.  Hill,  Orange  Jacobs,  J.  R.  Lewis,  Roger  S.  Green, 
Richard  A.  Jones.  Of  the  Associate  Justices  there  were :  Vic- 
tor Monroe,  F.  A.  Chenoweth,  E.  C.  Fitzhugh,  J.  E.  Wyche, 
C.  B.  Darwin,  J.  K.  Kennedy,  C.  S.  Wingard,  J.  P.  Hoyt,  George 
Turner,  L.  B.  Nash,  W.  G.  Langford,  Frank  AUyn. 

Later  on  came  the  Constitutional  Convention,  the  names 
of  the  lawyer  member  of  which  it  may  not  be  inappropriate  to 
mention  in  this  connection : 

R.  0.  Dunbar,  M.  M.  Godman,  Francis  Henry,  J.  P.  Hoyt, 
B.  L.  Sharpstein,  R.  F.  Sturdevant,  George  Turner,  Allen  Weir. 


PIONEER    REMINISCENCES  865 

Of  the  brilliant  g-allaxy  of  legal  men  who  served  the  territor^' 
in  the  early  days  it  is  now  impossil)le  to  give  a  sketch  of  every 
one,  only  individual  reference  can  be  given  to  a  few  of  the  earl- 
ier ones.  Each  was  an  indispensible  unit  of  the  foundation  be- 
ing laid  in  his  day  of  this  great  commonwealth. 

One  of  the  most  prominent  of  the  earlier  jurists  was  Judge 
0.  B.  McFadden.  A  former  friend  of  Judge  ]\IcFadden's  pays 
the  folloAving  tribute  to  his  memory.  "Not  every  judge  is  an 
able  practitioner  and  vice  versa  as  was  Judge  ^IcFadden.  No 
doubt  his  reputation  for  strictest  integrity  was  an  important 
feature  of  his  success  with  judges  and  jurors.  Judge  Mc- 
Fadden's  speech  Avas  distinguished  by  fluency  and  his  de- 
nouncements of  witnesses  Avhom  he  suspected  of  perjury  were 
scathing  and  effective.  While  he  spent  much  of  his  time  on 
bis  farm  in  Lewis  County,  Judge  McFadden  had  a  comfortable 
home  in  Olympia,  wdiere  he  spent  most  of  the  winter  months." 

Hon.  C.  C.  Hewett  was  appointed  third  territorial  chief 
justice  by  President  Lincoln,  who  was  a  warm  personal  friend, 
and  was  distinguished  l)y  a  high  sense  of  justice,  a  plain,  un- 
assuming manner  and  a  Lincoln-like  simplicity,  which  won  for 
him  the  friendship  and  esteem  of  all  who  knew  him. 

As  an  illustration  of  force  of  habit,  the  following  good 
story  is  told  of  Judge  Hewett,  while  conducting  a  case  one  day : 

The  Chinook  jargon  was  so  much  in  use  in  early  days  that 
many  of  the  most  expressive  phrases  had  become  so  common 
that  they  were  frequently  employed  in  every  day  speech. 

On  this  particular  occasion,  two  attorneys  clashed  in 
animated  dispute  over  one  of  the  important  points  of  the  trial,, 
and  in  the  heat  of  the  moment,  voiced  some  expressions  in 
Chinook,  not  complimentary  to  each  other.  Judge  Hewett. 
thinking  to  rebuke  the  wranglers  for  their  disregard  of  de- 
corum, laid  down  the  following  rule:  "Gentlemen  of  the  l^ai-, 
you  will  hereafter  confine  yourself  to  the  English  language. 
I  don't  purpose  to  permit  any  more  of  this  cultus  Avawa  in 
court."    The  judge  himself  joined  in  the  laugh  which  followed. 

El  wood  J]  vans  was  known  throughout  the  territory  as  a 
man  of  high  literary  attainments,  he  having  been  a  historian 
of  note  as  well  as  one  of  the  foremost  jurists  of  his  day.  Judge 
Evans  was  one  of  the  first  attorneys  to  locate  in  Olympia, 
where  he  resided  for  many  years  with  his  family.     When  Ta- 


366  THURSTON  COUNTY 

(•;>nui  "was  on  the  boom,  he  went  to  live  there  and  it  was  in  thi' 
City  of  Destiny  that  death  came  to  him. 

Among  the  eonspieiions  fignres  of  the  Pacific  Coast  was 
Seluc-us  GarfiekU'.  In  physique,  he  was  noticeable  wherever 
he  v/as  seen,  and  his  ability  as  a  law\ver  and  statesman 
placed  him  among  the  prominent  men  of  the  Territory.  Prob- 
ably the  two  campaigns  when  Garfielde  was  a  candidate  for 
the  office  of  Delegate  in  Congress  were  the  most  exciting  of 
any  campaign  of  Territorial  days,  and  after  his  election,  while 
speaking  on  the  floor  of  the  House,  his  silvery  tongned  elo- 
quence was  remarked  and  admired  by  his  colleagues  to  such 
an  extent  that  Garfielde  became  known  as  '"The  Elotiuent 
jMeraber  from  the  Pacific."  While  in  Congress,  Garfielde  dr- 
livered  an  address  before  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  on  the  "Resources 
and  Climate  of  the  Northwest,"  which  attracted  so  much  at- 
tention that  Jay  Cook,  then  financial  agent  for  the  Northern 
Pacific  Company,  published  it  in  several  of  the  foreign  lan- 
guages for  distribution  in  Europe. 

Of  the  Judges  of  the  Superior  Court  of  Thurston  County 
since  Washington  became  a  state,  the  following  biographical 
sketches   are   given  : 

JUDGE  MASON  IRWIN 

The  first  Judge  of  the  Superior  Court  of  Thui'stou  County 
was  Mason  Irwin,  who  was  elected  to  that  honor  at  the  time 
the  Territory  of  Washington  was  admitted  as  a  State  in  1889. 
At  that  time  there  were  four  counties  in  the  district — Thurston. 
Chehalis,  Lewis  and  Mason.  Judge  Irwin  held  court  in  all  four 
of  these  counties,  until  the  Legislature  took  Thurston  out  of 
the  district  and  gave  that  county  a  separate  Judge,  J.  W.  Rob- 
inson, now  of  Seattle,  being  appointed  by  Lieutenant-Governor 
Lawton,  who  was  acting  Governor  at  the  time.  Governor  E.  P. 
Perry  was  out  of  the  State  for  some  months  on  account  of  his 
health. 

Judge  Irwin  made  his  liome  in  Lewis  Covuity,  and  has 
been  Judge  of  the  Superior  Court  there  for  several  successive 
tei'ms. 

His  first  wife  was  a  daiigliter  of  Governor  Newell,  and 
among  the  Judge's  pleasant  remenilu'ances  are  his  official  visits 


PIONEER    REMINISCENCES  367 

to  the  Capitol  City  to  attend  court.  The  first  wife  died  in 
1891  and  several  years  later  Judge  Irwin  remarried  and  his 
family  now  consists  of  his  wife  and  six  children.  In  referring 
to  his  early  Olympia  experiences,  Judge  Irwin  said  : 

''There  is  little  to  be  said  about  my  experiences  on  the 
bench  in  that  county ;  they  were  the  usual  experiences  of  a 
judge  on  the  bench.  They  had  an  agreeable  Bar  there  at  that 
time,  and  I  had  many  acquaintances  in  the  city  and  made  many 
acquaintances  throughout  the  county,  through  the  jurors 
coming  in  to  attend  court." 

MERRITT  J.  GORDON 

]\I.  J.  Gordon  was  the  third  Judge  of  Thurston  Count> 
after  Washington  was  admitted  to  statehood.  Upon  the 
resignation  of  Mr.  Joe  Kobinson  in  the  summer  of  1892,  Gov 
ernor  E.  P.  Ferry  appointed  ]\Ir.  Gordon  to  fill  the  vacancy 
thus  occasioned. 

At  the  general  election  in  November,  1892,  Judge  Gordoi. 
was  elected  by  the  vote  of  the  people  for  a  four  year  term 
serving  on  the  bench  until  January,  1895,  when  he  resigneo 
to  go  on  the  Supreme  Bench  of  the  State.  This  position  ht 
held  for  the  succeeding  three  years  when  he  was  made  cor 
poration  counsel  for  the  Northern  Pacific  Company  and  re 
signed  to  move  to  Spokane  where  he  made  his  home  for  several 
.^ears. 

Judge  Gordon  is  now  senior  mem])er  of  the  law  firm  of 
Gordon  and  Easterday  of  Taeoma. 

He  was  born  in  Sherbrooke  in  the  Province  of  Quel)ee 
]\Iarch  17,  1859 ;  began  the  practice  of  law  in  Dakota  Territor;s 
in  1880,  residing  at  Aberdeen ;  was  district  attorney  of  that 
district  and  city  attorney  of  the  city;  president  of  the  Bai 
Association  of  the  Fifth  Judicial  District,  and  member  of  the 
first  State  Legislature  of  South  Dakota ;  came  to  01\in])ia 
Washington,  in  the  spring  of  1890. 

THOMAS  MILBURNE  REED,  JR. 

]\Ir.  T.  I\r.  Reed,  fourth  Judge  of  the  Superior  Court  of 
the   State   of   Washington,    was    l)()i"n    in     Colonia.     California, 


368  THURSTON  COUNTY 

about  the  year  1856,  coming  to  Olynipia  with  his  parents  at' 
an  early  age.  When  but  14  years  of  age,  he  had  graduated 
from  the  University  of  California  and  from  there  spent  five 
years  taking  the  normal  eonrse  at  Princeton  College.  After 
graduation  at  the  latter  institution,  ]Mr.  Reed  returned  for  a 
year  to  take  a  post-graduate  course  in  the  law  department. 

He  was  a  junior  member  of  the  law  firm  of  Brown,  Ten 
Eyke  &  Reed,  in  the  early  '80 's.  this  firm  having  offices  in  a 
l)uilding  near  the  site  of  the  old  Episcopal  Church,  where  now 
stands  the  Mitchell  Hotel. 

Later  Reed  moved  to  Seattle,  where  he  was  engaged  in  a 
successful  law  practice  until  the  fire  of  1889  destroyed  his 
library  and  office  furniture. 

In  the  year  of  1886  JMr.  Reed  was  married  to  ^Miss  Ida 
]McKenny  and  a  few  years  later  returned  to  Olympia  to  make 
his  home. 

He  was  appointed  Judge  of  the  Superior  Court  of  Thurston 
County  by  the  late  Governor  John  McGraw  upon  the  resigna- 
tion of  J.  W.  Robinson  from  that  position. 

At  the  expiration  of  his  term  of  office  Judge  Reed  and 
his  family  went  to  Nome,  Alaska,  to  make  their  home.  He 
is  still  practicing  his  profession  of  law  in  that  place,  enjoying 
an  extensive  practice.  Judge  Reed  was  appointed  United 
States  Commissioner  for  Alaska  and  has  been  City  Attorney 
(/f  Nome  for  several  years. 

Judge  and  Mrs.  Reed  have  two  children.  Irving  ]\I.  and 
Constance  Elizabeth. 


CHARLES  HENRY  AVER 

Charles  Henry  Ayer  was  born  in  Saybrook,  Connecticut, 
April  25,  1862.  He  studied  in  the  public  and  private  schools 
of  the  towm,  and  completed  the  law  course  in  Yale  University. 
In  1884  he  came  to  Olympia,  Washington,  and  entered  the  law 
(ffice  of  J.  C.  McFadden.  He  later  went  in  business  for  him- 
self and  also  formed  several  different  partnerships,  being  asso- 
ciated for  several  years  with  the  late  T.  N.  Allen.  He  served 
one  term  as  county  attorney  of  Thurston  County,  and  one 
term  as  mayor  of  Olympia.  In  1896  he  w^as  elected  superior 
judge  of  Thurston  County,  and  filled  that  office  at  the  time  of 


CHARI^ES  AYER 
(Deceased.) 


JOHN   R.    MITCHKIX 
(Incumbent.) 


SUPERIOR  JUDGES— PAST  AND  PRESENT 


PIONEER    REMINISCENCES  369 

his  death  March  9,  1898.     In  1891  he  married  M'ihh  Cora  Ellis. 
who  together  with  their  five  children,  survives  him. 

JUDGE  BYRON  MILLETT 

Judge  Batod  Millett  was  born  in  1849.  He  came  to  Wis- 
consin when  a  child,  with  his  parents  and  was  educated  at  Ra- 
cine College.  He  w^as  admitted  to  the  practice  of  law  in  1872. 
and  located  at  Columbus,  Nebraska.  He  was  elected  mayor  of 
that  thriving  little  city  in  1876.  In  1883  he  moved  to  Colo- 
rado, and  practiced  law  at  Denver  until  1889,  then  moved  to 
Washington.  Located  at  01ymi)ia  in  the  spring  of  1890.  where 
he  has  since  resided.  In  th-e  early  part  of  1898  he  was  ap- 
pointed Superior  Judge  of  Thurston  County  by  Governor  John 
R.  Rogers,  to  fill  the  vacancy  caused  by  the  death  of  Judge 
Chas.  H.  Ayer,  Since  locating  at  Olympia,  he  has  served  as 
a  member  of  the  City  Council  of  that  city,  also  as  Assistant 
State  Law  Librarian  and  as  a  member  of  the  State  Board  of 
Law  Examiners. 

OLIVER  V.  LINN 

The  able  attorney,  who  for  six  years  occupied  the  position 
of  judge  of  the  districts  comprised  by  Thurston  and  ]\Iason 
Counties — Oliver  V.  Linn,  came  to  Washington  from  his  boy- 
hood home  in  Pennsylvania  in  the  A'ear  1889.  After  spending 
a  short  time  on  Grays  Harbor,  he  removed  to  Olympia,  where 
he  made  his  home  continuously  until  the  time  of  his  death 
in  1908. 

O.  V.  Linn  received  his  education  at  Wilmington,  and  was 
admitted  to  the  bar  shortly  before  coming  to  the  West.  Upon 
his  settling  in  Olympia  he  formed  a  law  partnership  with  Joe 
M.  Robinson,  contiuing  the  successful  practise  of  his  profession 
luitil  the  year  1900,  when  he  was  elected  Judge  of  the  Superior 
Court  on  the  Republican  ticket.  In  1906  he  M-as  re-elected, 
and  in  1908  was  an  active  candidate  for  nomination  to  the 
Supreme  bench  under  the  direct  primary  law.  His  death,  how- 
ever, occurred  in  the  fall  of  the  same  year,  valvular  heart 
trouble  being  the  cause  of  his  death.  His  wife,  Margaret,  and 
one  son,  Donald,  comprist'd  his  iinnuMliate  family. 


370  THURSTON  COUNTY 

Judge  Linn  was  an  honorable,  genial  man,  loved  by  his 
many  friends,  and  respected  and  honored  by  his  legal  associates. 

His  widow,  Margaret,  died  in  December,  1913,  at  the 
Linn  home,  in  Olympia. 


JOHN  R.  MITCHELL 

John  R.  ]\Iitchell  was  born  in  Halifax  County,  Virginia 
January  31,  1861.  From  six  to  seventeen  years  of  age  he  at- 
tended private  school.  From  1878  to  1888  engaged  in  farm- 
ing and  mercantile  pursuits  (mostly  hunting)  at  his  old  home 
the  last  three  years  of  which  he  read  law  under  a  practicing 
lawyer.  Mr.  Mitchell  came  to  Olympia,  Washington  Territory 
April  28,  1888,  and  formed  a  partnership  with  ]\L  A.  Root 
at  that  time  Probate  Judge.  He  was  admitted  to  the  bar  bj 
the  Superior  Court  (Mason  Irwin,  Judge)  of  Thurston  County, 
on  November  23,  1889.  In  1890  the  young  man  studied  law  at 
the  L^niversity  of  Virginia.  He  dissolved  partnership  with  M 
A.  Root  in  January,  1893,  upon  his  cpialifying  as  Prosecuting 
Attorney. 

Mr.  JMitchell  was  admitted  to  the  bar  by  the  Supreme 
Court,  May  24,  1894.  He  was  elected  Prosecuting  Attorney 
in  1896  and  served  1897-9,  and  in  January,  1901,  formed  a 
law  partnership  with  Thos.  M.  Vance,  Esq.,  which  continued 
until  Mitchell  was  chosen  to  the  bench.  Elected  Judge  of 
the  Superior  Court  for  Thurston  and  ]Mason  Counties  in  1908 
for  four  years  and  re-elected  without  opposition,  in  1912 — 
the  position  which  he  now  occupies.  In  politics  he  is  a  democrat. 

J.  R.  Mitchell  was  married  to  Hallie  Price,  of  Clarksville, 
Tenn.,  on  April  22,  1891,  while  she  Avas  on  a  visit  with  rela- 
tives in  Olympia ;  to  which  union  one  child,  Richard  S.,  was 
born  May  15,  1894;  the  son  is  now  a  student  at  the  State 
University. 

CHARLES  E.  CLAYPOOL 

Charles  Ethelbert  Claypool,  at  present  Judge  of  Depart 
ment  2  of  the  Superior  Court  for  Thurston  County,  was  borr; 
in  Indiana  in  1861.  He  came  to  Puget  Sound  in  the  late  terri- 
torial days,  and  was  one  of  the  prominent  younger  men  in  the 


PIONEER   REMINISCENCES 


371 


days  of  early  statehood.    He  was  for  many  years  with  the  Xa 
tional  Guard,  and  served  on  the  personal  staffs  of  the  last  Ter- 
ritorial  and   first   State   Governors,   was   State   Senator  from 
Pierce  County  in  the  second   and  third  legislatures,  Deput;s 
Prosecuting  Attorney,  and  Assistant  U.  S.  Attorney.     For  a 
long  time  he  was  the  head  of  the  law  firm  of  Claypool,  Gush 
man  &  Cushman.  at  Tacoma.     He  went  to  Alaska  in  1900,  re- 
signing his   government  post  for  that .  purpose,  returning  to 
make  his  home  at  Olympia  several  years  ago.    Judge  Claypool 
served  tAvo  years  and  a  half  as  City  Attorney  of  Olyrajoia,  re 
signing  that  office  to  accept  an  appointment  to  the  bench  h\ 
Governor  Lister  in  1913.     Pie  was  opposed  by  three  other  as 
pirants  at  the  late  primary  and  did  not  receive  the  nomina 
tion.     He   married   an   Olympia  girl,   Miss  Annie  B.   Cowles 
twenty-four  years  ago,  and  they  have  two  children,  a  son  and 
a  daughter.     The  family  live  in  their  own  home  at  1617  Sj'l 
vester  Street. 


PIONEER    REMINISCENCES  373 


CHRONOLOGICAL  TABLE 

Events  as  recorded  successively  by  the  "Columbian" 
(1852-3)  ;  "Washin(?ton  Pioneer"  (1853-4)  ;  "Pioneer  &  Demo- 
crat"   (1854-1860);   "Washington   Standard"    (1860-1873). 

1852 

September  11 — The  Columlnan,  a  weekly  newspaper,  com- 
menced publication. 

September  14— Nelson  Barnes,  Jr.,  was  instantly  killed, 
on  Newaukum  River,  by  falling  of  a  tree. 

September  23 — Brig  James  Marshall  arrived  at  Olympia, 
thirty  days  from  San  Francisco. 

October  23 — Brig  G.  W.  Kendall  arrived,  seventeen  days 
from  San  Francisco. 

November  6 — A  new  coal  mine  was  reported  disco veretl 
on  the  Skookumchuek,  by  S.  S.  Ford,  Jr. 

November  13 — A  call  for  a  meeting  of  citizens  of  North- 
ern Oregon  was  made,  to  discuss  advisability  of  memorializ- 
ing Congress  for  Territorial  division. 

November  13— M.  T.  Simmons,  S.  P.  Moses,  S.  D.  Ruddle. 
^^dam  Wylie,  H.  A.  Goldsborough,  Q.  A.  Brooks,  Wm.  Plumb 
and  C.  W.  Hale  were  elected  delegates  to  Monticello  con- 
vention. 

November  13— Brig  G.  W.  Kendall  sailed  for  San  Fran- 
cisco with  6,700  feet  sawed  timber;  5,000  feet  hewed  timber; 
10,000  shingles;  100  l)arrcls  oil. 

November  13 — New  saw  mill  reported  in  course  of  erec- 
tion on  Nisqually  River,  seven  miles  from  Steilacoom. 

November  20 — Colum])ian  announces  removal  of  its  of- 
fice to  building  near  ]\Iain  and  First  Streets,  in  building  with 
postoffice  and  custom  house,  where  they  "are  entirely  above 
high  tide  and  have  no  use  for  canoe  to  navigate  ai'ound  our 
sanctum." 

Novcmbci-  27  -  Aulhoi'il  ics   in    Wasliington   consent    to   es- 


374  THURSTON  COUNTY 

labiishmcnt  of  a  mail  route  from  Olj'mpia  to  Steilacoom,  pro- 
viding a  contract  can  be  made  for  $140  annually. 

November  27. — Schooner  Franklin  sailed  for  San  Fran- 
cisco with  300  barrels  salmon,  8650  feet  sawed  lumber,  14  hogs. 

December  4 — Wm.  Dowling  opened  Columbia  Hotel  on 
Second  Street. 

December  4 — Announces  death  of  infant  son  of  Col.  ]M. 
T.  Simmons. 

December  11 — Brig  June  sailed  for  San  Francisco  with 
800  feet  piles,  200  barrels  salmon,  140,000  shingles,  30  cords 
wood. 

December  11 — Columbian  announces  fourth  Aveek  of  go- 
ing to  press  without  eastern  mail. 

December  18 — Every  house  between  Cowlitz  and  Olympia 
crowded  with  emigrant  families. 

1853 

January  1 — Edmund  Sylvester  donated  two  lots  to  j\Ia- 
sonic  fraternity. 

January  1 — Columbian  announces  unconfirmed  rumor  that 
President  Pierce  has  been  elected  President. 

January  1 — Also  that  Oregon  Territorial  Legislature  has 
been  in  session  three  weeks,  but  no  authentic  information  has 
been  received  at  Olympia  '^.f  its  proceedings. 

January  1 — Rev.  Berij.  Close  assigned  by  ^Methodist 
Church  to  Northern  Oregon,  takes  up  residence  in  Olympia. 

January  1 — A.  W.  Moore  opens  public  school. 

January  8 — Bark  Sarah  Warren  arrived  at  Olympia  with 
•i^lS.OOO  worth  of  merchandise.  She  was  twenty-three  days  on 
way  from  San  Francisco  and  brought  two  passengers,  Capt. 
S.  W.  Percival  and  wife. 

January  22 — Dr.  D.  S.  Maynard  of  Seattle,  married  to 
]\rrs.  Catherin  Broshears,  of  Thurston  County. 

February  26 — Died  at  Allen's  point,  six  miles  below 
Olympia,  Benj.  F.,  infant  son  of  Isaac  Dofflemyer. 

March  19 — A  tiger  was  caught,  weighing  over  200  pounds, 
by  the  "boys"  on  ^Mr.  Bush's  farm,  six  miles  from  Olympia. 

jMarch  19 — "Wright,  Coulter  &  Co.,  opened  a  general  mer- 
chandise store. 

March  19 — Large  quantities  of  coal  are  being  hauled  from 


PIONEER    REMINISCENCES  375 

Skookvimchnck  coal  fields  for  shipment  to  San  Francisco. 

March  19. — J.  W.  Wiley  sold  his  interest  in  the  Colum- 
bian to  J.  J.  Beebe. 

jNIarch  19 — Olympia  enjoys  first  theatrical  performance. 
General  Jack  Rag,  celebrated  actor  and  vocalist,  gave  a  grand 
entertainment  at  Olympia  House.  Tickets  25  cents;  children 
and  "niggers"  free.     Tickets  sold  at  the  bar. 

]\Iarch  26 — Several  new  buildings  erected.  Catholic- 
Church  completed. 

March  26 — J.  R.  Johnson,  M.  D.,  announces  opening  of  a 
hospital  at  his  point,  fifteen  miles  below  Olympia. 

April  9 — A  bed  of  oysters  discovered,  four  or  five  acres 
in  extent,  on  South  Bay. 

April  9 — Wm.  Dowling,  proprietor  Columbia  house,  died. 

April  9 — U.  S.  District  Court  opened  in  Thurston  County, 
Judge  Strong  presiding. 

April  16 — Brig  Kingsbury  sailed  for  San  Francisco  with 
250  piles,  20,000  feet  sawed  lumber,  30  cords  wood. 

April  16 — Methodist  Church  erected. 

April  23 — Thirty  families  en  route  to  Thurston  County, 
reported  between  Olympia  and  the  Cowlitz. 

April  23 — One  hundred  guns  fired  by  Olympia  light  ar- 
tillery in  honor  of  the  new  Territory,  Washington,  first  estab- 
lished by  act  of  Congress. 

May  7 — First  drayage  business  established  in  Olympia  by 
Post  Master  A.  W.  Moore. 

]\lay  21 — Conrad  Snyder  establishes  a  brickyard  in 
Olympia. 

May  28 — General  merchandise  firm  of  Wright,  Coulter  & 
Co.,  dissolved,  and  establishment  continued  under  name 
Parker,  Coulter  &  Co.,  John  G.  Parker  being  new  member. 

June  4 — John  Edgar,  Whitfield  Kirtley,  E.  J.  Allen  and 
Geo.  Shazer  leave  for  east  of  the  mountains  to  confer  relative 
to  a  road  to  AValla  Walla. 

June  4 — Married,  Jesse  Furgeson  to  Margaret  J.  Rut- 
ledge,  all  of  Thurston  County. 

July  9 — J.  Patton  Anderson,  first  U.  S.  Marshal,  arrives, 
and  prepares  to  take  census. 

July  9 — Account  of  celebration  of  Fourth  of  Jul\'  by 
salute  at  sunrise  and  usual  patriotic  program.     At  a  meeting 


376  THURSTON  COUNTY 

at  the  ]\IetluHlist  Chureh  toasts  were  proposed  and  responded 
to  by  prominent  citizens.  Lieut.  Kautz,  U.  S.  A.,  responded 
to  "Army  and  Navy,"  and  offered  "The  citizens  of  Olympia 
— may  they  always  have  high  tides,  so  that,  like  elams,  they 
may  be  ever  happy." 

July  9 — Died,  Rebecca  V.  Chambers,  wife  of  Andrew  J. 
Chambers,  aged  nineteen  years. 

July  16 — Great  demand  for  labor.  One  hundred  laborers 
called  for  at  good  wages. 

July  23 — D.  C.  Beatty  commencetl  manufacture  of  furni- 
ture in  Olympia. 

July  30 — Married,  at  Scatter  Creek,  Thurston  County,  on 
the  26th  inst.,  by  Wm.  Plumb,  Samuel  Coulter  to  Harriet  E. 
Tilley. 

July  30 — Public  meeting  to  discuss  plans  for  betterment 
of  mail  service. 

August  13 — Olympia  markets  destitute  of  flour. 

August  13 — Married.  James  T.  Philips  to  Junetta  Grogan, 
p.ll  of  Thurston  County. 

August  13 — Died,  James  II.  Yantis,  seventeen  years  of 
age.     Also  John  M.  Monroe,  aged  twenty-three  years. 

September  17 — T.  F.  McElroy  disposes  of  the  Columbian 
to  Mat.  K.  Smith. 

September  10 — List  of  164  letters  i)ul)lished,  remaining 
uncalled  in  i)ostof¥ice.  If  not  called  for  within  three  months 
will  be  sent  to  Washington,  D.  C. 

October  8 — Chief  Justice  Lander,  Secretary  ^lason  and  IT. 
S.  Attorney'  Clendenin  arrive  in  Olympia.  Reported  that  Gov- 
ernor Stevens  had  arrived  in  White  River  valley  en  route  to 
Olympia. 

November  12 — Married,  in  Washington  County,  Oregon, 
Wm.  Billings,  of  Olympia,  to  Mary  Angeline  Miller. 

Also  at  Olympia,  Benj.  Gordon  to  Julia  Ann  McCullougli. 
all  of  this  county. 

November  19 — Died,  on  Chambers'  Prairie,  Eliza  Jane 
Hicks,  aged  twenty-one  years. 

November  26 — Census  completed.  Thurston  County  re- 
turns 996,  Pierce  513,  the  Territory  3965. 

December  3 — The  Columbian  becomes  the  "Washington 
l^ioneer,"  J.  W.  Wiley,  pul)lishei'. 


PIONEER    REMINISCENCES  377 

Died,  at  Olynipia,  Nov.  21,  of  consumption,  'Sirs.  Sarali 
Cornell,  aged  twenty-four  3'ears. 

December  10 — A.  M.  Berry  associated  with  J.  W.  Wiley 
in  publication  of  Washington   Pioneer. 

December  24 — Capt.  IMcClellan,  Lieut.  Donalson,  Lieut. 
Duncan,  Messrs.  Winter,  Moffitt,  Bixby,  Giddings,  and  Suck- 
ley,  all  attached  to  Gov.  Stevens'  exploration  party,  arrive  in 
Ohnipia. 

1854 

January  21 — Governor  Stevens  contracts  for  several  build- 
ings to  be  built  on  Main  Street,  Olympia,  for  j)ublic  offices 
and  headquarters  for  Northern  Railway  exploring  party. 

Married,  A.  J.  Moses  to  ]\Iiss  Sarah  J.  Head,  both  of 
Olympia. 

Married,  at  Xew  Market,  A.  B.  Rabbeson  to  Miss  Lucy 
Barnes. 

Married,  Andrew  J.  Chambers  to  Margaret  White. 

February  4 — Pioneer  and  Democrat  announces  ''six  weeks 
without  a  mail  from  the  East,  and  three  w^ithout  one  even  from 
Oregon." 

February  25 — Seal  of  the  Territory  designed  by  a  member 
of  the  Northern  Railway  exploring,  offered  for  adoption. 
(This  design  was  afterward  adopted.  It  represented  a  sheet 
of  water  being  traversed  by  a  steamer  and  sailing  vessel,  with 
a  Goddess  of  Hope,  with  an  anchor,  pointing  to  the  Chinook 
word  ''AIM"). 

At  the  election  just  held  in  the  Territorj- — the  first — 
Thurston  County  cast  171  votes  more  than  any  other  county. 

IMarried,  S.  Nelson  Woodruff'  to  Samantha  Packwood. 
eldest  daughter  of  Wm.  Packwood. 

Announces  dedication  of  the  Methodist  Church,  which 
took  place  March  19,  Rev.  J.  F.  DeVore.  pastor. 

February  25 — First  Tei-ritorial  Legislature  meets  (]\Ion- 
day,  Feb.  27). 

March  25 — Victor  ^Monroe  delivers  an  address  advocating 
])rohibiti()n. 

Ajjril  8 — First  Legislative  ball  given,  under  supervision 
nf  Wm.  Cock,  of  the  Pacific  Hotel,  where  the  event  took  place. 

April  15— A.  J.  and  N.  P.  Miller  commence  erection  of  a 


378  THURSTON  COUNTY 

steam  saw  mill  at  North  Olympia,  two  miles  below  town,  "the 
largest  lumbering  establishment  on  the  Sound." 

April  29 — Married,  by  Chief  Justice  Lander,  John  G. 
Parker  to  Jerusha  Hays. 

Died,  Mrs.  Angeliue  White,  wife  of  John  ]\I.  White. 

May  13 — Bernard  Cornelius,  graduate  of  Trinity  College, 
Dublin,  establishes  a  classical,  mathematical,  commercial  and 
training  school  in  Olympia. 

Married,  G.  AV.  Allen  to  Hester  Paekwood,  daughter  of 
Wm.  Paekwood. 

]\Iay  20 — Bishop  Scott  and  Rev.  D.  McCarthy  announce 
first  Episcopal  Church  meeting  for  Sunday,  28th  inst. 

May  27 — Married,  C.  G.  Saylor  to  Matilda  J.  Sargent. 

Died,  Geo.  W.  Guthrie,  on  Chambers'  Prairie. 

June  10 — Postoffice  established  on  Ground  Mound,  L.  D. 
Durgin,  postmaster. 

July  1 — The  first  Sunday  school  opened  in  Olympia  under 
superintendence  of  Rev.  G.  F.  Whitworth,  in  the  Hall  of  Repre- 
sentatives. 

May  13 — Announces  drowning  of  G.  N.  MeConaha  and 
Capt.  Barstow,  which  occurred  May  4th,  while  making  pas- 
sage in  a  canoe  between  Vashon  Island  and  Alki.  Mr.  Me- 
Conaha was  returning  home  from  Olympia,  where  he  has  pre- 
sided as  President  of  the  first  Legislative  Council. 

July  8 — Henry  Cock,  Dr.  Kauby  and  Judge  Roundtree 
start  for  Yakima  to  prospect  for  gold.  Reported  that  $3  to 
$5  per  day  to  the  hand  has  been  obtained. 

July  15 — Firm  of  Bettman  &  Brand  dissolve.  ]\Ir.  Bett- 
man  was  third  one  to  open  business  in  Olympia,  and  now  be- 
comes associated  with  his  brother  in  same. 

August  5 — Commence  pile  driving  for  a  dock  to  deep 
water. 

August  19 — First  class  in  vocal  music  organized,  under 
Mrs.  M.  A.  Haram,  who  "as  a  teacher  of  sacred  music  has  few 
superiors  living." 

Messrs.  Ensign,  Blankenship  and  Kirtley  return  from  a 
prospecting  tour  in  Cascade  Mountains.  Convinced  gold  ex- 
ists there  but  doubt  its  presence  in  paying  quantities.  They 
reported  favorable  progress  on  the  immigrant  road  over  the 
mountains. 


PIONEER    REMINISCENCES  379 

September  2 — Tumwater  floiirino:  mill  commences  opera- 
tion, under  management  of  Ward  &  Hays. 

Silas  Gallagher  arrives,  being  first  accession  to  the  popu- 
lation of  Olympia  from  the  Atlantic  states  that  summer. 

September  16 — Messrs.  Giddings  and  Scration  arrive  at 
Olympia,  four  days  from  San  Francisco,  breaking  record  for 
time  to  that  date. 

Death  of  A.  M.  Berry,  senior  })roprietor  of  the  Pioneer 
and  Democrat  announced.  He  died  in  New  Hampshire  of 
smallpox.  He  had  gone  East  to  make  contract  for  printing 
the  laws  and  journals  for  the  Territory. 

October  15 — Contract  let  for  bridge  across  bay  to  eastside. 

Edmund  Sylvester  returns  from  East,  where  he  went  to 
be  married,  accompanied  by  ]\Irs.  T.  F.  McElroy  and  Mrs.  A. 
J.  Baldwin,  a  sister  of  Mrs.  Sylvester. 

October  21 — Married,  Francis  ]\Iarion  Rhodes  and  Mary 
Ann  Mounts,  all  of  Thurston  County. 

Died,  Miss  Jane  Thomson. 

December  9 — Second  Legislative  Assembly  convened  (Dec. 
4),  at  old  Masonic  Temple. 

1855 

February  3 — Legislature  adjourned,  after  locating  capital 
at  Olympia,  penitentiary  at  Fort  Vancouver,  and  University 
at  Seattle,  with  a  brand*  on  Boisfort  Plains,  Lewis  County. 

Married,  Urban  E.  Ilicks,  County  Auditor,  to  India  Ann 
Hartsock. 

February  24 — ^Married,  by  Edward  Lander,  Henry  Rader, 
of  Bellingham,  to  I\Iiss  Elizabeth  Austin. 

Drowned,  crossing  Skookumchuck,  George  Watson 
Stevens.  He  was  a  kinsman  and  private  secretary  to  Gov. 
Stevens. 

]\Iarch  24 — ]\Iajor  Tilton,  Surveyor-General,  arrived  at 
Olympia. 

J.  Patton  Anderson  resigned  as  U.  S.  Marshal. 

April  21— On  Gravelly  Prairie,  by  Rev.  G.  F.  Whitworth, 
A.  Benton  ]\Ioses  to  Sarah  Jane,  daughter  of  B.  F.  Yantis. 

Married,  Geo.  AV.  Corliss  to  Lucretia  R.  Judson. 

]\ray  12 — Democratic  Territorial  convention  met  in  Olym- 
pia and  noiniiuiti'd  J.  Patton  Anderson  for  Congress. 


380  THURSTON  COUNTY 

Wm.  Hicks  eomniitted  suicide  by  drowning  in  the  liay 
just  below  town.  The  first  recorded  act  of  self  destruction. 
Insanity,  caused  by  too  close  application  to  study  of  spirit 
rapping. 

I\[ay  26— W.  W.  Miller  appointed  Clerk  of  the  District 
Court  for  the  Second  District. 

June  13 — Married,  Jas.  K.  Hurd  to  Eliza  A.  Woodward. 

Died,  Eaehel  Henrietta,  wife  of  John  D.  Biles,  near 
Vancouver. 

August  17 — Meeting  held  at  Washington  Hotel  t;)  fix 
standard  value  of  various  silver  coins  in  circulation. 

October  5 — Married,   Butler  P.   Anderson   to   lone  Head. 

October  12 — Married.  Joseph  Bunting  to  I\Iiss  I\r.  A.  E. 
JMcAllistei". 

Died,  Nathaniel  Alden,  son  of  Wm.  and  Mary  Angeline 
Billings.  Also  Mary  Angeline  Billings,  wife  of  Wm.  Billings, 
tAventy-six  years  of  age. 

October  19 — Call  by  Acting  Governor  for  two  companies 
of  mounted  volunteers. 

October  26 — John  0.  Parker  placed  Steamer  Traveler  on 
route  between  Olympia  and  Seattle. 

Married,  A.  J.  Baldwin  to  Miss  Mary  Battle. 

November  9 — The  Pioneer  and  Democrat  announces  as 
reason  for  having  missed  an  issue  of  the  paper  that  "the  hands 
in  the  office  were  either  acting  as  volunteers  or  were  engaged 
in  the  work  of  fortifying  Olympia." 

Also  announces  death  of  James  ^IcAllister,  A.  Benton 
Closes  and  Joseph  Miles,  killed  by  the  Indians. 

Married,  J.  C.  Patton  to  Mary  E.  Weed,  all  of  Olympia. 

Companies  of  volunteers  for  service  in  the  Indian  war  or- 
ganized  at  Olympia,   Chambers'   and   Grand   Mound   Prairies. 

Third  session  of  the  Legislative  Assembly  meets  in 
Olympia. 

Married,  Wm.  Baffleck  to  IMiss  Elizabeth  Sinnnons. 

1856 

January  4 — Married,  by  Rev.  G.  F.  AVhitworth,  Elwood 
Evans  to  3Iiss  Elzira  Z.  Gore. 

January  25 — Governor  Stevens  returned  from  the  National 
Capitol  and  is  given  a  hearty  reception. 


PIONEER    REMINISCENCES  381 

February  8 — First  company  of*  volunteers  raised  iu  Thurs- 
ton County  under  call  of  Gov.  Stevens.  Also  a  company  of 
^Mounted  Rangers. 

April  4- — A  detachment  of  twenty  men  were  sent  by  Gov. 
Stevens  to  apprehend  Indians  who  had  raided  Yelm  Prairie 
and  driven  off  and  killed  a  large  number  of  head  of  stock 
belonging  to  Messrs.  Brail,  Longmire  and  Chambers. 

July  4 — On  account  of  the  Indian  troubles  the  National 
holiday  was  not  celebrated.  A  picnic  was  held  down  the  bay,' 
on  the  return  from  which  the  revenue  cutter,  Jeff  Davis,  ac- 
companied the  Steamer  Traveler,  firing  a  salute. 

July  18 — iNIarried.  Chas.  C.  Ferry  to  Mary  J.  Russell. 

July  25 — ]\Iarried,  by  Rev.  DeVore,  Thomas  Rutledge  to 
Miss  M.  L.  Shotwell. 

September  5 — T.  W.  Glascow  introduced  the  first  thresh- 
ing machine  in  Thurston  County  and  advertised  it  for  use. 

September  19 — Died,  at  Olympia,  on  the  loth  inst.,  Victor 
]\Ionroe,  Associate  Justice  of  the  United  States  Court.  He 
was  a  native  of  Kentucky  and  was  aged  about  forty  years. 

September  26 — ^Married,  John  French  to  ]\Iiss  Rebecca 
Littlejohn. 

Also,  James  ]\Iix  to  Mary  Littlejohn. 

At  ]\Iiami  Prairie,  James  Laws  to  Hester  Bryan,  all  of 
Thurston  County. 

December  12 — Fourth  Legislative  Assembly  convened  on 
the  4th  inst. 

Married,  Joseph  Gibson  to  Narcissa  Jane  Ilenness,  both 
of  Thurston  County. 

December  19 — INIarried,   Wm.   ]\Iartin  to  Ann  E.   Yantis. 

By  Rev.  G.  F.  Whitworth.  Daniel  C.  Beatty  to  Mary  Jane 
Thomson. 

1857 

January  2 — Married,  Louis  D.  Barnard  to  ]Mar\'  A. 
Parsons. 

James  Redpath  to  P.  Catharine  Ostrander.  daughter  of 
Dr.  N.  Ostrander,  occurring  December  9. 

January  23 — Reception  by  Gov.  Stevens  and  wife,  a1  their 
new  residence  on  Capital  Hill,  attended  by  citizens  of  Olympia 


382  THURSTON  COUNTY 

and  vicinity,  the  members  of  the  Legislature  and  officers  of 
the  U.  S.  S.  Massachusetts. 

March  27^W.  K.  Stockend,  a  farm  hand  on  Teualquot 
Prairie,  killed  a  panther,  six  feet,  seven  inches  long,  in  a  fair 
fist  and  boot  fight.  The  elaborated  account  in  the  Pioneer 
and  Democrat  proves  that  likely  candidates  died  before  the 
Ananias  Club  was  organized. 

May  29 — "Colored"  Republican  convention  met  in  Olym- 
pia  and  nominated  a  candidate  for  Delegate  to  Congress,  after 
adopting  a  platform  affirming  that  "James  Buchanan,  as  well 
as  the  Supreme  Court,  should  be  abolished  as  a  great  humbug 
and  that  a  white  man  was  a  good  as  a  negro  when  behaving." 

May  29— At  Swanville,  by  Rev.  G.  F.  Whit  worth,  :\Iaj.  G. 
C.  Blankenship  to  Mrs.   Sarah  Jane  jMoses,  married. 

June  26 — In  San  Francisco,  Isaac  Lightner,  an  Olympia 
business  man,  to  j\Iiss  Dorothea  Leseritz. 

July  17 — B.  F.  Brown,  two  miles  below  town,  on  the  west- 
side,  commenced  the  erection  of  a  wharf  to  deep  water  at 
that  point. 

September  11 — Gov.  Fayette  JMc^Mullen  arrived  and  took 
oath  of  off'ice. 

INIarried,    William   Wright   to   Sarah   Ellen   Littlejohn. 

Contract  for  carrying  mail  from  San  Francisco  to  Olym- 
pia, let  to  Pacitie  Mail  S.  S.  Co. 

Died,  G.  B.  Goudy,  former  publisher  of  the  Pioneer  and 
Democrat,  aged  twenty-nine  years. 

Also  Jas.  K.  IIurd,.from  injuries  received  from  attack  of 
a  wild  ox. 

INIarried,  Edward  Huggins  to  Elititia  Work,  sister-in-law 
of  Dr.  Tolmie. 

December  4 — Fifth  Legislative  session  met    (8th  inst.). 

1858 

January  29 — Meeting  held  in  Olympia  to  protest  against 
fhe  failure  of  the  Pierce  County  authorities  to  hang  the  In- 
dian murderer  Leschi,  under  sentence  of  death. 

February  19 — Married,  by  Rev.  G.  F.  Whitworth,  Jared 
S.  Hurd  to  Anne  M.  Cock. 

Wm.   L.    ^Mitchell,   Deputy   Sheriff   of    Thurston    County, 


PIONEER   REMINISCENCES  383 

under  order  from  the  Supreme  Court,  proceeded  to  Steilaeoom 
and  on  the  same  day  hung  Lesehi. 

March  19 — Married,  David  L.  Phillips  to  Sophia  Ellen 
Suttlemeirs. 

July  2 — Died,  ]\Irs.  Sarah  Thomson,  aged  eighty-two  years. 
The  mother  of  Rev.  Geo.  F.  Whit  worth. 

July  16— Married,  by  Rev.  G.  F.  Whitworth,  Fayette  Mc- 
^Mullen,  Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  to  Mary  Wood, 
of  Olympia. 

September  10 — ]\Iarried,  Rufus  Willard  to  Sarah  J. 
Fletcher. 

October  15 — Died,  Margaret,  wife  of  William  Rutledge. 
aged  sixty-six  years. 

December  17 — Married,  AVm.  G.  Dunlap  to  Carrie  Cock. 

December  31 — Grand  Lodge  of  Masons  for  Washington 
Territory  organized  at  Olympia. 

1859 

January  7 — Meeting  held  in  Olympia  to  organize  a  Grand 
Division  of  the  Sons  of  Temperance. 

February  11 — INIarried,  James  R.  Wood  to  Mrs.  I\I.  B. 
Pullen. 

Died,  Fanny  Belle,  only  daughter  of  Major  James  and 
Isabella  Tilton. 

April  8 — First  earthquake  experienced  in  Thurston 
County,  occurred  on  the  2nd  inst. 

April   15 — Married,   by   Chief  Justice    McFadden,    William 
Mitchell  to  Martha  Johns  (13th  inst.). 

July  8 — Married,  Henry  Cock  to  ^laria  D.  Hall. 

July  22 — Isaac  Wood  erected  a  brewery  at  Fifth  and  Co- 
lumbia Streets. 

Chas.  H.  Mason,  Secretary  of  the  Territory,  died  at  age 
of  twenty-nine. 

October  21 — Fourth  Street,  from  its  junction  with  ^Main. 
planked.     Stumps  removed  from  ]\Iain  above  Fourth. 

November  25 — Died,  Mollie,  daughter  of  Selucius  and  S. 
E.  Garfielde. 

On  ]\Iound  Prairie,  J.  W.  Goodell. 

December  9— Died,  Mary  F.  Reed,  daughter  of  T.  :\1.  and 
E.  II.  Reed. 


2S4  THURSTON  COUNTY 

Seventh  Legislative  session   eotivened. 
December  23— :\rarried.   A.   B.   Gore  to   :\rrs.   Vestatia  J. 
:\I.  Hyde. 

Dan  W.  Lowell  to  Ellen  Willard. 

1860 

January  13 — Alert  Ilook  and  Ladder  Company  organized. 
The  first  organization  of  the  kind  in  Olympia. 

March  23— Married,  M.  R.  Tilley  to  Miss  R.  A.  Leonard. 

March  30 — Died,  J.  W.  Wiley,  forty  years  of  age.  He  was 
for  several  years  connected  with  the  Pioneer  and  Democrat. 

August  10 — Married,  Nathaniel  Crosby  to  Cordelia  Smith. 

August  17 — Severe  electric  storm  during  which  three  trees 
were  struck  wnthin  city  limits. 

Oregon  apples  were  on  the  market  at  twenty-five  cents 
per  ])0und. 

August  24 — Contract  let  for  clearing  the  capitol  grounds. 
Much  local  criticism  of  the  Territorial  Capital  Commission 
for  not  proceeding  to  build  with  .$30,000  appropriated  by 
Federal  Government. 

September  14 — Census  just  completed  shows  total  poi)u- 
lation  for  Thurston  County  of  15()4;  value  of  property. 
$1,529,700. 

Eighth  Legislative  Assembly  convenes  and  on  December 
11  passes  bill  removing  capital  to  Vancouver,  and  the  peni- 
tentiary from  Vancouver  to  Port  Townsend. 

December  28 — -Mount  Baker  in  state  of  eruption,  "throw- 
ing off  clouds  of  smoke  and  steam." 

1861 

January  4 — Married,  Chas.  Eagan  to  Kate  Wood.  Also 
John  Chapman  to  Sarah  E.  Dofflemeyer. 

January  25 — Died.  ]\Iary  Rutledge,  wife  of  Wm.  Rut- 
ledge,  Sr. 

February  15 — ^larried,  E.  N.  Sargent  to  Lueinda  Mounts. 

March  8 — ^Messrs.  DeLacy,  Blankenship  and  Packwood 
start  on  trip  to  explore  Nisqually  pass,  south  of  ]\It.  Rainier. 

]\Iarch  15 — Having  been  discovered  that  the  bill  remov- 
ing  capital   to   Vancouver   is  defective,    having    no    enacting 


PIONEER   REMINISCENCES  383 

clause,  an  editorial  l)attle  is  commoneed  between  the  Pioneer 
and  Democrat,  and  Vancouver  Chronicle. 

April  10 — ^Married.  Aaron  Wehster  to  ]\Iiss  Yantis. 

April  26— Married,  John  :\I.  :\rurphy  to  Eliza  J.  McGuire. 
of  Portland, 

]\Iay  17 — Acting  Governor  McGill  calls  for  organization 
of  state  militia. 

I\Iay  2-1 — Married,  Isaac  Ellis  to  ;Martha  A.  Connor. 

New  administration  for  Washington  Territory  announced 
as  follows :  Governor,  W.  H.  Wallace ;  Chief  Justice,  C.  C. 
Hewitt;  Receiver  of  the  Land  Office,  Jos.  Cushman;  Register. 
A.  A.  Denny;  Secretary,  L.  J.  Turney;  Attorney,  J.  J.  Mc* 
Gilvra ;  Associate  Justice,  J.  E.  Wych. 

September  14 — ^Married,  Jos.  H.  Kellett  to  Rebecca  D. 
Sargent. 

September  21 — Married,  Peterfield  Turpin  to  Eunice  M. 
Harned. 

October  5 — -Chief  Justice  Hewitt  declares  law  removing 
capital  from  Olympia  to  Vancouver  null  and  void. 

December  7 — Ninth  Legislative  session  convened. 

1862 

^larch  29 — C.  H.  Hale  confirmed  as  Superintendent  of  In- 
dian Affairs. 

.May  3 — Steamer  Eliza  Anderson  takes  up  run  from  Olym- 
pia to  Cariboe  mines. 

June  21 — Died,  at  Olympia.  W.  G.  Dunlap. 

September  20 — A  theatrical  company,  presenting  "Lu- 
cretia  Borgia,"  "Lady  of  Lyojis,"  "David  Copperfield,"  "The 
Brigands,"  etc.,  appeared  for  one  week  in  Olympia. 

^Married,  Henry  C.  Hale  to  Fannie  E.  Knox. 

October  II — Five  hundred  and  twenty-cme  dollars  sub- 
scribed by  citizens  of  Thurston  County  for  relief  of  federal 
soldiers,  and  grand  ball  projected  to  raise  funds  for  like 
purpose. 

October  18 — IMeeting  called  to  take  measures  for  show- 
ing proper  respect  to  memory  of  Isaac  I.  Stevens. 

1863 

January  10 — B.  F.  Kendall,  editoi-  of  the  Overland  Press. 


386  THURSTON  COUNTY 

(lied  on  7th  inst.,  from  effect  of  a  pistol  shot  fired  bv  Horace 
Howe.  Kendall  was  thirty-fonr  years  of  age  and  a  graduate 
of  Bowdoin  College. 

June  20— Died,  at  Walla  Walla,  May  31st,  wife  of  Wm. 
Cock,  aged  forty-nine  years. 

June  27 — Died,  Rev.  Richard  J.  Evans,  aged  twenty-eight 
years.  At  the  time  of  his  death  Mr.  Evans  was  pastor  of  the 
Presbyterian  Church,  from  March  13,  I860,  to  time  of  his  death. 

July  11 — Married,  McLain  Chambers  to  Esther  Packwood. 

July  25 — Died,  at  Victoria,  July  18th.  G.  Warbass,  of 
Olympia. 

August  1 — Mount  Baker  reported  in  state  of  eruption. 

September  26 — Married,  D.  B.  Ward  to  Belle  Byles. 

October  3 — Died,  Levi  Offutt,  aged  forty-five  years. 

November  14 — Married,  T.  J.  Axtell  to  Eliza  M.  Brown. 
Bride  dressed  in  red,  white  and  blue. 

November  28— Born,  to  the  wife  of  Robt.  Frost,  a  daugh- 
ter (24th  inst.).    Also  to  the  wife  of  A.  B.  Young,  a  son. 

December  26 — At  Tumwater  (Dec.  23),  Clanrick  Crosby, 
Jr..  to  Martha  B.  Ward. 

1864 

February  27 — IMarried,  W.  II.  Ruddell  to  Helen  Z.  Himes, 
on  the  21st  inst. 

April  16 — Died  (April  10),  Geo.  N.  Scott,  aged  twenty- 
four  years. 

July  9 — At  Tumwater  (July  3)  Geo.  W.  Biles  to  Louise 
Crosby. 

October  1 — Married.  Geo.  W.  Simmons  to  Virginia  H.  Cal- 
houn ;  also  Christopher  C.  Simmons  to  Amantha  Kennedy. 

December  24 — Married.  Stephen  L.  Ruddell  to  Amanda 
J    Packwood. 

1865 
March  4 — Married,  James  Scott  to  Electra  Rutledge. 
July  1 — Died,  Mary  Frances,  daughter  of  Levi  and  Chris- 
tiana Shelton.  aged  nineteen  years. 

July  29 — Schuyler  Colfax  addressed  the  people  of  Olympia. 
August    19 — News   of   the    loss   of   the   Brother   Jonathan 


PIONEER    REMINISCENCES  387 

reached  01ymi)ia,  Dr.  A.  G.  Henry,  Surveyor-General  of  the 
Territory,   was  lost   on  this  steamer. 

Married,  A.  J.  Burr  of  Olympia  to  ]\Irs.  M.  Woodruff, 
of  Tumwater. 

September  30 — Committee  appointed  to  receive  and  pro- 
vide for  women  arriving  on  Continental  from  New  England. 

1866 

January  6 — ^Married,  John  Shelton  to  Angeline  Ford. 

Also,  Wm.  P.  Wright  to  Maria  L.  Willard. 

February  3 — Died,  at  the  age  of  sixty,  Samuel  James. 

March  17 — New  flouring  mill  erected  by  C.  Crosby,  at 
Tumwater,  is  completed. 

March  31 — Columbia  Engine  Company  No.  1,  is  organized. 

April  7 — Married,  Dudley  Barnes  to  Harriet  L.  Eastman. 

April   14 — Married,   Columbus  White  to   ^lay  Clark. 

May  19 — Died,  at  Tumwater,  Mary  Crosby,  aged  fifty- 
eight  years,  relict  of  late  Capt.  Nathaniel  Crosby,  a  pioneer  of 
the  county. 

July  21 — The  Pixley  family  gave  their  first  performance 
in  Olympia.  Annie  Pixley,  at  this  time  fourteen  years  of  age, 
gained  a  national  reputation  as  an  actress.  Her  mother,  at 
this  time,  opened  a  millinery  shop  on  Washington  Street,  be- 
tween Third  and  Fourth. 

August  4 — Died,  near  Tumwater,  John  Scate,  aged  sev- 
entj'-six  years. 

September  8 — ^Married,  at  Victoria,  Jacob  Waldrick  to 
Lucretia  Eaton,  all  of  Thurston  County. 

November  17 — U.  S.  C.  S.  Brig  Fauntleroy,  Captain  Law- 
son,  and  J.  J.  Gilbert,  arrive  to  survey  coast  of  upper  Sound. 

December  22 — Married,  James  Brewer  to  ]\Iary  E.  Byrd. 

Died,  G.  K.  Willard,  fifty-eight  years  of  age. 

1867 

January  12 — Gov.  Cole  arrived  in  Olympia  and  succeeded 
Gov.  Pickering. 

January  19- — Died.  W.  H.  Waterman.  Superintendent  of 
Indian  Affairs,  aged  fifty-eight  years. 

Also,  Christiana,  wife  of  Levi  Shelton,  fifty-one  years  of 
age. 


.3g8  THURSTON  COUNTY 

Janiiai\y  26 — Married,  at  ]\rontesano,  John  R.  James  to 
]\Iary  C.  Scammons. 

Februarj^  23 — Died,  B.  S.  Cornell,  in  his  sixty-ninth  year. 

March  2— Married.  B.  F.  Rnth  to  :\Irs.  Vail,  "all  of  Thurs- 
ton County. 

May  4 — ^Died,  at  Tumwater,  Ebenger  Eastman,  forty-five 
years  old. 

June  29 — ^Married,  J.  D.'Spirlock  to  Cordelia  Riekard. 

July  27— Married,  Thos.  I\r.  Reed  to  Eliza  C.  Giddings 
(21st  inst.). 

November  23 — ]\Iarried,  Amos  Brown  to  Annie  M.  Peebles. 

November  23 — The  first  circus  to  appear  in  Olympia.  per- 
formed on  the  southwest  corner  of  I\Iain  and  Fourth  Streets. 

Died,  Col.  M.  T.  Simmons  (on  the  15th  inst.).  Col.  Sim- 
mons was  one  of  the  original  settlers  in  Thurston  County. 

1868 

July  18 — Died,  ]\Irs.  Gabriel  Jones.  She  was  seventy  years 
of  age  and  came  West  in  1844. 

October  3 — The  Echo,  a  weekly  paper,  organ  of  the  I.  0. 
G.  T.,  commences  publication. 

October  10— Married,  Park  Winans  of  Walla  Walla,  to 
Lida  I\Ioore,  of  Olympia  (on  the  6th  inst.). 

November  21 — Married,  on  the  15th  inst.,  Thos.  ]\I.  Cham- 
bers to  Annie  E.  S.  Grainger. 

Died,  on  the  14th  inst..  ^Nlary  A.,  wife  of  Wm.  Billings, 
aged  twenty-seven. 

1869 

January  2 — Married,  Frederick  Prosch  to  Helen  ]M.  Elder. 

At  the  same  time  and  place,  H.  M.  Elder  to  IMiss  C.  A. 
Ruddle. 

January  9 — Capt.  D.  B.  Finch  presents  to  Olympia  Lodge 
of  Good  Templars,  the  Olympic  building,  southwest  corner 
Fourth  and  Columbia  Streets,  on  condition  that  the  lodge 
maintain  a  free  reading  room. 

I.  Lightner  and  G.  Rosenthal,  pioneer  merchants,  form  a 
partnership. 

January  16 — Died,  R.  W.  IMoxlie,  a  pioneer,  for  whom 
iNloxlie  Creek  was  named. 


PIONEER    REMINISCENCES  389 

M'ftreh  13 — Died,  on  Moinul  Prairio,  Rev.  Chas.  Biles,  a 
pioneer  of  1853. 

April  3 — Two  velocipedes  appear  upon  the  streets  of 
Olympia.  One  a  two-wheel  affair  and  the  other  a  three-wheel, 
the  latter  of  home  construction. 

April  17 — Died,  Isaac  Wood,  a  pioneer  of  1851.  Mr.  Wood 
was  the  first  brewer  in  Thurston  County,  his  lirewery  ])eing 
located  at  Fourth  and  Columbia  Streets. 

The  Marsh ville   (Westside)   bridge,  is  completed. 

July  10 — Died,  James  A.  Watson.  He  had  been  connected 
with  the  press  of  the  Sound  since  1861. 

George  Francis  Train  lectured  in  Olympia. 

July   17— Tumwater  lu'idge   completed. 

July  24 — Secretary  of  State  William  H.  Seward  addressed 
the  people  of  Olympia. 

August  7 — Married,  (Aug.  3),  Albert  A.  Phillips  to  i\Iiss 
Nellie  Gillispie,  of  Whidby  Island. 

September  18 — ^larried,  David  Longmier  to  Elizabeth 
Pollard. 

November  20 — Town  hall  dedicated  with  dance,  Friday 
evening,  Nov.  26.  (This  hall  was  destroyed  by  fire,  June  4, 
1914). 

November  27— Married.  W.  W.  Miller  to  Mary  M.  Mc- 
Fadden,  in  Lewis  County. 

December  25 — G.  A.  Barnes  commenced  the  erection  of 
the  first  brick  building,  which  still  stands  on  Main  Street, 
between  Third  and  Fourth.  In  this  building  the  first  bank  in 
the  Territory  was  started. 

1870 

February  27 — Marshall  F.  ]Moore,  Governor  of  the  Terri- 
tory, dies  at  Olympia. 

June  25— Married,  J.  15.  Biles  to  Julia  Burkett. 

August  13 — First  installment  of  Gov.  Salomon's  immigra- 
tion arrive.     It  comprised  forty  families  of  over  TOO  persons. 

August  27 — Gen.  Hazard  Stevens  and  P.  B.  Van  Ti-iiiii]) 
return  after  making  first  ascent  made  of  ^Mount  Iiainier.  al- 
though Captain  F.  W.  Ferrell  claimed  to  have  ascended  it  in 
October  1847,  in  company  witii  John  Edgar,  and  a  Fi-eiicli- 
man  and  Indian,  names  unknown. 


390  THURSTON  COUNTY 

September  17 — Census  completed.  Olynipia  1208;  Thurs- 
ton County  2246. 

October  15 — Olympia  infested  with  band  of  incendiaries, 
and  a  vigilance  committee  is  organized. 

October  22 — INIarried,  C.  M.  Bradshaw  to  Florence  Holmes. 

December  4 — Died,  Mrs.  C.  H.  Hale,  aged  52  years. 

1871 

January  21 — An  association  of  Pioneers  formed.  All  citi- 
zens eligible  whose  residence  date  back  to  1860. 

I\Iay  20— Died,  Mrs.  L.  D.  Dnrgin. 

Also,  Eliza  C,  wife  of  T.  M.  Reed. 

November  18 — Woman's  Suffrage  Association  for  Thurs- 
ton County  formed. 

December  30 — Puget  Sound  Courier  commenced  publica- 
tion as  political  organ  of  the  Federal  office  holders. 

Olympia  receives  formal  notice  of  acceptance  by  Northern 
Pacific  Railroad  of  land  subsidy  and  location  of  termini  at 
0\5ympia. 

1872 

January  20 — Died,  John  Law,  aged  seventy-four  (Nov. 
12,  1871),  an  emigrant  of  1852. 

January  27 — First  Unitarian  Sunday  school  organized. 

February  3 — ]\Iarried,  J.  W.  Brazee  to  Minnie  Biles. 

March  2 — Died,  Jos.  Cushman,  an  early  pioneer. 

May  18— Married  (May  12th)  J.  J.  Gilbert  to  Fannie  A. 
Yantis. 

June  22— I\Iarried,  L.  P.  Venen  to  Emma  Clark. 

Died,  on  Bush  Prairie,  Tallitha  Kindred. 

August  17— Married,  C.  H.  Hale  to  Mrs.  P.  C.  Case. 

Charles  Vivian,  father  of  the  Order  of  Elks,  made  his 
first  appearance  in  Olympia. 

September  21 — Piers  laid  for  building  now  Recorder  office. 

October  26 — Public  reception  tendered  Judge  ]\IcFadden 
on  his  return  home  during  his  campaign  for  Congress. 

November  2 — Married,  W.  E.  Boone  to  Mercie  Slocum 
(Oct.  30). 

November  9 — Married  (Nov.  6)  Wm.  Billings  to  Jeanette 
M.  Ballentine. 


PIONEER    REMINISCENCES 


391 


Died,  H.  R.  Woodartl,  a  pioneer  of  1852. 
•Judge  ^MeFadden's  election  to  Congress  is  celebrated  l).v 
his  townsmen  in  Olympia. 

Olvmpia   experienced   the   hardest    eartlupiake     that     has 
ever  occurred  here. 

November  30 — ^larried,  J.  ]\1.  Lammon  to  ^lary  Hallett. 
December  21 — Married,   Nathan  Eaton  to  Lestina  Ilimes. 


THURSTON    COUNTY 


EARLY  FRATERNAL  ORGANIZATIONS. 


The  first  lodge  of  Free  and  Accepted  Masons  to  be  in- 
stituted north  of  the  Columbia  River  was  organized  in  Olympia, 
December  11,  1852.  The  names  of  the  petitioners  were :  Thorn- 
ton F.  McElroy,  James  W.  Wiley,  ]\Iiehael  T.  Simmons,  Nicholis 
Delin,  Smith  Hays,  Ira  Ward  and  A.  K.  Skidraore,  under  dis- 
pensation granted  by  M.  N.  Berryman  Jennings,  Grand  ]\Iaster 
of  the  Grand  Lodge  of  the  Territory  of  Oregon  and  wa.s 
known  as  No.  5.  under  the  Oregon  jurisdiction.  This  lodge 
exists  today  under  title  of  Olympia  Lodge  No.  1,  under  juris- 
diction of  the  Grand  Lodge  of  Washington. 

The  first  meeting  of  this  organization  was  held  Saturday 
evening,  Dec.  11,  1852.  The  lodge  was  opened  with  T.  F.  ]\Ic- 
Elroy  as  Worshipful  Master;  J.  W.  Wiley,  Senior  Warden  and 
M.  T.  Simmons,  Junior  Warden. 

The  second  meeting  of  the  Lodge  was  held  December  18. 
1852.  At  this  meeting  a  petition  for  the  degrees  was  received 
for  the  degrees  from  B.  F.  Yantis,  one  of  the  earliest  and  most 
respected  pioneers  of  the  Territory.  At  a  subsequnt  meeting, 
B.  F.  Yantis  was  the  first  to  receive  the  three  degrees  in  this 
lodge.  B.  P.  Shaw,  of  Vancouver,  having  received  the  pre- 
ceding degrees,  received  the  Master  ^Mason's  degree  the  same 
evening  as  IMr.  Yantis. 

Olympia  Lodge  Avas  chartered  by  the  Grand  Lodge  of 
Oregon,  June  15,  1853  and  was  numbered  5.  Upon  the  organ- 
ization of  the  Grand  Lodge  of  Washington,  December  8,  1858. 
Olympia  Lodge  became  No.  1  under  the  new  jurisdiction. 

Another  pioneer  fraternal  society  is  Olympia  Lodge  No.  1, 
I.  0.  0.  F. 

This  lodge  was  organized  under  a  charter  dated  April  ]0. 
1855,  by  the  Supreme  Lodge  I.  0.  0.  F.  of  the  United  States 
The  following  Avere  named  on  the  charter  list :  C.  C.  Llewitt. 
J.  L.  Head,  James  C.  Head,  Daniel  Kiser,  Cyril  Ward. 


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DEDICATION 


It  would,  perhaps,  have  been  more  appropriate  to  have 
dedicated  this  little  volume  to  the  brave  and  sturdy  Thurstoi. 
County  Pioneers,  whose  life  stories  I  have  striven  to  set  forth 
in  their  own  language  wherever  possible,  and  such,  indeed,  wasi 
my  intention  at  the  beginning  of  this  work,  but  as  time  went 
on  and  I  grew  to  realize  the  trials,  hardships  and  privation!-, 
which  were  the  lot  of  the  women  who  crossed  the  Old  Oregon 
Trail  in  the  middle  of  the  last  century,  I  became  more  and 
more  impressed  with  the  magnificent  courage  displayed  h\ 
one  w^ho  has  ever  been  the  guiding  star  of  my  life.  Surel^ 
making  this  arduous  trip  not  once,  but  three  times,  entitles 
her  to  an  honorable  place  among  the  pioneers  of  whatevei 
section. 

She  started  from  a  home  of  comparative  wealth  and  east 
in  ^Minnesota  w^hile  still  in  the  freshness  of  her  youth  with  hei 
husband  and  two  small  children,  of  whom  the  writer  w^as  the 
youngest,  arriving  in  Sacramento,  California,  after  six  months 
hard  travelling,  during  which  time  the  family  never  slept  un 
der  a  roof  other  than  the  canvas  wagon  cover,  and  endured 
all  hardships  wdth  an  unparalled  cheerfulness  and  fortitude 
ever  striving  to  assist  and  encourage  her  husband  and  to  trait 
her  children  in  the  right  w^ay.  ^Many  an  evening  the  Avritei 
can  recall  being  tucked  into  her  little  bed  in  the  wagon  box 
by  those  kind  hands  and  sinking  off  to  sleep,  lulled  by  the 
monotonous  sound  of  the  horses  crunching  their  grain  from  flu 
long  feed  box  on  the  ground  beside  the  prairie  schooner. 

The  stay  in  California  was  short,  barely  long  enough  foj 
the  family  to  recover  from  the  fatigue  of  the  long  journey 
and  for  this  modern  Cornelia  to  add  one  other  gem  to  hei 
jewel  casket,  then,  becoming  satisfied  that  all  the  shining  gold 
of  which  this  young  couple  had  dreamed,  had  already  l)eer 
picked  up  out  of  the  streets  by  earlier  pioneers,  they  decided 
to  retrace  their  journey  as  far  as  the  Grande  Rounde  Valley, 
in  Oregon.  Here,  although  the  loose  gold  had  also  been  al- 
ready gathered  in,  tliere  were  plenty  of  oppoi'tunilies  for  gain- 


ing  a  competence  for  the  thrifty  and  industrious,  virtues 
which  these  people  certainly  possessed. 

Within  a  few  years  prosperity  had  shed  its  golden  glow 
over  the  adventurers  to  such  a  degree  that  they  decided  they 
had  acquired  enough  to  give  them  a  cmnfortable  start  in  their 
old  home  as  they  were  homesick  and  possessed  of  an  over- 
whelming longing  to  see  once  again  the  friends  of  their  youth 

Bundling  the  children  into  the  wagons  in  wdiich  the  first 
start  was  made,  the  long  trip  back  to  JMinnesota  was  under- 
taken. Here  the  money  acquired  in  the  West  was  invested  in 
a  farm  which  proved  to  be  an  unfortunate  venture,  for  the 
ground  was  worn  out  and  exhausted  and  the  knowledge  the 
young  people  had  of  all  agriculturaal  pursuits  was  purely 
theoretical.  The  final  result  was  that  the  money  was  soon  alJ 
spent  and  then  the  rememl)erance  of  the  many  opportunities 
they  had  left  in  the  Golden  West  lured  them  to  return. 

Again  the  family  and  plunder  w^ere  loaded  in  the  wagons 
and  the  return  trip  along  the  now  familiar  trail  was  started. 
There  were  four  children  by  this  time,  and  on  the  way,  some- 
where back  in  Iowa,  another  baby  was  born  to  this  heroic 
woman.  A  lay-by  of  only  a  couple  of  days  was  all  she  asked 
before  the  onward  march  was  resumed. 

At  one  time,  while  passing  through  Utah  on  the  first  trip 
west,  their  train  was  fired  upon  by  the  Indians  while  the  emi- 
grants were  preparing  their  evening  meal,  the  miscreants  then 
charging  down  and,  with  horrid  yells  and  flourishing  of 
blankets  and  robes,  endeavored  to  stampede  the  horses  picketed 
a  short  distance  from  the  wagons.  The  bravery  of  the  men 
in  rushing  to  the  rescue  was  all  that  prevented  this  catastrophe. 
In  the  morning  the  way  led  on  through  a  deep  ravine  with 
rocky  walls  crow^ding  close  by  the  trail  on  either  side.  The 
frightened  emigrants  were  sure  they  would  be  fired  upon  by 
the  enemy  from  the  tops  of  these  walls  but  there  was  no  other 
alternative  than  to  proceed.  The  women  drove  the  teams 
while  the  men  with  their  guns  over  their  shoulders,  walked, 
beside  the  wagons,  guarding  their  families,  their  lives  and 
their  every  earthly  possession.  But  they  were  not  further 
molested. 

In  remembrance  of  this  grand,  courageous  and  loya] 
woman,  I  lovingly  dedicate  this  liook  to        MY  MOTHER. 


16   75       11 


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